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Model Boats Website Team
December 2018: 5 people November 2018: 11 people October 2018: 9 people September 2018: 13 people August 2018: 5 people July 2018: 8 people June 2018: 8 people May 2018: 7 people April 2018: 24 people March 2018: 10 people
The Model That I am Planing to Build Is The Hull Freezer Stern Trawler The Arctic Privateer H441 My Problem is though I have never scratched built a ships hull before I have tried looking for ships hulls online to no avail. Can any one give me any help or advice on where to start Building the hull would Plank on frame be the best way to go or glass fibre hull which is i think the harder as I do not have a mould in in which to start as I have very limited knowledge in mould making Scale: I am looking at is 1:48 any help would be gratefully appreciated many thanks John
[Score: 8/10] 39" US1Meter Powered by NiCad (7.2v) 3Amp/h Batteries - Comments: This is a US1Meter class boat that I built with the lendgendary southern Californis boat builder Swede Johnson. His design and molds. Fiberglass hull, carbon fiber rudder, keel, spars and mast. Nice fast boat.
Hi Kevin, Yes I did, because of the complexity of the shape that was another technique that could have been used. I decided to use glass fibre as the cowl is around 7" wide and 3 1/2" deep. Considered a draw of that depth was beyond my skill and facilities with plastic sheet. If they are available it would have been a good approach. The more I work with glass fibre the more forgiving it seems to be. Not many mistakes that cannot be disguised or corrected! Rowen
Back to the build. Next milestone, to complete the superstructure and engine covers. The superstructure is essentially a cowl that supports the open bridge and serves as the air intake for the gas turbines. The engine covers fit into the rear of it. The superstructure is full of curves and will be interesting to make. Still trying to save weight, decided to make it out of glassfibre. Rather than first make a plug then a female mould and finally the cowl, wanted to try the technique of making a plug out of styrene foam sheet, then covering it in a glass fibre matt. Once the glass fibre is set, the foam is dissolved out using a solvent and the cowl remains – Inshallah! To ensure the foam did not react to the glass fibre resin, painted the finished cowl with enamel paint before sticking the matt down. See pictures. What a mess! The resin had crept under the paint and into the foam dissolving it. When the resin dried the plug had shrunk slightly and had the surface finish of a quarry. First thought was to hurl it and start again, this time in wood. On second thoughts, wondered if the plug could still be used. Decided to build it up with wood filler and from it make a female mould, as originally intended. The cowl would then be made from the mould. Built the damaged plug up and sanded it smooth. As the plug would be covered in fibreglass, the surface finish was not critical. Brushed a coat of fibreglass on the plug and, after drying filled any defects with glaze putty and sanded smooth. Once the finish and dimensions were satisfactory, applied a thicker coat of glass fibre to the plug. This was again smoothed down, waxed with carnauba polish and then covered in mould release. From it the cowl was made. Picture shows plug, mould and cowl placed side by each. The cowl requires reinforcement; the fittings and various mountings then adding before installing. A trial installation showed that it fitted properly the deck and was accurate. A lesson for the next time is to make the plug and mould much deeper than the finished item. That will allow any rough edges, on either the mould or the component, to be trimmed off leaving a smooth fibreglass edge.
Hello, I did not like the plexiglass rudder build up for the Billing Boats Smit Nederland's Becker Rudders, so I asked my son if he could draw and 3d print me the plastic parts, which he did (see pictures). My son is now offering these parts (just the plastic parts, you need to use the other parts from the original kit) on his 3d printing webpage CustomRCFactory. Since I know that people are sometimes looking for these I thought I'd share it here. They are €12,- per unit, so €24,- for a set of two plus shipping http://customrcfactory.com/index.php/categorie-produit/batea...
I do not know how much knowledge of electronics your friend has but I need to point out that a hall effect sensor is not like a relay. While they do act like a switch ( sort of) they need to be powered and have a hall effect voltage to switch. This would mean in the use intended there would be a current drain on the sensor and if the power supply ( battery?) voltage fell to far it would not function. The effect you want could be replaced by a reed relay cheap and simple to use. However reed relays can only pass low currents so would need to be cascaded with a higher rated relay before switching the main battery supply on and off. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10-Pcs-2-5X14mm-3-Pin-4W-Glass-Re... these reed relays have both normally open and normally closed contacts and at a couple of quid for 10 worth buying so he can experiment.
Evening Sifi, Nice job, lovely woodwork 👍 Tip / Suggestion; to give your decks that 'final touch' how about spraying with a clear lacquer? I use one from the auto branch, e.g. used with touch up spray cans (esp. metallics) to melt/blend in to the original finish. Gives the varnish a finish like glass - sea attached pics of my Sea Scout. Cheers, Doug 😎
[Score: 10/10] 48" HMS Cadiz Capable of 3mph and a runtime of 120mins Twin Propellors (3 Blade 25mm) Direct Drive Powered by LiPoly (14.8v) 7Amp/h Batteries - Comments: Scratch built other than a fibreglass hull, built by my father over about 5 years using a mix of balsa, plasticard, ply and wire. He never sailed it but when I inherited it I was determined to complete it ready for it's first "sea trials". I've completed the RC installation and adjusted the ballast and it's now had two successful outings at the local boating lake.
[Score: 7/10] 30"/1700g Sally forth Capable of 12mph and a runtime of 30mins Single Propellor (2 Blade S Type 50mm) Direct Drive to a mtronics 700 (2 Blade S Type) Powered by NiMH (9.6v) 10Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through mtronics (10Amps) ESC - Comments: Pictures to follow. ply deck and cabin scratch built on glass fibre hull from an anglers bait boat. As a novice I am unsure on amps and running times etc.
Mornin' Toby, I'm back😁 Pardon the delay, just finished tidying up the wiring and final running tests on Colin's Taycol Supermarine motor and converter board - to make it run off a standard brushed ESC! The rivets look great👍 and the last pic was much better as well😊 Soooo many rivets 😲 guess you have to do them in batches, and then go pull up a tree or something, or you'd go doolally 😡 And I thought I was patient doing all the portholes and stanchions on my 4' 6" 1936 destroyer - that was ONLY hundreds! Rivets? Didn't even contemplate that!! I think you should continue this in a proper Build Blog - there's lotsa good stuff you're doing here👍 And at the end you can make a pdf file of the whole story with just a few clicks😉 Be a nice memento👍 Look forward to the Launch Report. During my career I attended the launches of several naval ships I had worked on,designing the COMMS systems. The funniest one was a glass fibre minehunter at the Intermarine yard in Italy near La Spezia. The ship was still in dry dock, like a huge bath. They turned on the 'taps' and slowly up came the ship! Keep up the good work, cheers, Doug 😎 BTW; were you sitting on the saw to help keep awake? 😁😁
[Score: 5/10] 40"/2800g Rough Rider Single Propellor (2 Blade X Type 50mm) Direct Drive to a O/S 45FSR then O\S 45RSR (2 Blade X Type) - Comments: 40" fiberglass Prather hull (1980s). Still have this hull, future twin electric fit out .