All donations are securely managed through PayPal. Amounts donated are not published online.
Many thanks for your kind support.
Model Boats Website Team
March 2018: 9 people February 2018: 8 people January 2018: 25 people December 2017: 7 people November 2017: 13 people October 2017: 9 people September 2017: 15 people August 2017: 10 people July 2017: 4 people
Hi MB, Sorry for late response, I've been occupied with varnishing and painting of my Sea Scout renovation. The Turnigy i6 and Flysky FS-6 are hardware identical but have slightly different software, not critical I understand. I have the German branded version of the Turnigy i6, called here HT-6. Attached is the excellent German / English User / Programming manual without the Chenglish gobbledygook! Flysky Chenglish manual also attached for comparison. Only mistake I found in the manual is re Binding (see pic); they mention Binding button on the RX when it is on the TX at bottom left Item 13 in the attached pic of my German branded Reely version. BTW; iA6 is the RX type number. The TX is TGY-I6 or FS-6 for Flysky. Pics 4 & 5 show my Reely HT-6 and Turnigy TGY-I6 versions. Identical except for labelling, same goes for the Flysky - see manual. Re: Servos: I have tested my TX and an iA-6 RX with all sorts of servos; Sanwa, Futaba, Hitec amongst others some going back 30 years and they all work fine. I currently have an iA-6 RX and ancient Hitec standard rudder servo in my Sea Scout and it works just fine. Re: controlling the ESC; it just plugs into the RX like a servo. Usually channel 1 or 3 depending on whether you want throttle on the right or left stick respectively. Re: 3D printed stuff 'brittle or not'; depends on what type of filament they use for the print so can't really say. Up to now have not had problems. What I have noticed with some 3D plastic and resin items is surface defects, pits etc, which need some treatment before fitting. Resin also tends to be more brittle than 3D plastic prints. Resin don't bend well and don't like knocks! As I discovered with the resin gun barrels on my Graf Spee 😡 Will be replaced shortly with turned brass or Alu! Re: LiPos; attached is a file from Model Boats mag of Hints and Tips for using LiPos. It also explains the tech jargon surrounding brushless motors, i.e. interpreting model numbers and parameters😉 All for now, cheers Doug 😎
Hi MouldBuilder As for radios they are the same, go for the Flysky. As for servos I think Futaba ones will work, but, the price of these from Hobbyking are cheap. The good balance will have auto cutout, but, check out club members to see what they use or model car clubs. The 1100kv has power to drive the boat. The kv rating is the base and multi by the voltage to get unloaded revs. 1100 x 11.1 volts(3s) 12210 and 4S(14-8volts) 16480rpm. Canabus
Thanks Canabus. I have just checked out the transmitter/receiver sets. Very reasonably priced. I really do want to upgrade. The Turnigy is around £40 whilst the Flysky is around £34. Do you have a preference?😊 Would my Futaba servos still work or would I need to change these also. I know this might be a strange question, but as you can see from one of my pictures above, I have a servo operating the speed controller. How do you control an electronic speed controller with the radio. As for the battery, is the safety bag used to put the battery in for charging in case it catches fire? I am a little wary about using things that I may not have control over. I have been looking at brushless motors. Can you say a kv range I should be looking for to possibly increase the speed issue. You have mentioned 1100kv and others above but was just wondering what you would cosider to be sensible bearing in mind only one motor is practical witout major hull surgery. Can I assume that if a motor is given a kv rating that all motors are based on the same criteria, or are there other variables. Thanks. 👍
HI Mate, welcome to Mayhem, just a thought, I to prefer a period transmitter with my older models, I have a Macgregor trany which our club guru converted to 2.4gh with a Futaba module, works brilliantly, best of both worlds Mark
Just about finished and soon to feel the water 'neath it's keel Note the Futaba FG7 transmitter now converted to 2.4 ghz and has performed faultlessly since I acquired it in the 80s Sorry about the mouthy woman on flog it and the noisy motor...greased it but still makes a lotta noise (the motor...not 'er)
[Score: 8/10] 27"/900g Billings Sea King Capable of 10mph and a runtime of 25mins Twin Propellors (3 Blade 40mm) Direct Drive to a 2 x Como Drill (3 Blade) Powered by NiMH (7.2v) 2Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through Chinese 320a Fan cooled (10Amps) ESC - Comments: Found at a Boot Sale in a sorry state. Retained the 2 Como motors but replaced ESC with Chinese Fan Cooled 320a. Acoms AR-201 Rx, Futaba servo all linked to new old stock Acoms Techniplus Alpha 27mhz Tx. New rudder, original propshaft with new couplings. Hull painted in Hammerite Gold and Plastikote white. Retained orignal Billings decals. New stanchions and rails. Re-veneered deck and added some fancy balsa work. Plains well after contra-rotating the props.
