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>> Home > Tags > humbrol

humbrol
humbrol
Spraying/hand painting by luckybill Seaman   Posted: 6 days ago
I was very pleased to see the texts re spraying, paints etc. I am fairly new to spraying my "Surfury" and it is taking some time. I certainly agree with all the statements on preparation, for me this divides into 2 categories. 1. Boat surface preparation. 2 Paint consistency/temperature/spraying. For 1 you cannot rush it, for as noted, gloss paint certainly shows up any imperfection so you must be dedicated to spend considerable time on this. But 2. Right or wrong, after sealing and undercoating (plus the rub down) I chose to use Humbrol enamels. There followed many weeks of spraying after getting the mix right, correcting my spraying technique, inevitable rub downs etc. I came to the conclusion that many thin coats were the norm and cleaning of the spray gun (Badger) after every use was mandatory! However, the best finish achieved was by spraying in a warm surrounding temperature. This was achieved in my garage with a small calor gas fire. I believe that this latter point is the most important of all. When the painting is complete I will post a few pictures. Thanks to everyone for their excellent, informative replies. Bill.

Hull ready to paint! by Skydive130 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Planking done, deck stained, some deck detail added (most detailing will follow painting and varnishing). Hull has had a good sanding with wet n dry and has had the grey primer added. Have also given the bottom of the hull a coat of red oxide primer. Following this and any blemish removal, I will get the airbrush fired up for Tamiya hull red for the bottom and then humbrol midnight blue for the upper hull sides. This will be separated with a strip of white trimline before adding rounders and lettering prior to laquer.

Safely Packed ??? by bilzin Lieutenant   Posted: 2 months ago
I ordered a tinlet of Humbrol (other paints are available) and hey ho, an Amazon (other..etc) carton the size of a developing nation arrived along with enough brown paper packing to entirely encompass my woman's glutes ! WOTTA WASTE

Superstructure finished! by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
I attached the plastic tube that came with the original kit with long brass nails. You need to just fit them so that you dont squash the tube. I painted the tube with a darkish red Humbrol before fitting. The fore and aft bits are the bulwarks and there is also a small rail running along the edges of the deck, but set in slightly. On the real boat they carried the stanchion bearers and acted as a foot stop. They also need to have washports to allow deck water to run off. I've attached a few pics of my Solent FYI. I agree it was not a scale model but at the time we used IC engines that required easy and large access and this was one of the more realistic models available. Many like yourself have added lots of detail and the finished result will look the part and will be a credit to you. Looking forward to seeing the finished Oxford Blue hull.

Varnish by onetenor Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
I always liked Humbrol Marine varnish. Hard ,Shiny, and fuel proof. Very clear. I don't know if their latest is as good .

PT109 Refit by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 months ago
YooHoo! Found a 37mm kit at right scale, and ordered😉 Now, where can I get some miniature baked-bean tins for the depth charges? 🤔 Gisela's Doll's House perhaps 😉 Hi Boaty, Ta for the info, I'll watch the temperatures! Thinks, must get a temp sensor or two for the telemetry feedback! Oh Woe where does it all end??😲 I bought my PTB from 'DadofBasil' complete with two 20something brushless. I intend to run it on a 2S LiPo 4000mAh. Humbrol paints are as rare as rocking horse droppings out here, but I found a source of the original WEM ColourCoat US26 MTB Green😊 Also have a paler version, like in the photos above, from Italeri (arrived today) so can (hopefully) achieve suitable sun-fading / weathering effects. 'Standard' anti fouling (matt brick red!) for lower hull like you! I want to build as it was when she got crunched by Amagiri, as far as possible considering all the partly conflicting versions and reports! For instance; Still trying to decide whether to leave the mast off completely or just fold it down! Cheers Doug 😎

PT109 Refit by boaty Commander   Posted: 4 months ago
Built an Italeri PT 109 about four years ago. Power is by a brushed 480 running on 2200 mha 7.4 Lipo. Drive is a single prop and it performs nicely at a scale speed but it can not be run flat out for too long as it will overheat and due to the excessive speed it can get slightly out of shape.. I used Humbrol Grass Green acrylic aerosol for the paint job with dull red from the waterline downwards. I built the model to its earlier spec with a life raft mounted on the bow in place of the later cannon which I believe was used for barge busting. Boaty

Decks by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 6 months ago
Hi Norm, All the weapons, boats and other 'hangers-on decks' are Humbrol colour Matt Sea Grey # 27, Revel approximate Matt Mouse Grey (Mausgrau) # 47. Don't know what paint type you use but I have several conversion charts so let me know and I'll see if I can find an equivalent. Flight deck is Matt U.S. Light (!) Green # 117, which is actually not so light, more of a Sea Grey-green. Arrester wires: On the Ark there are 8 ! According to my plan- #1 33.5m from the edge of the roll down, #2 6.6m from #1 #3 6.6m from #2 #4 7.33m from #3 #5 7.33m from #4 #6 6.95m from #5 #7 5.64 from #6 #8 5.26 from #7 No guarantee for accuracy!! Or even if 'Lusty' was the same but it's an indication. 😉 Your build is looking good 👍 I'm wondering if you are taking all this trouble why don't you go the 'whole hog' and bring her to life😉 Finish the hull and give her some motors 😊 No, I'm not in UK, I'm in Munich where I've been for the last 32 years, Tempus fugit😲, hence my forum name 😉 Cheers Doug 😎

muddy 6 Upperworks by muddy Captain   Posted: 9 months ago
Hello, Thank you, BUt the camera lies..! I did think i had cracked it last year, by masking up the the varnished parts after a long drying time, and then continue with the painting..A month or so later, when all was done, i tried to remove the masking tape/newspaper, but found the tape had stuck hard and was a dickens of a job to clean off, it also left residue of glue on the varnish so looked pretty terrible. Talcum powder did work, sprinkling it on the offending residue and rolling it along the deck, but not 100%.. As a footnote, i used Wilko spray enamel on this one's hull with undercoat/primer, all spray cans.. Cheaper than Halfords.. But Halfords were doing 4 spray cans for the price of 3.. The cabin was hand painted with Humbrol enamel.. Muddy

