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>> Home > Tags > glass

glass
fiber glass
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glass
MFA Avenger kit by 2435mick Seaman   Posted: 5 days ago
Hi, I have for sale a new and unused MFA Avenger kit, it is all fibreglass, the box has been opened but thats as far as it got, all parts are still in their original wrappers/bags. I will never get around to building this and would like to see it go to someone who will construct and finish it to a high standard. Designed around the MFA 12v motor, I think a brushless would be much better or a glow conversion (3.5cc to 8.5cc recommended). Looking for £70 plus post (courier about £9) will sort a photo of box if anyone wants to see it

Dr. Ing. Sander by Inkoust Lieutenant   Posted: 5 days ago
The German model of fire boats. Hull with plankováním-wood, fiberglass superstructure. Drive 2 pieces motru 400 with gear ratio 1: 3, used customized truck from washer pump and powered by the 400 system. Complete illuminated flagpole, lights, cabin space and marker lights. Lifting the fire escape personally manufactured servo. Two functional water cannons. Batteries 2 pcs NiCd 3000 mA

Fiberglassing by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 6 days ago
Hi chugalone 100 Welcome to the site. You can fibreglass with different types of resin and cloth. If you are making and casting a fibreglass hull use fibreglass matting but to cover a hull lightweight fibreglass cloth is best. This is the type shown in the suggested video. Resin can be epoxy or polyester based but the latter is generally cheaper and in my opinion is easier to use and doesn't require thinning with alcohol. It is sold as layup resin and is supplied with hardener. Do follow the instructions re quantity of each part and mix thoroughly. If you are using epoxy Iso Propyl Alcohol is the type to use and is clear. The video shows using a brush to apply the resin and whilst this is OK it will give a very thick and heavy coating. I use the brush to apply and then a credit card sized piece of plasticard to spread the resin over and into the surface of the cloth resulting in an almost opaque finish with the weave showing through. You do need to have a good surface to work with as any imperfections will show when the resin hardens. Once dry give a light sanding all over to remove any imperfections and fill any holes with car body filler and sand smooth. I then apply a very thin top coat of the resin using a brush. When dry use wet and dry to sand and if necessary apply further thin coats until you have the finish you require. I have a local supplier and if you visit the site http://www.resin-supplies.co.u k/product.htm all the resins/cloths etc are listed. Using Google should bring up a local supplier. you do need to follow the safety instructions to protect yourself and wear appropriate protection for your hands, eyes and breathing, it is also best to apply in a well ventilated area and not on a cold day. The end result will be well worth the effort to keep your tug waterproof. You could also paint the resin over thye inside of the hull to protect the wood from any water that doeos find its way inside. Dave

Fiberglassing by Trillium Commander   Posted: 6 days ago
Some can do fibreglassing as easily as shelling peas. I have fibreglassed 3 models so far and have yet to master the technique. I've spent far too much time sanding the results to make them smooth. For my next project I plan to follow the guidance shown here:https://www.youtube.com/w atch?v=ujk-wBQDUSk. He talks about 'denatured alchohol' which, in the rest of the English-speaking world is referred to as methylated spirits.

Fiberglassing by sonar Lieutenant   Posted: 6 days ago
Resin and Glass fiber Tissue. The tissue will just hold the resin and give a good seal. Wet the area with resin first..... then lay over the tissue. The tissue does have a certain amount of stretch to it. Easy to join just tear the edges and dab on with resin using . soft brush. Very soft stippling required. The grp Tissue has NO strength to it as is NOT structural just used to get a smoother Finish when Laminating Grp Not Easy to apply but easy to sand off if you make an error.

Build Update by Pav403 Commander   Posted: 6 days ago
Hello all, Hope you are well? It's taken a while to get to where I am but I can start to see some real progress. I've managed to get the main superstructure complete, they are at a stage where they could be connected to the deck if it was ready. The Hull is now covered in a layer of Balsa, it does now need a lot of rubbing down so I can then look at applying a layer of fiberglass. I've not ordered this yet but I have seen it advertised at Cornwall Model Boats. If anyone has any suggestions on how to fiberglass I'm happy to hear any advise as this will be my 1st time. Good luck with your builds Regards Dave

Fiberglassing by chugalone100 Apprentice   Posted: 7 days ago
Any suggestions in how to seal a wooden tug hull with fiberglass.

Big Blue by sonar Lieutenant   Posted: 8 days ago
Well I have now painted the top. And stuck in all the windows. For the glass I used some old clear plastic fruit containers. But afterwards noticed I could have had windows with a slight green tint by using some old 7 up lemon aid bottles. Still maybe next time. In the meanwhile again I have been making and painting the little bits that will be stuck on at a later date.

Marina by NeilHodson Lieutenant   Posted: 10 days ago
[Score: 8/10] 42"/6000g Marina Capable of 5mph and a runtime of 60mins Single Propellor (3 Blade 70mm) Geared to a Unknown (3 Blade) Powered by Lead Acid (12v) 15Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through Chinese ESC - Comments: Resurrected from a derelict hull and 'mahoganised', this boat is built on a bread and butter hull coated in fibreglass. Boasting a Steam sound generator and baby oil smoke generator linked to the speed controller it had been mistaken for steam powered on several occasions.

