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>> Home > Tags > high speed

high speed
speed 600
speed 900
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high speed
BRAVE BORDERER - BRUSHLESS SUMMARY by jbkiwi Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 12 days ago
The only thing you might have to watch out for is back feed from the pump out the aux tube (when moving) if you don't set up the y joints (must be y not T ) to create a venturi effect from the pump side. Doesn't matter standing still but at speed a T junction might reduce the flow as the flows will be fighting each other slightly. The beauty of the twin system is that if you are running a lot at high speed you could turn the pump off to save power. The best place to position water intakes is I have found is directly behind the prop (I usually just squash the brass tube slightly, fair it, cut it off at 45 deg and set it to just sit in the prop wash). At lower speeds especially, the prop will help to push water into the tubes rather than just relying on speed alone. Never had a problem with pickups interfering with rudder effectiveness as long as you fair the pickups nicely

Videos by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 13 days ago
H Martin, sorry it took longer than expected got bogged down in other things🤔 Sooo! Scouring the docs I could find (see attached PDF files) I was surprised not to find the usual table of Number of photos or video length vs memory available! Anyway two significant statements I did find- 1) "Movie length - up to 29 minutes" When I see 'up to' I read that as with the lowest resolution, in this case 640*480 pixels. Which you can forget; tha's like a 20+ year old PC and worse than the old UHF 605 line TV pictures.🤔 2) "Movie resolution -1280x720/ 30fps (HD). Now that's more like it😊 BUT: in the manual I then found- "The option FHD and HD only available when a Micro SDHC class 4 or higher speed class card is inserted." Soooo! get yourself a 32GB (not sure if a 64GB card will work!) memory card SDHC class 4 and awaaaay you go 👍 BTW the internal memory is only 64MB so you can forget that for video. Seems only to be used for storing user settings (made in the camera menu) and a few photos. I recommend using only the memory card for photos and above all videos. Happy shooting Mr Director, Cheers Doug 😎 BTW: '720p' just means 720 pixels (Picture cells) vertically, using Progressive scan, as opposed to Interlaced. Thought you might like to know that 😁😁

Brushless motors (again) by Haverlock Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 20 days ago
depending upon the type of motor cooling it can be a problem. Most brushless motors are out runners so the case rotates! In runners are usually for higher speed applications (or driving a gearbox). If you have an idea as to the size of IC engine the boat was intended to have then this list may be a help .049 or .051 = 100 watts 0.10 = 200 watts 0.15 = 300 watts 0.25 = 500 watts 0.32 = 640 watts 0.40 = 800 watts 0.45 = 900 watts 0.51 = 1020 watts 0.61 = 1220 watts 0.75 = 1500 watts 0.91 = 1820 watts Since Watts are Volts * Amps ( I know this is not accurate for a reactive load like an electric motor but its a rule of thumb) This gives you a ball park next point is the KV ( revs per volt) of a motor. The higher the KV the smaller the prop. Finally buy a Watt meter they are not expensive and give you a chance to " fine tune" a setup. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FT08-RC-150A-Hight-Precision-Watt... Car ESCs ( usually) have a reverse function while the airplane versions do not. They are generally cheaper than boat specific ESCs.

34" RAF Crash Tender Windows by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 28 days ago
Correct Colin, 👍 BRITISH POWERBOAT COMPANY 64ft HIGH SPEED LAUNCH TYPE 1. 1936 - 1947. http://www.rafboats.co.uk/gallery/102/ Cheers, Doug 😎

Darby One Design hydro... by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Dave , I made it. I found plans in a 1954 copy of the Motor Boat Annual I borrowed from the National Powerboat Museum at Pitsea, before the stupid bastards on the council threw it away in preference for mud huts for snotty nosed brats to go mad in. Only today I finally got some pictures from the Oulton Broad club with pics of the Darby boasts I hadn't seen, which show that the top cowling was always built a little higher than the plans show, so I shall be making some slight changes to the fixed portions. The photos show the fixed sections to be done with stringers and fabric, a la aeroplane fuselage. You can't buy decent older powerboats as kits or ready mades. Nobody gives a toss about speedboat models in this country, alas. Even though we had a very busy world of inboard race boats at one time. Now, all is boring outboards. The 1500 cc inboard classes gave us a lot of great racing just pre and post-War. Here are three in one race. "WHO'S DARBY?", Dawn, a Whippet class and Miss Windermere, another One design, like the Oulton Broad One design, all three are 1500 cc class boats. There wqere also boats of under 950cc and even a Singer Cadet class with a Singer Le Mans 1100 cc engine. The Singer Commodore had a 6 cylinder 1500, a gorgeous engine. Both Singers were designed by Percy See at Shoreham and had diagonal reverse clinker construction. I have plans if anyone is interested. Cheers, Martin

