As the hull glass matting is really dry and has had some minor filling done it’s time to fit the chine rubbing strakes. which have been in the jig now for some days and consisted of a two dimensional curvature jig. In order to make sure the strakes were equally balanced on each side I made a cardboard template that followed the Chine stringers line and rested on the Gunwhale rubbing strakes, having drawn a line on the port side I flipped the template over and drew a line on the starboard side giving a perfectly equal curve on each side So now to prepare them for fitting. The jig had made a curve that was a really good fit without much spring. I decided to use some very small brass pins (0.5dia x 10mm long) to hold them whilst the epoxy sets. I pre drilled the whole length of the strake and lightly inserted pins along its length, then applied the epoxy and started to fix from the bow and followed the pencil line back to the stern. This was repeated on the other side, when set there was some minor filling to be done/filling pin holes.
Bryan, that appears to be a Fast Patrol Boat. I don't know that it was a kit one, although Aerokits did one, but it looks to be a very nicely done model. You certainly can't get those batteries any more, Ever ready being long dead as a company, but please keep them. They are more museum pieces than the boat! And that motor is something interesting. If you want to replace it with some modern rubbish, I'd be interested in buying it from you for my "Maverick's collection of Unfeasable Motors". I would be tempted to leave the finish as it is as that is so typical of the period (late 50s), but rarely seen any more. It's a very nice boat and deserves to be kept in period. These boats for real, were not that fast, despite being called High Speed Launches, so you don't need some screaming brushless in it. A 400 brushed would be sufficient. Some suitable decals on the hull sides would finish it off nicely. You could paint those side windows dark gloss grey to represent glass from a distance. Cheers, Martin
Hi Dave thanks for your response, I do like the fin idea for the ballast plus there's no ugly bulp sticking out the bottom spoiling the lines. That's a good weight of fibreglass your using so it must be the light not doing you any favours in the picture making the hull look distorted. I have been researching the wherry for sometime now for a future build at 1.12 scale with clinker hull . Cheers Ron
Hi Dave and welcome to the mad house, looking at the picture of the hull the hull sides look like they are collapsing, what weight of fibreglass are you using for the hull? What is the finished thickness of the hull? Is there a reason for the fin running the length of the hull ? Ron
Nice boat Kevin. I have a fibre glass SHG Surfury and a SHG Cigarette. There are some pics of them on here. Both now have electric Brushless motors and look realistic on the water. I always fancied building a Surfury from the same plan, but the complex rounded hull looked too advanced for my skills or patience but maybe one day.
Brian Over hear in the US we have the american model association has all specs on all model sailboats . I have a 10 rater which is 60 inches long 18 inches wide. The keel on my looks same as yours. My boat is scratch built. Make the rudder out of Fiberglass it worked for me😊.
Since I had been finishing the Gunwhale rubbing strakes and had the boat right side up and I was going on holiday for a few days I decide to glass the deck this would give the deck time to set. So some fine filling and then cut the matting to shape. Again I put a light coat of resin onto the deck then allowed the matting to sink into the resin, a minimal amount of brushing is required and then its left to harden overnight. The resin is now sufficiently hardened after two days so before I go away I can apply another light coat of resin which fills the matting pattern very easily - a week away now will allow the resin to harden fully.
Didn't know you were into cloning Graham 😉 Know the feeling, my workshop is also overflowing so Graf Spee now resides on a glass shelf above the dining table and the PTB in the bookshelf 😁 BTW: the fishing boat I inherited from my aunt, and thought was from Kent cos we all hail from East Kent, most of us from Folkestone (my H class destroyer HMS Hotspur absolved her Sea Trials on Radnor Park pond around 1966) turned out to be a Billings kit of a Danish fish cutter based in Ebsjerg Denmark! No idea how Aunty got hold of it😉 Good luck with fleabay👍 Cheers,Doug 😎
[Score: 5/10] 86" Macedonian Powered by Lead Acid (6v) 7Amp/h Batteries - Comments: Macedonian was a Lively class 38 gun frigate of the Royal Navy built in 1810. She fought and was captured by the American frigate United States in October of 1812, and taken into the US Navy where she served until 1829. This model is 1:36 (1"= 3'), built of white pine over 3/8" CDX plywood forms, covered with one layer of 4oz glass cloth outside and coated with poly resin inside. It will depict the ship as she was in 1812, before being re-rigged to American standards. Estimated specs: Beam: 13-1/2" Length of the hull: 59" Length over the rig: 85-3/4" Width over the rig: 36" ~ Main yard w/o stuns'l booms. Length on deck: 55" Draft: 6.7" w/o ballast keel, 10.2" w/ballast keel. Height bottom of keel to main truck, without ballast keel: 60.8", with ballast keel: 64.3"
Boiler complete just the pipe work to do when the engine installed. No clack feed as will remove safety valve to fill, & turn the boat over to empty, although there is a valve on the sight glass. Sorry about the shadow across the makers plate, which is level although doesn't look like it in photo. Boiler room roof tin plate finished & painted (after photo). Skylight & hatch made to open, to allow air to burner.
Get yourself a small pack of epoxy resin from ebay and seek out all slight delaminations of the plywood frames. Get the epoxy in those split bits and clamp them up. A clothes peg is sufficient if you're short of space. You can put a piece of cling film twixt peg and wood so the peg doesn't stick. Then use the rest of the epoxy to waterproof the insides. Be thorough and methodical. If you sand the model back to wood, use epoxy on that, either through fine model aircraft fibreglass cloth or just squeegee epoxy on all over with an old credit card. It goes much further and gets forced into the grain. It's not necessary to use GRP cloth on everything if it's well built. I have several over-50 year old model boats that are perfectly water tight with decent paint jobs (enamel, of course). Cheers, Martin
Respect to you my boy! That engine is a thing of great beauty!!. Here in Liverpool we have the "Tate modern" art gallery, if it was up to me and I'm sure many of you, that engine would be pride of place in the foyer under glass. You must not sell it, you'll regret it, keep it and just look at it when your feeling low🤧, I would. I am so tempted to contact you, but my wife has told me " no more boys toys or I'm leaving home" which gives me even more incentive, as if the engine wasn't enough on it's own😳👌. Norman.
Hi Michael. I was also a bit nervous when glassing the hull, I did a few trial pieces first to test the application method and the curing time but I actually found the process very straightforward and gave excellent results. Next time I'll use the faster curing hardener now I have the technique and confidence. I do regret not glassing the deck and superstructure as they would have benefited from a stronger surface. If it's not too late you might want to consider insetting a piece of steel or brass on the tip of the prow on the upper strake to protect from any accidental knocks. I managed to do that while carrying the boat through a doorway😡. It was quite easy to repair but a bit late for me to add a reinforcing plate around the nose. Keep up the great work. Robbob.
[Score: 5/10] 36"/1500g S10 Twin Propellors (3 Blade) Direct Drive to a Graupner jumbo 540 (3 Blade) Powered by NiMH (6v) 3Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through Mtronik (10Amps) ESC - Comments: Built from a Vic Smeed plan in 1986, fibreglass hull, wood and plasticard and plasticard superstructure and various plastic, wood and metal fittings.