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>> Home > Tags > hobby

my hobby store
What transmitter , receiver by ukengineman Petty Officer   Posted: 5 days ago
Flysky i-6 is amazing value for money for a 6 channel computer radio. Hobbyking sell the same set with their Turnigy brand as the TGY i-6. You can buy the TGY i-6 from Hobbyking in the UK for around £45:- https:// style='background-color:yellow;'>

Charging NiMhs, one for Doug?... by Rookysailor Lieutenant   Posted: 17 days ago
If you want an assistant with your soldering, leads, 4mm gold thingy's!, XT plugs, deans plugs, in fact it caters for every type, such a simple idea,that works.👍 https:// style='background-color:yellow;'> Cheers, Peter😊

Sea Queen by sidley70 Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 19 days ago
Hi Martin In Australia we do not have many boating enthusiasts so the market for scratch builders are not there. We have hobby shops but they only sell kits. The main suppliers are in Melbourne called "Float a Boat" They do have quite a lot of boat fittings. I source a lot of parts from UK from "Model Boat Bits". Steve is quite helpful to deal with but as always the cost of potage kills it. Regards Sid

Spektrum, new, useless... by Haverlock Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 22 days ago
At the risk of sounding as though I work for the company the Taranis also has telemetry. One can monitor battery voltage in the model via the transmitter. There are a load of other options including variometer and airspeed. https://www.t9 style='background-color:yellow;'> However on the downside I do have to say its not the simplest beast to master since its so flexible you have to set EVERYTHING up. From the get go you have to decide which function is on which stick and where it is in the sequence to the receiver. Then things get complicated.

Spektrum, new, useless... by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 23 days ago
OK, after further research via HorizonHobby and Spektrum found it! There are some later (?) versions of the DX5e with DSMX & DSM2. (Now discontinued!) Default is DSMX, which would probably account for your TX not binding to an Orange DSM2 RX. For that you may need to switch the TX to DSM2 mode as described on page 6 of the manual. For the AR610 RX, check the printing on it if it says DSMX or DSM2 and set the TX mode accordingly!! Hope we are getting to the bottom of this slowly 😉 Now back to fibre-glassing my PTB 😲Good luck Martin.👍 Ciao, Doug 😎

Southampton Tug Boat by Weedman Seaman   Posted: 24 days ago
Can anyone help especially with step by step instructions. Better still, by sending me a video something similar to that which has been seen on YouTube. There is one about upgrading but that showed the deck already removed. I need help with dismantling the Hobby Engine Southampton Tug Boat which I purchased today. I want first to remove the deck without damaging any part, naturally. I know the removal of screws is necessary all around the deck but for some reason this dose not release the deck unless, it is secured with glue or am I missing something? Then, I can remove all RC equipment replacing it with my own. Lastly, I want to upgrade the battery from the standard 6 cell AA 800mAh 7.2v to a 1800mAh 7.4v or even a 3000mAh Lipo which will probably have to be relocated. All help, advice or suggestions would be appreciated. Keep it clean. Thank you.

LED Tug Mast Navigation Lights by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 26 days ago
Mornin' Pete (at least it is here!) Yes, switch on only one light at a time to avoid any confusion with the readings. Easier to find the 'live one' then. Socket means the connectors on the circuit board where you told me plugs from the superstructure wiring are connected , and as I saw in your photos. First job is to trace all wires back from the existing lights and note them on your sketch. If any are directly soldered into the board the procedure is just the same as if it were a socket pin. I'm particularly curious about the voltage to the bulb, and why it's a bulb in the first place. Carefully check all other lights, if they are also bulbs we have a slightly different ball game. Still need the voltages though 😉 I guess we are all collectively responsible for the demise of local model shops and Radio Shacks and the like. We all want Rolls Royces and Cadillacs but are only prepared to pay Hyundai and Toyota prices, so we all (me too - Guilty as Charged🤔) buy online from HobbyKing and similar and the local shops starve. Simple economics. Model shop owners gotta eat too! Sack time now in Munich, tomorrow (today😲) is another day, ciao, Doug 😎🤓

LED Tug Mast Navigation Lights by pittsfieldpete Lieutenant   Posted: 26 days ago
Hi, Doug: I’ve got a question about the resistors that’ll be needed for each of the six mast-mounted LED navigation lights. This may seem like a dumb question to an expert like you but please don’t laugh too hard. Anyway, do these resistors need to be installed as close as close as possible to the anode or can they be located some distance away, maybe as much as a foot or so? I don’t know yet what the value or physical size of the resistors will be but I’m pretty sure that the space inside the Richardson’s mast isn’t large enough to house the wiring for the LEDs & the resistors, too. If they can be installed farther away, I was thinking I could put the six resistors on a small board & install it inside the large cabin under the pilot house. When resistors are used in LED circuits do they get warm or even hot? If so, I can open up the dummy rectangular portholes & install black fine-mesh nylon screens in the openings. If heat isn’t a concern then I won’t sweat it (bad pun there, sorry). The hardest part of my project will probably be finding a good online source for the various electronic parts I’ll need. There used to be a great electronics supply store about two miles from my home. Coincidentally, that store was less than a block up the street from a hobby shop where I did business for almost fifty years. Now both stores are long gone. Sniff.

