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>> Home > Tags > former

Roof Skins by mturpin013 Captain   Posted: 1 day ago
Having sorted the windows out, they can now wait until the detailing is finished before final fitting. The roof skins are all compound curves so they will need to be steamed and formed before fitting as they will definitely have to hold their shape as there isn’t as much to fasten them to in terms of framework. After final fitting I will glass both inner and outer faces which will ensure the shape is retained and also help strengthen them to withstand any bumps /knocks during its lifetime. I made formers out of some softwood to match each of the roof profiles. Each piece was then soaked in hot water for around 5 mins and then clamped on the formers and left to dry for a day or so.

HMS HOOD by Trumpeter by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 days ago
Hi Peter, 'Hellgrau' is German for light grey. And DKM means Deutsche Kriegs-Marine. UA603 /DKM50 is in the Set 1 that you have. I also have the Lifecolor Set 1 (Surface Ships) and also the Set 2, Cammo colours, these are for my U-Boat. Attached is a colour chart of the former White Ensign Colour Coats naval paints, now sold by Sovereign Hobbies in UK. See 'KM01 Hellgrau 50'. So if the Lifecolor set runs out you can restock from them 😊👍 Happy spraying, cheers Doug 😎 BTW: Re 'Collection'! that was only the half of it😲 I've started an Excel 'Stash Log' to keep track, I should live so long to build them all - I've come to regard some as an investment as many are originals and rare 😉 Did I mention Cambletown, German Narvik destroyer, T45 and Illustrious in 1/350 and a Fletcher class at 1/144, Scharnhorst at 1/400 ?? 😁 NTM the original Revell 1/72 Flower Class, and a whole box load of PE to go with it - much more than is in the later 'Premium' version 😉

Thanks for a warm welcome by CB90 Lieutenant   Posted: 6 days ago
I Have just joined the Darlington & District Model Boat Club on Wednesday 14th March 2018. What a great bunch of lads. The club house is on the sites of a Victorian former reservoir which is about 88m x 85 m and about 2m deep. The water is accessible all the way round and has launching area on one side. The club house is a brick building with a meeting room, toilet, storage area and a building/repair area. Sailing/meetings are on: Wednesdays 9.00am -16.00 Sunday 8.00am - mid day. Membership fee is £50 Per year adult and £5 for a junior. This includes Third party public liability insurance very important and often overlooked. Location The Waterpark, Middleton St George, Darlington, Co. Durham DL2 1JG

WTF by Skydive130 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 8 days ago
Thinking the former lol

Devil in the detail! by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 9 days ago
I'm with you there Skydive 👍What Boatshed means is the part of the rudder in front of the stock. Thinks: are you building an Offshore Power Boat or a scale Lifeboat? If the former then follow Boatshed's recommendation. If the latter and the rudder is 'scale' then leave it alone. Any braking effect, which usually is only significant in a fast racing boat model or other fast planing types, can be diminished by reducing the rudder servo throw at the TX. One should also consider how the original behaved, maybe they did 'dig in' maybe not. There has to be a reason why such rudders were developed, and surely not just to annoy modellers 😁 One more minor point that struck me - Ouch 😭 Your prop struts! "not that it provides a huge amount of support but adds to the scale appearance." Even in a model they can be important. To help reduce potential whipping of the propshaft, especially if the model is overpowered. Actually in the originals they were vital, especially in larger vessels. The purpose of these struts, in larger vessels 'A' frames, is to provide support to the end of the shaft which carries the prop weighing several tons and, more important, to carry the bearing for the outer end of the shaft! Actually in the originals the shaft tube, or 'Stuffing Box' would not extend significantly beyond the hull. Thus the strut or A frame was vital for the shaft end bearing, fitted immediately in front of the prop for maximum stability. Attached pics of my HMS Belfast (sorry don't 'ave nutt'n smaller with this feature🤔) show the arrangement. Have witnessed such construction in various shipyards around the world. Last one in UK was the first T45, quite an experience! 😲 In the end she's your boat, if it feels good do it! 😉 I would leave the rudder alone if it is 'as fitted'. 👍 I make my struts and A frames from brass sheet and tube. Cheers Doug 😎 PS Stick with the brass Donnie! 👍

Fairmile D 1/24 Scale Build by Smiffy Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 13 days ago
Hi Andy I am interested to read about your plans for a dog boat as I am thinking of doing the same (when my Thames steam launch is eventually finished....!). One reason that I am considering this is that my headmaster, when I was at Maidenhead Grammar School in the 1960's, was a former skipper of MGB 658 and I am lucky enough have autographed copies of two of his books. "Motor Gunboat 658" is a fascinating read if you haven't already come across it, as is "Dog Boats at War" with plenty of useful information and photographs - just two of the books by Len Reynolds DSC. (He rose from Navigating Officer to Captain during the war in the Mediterranean theatre and served on MGB 658 from its commissioning in 1943 to the war's end.) Apologies by the way if you already know all this! Two questions if you don't mind - are you going to do a complete scratchbuild from plans or complete a fibreglass hull, and which/whose plans are you using? This may help my own decisions later on. I have seen that there are plenty of the appropriate weapons in 1/24th scale on the Deans website which should make life easier with the fiddly bits! Very best wishes with the build. Smiffy

