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>> Home > Tags > heat shrink

heat shrink
shrimp boat
heat gun
heat shrink
Motor, mount & prop-shaft. by robbob Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 6 days ago
The prop-shaft, coupling and motor mount that I ordered from ModelBoatBits has arrived so it seems a good a good time to make up a supporting wedge for the mount to fix to. I do have a rigid brass motor alignment aid that I used when building the Crash Tender but do you think I can find it in the workshop?....nope! 😡 I expect it will turn up when I need it least! 🤞 Not wanting to waste time I used a length of heat shrink tubing over the motor coupling to make it as rigid as possible, a trick I had seen done elsewhere, and this enabled me to position the motor on its mount in the desired position and measure the angle that the mounting wedge needs to be made to. I used an offcut of beech that I had in the workshop which I cut to size and then shaped it on the rotary sander that I bought in Lidl, fantastic piece of kit !!. The wedge was then drilled to take the nylon motor mount and also the fixing screws that pass through the beech block, through the balsa base of the box and into the ply reinforcing plate that I put in during early construction of the hull. After cleaning up the hole through the keel the prop-shaft was keyed with some abrasive, smeared with some epoxy and then pushed through to mate with the motor coupling. I used the excess epoxy resin around the shaft inside the hull and used some packing tape to stop it running out when I inverted the hull to seal the lower end. A quick spin on the motor confirmed that the alignment was spot-on and the hull set aside while the epoxy set. The next step will be to plank the deck.

Ships-Ladder by Joe727 Captain   Posted: 12 days ago
Back at it this afternoon, handrails are very solid after overnight cure. Trimmed the rail ends to the necessary length. Glued in place. Built a ships ladder, first time for this, think it will work. Need to get ships ladder set to finalize railing. Ladder railing is seen in photo, I make bends like on this by applying heat and bending with my fingers. Styrene gets very flexible with heat, but can quickly melt if not careful. I learned not to use my heat gun (used for shrink tubing in my electronics) as it quickly gets out of control. I usually boil water, let it sit and dip the plastic in and out. Easy way to control bends. Joe

Sanding done by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi Steve, many real IMM rod antennas I worked with were not tapered. So any metal / plastic rod of suitable diameter painted white would do. The relatively short (1m) whips are not always tapered either. If you go piano wire & heatshrink you could put a nice sweep-back into it by lightly bending it back while shrinking. When cool it will hold the shape. Here's a link to the supplier we most often used for the professional 'stick' (we called 'em rod) VHF IMM antenna, with a drawing. http://www.aas.de/special-antennas/vhf-tx-rx-antennas/104-st... Memory playing tricks on me🤔it's actually about 141cm top to bottom. Cheers, Doug 😎 Here's a simple 35" stainless steel whip, also not tapered https://www.ebay.com/itm/Auto-Marine-Band-Antenna-35in-VHF-C...

Sanding done by steve-d Commander   Posted: 2 months ago
Those antenna are normally tapered so I was hoping to find a soft plastic one which would take a few knocks. I could do one in piano wire but cant think of a flexible way of achieving the taper. Perhaps I am making to much of it and a piece of piano wire covered in white heatshrink will do and the lack of taper won't notice.

All hooked up, nowt happens... by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Here's a pic of the set-up, with the ESC central. Rx is in a little styrene box I made for it. Shows the motor too on its mount. Martin And yes I got the heat shrink on the battery leads the wrong way round, but had so much trouble soldering the bloody wires to that stupid t shaped plug I couldn't be arsed to change em over!

All hooked up, nowt happens... by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi Doug, as you can probably guess, I have as much chance of programming an ESC as flying with my own wings to Munich! The ESC didn't come with any instructions. I didn't know they needed them! More to the point, how the Hell can a motor beep? Where's the beeping kit in a motor with one moving part? So, now what. It's a Flysky pistol grip 3 channel (third is a switch) set of Tx and pre bound Rx. The ESC ? Gawd knows, a flat thing inside a big yellow heat shrink casing. I got it from China recently. All I can do is take a picture of it with my nice new camera tomorrow. Does it matter which way round those three wires go on the motor? I'll post pictures tomorrow. Thanks, Martin

All hooked up, nowt happens... by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hello all, since I keep the weekend for me I thought I'd try hooking up all the lecktrickery for my brushless motor. It's one of they outrunning tiddlers. I have a 3S LiPo which is firing on all cylinders at 3.79 volts per. I plug it in to the ESC, some Chinese one I got recently. I soldered wires to a T type plug that fits the Overlander battery pack. I'd already soldered the 2mm connectors to the other end of the ESC wires and protected them with heat shrink. Plugged tested (6.2 volts) Nimhs into Rx and it starts flashing, then plugged ESC into a channel and the motor, yes , the MOTOR starts beeping! How the hell can that happen? I plug the battery in and the motor beeps even quicker! What on earth is happening? Needless to say, no rotation, buzzing, whistling, just beeps from a motor, clear as you like! Please help. I am already teetering on the edge of getting rid of all my working stuff as it takes up space and is such a damned faff! But what I have, I would like to work. Just long enough to prove it all. Martin

just need cable (wire)... by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
Thanks, guys. Tried Component shop but their PayPal wouldn't let us in so we went back to ebay and found em under 4mm silicon cable. Slow boat job, but I'm not desperate. A nice blue to which I'll add red and black heat shrink I already have, but I'll keep those links, cheers, Martin

