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>> Home > Tags > gearbox

gearbox
gearbox
Vosper by Biscuit Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 10 days ago
[Score: 10/10] 42" Vosper Single Propellor (3 Blade 50mm) Geared to a Os 40 fourstroke (3 Blade) - Comments: I always liked the sound of a fourstroke engine so I thought I would replace the brushless motor in this boat with an aircraft Os 40fs which I converted with a water cooling jacket that I turned up on my lathe. I also made a reverse gearbox with a clutch, the gearbox is operated by a servo and works well, I also fitted a water pump so could still cool the engine while ticking over stationary, boat has been weathered and is fitted with lights and a searchlight that swivels around operated by another servo, there is also a cooling fan above the engine just to help keep things cool.

Vosper by Biscuit Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 10 days ago
Well this started off brushless but it had no soul or character, I bought an Os 40 fourstroke and converted it to be water cooled, I then made my own reverse gearbox and clutch assembly and fitted a water pump so the engine will keep cool while stationary. It has nav lights and a working searchlight that I can move while running.

Brushless motors (again) by Haverlock Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 18 days ago
depending upon the type of motor cooling it can be a problem. Most brushless motors are out runners so the case rotates! In runners are usually for higher speed applications (or driving a gearbox). If you have an idea as to the size of IC engine the boat was intended to have then this list may be a help .049 or .051 = 100 watts 0.10 = 200 watts 0.15 = 300 watts 0.25 = 500 watts 0.32 = 640 watts 0.40 = 800 watts 0.45 = 900 watts 0.51 = 1020 watts 0.61 = 1220 watts 0.75 = 1500 watts 0.91 = 1820 watts Since Watts are Volts * Amps ( I know this is not accurate for a reactive load like an electric motor but its a rule of thumb) This gives you a ball park next point is the KV ( revs per volt) of a motor. The higher the KV the smaller the prop. Finally buy a Watt meter they are not expensive and give you a chance to " fine tune" a setup. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FT08-RC-150A-Hight-Precision-Watt... Car ESCs ( usually) have a reverse function while the airplane versions do not. They are generally cheaper than boat specific ESCs.

Anteo 2 Tug by Colin H. Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Hi Dick, I have a few tugs and the largest at 49" uses a geared 540 running from a 12v 7ah sla battery giving a good 90mins running time. This model weighs in at 15 kilos ready to sail. I also have a caldercraft model tug Joffre. Which is about 30" long and runs using a 6v monoperm motor and gearbox. 6v 4.5ah sla battery giving about 1 hour run time. Weight is 5kilos ready to sail. Hope this helps. Cheers Colin.

Taycol Supemarine Resurrection by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi Colin, re your post in the scale speed thread- "I've got spare Viper marine 25 amp. So hopefully that will do. Also would you recommend a reduction box to give a fair scale speed as I don't want to overwork the motor." The Viper will be fine, I'll probably be using a little Viper Marine 10 on my Taycol Target in the fish cutter. Re gearbox: I doubt one is necessary. I would try to adjust the top speed more with the prop, mainly the pitch probably. The Supermarine is not particularly hi-revving, 4000 or so off load? If you reduce that your Sea Commander may behave more like a tug I suspect If you do decide to go that way PLEASE don't ask me to make it😁, I'm having enough trouble with the 1to1 gearing for my fish cutter😲 Good luck with bathroom and OP. Fingers crossed for you that the works DO start in 6 weeks (the bathroom I mean!) 😉 Cheers, Doug 😎

Hobby Engine Factory Tug Motors by jelley_baby Captain   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi I have just read your post about your tug, I am one of those who modified mine to two new motors:- A. Because the original gear box nylon pinion gears split and there was no way that one could get them to fix securely back on to the motor shaft, plus the fact that when initially refitted they would no longer mesh and if the motors stopped at the wrong point they would not restart they just jammed. B. I wanted to make the tug more manoeuvrable so fitted separate speed controllers to each motor enabling me to run one motor forward and one in reverse this with suitable rudder positioning allows the tug to rotate on its axis with very little forward or reverse motion. C. I was able to use a 6v 4Ah Gel type battery which gives a much greater runtime. As to the old gearbox I think that because the gears were split it was disposed of. Somewhere in my harbour here there should be some photo’s of the conversion. I am now using speed 300 motors with a 2.5:1 reduction position much further forward in the hull an I made extension shafts to the original fitted ones, and it all works. Hope this helps and perhaps explained the need to change the original setup. Graham

