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>> Home > Tags > halfords

halfords
halfords product
halfords
fuse holder by Manofkent Petty Officer   Posted: 22 days ago
I agree with using the ones from component shop. They do single and two gang and as well as using auto fuses (Halfords) the holder has an led that shows red or green depending on motor rotation direction.

fuse holder by teejay Commander   Posted: 23 days ago
Hi all , can any one recommend a fuse holder type for RC boat , I have tested the schenllboot in the testing tank got all three working but intermittently , motor 1 fuse blown motor 3 smoking ,its a 15 amp 7.2v system.my aim is to replace Halfords fuse holders with ones more suited to model boat cant find any on internet which are specific for model boats , also planning to change wire for mtroniks wire for the fuse holder, programing the ESC works better doing one at a time

just need cable (wire)... by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Gents, I wanted the soft floppy silicon covered wires, so Halfords wouldn't do. Doug, the odd thing is that when I worked in Germany as a clay modeller, I was often given hard modelling jobs (not clay) which usually meant making complex little mechanisms. So much so that I became known as Mechanical Martin or just "Mekanist". Yet back home fitting all the worky bits to a model boat or even a slot car/model railway loco is the bit I hate! Don't know why, except maybe in the boats/slotcars/locos there is a certain way of doing it which I find a drudge and in the clay studios there was always an element of invention required. Indeed I am the nominated inventor on a VW patent! But, I have run out of space for storage boxes and can only rarely get to a decent pond to run anything, so I am going over to static models only now. 1/24th scale models of mahogany hot rods (woodies), some in scenic set-pieces, maybe. But I'll finish the models I have on the go first. Martin

electrical connectors by teejay Commander   Posted: 1 month ago
Hi all back at bench for a couple hours my back is slowly improving. the build is nearly complete, but I do have a bit of a problem with the motors, two of the motors have grouper type connectors the other has connectors form Halfords, The one from Halfords is motor 3 this is the central motor , motors 1&2 have grouper connectors , motor runs really well no problems, but 1&2 RUN INTERMITTILY but only when tweak the connector, Now I don't know if there is some other piece of kit I yet to find out about or maybe the grouper type connectors are just finicky , any body any suggestions or comments before I replace the connections with the Halfords connectors and here is question for Doug you said it would be wise to fit a switch and a fuse on the battery for the RX I have a four cell battery , what size of fuse would recommend. and lastly here is the picture of my little milling machine

just need cable (wire)... by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Aha! Of course!! GO FASTER STRIPING!! 😁😁😉😉 Zoom Zoom Masie😁 Martin. Don't know why you didn't just troll down to your local Halfords or any decent garage / auto parts shop, where you'd find the stuff hanging off the walls. Red, Black and any other third colour would do. The three brushless motor leads can all be the same colour, don't make a happorth o' difference. If the motor don't run the way you want just swap any two wires and all will be hunky-dory You aren't working with high currents (i.e. more than 10 to 15A) as far as I can see so the 'standard' car wiring , ca 1/8" diameter, would do. Cheers, Doug 😎 BTW; if you hate working models why the heck do you bother building 'em!?

Spraying Again....... by boaty Admiral   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi Doug Red primer certainly is porus and does need some protection when used on a wooden hull. The only exception to this is when the hull is plastic then plastic primer can be used. It adheres better than the standard primer and is readily available from the likes of Halfords etc. I have used this on my Italeri P.T 109 and is still good seven years on. Boaty😁

