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>> Home > Tags > fitting led

fitting led
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fitting led
The Vosper 46” RAF Crash Tender Kit By Vintage Model Works by Lyle Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 3 days ago
Dear Modellers and builders of the Vintage Model Works kit series. You will find my earlier pictures and various writings on the original earlier postings by me in OZ of my still some 30/plus years Crash Boat in which I wore out several I/C motors and my girl still runs in Salt Water at the local LAKE ILLAWARRA in New South Wales and you are somewhat fortunate with ready made fittings. I did not ever know of the "page" ( wish I had a copy ) on your wall of the rear well of fire hose details and fittings , wow what a bonus, as a colonial had several years till Peter Dimberline and I had contact and he helped me to authenticate my vessel. The ESSENTIAL secret of the Crash Boat is the spray rails. So many look toy in the videos and TOOOOOOO fast . The spray rails are doubled at width protruding from the hull and lesser at the point of "rise of the wood " towards the upper bow point. The depth is not too critical at a bit of about an eighth of an inch thickness or a bit thinner for the whole length as you do not want to see a "thick log ", rather again it is the width rather than depth. I know I have written on this before on this webb site in the past. The turns thus on the go become when starting on and STAY more on the go are more flatter rather like a full sized hull which has a planing/ flatter hull turn to the flatness of the water than a typical poorly behaving model boat hull which invariably heels TOOOO much and somewhat digging in , (in turns). The HARD CHINE hull design was meant to not only rise to a comfortable plane attitude but ALSO to turn without that annoying behaviour of "digging in" when it should still perform and exhibit that hard chine design attitude when in a turn . "Digging in" equals water resistance AGAINST the hull and loss of performance and loss of plane attitude and against wave resistance when the hull designers team is trying to maintain hard chine performance in the forward turning direction. I harp on this point that this hull design is one to respect . The older I get the more I expect of all my model machines that I am lucky to see on computers, as we certainly have more need to respect the masters, the likes of Peter Du Cane and T E Lawrence and Hubert Scott Payne of Vospers and Thornycroft and The British Power Boat Company and ELCO and Higgins, all of whom I have researched so much over my life and I have been to the memorial of Lawrence in the desert in Wadi Rum. I try to do it right. Regards to all builders Lyle. My mates and I have to run in 2 to 3 inch chop at times, such is the Lake Channel ! My wife has reminded me that some of my fleet do seem to have BLACK hulls and I only would build one model boat, when I bought the Aerobats Crash Boat home, the pictures are of some of my scratch built fleet.

TRIUMPH (CG-52301) USCG Type F MLB by circle43nautical Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 11 days ago
Laser cut kit from Barracuda RC Boats, N Carolina, USA. Baltic birch plywood false keel, ribs/frames, hull sheathing, deck and cabins. No formal plans; I was able to source a handful of B&W archival photos from the USCG website. Fortunately I was able to procure a motherload of archival photos and a few hard to read layout drawings from Mr. Timothy Dring, LCDR, USN (Ret.). He is co-author of "American Coastal Rescue Craft", which is the "bible" if you will, of such. I do sometimes thank the internet. I am certain that without his assistance, my efforts on this wouldn't have been as enjoyable. The kit was also void of fittings, which I was aware of prior to purchase, so I invested in a 3D printer. That I've used to a limited degree, due to searching for parts in the correct file format is mind-numbing! I have globally sourced fittings; USA, UK, ASIA. As a matter of fact, the searchlights I got from this Model Boat Shop were 3D printed, and I was able to fit 5mm LEDs into them. I'd like to get a couple more and put some superbright 12v LED drone lamps in them for use on my 35" towboat. Many deck fittings are handmade when possible, the cleats and fairleads are from Cornwall Boats, UK. (Very reasonable & diverse source, if you didn't already know.) I try to keep wood natural when detail allows it, as I never have enjoyed painting over natural grain. Her decks are covered with 1/16" scribed basswood sheathing from earthandtree.com, which is normally used for wainscoting dollhouse walls. All my boats that have wood decks are covered with scribed sheathing; I feel it makes 'em look "sexy". Believe it or not, the idea for wainscoting came from finding 3/16" at Hobby Lobby's dollhouse department. A couple of feet x 3.5" was about $16, so I found a less expensive source that also had more selections (earthandtree.com) The rail stanchions are 3/16" square dowels with 2 corners rounded over on the Dremel router table. Leaving their base square, I fit a square peg into a round hole with no glue to facilitate removal, and also for ease of replacing broken ones, which is inevitable. The rail is 1/16" brass rod that also is readily removable. The stern rail is stationary on the lower half, and the chain & wire stanchions are removable for towing ops. The deck coamings and knuckle are African mahogany strips, other mahogany accents came from leftovers of a prior build. I also try on all my boats, to incorporate vintage leftover scribed sheathing salvaged from my late Father's builds, so I know he's got a part in my builds. Note-the raised deck section between the aft ladder trunk and towing bit is actually a laminated deckhouse he made for the Frigate Essex. Unfortunately, he was unable to build that kit due to Alzheimer's disease in his latter years. (I blame that mostly on the hazardous fumes from the airplane "dope" & glue he used when building RC planes in the 60s & 70s.) I use polyurethane instead of resin due to COPD, 37 yrs of smoking, I quit 2.5 yrs ago. The driveline consists of: 775 Johnson DC main (3500 RPM@12V), Harbor Models 4mm x 14" shaft w/brass stuffing box, Raboesch 75mm 5-blade brass wheel (not OEM), 5mm U-joint couplers, Dimart 320A fan-cooled ESC. Handmade wooden teardrop rudder on a 3/8" sternpost, 1/4" tiller arm steered by a Halcion sail winch servo and cable system. Flysky 6 channel. The nav lights and other illumination are Lighthouse 9v LEDs, also a GoolRC Receiver controlled flashing blue Law Enforcement light. Obviously, I put the cart before the horse and completed the topsides and below deck before finishing the outer hull, but the Wx and season change dictated such. Can't wait for Spring!

