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>> Home > Tags > fuse

fuse
fuse
The other lot... by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 5 days ago
Nah, although it mentions my user name at the top, I can't hit a reply button as there ain't one and I can't even start a new thread to ask why I can't reply. If they wanted to keep me banned they should have refused to allow me in again. Sod 'em! Martin

Rudder Horns ect by deepdiver Commander   Posted: 10 days ago
Hi Well after some time thinking about making some new rudder horns (thinking = four beers) I have made them out of an old three pin plug I used the small fuse clip that the wire goes into, I have also used a mini servo and all seem's to work O.K, new motor mount made so that the motor's now line up, I also had to make a new rear deck and bulk head I will in time plank the rear deck, I have also started on making new rear deck housing. Fred

Spektrum, new, useless... by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 13 days ago
Hi Martin, You do like living dangerously don't you!? 😉 Why don't you ever buy anything from the same manufacturer to be sure it will work, or have the chance of regress if it don't! Anyway, since you've been an' gorn an' dunnit - Ignore the PPM, that just means Pulse Position Modulation. A type of TX modulation waveform that you don't need for the Spektrum TX. Forget the Stat as well. I suspect that that should be SAT for a Satellite RX. No that don't mean you can watch telly on it😉 It's just a connection for a secondary RX. Never ever seen one in action! The others are the usual aircraft / chopper functions in a particular TX Mode, so you can ignore the labels. We can use the channel outputs for whatever we want in a boat. Attached is a description of the binding I found in an RC flight forum. A little bit Chenglish but clear enough I think. Your Simprop 18A job should be more than man enough for your Supermarine. I don't expect that it will eat more than 10 or 12Amps. Put a 15A fuse in the + supply between motor and the mod board that makes it run ahead & astern; i.e. the + output of the bridge rectifier. That will protect the motor coil and brushes. Put another in the + from battery to ESC to protect the ESC and rectifier. Rectifier should be rated at least 20A peak forward current. 30A might be better in case your Supermarine is hungry! In that case use 20A fuses. 10A was enough for my little Target 😉 See attached pic for the mods to the Supermarine. Connections from the rectifier board to motor are- + and - of the rectifier go to the brush terminals. Of the two ~ (= AC) one goes the field coil. The other goes to the - wire from the ESC. + from the ESC goes to the other end of the field coil. If the motor runs wrong way (with respect to throttle stick) just reverse the brush wires as usual. Don't forget the suppression capacitors, you may not need 'em due to the spark suppression by the rectifier but ... JIC😉 Bon chance mon ami 👍 Cheers,Doug 😎

Spektrum, new, useless... by Haverlock Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 22 days ago
using off the shelf components some one has built a model boat that is crossing the Atlantic. https://www.fastcompany.com/3016592/a-student-built-autonomo... Think about this the next time the bloody thing refuses to do what you want ( a common occurrence among modellers )

Spektrum, new, useless... by stormin Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 23 days ago
Sorry Marin, that tx is undoubtably dsmX👌, so with that in mind I think your next step would be to.............count out aloud to three, then if your transmitter has still not bound with your receiver............beat the living daylights out of them both with a big stick😁. Seriously Martin I can't understand why you've had no success, all the forgoing advice has been spot on and correct. I did purchase an orange receiver recently off eBay that refused to bind, I simply returned it,at a cost of one pound postage and received a replacement the next day which worked fine.

