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>> Home > Tags > glass

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Planking almost very nearly finished! by Skydive130 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 19 hours ago
Finished nights this morning, had a couple of hours kip then thrashed some more planking! Stern end finished, main hull finished, just the bow uppers to put in. Once completed, will get some pva squeegee’d into the inside joints between planks and formers then will give the inside a couple of coats of resin. Once that’s done, rough sand the hull and fill the remaining gaps and blemishes with wood filler before final sanding and touch filling prior to glass clothing. Before I glass cloth, shall install prop shafts, motor mounts, motors, install decks then onwards with clothing.

Bondo the keel! by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 days ago
Mornin' Ed, Not surprised that this is your last Dumas kit🤔 I recently bought the Deans Marine kit of HMS Manxman, a WW2 fast cruiser / minelayer, 1:96 53". It has a superb fibreglass hull that I can't fault and hundreds of cast resin, brass and white metal bits n pieces 😲 On the other hand the drawing supplied is a bit limited, but no sweat as I have several detail photos of the original anyway😉 Rather that way round than like Dumas! Attached are a few pics from the build instructions (there are hundreds on a CD). Good luck with the rest of your build👍 😎

Bondo the keel! by figtree7nts Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 days ago
Hi Doug, The Brooklyn Tug will be my last model from Dumas. Their QC is really bad, they give you a very well drawn blue print of the model. then give you sub standard components to build said model! I just noticed there's going to be a difference of 1/2 a millimeter. In port and starboard Bulwark thickness. This won't be seen to others. But I'll know it's there! I must press on..... I really wish they would have stayed with the fiberglass hulls!

It’s been a long day! by Skydive130 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 6 days ago
Yes I will be glass clothing the hull, it’s a process I rather enjoy and something I bring over from my aircraft days.

It’s been a long day! by Bobatsea Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 6 days ago
Are you planning fibreglassing your hull? I did mine, 1 strip down the keel and around the stern, then both sides. Currently on coat # 5 of resin with sanding in between.

False Keel in place! by figtree7nts Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 6 days ago
After grinding the flange that's 1/4" high. Took all day long! grind here, sand there! False keel is now in place. A bit of bondo to fill the gaps! Lots of sanding to do! there's a big difference between the fiberglass and the ABS. Lots more work to do on the ABS hull!

Trim the Keel! by figtree7nts Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 7 days ago
Unlike the fiberglass hull. that use to come with the Brooklyn. The ABS hull has to be trimmed down (Flange) to the hull! After this you'll put a 3/8" x 1/4" piece of plastic on the hull! This will then become the keel! Be careful not to go into the hull. While your trimming the hull!

Lady T by AlanP Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 7 days ago
The next stage was to fit the prop tubes and motors, MMModels prop tubes and T4 motors were used. Now I will admit that getting the tubes lined up and getting them to come out of the hull nearly horizontal gave me a lot of headaches. The hull had different thicknesses and shapes of fibreglass were the motors had to be fitted, the A frame markings on the hull, especially the inboard ones were way out, all of this plus the fact that the motors had to be fitted more or less on the bottom of the hull. Aligning pieces were made on the lathe to go between the prop shafts and the motors. Motor mounts were made from hardwood and shaped on a belt sander to fit the hull bottom. I think I had about five attempts at this stage using all sorts of pieces of ply with holes in them, wooden wedges and of course masking tape. Motor mounts, I only have one photo of these, holes drilled in hardwood with a hole cutter, then cut in two on the bandsaw to give two halves that can clamp the motor, draught excluder stuck on the inside and the two halves fastened together with two wood screws.

Resin on the Seam! by figtree7nts Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 7 days ago
Well now that my prop stuff arrived. I fent like working on the seam. That goes far and aft in the hull! Had to place a 1" wide fiberglass ribbon. Along the middle of the hull! Reinforcing the hulls inner keel!👍

HMCS AGASSIZ (Corvette) by Dom of Essential RC Captain   Posted: 13 days ago
This truly stunning piece was created by Barry Sharman of Southampton International Plastic Modellers’ Society (IPMS UK). A replica of the HMCS Agassiz with a mind boggling level of detail not only on the outside but also on the inside visible through cut out sections of the hull. Barry invited me to see the other side of the model and was amazed to see several crew members restoring that side. Spectacular and no wonder it was protected by a glass case that Barry kindly removed so I could film it without chance of picking up any reflections.