CG-40564 by circle43nautical Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
[Score: 9/10] 35"/4500g CG-40564 Capable of 15mph and a runtime of 45mins Twin Propellors (4 Blade 50mm) Direct Drive to a 775 JOHNSON-TYPE 6-12V (4 Blade) Powered by NiMH (8.4v) 3Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through HOBBYWING (15Amps) ESC - Comments: DUMAS 1:14 USCG 40' UTB. REPRESENTING US COAST GUARD UTILITY BOAT CG-40564, WHICH CAPSIZED DURING A RESCUE ATTEMPT ON THE COLUMBIA RIVER BAR ON 17 JAN 1961. HER CREW WAS FORTUNATELY RESCUED. SHE WAS ASSISTING CG-52301, A 52' TYPE F WOODEN MLB, WHICH FOUNDERED WITH THE LOSS OF ALL HANDS. IT REMAINS THE WORST SMALL BOAT RESCUE DISASTER IN COAST GUARD HISTORY. THIS IS AN UNUSUAL SCALE BALSA PLANK-ON, COVERED BY 2 OZ FIBERGLASS. I USED MINWAX POLYURETHANE FOR AN ALTERNATE TO RESIN, WHICH TURNED OUT WELL, AND CAN BE DONE WITH MINIMAL VENTILATION. WITH BIRCH PLY DECK & CABINS, 1/8" SCRIBED SHEATHING COVERS THE DECK BOW TO STERN AND MAHOGANY TRIM LEFTOVER FROM ANOTHER DUMAS KIT IN MY SCALE SHIPYARD. STOCK D/C FITTINGS WITH SOME SUPPLEMENTAL PREMADE AND HANDMADE ITEMS. SHE FEATURES TWIN RABOESCH 4-BLADE WIDE FLUKE WHEELS AND MATCHING RUDDERS; WORKING HATCHES WITH STOWAGE AREA FOR ANCHOR & TOWLINE, LIGHTHOUSE 9V LED NAV LIGHTS AND FLASHING LED LAW ENFORCEMENT BLUE LIGHT (RC CONTROLLED). I'M ADDING A MOUNT FOR A SCALE BROWNING M2 50 CAL THAT I WAS ABLE TO PRODUCE ON MY 3D PRINTER. THAT'S AN ADVENTURE IN ITSELF. THIS WAS MY FIRST REAL PLANK ON BULKHEAD, AND BALSAWOOD CAN BE A LIL TRICKY, BUT WILL ALWAYS BE THE STANDARD OF WHICH I COMPARE ALL MY SUBSEQUENT BUILDS. MY FATHER BUILT RC AIRCRAFT, AND ALWAYS PREACHED THAT YOU SHOULD OVERBUILD IN ORDER TO SURVIVE A CRACK-UP AND FLY ANOTHER DAY! THAT'S MY CREED WITH BOATS. OVERBUILD!!! THANK YOU DAD! BTW-FYI-MR. ARNOLD PALMER WAS A US COAST GUARDSMAN (YM3) 1950-53