H.M.S. BRAVE BORDERER by RHBaker Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 27 days ago
Hi. Thanks for your comments. Before I started the BB did some canvassing of the net to find other builders. The drivetrain remarks were particularly interesting. The consensus seems to be that building three screws, as is scale and as I am determined to do, is the most complex and that for performance it is better using either single or two. Once deviating from scale bigger propellers also work better. I have rather limited my options with being determined to capture the original layout though. The vessel is being scratch built on a hull from MTBHulls, of which I am well pleased. The HK source is HobbyKing, often find their products are on backorder, but usually only take a few days to arrive. In this case have been advised it will be rather longer.

Warped wood by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 28 days ago
As my Father-in-Law would have said about that Sea Scout, "Bugger tha's a rumun" in his best Norfolk. he was a woodworker for a hobby, too. I didn't realise your bridge was a "chip" of sorts. I will definitely have to ask for help on that. Once I've made one, I'll be OK. Is that Veroboard, as we used to call it? Cheers, Martin

Fittings & Detail Parts by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 28 days ago
Hi Pete, "Moorhens — sometimes called marsh hens — are medium-sized water birds that are members of the rail family (Rallidae)." Good ol' Wiki😉 When they are young they are much smaller, brown and fluffy. You often see up to six of 'em in 'convoy' behind Mum 😁 Maybe they have a different 'handle' in N America? 'Marsh Hens' perhaps? I guess plastic / PTFE is OK, after all as you say, the Tugs are not exactly Sea Greyhounds so they ain't under much stress😉 I never guessed either😲 Re humble pie! Ask the Missus to top it with Lemon meringue, delicious 😜 Crow with Sage & Onion stuffing perhaps!? Anyway we all had to start somewhere as well😉 More soon, am currently stripping the hull of my 28" Elco PTB, prior to repainting in Pacific camouflage as PT109😲 Cheers, Doug 😎 PS: YOOHOO! The new ESCs for the PTB just arrived 😊 HobbyKing HK-30A, 30A cont. complete with finned heat-sink and fan connection, $10.29 a chunk. Can't grumble at that Grimble😁

Fittings & Detail Parts by pittsfieldpete Lieutenant   Posted: 29 days ago
You’re right, Doug. Lithium shouldn’t be in contact with pond or lake water, even in tiny amounts. I feel like a dope for considering lithium at all because for 20 years I designed & detailed water treatment equipment designed to remove that kind of thing! I took another look at my N scale maintenance supplies & it turns out that the grease I have is the PTFE/Teflon type as you mentioned. Another thing you mentioned about lithium grease that’s also true is that it does indeed tend to clump & become semi-solid over time. So obviously lithium grease gets crossed off the lube list. I don’t think the Hobby Engine prop shafts have bearings. It looks to me like the shafts just pass through tubes, essentially using the tubes as long sleeve bearings. When they’re greased they turn quite freely, plus the grease blocks water from entering the boat. There aren’t any oil tubes in my boat, either. Like you (& I assume just about every scale boater) I like to run at scale speeds. Anyone who has ever seen a real tug moving along knows that they can’t exactly reach planing speeds & they’re not likely to be seen towing water skiers. All things being equal, the WYEFORCE tug, which definitely appears to be the boat Hobby Engine designed their models from, has a top speed of 11 knots or 1114 feet per minute. The model’s scale is 1:36, so it’s top speed should be 0.306 knots or about 31 fpm. I don’t think the model can run that slowly, but again I say it’s about having fun. I won’t lose any sleep if the model has a faster scale top speed than the real boat as long as it looks good doing it.

Charging NiMhs, one for Doug?... by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 30 days ago
I'm certainly Well Chuffed with your Missus👍😊 You've gotta good'n there mate😉 Great, now we're all on the same wavelength. When will you get your 'stickies' on it? So now you've got (or will have) basically the same set as I and many others here, just with a different brand name. Mine is from Conrad and they just rebranded it Reely and almost doubled the price😭 Spare Rxs I bought from HobbyKing for peanuts and bonded the lot as soon as they arrived. No problems at all😊 I have one in my restored Sea Scout, did you see the videos I posted of her Sea Trials in the Ostpark? First run Final run, bier was getting warm😉 Cheers Doug 😎 BTW: Apropos 'Pooterism' which one are you, Charles (left) or Lupin?😁😁

Brushless motor selection by canabus Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Hi robhenry Your motor would be only running at about 9500rpm 0n 9.6 volts. The closest brushless motor would be a Hobbyking Turnigy L5055C-700kv on 4S Lipo batteries (10360 rpm), these are 50mm diameter, 6mm shaft. Note you require a separate ESC for each motor and a Y connector to link them to your throttle channel. Personally I would use the Hobbyking car 100A ESC's (HK-100A). Also both the motors and ESCs require no water cooling. Canabus

Fittings & Detail Parts by pittsfieldpete Lieutenant   Posted: 1 month ago
Hi, Doug: Either of the two file formats you mentioned (.docx or .pdf) is fine, whichever one is easiest for you. Speaking of .pdf files, do you (or anyone else reading this) know of a website where I can download a user manual for the 27mhz or 40mhz versions of Hobby Engine’s tugs? From the details you mentioned in your manual it seems like it has useful information that’s not even mentioned in my 2.4ghz version booklet. My manual doesn’t mention anything about the rear hatch, for example. I don’t know if there’s anything about maintenance in your manual but mine has nothing at all. It seems odd that there’s nothing written at all about prop shaft lubrication or other basic maintenance. My six page booklet tells about installing AA batteries in the transmitter & how to place the 7.2v battery pack in the boat. There’s nothing about how long the 7.2v battery should be charged or how to charge it properly. Very strange.