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>> Home > Tags > frames

frames
frames
Cheap motor for a quick fit, but what prop gents?... by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 hours ago
Bon appetites, mon Braves. I have stopped doing Vincent heads (my neck feels like it'll break) and started looking for stuff. The Supermarine is, I hope to hopes, in the loft. But, whilst looking for the drill motor, I found the speed 400 from the electric Ugly Stik aeroplane. I'm wondering if that will power the Sea Hornet. Not sure what voltage they run at, so I'm orff to check that out. Also found the Hornet II model I carved in the hope I could get it scanned and sections (i.e. frames) made. 2 down, 2 to go! Fingers crossed. Cheers, Martin

20th Scale ELCO 80ft PT boat part 4 by CB90 Admiral   Posted: 10 days ago
Finished gluing in stringers a total of 8 in all, started profiling stringers and rudder and stern tube (prop shaft ) supports. An important piece of advice from my Dad is to "make sure every thing is fair to the eye." Meaning it must look straight or the curves must flow, no kinks or unsightly lines. Thus some of my frames had to be adjusted by perhaps padding out or moving the position of the stringer in the frame. Added gluing supports around the bulkheads and other frames this is to support the 0.7mm ply joints until I get to the Bow when I intend to use small strips of ply or wood.

Making and Fitting tinted windows by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 14 days ago
This was actually done back in April, somehow it ended up in another thread and I forgot to put it here!🤓 After spraying the cabin white I used the windows 'oles to mark templates for the windows. Which I then transferred to 3mm tinted perspex / acrylglass and cut out on the table scroll saw. Despite careful marking and cutting still had to fiddle about with filing to get 'em to fit right 😡 Pics 1 to 3 show fitted windows still with protective film. Pics 4 to 6 film removed but still to be polished. 7th pic; Les pièces, 8th pic; ze glue 😉 I chose 3mm 'glass' a) to match the 3mm ply of the cabin walls - makes it easier to get a flush fit, b) could get it in green tint 😊 Think there was also grey and red !!!! Red for a 'Fun' Boat perhaps 😲 Glue used; Deluxe Materials Canopy Glue; "Thick, flexible glue. High grip. Dries clear. Fills gaps." Here endeth the advert😉 Last pic shows final result after polishing. Maybe sometime, when I haven't got more interesting things to solve and build, I'll make some alu or mahogany frames! 😉 Happy glazing folks😁 Cheers, Doug 😎

Robbe Smaragd by East-RN Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 20 days ago
On the original kit, there were no portholes or windows. It was all done by transfers. Grey pieces of paper, slid onto the cabin sides. I cut the holes to the shape of the transfers. Then I planked the sides around the window frames, from deck to roof. Then I used some old cd cases, to cut and shape the window glass. It worked quit well. 👍

20th Scale ELCO 80ft PT boat part 1 by CB90 Admiral   Posted: 23 days ago
I hope to be able to mix two method of skinning the boat sheet ply on aft as the aft frames (6-12) have minimal curvature and diagonal planking on the bow frames (1-6).

Vickers Vedette 1/96 scale by f4u7 Seaman   Posted: 24 days ago
Scratch built from a 1975 free plan, hull is balsa frames sheeted with basswood and covered with 3/4 oz fibreglass cloth, superstructure is styrene sheet, missile launcher from balsa block, forward bofors torpedo launcher from styrene sheet and wood down, photo etch ladders, white metal handrail stanchions, other fittings are brass and resin, lw-02 radar and directors are from shape ways rudders and stabilizers are balsa block, you get the idea.

20th Scale ELCO 80ft PT boat part 2 by CB90 Admiral   Posted: 24 days ago
Finish of frame cutting, some left as solid bulkheads. Added frames to base board Cut extra patterns for bow shape both side and deck profiles (minus 6mm stringers) transom set at 12 degrees.

Brooklyn Pilot House! by figtree7nts Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 27 days ago
The Brooklyn's pilot house is made of clear plastic. That's got groves indentations and so forth! You have to tape up the windows. before you paint them! Then you have to paint the window frames. after you paint the pilot house! I used spray paint for the pilot house. So, I have to be patient and accurate! I should be done by this Sunday! If not OK Monday or even Tuesday!

Skylight by Jerry Todd Captain   Posted: 28 days ago
Made the framed glass portion of the skylight. They're hinged so I can get a finger inside to flip the power switch on or off. They're made from clear plastic from some packaging, basswood, and brass wire.