The Smoke Stack by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 14 days ago
Mornin' Ed! Glad it helped 👍 Dumas was more 'respectable' than I was when I first built my HMS Hotspur destroyer. I used squashed 'bog roll' tubes for the funnels😲 I guess that's probably 'hygiene paper' and 'smoke stacks' to you guys over there. In my defence: I was 15 and used whatever was in my 'line of sight' 😉 30 odd years later I replaced them with 1/32" balsa wrapped around several 1/4" formers, and lots of wood sealer! We live and learn 😉 BTW: 2nd coat of lacquer on the Sea Scout deck, see pic, some might be happy with this surface finish but after the success with the cabin roof I want to push my limits!! Could be a long night 😁 Will post details of the technique in my Sea Scout blog, main ingredient is PATIENCE! Cheers Doug 😎 PS: just opened a bottle of French 'elbow grease'; Rosé de Loire!!!

Calling Devon boaters. Help! by wunwinglo Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 16 days ago
My 95 year old uncle is a former MTB captain living in a care home in Exmouth. His brother, my late father, built a nice Vosper MTB model in the fifties that has not run since 1962. I have recently restored, upgraded and recommissioned this model and I would really like to show my uncle her running on a lake. Unfortunately, the lake at Exmouth has been filled in recently and the nearest alternative that I can find on the net is about 45 miles away which is too far for him to travel. The model is now electric and so is quiet, about 40 inches long and a fairly hot performer at full chat. If you are active in this area, I would be most grateful to be informed of any suitable closer waters and the requirements to access it. Thanks guys.

boiler by hammer Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 16 days ago
I have a large jubilee clip I tighten around the flange, nearing completion. This stops rebound at the next tap, go around the clip tighten , repeat twice then anneal again. Finally clamped between wood, mounted upside down, the fit can be seen. The problem using wood instead of metal for the former, the edge of the copper can dig in & make removal difficult. Looking at the joint in this way avoids this. Both caps fitted, holes for sight glass & steam feed. bushes to turn up, then silver solder.

Fishfull Thinking by Krampus Admiral   Posted: 20 days ago
Greetings from Germany! I've been out of the net for a while and rebuilding this boat with a totally new superstructure, paint job and electronics. I obtained the fiberglass hull measuring 24.5 X 9 inches from a California fellow via E-bay. Formerly a 45-footer Chris Craft at 1:24 scale, this updated vessel was inspired on a 1970s 30-footer Chris Craft Tournament Fisherman and on 1970s 28 and 33-footer Bertram boats. 😁 The Chris Craft in the attached picture from an early days brochure was the very only Chris Craft utilizing a Deep-Vee hull. The story goes that they apparently copied their boat following the lines of a Bertram 28 based on famed boat designer Ray Hunt. Bertram sued in court and Chris Craft ended up building less than 200 boats of this type. After all, the Chris Craft vessel ended up being better than the Bertram in terms of cabin space and overall value. Highly cherished within the American sports fishing community, many of these boats are still up and running.

boiler by hammer Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 23 days ago
Started the end plates. The former is wood as I don't have any steel thick enough. Managed with wood before. Annealed to flatten the tube & cut circle on band saw. Annealed again persuade over former. Anneal again now in the citric acid.

Just getting started by Smiffy Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 24 days ago
Hi - like Ron I am just getting started (again) having come back to model boats via model engineering. I built several as a teenager in the 1960’s including HMS Cossack, an E Boat and the tug Bustler,all from MAP plans and so where in the garage there is the unfinished hull of HMS Kent. As a break from constructing a 3 1/2” gauge steam locomotive I built the twin cylinder oscillating engine for the steam launch Miranda by Basil Harley (first published in 1983) so thought I had better build the launch as well. With regard to clamps I have been making use of toolmakers clamps from my workshop, as you can see in the photo of the keel and hull formers, but need to go and buy some sprung ones that are a bit less fiddly! Pictures attached are of the beginnings of the hull and the engine. Smiffy

Just getting started by ChrisF Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 25 days ago
Fortunately being a former architectural draughtsman I'd got all the drawing equipment that I need. You're bang on as regards clamps, I've just had to pop round to Homebase and get some more for my current build! You can never have too many! Chris

another daft question by marky Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 27 days ago
how we used to joogle 1/4"plate some of these could be 20ft long with holes punched for rivets later on we used a break press with a former ,hope the drawings make sense .Cheers Marky

another daft question by marky Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 27 days ago
in the bad old days when i had to put on the overalls and graft for a bob or two we used a lock former to joogle light sheet metal some times we used to get repair work in the yard and had to fold a joogle in 1/4"plate by putting a piece of flats bar on the leading edge and using the 50ton folder to press a joogle into the plate a.will do a sketch and post it when I can find a pencil which have all mysteriously gone walk about a.Cheers Marky👍