BRAVE BORDERER - BRUSHLESS SUMMARY by RHBaker Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Although have modeling experience, all my earlier vessels used brushed motors. This was my first brushless. The model is now running well, but thought, for the benefit of others considering this transition to summarize my experiences. Must stress the performance of a brushless motor is incredible when compared to a similar sized brushed; for a vessel such as this they are almost obligatory. They are worth the trouble! Had been advised that the best powertrain installation for a 37” Brave Borderer is either a single or twin screws, not three. This was good advice! Much heartache could have been avoided with a single screw installation. Unfortunately, that is not the correct layout for a scale builder. Tried three major powertrain iterations, with several variations within each group. All motors are 28mm O/D : 1) The original installation used 3 x 4600kV inrunner motors with 30 A ESCs. Had bought these items used. The motors were too fast and had little torque. The ESCs also did not have adequate capacity. The result was erratic performance, a high fuse failure rate and the eventual failure of an ESC and motor Picture #1. 2) First upgrade was to 2 x 2400kV inrunner motors, using 50A capacity ESCs. The centre shaft was fitted with a brushed motor. This combination did work, although suffered greatly from motor “squeal” and “stutter”. Eventually a motor burnt out and failed. Picture #2 3) Upgrade two: retained the 50 A ESCs, with 2 x 2600 kV outrunner motors, again with the brushed inner shaft motor. Reprogrammed the ESCs to soft start parameters. Much better, performance and reliability can now be considered acceptable. The squeal and stutter are largely corrected It has justified the challenges of getting here. Picture #3 Have tried both 2 and 3S Li-Po batteries, suggest use the minimum voltage needed to achieve the desired performance. Higher voltages translate into faster response and performance, but with less control modulation. The model can be easily overpowered. In summary, from my experience. For a marine application; chose low (under 2000kV) kV rating motors with an outrunner layout wherever possible (produce more torque than inrunners). Use ESCs with a ratings comfortably in excess of the motor ratings, fit fuses to supplement any ESC protections. Ensure the ESCs are programmed to “soft start” characteristics. Also, the obvious check of making sure shaft alignment is correct is even more important with the higher speed capability of brushless motors. In spite of the trails, cost and tribulations of getting here. Have enjoyed the challenge and the end result does justify the means. Also, do not finally fit the deck until you are satisfied with the performance. Making the changes described with limited access would have been very difficult and frustrating.

ASR 64ft R/C VID 2 by jbkiwi Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 2 months ago
Boat is Scratch built 36" British Power Boat 64ft High Speed ASR Launch which belonged to the RNZAF. The launch was one of the 22 built and was shipped to NZ in 1940. It was the only one of its type in the Southern Hemisphere. Model has twin motors, ESCs, sound units etc. Has remotely switched water pump for water cooled brushless 2000kv in runner motors and remotely switched lighting. Uses 2x 2200mah 2s LiPos for drive and 1 1800mah LiPo for the pump (also a separate battery for the LED lights. Boat is built with strip planked balsa on ply frame and fiber glassed. Deck is ply, wheelhouse is varnished balsa. The colour is as it was for most of its time in the RNZAF . Took about 5 years on and off to build and finished it last year. (please ignore the time date - can't get rid of it .

