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>> Home > Tags > hull

hull
hull
Chris-Craft Special Runabout by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 6 hours ago
I should, perhaps, have said that this hull with its shaft and tube, but nowt else cost me a grand 99 pence on ebay a couple of years back. You won't find anything worth having for 30 times that now! Martin

Chris-Craft Special Runabout by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 6 hours ago
OK, you know and I know that this is an Aerokits Sea Hornet, BUT, with a little reworking, it becomes a very passable Chris Craft Special (sometimes Custom) Runabout. One cockpit, long engine deck. I think it suits the Sea Hornet shape and proportions very well. Generally, I think too much is expected to be going on with a basic Hornet and the deck furniture is too simplistic. Also, don't be tempted to call this one a barrel back They had one continuous curve right over the transom from chine to chine, whereas this hull and the Special Runabout had a break, albeit a small one at the deck level. Anyway, I redecked the Hornet with 1/16th" ply, leaving the engine hatch long. I also had to make a small hatch at the stern to service the tiller and its connection. Then I realised I would never be able to get to the two starboard screws that hold the steering servo in, so a wee hatch went in over them too. That will be held in with a small magnet and just popped up from inside the engine 'ole hatch. Because the hull needed filling and various repairs, I decided to paint it, but veneer plank the deck. many Chris-Crafts were painted and I think this one in a nice off-white with a varnished Mahogany and pear deck will look just the job with nickel plated deck furniture, made in brass and nickel silver and plated in nickel to look like chrome in scale. Chrome is a) difficult to get these days and b) too bright and garish on a model. The hull has been epoxied and rubbed down then brush panted heavily with cellulose primer surfacer. This rubs down a treat ready for a sprayed enamel top coat or three. Cheers, Martin

nearing completion! by Skydive130 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 6 hours ago
So, I have managed to crack on quite a bit this week. Ive done a heap at work on nights this week, followed by near enough a whole weekend of no interuptions as the "long haired Segeant Major" has been at her parents for the weekend!😁 it took a couple of days to build the coxswains console out of balsa and alot of fettling with plastitube and sheet, very please with the outcome. its not 100% scale acurate as is the rest of the model, but close enough to give a good representation of the wheelhouse contents. Just the Coxswain and seat to build and paint for a completed wheelhouse. The rest of the weekend has seen the cockpit just about finished, painted and laquered. So, to complete the model the following items need to be built, painted and fitted. Radar mount and radar, instrument dials, cockpit glazing, antenna mast and rigging, towing bitt, rear cockpit railing and winch, hull grab ropes, anchor, and finally about 2 kilos of lead ballast to get her sitting right on the water. I reckon another week to 10 days for a completed model!

20th Scale ELCO 80ft PT boat part 7 by CB90 Admiral   Posted: 15 hours ago
Hi RNinMunich, Should not be too bad as will cut ply slit/profile from tubes to the transom then reinforce inside under rudder compartment. rest of the tubes length are already supported. I really wanted to make sure the motors and shafts were in excellent alinement, and being able to see through the hull is a good advantage. (note. do not have facilities to make alignment tools). In previous models I have left it towards the end of the build to fix motors couplings and have found alinement to be a bit difficult, especially on smaller boats.

Another useful site for all 'Woodies' ;) by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 day ago
Doug, I do most of that with veneers, which just require a sharp scalpel. No need for too much precision woodwork, but if there is, you just treat the timber as metal, using metalworking tools to cut and work it. It really isn't difficult. What MIGHT put some people off are all those shiny deck fittings and hull furniture. They have to be done by hand in brass, then polished, then sent off to be plated. Each of my Rivas had over 150 separate pieces of polished brass and nickel silver to be plated! Martin

Cheap motor for a quick fit, but what prop gents?... by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 days ago
My mistook! Thought it was a scale boat. OK, Try nosing around here https://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/acatalog/propellers_451... There's at least a 25mm version, M3. Or here, from 30mm, only M4 though https://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/acatalog/propellers_230... FYI attached is the current Raboesch catalogue, lots of useful stuff, not just props. BTW: my Sea Scout, same hull, uses a Raboesch brass 30mm from the 162 series and she's sporty enough don't you think? Whatever, Happy Hunting👍 Cheers, Doug 😎