20th Scale ELCO 80ft PT boat part 1 by CB90 Admiral   Posted: 28 days ago
Just starting a scratch build of a 20th Scale ELCO 80ft PT boat most likely PT 109 at just over 48ins long and a beam just over 12in. Will try to construct with a combination of chine and planking construction (planking towards the bow) still need to finish of frames

Fire Hydrants in place! by figtree7nts Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 30 days ago
Evening Doug, No sir no periscope! Just been really lazy about painting the window frames. I think it'll take me about a week or so to tape and paint each individual window frame.😲 Oh, each window is taped. so for now might have to put a periscope!😜

Cabin roofs by mturpin013 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Theoretically this should be a very straight forward process and a change from rubbing down the hull so let’s look at the instructions – what instructions! First of all fit some thin card to the sides of the cabin walls to allow for a clearance fit (cornflakes packet) then some minor trimming of the spars to give an exact ,(not tight) fit across the side supports, I decided to pin each of the parts together as well as epoxy in the joints. I always find the best approach is to use a jig to drill pilot holes for the pins ensuring that the pins do not split the wood and the construction is accurate. The frame is then glued up and placed back in the boat and left to dry next job is to fit the corner strengthening pieces, the easiest way I found was to put a card support for the corners to rest on whilst they set still in the cabin structure. Looking forward I had decided to retain the cabin lids with Neodymium magnets so I machined a slot in the corner pieces underside to house the magnets, to be fitted at a later date. Next job is to fit the roof skins which again will be pinned using the 0.7mm brass pins. The roof skins are now epoxied in place so I need to mark out the position of the secondary panels. Looking at the pieces and the instructions the spacer frames seem to be the same size but I was sure I’d read somewhere that these overhung by 2-3mm, reading Robs blog conformed this to be the case. So some trimming required before fitting and marking out the appropriate position then being glued into position. The mid cabin was assembled in exactly the same way

Windows, stoopid question. by Jimbo Petty Officer   Posted: 1 month ago
Well back to the windeys,thanks for the info on windey fitting,been wondering meself how best to glaze em.now I iknow. Never tried it but my mate says he makes his frames from>> model railway lines the flexy type>> glued round the glazing and poped in the hole,anyone else done it this way ? Jim

Windows, stoopid question. by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Evenin' Martin, Beat ya 2 it! just made the ally jaw covers 😉 I do have smooth jaw vices (or vici !?) but they are only small machine vices. I use 'em mostly with the milling machine. Ta for the frame info (tilt type), must say I'm relieved, simplifies the sawing and fettling👍 I did the filing and fettling of my windows in the vice as well, with wood blocks between them and vice😉 except the last few irritating thou which I did freehand on the end of the bench. Ta for saw link as well. Looks like a more versatile fret saw, which I have but fixed length and I suppose the metal blades I have for it are probably too coarse for 1mm ally. Will probably order the set with 144 various blades. Funny, most of 'em seem to be made here in Germany but so far I can only find 'em on English sites!? Know what you mean about V block, will probably make one. My 'mechanical problem' now is cutting a 3x0.6 thread on the 3mm propshaft I made. First attempt bent the shaft 😡 Stupid die just doesn't want to bite, an' it's 'nigel nagel neu'. Hilfe! Nice frames and gutters 👍 Sorry about the car, hope it's not toooo expensive😲 Marky; Rasp? or raspberry ? Fruit is less painful 😁 Commodore; but is your 'raincoat' tinted and scratch-proof ?😁 Cheers All, Doug 😎 Nearly forgot; Martin can you please elucidate (yes it is legal😉) on the 'dummy screws with a sharpened tube'. Not quite with you yet on that! Glad you like the glue👍

Windows, stoopid question. by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Many thanks Martin, some good tips there 👍 Didn't quite get the dummy screws with a sharpened tube bit though? I'm only a dumb 'lecktrickerer' 😲 Thought I might use some short 0.5mm stainless steel planking pins. Wodja fink? Only thing is, I ain't got no piercing saw, and my vice jaws always leave marks. Guess I better make some ally jaws for it first 🤔 Got some 2.5mm ally I could use for that. Anyway, so I was thinking of using my mini milling machine to cut the frames. Can do the outer edge on the scroll saw😊 Got some decent 1mm ally from Conrad (or was it Krick?) Last question 😉 Should I put a vertical in the middle of the frames or just go round the edge? Cheers,Doug 😎 PS all my Swiss files got big 'oles😁 in 'em!