USCG CG-44345 by circle43nautical Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
[Score: 8/10] 28"/1400g USCG CG-44345 Capable of 14mph and a runtime of 45mins Twin Propellors (3 Blade 40mm) Direct Drive to a MAB 540 (3 Blade) Powered by NiMH (8.4v) 3Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through HOBBYWING (10Amps) ESC - Comments: VINTAGE BILLING BOATS (MY FIRST RC ENDEAVOR 1989) 1:20 US COAST GUARD 44' MOTOR LIFEBOAT. ABS HULL & DECK WITH PLYWOOD CABINS. ALL STOCK RUNNING HARDWARE AND FITTINGS. I'M CURRENTLY OVERHAULING HER, HULL IS DECORATED AND MARKED WITH NEW DECALS. THE ORIG KIT WAS CG-44329, WHICH SAILED OUT OF US COAST GUARD LIFEBOAT STATION MANASQUAN INLET, NJ. I CHANGED THE HULL NUMBER AND RELOCATED HER TO USCG LIFEBOAT STATION LUDINGTON, MI., WHICH WAS MY DREAM STATION WHEN I WAS A PROUD US COAST GUARDSMAN, '80-86. THERE WERE 110 OF THESE MLB'S BUILT BY THE COAST GUARD YARD IN CURTIS BAY, MD, AND THE DESIGN WAS SO SUCCESSFUL, IT WAS DUPLICATED BY THE RNLI AND STILL IN SERVICE TODAY. THERE ARE EVEN A COUPLE FOR SALE THE LAST TIME I CHECKED. OTHER THAN THE 40' UTB, THE 44 IS MY FAVORITE COASTAL RESCUE CRAFT. YES-MR. ARNOLD PALMER WAS A US COAST GUARDSMAN (YM3) 1950-53

Motor problem by pmdevlin Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi Richard, that lead acid is way too big and heavy. I Remember going on hols as a kid, car was loaded up, all family, roofrack, deck chairs, tent and so on, and Dads old Moggie Traveller would barely climb the Welsh hills! Same here, its just dead weight, ideal for a tug etc, no speed required, and ballast needed. This boat wasn't any slouch in its day, As Havelock says, it was originally built as a ic powered model so could stand being heavy. To achieve balance, its a matter of moving things around, not adding, so just move things forward, you will be surprised how the weight increases once you start adding Deck clutter, fittings and so on. Lightweight, is good. Your comment, stood up in the water at half throttle isn't going fast, its just bad weight displacement causing the bow tyo be too high. That setup would never have been that fast, the motor/battery combo will never cause a heavy ply boat to be going that fast its standing on end Couple of things to consider. Your nimhs, how many times have these been cycled, and what sort of charger are you using? A reasonable charger will give the information, if I know what you are using, Ill advise accordingly as you might not be getting the best from these batteries what prop are you on Think of an rc plane (if you fly them its easier) If the cog is too far back, the nose is pitching up, and its almost impossible to control, it almost porpoises in the air, and is very bad. COG is vital on a rc plane, nose heavy is better, only because its more controllable. COG is equally important with a boat, but harder to see the implications, the hull will give us false info, such as if the bow is up its on the plane, no, not necessarily, its not planing due to speed, its just out of balance. Shifting the weight radically will let you see this, sorry for the ramble, Wish you where closer to me I would love to help hands on👍 Ive tried to find a suitable video of my Huntman to display what I'm rambling on about. This video is poor quality, but it displays that boat moving very fast (25mph with on board data logger) but look how flat it is, its planning, as the forward 1/3 of the hull is out of the water, but its not standing on its tail, this is because its balanced. You boat is pretty similar in design to this so whilst you wont want to go this fast, the picture should look the same. This Huntsman weighs 6kg with batteries (lipos, you will NEVER get a nimh or lead acid to do this) and is 4 foot long, so quite a heavy old girl first constructed as an IC model in the early 70's. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e5-YmmElIfk&t=34s and here is a picture of my 3 foot aerokits fireboat, bow up, is it planing, no, its way out of balance, it wasnt actaully going that fast Hope that helps Paul

Motor problem by RichardSReade Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 2 months ago
Thank you gents, I will get a bigger motor and reduce the prop size as I do not want it any faster than it is, also a smaller prop as everyone has said will reduce the power drained from the battery, I have a water scoop and tubing so will be fitting that today and will fit a water jacket around the motor, also I am thinking weighing the lead weight fitted in the compartment behind the motor and replace some or all of it and fit a 12 volt 7 amph sealed lead acid battery, presumably this will last longer than the present batteries fitted, or will it?

