Wife bought me a nice little book cheaper than the original cover price ,decided nice little paddle tug would be the next project enlarged the drawing in the book to desired size hull will be 30"(760mm)long keel and frames were laser cut will build the hull and plank then cut out for the paddle boxes ,don't know if this is the right way but it made sense to me
As the stern needed the most reshaping, decided to tackle it first. Made up a wooden insert to reflect the correct deck stern contour and glued it in between the deck supports. This would give the stern be the correct shape and length. Once that was positioned pulled the hull up tight to the supports. As the stern is approached the sharper profile of the Teakwood requires the hull sides to be pulled firmly inwards and the transom be vertical. Decided this was not going to epoxy and stay in place satisfactorily once the strain was released, so cut a series of vertical slots in the rear hull to allow it relax and squeeze it together. One slot has to be quite deep, otherwise the lower hull will crack as it will not relax sufficiently. Used the Dremel cutting disc for this. The slots need to be quite generous as the the hull has to be pulled in some distance. Once this was all epoxied in place, wrapped “cling film” around the rear of the hull and poured liquid fibreglass resin around the slots and under the insert to bond everything together. Worked this onto all the vertical and horizontal surfaces as it set. The stern is now good and rigid. The attached pictures show the new stern profile and slots. The first pictures are “as is” to illustrate the process. Further work was also needed to true up the bulwarks and disguise the slots. This mutilation may seem a brutal way of getting the hull shape correct, but had tried all kinds of pulling and squeezing of the hull, none of which held in place after the clamps were released. Once the cosmetic aspects of the stern rework were complete, established the correct location for the rudder post and fitted it. The major stern work is now finished.
Having to clear up before going away for a while. Table top to clear and case to pack. I have tried to load a small video, my first one, but this is my fourth try at uploading. I would show that, thanks to the help of so many of you, I have made a trial setup of the sound unit in the Hull using the exciters. Had to have a go before I left (spoilt Brat). It works! Happy with volume, even with decking off but volume control only half advanced and can function horn separate to engine sounds. Dave M and Doug to name a couple have really helped me through to this point. When I return, I will install properly and take images as this video does not seem to want to play with me. Next challenge...the Esc/Mixer Cheers to all. NPJ
Found this model in a junk shop in Lincolnshire , no motor or radio gear. Not done any boat modelling for many years so I took it home. The hull and cab are pretty solid for a 30 year old so i will start off by stripping the paint and giving it a freshen up, then I plan to add windows which I have cut from 3mm perspex and lower the rear deck. Also I am toying with a plan to convert the cabin into a mk2 sportsman by adding a top deck and radio mast, then finish off with a few scale figures and fittings. I will keep adding photos as I progress, if you are reading this and have a sportsman I would love to see what you have done with yours, regards, Nick.
[Score: 9/10] 60"/7600g Schooner - Comments: Scratch built with mahogany planks on the club's mould. Glass cloth and fibreglass inside and protected with G4 polyurethane resin all over. Uses a sail winch (Hitec) and travelling dolly for the two main sails and a separate arm servo for the foresails. Standard servo for the rudder. Power is from a 6.6v 1000mA LiFe battery. Taranis Tx using two sticks with the sail servos connected via an internal mixer to one stick. Ballast is fixed to the keel with two studs which extend into the hull where a steel bar is attached between both and acts as a carrying handle.
Certainly contact the seller, it looks like it is a one piece moulding with the hull, a worry would be if it broke in transit it is a weak point and maybe you need to beef up that area. When you contact seller, send photos of the packing as well as the damaged hull Mark
Hi Mate, welcome it the forum, the motor and prop seem ok, a general rule of thumb is prop diameter less than the motor, so you should be ok with this. Your thoughts on batteries, a pair of 2s or 3s lipo's 2200mah in parallel should give you 30 - 40 mins runtime, more if you are kind with the throttle, remember that you must have access to remove the batteries for charging!!! you will also get a reasonable turn of speed but the hull design won't go fast, they are cruising hulls not deep V speed hulls, when testing check for heat either the motor or the ESC, show some pics and lets see how you are doing Mark
If you are keeping the smoker, follow the leads into the circuit board and mark them same with the lighting. Cut close to the board and the same with the plug leads from the hull. Join them together (solder is best with heat shrink) that way you retain the plug and play to the superstructure. Also by removing the radio board a little of the top weight is removed.
