Cookies used in this website are gluten free, wheat free and dairy free. By using this website you agree to our use of cookies. More Info
Guest
Login Below
Join Us On Social Media!
   
Get The Model Boats App!
Apple App Store
Android app on Google Play


Help Support This Website
£
or enter custom amount

(Non Contributor)

Help support this free
website and donate.



£285 a year is needed to keep the website and apps online. Please consider donating £5 or more to help towards these fees.
All donations are securely managed through PayPal. Amounts donated are not published online.

Many thanks for your kind support.

Model Boats Website Team


Donation History
October 2018: 5 people
September 2018: 13 people
August 2018: 5 people
July 2018: 8 people
June 2018: 8 people
May 2018: 7 people
April 2018: 24 people
March 2018: 13 people
February 2018: 8 people
January 2018: 9 people


Unique Visitors This Month

Website Members

Terms and Conditions
Privacy Policy
Advertising
Contact


Model Boats Website
Active Users (13)
Login or Register
To Remove This Ad

Login or Register
To Remove This Ad
>> Home > Tags > hull

hull
hull
Boat hull by 2435mick Petty Officer   Posted: 18 hours ago
And it should read GRP not group😁

Boat hull by 2435mick Petty Officer   Posted: 18 hours ago
It's 49" long (1.24m) and 11.5" beam (30cm)

Boat hull by Northumbrian Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 18 hours ago
Hi Mick what is its length & beam Cheers Bob

Boat hull by 2435mick Petty Officer   Posted: 22 hours ago
I have for sale this group hull for a coastguard type boat, I bought it with the intention of restoring it etc but it will never happen, it's just the hull with prop tubes, no superstructure, £20 collection from Nelson Lancashire or could possibly post at cost

Veron Vosper F.P.B. 52" by kevinsharpe Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 2 days ago
Hi John. Interested to know what kind of offers you have had. Boaty, yes Veron did an RTTL Rescue Target Towing Launch, they featured in the black and white film ' The sea shall not have them'. This though is their fast patrol boat. I believe it's called a 'Trinity class patrol boat and some were supplied to the Trinidad and Tobago navy. You will sometimes see the model bares the name Coureland Bay'. I have seen photos on this website of her. They were built by Vosper Thornycroft in Portsmouth. If I was building her I would put two meaty brushless motors n her which should bring a sprite lay planing performance. I have fitted two Graupner 900s in mine, which give her an excellent turn of speed. These are brushed motors but are not available any more. The hull space is vast so easily accommodates batteries with space for sound system working radar etc. Regards Kevin

Must get the skins on before I pull all of my hair out!! by MouldBuilder Captain   Posted: 3 days ago
This build is proving to be much more difficult than I had expected. 😤 I think I started this project thinking that all of the parts were ready to fit and glue. As I went on, it became clear that this is not the case. Due to this, and as detailed in the earlier post, I have had to break down the glue joints of the hull frame, and reposition after deepening some of the assembly slots. I have re-assembled the bulkheads, stringers etc. and then started to fit the side skins. This has proven to be the most difficult task so far. You need six arms. After several failures, removal of all of the fixing tape and then starting again, they finally started to look reasonable. I watched a time lapse video on you tube and he seems to do it fairly easily. Oh well. 🤔 Now that I was happy with the fit of the sides, it was time to start on the bottom skins. I started by trying to form chamfers along the keel centre joints so that they look reasonable. Then I once again applied tape to hold them in position whilst glueing with my other three hands, I wish. This only took two attempts. I must be getting better. I still have most of my hair also. Next, I tried to mount the motors onto the angled bulkhead. The front location was very loose so I made a couple of thin silver steel rings to improve the fit. They work very well. 😊 Next job was to fit and align the prop shafts. I decided to make these solid joints and avoid the use of universal joints. The first motor went straight on with perfect shaft alignment. The second was not so good. After two hours of fiddling with a packer, I finally achieved perfect alignment. Next job was to give good joint strength and make the hull water tight. Rightly or wrongly I use a lot of glue to give that perfect seal. I used epoxy for all of the skin inner joints and Stabilit for the outer seams and joints. I used the Stabilit around the shafts as well which looks a little messy at the moment, but I will tidy all of this up next. I will paint the inner Stabilit with white paint to hide a little. This weekend I will do a water test to ensure it is water tight.😱 I think after that I will fit all of the electrics, servo and speed controller. Then I will spray the hull and the main deck prior to fixing together. I would be interested to know what others think about when to paint, before or after assembly, especialy regarding the hull. Enough for now.🤐 I will try to speed up the build a bit now as I am expecting the new 46" Crash Tender to arrive soon. Wood!!! Love it.😊