Ballast for Puffer by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 14 days ago
I have a large 4' Puffer purchased many years ago form Martins Models at an E Port show. Originally I tried lead but it became very heavy to carry. I modified mine by making three large sealed fibreglass containers in side the hull which were open at the base and had open portholes at the top exiting thro the hull sides. I now only need about 1lb of lead plus the 12v 12Ahr battery to ballast. Put the model in the water then add the battery and ballast, the boat sinks to the waterline. Take the battery and ballast out and the boat rises, lift with two straps and all the water drains leaving a light hull to carry. The pic shows the model in its lead ballast days.

Ballast for Puffer by RHBaker Captain   Posted: 15 days ago
Suggest try a mixture of old car wheel weights. The radial ones are usually good where they can be slide in and for more congested spaces use the square stick on ones. Most tyre companies are only too pleased to get rid of them. Leave them to soak in paint stripper, wash well in cold water and most of the old paint and adhesive will come off. The remainder can be got off with mechanical endeavours. Once located, saturate in glass fibre resin and they are fastened in for life. If they need to be removable use double sided tape.

First post... by Midlife306 Petty Officer   Posted: 17 days ago
Hi Dave, That looks like a really nice piece of water! I have a massive appreciation for the work, skills & dedication involved in building & running accurate scale models. My fascination is with fast boats, K7 in particular & although the design is over 60 years old now, it's still a bit of a hooligan. It just didn't occur to me that someone with a boat like mine would be welcome amongst the scale community, at first scan through list of clubs there isn't anything on my doorstep, I'll have to increase my radius. My skill levels are limited but as they say every day is a school day & I'm picking up new knowledge & skills as I go along. The concern for me between IC & Brushless is on one hand add fuel & run for hours vs add batteries & run for minutes. 240+ amp esc's can cost the same as a half decent 30cc IC engine but to be honest for me the sound of electric motors is far more preferable to IC. I guess I need to take on as much advice as possible before I start splashing the cash. I'm certainly not pigheaded enough to ignore advice given, that's for sure. I've seen a video on YouTube of a guy building an aeroplane fuselage without a mold, by creating a blue foam plug & fibreglassing over it, once the fibreglass has been smoothed & filled it is split to remove the foam core, he ended up with a large lightweight fuselage that only needed minor bracing to make it strong enough to fly. This idea really appealed to me so I went out today and bought a load of blue foam, I'll have a go at building the sponsons first & see how I get on... Cheers Wayne

First post... by Midlife306 Petty Officer   Posted: 20 days ago
Hi all, my first post so please be gentle with me. I'm Wayne from Colne in Lancashire, I'm very new to the hobby. I started building a brushless prop driven 1/12 scale Bluebird K7 late on last year, I'd got the plans from Canada & they were at best very poor. At first it was 1 step forwards & 2 steps back but I've progressed to the point where it's "alive", just the canopy to vacuum form & fit & it will be ready to paint. During the backwards steps I've also built a 1/24 scale K7 for my grandson, just the sponsons to fit then it will be ready for paint also. I've managed to lay my hands on the Nexus K7 plans at 8.4/1, I figured go big or go home so I had them doubled in size so they are now at 4.2/1, I just can't afford to put a turbine in is so I'm planning to put a couple of 27cc tiger king engines in it. It's going to be an expensive build so I'm collecting "stuff" for the build. I've managed to get hold of an old Dumas short stuff fibreglass kit that I'm going to build for my grandson & ive just got a bigger hull off eBay for £30. Can anyone identify this hull? Sorry for the long post!!! Cheers Wayne

Vosper 46" RAF Crash Tender Kit Brand New & Boxed + Almost everything needed to complete the build. by justintime2001 Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 23 days ago
Vosper 46" RAF Crash Tender Kit Brand New & Boxed + Almost everything needed to complete the build. Cost £565 - A True Bargain at £325 for the lot. Sale Includes: All items are brand new, unopened Vosper 46" RAF Crash Tender Kit x 1 Boat ESC Programming Card x 1 90A Boat ESC 4A SBEC x 1 11.1V 5000mAh 35C continuous discharge lipo battery x 2 Tornado Thumper V2 4260/06 500KV - Brushless Outrunner RC Motor x 1 Canopy Glue Formula 560 x 1 Prop Shaft - 13" Maxidrive ( 8mm Tube/5mm Inner ) x 1 Propshaft Grease x1 Universal Joint x 1 Propshaft Oiler Clamp Kit x 1 XL Brass Rudder x 1 Waterproof Toggle Switch x 1 ZAP Z Poxy x 1 Dual Power iMAX B6 AC Lipo NiMh RC Battery Balance Charger/Discharger x 1 Woven Glass Twill 100g 1m Wide x 3 EL2 Epoxy Laminating Epoxy 770g + AT30 Epoxy Hardener Slow 230g x 1 30 Amp Inline Mini Blade Fuse Holder & Fuse (Splashproof) x 1 Flexible Silicone Wire Cable 14AWG Red & Black x 1 5 Pairs XT-60 Male Female Lipo Battery Connectors Plugs x 1 Collected from Burton on Trent or Could meet part way Bargain at £325 for the lot. Cost £565 so a saving of £240.

porthole window glazing by sonar Lieutenant   Posted: 24 days ago
I have in the past used superglue to fix the plastic windows in. And some have gone a milky white colour. So yet another lesson now learnt . So what sort of adhesive should I use ? The superstructure is plastic and the glass material is a load of cartons that at one time contained Grapes. Thin clear and flexible. Any suggestions please