H.M.S. BRAVE BORDERER by RHBaker Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 29 days ago
Decided to retry with the 2S battery and the original scale style propellers. Concluded that the speed is fine, especially in the windy conditions encountered and in a small pool that limited acceleration. The model had a very flat plane, must adjust the transom flap angle to see what effect that has. The forefoot did not rise much from the water surface. Was frustrated by the “stutter” referred to in the last blog, noticed this occurred on the two out shafts only and when the starboard was operated after the port was running. Swopped the starboard motor over with the centre one to see what effect it would have. As started to remove the motor noted that a connector was not tight and that the screw had corroded. Exchanged motors, removed all connectors then cleaned and refitted using a water resistant lubricant. The stutter seemed cured. Another lesson learnt, when dealing with these high currents every connection is tested and all defects exposed. The opportunity to retest using a 3S battery arose so installed it, all worked fine on the bank. Put the model in the water and a major short occurred. 2 fuses blew and about 6” of wiring melted and burnt through the insulation. At least there was no hull damage! Did an inquest and, apart from the damage described, also found the starboard ESC and motor had failed. These were the ones where the “stutter” originated, but cannot see any correlation between the two problems. Discussed the model with some of fellow scale modelers and concluded that the 4500kV motors are unsuitable for the scale propellers used. Every suggestion points toward motors in the 1 – 2000kV range. As now needed to obtain a new motor and ESC, decided to reequip both outer shafts with 2000kv motors and water cooled ESCs. Felt modifying these outer shafts would allow assessment of this new drivetrain combination, could then decide what approach to take with the centre shaft. Due to the mounting and driveshaft arrangement, the choice of motors was restricted to 28mm O/D with a 1/8” shaft size. Unfortunately, suitable items are on back-order from Hong Kong, so there will be no further updates for a while.

Warped wood by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 29 days ago
My pleasure Martin, Thanks! Praise indeed from an 'old pro' 😊😁 I hope Dad wasn't to busy with the angels (or Vestal Virgins😲) and had time to look down and check what his 'little boy' was up to 😁 Yep the meter could help when checking the connections PRIOR to applying any power. More so if you use individual diodes. Easier is if you use a Bridge Rectifier (like I did😉) which already has 4 diodes in one encapsulated block, clearly marked with the AC ~ inputs and the + and - outputs. That's the black block in the middle of my test board in attached pic. For your Taycols get one that is rated for 10 or 15 Amps. Use 10A fuses to protect the motor coils and a 15A fuse in the battery supply to protect the ESC and rectifier.👍 I will probably put this board and the Taycol Target in the Danish Fish Cutter I am currently renovating - parallel to the PTB! Need to start two more Blogs! Glutton for punishment 😁 Cheers, Doug 😎 PS 2nd pic is the one I now use for my PC monitor background pic😊

LED Tug Mast Navigation Lights by onetenor Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Well done sorting that out.Just to clear one point ref fusible bulbs. They are used in Chrimbo tree lights are clear and have a white painted tip. It's not a fuse that lights but a bulb that is fusible.Odd but it works. I used to buy a pack of 4 at a time from Woolies. They weren't all the same either.It could take ages to read the packages to find the right ones. I ended up with loads of different ones It was the go to bulb if the lights failed.🤓👍

LED Tug Mast Navigation Lights by pittsfieldpete Lieutenant   Posted: 1 month ago
Pete piping in here. No, the bulb in my tug is crystal clear overall. Plus, it lights up when a button on the transmitter is pressed. Would a “fuse” do that? I wonder if it’s a carryover from an older pre-LED design or possibly something to do with acting as a resistor for the various LEDs on the pilot house? But that’s strictly a guess on my part. My experience with & understanding of LEDs & how they’re used properly is very, very limited. Pete

LED Tug Mast Navigation Lights by onetenor Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Doug that pilot house light could be a fusible link. Has it got a white painted tip? If so it is fusible for sure. If not it is a" could be" fuse. Trouble is you can't test it LOL😁👍 You could;if you can find one,fit a resetting led fuse.🤓 John /O/T

What Li-po? by Yngvegr Seaman   Posted: 1 month ago
Thanks a lot Flack RNinMunich and Tica! I tried to read me up on Li-pos, but was even more confused... Your answers is just what I needed! 👍👍👍