Veron Vosper F.P.B. 52" by kevinsharpe Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 3 days ago
Hi This model is a particular favorite of mine. I am restoring one having converted to twin electric motors. Quite a rare kit but impressive when made and is 52" hull. Hull is really strong and initially made for 10/15cc engine. Cabin structure quite testing to assemble. I have totally re worked mine. Quite a rare kit and probably collectable. Would probably sell well on e bay. Fleetscale do a hull deck and running gear but the cabin would be a challenge due to its unique shape and flying bridge. An excellent find. Regards Kevin

Maree III sharpie 10 Rater by steve-d Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 5 days ago
Maree III is a 10 Rater Sharpie design by A Wilcock dating back to 1958. MM plan MM/504. I first built her in 1996 but as with all these things family life got in the way or changed and I stopped taking her out. At some point I must have sold her but I can’t remember how or when. A few weeks back I decided to build something again and found the original plans under the bench so where better to start than there. I also found the MM Plans catalogue which is how I found the first date (Plan ordered 06/08/1996 pencilled in the margin). The original design does not have a bulb keel but I have decided mine will but not with the narrow carbon fin as used on the latest boat designs. She is also not for competition so I plan to include a cabin top for a more ‘scale’ appearance. Must give my thanks early on for the help I have had from David Creed who researched some old plans to find me a suitable design for the bulb keel but with a quite broad fin. As a result I have now made a plug for the bulb and a box in which to make the silicone mould. I have also cut out all the rib moulds so I can start laying up the hull. It is a monocoque design so these are just to build the hull shape. There will then only be a couple of ribs around the keel mount and mast step to add strength in those areas. Been buying materials but it is not easy as the plans have very little info on the sails and rigging.

Another toy pond yacht???? by Colin H. Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 6 days ago
Picked this baby up on freecycle, hull length is 19" with a beam of 4". Will need a good clean up and repaint sails are a bit rotten so will need to be replicated. Mast and booms are okay, just need to be cleaned up before refitting. Now I need to find out what make and model it is also don't know what colour it should be as the person who gave it said it had been repainted at least twice in the last 25 years. Sorry but the app is not uploading photo's. Cheers Colin.

Rudders and Propellers by teejay Commander   Posted: 6 days ago
Hi all for the second blog report on the schnellboot I am going to go over the rudder a propeller shaft assembly in more detail. The first stage was to make the rudders which were made of brass ,and having taken note of what has been said about the increase in size needed for the kit by other members I have increased the size of the rudders by 50% so that they have more effect and hopefully the boat will be more agile .I fitted 3mm treaded rod on to the rudder and in a 4mm flanged tube to reinforce the brass rod. The second stage was to make and fit 5mm flanged tube in the location for the rudders in the boat, these were made to be above the water line and will be sealed in place to reduce the possibility of leaks. These were fitted to a rudder platform inside the boat which was fitted to the kit moulding for the rubbing strip that runs the length on the boat and secured by making resin blocks which were fitted with computer extension nuts. which were then superglue in place to secure the rudder platform. The rudders were then fitted in place and held in position with the tiller collars which were made from 8mm rod and fitted the tiller arms and locked in place with 3mm computer screws and ni-lock nuts, a connecting plate was then fitted to connect the three tillers together, I also fitted rubberised washers to seal the rudder tubes. The third stage was to make the propeller supports. The centre support was a direct copy of the kit part made of brass and fitted to the kit with a plate and screws (this plate and the rudder plate were made from galvanised steel) and will sealed with resin after the I test the boat for leaks. The port and starboard supports were made by taking the kit parts and cutting them in have along the joint line or mould seam this gave me a template ,which I used to make cross-section segments but I did alter the template by increasing the boss diameter to 10mm and extending the support legs so that the finished support could be fitted through the hull (the picture of these show the mk1 version where I forgot to allow for the 4mm prop shaft which has a 6mm tube) any way the boss of these segments were drilled out with a 7mm drill and a length of 7mm brass tube fitted through the boss to assemble the segments, all of which were coated in soldering flux at this stage of the assembly which were riveted at both ends to hold it all together during soldering, after soldering the supports were then filed to the size and shape to resemble the kit parts as close as possible and fitted to the hull using a superglue and talcum powder mix and then I cast resin around the extensions to secure the prop supports in place. The fourth stage is the propeller shaft housing for the centre propeller housing I place a brass rod in a plastic straw and place in position in hull and using resin I sealed the hull with the rod in place this gave me a pilot hole for the centre prop shaft after I removed the brass rod. For the port and starboard shafts I used the kit parts which had hole place when assembled, this when I reinforced the housings ,the centre housing I glue 2mm of plasticard on each side and for the port and starboard I made a brass tube shroud which covered the housings which left gaps between the kit part and the brass which was filled by casting resin in the gap this increased the diameter to 10 mm so that there were little chance of breaking throw with the drill and finished these off by fill-in the outside with body filler and sanded to shape and finish . I then drilled through the pilot hole in the housings using very long extended drills and a wheel brace ( if I had use a power drill the heat would have melted the plastic of the kit and may have caused problems) I drill the shaft housings out 6mm them filed them out with 6mm file so that I could insert a length of 6mm brass tube. After all this was done I fitted a flanged bush made from 7mm tube and 2mm brass plate turned to 11mm to the ends or the propeller shaft housings. And now it is time I must ask for some help could anyone advise me on the length of propeller shafts, I know I can use a 300mm shaft for the centre shaft, but port and starboard will have to be longer. and I also need advice on selecting the motors, I want to use 4mm prop shaft with 35mm propellers. Any opinions welcome.

