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I have used Halfords acrylic when restoring an old Aerokits Fireboat. However, it was not the easiest paint to work with and only got a good finish when everything was stripped down to the bare wood. I applied sanding sealer followed by Halfords primer then built up several coats of acrylic , leaving 3 hours between coats. When finished I used rubbing compound to get a good gloss. I am sure there must be better methods of painting model boats especially vintage ones that have already had coats of paint in the past.😁
Colin and Richard, the answer to the gloss finish, all of Halfords range is Acrylic, so it does not have a super gloss finish like celulose, when you are happy with the depth of colour, flat back with 1200 - 2000 paper, tacrag the surface, then over spray with a clear cote, to give the final finish Mark
I found similar problems when repairing vintage boats, I also use Ezecote and ultra fine glass cloth. But have moved away from halfords car paint as the gloss was quite poor so have changed to Plasticote high gloss which I buy from the Range. The gloss is great and drying is quite quick if temperatures stay above 15degrees c. Hope this is helpful, cheers Colin.
After modding my Sea Queen with the new prop shaft I decided to smarten it up as the previous spray job I did was not too good, well I have had terrible trouble with it, the first attempt saw the original paint raise as I sprayed it with a primer that was supposed to be safe with all paints, so I removed as much as i could using the heat gun and a scraper, after sanding down and filling, I started again, i had some small patches raise up where I could not get the original paint completely removed, but after letting it dry and some wet and dry I managed to get a good primer coat on it. I then decided to spray it all white, so as I have always had good results with halfords own brand I gave it some light coats of white gloss, I was unable to get a reasonable gloss finish and it also needed some more filling, funny how a gloss coat show up all the defects, well subsequent attempts at spraying were useless, run after run and a poor gloss finish. All I can think is that I could not have had the area blanketed off in the workshop warm enough and the thinners in the paint was not drying as it hit the boat and just ran. I am now half way into sanding it all back and have decided to hand paint, What is the best paint and method to getting a near spray paint finish by hand brushing?
Hi Falmouth. I have been using Halfords car spray cans and provided you prepare the surface well, the results are more than satisfactory. The cans are not too expensive and I use a wax car polish to enhance the finish. Here's one I prepared earlier. Volkswagen brilliant orange and gloss black. Hope this helps. Steve
Hull formers in and setting. Duct finished and primed ready to recieve VW brilliant orange from a Halfords rattle can. Im scrapping the Depron cabin and making the sides from 1mm ply/2mm balsa lamination for extra strength. Not worried about the extra weight as on Palaforms site you can get a liteply cabin conversion. Infact, Im not too worried about the extra weight that will be added in the build as the manual does state that it maybe required to add extra weight in the form of a battery or similar for on water use in a breeze to prevent the craft flipping over. I shall be saving weight with my motor, esc, lipo combo anyway.
Hi John, Lets take your questions one at a time. Surface prep. Close joints are always good but not essential, glueing plastic involves a form of welding, ie the surfaces melt together forming a filler as well as a glue. Plastic weld is a model railway product which is very good, it's a liquid applied with a brush and the pieces are held until the liquid evaporates. Prep all surfaces as there might be release agents and / or fingerprints on the surface, washing up liquid is great for this, also when ready for painting wash again and lightly scuff the surface with fine wet and dry paper, (600 grade). Epoxy. Is not a good glue for plastic hulls and superstructures as they flex and move, epoxy is brittle and will fail over time. Finish painting with a plastic primer, (Halfords) this gives a flexible basecote, then paint as desired, i use car type acrylic paints, if you want a colour not as a car, you can get paint made up to your spec. In short, Liquid poly glue, clean before the build and when ready for paint. Hope this helps Mark
Had a couple of hours of good light after work so cracked on a bit more. Finished the last Bulwark and all the splash boards (if thats what they are called?), sanded and sealed. Last job of the day was to spend some time masking the whole hull leaving just the deck available for a few coats of Halfords grey primer which will be the final deck colour. No more work until saturday now, but next thing is to continue masking leaving the Bulwarks available for spraying white. This to be followed by stanchions, rope work, anchor and some weathering before a final few coats of laquer (Less the deck that will be matt varnished. Still a few jobs beyond all this inc bath test and ballast as required and a few other bits n bobs, but she's getting there!
Have given the hull a few coats of hull red (Halfords red primer is close enough!). Have also added the red trim line at the top of the hull, most of which will disapear once the black rubbing strake is in place and its been masked off for the blue. Will leave this to fully harden overnight before I start masking for the blue band. I am planning on having a straight water line between the red hull and the blue with a white trimline strip to seperate them. I could mask and spray the white trim line, but using a vinyl trimline which I use alot of in RC aircraft will give a much neater finish. So, once the blue has been applied, I will give the whole hull a light coat of laquer and will then add the trimline, "Douglas Currie" gold lettering and RNLI flags before a final couple of coats of laquer to seal it all in.
