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>> Home > Tags > fuse

Main deck and cabin walls by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 days ago
Sorry the advertised Flash Gordon reel has gone 'walkies' so you'll have to make do with this boring description of how to occupy a day or three and stink out the house!😁 After the eventual success with the cabin roof I continued with the main deck using essentially the same process. First I had to extend the planking (engraving) from cabin leading edge back to the transom. Dad had only done the foredeck. Pic 1 shows starting point. AKA Square One! Pic 2 after initial staining, pseudo planking and sealing. Plank engraving was done with a fine hardened steel scriber / centre punch and a steel rule clamped at 7mm centres. Rule was aligned so that the wood grain pushed the scriber against it. Don't ask how I realised that that was the way to do it (minor Arrrgh!)😡 Anyway, worked out in the end. I had started with cherry wood stain but it came out too bright red so from Krick I obtained some Jotica mahogany stain (also some Oak stain for the decks of my Prince of Wales and Bismarck - but that's another pair of Sagas to be.) Using basically the same process as for the cabin roof: two sealing coats, two matt varnish primer coats, two gloss varnish coats, two protective lacquer coats, polishing with cutting polish and top gloss polish, and lots of patience and elbow grease (this time an Italian Lugana😉) pics 3 to 5 show the result. I'm 'appy with that 😊 Note: to remove build up of sanding residue from the 'planking caulking' I had to resort to an old toothbrush or nail-brush from time to time. The sponge couldn't hack it. The aft deck 'hatch' is still the temporary bodge-up I made 25 years ago to quickly get the boat going for my daughter. Think the ply (ca 4mm) came from the back of an old bureaux! Haven't decided yet whether to make the new one from the same mahogany as the roof or thin ply and stain like the main deck. Suggestions welcome please. After the deck time to turn my attention to the cabin walls, looking pretty shabby and full of over-spray - pic 6 😲 Step 0: masking off, pics 7 & 8 'All Dressed Up and Nowhere To Go'🤔 Step 1: mucho sanding starting with 180 grit and working through to 600 ensuring removal of all traces of blue as I wanted the final finish to be Arctic White (not Ice Blue!) Step 2: two sealing coats, flattening with 600 grit. Step 3: spraying with Revell white primer, not impressed, gave a rough dusty finish🤔 Step 4: sand off Revell muck, flat back with 1000 and 1500 grit sponges, respray with two coats of pro white primer, flattening with 1500 and 2000+ soap respectively. Much better 😊 like the proverbial baby's ...! Step 5: two coats of gloss white, same make as the primer!!!, flattening with 3000 grit sponge, wet + a drop of liquid soap. Step 6: two coats of protective lacquer as with the varnish. Flattening with 3000 and soap between coats only. Interesting effect with this lacquer and the paint (as opposed to the varnish); it seemed to 'melt and fuse' with the paint surface and smooth it out.😊 Just had to be careful not to apply too much at once in case it all ran down and took the paint with it! Step 7: finishing with cutting polish and anti-hologram polish. Results: pics 9 - 11. Final effect makes it look and feel like plastic or fibreglass, almost forgot that there is wood underneath😁 Next in this theatre "Hi Ho Silver Awaaaayyyy!" (Sponsored by KiOra!) or 'I'm gonna finish this hull if it kills me!' (sorry Flash reels got lost in the post😡) Cheers Doug 😎

Cabin detail Pt 1 by mturpin013 Captain   Posted: 7 days ago
It will be a working model and the power details are to follow. (don't want to give you too much at a time) the area between BH 3 and 4 will house the motor, ECS fuse box etc. I may detail the "Sick Bay" which is between B2 and B3 and batteries will be in the area BH 4 and 5 and of coarse the area that houses the hoses etc in the stern will be detailed.