Aero Kit - Sea Queen by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
Hi Andy Welcome to the site. There are many posts re building and fitting out Sea Queens on the site. You can search and browse. The boats in Harbour section will alsos give yousi details of the motor/prop/battery set up. I have an original Aerokits version and in my 48" Sea Queen I use a brushless 42 size 850Kv water cooled motor of 700 watts and it is happy driving a Prop Shop prop of 42mm at 45 amp on full throttle. Power is from an 11.1v Lipo of at least 2200 mA but Nimhs would work, just not as fast and less duration.

Removing The Deck by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
Hi Neil, I heartily second all of what Dave has written ESPECIALLY NOT CHARGING IN THE HULL! 😡 I also considered fitting the battery across the hull but came to the conclusions that it was too high and impossible to remove for charging, so I settled for between the shafts as Jarvo did. I have also dumped the smoke idea, my older version Southampton does not have this. Instead I will concentrate more on sound, lighting and possibly a working winch. As Dave says slow down! Get the basics working and the ship sailing first. THEN you will know how much freeboard, and space(!) you have left for the special effects. Cheers Doug 😎

Fittings and finishing by Novagsi0 Commander   Posted: 3 months ago
Have been making steady progress on the Huntsman. Few additional fitting I acquired and me mom has been busy knitting boat fenders front and for the sides. Amazing she can almost knit one as faster than I can chamfer a cork in the lathe to fill it with. (pictures attached). I'm not sure the masking tape she attached them will cope with the speed and the wet. I guess I need to secure then with some brass cleats or posts. My next Job. Also attached the windscreen not as much trouble as I thought. Radio is in and the Torpedo 850 motor installed.

Hobby Engine 'Richardson' Tug Upgrade by NPJ Captain   Posted: 3 months ago
This is the beginning of a ‘diary’ of events. It involves a small Tug, the Hobby Engine Richardson and my attempts to improve its performance. This is my first attempt at such a project and would not have been possible without the assistance of certain members of this site. For those not familiar with this model here are the basic details......... Pic1&2 At 1/32 scale ( 1 metre = 31.25mm; 1 inch = 2 feet 8 inches), it has a Length of 54cm (21.25 inches) beam 17cm (6.75inches) height to radio aerial top 37cm (14.5inches) and weight at 1924grams (4.5 lbs) with standard battery and fittings. It comes with 2.4 digital radio, 7.2v 800mAh rechargeable battery and charger. Features include:- Twin 280 motors, functioning internal lights, external lights, smoke and horn. So some (such as Rallyst) have quite rightly said “Why change it”? My answer is that I can never ‘leave well alone’ , that I found the transmitter controls rather ‘rough’, the battery life too short, the horn sound very weak and the smoke almost non existent. Plus the fact that it has been reported elsewhere that the steering when going astern was very hit and miss. So I started to take it apart! Pic3 It is easy to remove the Wheelhouse by sliding the dark grey locker at the front of the wheelhouse/bridge and the stairway. Once the unit is released, the white electrics connector underneath can be difficult and needs very gentle prising with a small screw driver. The other two plugs come easily. This is where members ‘Jarvo’ and ‘RNinMunich’ came to my aid............. However, some of the screws are obvious but others have been well hidden. They are to be found under some of the fittings on the deck. Pic4,5,6,7. The next move will be to remove the deck, but that is for next week. What am I hoping to achieve.....well from zero knowledge I would like to have engine sound connected to the throttle control, good horn sound, better control of steering when going astern and a six channel receiver with new transmitter that feels good to use!

SCRATCH FISHING BOAT by basilsdad Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 4 months ago
I have for sale my model fishing boat which was scratch built from a model boat magazine plan, forgot who designed it though. it is built from balsa for the hull sides covered in a pair of the bosses tights before sealing and painting.The stern and deck are ply then painted to seal. all the deck and cabin fittings are scratch built from photos found on line. it is quite heavy about 10Lb of lead if I remember correctly, the length is 30" by 16" to keel bottom and beam 9", fitted with a 12v to 14V motor, 70 mm prop. Batteries and 320 amp fan cooled speed controller included, currently running off 12v 6 amp batteries. space needed for new project £150 or reasonable offers collection from Lincoln would be advisable due to size and weight. But could arrange delivery if required.