Hobby Engine Factory Tug Motors by pittsfieldpete Lieutenant   Posted: 2 months ago
Hello: I have a Hobby Engine “premium” 2.4GHz “Richardson” tug. This boat is identical mechanically to the “Southampton” tug. I’ve read many posts on the forum having to do with replacing the factory-installed motor/gearbox unit with two separate motors mounted side by side. Personally I’m happy with the factory drive setup; it’s quite powerful & it runs smoothly. The reduction gearing is a bit noisy, but my boat is new & will likely quiet down with use. I have two requests for those who have removed the factory drive unit & replaced it with separate motors: 1. If you’ve still got your factory drive unit & have taken it apart out of curiosity, if possible will you please post photos of the internal parts? I’m interested in seeing what’s inside the housing & how the gearing is set up. 2. Along the same vein, I’d like to acquire a spare factory drive to have on hand, just in case. If you have a complete, working drive unit that you’d consider offering for sale, please send a PM to me & let me know what you would want for a price. Thanks very much. Pete

Taycol Supemarine Resurrection by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi Martin, Apropos mini Milling machines; this is the one I use. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qffdG_d2fJ0 https://www.axminster.co.uk/proxxon-mf-70-milling-machine-37... Pics show using it to mill my new Sea Scout propshaft to secure the grub screws in the motor coupling. I just changed the tool holder from collets to a proper chuck. I also bought the little machine vice which clamps to the table, and the dividing head. There is also a CNC (putah driven version - ain't got that far yet, bit expensive😉) But this little job has served me well for several years now, very happy with it👍 I also use it as a precision drill press; e.g. to make the new phosphor bronze brushes for my Taycol target renovation. See last pic. Have also recently used it to make the little gearbox so I can fit the renovated Taycol Target into my ancient Billing Danish fish cutter 'Gina2'. See, I don't just do the 'Grey Fleet', sometimes I also mess with wood😁 Cheers, Doug 😎

Launch ELAINE, by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Bon chance mon ami! Your the man for that job, I never got beyond a little Enya and a COX 047 Glow job. Still have 'em somewhere. Was thinking of using the spare Glo plugs as ignition for firing guns or launching depth-charges on my destroyer! A little saltpetre, charcoal, eye of newt, wing of bat, 2V on the glo plug and ..... 😁 bye bye destroyer probably😲 Cheers, Doug 😎 Now back to me cutter gearbox, ya know I think it might actually work!!

Still Stripping......With Care! by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Evenin' Neville, I told you you'd get the hang of it pretty quick. (It was either that or you'd burn the house down😲)😁 Seriously; I'm proud of you👍 You had the guts to give it a go and you're learning fast 👍 Hat off Sir! A few observations; (Colin might also have some at this point, had a very nice chat with him on the phone this afternoon - but that's another Encyclopedia Britannica!) #1 If the paint scraps are smoking the gun is too hot or too close, or moving too slow. Wind it down to 350 and see how that goes. Back up to ~400 if seems necessary. #2 Bow cracks; I see a bodge up there where someone couldn't bend the skin properly or, benefit of the doubt (In dubio pro reo!), maybe it was collision damage. Whatever; filler in a thin crack will always vibrate out again sometime😡 Try to get at the inside and seal it with two layers of fibreglass tissue well soaked in resin, EzeKote is what I used. Wait about 10 minutes before applying second layer. Then it should bond well with the first. When that has set (ca 20 - 30 minutes) then you can apply some fine filler from the outside. When set sand smooth and seal the whole hull outside with two layers of FG tissue. Sand smooth and if any bare wood appears apply wood sealer or EzeKote thinned with 10% warm water. Don't overdo the water or it takes yonks to dry and set - Yes, it happened to me🤔 Then continue with priming / finishing as described above; or look in my Sea Scout 'Jessica' blog for the fine details. The beauty of using EzeKote for all this is that you can get a whole hull done inside and out in one day and no mixing ratios to cock up😊👍 If it's any consolation to you; when I did all this on my fish cutter and PTB loads of filler went soft and fell out as well, and the 'goo' holding the prop shafts in my PTB as well. No sweat as I wanted to realign the shafts anyway! TIP: I removed all shafts rudders and any other protrusions in the way so there were no 'twiddly' bits left to make things awkward. Leaving the odd patch of sanded paint which is still firmly fixed to the wood is OK; as long as you can't feel a 'bump' with your finger tips and you are going to seal it with resin and primer anyway. Then it can't react with the new paint. Here endeth the 3039th epistle from Admiral Doug. Will all dissenters, contradictors and other lobbyists and Trump lawyers please queue up at the Spanish Inquisition Office next door. Take a number, we'll grill you in turn 😁😁 How do you like your stake? Cheers All, Happy building and renovating, Doug 😎 Now back to me fish cutter gearbox, mechanical gubbinses are not really my strength🤔 HAMMER, have you got a minute please!? (Viewing / reading tip; click on the thread title, then you can read the the structured version in paragraphs as I wrote it 😉)

