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Model Boats Website Team
December 2017: 2 people November 2017: 13 people October 2017: 9 people September 2017: 15 people August 2017: 10 people July 2017: 16 people June 2017: 8 people May 2017: 8 people April 2017: 19 people
So, as per manual, built the tunnel duct former from 6mm ply. This is where i deviated slightly from the manual by making the duct from 3 laminations of 1/32 balsa instead of the depron centre and balsa outside. I used some solarfilm backing to keep the drying balsa off the former to prevent the very wet wood bonding to it, this I found out with my first attempt that stuck firm to the former and was destroyed attemting to remove! Its turned out great and after careful measuring, the rudder support was fitted (3mm Liteply substituted for the depron) and the whole thing sanded, sealed and primed ready to take VW Brilliant orange tomorrow. I made the rudders from 3mm balsa and glass clothed 1 side. ive fitted brass tubes instead of the supplied plastic tube. Last coupl of pics show the hull base with some balsa sheet added to give some extra rigidity without adding to much weight.
[Score: 8/10] 38"/5000g SeaSpray Capable of 12mph and a runtime of 20mins Single Propellor (2 Blade S Type 35mm) Direct Drive to a MFA 850 (2 Blade S Type) Powered by LiPoly (11.1v) 6Amp/h Batteries - Comments: Purchased as kit around 1972, fibre glass hull with ply deck and superstructure. Had many changes and refits over the years and was originally fitted with and OS Marine glow engine which gave good performance and was quiet! Changed to the MFA electric motor with ESC. Installed two LiPo batteries which makes the hull well balanced and allows the deep V hull design to plane as designed. Have designed and made two electro-magnetic lifting sticks which help me raise and lower the boat into the water. Age related launching aid!
As the superstructure rose in height it confirmed a suspicion that had been growing for some time. In spite of the copious checks during construction, the leading edge of the bow was twisted slightly by about 3/32” towards starboard at it's base. Not sure how this developed, can only guess there was a slight misalignment during the original modifications that eventually grew to become clearly visible. It was the kind of defect only discernible to a careful observer - or me! Initially hoped to avoid corrective action, but the superstructure build seemed to emphasis the twist. The model is now looking quite good; it would be a pity to compromise it with an elementary, but fundamental, issue such as this. After many measurements, including using spirit levels and squares, decided to cut the trusty bow coat hangar loose, reposition it carefully laterally and then epoxy into place. The longitudinal shape was fine. The pictures show the twist, the cut and then the amount of reposition required. Reconstruction followed the original bow addition procedure. There was a lot of sanding required on the starboard side of the bow to realign the bow and hull transition. Fortunately, this was limited to the addition area, so neither the mechanical nor water sealed qualities of the original Velarde hull have been compromised. After repainting and finishing, all looked well, as shown in the final picture. Concluded this repair was indeed worth the effort. The problem would have been exaggerated in my mind to spoil my enjoyment and then pride in the model. Glass fibre is remarkably forgiving and there should be no reluctance to embark on such modifications when necessary.
