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>> Home > Tags > fittings

fittings
deck fittings
fitting led
fitting the side skins
fittings
Deck Beams and Anchor Port's by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 7 hours ago
Hi Fred, More haste, less speed! It's not a race. Glad to see that you're making progress, but I would have waited to paint the inside of the hull until it was fitted out. To make sure that the internal fittings stick and STAY stuck. 😉 Good luck, Doug 😎

Skeg by robbob Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 days ago
Excellent work Michael👍. My second attempt a making a skeg for my boat was passable (eventually). I overdid the silver solder and spent ages filing the surplus away.....less is more, as they say. I finally mastered silver soldering with some of the later brass fittings I made, fortunately you also have a lathe and clearly a great deal more experience than me. Robbob.

Riva boat launch by Alan999 Lieutenant   Posted: 7 days ago
Riva was finally launched in the Torrevieja boat clubs water last Sunday after eleven months work. Fifteen coats of yacht varnish and final Polish of Turtle wax she went like a dream.Plans came from America and the plywood from local woodyard.Graupner 37 motor pushed 31 inches smoothly. Dumas supplied the chrome fittings

Too Powerful Brushless ? by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 14 days ago
Hi Dave, yep, seems Raboesch don't do direct sails and the Jotika site directs you to the shipwrightshop for orders. There they only seem (at the moment?) to have rubbish soldered props😡 http://www.shipwrightshop.com/shop/contents/en-uk/d7_RC-Ship... I get my Rab stuff from Krick, they do the full prop and shaft range. http://www.krickshop.de/Products/Accessories/Accessories-for... Excellent service, I get my order usually the next day, max 3 days. For 'other countries' they say 3 to 7 days for delivery, which ain't so bad😉 Just bought two 30mm M3 props from them to replace the nasty plastic things on my HMS Belfast. Ordered Wednesday - arrived Thursday😊Happy hunting, cheers Doug 😎

When to paint bits? by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 21 days ago
It's useful to paint some fittings before final fitting as this avoids paint spill on the surrounding areas. You have no other option if the piece is inaccessible once fitted. Model looking good but I suggest you fit the running gear and align. If you have not fitted the sides it is easier to get all in line. Looking forward to seeing how you progress.

1st build, templates by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 24 days ago
Hi Mark, Dampfgerd (= 'SteamGerd') is dead right! We need more info. (I recognise the typical German sentence construction and word order though😉 Kein Problem Gerd, es geht mit genau so anders herum! 😁) Mark; we need more info about what you are trying to build! Tip 1) Whenever you draw a plan, whether with computer or traditional ALWAYS ALWYS ALWAY draw a datum and dimension line along the keel. That way you at least know where you are starting from.😉 Tip 2) Note on the plan the dimensions of the original, at least the length overall (LoA) and maximum beam and the scale of the drawings you are making. Also note the size, LoA, of the model you want to build. Divide size of original by size of model and you have your scale, try to make it a whole number!! Soooo, what ship are you building, what size was she, and what scale (or maximum size) do you want it to be? And what size are your drawings? Page size? Cheers Doug 😎 PS as far as fittings (cannons and such) go look around the Internet to see what is available and in what scale, for instance http://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/ http://www.model-dockyard.com to name but two! Then use your scale accordingly. Could save a lot of agro and cash later 😉

Fairmount Alpine - TUG! by veganhouse Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 25 days ago
Billings Kit - my 2nd boat build. This time I thought I'd challenge my skills and build a plank on frame boat rather than using an ABS hull. Fairmount Alpine is a 75M Ocean going tug used for heavy duty work. The model is 1:75 scale, so around 1metre long. As I started this some time ago (before I joined this website) I'll put some regular posts up to catch up to where I am now... still not finished! Kit comes with all timber laser cut, brass fittings, instructions etc. Extra purchases of course are the motors / ESCs / and other electronics. This model is large enough to accommodate a few ancillaries such as lighting / bow thruster etc. Although laser cut, some of the joints needed trimming, and I had to use some of my bigger clamps!