BRAVE BORDERER by jbkiwi Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 2 months ago
If you are using 2 ESCs/BEC/UBECs with 2 plugged into 1 receiver you should remove the red wire from one of the plugs and tape it back to the lead, as both plugged in will possibly supply too much voltage for the receiver (you are getting double the voltage from 2 different sources) and this can cause the ESC to stutter . You should have no problems with Brushless out-runner motors as with the correct match with the ESC they should be as smooth as brushed. I have dual 2000kv 28/45 in-runners (with water jackets) and twin ESCs and 2 sound units using 1 receiver in my 64ft ASR model with no problems regarding proportional control (fwd or rev). I had a 28mm O/R in a Maiami ASR and it would crawl along (but the high noise was ear wrecking so have changed it back to brushed for now. I do have a similar slight high pitched squeal at certain speeds on one motor and this may be caused by the particular motor not 'syncing'properly with the ESC (Chinese cheap ESCs and HobbyKing /made in china motors) but short of changing that motor and ESC I am just putting up with it for now. The high pitched sync noise is fairly common and sometimes not fixable, (a number of my larger planes do it and its audible from 100m away (also amplified by a hull,-nice sound box). It can depend on the way a particular motor is wound (no 2 are identical) or even magnet placement/timing, as the may be hand wound by 2 very nice Chinese ladies at different ends of a bench ( just read some of the Hobby King motor reviews ) You could try changing the frequency on the ESC if it has that option as a higher motor Kv sometimes requires a higher frequency. Also make sure your ESC is set to the correct battery cell count. If it has an auto setting that should usually work best for general applications unless you are running fancy motors. Regarding interference, make sure you keep your aerial as far as poss from the motors and ESCs (even on 2.4 - I put mine right up in the bow) and there should be no problems. I have had 2 twin engined boats (my MTB & ASR) 1 brushed and 1 brushless running side by side 10" apart using the same radio for both (same type of Rec in each boat) with no problems at all. The bow down is probably prop shaft angle (the shallower the better) but if you are using counter rotating props you could try swapping props (inward rotation to outward) and motor rotation to see if it makes a difference. Also with 2800Kv motors you should be using small props (around 28-30mm diam 3 blade) as these motors are made to rev) as on a 2s battery they will be turning at around 20,000 dry and perhaps 18,000 wet (depending on prop) and if you load them too much they will cook with no cooling (assuming they are around 28mm dia ?) Only other thought - silicone couplings will squeal real loud if they slip.

BRAVE BORDERER by RHBaker Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Doug, Am sure it can do both of those! So far, have not had a high speed run long enough to really test the brass shafts. I hope to only need to use it for a couple of test runs shortly before will dismantle, make those upgrades and then finish the model over the winter. Rowen

Italeri P.T 109 by boaty Admiral   Posted: 2 months ago
I bought an Italeri PT109 kit in 2011. It took 4 months to build as I had other projects on at the time. I notices the high quality of the parts, especially the hull and the actual paint finish was very easy due to it being plastic and got the nearest colour match by using Humbrol spray acrylic of Grass Green with Regency Red acrylic for the waterline and below. Difficult decision was as to build as a triple screw to maintain scale or go for the single screw. I eventually went for the latter with just one rudder. Power was by a 480 brushed flight motor with a 30 amp esc which was a bit over the top as power was by a 2200mAh 2S Lipo but the esc was the only one they had in the shop. Getting the motor installed was very straight forward as it was done before the deck was fitted but I had to make the aft cabin detachable for access to taking the battery in and out and also lubricating the propshaft .The boat performed well at scale speed but got slightly out of shape when full power was applied, appearing more as a fast electric. Overall the boat was ideal for smaller ponds (providing it was not running flat out). The outcome was a well detailed model that appeared like the real thing on the water but I would not recommend sailing it in rough conditions.. Boaty😁

BRAVE BORDERER by RHBaker Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Been researching the squeal and stutter on other websites and conclude RFI is probably not the major contributor. Others attribute it to a mismatch in the ESC / motor timing, which seems more likely. Whatever caused it, resulted in the affected motor failing. Which came first, the failure causing squeal or squeal causing failure is open to conjecture. Much to my surprise the manufacturer has decided to replace the motor under warranty. In the meantime, the motors I had planned to use originally (2800kV Outrunners) came into stock, so purchased a couple. Until now have had to use the ESC default settings as did not have a programming card. This also arrived with the motors. Following advice from another contributor reprogrammed the motors with “softer” start and acceleration settings. Fitted and tried the new motors and settings. On the bench, the squeal and stutter have almost gone. The motors are also more tractable. As the brushless motors are now going to be used for high speed operation only, with slow on the centre brushed, thought could simplify the controls by putting the brushless ESCs on one control system using a “Y” lead. However, this introduced inconsistent and erratic motor responses. Reverted to the two previous separate controls, port and starboard. On the water the performance is fine, as is the reliability. The 2S battery gave almost half an hours operation. The bow lifts nicely with both 2 & 3 S Batteries; plenty of spray. Hopefully resembling a 50 knot vessel! Another adjustment is needed to the transom flaps to try to hold the bow down later as she accelerates. Feeling now to finally be making progress with this model. The squeal has not gone, nor has erratic motor operation. The squeal is high pitched screech, rather like treading on a budgie! When it happens, bringing the control back to neutral and advancing it again almost always overcomes it. The erratic operation happens also when starting and is rather like the motors are not getting a signal to react to the control. Again, returning through neutral briefly seems to correct it. The revised motors and ESCs have increased the weight to 6lbs for the hull including all running gear, excluding batteries and superstructure. Whilst still trying to control weight have concluded this figure is satisfactory as the performance certainly is.