Another good day of detailing. Have finished the light thingy, laquered the whole thing, made the grappleing poles, touched up paint where necesary. Still to fit the light bulbs, searchlight, front hatch, lifebelt and radar, all post laqueing things. will have to wait until next week as back at work tomorrow. probably about 3 hours of work left on superscructure before returning to the hull.
Had a little time & the weather was great so worked outside putting the hull skins on I used Door skin mahogany .A sheet was about $ 9.00 Canadian Next time I use Oak Door skin That's about $23.00 a sheet . Have to now take my time & smooth all the parts .I also sealed the inside of hull with a 2 part finishing epoxy.
First attempt at a full scratch build, a 32" Downeast / Lobster boat style hull in ply, to be built to my own design as a picnic / fun boat. Have acquired an MFA Torpedo 500 and a 40mm 4 blade Raboesch prop, 175 series I think. Hoping to run direct drive. Any advice on battery size voltage and Mah to get a turn of speed if required and a reasonable run time. Lipo preferably as I have a 2/3 cell charger from a previous project and limited space only in front third of hull. TX for any advice received
Layout and Limitations Although I am really quite desperate to get on and put a few bits in, it did strike me that before I mess the current systems up on the Tug, maybe I should find out how they work. So although I am leaving the Bridge/Wheelhouse until after the Hull layout is resolved, I need to check out what connections are made to what before I detach it from the Hull. So having a look in you see a busy circuit board and a plastic bottle! Pic 12 -16 What is needed is to determine which leads activate which features before I start chopping leads to separate Hull from Bridge. To this end I attached the standard battery and fired up the Tranny. I reconnected the leads that I had unplugged and switched the boat switch to on. Pic 17/18 Action of motors, lights in three sets and ‘smoker’ cables were identified, but I have not found the ‘horn’ yet. So that established what leads went to what and also raised the question for the future ‘what can be used later’. I noted that some cabling groups and routes from Hull to Bridge where given the ‘silicon treatment’ which I intend to reinstate before replacing the Deck. Having established how the setup works and what can possibly be retained, I removed the ‘standard’ battery, unplugged it all again and loaded potential ‘extras’ into the Hull to see how it would sit in the water. Now I can separate the Hull from the Bridge completely which enables me to have a good look at potential layout and consider weight and its distribution. I did in the early days mark the waterline as it was with standard equipment and also the CoG point fore/aft, for later comparisons. Forgot about Lateral but I assume centre line....................... Maybe pointless, but I made a drawing of the Hull and also laid out some of the components that may be used in the Hull itself. Pics 14/15. Currently the weight of these ‘extras’ amounts to 562 grams 19.8 ozs, from which must be deducted the ‘standard’ battery weight 104 grams 3.6 ozs, when considering real differences, so 458 grams, 16.2 ozs and still below waterline So I now have all these bits, the boat in three pieces and I am considering putting up a banner in the garage which would read... All the gear and no idea! Next move will be trial runs on the new motor control set up and checking out the sound system using the Transducers. NPJ
Hi Bellman My Club sail several similar boats as well as an Ibex. They are all fitted with detachable keels which are fitted prior to sailing but can be removed for transportation and display. Our sailing waters are large and exposed and without the keels the models would not be able to be sailed. On the water the keels can not be seen. I tried a long keel on my Cariad and it was not a success as the keel tended to keep the model in a straight line. I now use a detachable bulb keel. The amount of lead will depend on your model and its overall weight. The bulb keels are a fibreglass moulding that we fill with lead to bring the model to waterline after inserting fore and aft threaded rod into the bulb. You will need to have holes in the keel to let the rods thro and long enough to be above the waterline. I fit a plastic tube and wood support inside. A washer and nut hold the keel in place. Before filling with Resin weigh the resin in the tin and remove that amount of lead from the bulb. Once set I use silicon to make a good seal between the bulb and hull and which remains attached to the bulb. Attached are pics of my Cariad.