As the hull glass matting is really dry and has had some minor filling done it’s time to fit the chine rubbing strakes. which have been in the jig now for some days and consisted of a two dimensional curvature jig. In order to make sure the strakes were equally balanced on each side I made a cardboard template that followed the Chine stringers line and rested on the Gunwhale rubbing strakes, having drawn a line on the port side I flipped the template over and drew a line on the starboard side giving a perfectly equal curve on each side So now to prepare them for fitting. The jig had made a curve that was a really good fit without much spring. I decided to use some very small brass pins (0.5dia x 10mm long) to hold them whilst the epoxy sets. I pre drilled the whole length of the strake and lightly inserted pins along its length, then applied the epoxy and started to fix from the bow and followed the pencil line back to the stern. This was repeated on the other side, when set there was some minor filling to be done/filling pin holes.
Hi.all.new to.my.fleet is this lovely 42"x11 tug called Amsterdam. I' am going to put her back to original and use her for towing. But before I start the over hall. I need some help people can't find this kit Any where all the ones I van find are pvc hull and thus one is full wood plank hull and and top and all the fittings are.led.and.brass. So want to no.the.age make and any other info someone has.to make.her.right
Evenin' Martin, Just back from 'nosh' with Gisela, my camera girl in the vid! She's mean like that too, keeps me hoppin' about like the proverbial cat on the proverbial hot stuff 😡 Can't wait to see the rotating teddy👍 Put a couple of mini Cam lenses in his eyeballs and you'll get a terrific 360° First Person View from the driving seat😁 Re Sea Scout, I took your advice and did the hull in Royal Blue (no navy knickers!😆) or what passes for that here. Anyway I'm pleased how she turned out. OK, I admit I accidentally turned her into a Sport Fishing Boat😁 She's 24" what scale do you think that makes her? I'm looking for crew figures and stuff to fit out the cockpit but I'm not sure what size to look for. I thought maybe 1/20 i.e. a 40 footer? Waddya think? Re Kako; while recently trying (fruitlessly🤔) to make space in the workshop (got two renovations on the go in parallel - saves getting the same tools, rattle cans an' stuff out twice!😁) I ran across the original Kakos and Mabuchis I used in my scratch 53" H class destroyer Hotspur in 1966. She ran off a 4.5V EverReady flat (form not volts😁) battery until Granny took pity and bought me some 6V Lantern batteries! I ran 'em up on a power supply and they turned but now sound like mini football rattles! Think they need new big end shells 😁 Jeez, how many guys under pension age have ever been down to the bitza bazaar looking for 50 thou oversize bearing shells and compression and oil control rings?? Pics show her Sea trials in Radnor Park pond, Folkestone, Kent, summer 1966. Sorry about the quality, only had a Box Brownie 127 in those days and could only afford Gratispool free B/W films🤔 Pentax? Canon? Sony? Not to mention Digital? HD? Wassat? 50 years on I got all three😉 I like Lupins too, preferably the blue and purple ones. BTW, for your steering guy's arms you don't need a separate RC function or channel! You just need a coupling from the rudder control to turn a pulley and cord which turns a suitably scaled pulley attached to the wheel axis. The arms are fixed to the wheel and go with it! Dead simple (to write anyway😁) and no lecktrickery! 😊 OR you could just put one of his hands on the wheel and the other on the throttle. Then use a 'Y' cable to split the ESC cable into two. Connect the second output to a servo which moves the throttle lever via a push-me-pull-you-rod, pulleys and cord or gears or whatever. Sure you can figure out the mechanics better than I. Whatever, have fun and don't electrocute yourself, keep your socks dry😉 Cheers, Doug 😎
I'd confirm what Ron says above. A slight warp, like yours, is paradoxically harder to shift than a biggy. I had a terrible warp in an old hull, but after making diagonal strutting and regluing the skins to a point a bit MORE than the warp in reverse, it sprung back to a perfect shape, but that roof is slight and so steam is the way. You can also use hat water or even just water, but, as Ron says, you'll need to twist it in the opposite direction and keep it there. A cheap and cheerful wooden frame is the answer, then either steam or dunk the whole lot in your garden (or somebody else's ) water butt. That's how I put the sheer AND deck camber on the 1.6mm decks of my yacht model. Worked a treat. left them to soak for half an hour and then dry on a hot sunny day, naturally. I now have a flat ply deck which has the curve of the sheer AND the athwartships camber all at once. I also notice that the framework under the roof sheet isn't complete. If you were to complete that while holding the roof in an unwarped position, glue up and let it set hard you could also find it will straighten up. Failing all this, making a brand new one from a bit of 1.5mm ply and some 3mm for a frame will be just as quick. Ah, it's our pirate friend. Hello Bryan. Hadn't twigged it was your Seaplane Tender! It deserves repair rather than replacement, I reckon. Cheers, Martin
I have added wood to the outer edge of the deck, (the scuppers) it projects out from the hull, forming the knuckle. That's what I call the half round strip around the hull, another needed below the sponsons, this one just stuck on. There is a raised section over the rudder arm, with a grating. Small gratings can be a problem, here is a solution, not my idea but a good one. A plastic hit & miss air vent, D.I.Y. store. I cut it with a band saw, as the blade cools down, were a jig saw melts it back again.
Just in case anybody wondered, I am still alive (!) but have had a very busy couple of months. What with the birth of a 5th grandchild, the baptism of my only granddaughter plus plenty of gardening and additions to my collection of bearded iris there has been llittle time for model engineering or building Miranda’s hull, although the engine is more or less complete and just about running on compressed air. Oh the joys of being retired - no time to do anything!
