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>> Home > Tags > frames

Speranza 01 by muddy Lieutenant   Posted: 1 day ago
This is one that i,ve yearned after for some considerable years. Had the plans in the 1960's, I think, but it was always put on the back burner. But needs must, we have a big sailing lake now and a Sea Queen looks ideal on this water. Speranza, built from Plans, first thing source the timber, 5mm ply for keel and bulkheads,and Obechie 6mm X 3mm laminated for stringers and chine lines. Transferring bulkheads/frames to the timber can be daunting, but several methods can be applied. Personally i prefer to Trace the outline and detail then pin prick the outlines onto the timber, you can do this direct from the plan, but using tracing paper or drafting film saves the drawing from disintegrating. Have used carbon paper in the past, but I did find this a bit messy, a personal choice.

Er slight Problem by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 9 days ago
Hi Dave I don't think I am that but we did a build blog and the pics are from that. Yes you do need to support the frames and keel and plank equally on each side and wait until the glue has dried before removing. No stringers needed as 1/4 ply frames screwed to the baseboard. Once planked the inside was fibreglassed and the outside covered in glass cloth so the structure was very light and robust for a 9' model. Hope you manage to get your hull made on the next attempt. Dave

Er slight Problem by Pav403 Commander   Posted: 9 days ago
Hello Dave, Thank you for the advice, have you written a book as you are the oracle :) I was using 4mm balsa for the walls but I think when applying I've not had the frames back in a solid / secure support? Lesson learnt now, the frame is staying in their secure mounts until I am satisfied it's not warping. One thing I did notice with you models of Titanic and Olympic was the lack of stringers, I take it the frames were thick enough and the Balsa thin you did not need any lateral support? Again thank you for your advice on this one. Regards Dave

Taycol Pt 3. New Brushes Pt1 by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 16 days ago
Hi Martin, yep I'm rather chuffed! 😊 Not so much noise or sparking as I remember 😁 Done some tests, all OFF LOAD at the moment of course. Current drain hovers around 250 to 300mA at any voltage up to 4V haven't gone any further yet, she stalls at around 0.5V, restart alone at 0.6V. she's chuntering along at 3V, stage 2, at the moment but shows no signs of distress. The beast just threw oil on to me goggles 😡 Stall current at higher voltages 0.95A. I'd set the PSU to limit at 2A, just in case! Have made video but have 'keine Lust' to go via You Tube!! I still intend to fit sintered bearings tho. Soon as your bits arrive. Ta much 👍 Only one snag: I've managed to lose one of the brass nuts securing the end frames 😭 Where the H--l do I get imperial brass nuts over here??? Cheers Doug 😎

MFA Torpedo 850 motor by sonar Admiral   Posted: 16 days ago
At long last I got there. These say they are For 540 dual motor or single motor So for an 850 torpedo it is a no go.. I think I will have to stick with these from

And now it is ESC time by sonar Admiral   Posted: 23 days ago
Hi These are the motors. Not much info on them. But they are large and I can also replace the brushes when required. Big motors and they work very well in big models I had the Action stuff dual ESC and melted the p94 still awaiting a return email response from them three days ago. In the meanwhile as you say two esc's are more than likely better. Two from Here They seem to have the stuff that I have reliably been informed will do the job. So a few weeks time And I will be able to see how they go..

Using old motors by Westquay Captain   Posted: 24 days ago
Doug, that looks lovely. I can't guarantee the performance would be anything but sedate with the Target, but that kind of boat in the real world would rarely be seen exceeding about 10 knots if that. It's essentially a river boat. I would be inclined to keep with the scheme it has as it's nicely period with the off white. Maybe line the deck with a Rotring a la period too and veneer the coach house sides. I certainly wouldn't strip it as there'll be joints and filler and boring old plywood underneath. No, paint is the Aerokits look for sure Delamination needs only epoxy, either the repair and build stuff or the liquid a la West, SP, etc.. slide a knife in the delamination and convince some epoxy in, then lightly clamp it twixt layers of greaseproof paper (when the GF's out) or plastic bag or similar. I use Plastikard, but I was given a box of lasered off cuts by Ivan at the Vintage Boat Company. He's now sold out to SLEC who are even nearer where I live! Anyway I have plasticard in three thicknesses to waste. If you stroke the surface with a scriber, it will make a weird hollow noise if delaminated. If it is, make a cut, persuade the edges up and insinuate some epoxy into the crack you've made. Ain't nuttn. you can't repair. You should have seen the window frames in my house when I sold it. A festival of epoxy, firewood and P38 car filler. Surveyor passed it with barely a look. Reallygood paint saved the day. Stupid waster! 400 quid Mr. Client, chching! As for the extra gizmos, I'd ditch them to save weight and complexity. You might find a 3 blade prop works better, but I'm no expert there. Finally instead of "this belongs to", I'd simply name her Jessica, in a nice script. I hope that helps. Cheers, Martin