This is what she looked like in August I have ordered a new suit of cotton sails but I am also making a pair myself which are nearly finished and then it's time for a sail.I think the original suit in the picture are really too delicate to use The braine gear has been set aside and she now has radio control with seperate winches for the job and main The deck has been removed and she is glass lined as some of the planks were a little fragile She is obviously now a bit heavier than she was but a bit more user friendly I will post some pictures of her on the water
[Score: 8/10] 35"/3400g USCGC KATMAI BAY (WTGB-101 Capable of 14mph and a runtime of 60mins Single Propellor (5 Blade 45mm) Direct Drive to a 775 Johnson type (5 Blade) Powered by NiMH (8.4v) 3Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through Dimart 320A Fan cooled (10Amps) ESC - Comments: 1:48 scale Replica of USCGC KATMAI BAY (WTGB-101), fiberglass hull & 3/4" plywood cabin/superstructure, molded by Al Mergens @ Coast Guard Models in Elk Grove Village, IL. Most likely the last Bay Class hulls that Al will produce, as he is retiring from this craft soon. I wish I could afford to relieve him of the molds; he has one for just about every USCG cutter and coastal craft that was built. As a safer alternative due to COPD, I would use polyester fabric & resin instead of fiberglass. She is a great matching scale companion to my USCGC VIGOROUS (WMEC-627) model from the same source. THANKS AL! SEMPER PARATUS! GOD BLESS AMERICA! YES, MR. ARNOLD PALMER WAS A US COAST GUARDSMAN (YM3) 1950-53
ON THE WAYS: 1:48 SCALE USCG 140' BAY CLASS ICEBREAKING TUG; FIBERGLASS HULL WITH WOODEN CABIN/SUPERSTRUCTURE KIT FROM COAST GUARD MODELS IN CHICAGOLAND. WILL BE REPRESENTING ONE OF THE CUTTERS I SAILED ABOARD IN THE EARLY '80s. USCGC KATMAI BAY (WTGB-101), H/P SAULT STE. MARIE, MI, USA.
Hi Andy What size is your Sea Queen? Is it from a kit or a published plan? What particular motor, ESC, battery and prop size are you intending to fit? If the supplied prop shaft is true it should be OK. I suggest you test it by removing the inner shaft and rolling it on a piece of glass. Any bend will easily show and that shaft will be unusable for your purpose. As Jarvo says you can perhaps shorten the length. I have just looked on the Cornwall Model Boats site and they have 5mm prop shafts which may be a better quality than those you have and are supplied with the common prop threads. Modern prop shafts are much better than were available a few years ago and yes I still have (unfitted) the original aluminium and mild steel prop shafts for my Aeorkits Solent 48" lifeboat and they were both bent!
Started to add the finishing touches to the hull; portholes, a bulwark capping strip and bilge keels. The portholes were drilled to the outside diameter on the drawing and small sections of styrene tube epoxied in. These were then drilled out and smoothed to the hull contour. Once the hull is painted lenses will be added usimg clear epoxy. The bulwark capping strip is a small styrene “U” section CA glued along the top of the bulwarks. This tidies up the edge and gives a smooth, consistent appearance. Have never been satisfied with previous attempts at bilge keels. Tried making them from both styrene and wood, pinned and epoxied into place. Not very robust, although they looked fine. Plenty of scope for repairs! Decided to try another approach on this model. Purchased strips of 1/4” L shaped styrene and CA glued them into position on the underside of the hull, with the leg facing in towards the keel. Filled the gaps on both sides of the styrene with fibre-glass resin and then rubbed them down, feathering the edges of the bilge keel into the hull. These bilge keels are nice and strong and, from the outside, the bodge is not visible. It can been just seen from the underside if the model ever gets inverted. Hope that is unlikely though! From here on the construction will follow well established principles, so will only write bog updates as significant milestones are achieved.
So, have mounted the motor having set it all up nice and straight, result is nice smooth prop shaft no binding. Have finished the obechi deck surround and finished the day glass clothing the other side of the hull. Next job is a couple of coats of thinned resin to finish the hull then it’s on with the deck pieces.
So, slow week due to work! However, sheeting is now finished, sanded and a tiny bit of filler where needed. Keel has been fitted, prop shaft is in. Have now glass clothed the transom and one side of the hull. Very pleased how well the hull side clothing went, managed to do it in one piece so no seem to sand out. Other side tomorrow.
This morning has seen an hour or so adding some more hull sheeting, tidying up the hole for the prop shaft and making the keel. Next decision is whether to add the keel prior to glass clothing the hull or after? My thinking is add before clothing, also fitting the prop shaft, done balsa infil between the 2 keep parts then glass cloth the whole hull for a good neat strong finish. Will add some more sheeting later once this lot has set and has been trimmed to accept next pieces.