New drive Train and Oiler by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 9 days ago
Most of this actually took place last August / July! Regular readers may have seen that when Dad built this boat in the 60s he put a Taycol Target field motor in it. About 25 years ago I put a Decaperm and 'modern' transistor ESC in her to provide forward and reverse. Performance was sedate to say the least. I have since modified the Taycol (see below) so it can be run forward and reverse and decided to put it in an ancient Billings Boats Danish fish cutter (Gina) that I inherited from an Aunt. The cutter is badly in need of renovation (see pic 1) and the Taycol will be more suited to her performance requirement! On advice from Canabus in Hobart I obtained a Propdrive 2830 1000kV brushless motor, appropriate ESC and a 35mm 3 blade prop from Raboesch. Pic 2 shows the old and new motors. Next step was to trial fit new motor mount, coupling and prop. Pics 3 &4. While doing this it became obvious that a new shaft was in order, as mentioned in last update. Soooo, - appropriate stainless steel rod, thrust washers and set ring were acquired and back to the workshop. After cutting to length to accommodate the new coupling type a 3mm thread was cut a the prop end. At the inboard end I milled recesses for the grub screws in the set ring and the coupling, pics 5 - 7. I don't like to just file(or even mill) flats for the screws cos they have a tendency to slip and work loose😡 Trial fitted the new shaft and found I'd boobed a bit with the measurements and need extra thrust washers to make up the difference. 😲 Pic 8. No sweat, they came in a pack of 50 anyway😊 You can also see in this pic that I decided to fit an oiler pipe while everything was in bits anyway.😉 To solder it on in a cramped space without setting the boat on fire 😡 I packed a wet rag underneath and used a gas Kitchen Torch! Known as a 'Gas Gourmet Burner'. Yep, those handy little gas torches like your Missus uses to melt the brown sugar on her Crème Brûlée!! So do I, delicious 😜😉 The torches are not expensive, small, very handy, refillable with lighter gas and can be adjusted to a very small hot flame. Ideal for this job. See pics 9 & 10. Pic 11 shows the new motor & mount, shaft and coupling all trial fitted after using a brass alignment tool I quickly made up on the lathe. Pic also shows the trial electrical installation after cleaning up the 'machinery compartment' a little and painting with silver Hammerite. A Quickrun BL ESC is sitting in the bottom in one of the trays my Dad originally fitted for the 2 wet cell (very wet!) 6V lead acid batteries. The home made board on the left carries the battery and ESC connectors, main ON/OFF switch with LED, blade fuse holder with a 20A fuse and a green LED which tells me if the fuse is blown! Stuck on the walls (OK Bulkheads!) with so called Servo Tape are a 6 ch Turnigy iA6 2.4Gig RX and the arming switch for the ESC. Battery compartment is sized to fit 2S and 3S hard case LiPos. For trials I can fit my Wattmeter forward of the switchboard and splice it into the battery supply using Tamiya connectors. Might change these to XT60s later if current drain is more than 12 to 15A. All for now, all this was pulled out again preparatory to cosmetics on the hull, decks, cabin roof and walls inside and out. But that's another chapter so, 'Tune in next week, same time same channel when once again it's time for 'WHAT DO YOU MEAN BUCK RODGERS IS APPROACHING!? 😁 Or 'The Saga of the Cabin Roof' 😉 Cheers Doug 😎 BTW: After drilling the shaft tube for the oiler pipe I flushed it out with light machine oil (pumped in from a big syringe) and shoved a few pipe cleaners through (rotating them on the way) to remove any remaining drill swarf!!

Graupner Elke HF 408 by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 28 days ago
Veeery interestink!😉 I always thought that a motor's power rating referred to it's useful power output, not what it scoffs when it is stalled 🤔 Sure 40 x 7.2 = 288W but your full ahead current and watts measurement says the supply voltage was approx 6V. Interestingly some history research tells me that the Elke was originally intended for and supplied with a direct drive 280 motor. Graupner still lists it as such, albeit as 'Sold out' 🤔 Several German build blogs on the net confirm this, although others have also tried different motors, including Decaperms. Kit reviews (mostly on German sites) also mention that she was 'pretty quick' with the 280 motor. Can well imagine, I have 2 x 285s in my 107cm U-25 and she goes like a bat out of hell. 😉 Allen; your result of 40W + and 6.77Amps tells me the motor was running on roughly 6V. (40/6.77=5.91) If you really had a 7.2V pack connected it's got a duff cell (collapsing under load or short circuit) 😲 Carefully strip the pack, isolate the duff cell using a digital voltmeter, cut it out and send it to the great recycling nirvana! Then you have a powerful RX battery😉 Glad to hear you fitted the fuse👍 Leave the rest alone for now and sail her and see. I believe you will be more than happy with the performance and since the ESC is over dimensioned it should have no problems. Happy sailing, Doug 😎

Graupner Elke HF 408 by AllenA Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 28 days ago
Hi Dave, Can't find the motor I have on the Mabuchi site. My guess it is quite old. I think it is a TD 224 that I picked up at a boot sale from a model plane enthusiast. So far I have run it on a 7.2v nimh so will change to 6v asap. I gave it full throttle in the bath and no sign of heat or fumes in battery, motor or esc. Thanks for the help. As you say a quick turn around the lake is in order. The fuse advised by Doug is now installed.

Graupner Elke HF 408 by AllenA Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 28 days ago
Agreed Doug. The Rookie forgot the fuse again.