The boat hooks. by robbob Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 25 days ago
I'm very flattered by your kind remarks, it's been quite an enjoyable process and I've learnt a lot about model boat building and quite a few new skills too. The boat is getting quite near to completion now, just a few more things on the list to do: The windows and frames, Kent clearview screen, anchor & mounting, mast & rigging, suction hoses, interior & exterior lighting and installing the propulsion and radio kit. Once all the heavy stuff is on board I will be able to get the all-up weight and put it in the test tank (bath) to see if she actually floats 😲!!. I'm hoping that it sits somewhere close to the waterline on the hull, might need some ballasting ?, won't really know until the maiden voyage. I hope you have been successful in finding a buyer for all your kit, I was really looking forward to seeing your build blog. Best wishes and get well soon. Rob.

"Vanity" leaves the building board by Westquay Captain   Posted: 25 days ago
Hi all, I have this afternoon released my model of the Victorian Class C Cutter, "Vanity", from her building board. First surprise was how light it is! I really can't believe how light. Being a plank-on-edge craft she is very deep draughted and with such a light weight she should be able to carry her ballast internally which is much the preferable way for me. Now the really hard stuff begins. Preparing the inside of the hull to take the strains of the various bits of standing rigging, somewhere to fix my patent dual sail winch and get the deck all levelled and cambered correctly. She had a very complex deck, with teak covering boards joggled round the bulwarks, which were simply extensions of her doubled oak frames, then narrow boards (on the model 3/16th") deck panks which follow the covering boards as all good yachts should, but unusually, Vanity did not have a King plank and so there is no joggling of the inner ends of the planks, but they must, of course, all meet perfectly. The deck furniture was also rather splendid as she had a roundhouse aft, glazed and several companionways and deck lights, plus the usual Samson post and bitts. Her tiller was a huge lump of mahogany about 6 feet long. The level of woodwork throughout was like this:- That's how she looked when I lived aboard her in Burnham-on-Crouch She was like this when sailing Cheers, Martin

Planking by davecox3 Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 28 days ago
Can anyone tell me the best way to plank a model tug I am building a wooden Anteo Tug done all the frames and fitted the first planks but need to know how to go from there any help would be most appreciated

Deck fittings, portholes and a door knob ! by robbob Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Now that the painting is finished I can start putting on some of the white metal deck fittings. I had previously cleaned these up with a file and wire wool and sprayed them all with etch primer, some were drilled to take threaded studs to fix them through the deck or as a reinforcement for epoxy glue fixing into the deck, and some pierced to take a short fixing pin. The chain pipe was drilled out to make it look more realistic. They were all brush painted with some Tamiya metallic acrylic paint, I chose ‘gun metal’ for this as I want to paint some other fittings and window frames with a metallic silver finish as a contrast. The portholes were painted with the same colour as the cabin sides and glazed with the perspex that was supplied with the kit, 'canopy glue' was used for this as I read that cyano glue would 'mist' the plastic. Another small detail I thought to add was a brass knob for the cabin door, this was hand turned from some brass rod and drilled out to take a 2mm threaded stud for fixing through the door. A nice little finishing detail I think, and I'm quite enjoying working with brass 😁