Finishing by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 9 months ago
👍Agree, my Sea Scout was enamel sprayed and I have a vast range of Humbrol and Revell enamel colours. 😎

Fantastic Plastic by onetenor Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 9 months ago
B&Q stock all colours of paint and looking at their corporate colour I would be surprised if they didn't stock orange paint Humbrol do /did a lovely orange and a flourescent one too. If all else fails go to an angling shop as they stock it for float 👍😊makers

The Hull Markings by robbob Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 11 months ago
The paint on the hull has sufficiently hardened and needs a couple of coats of clear lacquer to protect it but before that happens I need to apply the hull markings. The waterslide decal set that was supplied with my kit was probably at least 5 years old when I bought the kit on eBay and they had deteriorated so badly that when I put the large ‘FIRE’ lettering panel in some warm water it fragmented and clearly was not usable. I called Mike Cummings at vintage Model works and explained my dilemma and he very generously agreed to supply me with a replacement set, and in addition a set of the recently available printed vinyl letters and markings that they now produce. I decided to use the vinyl set as a quick test piece with the waterslide set revealed that the white ink is not solid and therefore not completely opaque. Furthermore I could not eliminate the ‘silvering’ effect that happens on waterslide decals despite using various lotions and potions such as Humbrol Decalfix and Microsol/Microset solutions. A test piece with the vinyl lettering sheet was far more successful and when over-lacquered on the test piece the results were very acceptable. Starting with the large FIRE lettering I cut a paper template the same size as the complete word and fixed this with low tack masking tape on the hull, this paper was then outlined in more masking tape to form a window and the vertical spacing of the letters transferred to this to keep the correct spacing. Vertical strips of tape were then used as positioning guides for the letters which were individually cut and placed so that I could eliminate all but the solid white letters and give them a hard edge. Feeling very pleased with myself I removed the masking tape guides and realised to my horror that I had set the baseline of the letters far too close to the waterline and the vertical proportions were completely wrong ….disaster 😱 Feeling ashamed that I could make such a basic error I abandoned the lettering and called Mike at VMW and described my foolish error, no problem he said, I’ll send you another vinyl sheet and also some additional drawing that were missing from my kit that would help with detail finishing. My second attempt with the new vinyl sheet employed the same process but I was careful to measure, mark and check the positions (several times!) before starting. The roundel and numerals positions at the bow and the stern were carefully measured and marked using the supplied drawings and masking tape ‘guides’ used to fix their positions before application. Lastly the roman numerals that span the waterline at the bow and stern were marked, cut and individually applied. I also took the opportunity to fix in place a couple of modified 6mm portholes to replicate the aft cockpit drain outlets, in the photo is the ‘94’ waterslide decal which I later removed and replaced with vinyl when I could not eliminate the ‘silvering’ problem. A big Thank You to Mike Cummings at Vintage Model works for replacing the lettering sheets TWICE! and for the extra drawings, I call that exceptional after sales service !. Cheers Mike 👍👍 .

flesh coloured paint by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 12 months ago
Hi Chris I also have the Humbrol flesh paint. To darken the skin I use a pallette and place a few drops of the Flesh paint on the surface together with separate drops of red brown yellow and black. Just a matter then of taking some of the flesh colour to a spare spot and adding and mixing in the different colours to produce the shade of skin you require. Keep a piece of white paper to try the mix on and see how it dries. To create stubble I use Black almost dry with a very stiff bristle brush previously dabbed on paper to remove most of the paint. The more you experiment the better you will get. Cheers Dave

flesh coloured paint by octman Captain   Posted: 12 months ago
I have some Humbrol 'flesh' enamel paint but it is baby pink rather than the ruffy tuffy tug boat deck hand that I want. Any suggestions as to what colour(s) I need to add to theHumbrol paint to get the colour I am looking for? Chris

The wheelhouse navigation light. by robbob Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 year ago
While the paint is drying on the hull there’s time to continue working on more of the white metal fittings. The body of the small navigation light on the wheelhouse roof is just big enough to set a small 3mm blue LED into so I started hollowing it out with a fine drill bit in a pin drill. The technique is to start with a small bit and by drilling one or two turns at a time and the backing the drill out to remove the swarf, this ensures that the bit does not jam in the very soft white metal, and then gradually increasing the bit size to the required diameter for the 3mm LED. The wire for the LED was taken from a miniature transformer from a defunct power supply, this tinned copper wire is very fine and is insulated with enamel. The legs of the LED were trimmed as short as possible and the wire soldered to each and insulated with some fine heat shrink, then the pair of wires were passed through some more heat shrink to form the connection cable and shrunk down. The base of the LED was also filed down slightly to reduce it’s diameter for a snug fit in the body of the fitting. After a quick test with a battery and dropper resistor the LED was epoxied into the body. Before painting the LED was ‘frosted’ with a fine abrasive and the body cleaned up ready for paint. I used some Humbrol ‘Maskol’ on the LED before spraying with some white gloss.