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>> Home > Tags > hull

hull
hull
HMCS Agassiz by Rod Petty Officer   Posted: 1 day ago
Basically scratch Built except for the hull supplied by Fleetscale Scale 1:48 Canadian Corvette and powered by single screw Saito steam engine Lighting throughout with bilge pump and Asdic sound system Sails scale speed beautifully with smoke generator adding realism To steam power

MISS GEICO POWER BOAT 29" by agoodboater Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 1 day ago
for sale R C Miss Geico 29" brushless power boat twin hull complete set up with Spektrum DX2 radio control, inc 4 x 4000mah S2 lipo batteries very fast !! this is all brand new i bought this over a year ago and never used, so in near mint condition, change of circumstances forces sale at £275, cost me £430, so i am taking a big loss, but ha thats the hobby !!, ****cash on collection only **** TO VIEW 07903765943

Planking the Hull by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 days ago
Thanks for the update Kevin Descriptions with pics help new and aspiring modellers to perhaps start building. Our members have a wealth of information and are very good at providing solutions or help. Dave

Planking the Hull by sandkb Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 2 days ago
Various wood used ie, Ramin, Mahogani, Annegre, Veneer ply, Balsa. Strip planking is Obechi. Glues used: Cyno, Aliphatic wood glue where sanding required and where strength and waterproof glue is required I've used EpiGlue two pot Marine glue. The planking is used because of the many difficult shapes and curves of the hull construction. Once the sanding and shaping of the hull is completed the hull will be sheathed with a fibreglass cloth skin and resin then sanded smooth and spray painted replicating the steel hull of this vessel. Cheers, Kevin

Graf Spee by RNinMunich Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 3 days ago
[Score: 5/10] 58" Graf Spee Twin Propellors (3 Blade 35mm) Direct Drive to a 600 (3 Blade) Powered by Lead Acid (12v) 4Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through Graupner Navy V30R (30Amps) ESC - Comments: It's a Graupner premium line ATR! ;-/ Wanted some 'quick fun' while working on more complex constructions (HMS Hotspur H Class Destroyer 1936, 1:72 and Type IIA U26 also 1936). Didn't work out that way! On first test of motors and ESC I discovered that the shafts were so badly fitted that they were binding ;-( So back in dry dock for some hull surgery! That's why some inputs are missing above. Plan is to gradually add functions and special effects; lighting, gun controls, magicians Flash Paper for gun flashes. Maybe fired using my old glow-plugs!!?? Now I'm freshly retired I have more time for this ;-), as long as Gisela doesn't drag me off around the world too often ;-) I also have HMS Belfast from the same series (approx 1:128) also awaiting fitting out. More soon - don't hold your breath please ;-) In the pipeline is some 'Plastic Magic' with Ark Royal, Hood and Bismark all to 350 scale ca 70-80cm. Sorry been in Munich for over 30 years don't think in inches any more (except when buying mag wheels for the chariot!) Cheers, and as my German boating friends say 'Immer ein Handbreite Wasser unterm Kiel!) = I wish you always a hand-widths water under your keel. PS How do I add a Sailing Location to the profile?? I sail on the lake in the Ostpark near me in Munich. Very convenient, right next to the Biergarten! 😎

Planking the Hull by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 5 days ago
Good detailed photos of the build. Be good to hear what wood, glue and and tools you used Dave

Planking the Hull by sandkb Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 5 days ago
More pics of the hull planking progress during the last year.

HMCS Sackville - WWII Corvette by gordc Petty Officer   Posted: 5 days ago
About 25 years ago I started building a Stuart Turner double 10 steam engine and soon after, I decided to build a boat to put it in. The photos show how far I've got. It's a model of a WWII corvette, HMCS Sackville. The original ship has been restored and is on display in Halifax, Nova Scotia. I've built it to a scale of 5/16" to the foot in order to have a displacement of roughly 40 pounds, which I figured I would need to accommodate the steam plant. It has an overall length is 65" and a 10" beam. The 5/16" scale also means that I have to make all the fittings for the boat from scratch. I'm working on the 4" gun right now. I had the hull in the water for the first time last September and discovered that the pitch of the propeller needed increasing and that the boiler couldn't make enough steam to keep the engine running at 600 rpm. The boat just sat there going nowhere. I've increased the propeller pitch and enlarged the burner orifice on the centre-flue boiler to increase the heat input, so I hope to do better this summer.

SENTINEL. Customs cutter. by 2283eric Petty Officer   Posted: 6 days ago
[Score: 8/10] 37"/3600g SENTINEL. Customs cutter. Capable of 6mph Twin Propellors (2 Blade X Type 35mm) Direct Drive to a MFA/ como drills (2 Blade X Type) Powered by NiCad (7.2v) Batteries Controlled Through Electronize FR15HX ESC - Comments: This is the first boat I had made using about eight sheets of plain styrene sheet.cutting all the parts,and using a vernier gauge to help me make exact parts. A full set of instructions came with the kit and I found it very easy to follow. The hull is very good.sailing on calm sunny days it sits in the water perfect, turning at speed is very realistic, in leans like motor bike.I built this some time ago and I never stop looking at it and thinking what else can I do to make this more realistic,so now it's back on the table and I'm planning to make the radars work, and after this nav/ lights, and on.

