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>> Home > Tags > fuse

Twin Esc/Mixer by jarvo Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 9 days ago
NJP. you can use the mini blade fuses, no problem, the difference is price, standard fuses are about half the price if mini's. Apart from your mounted fuse holders, why not just use crimp spade connectors??? get the right size for the blades no need for a holder or mounting Mark

Twin Esc/Mixer by tomarack Commander   Posted: 9 days ago
Hi, in my model I have flat fuses used in cars. For this case, it is possible to select different sockets in a specialized store, and replacement of fuses is simple. Tom

Twin Esc/Mixer by NPJ Captain   Posted: 9 days ago
Somewhere RN Doug referred to fuse ratings and I bought more. having found they are hard to change Mark told me about the tool that is used. In the buying of these things and looking for more space on board, I noticed 'mini blade fuses' are available. Why are we not using these.......................? NPJ

japanese crew figuers by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 10 days ago
Hi nutrunner, you could try repainting these Delivery men! They are 1:43. There are other 1:43 and 1:48 / 50 figures on this site as well. The Japanese are 'little people' anyway. Not to be confused with the Leprechauns! 😉 Cheers Doug

Ebay Horrors by bilzin Lieutenant   Posted: 11 days ago
I saw an ad on Ebay listing a now discontinued Graupner kit of the Leanne Tön 12 shrimper and thought as it was no longer available I'd give it a try............mistake number one ! WHEN it finally arrived the box (water damaged) contained what the president of our model boat club described as 'a bag of bits' with about 40% of the parts missing and those that weren't were damaged in some way ie water damaged and warped. To cut a long story short, the seller was quite rude when I contacted him/her and refused point blank to refund my payment or accept a return. Furthermore I was accused of not sending true photographs of the contents of the package and denying other potential buyers the opportunity of bidding on this item. Finally, Ebay have considered this case and have ruled that not only is the item not as it was described , but that a refund must be made including the original postage fee. I realise that many unscrupulous sellers are of the mistaken belief that "NO RETURNS ACCEPTED" in their listing means just that, and that any old tat can be auctioned, but unfortunately for this seller that is not the case. I sincerely hope that this person has learnt the lesson that is not wise to attempt to " bullshit a bullshitter!" Lesson over !

Power Cabling by NPJ Captain   Posted: 12 days ago
Thanks for that Mark. Fuses new and clean looking. I will check car during daylight tomorrow. All the best. NPJ

Power Cabling by jarvo Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 12 days ago
NP, have a careful look inside the fuse holder, check to see if the contacts have corroded or been burnt, also look at the fuse blades they should be shiny and scraped after removal, possible they are just tight, if you look in your car fuse box you should find a little removal tool that clips around the fuse to remove it. Mark

Power Cabling by NPJ Captain   Posted: 12 days ago
RN and others .............I have changed the fuse to 20 yellow for the battery and found it difficult! Are all the spade fuse holders as tight as mine? It took considerable force to remove the fuse from the holder and I wonder whether that is normal. I understand that looseness is not good but the force needed seems excessive and a threat to the circuit board etc. NPJ

Power Cabling by NPJ Captain   Posted: 16 days ago
More fuses because I think I only had the one colour...... I understand what you are saying with regard to the positioning. May need a rethink in the layout. NPJ

Power Cabling by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 16 days ago
Hi Neil, How many fuses do you need??? Remember, wherever you put them you need easy access to be able to change a dud fuse without taking the million screws out and removing the whole deck.🤔 I'm considering using the space next to the repositioned battery, just behind the port propshaft hull exit. Another consideration is on your mounting plate forward, but NOT at the edges as you show in your photo cos you'll never get at them when the deck is on 😉 I'm thinking of a 'bridge' across the middle (above where you have the receiver in your photo) so that the fuses protrude above the main deck. Then you can get at 'em easy 😉 I will also save space by using a UBEC to tap off the drive batt for the RX supply instead of a separate RX battery. Pics tomorrow - I hope! Cheers Doug 😎

Power Cabling by NPJ Captain   Posted: 16 days ago
Thank you both. I am away at the moment and will do a bit more later this week. RN I have bought some more fuses on this trip. I feel I am going to struggle for space. .... NPJ

Power Cabling by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 17 days ago
Hi Neil, So far so good👍 I assume that the third fuse is for the battery lead. If so it should be 20A not 10, as you have 2 x 10A ESCs for the motors. Then if only one motor stalls and the fuse blows you can come home on the second motor. If the battery fuse is also 10A and blows as well then you're 'dead in the water' 😲 Cheers Doug 😎

Paper plans by Skydive130 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 17 days ago
I buy lots of plans for aircraft and boats from either eBay or Sarik etc. Most of the plans I’ve bought from eBay have been photocopies and folded on arrival. I iron my plans carefully and also store rolled in a tube. One thing to note, a photocopy especially on larger sheets of paper can be a fraction bigger than the original it’s been copied from! I tend to use plans as a reference and transfer straight lines to large paper especially if building on the plans direct, this is possibly essential when building wings and fuselages over the plans and I have also done it with boats, as recent as the veron Vosper RTTL I’m currently building from eBay plans (copies!)

Power Cabling by NPJ Captain   Posted: 18 days ago
So following a long away week-end of Astronomy, now trying to get a bit further before going away for a couple of days. As I start to wire up the power circuit I realise how important it is to think things through first! Made up the link from the Battery to a ‘choc block’ distribution point which for space reasons is under the ‘control’ platform which will fill the bow area. (Pic 1) The fuse boards were obtained from Component – Ltd in Bangor which is a good source of all sorts of electrical bits for us and is in Wales! (Pic2) The Dual Esc/Mixer, from the same place, a P94 9Lite), I have secured with Velcro (Pic 3) and I hope to keep the battery on top of this with a little air gap. It is at this point that I really came to appreciate the space limitations (Pic 4) and I do not have the motors wired in yet which will have fuse boards on the ‘platform’. (Pic 5). Next time hope to wire in Motors and Fuse Boards, Sound Generator and Receiver. Then see how it sits in the bath.....! NPJ

Motor problem by RichardSReade Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 1 month ago
further to my previous post, I have now fitted the two NiMH Batteries (not nicad as I kept saying)in the rear compartment, held in with Velcro, and tidied the wires up and fitted an inline fuse, yet to be wired, the boat is much lighter, however all the other Velcro is still in place so I can move them forward if needed and fit the lead or Lead acid battery, so one visit to a pond and hopefully I can get it sailing correctly, my problem is I would not know what is correct and what is not, at least I have Pauls video as a reference.