Hi Peter, if you have a car paint suppliers in your area, they do pro' sizes of paint, also can colour match, sanding sheets in pro' packs, and filler in larger sizes, all a lot cheaper than Halfords etc.
Thanks Kevin. A model shop just gave me a good tip. Buy a car screen washer pump for the water cannon on my new project Police boat. They said it would be cheaper than the model pump. Halfords next place to visit. Glad I could be of help Doug. I have bought the 50cal. guns to match the carriages. The assembly instructions are available on the site. Still worried about breaking them whilst removing them from the sprue.🤔I am a precision engineer but this still fills me with nerves.😱
Last couple of days has seen some detailing added to the rear cabin using the Waveney Lifeboats book for reference. all bits n bobs have been scratch built and are the general bits that seem to have been added to most of the 22 Waveneys that were in service with the RNLI. The cabin was was then primed before adding rivet detail using a cocktail stick and PVa glue blobs. The whole thing has had 3 coats of VW Halfords orange spray. Shall leave that to harden overnight before I detail paint the roof grab rail, add the black anti-dazzle panel and the name panels made from official RNLI vinyl lettering. The whole thing will get a couple of coats of laquer and then will be considered finished!
Hi Colin, I think the wood for the doors is about 2mm thick, a thin strip slightly wider than 2mm of plasticard is super glued around the edge, then using wet and dry sanded flush front and back. After drilling the hole for the porthole, the whole lot was given a couple of coats of Halfords clear lacquer and the knob stuck on. 👍
I have used Halfords acrylic when restoring an old Aerokits Fireboat. However, it was not the easiest paint to work with and only got a good finish when everything was stripped down to the bare wood. I applied sanding sealer followed by Halfords primer then built up several coats of acrylic , leaving 3 hours between coats. When finished I used rubbing compound to get a good gloss. I am sure there must be better methods of painting model boats especially vintage ones that have already had coats of paint in the past.😁
Colin and Richard, the answer to the gloss finish, all of Halfords range is Acrylic, so it does not have a super gloss finish like celulose, when you are happy with the depth of colour, flat back with 1200 - 2000 paper, tacrag the surface, then over spray with a clear cote, to give the final finish Mark
I found similar problems when repairing vintage boats, I also use Ezecote and ultra fine glass cloth. But have moved away from halfords car paint as the gloss was quite poor so have changed to Plasticote high gloss which I buy from the Range. The gloss is great and drying is quite quick if temperatures stay above 15degrees c. Hope this is helpful, cheers Colin.
After modding my Sea Queen with the new prop shaft I decided to smarten it up as the previous spray job I did was not too good, well I have had terrible trouble with it, the first attempt saw the original paint raise as I sprayed it with a primer that was supposed to be safe with all paints, so I removed as much as i could using the heat gun and a scraper, after sanding down and filling, I started again, i had some small patches raise up where I could not get the original paint completely removed, but after letting it dry and some wet and dry I managed to get a good primer coat on it. I then decided to spray it all white, so as I have always had good results with halfords own brand I gave it some light coats of white gloss, I was unable to get a reasonable gloss finish and it also needed some more filling, funny how a gloss coat show up all the defects, well subsequent attempts at spraying were useless, run after run and a poor gloss finish. All I can think is that I could not have had the area blanketed off in the workshop warm enough and the thinners in the paint was not drying as it hit the boat and just ran. I am now half way into sanding it all back and have decided to hand paint, What is the best paint and method to getting a near spray paint finish by hand brushing?
Hi Falmouth. I have been using Halfords car spray cans and provided you prepare the surface well, the results are more than satisfactory. The cans are not too expensive and I use a wax car polish to enhance the finish. Here's one I prepared earlier. Volkswagen brilliant orange and gloss black. Hope this helps. Steve
Hull formers in and setting. Duct finished and primed ready to recieve VW brilliant orange from a Halfords rattle can. Im scrapping the Depron cabin and making the sides from 1mm ply/2mm balsa lamination for extra strength. Not worried about the extra weight as on Palaforms site you can get a liteply cabin conversion. Infact, Im not too worried about the extra weight that will be added in the build as the manual does state that it maybe required to add extra weight in the form of a battery or similar for on water use in a breeze to prevent the craft flipping over. I shall be saving weight with my motor, esc, lipo combo anyway.
Hi John, Lets take your questions one at a time. Surface prep. Close joints are always good but not essential, glueing plastic involves a form of welding, ie the surfaces melt together forming a filler as well as a glue. Plastic weld is a model railway product which is very good, it's a liquid applied with a brush and the pieces are held until the liquid evaporates. Prep all surfaces as there might be release agents and / or fingerprints on the surface, washing up liquid is great for this, also when ready for painting wash again and lightly scuff the surface with fine wet and dry paper, (600 grade). Epoxy. Is not a good glue for plastic hulls and superstructures as they flex and move, epoxy is brittle and will fail over time. Finish painting with a plastic primer, (Halfords) this gives a flexible basecote, then paint as desired, i use car type acrylic paints, if you want a colour not as a car, you can get paint made up to your spec. In short, Liquid poly glue, clean before the build and when ready for paint. Hope this helps Mark
Had a couple of hours of good light after work so cracked on a bit more. Finished the last Bulwark and all the splash boards (if thats what they are called?), sanded and sealed. Last job of the day was to spend some time masking the whole hull leaving just the deck available for a few coats of Halfords grey primer which will be the final deck colour. No more work until saturday now, but next thing is to continue masking leaving the Bulwarks available for spraying white. This to be followed by stanchions, rope work, anchor and some weathering before a final few coats of laquer (Less the deck that will be matt varnished. Still a few jobs beyond all this inc bath test and ballast as required and a few other bits n bobs, but she's getting there!
Have given the hull a few coats of hull red (Halfords red primer is close enough!). Have also added the red trim line at the top of the hull, most of which will disapear once the black rubbing strake is in place and its been masked off for the blue. Will leave this to fully harden overnight before I start masking for the blue band. I am planning on having a straight water line between the red hull and the blue with a white trimline strip to seperate them. I could mask and spray the white trim line, but using a vinyl trimline which I use alot of in RC aircraft will give a much neater finish. So, once the blue has been applied, I will give the whole hull a light coat of laquer and will then add the trimline, "Douglas Currie" gold lettering and RNLI flags before a final couple of coats of laquer to seal it all in.