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>> Home > Tags > fittings

deck fittings
fitting led
fitting the side skins
Battery problems by Patto Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 5 days ago
thanks Dave i got a seaking 120a watercoold brushless ESC by Hobbywing which handles the power well. Same motor as before got a 38m 2 blade prop looking for a 3 blade. i was originally useing the 12v battery to run the motor but it was no good now use a lipo which i have installed under the deck in front of the motor.the large battery is running the watercooling pump and is also the prefect weight for ballast.NO problems with the salt water as i have got stainless steel, brass and copper fittings and a good flush threw the cooling system with fresh water. might be some time before i can put up a video because the council is draining the pool next week for the annual winter maintenance which is a bummer as there other suitable ponds handy. cheers Allan

R.A.F. Fire/Crash Tender by deepdiver Petty Officer   Posted: 9 days ago
I parched this model of an R.A.F. Fire/Cash Tender as an impulse buy, with the idea of restoring her, I am only selling due to me having started the Mobile Marine Lady “T” She is 34 1/2 inches in length and 10 inches in beam, comes with an E.S.C and Electric motor (may benefit from a brushless set up), there are some fittings but you would need to locate replacements. I am asking £30.00 and I would like to see her go to some one that has the time to put into restoring her to her best. Due to the size and weight it would be best to collect this boat. I am just outside Brighton Sussex Fred (Deep Diver)

Help! Mystery Boat by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 11 days ago
Thanks Dave, Shucks SOLD! Not to worry, having found the kit description, with pics of full fittings I'm surprised to see that not much is missing 😊 Some loose and some fixed in the wrong place 🤔 but mostly present. Since Krick now market this, and other Billings kits, here if I get stuck for something I can't make, which ain't much 😉 I'll ask them. Meantime on with Sea Scout Jessica. Started sanding off the dodgy bits today. Fine work starts tomorrow. Cheers Doug 😎

Couplings by sonar Admiral   Posted: 14 days ago
well Getting Back to the name of This Thread Couplings These are the couplings that I have been using. 4mm or 5 mm thread one end and up to 10 mm socket the other end. Joined together with rubber tubing. and small wire through the tubing and fittings for that little extra piece of mind. Buying the ends or complete coupling from MMM Also if using the 8mm socket end your find they will fit right over the std 4mm threaded fittings.

Graupner by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 18 days ago
or here's one with motor and all the fittings. He's started it but it looks quite tidy. In auction for €229.00 or offers, ends 02.06.17.

Graupner by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 18 days ago
Hi Brimarboat, How's your German? I found one here he says "Kit without motor or fittings, all plastic parts as new, wooden construction has been started." Price €90.00 About £80. Plus postage of course! It's in 75365 Baden-Württemberg - Calw in south west Germany. 😎

HMS Illustrious Aircraft carrier by Scratchbuilder Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 21 days ago
Hi Norm. I am building to 1/128th Using a Fleetscale basic format but making lots of the fittings.I attach a few pictures which may help.I have a lot more if you wish me to send the via post plus some reference books details.The picture of port side with crew on deck is circa 1949 so quite late.I am lucky to have a good size workshop so space is not a problem. Regards Bill.

Small scale cleats and bollards by Yax Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 23 days ago
Yes I have checked out the website there are some good fittings on there great information for a future build.

Sea Rover planking by Westquay Captain   Posted: 30 days ago
That, my friend, is exactly what an old Aerokits model should look like! Very nice finish and the deck looks very good. I have a Sea Rover from Heaven knows when, which was built with a nasty twist, but it will be undone and straightened when I get to it. I love the finish you've got on the blue. The fittings, not over the top. This is a classy ship! Looking forward to the next one. Martin

Lady Anne by Hybrid Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 1 month ago
This is me harbour tug I've bin building for the past 9 months and is now ready for a ballast and trial on the water I have made nearly all of this by hand with no plans the only thing I payed for are some of the fittings

First Boat Build in Progress by figtree7nts Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Hi metalikhajoe I can't wait to see your build post! Yes, you can use mine as a reference! I think yours will be about 3/8" = 1' foot or 1:32 scale that's what mine is! have you figured out where your going to get you fittings from? or are you going to make your own?

