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>> Home > Tags > frames

frames
frames
yacht by basilsdad Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 11 days ago
[Score: 10/10] 26"/900g yacht Powered by NiMH (6v) 2Amp/h Batteries - Comments: totally scratch built from online plans, hull and frames 3mm hard balsa overed in the bosses tights, 4 coats of sand and seal, followed by 8 coats of yacht varnish, this has produced a rigid and very light hull. 3mm ply keel and home made 600gramm bulb, home made mast, mylar 45 micron sails goose neck and rudder.

fairey huntsman 31 1/6 scale by englishbiker Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 16 days ago
Got this boat about 3 weeks ago could not beleave the price i won it for £26.01 its 63 inchs long (5feet 3inchs)the guy that started to build it had passed away it had be in a damp shed for 3 or 4 years.The cabin top was half fitted and when i fitted it the cabin was twisted. All so the couriers had damage it around window frames,but i wanted to keep it as it was so repaired the damage and did not replace it.After lots of wet towels and wifes old micro wave a few swear words when i burnt myself i manage to untwist the cabin.A lot of you might not like the planking i have done but i wanted it to stand out.I used styrene over the repaired window frames so it would be easyer to paint them and to make them a little stronger.Cabin now planked a wood strip to fit between cabin top and deck to stop splashes getting into the hull.I have had 4 strokes so my brain works a little diffrent now and maths is one thing i have lost.If any one has a copy of fairey huntsman 31 1/6th scale to sell please let me know as it would help a great deal any spelling mistake i will say sorry for now here are so photos of where she is at now.I say she as i am going to call the boat LADY LUCY after the old boys daughter also going to put brass plate on with built by tom as he did build most of it and its a nice way to remember him

Crash Tender Shaft Tube Poistion by robbob Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 20 days ago
Hi Neilmc. You can buy ready made 'A' & 'P' frames from ModelBoatBits, great quality and not at all expensive. A 'P' frame epoxied into the keel would do the trick. http://www.modelboatbits.com/MAXIDRIVE-P-FRAME-4MM-1 Hope that's helpful. Robbob

ribs by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 28 days ago
Hi Looks like it all fits together nicely. You are going to provide fixed support for the keel to the baseboard? You may also need to provide support for each former to keep it all square whilst you plank and the glue dries. A marked centre line on the build board may prove helpful. We built the Olympic and Titanic using plank on frames but with the frame tops attached to the board. See attached pic. Good luck with the build, I am looking forward to following your progress Dave

Glazing help by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Mornin' Dave, many thanks for the Titanic info. Some good tips 👍 Haven't decided yet whether to make brass T section frames or flat wooden ones! Daft thing with my destroyer is that the portholes were fitted in the original balsa hull. Later I covered it in glass fibre for extra knock resistance so would have to do it all over again😡 The portholes were ~5mm diameter brass into which I had to glue tiny plastic discs. How to go bonkers in stages 🤔 However, I now have a Fleetscale H class hull which has moulded in plating and portholes so I only need to drill them out and fit glazing from within 😊 The old ones I will save for the new superstructure. Lighting will be general for some compartments not individual. The old original ship I think I will leave 'as is' as a momento of my standard of 50 years ago😉 Cheers Doug 😎 PS Water jet cutting is beyond my means but I have been toying with the idea of buying a stencil cutter. The better ones cope with up to 1mm or so. Should be enough for glazing sheet!

Glazing help by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Hi Glyn The frames you have should be fine. I mentioned painting as it is best done before the windows are fitted. Dave

Glazing help by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Hi Glynn, If you are sure it is stainless then no problem! Test a scrap piece by sticking it in water overnight, see if a thin rust film develops! Even then there is stainless and 'stainless'. If you are sure it is 18/8 then OK. If you bought the frames made up I would suspect they are light casting alloy which may well corrode and look 'orrible. 😡 Cheers Doug 😎

Glazing help by glyn44 Petty Officer   Posted: 1 month ago
Hi, Rolfman just google acetate sheet, and take your pick. Loads of of it out there. I use it for aircraft cockpit screens, 99% of which are curved. I have ordered some glue and glaze so will try it soon as. One thing I noticed from your posts is you mention painting the frames. I had no intention of doing that, I was going to leave them untouched, silver( I guess it's stainless) is this a no no.

Glazing help by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Hi Doug The Olympic and Titanic used 5mm and 3mm LEDs in the portholes - all illuminated. The cabins were glazed with overhead projector film, printed with the frame details then individually cut and stuck into each aperture. We had the cabin windows water jet cut so the were all the same size. I used Canopy Glue and the frames had all been acrylic spray painted. All were a close fit and stuck easily. I can appreciate your difficulty with the destroyer, I cheated with my HMS Grenville (1:96), and just cut small holes in the plating and added a dab of black paint to represent. Using the method I described with the frame on the face of the cabin leaves an aperture to glue the window into. A bead of glue will keep the window in place once dry. I find it dries quite clear and rubbery so with sufficient flat surfaces it works very well. Glue'nGlaze is tried and tested if you can get hold of some Dave

Glazing help by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Hi Gyn, Canopy Glue may not cut the mustard with metal frames. It's only specified for wood, plastics and painted or varnished surfaces. Glue 'n Glaze is also specified for metal. "Glue 'n' Glaze Model AD55 50ml For making crystal clear windows and bonding canopies and most plastics Bonds wood, plastic, metal, painted surfaces. For glazing windows up to 6mm. Use with micro-tips." Don't stick your fingers to the ship😡 Cheers Doug 😎 PS For my little tasks have just ordered Glue 'n Glaze from Krick, the German distributor for Deluxe Materials! So let's see how we go😉 To be continued - Tune in next week, same time, same channel, when 'Once again it's time to play .........'🤔

Glazing help by glyn44 Petty Officer   Posted: 1 month ago
I've got canopy glue, but sure if it stick metal( the frames ) to the plastic hull and the windows. I'll try it. Thanks for tips so far.

Glazing help by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Hi Dave, I can do it that way on the Sea Scout but not so easy from inside with Glyn's ship and lots of small windows in a cramped superstructure. 🤔 In his case I would paint the ship then paint the frames separately, glue in the 'glass', then glue the whole assembly into the ship. Like I did with the portholes on HMS Hotspur. Unfortunately Glue 'n Glaze & Co didn't exist then so some ended up 'steamed up' 🤔 Doug 😎

Glazing help by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Glue (epoxy, Cyano or MEK) the frames to the outside before you paint. This will leave a lip all round the inside of the window aperture. Paint, then apply the windows from the inside using canopy glue. Cheers Dave

Glazing help by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Hi Glyn, I am about to be faced with exactly the same problem with my Sea Scout renovation! After some cogitating (not painful if you do it slowly in an armchair with a decent single malt😉) I propose to make T section frames to fit the openings. Then glue the window into the frame and glue into the boat from the outside. There is a sort of super glue (Glue & Glaze?) that apparently does not show up white on the plastic window! Let us know how you get on.👍 Cheers Doug 😎

Glazing help by glyn44 Petty Officer   Posted: 1 month ago
I am trying to fit, well glue really, Perspex ports, with outer metal frames into my build. I'm having a real problem with it. Can some one give me the heads up on the tried and trusted method. Do I fit/glue the Perspex into the cabin and then fit and glue the outer frame on top, or glue the clear plastic into the frame and then fit into the hull. I've tried both, but always finish up with the thing falling out, or glue being visible, or both! There must be a trick of the trade that will make life easier, and make a better job than I seem to be capable of. It's the worst part of the build, for me, and it's putting me off assembling another model that has any windows! Advice greatly appreciated.