Graupner Elke HF 408 by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 29 days ago
Hi Allen, so you were running off a 6V batt, results are about what I expected👍 Well done that man😉 You could go down to a 25mm prop. And don't forget to put a 10A fuse in the motor + supply wire to avoid frying the motor and or wiring if it stalls at sea!! 😉Have fun, Doug 😎 PS: snow's stopped, sun's out 😊 Still bl...y cold though😡

Too Powerful Brushless ? by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Hi Doug Brushless motors may be similar to AC motors in construction but they are powered by pulsed sequential DC so there is no AC involved. I do agree Watt metres are the best way to make sure the motor, battery and ESC max values are never exceeded. I agree the spec sheets are very useful but are specific to the type of motor and original supplier, and many are for companies no longer trading. I do sometimes have difficulty in interpreting some of the info supplied but the nominal working voltage, max power are usually OK. The stall current is useful to decide on the wire and fuse size as well as choosing a suitable ESC. At the end of the day if the set up is getting too hot you are probably working over the specs and if water cooling doesn't help you need to adjust the prop and / or battery voltage.

Richards 48" Swordsman by rmwall107 Lieutenant   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi I have finally put the boat on the water😁. i think it looks good and have uploaded three photos (sorry about the quality) the first shows the boat at rest (it had blown a fuse😭) the bow is slightly down, the second photo is the boat at full speed i think this is ok, the third is at about half throttle the boat seems flatter than at full speed. i remember a post earlier in this thread regarding putting the batteries further forward they are currently in the back. I think it is ok but do you think it is worth experimenting. Thanks Richard

Riva scratch built boat update by Alan999 Lieutenant   Posted: 2 months ago
Security at stansted refused to let me bring varnish on plane. Lucky I phoned them before going to airport

RC Catalina flying boat by pmdevlin Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Following on from previous posts in the fireboat and sunderland thread.... Ok Doug, like I said nice model for the bucks, I much prefer the grey scheme to my blue/yellow, but mine was a deal so went with it, its my second. The cat has a tendancy to tip stall at lower speeds, and will not recover, there are things you can do, these are the main ones, read that link on rc groups👍 If water flying, the floats are too low, they need raising as much as you can, prob an inch, and angling upwards, or they snag on the water. If your tx allows it, dial in rudder and aileron mix, it stops the tail dropping in turns, looks better, and helps prevent the tip stall get cog correct with battery placement, pretty easy to do do range check when rx is installed, the position you will have it (not much room in the fuse) can be blinded by the battery. I have a cheap orange stabilizer one in mine, it really really helps! both ailerons need a few mills upward attitude, this helps with the tip stalling, and landing, its something to do with creating washout, too technical for me😋 the lights you see on mine are hobbyking light set, apparently the v2 you have has better lights with a plug, detrium dont usually have these there is a design fault, the rear stabiliser has a small twist, some fix this, I didnt bother I could go on, but the link is a good read as it helps with hints how to fly now you need somewhere to fly it, its fine off grass sand and water, oh, check for waterleaks prior to flying, the step under the fuse is a weak spot, change the cheap metal pushrods for nylon or plastic when you can, they rust real easy, there are easy mods to stop the rods flexing, particularly on the elevator, I fitted a second rod so I have one either side of the elevator, and dial in rates, you dont need much throw with this big lazy bird👍

Brushless motors by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi Spitfire Glad to hear that you will be supporting the site's running costs. Stephen (Fireboat) runs this free site entirely on donations so every little bit helps. Doug has answered your question re wiring the brushless motor to the ESC. I would just add that you should not swop any wires whilst the battery is connected. I would also advise that you fit a fuse between the main battery and the ESCs. Brushless motors can draw very heavy currents when stalled or overloaded. A fuse rated just above your running current and no more than 50% of your ESC rating. I am assuming here that your wiring is capable of carrying this current? If you haven't got one I suggest you purchase a wattmeter so you can measure the current drawn under load (hold the boat in water and run at full wack). This must not be greater than the Motor or ESC rating. A smaller prop will reduce the current. Please keep us posted

Fusing confusion by wunwinglo Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 2 months ago
Thanks for yet more good advice, Dave M . I will try 20-25 amp fuses to start with. As it happens, there is the original ic water cooling system still in the hull, kept for realism but I could easily make it functional.

Fusing confusion by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi Doug Brushless melt when stalled if you are lucky. No fuse and high power battery usually results in the ESC also melting or a small fire that usually quickly spreads to the rest of the model. Not sure if I would go much above 25 amps on a 50 amp ESC, most are overated and will probably need watercooling at full capacity.

Fusing confusion by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi Charlie, don't mention it, glad to help. 45 years electrical & electronic engineering must be useful for something 😉 I'm also new to brushless and not sure yet how they behave when stalled. Must do some tests soon.🤔 Remember: fuses are essentially there to stop wiring bursting into flames and igniting the surroundings; house, boat, plane, model - whatever! So make sure ALL your wiring (including battery leads) is at least as thick as that on the ESC and motor! 👍 Good luck, and have fun, Doug 😎 PS I'm also single and nearly flooded the bathroom a while ago getting my 5 foot Graf Spee to float to check ballasting!! 😁