17-28 Torbay Severn Lifeboat by pugwash1 Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 1 month ago
Thanks for your post. I am an ex-pat from Manchester , now in Delaware, I have always been impressed with my hero's in the NRLI, I am quite impressed with your model. the video looked like a full size life boat in some of the scenes, Thanks for sharing. I have a quick question that anyone can answer: I am a bit confused regarding motors what is the correct use in ship modeling? are they faster, quieter, or what? does any one out there knows of a net site that compares the brushless versus the standard motors. one last Q, should this question be posted elsewhere on the M.B.W site? Thank you for reading and a special thanks for whoever is going to answer!!!😁

H.M.S BRAVE BORDERER by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Evenin' Rowen, So far so good, nice job👍 Let me go through your comments one by one😉 1) "Moved the battery towards the stern and, at speed, the forefoot lifts slightly clear of the water. The plane is now almost flat. The battery is not well positioned when near the bow." Battery in the bow is almost always bad news🤔 too much weight forward of the CoG or natural balance point when planing. 2) "The 2S battery used was a 4000mAh 30C; suspect this battery does not have the capacity to operate the model. Every motor will run up smoothly until a second one is operated. The first motor then “stutters” and a fuse might blow, this could be indicative of a power surge. Any comments from the electronic experts among the group would be appreciated." First the battery: you may be right. Especially with 3 x4500 kV motors Since you are using 3 ESCs how about feeding each one from a slightly smaller (lower weight) battery? Precondition of course is that all three are equally charged to the same voltage and capacity AND have the same (or very very similar) internal resistance! Complicates the issue of course and motors with a lower kV rating and one power source may well be the better solution😉 Second the 'stutter': How and when did you switch in the second motor? If the first was still at 'Full Ahead', i.e. 'Pedal to the metal!, I might expect the battery voltage to dip and then recover with the sudden additional load and a sharp rise in total current drawn. But no particular excuse for a sudden current rise in the first motor ! Where was the fuse that blew? I suspect in the primary supply lead from the single battery🤓 since with brushless motors you can't fit individual fuse in their supply leads like you can with a brushed motor. BUT you can to the ESCs feeding them!!! You can't get a power surge from a battery, not like a surge on the mains network due to lightning etc! But you can get a voltage dip and recovery if you suddenly present it with an additional load😲 3) "The 3S battery was 10,500mAh and 40C; with this battery all three motors can be run at full speed together and fuses do not blow. It was also very heavy at 1700g, holding the model down." All run up together to full speed or 'switched in' as described above? There's a big difference between a gradual increasing of load on a power source and a sudden step increase! 4) "The motors are 4500 kV. On refection, think a slower motor around, perhaps 2000 kV would have been a better choice." I did think at the outset that 3 x 4500kV was perhaps a little ambitious😲 2000 - 2500 sounds much better, and more controllable👍 Then you could also get good performance results with a single battery of capacity lower and weight 👍 The function of the third (centre) motor for 'action speed' would also be more pronounced👍 5) "Would concur with comments by others that a simple single or two bladed propeller layout for this model is probably best - that is unless you want to capture the true scale layout. The centre propeller seems to have little effect on overall performance, (see above re 4500kV motors- Doug😉) although it will power the model quite nicely when operating by itself. Have had several suggestions about how best to use the centre propeller. Will think about them and decide later how to do this when I start to finish the model." As a 'Scale Purist' (as far as my skills and tools allow!) personally I would frown on the use of 2 blade props, much less only a single prop. Do that in a fictitious power boat if you will, but for 'Brave Borderer' ? 😡 Do her justice please😉 Many three screw (😲) boats (including the full size originals of this era) only used the third motor for additional manoeuvring speed in action situations. My personal experience of FACs (Fast Attack Craft) and FPBs (Fast Patrol Boats) over the last three decades shows me that the three screw configuration has been largely dropped, especially since the introduction of much more powerful engines such as improved diesels and gas turbines. Many use a combination of diesel, for cruising, and gas turbine for 'action speed', so called CODAG, COmbined Diesel And Gas turbine. 6) "The 2 blade Hi – speed propellers both increased performance and current draw. The model is more than fast enough with the original scale layout." As I believe the 2 blade props were of larger diameter (and perhaps also of larger pitch) than the 3 bladers the higher current draw is a logical conclusion! Stick with the scale config! 👍👍👍 7) "Will purchase a lighter, 3 S battery as that seems the best choice for performance and weight." 👍 but don't overdo it to the other extreme by reducing weight and therefore capacity too much😲 You want a decent sailing time don't you? 8) "Testing using the bare hull with a minimum of detail worked well. For a models with a complex power train, this is a good approach as access to the internals can be gained easily. Nothing worse that finishing a boat carefully just to find the performance disappointing. Then having to to rip it apart to make major modifications or adjustments!" Heartily agree 👍👍👍 Bon chance mon ami😊