Annabelle by veganhouse Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 27 days ago
[Score: 7/10] 26"/4000g Annabelle Capable of 3mph and a runtime of 30mins Single Propellor (3 Blade 35mm) Direct Drive to a 540 (3 Blade) Powered by NiMH (8.4v) 3Amp/h Batteries - Comments: My 1st tug boat -relatively small! Billings kit - ABS hull, wooden superstructure and decks, kit included hull and deck fittings in brass / plastic, propshafts, rudders and propellers. Good manual

46" Firefloat What Motor/Battery by pmdevlin Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 30 days ago
Hi John, you might now be scratching your head, and wishing you have not asked the original question! This seems to be a common issue, as the boating community is light years behind the other disciplines, rc cars, planes helis and so on, its probably due to the facts general boating doesnt really need the later generation technology, the average boater age is probably higher than the other disciplines so budgeting might be an issue, and there is less younger blood in the clubs to explain the lipo/brushless etc. We see posts with a load of numbers, specs, warnings etc, its enough to put people off. Im a big fan of brushless/lipo/ 2.4 etc, been doing it for years, its cheaper and more efficient (once you have the basics) but for the average guy, who just wants to spend an easy afternoon at the local lake gently cruising around, brushed motors, nimhs batteries, even lead acid, will do the job👍 Your 4 foot ply boat, once painted, with fittings, will be heavy, I know, I own one. Those 600 motors are not big enough, they are better suited to the smaller 3 foot boat, then, pushing them with a 6v lead acid, just cant do it. The battery will be screaming HELP!! I started 15 years back exactly the same, 600 motor, 6v battery, massive 50mm prop, I knew no better and took advise from people who didnt know what they were talking about😡, remember those gold hi tech speed controllers!! I had one, it melted, literally melted on the first use😭 Get 700 size motors, they will need to be water cooled, as mentioned by jarvo, the nominal voltage or below isnt good enough, power them at the max voltage. Brushed means you can use one apropriate esc, look out for electronize (are they still in existance?) or mtroniks, preferably use nimhs batteries over lead acid with a high mah. If after all this you want to venture into lipos and brushless motors, go to a club, spot a boat that is similar in size to yours, if you like the performance talk to the owner and gain experience and knowledge that way, it will save money, lost time and a lot of disappointment, I have been there so feel your pain. I say I would never go back to brushed motors and none lipo batteries, but I always want silly speed, not runtime, after 15 minutes Ive had enough and am bored. Rambling over! My 4 foot boat is twin brushless and uses 4 lipo 5000mah cells per motor, it will do 25mph for 15 mins, then I go home😁 Message is, you can get a "reasonable" performance from brushed motors, with the correct batteries, right props, but weight is the enemy. Looks lie you are at Biddulph, get onto Dave M a moderator on here, and arrange to go over to see the crewe and district boys on one of their sailing days, take your boat with you, they will help👍

Aero kits 34” Sea Commander and Scale enquiry by Penfold63 Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 30 days ago
Ok, so I’m thinking about fittings, which is probably a bit premature to be honest considering build progress to date, but then the issue of scale rears its ugly head. Please can the experts among you tell me what scale the Sea Commander is/appears to be? Anyone with one and has figures that look good, what size are your figures, life belts etc.? Thanks again for your help in advance.

Brass Fittings by SelwynWilliams Admiral   Posted: 30 days ago
very interesting, many thanks

The Vosper 46” RAF Crash Tender Kit By Vintage Model Works by Lyle Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 1 month ago
Dear Modellers and builders of the Vintage Model Works kit series. You will find my earlier pictures and various writings on the original earlier postings by me in OZ of my still some 30/plus years Crash Boat in which I wore out several I/C motors and my girl still runs in Salt Water at the local LAKE ILLAWARRA in New South Wales and you are somewhat fortunate with ready made fittings. I did not ever know of the "page" ( wish I had a copy ) on your wall of the rear well of fire hose details and fittings , wow what a bonus, as a colonial had several years till Peter Dimberline and I had contact and he helped me to authenticate my vessel. The ESSENTIAL secret of the Crash Boat is the spray rails. So many look toy in the videos and TOOOOOOO fast . The spray rails are doubled at width protruding from the hull and lesser at the point of "rise of the wood " towards the upper bow point. The depth is not too critical at a bit of about an eighth of an inch thickness or a bit thinner for the whole length as you do not want to see a "thick log ", rather again it is the width rather than depth. I know I have written on this before on this webb site in the past. The turns thus on the go become when starting on and STAY more on the go are more flatter rather like a full sized hull which has a planing/ flatter hull turn to the flatness of the water than a typical poorly behaving model boat hull which invariably heels TOOOO much and somewhat digging in , (in turns). The HARD CHINE hull design was meant to not only rise to a comfortable plane attitude but ALSO to turn without that annoying behaviour of "digging in" when it should still perform and exhibit that hard chine design attitude when in a turn . "Digging in" equals water resistance AGAINST the hull and loss of performance and loss of plane attitude and against wave resistance when the hull designers team is trying to maintain hard chine performance in the forward turning direction. I harp on this point that this hull design is one to respect . The older I get the more I expect of all my model machines that I am lucky to see on computers, as we certainly have more need to respect the masters, the likes of Peter Du Cane and T E Lawrence and Hubert Scott Payne of Vospers and Thornycroft and The British Power Boat Company and ELCO and Higgins, all of whom I have researched so much over my life and I have been to the memorial of Lawrence in the desert in Wadi Rum. I try to do it right. Regards to all builders Lyle. My mates and I have to run in 2 to 3 inch chop at times, such is the Lake Channel ! My wife has reminded me that some of my fleet do seem to have BLACK hulls and I only would build one model boat, when I bought the Aerobats Crash Boat home, the pictures are of some of my scratch built fleet.