My friend bought this sailboat build in 1996 along with 15 other boats at Port Credit, Ontario. My friend Ewald Bengel and his brother Fred, bought the sailboat with R/C equipped, but older Futaba AM but usable. The boat needed structural reinforcements, several new bulkheads, R/R rudder block and repair the rudder. They are not racing the boat intending to keep it at their summer home on the lake. They had me add a Birch plywood deck and hatchway. Progress is being made.
Job lot, one buyer only! I need the garage space back! 3 x Radio 10 Raters - two have 1 rig & winches, 2 FG & 1 Wood 1 x Complete IOM - 1 Rig & whirlwind winch FG 2 x IOM hulls only - 1 Planked & 1 very light FG & carbon fin 1 x Marblehead - complete FG Red - 1 x rig winch rx 1 x Planked hull 58" (6M ?) Graham Bantock 1 Rig & winch 1 x 1950's A-Boat (FG & Huge!) Rigging very old & original 2 x Hulls & original mould for 50's A-Boat + 3 x steel keels 1 x Victoria Class - Rigging in peices as I was going to CF it. 1 x Another kit in a box 675 class or something? 1 x Fleetwood Flyer - two suits no radio gear Various Futaba radios, servos & other oddments. May also throw in a couple of old air-planes. A rig for measuring the IOM hulls. An old Tony Abel winch... Serious clearout, may find more bits. It's not that modern & some will need a bit of fettling but grab yourself a substantial number of models! Difficult to get pictures as the garage is rammed full,but I have a few I am asking a reasonable £500 for the lot. Buyer to collect from Burnham, South Bucks nr Jcn 7 M4
Good morning folks. Well a few (3)decisions taken on advice:- Futaba Tranny 6 channel and receiver Larger battery pack, going with NiMh rather than Lipo That gives me something to do in the bottom of the boat when I take the lid off.................... All this started with tidying up the Smaragd sail boat, so seem to have lost track a bit. However, Tug Boat much easier to manage on the bench and if I have you chaps helping over my shoulder, I am happy! Next two questions to those using/used such boats. What about having independent motor drives to improve maneuverability ? Increase size of rudders? I must now go and spend some money! Regards to all. NPJ.
Hay Neville, don't say things like 'pestered' we all join this and other forums to get help and to give advice, i'm not the worlds greatest modeler, but i have been around for a good while, in many different types of models, air, sea and land. Nev, be careful sitting the hull lower in the water, she does not have a massive freeboard, with the bigger/heavier battery she will sit slightly lower. As for the Radio gear, I have Futaba, always have, expensive ish, but i like the way they handle!!!, If you look on ebay you can find reasonable gear from £30 ish, my futaba T6J is about £75 ish, lot of guys at my club swear by Frsky. Your choice. Look at the price of the extra receivers. CoG, battery forward or aft does not seem to affect the balance but i use 3300mah buggy packs so they are 2 - 3 time heavier than the standard AA cell pack. Battery forward can cause cavitation if you go full astern but normal sailing is good, if you want to tug tow, this is the way, battery aft gives the ultimate control, but with slightly less freeboard so running in choppy water might cause a bit of swamping, again your choice and/or water conditions. Just remember the only silly question is the one you did not ask!!!! Regards Mark
Hi Rallyst, I agree with you, but the radio gear supplied is not the greatest, I have bought all mine of ebay 1 had no transmitter and the other 2 on 27mh broke down within a short while, so nothing lost, my Richardson is still going strong, but will be re-fitting with Futaba gear, just so i only carry 1 transmitter Regards Mark
Yes Doug I too have the kit stashed and a bottle of Plastic Magic with a paint brush to apply it I'll use old 35 meg Futaba gear when I am able to get about again.BTW I'm John not Dave 😊Your idea about the floats for telemetry sounds good. Worth trying at least.👍Best regards John O/T