Hi mark, many thanks for your input. I have planked before on those "wonderful" De Agostini part works I.e Bismarck, HMS Victory etc. However planning on sheet covering the hull using the templates on 1.5mm ply I have. I also plan to use a coating of finishing resin inside and out but will not be glass clothing as I'm informed it's not necessary. This of course after any required filing gaps, will then prime, sand, prime again and finish using Halfords rattle cans. As for household warefare! Thankfully I get lots of weekdays off when "she who must be obeyed" is at work, the Hoover works overtime before my understanding wife arrives home from work lol
Hi Chris, no you don't need 70A wire! 😊 That might be horribly thick and stiff for a scale boat. You need wire the same size as probably on both your motor and battery. Same the 'standard' wiring in cars. Available I suppose at Halfords and any car diy shop. WHAT YOU DO NEED IS A 15 OR 20 Amp FUSE TO PROTECT THE WIRING IF THE MOTOR STALLS (PROP GETS BLOCKED) 😡 If your ESC has a BEC supply for the RX put the fuse in the positive motor lead, probably red or yellow. If not, i.e. you have a separate battery supply, put the fuse in the positive lead from drive battery to ESC. Then at least the RX will still work and maybe you can see from shore if it still responds; e.g. by switching on lights or some other visible function. With twin or more props fusing the motor wire itself can sometimes help get the boat home on a remaining engine. Somewhere in the Electrical stuff blog is a long discussion on the subject! Have a look here https://model-boats.com/forum/electrical-related/28332 "What type of wire?" Happy sailing 👍 Cheers Doug 😎 PS: Almost forgot, if you have a brushless motor you have no choice but to put the fuse in the positive wire from battery to ESC! Brushless ain't got no positive!
Hi Joe I guess this is a follow on from your last request re charging batteries in the boat. Your tandem is usually referred to as parallel connected where the positive terminals on each battery are connected together as are the negative terminals. This will give you 12 volts but double the Amphr capacity in your case to 24Amphr. Is this to be used in the fishing boat with the working winch? As Doug advised the total expected current draw will determine the cable required and you should protect this with a fuse in the positive lead from the batteries. If you can run separate cables from the battery to the ESC and the winch control then they will only need to carry the current for that device. Again each cable should have an appropriate fuse. As regards the charging lead this will be less than 5 amps and your SLA will have suitable leads. I would not recommend charging SLA's in parallel as in my experience one always charges first and the charger goes into trickle mode leaving one battery undercharged. I thinke you will need to have the two positive battery connections accessible so you can charge each separately. Halfords have a range of cables which should cover your requirements and also have fuses. Cheers Dave
A full set of laser cut perspex windows is supplied in the VMW kit along with corresponding frames for all and they are all a pretty good fit in the window apertures of the engine room, forward cabin and wheel house rear walls, only requiring a light easing with a file for a secure fit. I left the protective film on the screens whilst gluing them in place with a very small amount of canopy glue applied to the window edges with a dressmaking pin and pressed into place so that they were flush with the outside of the cabin walls. The wheelhouse windows were a bit trickier as they are glued to the inside face of the panels and I had to remove the protective film around the edges of the outer face of the windows by running a fine sharp blade around the window aperture with the perspex held in place by hand. Canopy glue was then used very sparingly on the face of the perspex and the windows clamped in place. The central screen of the wheelhouse has the Kent Clearview in it and this needed to be carefully centred before fixing in place. When all had dried and set the protective films were peeled off to reveal nice clear ‘panes’ without any unsightly glue smudges. The CNC cut window frames are made from a flexible plastic material with accurate and well defined edges. They were all given a light sanding with abrasive paper as a key for the paint and were then laid out on a large piece of card paying particular attention to getting them the correct side up, in particular the wheelhouse frames which are ‘handed’ for either port or starboard. They were all held to the board with small pads of double sided foam tape and sprayed with two coats of Halfords metallic silver paint followed by two light coats of Halfords gloss lacquer. After a couple of days to dry they were removed from the board and fixed in place with canopy glue applied with a pin as very small dots around the inside face, aligned with masking tape ‘guides’ and a straight edge and then held in place with small tabs of masking tape. The installation of the glazing in the wheelhouse was made a lot easier because I had previously cut away some of the bulkhead and rear wall to give better access to the wheelhouse interior for detailing. This is not mentioned in the building instructions but is well worth doing for all the above reasons 😁
Hello, Thank you, BUt the camera lies..! I did think i had cracked it last year, by masking up the the varnished parts after a long drying time, and then continue with the painting..A month or so later, when all was done, i tried to remove the masking tape/newspaper, but found the tape had stuck hard and was a dickens of a job to clean off, it also left residue of glue on the varnish so looked pretty terrible. Talcum powder did work, sprinkling it on the offending residue and rolling it along the deck, but not 100%.. As a footnote, i used Wilko spray enamel on this one's hull with undercoat/primer, all spray cans.. Cheaper than Halfords.. But Halfords were doing 4 spray cans for the price of 3.. The cabin was hand painted with Humbrol enamel.. Muddy