Display stand and transport case. by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 months ago
Simply magnificent, museum+ quality, and too good to hide in a museum 👍👍👍 I too have learned much about fixtures and fittings from following your immaculate blog Would love to know where the wheeled flight case came from, could help me with my 4 and 5 foot ships!! Cheers Doug 😎

Secure the hatches and raise the flags ! by robbob Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 6 months ago
Having spent so much time adding fittings and detail to the removable cabin roofs and hatches the last thing I want is for them to be dislodged and see them sink without trace 😱! Having used some amazingly strong neodymium magnets to hold the foam tanks securely in the rear well I was confident that they would be more than powerful enough to hold the various roofs and hatches in place so I scoured eBay for some suitable sizes and shapes. I settled on two sizes, 25x6x3mm and 12x6x3mm and ordered 10 of each, more than I need but so useful to have in the bits box. A word of caution with these magnets, always slide them apart and avoid letting them crash together as the impact can easily break them into pieces, as I discovered. Thankfully I have some spares ! For the engine roof magnets I made a couple of small plywood brackets into which the larger magnets are fixed with epoxy and these were in turn epoxied onto the inside faces of the engine room walls. The mating magnets were let into the underside of the roof frame and firmly glued in place after double checking the mating polarity and orientation. An identical method was used for the forward cabin roof but using the smaller magnets. For the removable panel in the centre section over the motor I used a single pair of small magnets on the rear edge only as the front of this panel is held under the cabin door in a rebated part of the floor that forms the threshold of the door. I had to fit a small brass handle in the rear of this panel so that I could pull the panel up and away as there is no other means of doing so without, I made a ‘hook tool’ from some brass wire for this purpose. The floor panel in the rear cockpit is secured on it’s rear edge by a pair of the larger magnets, the forward edge being held down by the towing hook bracing stays. The removable hatch in the rear cockpit floor was also fitted with two pairs of the smaller magnets let into the underside of the hatch and the hatch framing of the floor. One of the brass handles that I that had previously set into the hatch was bent up slightly so that I could use my brass ‘hook tool’ to release it from the magnets hold. So now all the roofs and hatches are firmly secured by the concealed magnets and are easily removable without any fiddly catches or fixings and now there’s now very little chance of them coming adrift and disappearing! The final finishing detail are the two RAF ensigns, one on the mast and one on the stern flagstaff. The ensigns were made by Mike Allsop Scale Flags & Ensigns who was very helpful and advised me on the most suitable sizes for the 1:12 scale of my boat. His flags are extremely well made, excellent value for money and look very realistic when flying and fluttering !! Mike can be contacted at: scaleflags@outlook.com or by telephone on 01476 573331 They are hand made from a fine and flexible silk cloth that behaves like a real flag even in a slight breeze and are easy to fix with diluted PVA glue. The smaller flag was fitted to the lanyard on the mast as described in the supplied instruction sheet. The ensign on the stern flagstaff was very carefully formed and glued so that the flag was not fixed in one place and could rotate around the shaft of the flagstaff as this piece screws into a brass fitting on the rear deck and this will ensure that it will always find it’s own position. A small brass ring was formed and glued to the flagstaff below the ensign so it would always stay at the top and not slip down. So, all hatches battened down, flags raised and ready for action. That’s just about everything finished now barring any trimming and ballasting required and is ready for it’s maiden voyage. I hope that all of you that have been following my blog have had as much enjoyment reading about my build as I have had in the building and finishing process 😁 And a big thank you to all that have contributed so much with encouraging comments, suggestions and advice 👏 😍

