Hello Gerhard, and thank you for the interest. Unfortunately Speranza is on hold and no building has taken place since the last photo update. The reason being i foolishly did not follow protocol with the Spruce chine stringers, and fitted or attempted to fit them as a solid, instead of laminating. A short while after they were pinned and glued they sprang and cracked on the bow formers. This will be repairable with a laminate behind or inside the stringer then shape as drawing. At the moment i have near completion a Gentleman's Cruiser named Elizabeth.. There is a blog on her.. Speranza is a nice build and should be a good all weather sailor. If you are building her, good luck and please send in photographs.. Regards Muddy
SLEC do have a good reputation and its great that the classic kits of old are back in production. The Sea Commander is one of my favourites as I restored one many years ago but foolishly sold it to fund my karting activities four years later. However in 2011 I found another one and restored that. This one I am keeping along with the 34 inch Crash Tender of 1962 vintage that I restored in 2014 being one that the former owner was about to place in a skip. I am interested in a Sea Rover as its a boat I never had. In the early 1960s when we lived in Liverpool, dad would take us up to Fleetwood to see the Aerokits display and watch the steering event on the big lake. Nostalgia aint what it used to be. Boaty😆
Thanks Ed. I will have one more go and if that fails I will ask Cormorant.😊 mturpin013, The kit comes with a hull assembly base plate which aligns all of the formers in the correct position. I will add a picture with the hull in place tomorrow. I would like to see your picture though as I hope to do a scratch build in wood next year.😊
Hi and welcome to the forum. Yup, SLEC are good guys. They're within a pleasant car toodle from me. I have a set of Crash Tender fittings from them since they bought out the Vintage Model Boat Company. Sea Commander is a lovely boat and all the Aerokits are good performers. I have several. Good to see another Chris-Craft builder on here. The world needs more woody fans! Cheers, Martin
😲 Another one for the 'Woodies'? "A former city employee in the Fukushima prefecture town of Koriyama has built a 4-meter (13-ft) long canoe from thousands of used disposable chopsticks recovered from the city hall cafeteria. Bothered that perfectly good wood was going to waste after a single use, Shuhei Ogawara -- whose job at city hall involved working with the local forestry industry -- spent the last two years of his career collecting used chopsticks from the cafeteria. An experienced canoe builder, Ogawara spent over 3 months gluing 7,382 chopsticks together into strips to form the canoe shell, to which he added a polyester resin coat. The canoe weighs about 30 kilograms (66 lbs), which is a bit heavier than an ordinary cedar canoe, but Ogawara is confident it will float. A launching ceremony is planned for May at nearby Lake Inawashiro." Three thousand six hundred and ninety-one number 29s with special flied lice please waiter! 😁😁 Oh yes, and a thousand gallons of Tsingtao to wash it down please 😋 http://pinktentacle.com/2008/04/canoe-made-from-disposable-c...
Continuing with the cabin, trying to keep it light in weight. The sides and inner former's made up, started on the front windscreen's. Forgot the procedure about cutting the windows and then fitting the veneer, fitted the veneer and had to cut out the windows veneer and 3mm ply all glued up. Once the apertures were marked out, purposely drilled though from the veneer side just trying to avoid any splitting of the veneer, it worked. Fitted the front screens and reinforced the framework with 5 min epoxy, a quick sand down and all was well. Next item was the roof, as i wanted a light as possible upper works decided on .8mm ply, it looked and felt a little fragile, but once the Titebond glue was applyed all held down with elastic bands, also using 3 strips of 3/8" x 1/8" Obechie longitudinally down the top of the cabin roof to help stop ant edge "Barrelling" at formers. Regards Muddy.
