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[Score: 8/10] 49" perkasa Capable of 8mph and a runtime of 60mins Twin Propellors (3 Blade 45mm) Direct Drive to a mfa marlin (3 Blade) Powered by NiCad (12v) 8Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through self made ESC - Comments: Glass fibre hull, rotating gun turret with simulated muzzle flash and gunfire sound,rotating radar antenna with simulated radar screen,working lights,rudder system linked to motors via micro switch assy allowing boat to spin on its axis. Constructed many years ago been in storage over 12 years about to make its comeback.
The cunning plan for the sails. Heming & stitching is difficult to get anywhere near to scale, unless the scale is large. So I experimented with the flying jib, worked very well. Except I have the bolt rope on the wrong side. I had tried this on glass before but the glue puddled showing badly. Using the Paper pattern cut out the cloth ( I use ticking) With at least 1/2" all around. Mine was washed & ironed. This was because it has been folded in a drawer since the last boat. Cut 4 Teflon blocks & drilled 2 holes ( Teflon cut from an old chopping board). A panel pin through holes one up one down. Place paper pattern on a board, nail the blocks so the nail sticking up is on the point. The other nail is clear of pattern, this will allow the block to pivot. Wind a string that has been soaked in PVA (water resistant type) around the nails. The cloth is slightly dampened with a spray, not to much or it will be to heavy & also the glue could run. Push the nails up through the cloth letting it sag again not to much. When dry remove it from board, cut off the excess cloth as tight as possible to the string. I then mark the panels with pencil. I do this on both sides, after the first side I tape it to the window so I can see & get them the same. Then give sail a coat of very watery coat of PVA, some mixed with acrylic paint. Seen on my model Flying Foam I had over done it a bit.
Vosper 46 RAF Crash Tender Kit plus 95% of the items required to complete the model. Brand new kit, motor, prop shaft, batteries, controller, glue’s etc. Unfortunately due to an unforeseen illness It’s looking like I will not be able to start the build so if anyone would be interested in buying the lot at a discounted price please message me? I could travel up to 100 miles from DE15 to deliver or meet to complete a deal if anyone is interested? Thanks, Ian. Courier may be possible at cost. WHATS INCLUDED: The Vosper 46 RAF Crash Tender Kit Boat ESC Programming Card 90A Boat ESC 4A SBEC 11.1V 5000mAh 35C continuous discharge lipo battery x 2 Tornado Thumper V2 4260/06 500KV - Brushless Outrunner RC Motor Canopy Glue Formula 560 Prop Shaft - 13" Maxidrive ( 8mm Tube/5mm Inner ) Universal Joint Propeller Propshaft Oiler Clamp Kit XL Brass Rudder Waterproof Toggle Switch Propshaft Grease ZAP Z Poxy Dual Power iMAX B6 AC Lipo NiMh RC Battery Balance Charger/Discharger Woven Glass Twill 100g 1m Wide x 3mtrs 30 Amp Inline Mini Blade Fuse Holder & Fuse (Splashproof) Flexible Silicone Wire Cable 14AWG Red & Black 5 Pairs XT-60 Male Female Lipo Battery Connectors Plugs I believe this is an amazing buy at £295
I have a lot of experience with Glue Guns having taught Technology in schools for 30 years +. There are two main types of glue stick-Hot melt and Low melt (for safer use). The hot glue will stick skin with often devastating results!!. I also build theatrical props and it is very useful for building all sorts of things and will stick most things well. ie wood, metal, plastics (which it can effect) glass, clothing, felt, straw, string, rubber and many many more, but they are all quick fixes and can come apart with constant use and vibration especially on shiny surfaces. In models I tend to use the stuff to hold cables in place and tack things in position quickly to align them before finally gluing with Epoxy. Motors can be be held in place with Hot Glue and the advantages are it makes a good sound insulator and can be repositioned for a few minutes before it goes cool. Also it can be prised off again if you need to change the motor. I would not not recommend it as a permanent fix on many model things and certainly not as a structural adhesive, fittings etc. will almost certainly fall off eventually. If you regard it as a third hand you'll find it a useful addition to your gluing arsenal. Happy boating......Ron.
[Score: 6/10] 33" Emily P II Single Propellor (3 Blade 40mm) Geared to a Torpedo 500 (3 Blade) - Comments: Purchased this hull from Prelived for £35 and intend to create a fishing boat capable of trawling and netting. Scale will be 1:12 The black plastic is 2.5mm thick and has been used to give the gunnels some depth. There will be a layer of fibre glass applied. Updates as the build continues...
Chain plates made, dead eyes turned from aluminium as I had no wood dense enough to hold together. Rod placed in 3 jaw with a 1/16th packing under one jaw, drill one hole move rod around one & repeat for other holes. Needed a magnifying glass for this. flotation test & placed the lead on deck. Fitted the mast using 2 levels. Good day norm, I hope mine looks as good on the water.
Completed all the clay work. Now set in casting plaster and waiting to see how it turns out in a few days time Have used 50 kgs of clay and 50 kgs of casting plaster so far. Next target is designing the top of the boat and back to clay and plaster again whilst the hull is being gell coated and fibreglassed Will report on the casting result shortly
I built this vessel from scratch using a pre made clinker fibreglass hull purchased from Mini Steam Australia. The engine is an oscillating twin cylinder and the boiler is a 3" Centre Flue Gas Fired Vertical Boiler from "Miniature Steam". The gas tank is a 1-1/2" vertical refillable GasTank also from Miniature Steam Pty. Australia.The vessel is radio controlled with the skipper appearing to control the rudder. It has a smoke generator and a rc controlled steam whistle.
Video of the first start-up and test of "Sweet Sue" in dry dock. All went well ! Had two sails on water since.I built this vessel from scratch using a pre made clinker fibreglass hull purchased from Mini Steam Australia. The engine is an oscillating twin cylinder and the boiler is a 3" Centre Flue Gas Fired Vertical Boiler from "Miniature Steam". The gas tank is a 1-1/2" vertical refillable GasTank also from Miniature Steam Pty. Australia. The vessel is radio controlled with the skipper appearing to control the rudder. It has a smoke generator and a rc controlled steam whistle.
Hi Wayne Just seen your post. The clear resin is casting resin and it is used for encapsulating ornamental and wildlife specimens. The model train boys use it for making rivers/lakes etc. Problem is its usually sold in 1 litre tins with about a 6 month shelf life so not that cheap for our purposes. If you have a railway socy or scale model society near you could try asking if they have any? My local supplier is http://www.resin-supplies.co.u k/ and look for GLASS CLEAR CASTING RESIN. Its about £11 per kilo. I do agree with Mark's solution but you may need to use UV safe cyano or it will yellow as does the varnish. The LED lens doesn't need to be covered so if you keep the cyano off the face it will be fine. Dave
Have been trying to source a 1/4 scale hull for a jet sprint boat but not successful so decided to make my own Borrowed a small model identical to the one I wanted and set to scaling it up by 2.5 times I have shown the start of the journey and will continue to post development until it is in action Have sourced 1/4 scale driver and navigator together with jet unit and electric water cooled motor which will need to produce 3 to 4 hp to drive the jet unit shaft Hope you all like it because it's been really interesting so far I should be in a position to pour the mould shortly and then have a fibreglass hull taken off😆