Building a deck by Jerry Todd Commander   Posted: 7 months ago
I began laying the deck on April 5th. It had snowed as recently as the week before, but it finally warmed up enough to use glue. The strips were cut to 6-5/8" length, about 20' in 1:36 scale. I used a black marker on two opposite sides to represent the pitch in the seams. The deck was laid in a 5-plank pattern to mix up the butt-joints as much as I could. My research on her decking found she's had various styles and plank widths over her life. The earliest photo showing her deck that I could find, showed it straight planked with 7 or 8" wide boards based on the number of planks between her waterway and the main hatch coaming. Her waterway logs seem to be placed ON the decking, as there's no margin planks or joggling - even today. The planking was set with gel CA. Gorilla sells it in a nice bottle with a metal pin in the cap to keep the spout open. It would up taking 3 of these bottles to complete the deck. The planks are cut at a 45 on the ends along the fore and aft access hatches, to try and hide this seam as much as possible. Once the deck was down, I scraped it. The glue is more resistant than the basswood is, so sanding would have scalloped the wood between seams. Scraping makes everything level. Some lite sanding, more to polish than remove anything, was done last. I had planned to stain the deck a very light grayish tint, but an active naval vessel gets holy-stoned regularly and wouldn't be gray as the ships that sit at a dock today are. In all it took 455 pieces to complete the deck and there wasn't any scrap longer than 1 inch left over. In all I have 3/4" deck beams, 1/4" plywood, a layer of 4oz cloth and resin, and a 3/16" basswood deck - I don't recall why I designed it so heavy, but it certainly doesn't hurt the model at all, and I think the 3/16" square strip will prove to have been easier to set than the 1/16" x 1/4" planks Pride and Macedonian will get. The deck go a coat of water-based satin poly, and I stared working on hatch coamings, cap log, and waterways. The cabin skylight and two hatched forward of it, including the capstan, and all combined into one hatch where the battery is accessed, and which hides the aft ballast rod and main power switch. The cap logs Are 1/2" wide x 1/4" tall basswood that was tren'led, glued, and copper nailed, onto the deck, flush with the outside of the hull covering this seam completely. The the angled wood waterways were installed around the inside of the cap log, and the deck got a coat of oil-based satin poly. This actually leeched in and made the marker seams bleed a little. In hind sight, I think I'll go with paint over marker for seams in the future. The coamings got painted black. I'm not sure why the Navy painted deck fittings black. It was even common to paint to top surfaces of tops black. I wonder how many injuries and losses this cost the navy that white paint would have prevented. Anyway... Constellation didn't have "solid" bulwarks, but rather she had hammock irons bolted to her cap log. These were removed when Baltimore tried to pass her off as a frigate and tossed in the bilge. When the ship was restored as a sloop of war, they found all but one. These irons are designed to have wooden rails at their tops, inboard and out, and have holes so several lines can be run through them. The Navy in it's wisdom though, decided to wainscot them to appear as solid bulwarks, despite the additional splinter hazard that would be in battle. I wasn't making all those metal stanchions just to hide them under wood and tarps, so I made wood blocks sheathed in sheet bass, scribed to look like vertical wainscotting. It was the end of April by now, and the Baltimore Port Expo was in two weeks. I wanted to have hammocks in the bulwarks, as she appears in the portrait, but there was no time to figure this out, so I layered on some balsa and shaped it so it looked like tarps were laid over the hammocks. When I figure out how I'll represent the stowed hammocks, I can pull the balsa off easily enough. The bulwarks on, I made some fittings for the spencer masts; installed the eye bolts at the base of the masts; made some bollards (or whatever name they gave those posts), made and installed the catheads, which are laminated 1/16" basswood. I then started setting up a jury rig and her controls so she could sail at the Port Expo. I set her t'gallants and all three heads'ls this time around. By the night before the Expo, she was ready to go.

The suction hoses – part 3. by robbob Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 7 months ago
The remaining hose fittings are the male & female connectors and fortunately require nothing more than drilling to take the four short brass ‘turning handles’ which were soft soldered in place and then filed to length. The suction hoses themselves proved far more difficult to make to a satisfactory standard and after several experiments with different gauges of copper, steel and stainless steel wire I found a 1.25mm galvanised ‘garden wire’ that proved malleable enough to be formed into a long coil spring that when covered with some black heat shrink tube looked OK. I used a length of 8mm diameter aluminium tube as a former and hand wound the galvanised wire tightly around the tube to form a spring. This was a painful process, quite literally, and caused blisters on my thumb and forefingers despite wearing protective gloves 😭 The springs were then stretched out on the rod to space the coils evenly and then drawn through the heat shrink tube, and then a heat gun used to shrink down the tube onto the springs. While the newly formed hoses were still warm and pliable I put them on a former with the correct curvature and applied a little more heat and then left them to cool and set. The hoses were made over length so that, when finished, I could trim them to the correct lengths to fit into the rear well of the boat with the fittings attached. See part 4 for the final assembly...coming soon.