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>> Home > Tags > forum

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New to Forum by DodgyGeezer Commander   Posted: 1 day ago
"..Are any of the clubs focused on non RC models?..." Some people make the small EeZeBilts as static models - see here: http://smm.solidmodelmemories.net/SMF/index.php?topic=982.15

New to Forum by jacko Captain   Posted: 2 days ago
then there is brazing 😊 did a load of this when working with high pressure copper tubing 👍

New to Forum by mturpin013 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 days ago
A note on plumbers acid flux (Bakers fluid) yes it does work however don't leave any instruments/equipment you value in the vicinity of the soldering process because it will be as rusty as hell the day after. Other soldering activities soft and silver 1 cleanliness is paramount 2 correct solder and flux 3 temperature or your iron or gas torch 4 (soft) only apply solder when your work is at temperature 5 (silver) apply solder when your work is at temperature and just before make sure your solder is introduced to the flame and is fluxed . 4 finally use a minimal amount of solder it reduces number 5 5 clean the joint PS if silver soldering before the job has totally cooled quench it in cold water, this will make the flux easier to remove otherwise it hardens like glass. Good look

New to Forum by DodgyGeezer Commander   Posted: 2 days ago
"..., however I have built from some plans. I build small models, 10" is my biggest and most are under that..Usually I draw what I want to build, make templates, transfer to balsa, and build.." Have you seen this site? Provides free templates for exactly the kind of models you make. See the illustrations.... http://eezebilt.tk While clean surfaces are the correct way to make solder flow and stick properly, you will find that plumber's Acid Flux will give you a successful solder joint on pretty much any surface, no matter how dirty...

New to Forum by JOHN Lieutenant   Posted: 2 days ago
well back in the day (when Noah was building the ark) and I was serving me time :-) we used to have a golden rule about ferrous and non-ferrous metals and solder - Ferrous metals and alloys contain iron and they tend to rust; non-ferrous materials do not. . such as brass, copper and so forth and these are the easy ones to solder with soft solder. Ferrous metails which contain iron as we have said - we need to use a harder solder such as brazing silver solder and then we are into the field of Welding. Basically the art of soldering is to find out the type of materials we intend to join together and then we can come up with the appropriate method. Stainless steel is a different world altogether and so is aluminium. Hell of a subject to get into 🤓

New to Forum by Newby7 Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 2 days ago
Hello I myself think soldering is practice doing clean surfaces are the first step flux, type of solder and a good iron . Holding the pieces in jigs or clamps will assist in the final out- come. At first it seems very hard but practice will prove to help and soldering becomes a little easier. Rick

New to Forum by onetenor Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 days ago
Re soldering there are many tutorials on line showing all aspects of soldering but basically means clean surfaces correct fluxes and solder and above all sufficient heat.👍

New to Forum by retirement-hobby Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 2 days ago
Hello fellow model boaters. I'm new here so forgive my posting mistakes. Just wanted to introduce myself, I've been building model boats (static) for about 5 years. I mostly build my concept of a boat, however I have built from some plans. I build small models, 10" is my biggest and most are under that. I also have a fascination with air boats and have built several. Does anyone deal with soldering metal components, having a problem with material. Usually I draw what I want to build, make templates, transfer to balsa, and build. Are any of the clubs focused on non RC models? Looking to learn and share!👍

Props - dumb question? by DodgyGeezer Commander   Posted: 3 days ago
The down side of prop rotation is that the Europeans use one method of defining it and the Americans use another - and they are contradictory. From the Prop-Shop site "Please note that propeller rotation is based on the British and American standard (viewing the boat from the stern) which is the opposite to that in Germany." See https://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/ style='background-color:yellow;'>forum/index.php/topic,35415.msg418661.html?PHPSESSID=svi2h5353cc8fjds8h7krcqnh0#msg418661

Good buy from Lidl by Lordgord Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 3 days ago
So glad I read these forums, got my bargain sander from lidl the other day to replace the one I GAVE AWAY when moving house. Won't make that mistake again. 👍

Guestbook Post by retirement-hobby Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 3 days ago
I'm a static model boat builder, I build from scratch, and have built from plans. Looking for a model building forum to share and ask questions. I've been building models for about 5 years. I'll post some pictues later.

New Website Sneak Peak by Fireboat Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 6 days ago
Thought I'd share a sneak peak of the new website with everyone. I was hoping it'd be live by now, but things have required more development time than I first thought. So instead of giving you all a half-baked system, I've kept it in development a bit longer. In the screenshots: - New home page layout, forum middle-top, then build blogs, media gallery, events, clubs/lakes, new harbour boats, a new section for how-to articles and useful links. - How-to articles can be edited - Useful links can be posted on their own - Any member can follow any other member - Forum threads as well as blogs can be followed - New events section, with calendar and map - New places section, also with map - Cleaner layout for forum threads and blogs - Completely refreshed mobile app - New ranking system (some of you will change rank, but it'll remain fair to who has contributed the most) - Easier login, easier uploading of files, easier posting in general - Faster website, all database queries have been restructured to provide fast responses - New notifications area showing all updates to everything you're following There's a tonne more, I do think you'll all love the new site once it's live. Still don't want to promise dates, but when it's ready, it'll launch! Many thanks again to everyone who supports this website. Without this, we'd have sunk years ago! Stephen

Help with vintage rc. by DodgyGeezer Commander   Posted: 8 days ago
I wouldn't want to stop people running old kit - far from it! I have a single-channel 1962 Macgregor with a Kinematic which I use occasionally - when there's no other 27Mhz around. But you need to be aware of the issues. With this sort of kit (and even worse for valve systems) you will find that summer is for sailing, and winter is for repairing. Here is the start of a thread on RC Groups with myself and Taurus Flyer sorting out a capacitor problem on the TX - which meant reverse engineering both the Rx and TX.... https://www.rcgroups.com/ style='background-color:yellow;'>forums/showthread.php?2609824-Reverse-engineering-and-repair-of-a-vintage-Metz-Mecatron-single-channel-radio/page32 One example of problems you may encounter is that the caps in old kit tend to die, particularly if the equipment has not been used for many years. Electrolytics, in particular, suffer. See https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electrolytic_capacitor#Failure... You can sometimes reform the electrolytics by turning the TX and Rx on and leaving them powered up for a day or so. It's tricks like this that you need to be aware of if you are going to run vintage equipment....

RC steam lever by Newby7 Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 11 days ago
Hi Gary Thought I would up date you just ordered the TVR steam engine and also the levers for RC operation your help in finding these items has been a great help will keep in contact on the forum. Rick

Folding Bulwark????! by JOHN Lieutenant   Posted: 15 days ago
hi there Toby - so we meet on this Forum 😊 I have had a good look through 2 or 3 books to name steam coasters and one of my favourite ones Merchant Ship construction (the apprentices Bible) to see if I could find any information about how the folding bulkheads were secured. Sadly, though, there doesn't seem to be any in the books - the ones I have anyway - but when I did a search on the web I came across a few interesting photographs which shows one or two of the East India ships obviously in foreign ports - but - the way they were unloading/loading the ships was they had folding bulwarks in the down position and rather large wide gangplanks running up from the shore which the natives were using to load the ships. Also, some of these ships carried livestock on deck and these folding bulwarks would ease loading of cattle etc or whatever into the pens. John