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Does anyone know if the R Sweet plans for the Iranian frigate Mk5 vosper thornycroft is still available electronically or in print as per MM plans service as per Model Maker plans service 2nd edition. Im going to try and my one that I started way back in 1968. Any help would be great thanks. Rgds to all Ross
[Score: 5/10] 36"/2400g MTB 49 Capable of 5mph and a runtime of 60mins Twin Propellors (3 Blade 25mm) Direct Drive to a 380 27MM (3 Blade) Powered by NiCad (7.2v) 2Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through CHINA (5Amps) ESC - Comments: Scratch built Thornycroft MTB from a 1960s Vic Smeed plan. Boat is 40yrs old from start till now. Bought plans in 1968 and finished 20 yrs later working on and off. Was twin prop with single Futaba ESC, on 27Mhz then an Electronize ESC on FM 40 Mhz now have just converted it to twin car ESCs and added a sound unit and is now run on 2.4 . Has a 100mm 12v computer fan for cooling with heat sinks on the motors. Has separate cabin lights and running lights.
Thanks for the nice comment, and yes it is a very nice pond, except when there are a lot of those things with rags tied to sticks racing (shouldn't say that as I've sailed full scale all my life and still have 2 small yachts), and the buoys they leave there are a pain also, (easy to forget they are there) It was full of hire carp (yes hire carp) which were removed as the council wasn't paying the company or some such hassle, but I'm sure they missed some and they will soon multiply and keep the weed down. Bought the plans for the MTB around 1968 and took around 20yrs to finish it. I still have the plans and it only took me about 40yrs to find a photo of the original boat (bit late by then!).
Just converted this 40yr old twin brushless model (scratch built from a Vic Smeed plan) to a proper independent twin system plus a sound unit. Started off with a 70s Futaba ESC on 27mhz, then on FM, then replaced with an Electronize unit on FM, then to 2.4 and now on 2.4 with twin ESCs and converted TGY S6 (twin throttles). Maneuvers a lot better and makes a better noise.
Rowen, here are a couple of things that may be of use to you (and others). The battery alarm will save you worrying about running out of steam as they can be set to beep at varying voltages to warn you of low battery, just put one on each batt balance lead and when one goes off (when an individual cell drops below the set voltage) it means start heading back. These can be picked up on Ebay for a few dollars. I use them on my planes as well and are audable from around 100m (these twin horns are the best) Secondly, re your ESC switches, these electronic switches (AliExpress) are great for this sort of thing (as long as you have enough aux switches on TX ) You can link them with a Y cable to work together or use them independantly for anything, (lights, pumps etc, - they can be operated by TX rotary switches as well) The ESC and 2000kv motor (HK) are the ones I am using in my ASR model and will work smoothly down to a crawl, the purple 1980 kv seems to have superseded these but I think they will be as good. The props are from Ali Express and are resin and available in L and R hand, are only a few bucks and perform perfectly while looking quite scale(ish). I painted them with an acrylic bronze which seems to have stayed on pretty well. Model weighs 2.8kg and will run at more than 10mph flat out with this set-up (using the 26mm L+R) props) which is silly speed and that's with 2x 2s 2200mah lipos (which will last till you get sick of it and still have 60% left) I was just looking at your Daman set-up and noticed the wiring method from the batts to the ESCs. You might want to make your batt to ESC connections direct to your ESCs (as per original ESC lead length)as your capacitors may get a thrashing (spikes) due to the extra length/ resistance you have there. There is a general rule that you don't lengthen the batt to ESC wiring without adding a 220mf capacitor of same voltage as the ESC for every 4"of extra wire length (ESC to motor - not so much). Might want to check this out in case you fry your ESCs You probably have thought of this but thought I'd mention it, 'just in case' Might help with your modulation as well. Have chucked in a vid of the HSL manouvering (first trials so wasn't perfect) and also the MTB (brushed) which I have just converted to a twin system (was twin but single Electronize unit) plus a sound unit. You may know that you can use as many RECs (bound to the same TX) for various purposes on the same boat (have run 2 boats together from the same TX) Might get you round the mixed brushless/ brushed problem with a bit of thought. Have you thought of changing your old HK silver 6DF TX to twin throttles, it's a piece of cake(as is the TGY 6x), just remove the aileron/rudder centering spring and make a friction plate as per throttle stick, and use the elevator channel as your other throttle. Set your ESCs and you can then use a twin system giving you perfect control. Saves a lot of hassle.
Thanks, Doug, I take it that throttle down would mean throttle back with a pistol set like the Flysky? Also, it's a Lipo I want to tell it about. I went nuts and bought one as it's a brushless motor. So as soon as I hear a beep I yank back on the throttle trigger? Let's hope it doesn't just beep continuously like it did before. Foghorn? I had no idea it was there. Norn Airish Snookrr soo et ezz. Don't do sports. Cheers, Martin
Thanks for the ideas guys. I'll probably try and find a two horn cleat like you suggested, though finding one I can blind screw in at two points is proving a little more difficult. Like you said, it's looking like a handmade fixture. I suspect the whole boat, including all the fixtures were hand made. The joys of buying second hand.