Father's illness. by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 6 days ago
Sorry to hear that Colin is not well. I believe he was in discussion with AlanP last year regarding a couple of hulls Alan was wishing to move on. Please pass on my best wishes for a speedy recovery. Dave

Falcon 2 FSR Endurance Racer by andycoburn Lieutenant   Posted: 7 days ago
The hull was bought from Modell Marin in Sweden owned by Fredde Cederberg, the current Naviga European Champion. It is an ultra-light Carbon/Kevlar/Epoxy composite.

Steam Launch. "Sweet Sue " by sandkb Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 7 days ago
I built this vessel from scratch using a pre made clinker fibreglass hull purchased from Mini Steam Australia. The engine is an oscillating twin cylinder and the boiler is a 3" Centre Flue Gas Fired Vertical Boiler from "Miniature Steam". The gas tank is a 1-1/2" vertical refillable GasTank also from Miniature Steam Pty. Australia. The vessel is radio controlled with the skipper appearing to control the rudder. It has a smoke generator and a rc controlled steam whistle.

The Hull Markings by robbob Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 8 days ago
The paint on the hull has sufficiently hardened and needs a couple of coats of clear lacquer to protect it but before that happens I need to apply the hull markings. The waterslide decal set that was supplied with my kit was probably at least 5 years old when I bought the kit on eBay and they had deteriorated so badly that when I put the large ‘FIRE’ lettering panel in some warm water it fragmented and clearly was not usable. I called Mike Cummings at vintage Model works and explained my dilemma and he very generously agreed to supply me with a replacement set, and in addition a set of the recently available printed vinyl letters and markings that they now produce. I decided to use the vinyl set as a quick test piece with the waterslide set revealed that the white ink is not solid and therefore not completely opaque. Furthermore I could not eliminate the ‘silvering’ effect that happens on waterslide decals despite using various lotions and potions such as Humbrol Decalfix and Microsol/Microset solutions. A test piece with the vinyl lettering sheet was far more successful and when over-lacquered on the test piece the results were very acceptable. Starting with the large FIRE lettering I cut a paper template the same size as the complete word and fixed this with low tack masking tape on the hull, this paper was then outlined in more masking tape to form a window and the vertical spacing of the letters transferred to this to keep the correct spacing. Vertical strips of tape were then used as positioning guides for the letters which were individually cut and placed so that I could eliminate all but the solid white letters and give them a hard edge. Feeling very pleased with myself I removed the masking tape guides and realised to my horror that I had set the baseline of the letters far too close to the waterline and the vertical proportions were completely wrong ….disaster 😱 Feeling ashamed that I could make such a basic error I abandoned the lettering and called Mike at VMW and described my foolish error, no problem he said, I’ll send you another vinyl sheet and also some additional drawing that were missing from my kit that would help with detail finishing. My second attempt with the new vinyl sheet employed the same process but I was careful to measure, mark and check the positions (several times!) before starting. The roundel and numerals positions at the bow and the stern were carefully measured and marked using the supplied drawings and masking tape ‘guides’ used to fix their positions before application. Lastly the roman numerals that span the waterline at the bow and stern were marked, cut and individually applied. I also took the opportunity to fix in place a couple of modified 6mm portholes to replicate the aft cockpit drain outlets, in the photo is the ‘94’ waterslide decal which I later removed and replaced with vinyl when I could not eliminate the ‘silvering’ problem. A big Thank You to Mike Cummings at Vintage Model works for replacing the lettering sheets TWICE! and for the extra drawings, I call that exceptional after sales service !. Cheers Mike 👍👍 .

Feathering set up by Trillium Lieutenant   Posted: 9 days ago
A beam was needed to support the pivot for the feathering mechanism. It was made to straddle the gap between the two sponson supports. There’s even less information available about this than there was for the feathering mechanism. My second attempt was the best solution and comprised the following parts. - Two 3/8” lengths of ¼” brass angle; with a clearance hole drilled in the top flange near one end, to suit the small sheet metal screws I had on hand - A length of 1/8” x ¼” rectangular brass tube to span the gap between the sponsons. - Approx 2” length of ¼” x 0.030” thick brass strip - A ½” length of ½” wide by 0.030”thick brass strip - A 7mm length of 3/16” brass tube as a bushing for the pivot. The rectangular tube was cut to length to fit across the sponson supports and inside the paddle boxes. The two pieces of ¼” angle were soldered at right angles under the ends of the 1/8” x ¼” tube. The paddle wheel and the beam were placed in position. The paddle wheel was set up while stationary to position the paddles so that one was on bottom dead centre and vertical. The axial position of the pivot point centre was marked on the beam, and the distance below the edge of the beam measured. The top edge of the ½” square strip was intended to be flush with the top of the beam, and a 3/16” hole was drilled through the former at the pivot point centre. This was soldered to the ¼” wide brass strip, and then the 3/16” tube soldered into the hole. The drill press was used to set it at right angles to the strip for soldering. The strip was joggled, to ensure the rotating paddles cleared the support beam, and with the 3/16” tube on the side nearest the hull. The brass strip was clamped to the support beam, with the complete assembly in place, and the pivot position adjusted to give the optimum motion of the mechanism. The brass strip was soldered to the support beam, and then removed and painted.

1mtr yacht by Northumbrian Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 10 days ago
Thanks to everyone who replied i have now been sorted👍 does anyone have a 1mtr yacht or a hull for sale