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>> Home > Tags > hull

Pics of running gear and skins by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 hours ago
The pic posted by Inkoust says it all really. The original Aerokits and many other models from the 1960s all had steep angled propshafts. This was necessary to allow for the large IC engines fitted. Modern electric motors do not require the same depth inside the hull so the prop shaft can be mounted at a much lesser angle, producing a faster and more controllable model. It would be relatively easy to alter your set-up before you add the rest of the skins. Even with a 50mm prop there is still about an inch to lose. I appreciate this may not be your first choice but believe the end result will justify the effort Dave

Slowly does it. by fid2b Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 10 hours ago
All getting involved now! I suspect it looks worse in the pictures because the prop thrust will definitely pass over the rudder although perhaps not ideally. And I don't have a cardan shaft, just a uj because as I said, simple appealled for a part time hobby as this is to me. My aim was to see if I could form the wooden hull like my Dad did on the fireboat cos I always admired the shape but of course I would like to finish the job eventually 😀

Slowly does it. by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 10 hours ago
I would say you've achieved your main objective magnificently 👍 The hull is looking really good. But the shaft angle is maybe 3 times the optimum, based on looking at my Aerokits Sea Scout layout and Sonar's advice! Looks like there is plenty of scope in the hull to mount the motor further forward and much deeper and still be able to fit a pretty large prop. But bigger isn't always better! Not really my expertise but would guess with 50mm you risk overloading the motor!? I'm sure the experts here can advise you better on that than I. You may also find the boat more responsive to the rudder if the prop thrust is directed at the rudder instead of more below it as it seems to be now? Cheers Doug 😎

Slowly does it. by sonar Admiral   Posted: 11 hours ago
lower the motor mounting as close as you can to the bottom of the hull making sure the propellor does not touch the underside of the external hull if this makes sense

Slowly does it. by sonar Admiral   Posted: 11 hours ago
Or as close as possible depending on the shape of the hull

Slowly does it. by fid2b Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 11 hours ago
I would tend to agree! The more it pushes forward the better of course. But I largely copied my 36" fireboat and to get the prop dia options up to about 50mm it needs quite a angle. I didn't want to complicate the drive line either as my main interest was in forming the hull, just to see if I could really. I suppose the proof will be in the sailing!

Slowly does it. by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 11 hours ago
Hi, Prop shaft seems, to my eyes, to be at a very steep angle! Would have thought it reduces forward thrust and / or tends to push the bow down. Is this normal for this type of boat? Maybe I'm just more used to displacement hulls, destroyers etc. Cheers Doug 😎

Slowly does it. by fid2b Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 22 hours ago
After a long pause I am as far as propshaft, motor and rudder installation. I need a servo next but spent all my pocket money climbing a mountain in Wales this month. It was good but wet. The motor lives on the usual alloy bracket, screwed to two wooden plinths made from strip laminated with araldite. It's all standard stuff but making it this way allowed me to shim the height correctly, the strip being about 1.5mm thick. I'll post some pics if I can work out the Google drive thing but you will also see that the lower skins are on and after the servo installation I can think about the upper hull skins and then the superstructure. All good stuff😀.

DAMEN STAN 4207 by RHBaker Admiral   Posted: 22 hours ago
First open water test went well, but with two caveats: 1) Would like to increase performance somewhat, closer to her looks. The initial tests of the unfinished hull showed adequate performance. As the detail and superstructure have been added, it has deteriorated. The increased weight of over 2 lbs has increased draft and wetted area, thus drag. 2) The bow is slightly low. Decided the best way to improve performance would be to increase the NiMh battery output from 7.2 to 9.6 volts. Thus added two more cells to the forward “C” cell holder. Also increased the LED resistor capacity and added a voltage reducer to avoid burning out the lights and bow thruster at this new voltage. By examining the drawings and the model layout decided to tackle the second by moving the forward battery carrier from just in front of, to just behind, the centre of gravity. Fortunately the Damen drawings show the C of G location. This increased the stern draught by about 1/4”, with the bow similarly decreased. Also reduced the stern ballast to about 3 oz. A further open water test showed an nice improvement in speed with the model now sitting on the waterline. Running time exceeds an hour, she also looks trim and purposeful. Think this is about as fast as an 9.6 NiMh installation will operate. Adding more cells will increase weight, adding to the draught. Am toying with trying a LI-PO installation in the future. This will provide increased voltage with a weight reduction, but rather costly though. Have decided to enjoy the model as she currently is; there is plenty to look at with the working fire hydrant, the bow thruster, the work and navigation lights. Will concentrate on launching and making the RIB operate, have some ideas on how to do this and will report in due course.

Paint removal by NickW Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 24 hours ago
Thanks....I was hoping to sand the deck back to a state where I could varnish rather than paint....quite happy to re-paint the hull etc

Paint removal by NickW Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 1 day ago
Hello again.....yes it's me, just wondering whats best to use to take paint off your pride and joy that hasn't a lot of pride and no joy!! I think the hull and deck of my no pride & joy maybe GRP etc....def not wood so if anyone can help i'd appreciate it - thanks :-)

Jet Sprint Boat by Midlife306 Commander   Posted: 1 day ago
I need one, looks well Rod. The decking the hull is sat on gives the scale away nicely. Any chance of a pic with a 12" ruler next to it (or a cigarette packet, that's what I use😂) Cheers Wayne

Jet Sprint Boat by rolfman2000 Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 1 day ago
The finished hull looks great. Can't wait to see the top moulding sat on top of it 😀 Still living in hope that I may be able to get one of these to fit out and use. Best wishes, Dave W 😊

Jet Sprint Boat by sonar Admiral   Posted: 1 day ago
A hull at last well done. Whats the sizes of the hull ? An Image give,s away no size

Hello by deepdiver Recruit   Posted: 2 days ago
Hi First sorry that I have not made myself known before, bad insight on me and thank you for the add. O.K I have now left work and joined the ranks of the G.O.M. I have been modeling boat's (Sub's) for some time, mainly the WW2 "T" class, some time back I got Brian of Mobile Model Marine to let me have the first Lady "T" hull as I took a liking of the mock up that he had on his stand, and from that I have now moved onto tug's from the early 1900's.👍 My other love's other than my Wife are my Ducati 900ssie, and my SLK.😎 I am also a member of the Swiss Cottage MBC, and I do hope that in time I will meet up with some of you at the show.s All the best Fred