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>> Home > Tags > hull

hull
hull
Hull design by BigAlio Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 7 hours ago
help yourself, If you go to bing.com type in hull design there are many more pics available

Hull design by Julio Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 7 hours ago
I like it!!!... can I download the pics?

It’s been a long day! by Skydive130 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 17 hours ago
Yes I will be glass clothing the hull, it’s a process I rather enjoy and something I bring over from my aircraft days.

It’s been a long day! by Bobatsea Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 22 hours ago
Are you planning fibreglassing your hull? I did mine, 1 strip down the keel and around the stern, then both sides. Currently on coat # 5 of resin with sanding in between.

False Keel in place! by figtree7nts Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 23 hours ago
After grinding the flange that's 1/4" high. Took all day long! grind here, sand there! False keel is now in place. A bit of bondo to fill the gaps! Lots of sanding to do! there's a big difference between the fiberglass and the ABS. Lots more work to do on the ABS hull!

Formers in-planking starts! by Skydive130 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 day ago
So, this morning saw the remaining formers glued and weighted whilst setting. Have finished the day with laying down the first 2 planks up against the keel. Once I’ve got the 2 planks glued in against the other side of the keel will then add 1 or 2 planks each side at the same time and allow to set before moving on, all the time weighted down with my trusty vice in the hope of a straight hull at the end! All straights so far!

Trim the Keel! by figtree7nts Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 day ago
Unlike the fiberglass hull. that use to come with the Brooklyn. The ABS hull has to be trimmed down (Flange) to the hull! After this you'll put a 3/8" x 1/4" piece of plastic on the hull! This will then become the keel! Be careful not to go into the hull. While your trimming the hull!

It’s been a long day! by Bobatsea Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 1 day ago
A tip... My instructions had the planking stop at the stern hull transom boards. I planked the hull over the boards to make a nicer finish.

Hull design by BigAlio Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 1 day ago
hi found some interesting information on hull design. www.bing.com

Lady T by AlanP Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 day ago
The next stage was to fit the prop tubes and motors, MMModels prop tubes and T4 motors were used. Now I will admit that getting the tubes lined up and getting them to come out of the hull nearly horizontal gave me a lot of headaches. The hull had different thicknesses and shapes of fibreglass were the motors had to be fitted, the A frame markings on the hull, especially the inboard ones were way out, all of this plus the fact that the motors had to be fitted more or less on the bottom of the hull. Aligning pieces were made on the lathe to go between the prop shafts and the motors. Motor mounts were made from hardwood and shaped on a belt sander to fit the hull bottom. I think I had about five attempts at this stage using all sorts of pieces of ply with holes in them, wooden wedges and of course masking tape. Motor mounts, I only have one photo of these, holes drilled in hardwood with a hole cutter, then cut in two on the bandsaw to give two halves that can clamp the motor, draught excluder stuck on the inside and the two halves fastened together with two wood screws.

Resin on the Seam! by figtree7nts Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 days ago
Well now that my prop stuff arrived. I fent like working on the seam. That goes far and aft in the hull! Had to place a 1" wide fiberglass ribbon. Along the middle of the hull! Reinforcing the hulls inner keel!👍

Lady T by AlanP Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 days ago
This is a build of the LadyT from Mobile Marine Models, I am quite a way into the build now and have not taken photo's of every part of the build and I may get things a bit out of sequence, but I will do my best. The hull and a set of templates was given to me, I have found out that the templates in most cases are for guidence only. The hull is not one of the best mouldings I have had but with a bit of effort was knocked into shape. In order that the rudder could be removed from the boat for repair I glued a piece of 3mm brass strip to the hull with Araldit and P38 filler, another piece of brass with a hole to take the rudder was laid on top and two 3.3mm holes drilled through both pieces, the brass on the hull was tapped 4mm and the piece with the hole for the rudder was drilled 4mm clear and countersunck. By undoing the tiller arm and removing the two 4mm countersunk screws the rudder can be removed for repair. The rudder was made with thin ply and P38 using the drawing to make a template of the shape.

Too Powerful Brushless ? by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 days ago
Hi Graham You do have to support the prop shaft close to the bearings at each end. This is vital if you are to avoid a slight imbalance developing into an uncontrolled whipping and as you have experienced, damage to the shaft assembly. The support needs to be firmly attached to the hull and shaft close to the bearing to provide both vertical and horizontal support. The supports should ideally be within 1/8" of the bearings. If you are reinstalling the prop shaft then, as others have suggested, it may be an opportunity to move the motor towards the stern and use a shorter shaft, but still providing support near the bearings.

Too Powerful Brushless ? by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 days ago
With respect Graham, A 'Keelson' is always inside the boat / ship. It is a reinforcing beam laid across the top of the keel. Nothing outside the hull. Good luck with your fitting out and much fun sailing, Cheers Doug😎

Too Powerful Brushless ? by Traiderman Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 3 days ago
hi Dave M, well that was good info on the Lipo's i was going to put them in Parallel But certainly won't now! i will use one and then swap over when necessary as you suggest,Thanks! As far as the 500 watt motor is concerned, i have not purchased it as yet but as a previous post stated that i need a smaller wattage than 500 , i will carry on looking for a smaller wattage and low KV size motor, although all i seem to find are are very powerful ones! even on the web sites named in the post but i will phone them in the morning and ask. the Boat does have a keelson, a piece of angled wood below the hull and also one inside the boat and this shows about 1 1/2" of tube either end of the shaft to fit the supports. Thanks graham