Cheap motor for a quick fit, but what prop gents?... by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 5 days ago
Mornin' (😲) Martin., First off; the Hornet ain't mine, wish it was 🤔 I had a look on the Lesro Models site to get an idea of what the prop would have to shove! Was surprised to see it is my hull with a different lid! The current kit is 80 quid BTW. To the motor / ESC; Yeah, you could use an 11.1V LiPo on that motor. BUT your ESCs probably are not LiPo SAFE! Which means that they won't have an automatic shut off or slow down function for when the battery is getting near it's Suicide voltage; roughly anything below 3.0V. Some say 2.7 but I don't risk that. So you would have to be cautious on the first runs and frequently check the remaining volts to learn how long you can run before you risk damaging the LiPo. If you can squash it in how about a 12V 10 cell NiMh? That should give you a good turn of speed with the 35mil prop. Bit heavy though🤔 I use an 11.1V LiPo in my Sea Scout with a 1000kV brushless. i.e. ca 11.100 rpm full bore, and that lifts her snout quite well as you have seen. Hope you find the motor, you seem to make a habit of 'mislaying' motors! Have you found the Supermarine yet? Apropos Supermarine; I've just been asked to renovate one 😉 Looking forward to that so I can see it's coil construction first hand. Will help me refine the mod instructions for you.😉 ESCs; mail me any printing on them and photos and maybe I can identify them and their capabilities. The switch makes me think maybe they do have BEC! The leads don't go nowhere cos it's only there to switch on the ESC / BEC. In my experience only ESCs with BEC have such a switch. Easy way to find out; set up an RX with a servo, plug the ESC lead into the RX, stick a battery on the ESC WITHOUT motor, switch on the TX and the ESC (move the switch to the end where two wires are connected) and see if the servo responds to the TX or any LEDs flash on the RX. Or just measure the volts across the red and black wires on the RX plug! If the ESC has a heat sink I don't think you need worry too much about current capability. Use your natty new Wattmeter to measure the current drawn by the motor as you run it slowly up to full speed. 😉 Don't think you need worry about volts either; all but the teeny weeny ones (like the fingernail size 3.7V ESCs I just bought for my Plastic Magic ships with only a 1S LiPo supply) can normally handle at least 12V, it's current that usually kills 'em😡 Sorry; Your electro-boards are still here, haven't been too mobile lately🤔 So I ordered some prepaid DHL labels (arriving Thursday) and will then get them to collect your parcel from me. Will email when they're finally underway. Cheers, Doug 😎

Cheap motor for a quick fit, but what prop gents?... by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 5 days ago
Hi Martin, I assume your Sea Hornet is the 24 x 8 inch version. Which means your hull is the same as my Sea Scout. You just have a different topside! As you have seen my Sea Scout with that hull does pretty well on a 35mm prop. https://youtu.be/zPgYicA0yGw https://youtu.be/b0BWJ3duzDw Which drill motor is it? What was the drill voltage? Cheers, Doug 😎

Current loading of a Motor by CB90 Admiral   Posted: 5 days ago
Hi there, can anyone help with a question about current flow through an electric motor (in this case Brushless). A boat in the bath (static) pulls 25A is there a relationship to what it will pull on open water (dynamic), I know there are many factors involved. I am looking for a best gest-imate or practical experience, for a average planning hull. I once read It was between 10-15% less when moving but this could be for a displacement hull. Many thanks Roy

Banckert by liamduck Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 6 days ago
[Score: 8/10] 25" Banckert Single Propellor (3 Blade 25mm) Direct Drive to a 555 (3 Blade) Powered by NiMH (7.2v) 2Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through BDESC-S10E (10Amps) ESC - Comments: Built from a Billings kit I bought at Bury Metro open day. This is quite an old kit and needed careful handling due to it's age. I needed to reinforce the hull in places. Quite a reasonably easy kit to build, despite Billings (as usual) not providing any instructions, jus drawings to guide the builder.

HMS Hood by cormorant Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 6 days ago
Thanks Ron. I have tried to be most particular with scale speed and waterline. I used 1.2kg of ballast carefully laid out whilst hull was floating in the bath. Once in place I secured it with expanding foam.

Preparing the Hull Part 4 by octman Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 6 days ago
How is the build progressing. I am thinking of getting this kit as a winter project and would like to see what you have managed to achieved. Chris

deck planks by hammer Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 6 days ago
Paddle boxes well on the way. Just the face to do now. Note they are bolted to hull & fit behind plates holding bearings. So they are removable.

Venetian Evening by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 7 days ago
Good! So you've got another week to fix that leak and get that hull resprayed 😉😁 Go Man Go!!

Billing Boats St Canute Update by onetenor Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 8 days ago
Looks good but yes sand till flush and seal 3/4 coats sanding between. Then the same with lacquer or varnish. Good look with the hull.👍