All donations are securely managed through PayPal. Amounts donated are not published online.
Many thanks for your kind support.
Model Boats Website Team
November 2018: 9 people October 2018: 9 people September 2018: 13 people August 2018: 5 people July 2018: 8 people June 2018: 8 people May 2018: 7 people April 2018: 24 people March 2018: 13 people February 2018: 4 people
Hi Martin, maybe! Maybe not! You might be lucky. Check the RX with just a servo plugged in somewhere. Then try setting up the ESC according to the instructions I sent. Basically all you have to do is tell it what type of battery you are using. Then it sets the correct 'Cut Off' voltage. BTW: since this is a 'One way only' ESC before you switch the system on make sure the throttle stick is pulled right back. Otherwise the motor will start up straight away. Mind yer fingas!! 😡 Also check that the throttle channel is not reversed at the TX - like most Futaba sets for some crazy reason - or again the motor will start up with the throttle pulled back. PDF: as Steve says; click on the Icon, then on [Download] in the top left corner. Windows should then offer you the choice of 'Open' or 'Save'. Click 'Save' and Windows will ask where you want to put the file. Cheers, Doug 😎
[Score: 8/10] 36"/2000g fair wind Capable of 3mph and a runtime of 15mins Powered by NiCad (6v) 3Amp/h Batteries - Comments: kyosho fair wind yacht .This is getting on for twenty years old,it is a big yacht wth a main mast and sails that is over 4 feet high.The electrics are futaba and it has two servos fitted one for the rudder and the other is for the sails.The hull is Abs with the mast and booms made from aluminum.I purchased this in a poor state with problem electrics and in need of tlc.
This is a small item but very visible on the wheelhouse and since the standard for this item has been set I have to follow suit. So first of all get some 3mm blue LEDs ordered and then it’s on with preparing the white metal body. I used by hand as suggested a series of drills increasing in diameter until 3.1 dia was reached but only 2/3 down the length from the front the smaller hole (1.5mm) was bored right through for the wires to exit. Arrival of the LEDs, first check the LED using my power supply, just over 3 volts seems to illuminate to the correct level. Next was to remove the shoulder on its plastic casing so the whole body does not exceed 3mm over its length and lightly abrade the outside to give a diffused light. Next cut the LED legs to 2mm from the plastic casing noting which is positive, next prepare the wires. I used Futaba servo wire cable 22awg which is very flexible and with the white signal wire stripped off leaving a red and black wire. These were tinned and cropped to 2mm and then quickly soldered to the appropriate terminal. Next check the LED still works! first hurdle over, I now needed to check the that when the LED goes into the body it doesn’t short out so checking the diameter over the widest part which is over the soldered terminals this was 0.1 below 3mm. I decided that shrink sleeve was too thick so I mixed some epoxy resin and coated all around the terminals, this proved to be satisfactory in both non-conductivity and dimensionally. Now the final test, using some aliphatic wood glue I slid the LED into the body whilst it was illuminated as it was a tight push fit, bingo it’s still lit – leave to set. I used aliphatic glue, as it would be easier to remove should I ever have to change the LED. The body still needs painting white but this will be done with all the other fittings at a later stage.
Just got a new Proboat Sonicwake .The e.s.c and brushless motor look very good but the STX2 TX appears to be a bit cheap . Not sailed it as yet but changed over to the Futaba T2HR system as I had already done on my Blackjack 29. I prefer the stick to the wheel and the Blackjack runs very well on the Futaba T2HR and has the steering adjuster on top right of the TX case. Has anyone else used the Futaba set in place of the one that comes with the boat.😁 Boaty
Does anyone know if a Sanwa Rx will work with Futaba Xtals. Both 35 mhz (planes only)👍🤔 More modern battery packs can replace the old DEACS so no probs there Westie.👍 I too use Bang Good and also Gear Best Both excellent.👍
Hi Bryan, I have found problems, even with matched crystals, the usual problem is that the some of the old rx's would not operate with a tx from a different manufacturer. I have acoms, futaba, Fleet and magregor as well as some unbranded tx's, but some of the models which I have aren't working with tx unless it's the same brand as the rx. This problem is mostly on the 27mhz models, although a couple of 40mhz systems have had the same problem. I always buy matched pair crystals. Even some am sets which never have a problem. So I thought if I can make a chart showing what is compatible with what. Cheers Colin.
I know what you mean, i have altered my Mcgregor TX to Futaba, the receiver was gutted and a Futaba RX hidden inside!!! this was for use on some 60's models so it looked the part, modern internals with a retro outer case
[Score: 9/10] 29"/1200g Avanti Capable of 15mph and a runtime of 5mins Single Propellor (2 Blade X Type 35mm) Direct Drive to a OBL29/19-15M (2 Blade X Type) Powered by LiPoly (11.1v) 15Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through BLC-40M (25Amps) ESC - Comments: ARTR fast electric by Thunder Tiger. Deep vee powered by Ripper Brushless outrunner. Will reach 30mph+ when flat out. I replaced the radio that came with the boat with stick operated Futaba T2HR as I preferred "stick" to wheel for sailing fast boats. Initial problem was slight leak where stern tube passes through the transom but soon fixed it with epoxy. Electrics are in a box at the stern which is appears to be water resistant. Though not for a raw beginner, it is great for a second boat especially if someone is hoping to move on to a 6S . If not , it makes a good all rounder and is ideal for club fast electric racing and it performs well when doing tight turns. Boaty
BTW John; Re LED testing: Yes I also use the 'diode' function of my multimeter to do a quick 'will it? won't it?' check. BUT that only tells me it works. With the tester I can determine the optimum current the LED needs, and thus the dropping resistor for any given supply voltage. Above a certain current, usually 20 to 30mA for the 3 and 5mm types, depending on type and colour, more current just produces heat instead of more brightness. Pic shows my tester, only few quid😊, see mA scale along the top! Runs off a 9V block. Cheers, Doug 😎
Mornin John Re detector circuit: It's not very complicated, only 3 or 4 actual components. The clues are good RF diode and a very sensitive meter! I just bought a couple of 300microamp full scale meters. Will do a little blog when I've tidied it up and boxed it. Re Heli: can you post or mail me pics of the TX, RX and ESC please. Brushed or Brushless motors? Given manufacturer / model numbers I might be able to figure out what the pissibolities are. No promises though 😉 Sounds to me like the TX stick is set up for forwards / backwards like a normal car or boat set up. I.e. for 0 to full speed in either direction is only half the stick travel. For aircraft 0 is full down, giving you the full stick travel for the speed range. The ESC probably needs to be 're-educated' and the TX throttle stick re-programmed, IF at all possible with the TX you got with the Heli. Re " P.S. Signals come from where Doug?" - Don't understand the question John ?? Cheers, Doug 😎
A question for you Doug A while back I got a little helicopter and Tx. 40 meg However I don't think the tx is the right one as it was one in a pile.. The problem is although it works up to a point the rotors don't move until the lever is about halfway through the range of movement and the rotors don't reach take off revs. The question is it possible to recalibrate or adjust the pot in some way to sort this? I couldn't test the set when bought as it was a place that sells S/H stuff from house clearances etc so no batteries etc So I took a chance as it was so cheap. I hope you can help as it's quite a cute little thing. Ciao John P.S. Signals come from where Doug?
Doug When you get the circuit sorted for the B/B tester I'd like a copy please. Will it be switchable wavelength wise. I/E one to the other? Re . testing LEDS I use my multimeter set to diode testing Eezy Peezy.🤓👍