Riva Chris Craft by Alan999 Lieutenant   Posted: 1 month ago
Finally the Riva completed. Numerous varnishing and rubbing down Dumas sent from America chrome fittings which gives really good finishing touch Built from plans and scrap plywood and veneer. So much more pleasure making than from kit. Will launch at Torrevieja boat club second Sunday of the month .

TRIUMPH (CG-52301) USCG Type F MLB by circle43nautical Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Laser cut kit from Barracuda RC Boats, N Carolina, USA. Baltic birch plywood false keel, ribs/frames, hull sheathing, deck and cabins. No formal plans; I was able to source a handful of B&W archival photos from the USCG website. Fortunately I was able to procure a motherload of archival photos and a few hard to read layout drawings from Mr. Timothy Dring, LCDR, USN (Ret.). He is co-author of "American Coastal Rescue Craft", which is the "bible" if you will, of such. I do sometimes thank the internet. I am certain that without his assistance, my efforts on this wouldn't have been as enjoyable. The kit was also void of fittings, which I was aware of prior to purchase, so I invested in a 3D printer. That I've used to a limited degree, due to searching for parts in the correct file format is mind-numbing! I have globally sourced fittings; USA, UK, ASIA. As a matter of fact, the searchlights I got from this Model Boat Shop were 3D printed, and I was able to fit 5mm LEDs into them. I'd like to get a couple more and put some superbright 12v LED drone lamps in them for use on my 35" towboat. Many deck fittings are handmade when possible, the cleats and fairleads are from Cornwall Boats, UK. (Very reasonable & diverse source, if you didn't already know.) I try to keep wood natural when detail allows it, as I never have enjoyed painting over natural grain. Her decks are covered with 1/16" scribed basswood sheathing from earthandtree.com, which is normally used for wainscoting dollhouse walls. All my boats that have wood decks are covered with scribed sheathing; I feel it makes 'em look "sexy". Believe it or not, the idea for wainscoting came from finding 3/16" at Hobby Lobby's dollhouse department. A couple of feet x 3.5" was about $16, so I found a less expensive source that also had more selections (earthandtree.com) The rail stanchions are 3/16" square dowels with 2 corners rounded over on the Dremel router table. Leaving their base square, I fit a square peg into a round hole with no glue to facilitate removal, and also for ease of replacing broken ones, which is inevitable. The rail is 1/16" brass rod that also is readily removable. The stern rail is stationary on the lower half, and the chain & wire stanchions are removable for towing ops. The deck coamings and knuckle are African mahogany strips, other mahogany accents came from leftovers of a prior build. I also try on all my boats, to incorporate vintage leftover scribed sheathing salvaged from my late Father's builds, so I know he's got a part in my builds. Note-the raised deck section between the aft ladder trunk and towing bit is actually a laminated deckhouse he made for the Frigate Essex. Unfortunately, he was unable to build that kit due to Alzheimer's disease in his latter years. (I blame that mostly on the hazardous fumes from the airplane "dope" & glue he used when building RC planes in the 60s & 70s.) I use polyurethane instead of resin due to COPD, 37 yrs of smoking, I quit 2.5 yrs ago. The driveline consists of: 775 Johnson DC main (3500 RPM@12V), Harbor Models 4mm x 14" shaft w/brass stuffing box, Raboesch 75mm 5-blade brass wheel (not OEM), 5mm U-joint couplers, Dimart 320A fan-cooled ESC. Handmade wooden teardrop rudder on a 3/8" sternpost, 1/4" tiller arm steered by a Halcion sail winch servo and cable system. Flysky 6 channel. The nav lights and other illumination are Lighthouse 9v LEDs, also a GoolRC Receiver controlled flashing blue Law Enforcement light. Obviously, I put the cart before the horse and completed the topsides and below deck before finishing the outer hull, but the Wx and season change dictated such. Can't wait for Spring!

Artesania Latina Amsterdam by AllenA Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
It was worth venturing down to the Boot Sale this morning as I found this Amsterdam Tug with fittings for £20. It is an Artesania Latina model and needs considerable restoration. If anyone has plans or build instructions which might help, I would be happy to purchase them.