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>> Home > Tags > hobby

hobby
hobbycraft
hobbyking
my hobby store
hobby
Guestbook Post by Bryan-the-pirate Lieutenant   Posted: 5 days ago
I have just joined and am looking to pick the brains of the best as I progress in the hobby.👍

Painting starts-radio gear in! by robbob Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 7 days ago
I can't do fast but I can do fastidious 😜 At best I can do a few hours one or two evenings a week and perhaps a whole day at the weekend. Work - life - hobby balance and all that, gotta keep swmbo happy 😉.

Sea Queen Spray Rails by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 9 days ago
Yes some more recent models, predominantly made for racing do have moulded rails along the bottom. Two reasons, one to add strength, especially if of thin material and secondly to provide lateral stability at the high speeds encountered. When the Aerokits were designed in around 1960s plastic was not commonly available to hobbyists and models were designed using wood/plywood and the originals did not even have spray rails fitted. The running gear was also heavy and bulky resulting in much heavier models than are possible today so the hulls did not plane so easily and the rails were not needed for most models. Technology can now turn out hulls in bulk using extruded and formed plastic and the rails add to the strength to help keep the shape. You can see this on most plastic packaging used for consumer items

Another model shop to close. by AndyG009 Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 11 days ago
Hi marky No I don't remember "Central Wood Crafts", until I went to Saudi Arabia in 1978 mostly interested in Model Railways (still am). In Saudi took up flying (models that is) as a hobby - Day job was to keep a Lightning Simulator 'Flying' (proper aircraft the Lightning).

Happy Hunter by jarvo Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 14 days ago
No worries mate, have the esc's got a max and min voltage??? they may not work at 6volts, if not then a set of 7.2v NimH packs will be brilliant x2 or possibly 4 packs with a Y lead for each pair, 3300mah packs are going for a good price on ebay at the moment, also have a look at component shop and hobbyking, be sure you are on the uk site to keep the postage down!!!! Wouldn't bother with lipo batteries, SLA or NimH are more user friendly. If you want the H/H superstructure try contacting Krick they now make the kit, took over from Robbe when the went bust. Are the propshafts ok??? withdraw the shafts and lightly oil them get the oil into the inner bearing as well. Mark

Fish boxes by marky Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 19 days ago
little boxes the wife uses for sewing parafinalia the measure about 60mm x40mm bought from hobbycraft . cheers Marky

huntsman 46 by pilot Seaman   Posted: 21 days ago
hi .thank you all for your help.i have built the boat to power setup stage the kit by the way is a precedent huntsman 31 wooden i.will look at the hobby king site keen to get on with it steve

huntsman 46 by canabus Admiral   Posted: 21 days ago
Hi Pilot If you are using 540 can size (35-36mm brushless motor) a 3639-1100kv 800watts, 3648-1450 1600watts or a XK 3674-1900 1769 watts. All run on 100Amp ESCs, but check the maximum voltage they handle. I use car ESCs with the electric fan on top because they run cooler at slow speeds and no water plumbing required. The same with the motors no cooling. Props for these motors 37mm 2 blade or 40-45 mm 2 blade. If you go for a larger motor for a larger prop, a L5055-700kv 1600watts same ESC, but, start with a 2 blade prop about 52mm. Battery a 3-6S 5800mah or more with a C rating of 40 plus. I have used the 35mm motors in 34 to 40" boats, but, for my 46" Vosper Crash Tender I am going to the 5055. To large a prop will cause over heating of the ESC, battery and Motor. A in line amp meter(Hobbyking 9598000004-0) is the one in use. It reads the maximum amps, so for run speed amps slow speed up to maximum as a hit the throttle hard will give you maximum amps. Canabus

huntsman 46 by jarvo Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 21 days ago
Hi Pilot, first of all welcome to the forum. Do you have any modeling experience?? Which kit or plan are you using??? I would recommend an outrunner look for one with about 700 - 800 watt output, 3s or 4s rated with an ESC rated at least 100 - 150 amps, as a start with a 40 - 45mm brass prop. Kit or plan, reduce the angle of the propshaft to about 15 - 20 degrees electric motors can lie lower in the hull which was designed for I/C motors with their flywheel hanging below the motor, needing extra clearance. Suppliers. Have a look at the hobbyking site, for motor and esc, once you have the basic build underway, decide on the batteries you are going to use. Hope this helps as a starter, look round the web sites get more info and we can direct you further as to your requirements Regards Mark

Predator (Aeromarine Laminates USA) by bilzin Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 23 days ago
Hello Canabus Wondered if this might be of any use to you ? https:// style='background-color:yellow;'>hobbyking.com/en_us/hobbykingtm-h20-style-650ep-102mm-m4-3-1mm-flex-shaft.html Bill

Predator (Aeromarine Laminates USA) by canabus Admiral   Posted: 24 days ago
Hi Hope you can get spare flex drive cables as Hobbyking do not sell spares !!!! Mine is sitting in bits and the boat is getting converted into inboard with a 4mm flex drive with the original motor or the upgrade motor a 2836-3700kv on 4S. Canabus