Bryan, that appears to be a Fast Patrol Boat. I don't know that it was a kit one, although Aerokits did one, but it looks to be a very nicely done model. You certainly can't get those batteries any more, Ever ready being long dead as a company, but please keep them. They are more museum pieces than the boat! And that motor is something interesting. If you want to replace it with some modern rubbish, I'd be interested in buying it from you for my "Maverick's collection of Unfeasable Motors". I would be tempted to leave the finish as it is as that is so typical of the period (late 50s), but rarely seen any more. It's a very nice boat and deserves to be kept in period. These boats for real, were not that fast, despite being called High Speed Launches, so you don't need some screaming brushless in it. A 400 brushed would be sufficient. Some suitable decals on the hull sides would finish it off nicely. You could paint those side windows dark gloss grey to represent glass from a distance. Cheers, Martin
Ron, you can get all thevents information you'll need from the Association of Model Barge Owners website. Incidentally, for a sailing model, the best scale is 1/24th i.e. 1/2 Inch to one foot which gives a hull length of about 42 inches.
Evenin' Martin, just a quick thought before I hit the hay! For the non slip deck paint why don't you cover the deck with a suitable wet and dry paper? 😉 With a bit of luck you might even find some wet n dry the right shade of grey!! Don't know the size / scale you are building but maybe around 120 / 240 would do! Cut to fit, glue it down with a spray glue, I found some in the 'Creative Corner' of a garden centre near me. Also a good source of fine gauge steel, brass, copper, gold and silver wire and nylon thread, and anchor chains😉😊 Then seal with a spray-on flat sealer or varnish, then spray a satin colour you want. Humbrol H129 might be a good substitute for 'Cerrux Deck Grey'. See Model Boat Mayhem for references to Cerrux Grey 😉 I agree the cabin sides are a much lighter shade of grey, almost white. Just ripped all the innards and deck fittings off my PTB. Just got the bare hull and shaft tubes left. Just havin' a wee dram then up the 'apples and pears to Bedfordshire' before I get tempted to sand and paint through the night. It happens sometimes 😲 G'night all, cheers Doug 😎 ZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZ
Wow! Harbor Models is amazing! Their selection of kits & detail parts is outstanding. Thanks for letting me know about it. There are only a few hobby shops in my area. They all have at least a few R/C boats in stock but they’re mostly the racing type. There was an excellent store called Bliss Marine over a hundred miles away in Dedham, MA (near Boston) that stocked kits & parts in addition to parts & accessories for full-size fishing boats & yachts. They stocked the whole line of Billing Boats kits & fittings as well as several other brands. I used to buy from Bliss via mail order or by phone back in the pre-Internet era but their service was super fast. Every time we’d go down to the family cottage near Nantasket Beach in Hull, MA I always stopped at Bliss. I’d tell my wife I’d only be in the store for “a few minutes” but she knew my “few minutes” would almost always be at least an hour. Sadly, not only is Bliss Marine long gone but so is the Hull cottage. It was damaged beyond repair during hurricane Bob in 1991. The decision was made not to rebuild it & the lot it stood on was sold to a neighbor. Sigh. But I digress. Fortunately I found this fantastic website! Although I signed up just a short time ago I’ve read dozens of interesting posts & have received quick answers to my questions from other friendly Model Boats members. This site is a goldmine! Thanks for your fast, helpful reply! Pete
Mornin' Ed, Damn lucky it didn't burn a hole in the hull 😡 But then we didn't have LiPos back then did we! Even so, a big NiCad or NiMh can pack a big punch if it finds a way😉 Glad you got the boat back 👍 G'night all, 😎
Boatshed, you have to speak as you find with these things. Clearly, the model has been improved but not enough yet. It's only fair that we are honest with suppliers. I haven't looked at his deck fittings, but if they are straight off a 3D printer they too will need a lot of work to correct and improve the surfaces. It's not offensive to say so, it's just the truth. Martin
Hi mastman, I saw your comment that you wrote, I have copied and pasted it below. ******************************************** Your right about the madhouse cant see how people can run things down on here without seeing the actual goods any way thats another matter. ********************************************* I did write about the shape of the wherry hull was wrong. I am not into sailing boats, am more into MTB's and I power boat hulls. I know I hadn't seen the actual hull in the flesh so to speak. All I saw was the picture that had been posted for the Wherry hull that was for sale. I had just come home from Norfolk and just seen a Wherry moored in Potter Heigham. I commented that the shape was wrong because of the way the bow of the hull swept up so high. I have posted the picture I saw from which I commented on. I am sorry if I did offend you but it was just that I din't see the shape as being correct. Once again I am sorry to have offended you. I also said about other parts being made on a 3D printer. Onc e again I did think that resin ones I have seen on ebay were of a better finish quality than the 3D printed ones. It seems that I have put a cat amongst the pigeons with my remarks. I am sorry to have offended you. Regards BOATSHED.
Dave, I'm sorry, but that is the wrong shape at the upper level and I can see at a glance that there are asymmetries to the sections. I have a plan of Gleaner in front of me and there are major discrepancies in the shape. Of course, that won't necessarily stop it sailing well enough although may make it want to go one way easier than the other. If I could draw on this thing I'd put some rings round the areas of concern so you can see what I mean, but I lost Illustrator and Photoshop ages ago in a machine repair and never got it back. Thanks for the extra pics. Martin