H.M.S BRAVE BORDERER by RHBaker Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Now the spray has settled have assessed these first tests; have also reviewed various pictures and U Tube videos of the Brave and Pekasas in operation. The actual vessels look to plane rather like mine, whilst some model bows lift up until a significant length of keel is exposed. Anyway, have been able to draw some conclusions: 1) Moved the battery towards the stern and, at speed, the forefoot lifts slightly clear of the water. The plane is now almost flat. The battery is not well positioned when near the bow. 2) The 2S battery used was a 4000mAh 30C; suspect this battery does not have the capacity to operate the model. Every motor will run up smoothly until a second one is operated. The first motor then “stutters” and a fuse might blow, this could be indicative of a power surge. Any comments from the electronic experts among the group would be appreciated. 3) The 3S battery was 10,500mAh and 40C; with this battery all three motors can be run at full speed together and fuses do not blow. It was also very heavy at 1700g, holding the model down. 4) The motors are 4500 kV. On refection, think a slower motor around, perhaps 2000 kV would have been a better choice. 5) Would concur with comments by others that a simple single or two bladed propeller layout for this model is probably best - that is unless you want to capture the true scale layout. The centre propeller seems to have little effect on overall performance, although it will power the model quite nicely when operating by itself. Have had several suggestions about how best to use the centre propeller. Will think about them and decide later how to do this when I start to finish the model. 6) The 2 blade Hi – speed propellers both increased performance and current draw. The model is more than fast enough with the original scale layout. 7) Will purchase a lighter, 3 S battery as that seems the best choice for performance and weight. 8) Testing using the bare hull with a minimum of detail worked well. For a models with a complex power train, this is a good approach as access to the internals can be gained easily. Nothing worse that finishing a boat carefully just to find the performance disappointing. Then having to to rip it apart to make major modifications or adjustments!

H.M.S BRAVE BORDERER by RHBaker Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
itted 2 x two bladed 35 mm “hi-speed” propellers to the outer shafts only as these are the easiest to change. Can also use the centre shaft measurements as a check of the previous figures as it is unchanged. With these propellers the current draw and bollard pull both increased. Subjectively, think she was also slightly faster, but the speed exceeds scale speed anyway. The increased load on one of the 2 bladed props wiped the blades off and several 30 A fuses on various motor circuits blew. Originally, the battery was fitted as far forward as possible to hold the bow down – some thing it seems to have achieved! Decided to remove the forward battery location frame and replace it with one which will allow the battery to be positioned anywhere between the bow and the centre of the model. The battery can now be located where the best plane is achieved. Once the correct battery is fitted the final location will be determined. This frame movement will also allow adjustments for any weight gained during final finishing. Whilst the idea of using a load cell and ammeter/wattmeter to measure bollard pull and motors loads sounds logical, it is fraught with challenges. The vessel both bucks and the readings fluctuate wildly under load making getting steady, consistent results difficult. Off now to cogitate over the results and decide a path forward.