Spraying Again....... by NPJ Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Well had a break of a few weeks, now back on the job. So now have a Red Oxide boat rather than Yellow one……………… Although these next stages are a bit ‘ samey’, I have learnt a few things as it happens. For example, I had put three coats of the Halfords filler/primer on a couple of days before I had a break. Now when I left it all looked dry, well covered and ‘solid’. When I came back to it some weeks later the longer drying period had shown up some gaps. Well not gaps actually but ‘mouths’ where tissue I had overlapped had pulled apart slightly. Interesting, easily fixed with some 240 grit sanding, showing that the drying period is longer than it would appear. At least for filler/primer which is a much thicker substance than just spray paint. With the sanding, I had not appreciated the difference between the grades say from 240 upwards (or is it downwards) as my experience was with doorframes and floorboards. For the stage I am at, 240 and 400 seem very effective and leave a good surface. What I did find was how important dust becomes……………… The sandpaper rides on it (the powdery dust) and so becomes much less effective and I found brushing with a thin 2 inch brush worked well, using the vacuum cleaner to clear up later. I did try blowing it off with the heat gun but that put the dust up in the air too much. It is my intention to try ‘wet and dry’ approach for later coats and looking for a better answer when it comes to finishing coats. Another interesting discovery was coverage per rattle can. It may be my ‘beginner’ technique, but it seems to take a lot of paint. On this size of boat hull, 44inches (112cm) by 14 inches (36 cm), it took a 500ml rattle can of yellow filler/primer for three coats. For two coats of the red primer it took the whole of a 300ml can. Also discovered, using these ‘rattle cans’ for the first time, that the primer on its own comes out differently to the filler primer. This unsettled me for a minute or so but appreciate may be due to the different density so will be aware next time. Another issue that became obvious was…………..I must improve my ‘masking off’ ! So that is it so far. Next stage is - going to buy a couple more cans for the finishing coats, do a bath test, mark the white line point, more sanding down and then start applying the finishing coats. Any helpful comments will be much appreciated. NPJ

Painting by mturpin013 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
If you intend to stain the wood don't use sanding sealer first as the name suggests it seals so your stain won't take. as for simulated planking I suggest you sand the deck as smooth as possible (down to 1000 grit paper) and the using a scalpel type blade score the deck lines, but be careful as any slip will show on the final deck. After scoring the lines use a stain to rub over the deck and immediately remove the excess with a cloth, the stain will have more effect in the scores thus showing deck lines. When dry remove any excess with white spirit and leave to thoroughly dry, then sand again. This should leave you with a planked deck look which can now be sealed followed by coats of lacquer - Halfords do a clear lacquer. I suggest you try on a piece of scrap ply first. good luck

Sticking and Spraying by cormorant Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
Good to see someone else is using Halfords shake and rattle. I often use it as a primer/filler and a top coat. Excellent results.

Sticking and Spraying by NPJ Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
Now what are you moaning about? Is this not the build blog? I am working on a tablet and struggling............ The colour was Halfords choice. The only filler/primer in a fifteen mile radius! Will have more detail on the progress when matters are back to what passes for normal. TTFN NPJ

Stern Light by Elsrickle Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 3 months ago
Always listen to any advice am trying the Halfords texture grey on the decks with sea grey roof tops and light grey sides.busy with the deck and roof fittings at the moment still looking for a tow hook and lift Davit might just try to make one but getting right dimensions is the problem. Hope you putting on some photos when complete

46Firefloat Mk2 paint by Elsrickle Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 5 months ago
I’ll give the halfords textured paint a try. Just tried the non slip with common salt looked good but a bit too course. Look forward to hearing what fittings you put on line. The lift davit seems to be difficult to find was planning on making it myself if nothing found. Ian

46Firefloat Mk2 paint by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 5 months ago
SLEC seem like a decent outfit to me. If they are happy to send you only what you're missing that's excellent. I might make the master of the davit and hook available as a white metal casting. I have a friendly caster literally round the corner to me! I'll put news of products on here. Happy to help. BTW, one of our members here did a superb job on the 46" version and used a textured paint from Halfords. I've not had the inclination to follow it up yet in this damned heat, but will do as soon as it cools down a bit. Cheers, Martin

Trent deck colour by Flack Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 5 months ago
Thanks once again for the information. I have found that the "sprinkling sand" method of recreating the non slip surface can be a little hit and miss unless you take exceptional care to get the covering uniform. Instead I have used a can of textured spray paint available from Halfords and then overpainted it with my chosen colour. Regards Shaun

Crash Tender davit info... by mturpin013 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 6 months ago
Thanks for the reminder Iv'e just reserved a tin of textured paint from Halfords and Ref the colour scheme, I am thinking of joining the York model boat club and at an open day a few weeks ago I was talking to a club rep who actually served on the two RAF boats I will try and contact him and ask the question