I have always used rattle cans from Halfords and or The Range. Beware of mixing different types of paints i.e. cellulose, acrylic and enamel. I have had a disaster with mixing paints that took weeks to strip the hull back to sort out.
A friend of mine (Cormorant on here) builds reasonably big models and he normally uses rattle cans from Halfords with good results. Have look at his posts as he has gone into paints here himself. Chris
Thanks for that Martin I will fix with metric studding and put a nut on underside of hull. Remove parts and spray deck first . Might go for Halfords Polar Grey as nobody has come up with any other suggestions. Alan
4 years ago I restored an old 34 inch Aerokits Crash tender. I used filler for any gaps in the joints then prepared the hull with sanding sealer having got it really smooth. For the rest of the paintwork I first used Halfords primer then used their acrylic for the final colours. I gave it four coats of colour leaving it over a day between each coat. When painting was finished and after checking it was fully dry, I rubbed the hull down lightly using Maguires scratch remover, (also from Halfords) and got a nice shine between the deck and the red waterline. It seems to have lasted well as it has not crazed over this amount of time. The total cost of the primer, paint and especially the scratch remover was not cheap but in the long run it did work. Boaty🤓
I've always used the Halfords rattle cans for all my boats and never had any problems. Are you using a tacky cloth before you sprayed your boats ? As I have found it helps to remove any oily/greasy deposits , I always wipe down after each coat of paint after rubbing down with wet and dry 2500grit paper .
A couple of years ago i scratch built a 1/24 scale Vosper Long boat MTB 510. I spray painted the hull and super structure with Halfords white and gray primer. The Hull was given coat of Matt clear laquer Spray (Plasticote). The deck and super structure were also coated in a matt laquer spray. This product was Rustoleum Crystal Clear Matt Laquer. I have used this product before on acrylic base paints, and had no problems. Do not use on oil based paints as it will crinkle the surface. The Plasticote product i used on the Hull was fine at the time but a couple of years on the surface has become crazed. so i will have to repaint the complete hull sometime in the future. Can any one out there recommend a paint combination or product that is satisfactory, and will not craze like an old masters oil painting from the 1500s.
Back to the main hull Have finally got the hull sprayed today with this heat it has been drying faster than I can spray it on 😄 Firstly the hull was sanded with a 200grit paper to sand of the shiny coating to give the paint something to key too. It has had three coats of undercoat sanded with 2500grít wet and dry paper between each coat.the undercoat used was Halfords rattle can plastic primer. Then the lower hull colour was sprayed on again three coats sanded with 2500grit paper between each coat.colour used was Halfords rattle can ford arctic blue. the top half of the hull was sprayed with two coats only with it being black plus I didn't have enough paint to give it a third coat😋 colour used was Halfords rattle can satin black. Finally the hull was sprayed with Halfords rattle can clear lacquer three coats sanded with 2500grit paper between each coat.
Hi Peter, if you have a car paint suppliers in your area, they do pro' sizes of paint, also can colour match, sanding sheets in pro' packs, and filler in larger sizes, all a lot cheaper than Halfords etc.
Thanks Kevin. A model shop just gave me a good tip. Buy a car screen washer pump for the water cannon on my new project Police boat. They said it would be cheaper than the model pump. Halfords next place to visit. Glad I could be of help Doug. I have bought the 50cal. guns to match the carriages. The assembly instructions are available on the site. Still worried about breaking them whilst removing them from the sprue.🤔I am a precision engineer but this still fills me with nerves.😱
Last couple of days has seen some detailing added to the rear cabin using the Waveney Lifeboats book for reference. all bits n bobs have been scratch built and are the general bits that seem to have been added to most of the 22 Waveneys that were in service with the RNLI. The cabin was was then primed before adding rivet detail using a cocktail stick and PVa glue blobs. The whole thing has had 3 coats of VW Halfords orange spray. Shall leave that to harden overnight before I detail paint the roof grab rail, add the black anti-dazzle panel and the name panels made from official RNLI vinyl lettering. The whole thing will get a couple of coats of laquer and then will be considered finished!
Doors by AlanP Fleet Admiral! Posted: 3 months ago
Hi Colin, I think the wood for the doors is about 2mm thick, a thin strip slightly wider than 2mm of plasticard is super glued around the edge, then using wet and dry sanded flush front and back. After drilling the hole for the porthole, the whole lot was given a couple of coats of Halfords clear lacquer and the knob stuck on. 👍
I have used Halfords acrylic when restoring an old Aerokits Fireboat. However, it was not the easiest paint to work with and only got a good finish when everything was stripped down to the bare wood. I applied sanding sealer followed by Halfords primer then built up several coats of acrylic , leaving 3 hours between coats. When finished I used rubbing compound to get a good gloss. I am sure there must be better methods of painting model boats especially vintage ones that have already had coats of paint in the past.😁
Colin and Richard, the answer to the gloss finish, all of Halfords range is Acrylic, so it does not have a super gloss finish like celulose, when you are happy with the depth of colour, flat back with 1200 - 2000 paper, tacrag the surface, then over spray with a clear cote, to give the final finish Mark