Launch ELAINE, by Colin H. Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Thanks Doug, I sort of gathered this principle but had no idea how to control it. There are two motors connected via reduction gears and levers to move the two parts into the various nozzle shapes for the thrust and the whole thing rotates via one of the motors also with reduction gearbox. The pictures are the best I could do with it still in the boat as I have not figured out how to remove it without damage yet.

Cheap motor for a quick fit, but what prop gents?... by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
Aha, I assumed it was an airyplane motor. I had an Ugly Stick once, given to me with a speed 400 motor and a gearbox with a bent shaft. So the motor came on board as a spare and the gearbox was dumped, but I stopped doing aircraft and so gave the Ugly Stik back to its reluctant owner. There's a whole range of Ugly Stik type things, all ugly and odd looking but apparently they fly very well. Looks like your photo shows a brushed 380 type motor with gearing too. Not sure about the 62mm length! It's way shorter than that. Has, as you can see, a flange mount. There's no mount for the blue one. The magnetism is amazing. I can hardly turn the shaft with fingers. So, do you reckon the motors would work in a boat? Cheers, Martin

ESC info... by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
Hi Martin, Scroll further down in the description and the How and Why of the programming is explained. Basically; reverseable ESCs are generally factory set for the truckers,car racing and buggy boys! That means that before you can go from forwards to reverse, or vice versa, the ESC commands the motor to stop, this is to protect the landlubbers gearboxes😉 It's irritating for boat drivers to have to shove the stick twice each time you want to reverse the motor, makes precise control more difficult. So for boats you need to switch off this function. Programming also means teaching the ESC the Max forward, Stop and Max reverse throttle stick positions. Looks like a decent deal to me👍 A programming card isn't essential, you CAN use the TX and listen carefully to the 'Beeps', but the card is much easier. More 'lecktrickery' 😁😁 Cheers, Doug 😎

LED Tug Mast Navigation Lights by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 months ago
Hi Pete, since you are in the US try here, the OTHER RS😉:- https://www.radioshack.com/pages/search-results?findify_limi... Personally I prefer stranded wire as it is more flexible and less prone to break if you often have to remove and remake connections, like when you take the cabin off! It's slightly thicker so it's more a question of 'Will it fit?' https://www.radioshack.com/products/22-gauge-hookup-wire-3-p... Some model shops have (or used to!) a really thin stranded wire, as used for tiny 'rice grain' bulbs'. 2nd question: I assume your tug has an 800mAh NiMh battery like mine did. Correct me if I'm wrong, I don't know the new models. I propose to change mine for a 2200mAh NiMh. Can't use LiPo cos the Brushed ESC isn't LiPo safe; i.e. with built in cut off if the battery falls to 3.0V per cell - lowest safe LiPo discharge voltage. 3rd Question - changing motors; I've often wondered that!😲 Up to now I don't see any reason to. Maybe those guys want to enter Towing Competitions!? I don't. Also some folks are just not happy unless they are tinkering and 'improving' 😉 I might try to quieten the gearbox down a bit though 🤔 Teflon grease perhaps!? Cheers, Doug 😎

Which motor by figtree7nts Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 months ago
Hi Neil, I use MFA/ComoDrill Torpedo 500. On my Tugs and they have enough power! I use the 2.5:1 g/box at 12 volts. It gives about 13350 rpm's http://www.mfacomodrills.com/ style='background-color:yellow;'>gearboxes/918d_series.html Cheers, Ed