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>> Home > Tags > frames

34" RAF Crash Tender Windows by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 7 hours ago
Mike, it's very easy to make your own frames from 60 thou. Plastikard. I used a piercing saw and Swiss files, then cut Perspex to fit inside the frames, sealed with Canopy glue. You don't need frames for anything but the wheelhouse windows. The others have a small gutter just above the window, which is easily made from brass wire and glued on once bent to shape. Glaze the windows like the others, with tightly cut Perspex glued in. Cheers, Martin

inaccurate plans by steve-d Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 6 days ago
Not happy to find that 2 of the frames are not the correct shape. I've added a scan of the frames. There should be an even change of spacing of the frame profiles. I think in shipbuilding terms they call it 'fair'. You can see there is not an even transition at frames 12 and 52.

Styrene Allergy? by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 9 days ago
Where gloves are concerned, use blue nitrile as there are probably more people allergic to latex than styrene! Don't know about you though, but I can't breathe in any mask worth it salt. I just do it all outside in the almost permanent breeze that blows round my bungalow. I stand in the doorway of the shed and spray out into the great blue yonder. Styrene, fortunately doesn't affect me. When Slater's first popularised Plastikard, old man Slater used to demonstrate the making of things like model house window frames with Micro strip and Slater's own solvent called Mek-Pak. The smell was glorious and just oozed quality modelmaking to me. I always made a bee-line to Slater's stand at any suitable exhibition. These days I use Plastic Weld as it does more plastics than just styrene and it doesn't have that lovely "esterish" smell. Martin

Springer by onetenor Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 14 days ago
When using ply be aware that ply bends more easily in one direction than the other.Use this KNOWLEDGE to make your planking a little easier. There is a BENDY ply that actually can roll very easily. The Orange store and the like stock it. It is used to encase cabinet frames such as round or oval islands etc. Happy bending👍

welding by lesliebreame Admiral   Posted: 16 days ago
all frames welded to keel.

welding by lesliebreame Admiral   Posted: 17 days ago
Started welding frames to keel.

Nomenclature... by onetenor Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 27 days ago
Ha Ha i got no credit for some things I came up with either Trouble is I can only remember the word FANTABULOUS which I invented by accident Fantastic and fabulous ame to mind together as I was talking and the hybrid word came out.🤓🤓 Re the BECS I know that but I couldn't explain it like you and was also asking what I thought Martin wanted to know. Floating arrays? Didn't TESLA do something similar during the RC boat . trials? Or was that actually the vessel itself? In one of my bigger boats I used FOUR ex GPO L/A cells which was enough with it's Ex forces motors to put a bone in the boat's teeth as the say. The boat ? RMV Mauritania 5 feet long but very light for it's size hence the need for the accumulator cells Balsa frames and sides with ceiling tile superstructure with balsa bracing. Free running so it was always heeling and with the bone creaming at the forefoot was very impressive. Destroyed by a guy collapsing on it. He'd only fainted but me pore owl gerl was just chips and snowflakes from one end to the other. Nothing to repair as there was nowt left to repair🤐 I kept one cell for starting glow motors and sold the rest at a good profit. Incidentally the motors were that good that when everyone found out where to get them They were sold out in 2 days with no more available anywhere Don't know what they were out of but from the overspray on them ( cockpit green but the Yank version -- we thought) we believed they were from planes. Very solid with 9 segment rotor . Totally enclosed. Airtight? presumably to prevent arcing igniting fumes. The rotorsegments? We found out when one didn't run so we stripped it and found them shining at us. Lovely tight windings. Thick with shellac/varnish. The problem? A stuck brush caused by a tight pivot Drop of 3 in one oil and a very light smear of grease cured it. The carbons were replaceable if you could make or find some. I found a firm in Formby that made and sold brushes for anything. I fixed son's Fiat automatic thenks to them. It had a magnetic clutch and the brushes were so worn we didn't know what the shape should be. Turned out to be about 2 inches long rectangles plain and simple. LOL. Wish I could find some of those lovely engineered motors now.😤👍