Glue guns by ronrees Petty Officer   Posted: 1 month ago
I have a lot of experience with Glue Guns having taught Technology in schools for 30 years +. There are two main types of glue stick-Hot melt and Low melt (for safer use). The hot glue will stick skin with often devastating results!!. I also build theatrical props and it is very useful for building all sorts of things and will stick most things well. ie wood, metal, plastics (which it can effect) glass, clothing, felt, straw, string, rubber and many many more, but they are all quick fixes and can come apart with constant use and vibration especially on shiny surfaces. In models I tend to use the stuff to hold cables in place and tack things in position quickly to align them before finally gluing with Epoxy. Motors can be be held in place with Hot Glue and the advantages are it makes a good sound insulator and can be repositioned for a few minutes before it goes cool. Also it can be prised off again if you need to change the motor. I would not not recommend it as a permanent fix on many model things and certainly not as a structural adhesive, fittings etc. will almost certainly fall off eventually. If you regard it as a third hand you'll find it a useful addition to your gluing arsenal. Happy boating......Ron.

Ketch Irene by hammer Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Thought I would have ago at the fittings for the booms. The bands around the mast made as before ( bore a bar to fit & part off). Solder a lug on place on a mandrill together & drill pivot hole, so they are the same. The barrel, drill down the centre of a 3/16th rod to fit a 3/32 rod. Solder on a lug wile soldering the rods together. Notice the small rod protrudes farther out at the bottom. This is so as I take the tension of the sail the top can pull out freeing the barrel, allowing the sail to be rolled around the boom. The lug is drilled 10BA clearance. The rod in the centre of the boom is turned from hexagon bar, a saw cut down the centre of the remaining hexagon. Drilled & tap 10BA & clearance one side. Now looking in my old gears, thinking of a size to make the reefing drum a stroke of luck. I found the wheels from a correction tape dispenser just the job. Made the stanchions in the 4 jaw. A jig to get the holes the correct distance from the out side of the hull. As the hull planks are 3" & the bulwark planks only 1" the do not run up flush as nearly all models show.

The radio aerial & handrails. by robbob Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Only the aerial base is supplied in the set of white metal fittings so it needs a rod added to complete it. First I bored out a hole through the base using a 2mm bit in a pin drill and then I used a short length of 2mm brass rod for the aerial. This rod was tapped with a 2mm thread and a nut filed to a round profile used as an end stop on the thread. I left sufficient thread below the base for fixing through the tapered aerial base, cabin roof and the reinforcing piece on the underside of the wheelhouse roof. The upper end of the rod was fitted with a hand turned knob as a finishing piece and for safety and the piece was sprayed with etch primer and two coats of white gloss. Finally I tapped a 2mm thread into a small piece of brass which was glued to the underside of the roof for the piece to screw into. The handrail bases were bought on-line from Polly Model Engineering and are 3½" gauge stanchions, normally used on steam locomotives, along with some 3/32" stainless steel rod and 8BA fixing nuts and washers. The fitting of these was quite straightforward but the two rails on the wheelhouse roof need to be bent to follow the roof curvature. The rods are fixed into the stanchions with a drop of thin superglue.

Looking for a particular person by Westquay Captain   Posted: 2 months ago
Alas, he talks a lot about old motors, but doesn't use them as such. I want to use mine, at least to try them out before I give up and go all buggy motor. (I call all cylindrical Jap motors "Buggy motors"). It's easier than remembering all the fancy numbers. Buggy or drill motors. I have an electric screwdriver whose batteries are pretty much dead, so there's another motor to go with the minidrill motors I already have! The way I see it is I used to use these old British motors years ago and they always worked, so why not now? I have them and I don't want them sitting on a shelf and I don't want to buy new Jap stuff or ESCs. Failing that, the boats will go on the shelf as show queens and I'll go all wind powered. I have a Veron Veronica, a one-off Dorade GRP hull of considerable age and a vintage Marblehead once owned by Sir Thomas Lipton. Oh and a partly built hull of a Victorian "Plank-on-edge" gaff cutter on which I used to live. Sounds like I need to sort my stuff out! Thanks for all the help. If anyone needs any help with things like mahogany speedboats, deck fittings, etc. please pick my brains. Cheers, Martin