1-35 Scale Schenllboot By TeeJay by teejay Commander   Posted: 6 days ago
Hi all this is my first blog, last year I post my intention to do a project about an RAF D boat that my Father served on and as a precursor to that build That I was going to do this S/E boat as the hull design is shared by both, and as plastic kit modeller the kit great the first stage was to put together the decks and superstructure as normal, with the exception of all the bits that would be easily broken as most kit aircraft modellers aerials and guns tend to brake ,so long ago I got into the habit of making these out brass rod or bar using a mini drill and a set of needle files, holding the drill in my left hand and the files in my right, when started this I saw the number of stanches I needed so I came across this little beauty a mini bead lathe it is a great bit of kit and not expensive less than £50 and plenty of types and accessories available so all the stanches aerials hand rails, gun rails, horn, and some of the components for the rudder and tiller were made on this lathe. so good time being had in my first radio control boat. the next post will show all the parts for the rudder/tiller setup ( I have reposted blog because I think I did not do it properly first time round)

USGC Island class fg hull. by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 7 days ago
Hi, I'm up for one. I might build her as the original VT 108' PB design. See pic. On the other hand; the CG Cutter would make a change. If you can get this off the ground a copy of your plans would be most welcome. Cheers, Doug 😎

USGC Island class fg hull. by epmbcmember Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 7 days ago
I wish to build a USCG Island class cutter. I have a full set of plans but I am not too brilliant at making hulls from scratch. I have found a possible source, MTBHulls of Gibralta, of getting a fibre glass hull at 1/48 scale but they need an order of 4 to produce one. They produce many different hulls but not this one, hence the requirement for 4 to make it viable to make a new hull. So I am looking for 3 other model makers who may be interested in buying one of these hulls at approx. £55 each plus any cost for me to post them on or deliver. The Island class cutter is 110 feet long, which would make a model just over 2 foot long, and based on a Vosper Thornycroft design but built in the States. I believe there were about 80 built of which 35 remain in service. There are many pictures of them on the internet which is where I got the plans from but I am happy to copy the plans if anyone is interested.

1/36 Ady Gil Trimaran Wave Piercer by rcmodelboats Lieutenant   Posted: 7 days ago
This build started out as a crap toy speed boat that resembled the New zealand wave piecer Ady Gil (ex- Earthrace) that was cut in two in 2010 by the illegal japanese whaling vessel Shonan Maru no2. The original speedboat toy was 22 inchs long and had straight wings that connected the pontoons, the wings and the pontoons have been changed and custom made onto the existing hull and the bow has been extended and sharpened (now 26in), the stern has been rounded. The hull has now been gel coated and i have started sanding it back.

LED Tug Mast Navigation Lights by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 7 days ago
Hi Pete, welcome back😊 Glad your eyeballs have cleared up 👍 Just ordered new goggles yesterday, should be here end of the month, then I can fiddle with 1mm LEDs again - maybe😉 No, I didn't put a plug and socket at the base of the mast. I hard wired it into connections in the wheelhouse roof. Then took all the wires down through the funnels until they poked out the bottom of the main cabin. That's it for now. The mast is not glued in, it's a tight push fit so can still be folded down a bit. Later I'll make the little distribution board and put the plug and socket there so I can still remove the whole superstructure for maintenance. No again, I haven't done any more on the Southampton yet. Been busy fiddling with my fish cutter Gina 2, hull preparation and preliminary coat of white paint, and cleaning up Colin's vintage Taycol field coil motor. See Electrical Blogs 'Taycol Supermarine'. Cheers, Doug 😎