See attached Martin, Same procedure to open as with the pdf. "Foghorn? What foghorn? " The one that sounds to tell me that a new post has arrived on the site. See above the list of Active users on the right of the screen - [Toggle Sound]. "Sullivan," Ronnie 'The Rocket' O'Sullivan. "Trump?" Judd 'The Ace in the Pack' Trump. Finalists in the Northern Ireland Open Snooker Championship. One of the 'Home Nations Series'; England, Scotland, Wales and Northern Ireland. Alles klar Herr Kommissar? Cheers, Doug 😎
Doug, the instructions tell me to do what you guys have as to order of switching on, but the beep bit doesn't actually explain what to do which is what I meant by what it means. Foghorn? What foghorn? Sullivan, Trump? Martin
Looks like a simple 'Jam cleat', roughly half a normal Horn cleat. On a mast a form of Shroud cleat. Look in the Fittings section of any good model shop, e.g. Cornwall Model Boats. If all else fails just buy a normal two horn cleat and saw/file one horn off. Simple enough to make though. 😎
Hi Martin, You don't have to know what it MEANS you just have to do exactly what it says. It's written in surprisingly good and clear English compared with most! Even with the old 'dumb' RC the rule was always TX on first and off last. Just to stop the servos and motors going bonkers and maybe chopping your fingers off.😡 Take it slowly and go step by step and you'll be OK. Cheers, Doug BTW; thanks for waking me up with the foghorn 👍 nearly missed the 4th frame of the Sullivan vs Trump duel. No not THAT Trump 😁
After the successful build of the ‘Vintage Model Works’ RAF Crash Rescue Tender I was asked by Mike Cummings of VMW if I would undertake to build a prototype of their new model with the aim of checking the construction method and the assembly instructions for accuracy before the kit is put into production. The model is a ‘Thames River Police Launch’ and is based on the original design by Phil Smith for the Veron company, this was a very popular model kit in the late 50’s and 60’s and sold for the princely sum of 43 shillings and tuppence, approximately £2.15 in today’s money but an equivalent cost of £48.50 in 1960. This design has been updated to accommodate electric propulsion and radio control by Colin Smith, the son of the original designer and it has been re-scaled to be 36” in length where the original was 24” which gives much more scope for detailing and provides more ‘hiding room’ for the drive, control systems and all the associated wiring. The kit produced by VMW uses the same construction techniques as the original and the materials are a combination of balsa and plywood both of which a laser and CNC cut for precision. The ply and balsa materials supplied are of very high quality as one would expect from VMW and all the stripwood for the chines, rubbing strakes and deck detailing is included, even the dowel required for the mast is in the box, very comprehensive! The kit also includes white metal fittings such as the fairleads and stanchions, and the searchlight and horns. The glazing for the windows comes in the kit too. The instruction sheet supplied is in need of revision as it is largely taken directly from the original as written by Phil Smith and some of the terminology needs updating, for instance the ply bottom and side skins are referred to as ‘strakes’ but I understand that a re-write of the instructions is in hand along with an updated plan showing the best positioning for the motor, prop-shaft, battery, ESC, receiver, rudder and servo. During construction I have added a few additional pieces of ply or balsa as reinforcement or supports and substituted some balsa parts for ply where I thought a stronger material would be better. I also added some hatches to give access to the wiring at the bow and the rudder & servo at the stern but largely I have not gone ‘off plan’ to any extent. The pictures show the model in it’s present state (Nov 2018) and is ready for painting and finishing.
Many thanks for your reply on my question. I wasn't sure what it was. I am still wondering does any one still use Cascamite. I have built several boats in years gone by with it. I am building an Aeronaut Classic at the moment and the glue that was recommended was Deluxe materials Speed Bond. In the instructions it doesn't state what glue to use, there is a small tube of glue with the kit but the instructions say about using dope to seal the wood it may melt the glue. Apart from that I'm far from happy with the way it is made. I would have been better off spending an extra £20 and getting a Sea hornet. I have had to go and buy another piece of sixteenth thick marine ply as the bottom skins do not fit the skeleton. I have used the Depron build sheet as well. I have never built a model on one of these in the past. I built a Sea Hornet in the early 70's and it's still in my shed and needs restoring, But she's still well solid. I'm not so sure that this Aeronaut Classic will stand the use and time that the Sea Hornet has. Has anyone else on here built one of these and found the same problem with it?
No, not dioramas, Doug. Dioramas use forced (false?) perspective and therefore must be viewed from one point. I made a diorama of Shelseley Walsh hillclimb to show slot car models. It was quite effective. This is all new for me and I am gathering engine models (I hope) from various hot rod sources. It will save me time on building these. I have a Merlin coming from Holland and a few others from contacts. First model in this series will be Hornet II, the wonderful gar Wood Speedster which had an all aluminium deck and fin added and its Packard replaced by a Rolls-Royce Meteor, which was just a Merlin sans blower. Interestingly, the Rover Meteorite was a V8 version of the meteor and fitted in pairs in the Crash Tender. Martin