SEA COMANDER RE-FURB. by Colin H. Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 15 days ago
Just started this re-furb 😭, I forgot about this boat, it was built in 1966 by my dad👍. Been in my sisters loft since 1975 and was only found a few weeks ago when she moved house. so hope to add to my harbour as soon as its seaworthy.👍 Biggest problem is the amount of fiberglass on the outside of the joints, old heavy duty stuff but seems to be coming away okay, will be coating hull in Ezicote and fine glass cloth. At least it makes up for the loss of dads old Sea Queen.😊

Inside of the Hull and the Flange by figtree7nts Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 15 days ago
OK, the inside of the hull is sanded! Next is Polyester resin about one pint. and a 1" brush is needed for this step! In the kit there is a 1" x 40ish" of fiberglass tape. Use this to reinforce the seam. After that comes the Flange that goes around the hull. You must grind down all of the flange that run far and aft. Be very neat don't gouge of nic the keel! The next step is to put the false Keel. Remember be neat working around the Keel....

Too Powerful Brushless ? by pmdevlin Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 16 days ago
sorry to bore everyone with repeated info, as a similar question was posed recently. I agree with the fact that shaft is too thin, it very much looks llike a fibreglass very light racing boat set up, now this doesnt mean you cant go fast with your boat, but you need components that are up to lugging a big heavy lump of wood around the pond, not a lightweight feather😊 I have 5mm shafts, less whipping. and I have oilers so they are lubricated with oil rather than grease, just my preference. You can get these shafts from shg marine, they will supply with push in aceteal (probably spelt wrong!) water lubricated bearings, real cheap, so you can change then every season if you want. The shaft has to be supported, where it exits the hull, just put it through another piece of ply, and fill the void with epoxy, and double up the former thingy it goes through in the same way. (pic) The prop you used is the wrong blade type, thats probaly why it fell apart, plus the soldered on blades are a weak design for higher speed, simon higging is one piece, but at this stage, still testing, you can get plastic "x" blade ("s" blade are less speed)_ props again from shg marine for a few quid each, then you can test a few different sizes. If you jump in for an expensive brass one, and its wrong, its wasted money. As a starting point, 35mm, 40mm and 45mm, if you dont have any way of testing with data logging etc, you are doing short runs, with the smallest first, and seeing if the motor gets hot etc, and what sort of speed you are doing. My brushless motors are generally 800 to 900kv, and achieve 25mph in four foot heavy hulls, you want lower kv for torque, not high kv high rev motors. I got into thsi 10 years ago, thwere was NO advice around then as it was new tech in boats so I learnt the hard way😭 When (if) you go to a brass prop, the "cleaver" blade design (pic) works well, I did extensive testing with my Huntsman and fireboat and was lucky enough to have Simon Higgins testing props with me on my boats, again because what I was doing, large scale boats, but going very fast, was unique, and the cleaver design was the best at the time. Forget the fear of lipo, and brushless, they go as slow as your throttle stick is pushed, 👍

Brooklyn Tugboat by figtree7nts Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 17 days ago
Hi Donnieboy, Sure is a great kit! It's not the fiberglass one like they had years ago. But I don't mind the ABS plastic. I find it easier to work with! I also built the Jersey City! guess you can say I collect 1:32 scale tugs. I built the San Pedro which is also 1:32 scale. Lots of fun to be had......

Too Powerful Brushless ? by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 21 days ago
I have to agree with Peter's comments. I would also suggest that you look at the coupling and fitment of your prop shaft. It could be that the whole unit is seizing together. You also need to check it is true and free running. You need a prop and locknut followed by a thrust washer then at the inboard end a thrust washer locknut and coupling. There should be a gap between the thrust washer and bearing of a few thou', we used to use a Rizla paper, Make sure all joint are tight and that the shaft turns freely and smoothly. The motor need to be securely mounted to a good solid base and 100% aligned with the coupling and prop shaft. Personal experience tells me you don't get a second chance with brushless, you have been fortunate if it is only the prop tube has suffered. Is your hull wood, plastic, fibreglass? Whilst Araldite is a fine adhesive you may need to use Stabliz Express or UHU Acrylit Plus which provide an exceptionally strong joint. E-bay have sellers of UHU in the UK. Good luck and please keep us posted