Big Blue by sonar Admiral   Posted: 2 months ago
A little bit more done I was given the life rafts / hatches /and doors. From a family member. But still a little more to do yet including the Shipping Containers and a few smaller items. Just have to now look about for some stuff to make them from. So far the total of the build is £ 11.00 including superglue. two packets x4 in a packet from the £1. Shop. Every thing else is recycled from home or the local tip. The tip mainly the paint A table leg and the fliptop bin That was the basis of the superstructure. The mast a piece of wire one wooden chopstick a small length of 6 mm doweling and 4 rubber clips that fit to the back of a woman's earrings. The cranes a small amount of Softwood timber that came as packing with a new tumble dryer plastic ladders and hand rails from a plastic washing up bottle Paint from the local tip large tin 3/4 full and two doors given to me. Hand rails and window frames a little rough looking but o.k cut out of an old plastic sold sign found right outside the house. Life rings old buttons filed and sanded. and so on. More to follow when I get a little more time...

How many is to Many by canabus Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi I have 3 working, 2 building, 2 restoration projects,1 maybe(I cutout the frames and keel) and plans of the Sea Queen, Sea Rover and would like to rebuild the Sea Hornet, but, 25% larger!! How many will never get built in the 64 dollar question!!!!!

RAF rttl D2763 by teejay Seaman   Posted: 3 months ago
HI members this is a request for help My father served on RAF RTTL D2763 in the 1950s as a wireless operator , there were only five of these boat built in Germany (D prefix on boat number) and there parent station was RAF Sylt although this boat was operated from an town called list. I have searched for some time to find drawings and plans to build a scale model of this boat and found very little . can any one help thank you all for the terrific responses hare is the information I have from craft were built in Germany at the Krogerwerft Yard at Rendsburg. Their "D" prefix brought about their nickname - 'D'-Boats. They had mixed RAF and German civilian crews, with three of the four Deckhands and one of the two Mechanics being German (and sometimes the Coxswain), the Skipper along with one Deckhand, two Fitters, the remaining Mechanic and W/Op were all RAF. Operating from the island of Sylt off Denmark, D2762 and D2765 worked out of Hornum, D2763 and D2764 from List, with D2766 acting as relief boat to cover for any boat out of service. The numbering sequence accounts for the missing boat numbers in the RTTL Mk.2 fleet. With a length to beam ratio of 7:1, their sleek design was very different to any other boats in the Branch, more akin to the Wartime 'E' Boat, with flared bows and rounded bilges and powered by high speed diesels. Their construction also differed with double skin mahogany shell planking, (outer layer laid horizontal, with a diagonal inner layer) bolted to welded steel skeletal frames and keel. Decks were steel with a timber sheathed foredeck. Superstructures were fabicated from steel using snap-head rivets. The hull was subdivided into six watertight compartments, a Forepeak, Crews Fo'csle, Skippers accomodation, Engine room, Sickbay and Galley and finally the after-Tank Space and Tiller Flat. The outfit and finish of these craft was of a very high standard, making them well liked by their Marine Branch crews. They were all initially fitted with winches for Target Towing, these were subsequently removed as the boats duties were confined to Range Safety and ASR work well out into the North Sea. Their duty roster was one day at sea, one day on standby in harbour and the third day off duty. The Ranges covered a large area extending seawards from the island of Sylt. Five 7th Class buoys were laid for use as foul weather moorings, three outside List harbour, one off Ellenbrogan at the Northern tip of the island and the Southern one near Hornum Odde lighthouse. The craft had relatively short lives with the RAF, with all five being disposed of by 1961. D2762 and D2764 were sold to private owners in 1960, and the other were handed over to the Federal German Navy in 1961. They were subsequently used as ASR craft.

Vosper Crash tender by bluestreak505 Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 4 months ago
[Score: 8/10] 37" Vosper Crash tender Capable of 8mph and a runtime of 40mins Twin Propellors (2 Blade S Type 40mm) Direct Drive to a 540 X 2 (2 Blade S Type) Powered by NiCad (7.2v) 3Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through mtronics 30amp x2 ESC - Comments: Built from a plastic hull, with light ply superstructure which is totally removable for access to batteries and motors.window frames cut from plastic self adhesive sheet. Nav lights and search light operated from transmitter.