Got the bits, now what?... by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 months ago
Jim, it's a 3S Overlander which my local model shop are doing a deal on. I don't know what XT 60 is or EC3/5. I have no Deans connectors. All I have a re the 10 pairs of 4mm bullets with black and red heat shrink. I had found an adaptor from 4mm bullet to Deans male, but it's a slow boat from China by the end of November and I ain't that patient! So bullets all round, I guess. Cheers, Martin

Got the bits, now what?... by jimdogge Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 4 months ago
Hi westquay. that looks like a 2200 3 sel battery if it is and it has a black deans connector on it (they are usually yellow) in my opinion they are the best. XT60 if it is put a male xt 60 on the battery side of the esc and your own chosen bullet connectors on the esc to motor. I like to use ec3 or ec5 (depending on current draw) with a different coloured heat shrink seal, on each one. it helps if you need to reverse the the rotation of the motor. Take a look on line at the way the electric flyboys link it all together you will also get an idea of the connctions. Hope this helps. jimdogge

Got the bits, now what?... by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 months ago
OK, I bought a LiPo tother day and some connectors. This is now what I have.....a motor with little (2mm?) connectors on its wires, a 60Amp ESC with no connectors at all and an Overlander battery with a square plug on the end (Deans, is it) I also have a packet of ten 4mm bullets and heat shrink. What now? Cut the Deans connector off the battery and replace with bullets, or buy a Deans connector for the ESC to battery? Cut off the little bullets on the motor and replace with the big ones which I should put on the ESC, too? I suppose I'll have to increase the size of the hole in the ally heat plate next to the motor to accommodate the bigger bullets. Cheers, Martin

Charging NiMhs, one for Doug?... by Haverlock Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 7 months ago
find a piece of wood thick enough to take the pin of the plug and drill a hole of the needed size so the plug will sit upright with the hole for the wire to the top and will stay there without the need to hold It ( this will mean a lot less swearing because you burned yourself.) Having positioned the plug heat up the soldering iron and " tin " the inside of the hole Strip the insulation from the end of the wire to be soldered into the plug and tin the bared end. Slip the heat shrink onto the wire ( if you do not have a battery plug on yet you can leave this step out) Now put the tinned end of the wire into the hole of the plug heat with your iron on the OUTSIDE of the plug and feed solder into the hole until your happy remove heat and allow to cool give it plenty of time and give thanks for the wood because trying to hold it all while doing this HURTS

Charging NiMhs, one for Doug?... by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 7 months ago
Help, Doug!! I just bought a pack of gold plated 4mm plugs for my iMax charger. It didn't come with any! Leads for everything else, but no way of plugging them in unless they're LiPos, which I know nothing about. The plugs turned up today, BUT, the hole in the top is HUGE! How does one go about soldering a fiddly little wire into such a massive 'ole! They come with red and black heat shrink, but only for AFTER you get the battery wires into the plugs. I'm assuming I'll have an "other half" plug to plug the battery pack wire into, which I can then solder these mahusive plugs onto. Why is all this stuff so bloody difficult?! Martin

Charging NiMhs, one for Doug?... by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 7 months ago
Heat sink! That's the devil. I kept thinking heat shrink, for some reason. I see "wall wart" describing plug-in chargers for 4 cells, but why "wart" I don't know. Looks a right mess in there, Doug, but at least you know what to do. Conrad...used to go in for a nose when I was in Munich. I worked in Sauerlach for about 6 months. Loved it. Conrad seemed to have everything, especially for making working scale model trucks. Wonderful place. I really appreciate your helping me out, mate, as I haven't got a bloody clue about charging batteries. But sort your problems out first. Meanwhile I'll make some nice wee boxes to put the batteries and Rx in, to limit any chance of water ingress. Cheers, Martin

Bristol pilot cutter mascotte by kmbcsecretary Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 9 months ago
Have had a few days of as it was our clubs AGM last weekend so had a lot of paperwork to sort out. The rigging is coming along now, not rushing this as don't want any mistakes . Each rigging line and block has been stitched using matching thread to the rigging line (pic1) then a length of heat shrink tubing is placed over the stitching (pic2) . Depending how things go over next couple of days I am hoping to have the sails fitted by Monday 😎