All donations are securely managed through PayPal. Amounts donated are not published online.
Many thanks for your kind support.
Model Boats Website Team
December 2017: 2 people November 2017: 13 people October 2017: 9 people September 2017: 15 people August 2017: 10 people July 2017: 16 people June 2017: 8 people May 2017: 8 people April 2017: 19 people
http://ellisboat.com/bunker-and-ellis-downeast-boatbuilders/ The Ellis boats must have been the inspiration for this old kit from Midwest. I bought the boat as seen in the first photos which was built by Don Sutton, Metro Modellers Toronto, Ontario, Canada 🇨🇦 He knew I had my eye on making one from scratch and offered me a fair price to buy his boat. I am now adding the hard cover over the cockpit as seen on many of the Bunker & Ellis boats. Previously I added deck furniture to the helm and passenger. Also found the near scale figures. My plan is to add the forward railing around the bow; add deck boards and more furnishings such as two step boarding ladder, navigation equipment, and possible a fresh coat of paint to the hull.
BRAVO ZULU! Very fine replica, sir. In relation, I am about to build a 1:48, 35" USCG 140' Bay Class Icebreaking tug, USCGC KATMAI BAY (WTGB-101). I was fortunate to sail aboard her in the mid '80s, and it's a pipe dream come true to build a scale RC replica of her. In fact, I have the matching 1:48 hull of a USCG 210' WMEC, USCGC VIGOROUS (WMEC-627), that I served aboard prior to. I am just now beginning to research CCG rescue vessels & small craft. I reckon that will take another adult childhood to discover! THANK YOU! HAVE A SAFE RC BOATING DAY. FAIR WINDS & FOLLOWING SEAS
Hi Roy I agree well made prop shafts such as supplied by Raboesch are excellent. Personally I make my own to scale and length as I have the materials and lathes with which to fabricate them. My experience over many years is that over time the bearings and shafts wear and will require replacing at some time. I have used oiling tubes and stuffing boxes for best results, the latter make small leak repairs simple, but if the prop end bearing has worn it needs replacing. Our last club sailing waters were saline and I had to replace the bearings in all the models I sailed there. I used to wash the model hulls after every sail but it didn't help. I use a thick oil in the tubes.
Hi Hugh. Thanks for you input. I find other peoples ideas and methods very helpful as a bit of a rookie !!! You're a brave man working from scratch, I haven't attempted building a hull yet but who knows what tomorrow will bring. Hope the weather in OZ is kinder to you than what is happening here in Blighty. Good luck with the build buddy, I'll keep you updated ! Alan
Your keel shape is a bit longer but very similar Here is some info I have gleaned. Full scale 8 Metre boats - meaning 8 metres at the waterline - go back to around 1907 and they proved extremely popular with around 140 being built around Europe during the first seven years alone. It was a time of very rapid boat development and equally rapid evolution of class rules. At one stage 'Metre Boats' were allowed one foot of beam for every metre of waterline length, a possibly unique combination of metric and imperial in an International Rule. Current 8M boats derive from a model obtained 5-10 years ago by Robin Edgar and Alan Woodroffe of the Southwater Dabblers MBC who thought it was based on a J-Class. However, it was later found that what they had was a model of a Fife 8 Metre instead. In any event, the boat remained of great interest because the hull shape and relatively low draught makes it an excellent choice for shallow waters and especially for ponds with bad weed. They used the model to create some 50+ hulls. Can you tell me more about your mini 12
BTW: I've had for years a Fleetscale 1:72 hull for an H class Flotilla Leader destroyer. Since I've already got a scratch built HMS Hotspur I've been considering converting it into a County class cruiser hull, HMS Kent my home county. Your blog has set the grey cells and cogs in motion👍 I drive a Toyota - 'Nothing is impossible' 😉 Keep up the good work (and blog). Cheers Doug 😎
Hi Everyone. My next build is a Clyde Puffer in the guise of Auld Reekie/Vital Spark ! I am starting with a 1/24 Scale GRP Hull from Orion Mouldings. I am in need of a bit of forward planning assistance so if anyone has built from the same hull or very similar I would be grateful for some input as regards size of electric motor length of shaft and prop size and anything else that could be of help to me. This is only my second build so I am still, very much a rookie !!! Alan.
So whilst the hull saga continues ,thought I would do some work on the wheelhouse deck funnels are the tube that gas welding rods come in ,3D printed the vent cowls long live thingyverse ,the rails are 1.6mild steel gas welding rod and the stanchions 20mm x1.6mm split pins soldered at the joints ,the only colour mentioned in the book was yellow funnels so went for a subtle matt shade rather than bright gloss used the same colour for the vents
Good job 👍 Had a similar problem many moons ago with the bow on the upper hull of my Type 1A U Boat. Also fixed it with judicial cutting and epoxy. The original 'cut & paste' !? 😉 Following with great interest, can't wait for the next instalment. Cheers Doug 😎
As the superstructure rose in height it confirmed a suspicion that had been growing for some time. In spite of the copious checks during construction, the leading edge of the bow was twisted slightly by about 3/32” towards starboard at it's base. Not sure how this developed, can only guess there was a slight misalignment during the original modifications that eventually grew to become clearly visible. It was the kind of defect only discernible to a careful observer - or me! Initially hoped to avoid corrective action, but the superstructure build seemed to emphasis the twist. The model is now looking quite good; it would be a pity to compromise it with an elementary, but fundamental, issue such as this. After many measurements, including using spirit levels and squares, decided to cut the trusty bow coat hangar loose, reposition it carefully laterally and then epoxy into place. The longitudinal shape was fine. The pictures show the twist, the cut and then the amount of reposition required. Reconstruction followed the original bow addition procedure. There was a lot of sanding required on the starboard side of the bow to realign the bow and hull transition. Fortunately, this was limited to the addition area, so neither the mechanical nor water sealed qualities of the original Velarde hull have been compromised. After repainting and finishing, all looked well, as shown in the final picture. Concluded this repair was indeed worth the effort. The problem would have been exaggerated in my mind to spoil my enjoyment and then pride in the model. Glass fibre is remarkably forgiving and there should be no reluctance to embark on such modifications when necessary.