Chine Spray Rails by Colin H. Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
Spray rails tend not stop heeling, on tight high speed turns they will dig in causing a heel, you could fit adjustable stabilisers on the lower transom like on racing boats. Cheers Colin.

HMS Sabre, Scimitar-class preceded by Archer-Class by CB90 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
[Score: 5/10] 26"/1400g HMS Sabre, Scimitar-class preceded by Archer-Class Capable of 12mph and a runtime of 15mins Single Propellor (3 Blade 35mm) Direct Drive Powered by LiPoly (7.4v) 3Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through China 60A (30Amps) ESC - Comments: Just finish this little boat, need to have its first trial on the water to measure current draw and perhaps modify the prop size. Make sure water cooling works, and the thing steers ok, as rudder is off set. and may have to be move into the prop wash. The Motor 3650 4Poles 3060KV Brushless RC Motor for 1/10 RC Car Boat 1. 4Poles design, high torque and high efficiency. The overall efficiency exceed 90 percent. 2. Low heat production, long lifetime, strong overload protection and it can function 95% of its features without any heat sink appliance. 3. High quality materials adopted: high intense aluminum alloy anodizing shell , front and back cover , high-performance temperature-resistant magnetic steel and imported high-speed bearing. Specifications: Model: XTI-3650/4.5D Dimension: 50 * 36mm KV(RPM/V): 3060KV Poles: 4 Max Power: 1300W Max Voltage: 19V Max Amps: 68A Shaft Diameter: 3.2mm Shaft Length: 15mm Connector: 5.0mm Banana Connector. The real boat Builders: Halmatic Operators:  Royal Navy Preceded by: Archer class In commission: 2003 – Active: 2 General characteristics Type: Patrol boat Displacement: 24 tonnes (24 long tons) Length: 16 m (52 ft 6 in) Beam: 3.1 m (10 ft 2 in) Draught: 1.2 m (3 ft 11 in) Propulsion: 2 × MAN 2480LXE diesels, 2 shafts Speed: 32 knots (37 mph; 59 km/h) Range: 260 nm (480 km) at 19 kn (35 km/h) Complement: 5 (1 officer, 4 ratings) Sensors and processing systems: Racal-Decca Bridge-master 360, I band navigation radar Armament: 2 × General purpose machine guns (stern-mounted)

she sails! by Skydive130 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
I was hoping to get the Wavney on the water yesterday, but the weather gods put paid to that! Anyway, today was the day, so after adding almost 2kg of lead ballast fore and aft to get her on the waterline, it was off to Needham Lakes near Stowmarket, Suffolk. The initial sailing report is that she looks fantastic on the water despite it being a little choppy in the wind. The motors, ESC's performed perfectly, steering needs no adjusting and and at full tilt looked scale with a really nice bow wave. After 20 minutes of sailing which only dropped the 3S lipo down my 30%, all was well apart from a tiny little bit of water ingress at the back near the rudders. I can only put this down to water ingress from high speed passes as the bow wave created a little puddle of water on the rear deck. I know the hull is watertight as she was sat in the hot tub for an hour this morning and was as dry as bone following that. Will have to look at sealing the removable rear cabin as I think thats where the water got in?

Graupner Jumbo 540 motors by CB90 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
I think it would be worth the risk of running the DC Motors at 7.2v (NiMh) or second choise 7.4v (Lipo) and get rid of the 6v lead acid battery. The chance of damaging the motor is limited, the battery packs will be lighter than an equivalent lead acid, but will need to by a charger as well. Always put a fuse in line rated 5 amps below that of the ESC. Or buy two higher voltage motor? only £6.99 each plus P&P link copy and paste into browser address:- https://howesmodels.co.uk/product/graupner-speed-600-8-4v-mo...