46" Firefloat What Motor/Battery by canabus Admiral   Posted: 24 days ago
Hi What type of props are you using(size and number of blades). I see your basic problem is under powered motors and a very heavy battery. I made the big switch over three years ago from brush to brushless motors and to Lipo batteries. With the help on the forum and club members it was a learning curve, but, I would not go back. A 5800mah Lipo battery is in the weight of 450 to 570 grams and would give you a good 1/2 hour run time. A good balance charger and safety bag are the main requirements, also maximum charging for the 5800mah battery is 5.8 Amps(same as the old Nicads). Also a low voltage battery alarm. Your 600 motors can draw up to12Amps !!! Replacement same size motors for your mounts would be 35mm brushless motors, but, you will require two ESCs with a Y connector to run on the same throttle channel. Replacement brushless motors are far more powerful e.g. a Hobbyking 3639-1100kv with a 60Amp ESC on a 4S 5800mah Lipo Battery is 800watts and with two in your boat is 1600 watts!!! Your old motor would in the 100 watt each mark !! I have the same size crash tender, but, with a single brushless motor. I have all the order numbers for the motors etc. and a setup the ESCs if your require. Canabus

Electronics Down Below (5) by NPJ Captain   Posted: 26 days ago
This time I will try to remember to put in the ‘source’ information on the bits and pieces I use........... In the most recent piece I should have included exciters/transducers are Dayton Audio DAEX 25VT -4, 4 Ohms – 20 Watt pair, obtained from Sound Imports Netherlands and very quickly as well. The sound unit is a Mtroniks Digisound 5M diesel sound, available all over the place. Now to look at where I am at. Exciters are in place as high up the Hull as possible, but remembering the Deck level. Used the adhesive pads as supplied after wiping that part of the Hull with Meths and Silicone adhesive to keep in place as well as using the wiring tidies from Modelsport Ltd., for the cabling. (Pic 1+2) Before I start the motor and controller wiring I changed the platform ‘up front’ (pic3) with a piece of thin ply which I have given a couple of coats of varnish to waterproof. Then I thought to myself “why am I waterproofing this when, if it gets that wet, it will have gone to the bottom and be useless anyway”! (Pics 4) However, the platform gives a little more choice in terms of layout of other components and my plan for them is not really settled yet. I am concerned about the stern and possible swamping, but it currently seems the best place for the upgraded battery. (Pic5 ) Whilst talking batteries, I have gone for a separate battery supply for the receiver and hope to use the Bec supply for running other less critical items. Also the fitting of the battery in the stern bay drew my attention to the rudder servo for a couple of reasons. First is I am still considering increasing the size of the rudders and I am assuming that will increase the strain on the servo. The servo supplied is a standard issue and not water resistant so I have gone for an upgrade as shown(Pic6) That gives torque increase of 17Kg/cm over the Hobby Engine S1040C and has metal gears, metal control arm and waterproof for 20grams extra weight. Second is the closeness to the new battery position. So I was going to alter the servo arm setup anyway and the new metal arm suits this well. Maybe my ‘tutors’ will consider all this to be a little ‘over the top’ but I do so enjoy messing......................... New Servo DS 3218 by AYANI from Amazon. (Pics 6/7 ) Following that distraction, back to the front end and the Motor/Mixer placing and wiring. Now a little time ago I drew a plan to see what could go where and it came out that most of the ‘bits’ would go in the front bay with motors to be wired once power was brought forward, followed by the Esc/Mixer. (Pic 8) At that time I bought a P94 dual esc/mixer from Action Electronics and got the 20 amp version to be on the safe side................. My ‘guardians’ did point out this was ‘over-kill’ but I had already got it. Now, when placing the unit on the mounting board I found that the heatsinks made it too high to fit in the Hull! So being a spoilt brat only child I ordered the 10 amp version and as usual it came very quickly from up here in Bangor. ( Will keep the other one for the next project............Happy Hunter??) Unboxed it and it looked just the same, heatsinks and all. (Pic 9/10 ) So at that moment there was a bit of a set-back so I rang Component Shop at Bangor, they said “take the heat sinks off and you have a P94 lite”! Such a simple answer and such a nice chap. (Pic 11 ) Now a quick 'measure up' before I have a glass of wine (Pic 12) and does it all fit...? Well it appears to at the moment! (Pic 13) Next time really going to screw down the components under the forward hatch and wire it up. NPJ

MY other hobby build. by Novagsi0 Commander   Posted: 1 month ago
WOW !!- its good to see another one, it was only a few years ago mine looked like that (6 years ago) so pic attached. and I only work on it 1 night a week Mondays 7pm till 11pm.

Most dependable battery by canabus Admiral   Posted: 1 month ago
Hi Capt Larry I have used the Turnigy and Compact Zippy ones from Hobbyking with no problems for the last three years. Note only charge them at the maximum current equal to the battery capacity, eg 5800 mah = 5.8Amps. Lower Amps is better. Canabus