Clyde Puffer by lesliebreame Admiral   Posted: 1 month ago
Probably copper plates soldered together and soldered tabs to hold it to the frames. The plates will have artificial rivets embossed around the edges.....hmmmm just had the thought that if i could get rivets small enough i could actually real rivet it !!! Les

bulkheads by reilly4 Admiral   Posted: 1 month ago
Why do you need Schottel drives? The Voith Schneider drives in that configuration can move the boat in any direction? Schottel drives will require fairly big penetrations through the hull, and apart from the installation complications, should (in my opinion) be unnecessary. This is a link to a fairly comprehensive brochure with photos of the real thing that will help in understanding the concept etc.

bulkheads by green72west Petty Officer   Posted: 1 month ago
I have hopefully posted photos of stern/bow shape of bulkheads + side view of the hull. there are 20 frames in the hull. how can I install x2 graupner schottel [2335] at the bow. I will have to leave out the keel under hull. thankyou Green. the plans are 1/50th scale.

Clyde Puffer by lesliebreame Admiral   Posted: 1 month ago
My friend Gordon has made all the drawings for the frames from the original builders blue prints. The boiler he designed sort of based on the Cochran original and i made it, tig welding the copper bits {3mm } and tig welding the stainless smoke box.It took a year to make [ part time of course ] and Gordon steam tested it last weekend as you can see in the the photo [ we previously hydraulic tested it to 300lb ] . I will mig weld the frames to the keel and probably braze the stringers as i will only use 3mm square steel and welding may not be suitable. Plating the outside with copper will be a challenge !!! Gordon wants the plates to look lifelike so i need to punch imitation rivets along the edges. Might take another year or two !! Materials for the boiler came to £300 and the laser cutting frames £1000 for four sets so this project does not come cheap !! Will post pictures as the boat progresses. Les Breame

Clyde Puffer by lesliebreame Admiral   Posted: 1 month ago
Members might be interested in the preliminary construction details of our Puffer . Shown is the steel laser cut keel with frames slotted in position . I have to make a jig to hold the whole lot in place while i weld it up. The boiler i made earlier and Gordon already has a beautiful compound engine ready to go. He tested the boiler under steam recently to 80lb and all is well.Will post more pictures as and when. Les Breame

Launch ELAINE, by Colin H. Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Well today the radio specialist guys checked out the reciever for me, apparently it would need a new capacitor, a 90 volt and a 2 volt supply. Not really possible in such a small boat. So I've decided to use it for my vintage displays. The boat itself will be renovated and fitted with an electric motor, possibly a 600 as I have a couple in the spares box. Still looking for a way to remove the kitchen nozzle system. The motors that operate it are working so hopefully should be controllable by modern rc gear. Might need Dougs help designing a system I can build. BTW the Hull and cabins and deck is constructed from 1/4 Inc ply. Bit heavy but good and solid except for some of the frames are very soft and crumbly. Will start a resurrection blog soon. Cheers Colin.

Pilot Boat by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Agreed Mike, that was exactly my thought as studied the pics of frame arrangements👍 Pete, I hope you managed to get all frames fitted at right angles to the keel! To skin it I would fix the frame structure firmly to a build-board upside-down as Mike says. Make sure the keel is straight and then FIX THE BOTTOM SKINS FIRST making sure that they are flush to the keel and that the keel is straight and the frames not twisted. Leave overnight to set thoroughly. If you are having trouble fitting the skin round the bow and sticking the whole length then as a first stage glue the 'flat' bit aft. Leave to set overnight and then you can play with the 'bent' bits the next day without shifting what you have already done.😉 When the bottom skins are fixed file and sand to fit so you can fit the side skins smoothly and down over the bottom skin edges. Use the same technique for the side skins, stick the back end first if you ain't got enough hands handy to fiddle aft and bow on simultaneously😉 Use clamps if you can, e.g. the simple plastic X types or bulldog clips, whatever. Instead of Sellotape try aluminium Duct Tape. Cheers, Doug 😎

tugboat keel by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Frames! Or bulkheads when they are solid across the hull Mr Green.😉 Cheers, Doug 😎