Upperworks, this launch has a long cabin and a well deck ( Gin Parlour ).. Sides were traced out and cut from 1.5mm ply, internal formers are 3mm ply, spacers and struts Obechie, the cabin front is formed with Balsa which will be covered in 1.5mm ply, all the external faces have been veneered in Mahogany, except the roof which will be probable a piece of ply. The old favourite 1 inch ring saw came into play again for the cutting out of the windows. Applied the veneer after cutting out the windows, have found this easier and it tends not to split and crack the veneer, so one has to recut the window openings but its a very quick and easy job if you use a 1/2 inch drum sander in something like a Dremel hobby type drill. I,m afraid we have the oposite of Rain stopped play , its Sun stopped play at the moment.. You may notice the "Old Batteries" and cans, used as weights to hold down / compress the veneer, also the Jig saw, bolted to a piece of ply and then clamped into the B&D Workmate, I aint got room for a bandsaw which i would love, so this lash up has done me proud for a few years. Regards Muddy....
Martin, Please note that your comment about "no insurance" is misleading. All model flyers should be insured and proved competent by passing at least the BMFA "A"test. This is speaking as a former instructor and "B"certificate holder.
Hi Doug, I dread to think what a Proxxon version of a Jacobs chuck would run to. They seem to be outrageously expensive things. I only have a Proxxon drill because it was on a deal too good to miss, but the electronic speed controller went nappoo after a few weeks, so I cut it out and wired it direct, so it's flat out all the time. Having said that it has tolerated that for literally years since. I also use the Proxxon transformer to power my other mini tools, which are all the much missed and very reasonably priced Mini(Maxi)craft stuff. I have a circular saw, orbital sander and disc sander and all are plugged into the Proxxon power box when required. The circular saw must have cut miles of deck planking by now! Cheers, Martin
Hi Martin, the one on the far left in the pic is made to the same recipe as formerly issued on RN ships! 😜 Pussers (Purser's) is the nickname the Jack Tars gave it. 😉 Having worked often in S. America Cuba Libre is my favourite way of 'lengthening' rum. Saúde! 👍 Cheers All, 'Down the hatch' 😁
May be someone may want to make paddles using this method. If you do & you have a lathe should be no problems. First turn wooden blanks & mark centre & number of spokes required. Rap strip brass around the former cut & join to a tight fit. it is important as this will keep them the same size. Align the drill accurately to the spokes. Drill one & pin it with a short piece of spoke material, so the strip doesn't move wile drilling rest. The centre hub was divided in the lathe. On assemble three spokes in my case immediately aligned the rings, that is if the holes are right. If not fettling is the order of the day. I soft soldered mine as the structure is inherently strong. Note soldered away from the marks on blanks, to preserve them. The dishing can be seen on the finished upright wheel. This was achieved by a thick washer under the hub, & clamping the outer ring down on to the former. I did try bending the spokes before fitting. But had trouble as the rings didn't align automatically. Clean up by hand. Only Three more to make.
I though I had posted about wheels but cant find it. so am repeating. I have cut wheel from aluminium plate in the past. This is a waste & a tedious job. This time I am building them up with strip & rod. Wooden formers turned up for inner & outer rims. Strip raped around & Joint soldered. then holes drilled for the spokes. A hub tuned & drilled, the accurate holes have aligned every thing in the right position. One ready for soldering. Inner wheel almost flat. Outer dished to stop lateral movement. Spokes marked in red from board for bends.
Gunwhale rubbing strakes As these pieces will be under stress they need to be steamed into shape prior to fitting so out with the wallpaper stripper and modified tube (1/4 BSP fitting in the bottom of an old piece of IKEA cloths rail).For the gunwhale strakes I used the same former as I used for the stringers so 20 mins in the steamer then into the jig for 2 days drying. The chine rubbing strakes will need a different jig but this time a left and right hand version as not only do they bend round but also up at the bow. I was however disappointed with the quality of the 3/16 square obeche as the grain was nearly at 45 degrees to its length – it snapped before I started to bend it, just pushing it into the jig I bought some better pieces from the local model shop. I temporally fitted the gunwhale rubbing strake slightly proud of the deck level in order to drill all the pin holes then remove and mix up some epoxy, coat the length and hook into the brass bow and start tapping in the pins along the length of the boat, repeat on the port side. Chine rubbing strakes are still in the jig!