Hi MT, agreed the synthetics are better than they used to be, but still can't beat a good 'well run in' sable brush. 😉 Spray for the big bits, brushes for the fiddly bits! E.g. 600 scale, even for those I don't use the paint (e.g. Humbrol, Colourcoat or Revell etc) straight from the can, it's too thick and gluey for detail work 🤔 I thin it about 2 parts paint to 1 thinners. Some matt and satin maybe a bit less thinners, varies with type, colour and make. Practise, practise ... All good fun Eh!? 😎
My pleasure Ed, It's actually a New Zealand navy frigate, probably one of the German (Blohm & Voss) MEKO types built for the ANZAC program. Pic is from under the Heli Deck on the stern. First 'fairlead' pic I stumbled on in my archive, don't have too many tugs in the electronic stash😉 Let me know if you need any help with the LED circuit; dropping resistor etc. I agree with the green, so dark makes her look a bit drab and 'sinister'. A lighter shade would be more cheerful - and easier to see on the pond! Attached is a Humbrol wall chart (with some conversion tables to other makes) which might give you some inspiration 😉 How about #90, Beige Green matt? You might also look at Tamiya and Italeri acrylics. Cheers Doug 😎
Just got an email from Cornwall Model Boats. They're going to refund the price of the glue from Humbrol! Turns out the one's they had on there shelves were also dried in the bottles as well! I'm still a fan of Cornwall Model Boats....👍😊
I went to check the mailbox. Yeah, my glues arrived! Now I can continue with my build....😁😁😁 My Humbrol Poly Cement came dry as a bone! Bottle had set! Unfortunately had to get in contact. with the folks at Cornwall Model Boats! By the time I get it I won't need it!
Hi Colin, looks like Humbrol / Revell Deck Green to me. As used e.g. on RN WW2 ships in the North Atlantic. Did my HMS Hotspur with this. Cheers Doug 😎 Hi Jugge: congratulations your Amsterdam is a super job 👍👍👍 Do not apologise for your English - you do not want to hear my attempts at Swedish! 😲😡
I was very pleased to see the texts re spraying, paints etc. I am fairly new to spraying my "Surfury" and it is taking some time. I certainly agree with all the statements on preparation, for me this divides into 2 categories. 1. Boat surface preparation. 2 Paint consistency/temperature/spraying. For 1 you cannot rush it, for as noted, gloss paint certainly shows up any imperfection so you must be dedicated to spend considerable time on this. But 2. Right or wrong, after sealing and undercoating (plus the rub down) I chose to use Humbrol enamels. There followed many weeks of spraying after getting the mix right, correcting my spraying technique, inevitable rub downs etc. I came to the conclusion that many thin coats were the norm and cleaning of the spray gun (Badger) after every use was mandatory! However, the best finish achieved was by spraying in a warm surrounding temperature. This was achieved in my garage with a small calor gas fire. I believe that this latter point is the most important of all. When the painting is complete I will post a few pictures. Thanks to everyone for their excellent, informative replies. Bill.
Planking done, deck stained, some deck detail added (most detailing will follow painting and varnishing). Hull has had a good sanding with wet n dry and has had the grey primer added. Have also given the bottom of the hull a coat of red oxide primer. Following this and any blemish removal, I will get the airbrush fired up for Tamiya hull red for the bottom and then humbrol midnight blue for the upper hull sides. This will be separated with a strip of white trimline before adding rounders and lettering prior to laquer.
I ordered a tinlet of Humbrol (other paints are available) and hey ho, an Amazon (other..etc) carton the size of a developing nation arrived along with enough brown paper packing to entirely encompass my woman's glutes ! WOTTA WASTE
I attached the plastic tube that came with the original kit with long brass nails. You need to just fit them so that you dont squash the tube. I painted the tube with a darkish red Humbrol before fitting. The fore and aft bits are the bulwarks and there is also a small rail running along the edges of the deck, but set in slightly. On the real boat they carried the stanchion bearers and acted as a foot stop. They also need to have washports to allow deck water to run off. I've attached a few pics of my Solent FYI. I agree it was not a scale model but at the time we used IC engines that required easy and large access and this was one of the more realistic models available. Many like yourself have added lots of detail and the finished result will look the part and will be a credit to you. Looking forward to seeing the finished Oxford Blue hull.
YooHoo! Found a 37mm kit at right scale, and ordered😉 Now, where can I get some miniature baked-bean tins for the depth charges? 🤔 Gisela's Doll's House perhaps 😉 Hi Boaty, Ta for the info, I'll watch the temperatures! Thinks, must get a temp sensor or two for the telemetry feedback! Oh Woe where does it all end??😲 I bought my PTB from 'DadofBasil' complete with two 20something brushless. I intend to run it on a 2S LiPo 4000mAh. Humbrol paints are as rare as rocking horse droppings out here, but I found a source of the original WEM ColourCoat US26 MTB Green😊 Also have a paler version, like in the photos above, from Italeri (arrived today) so can (hopefully) achieve suitable sun-fading / weathering effects. 'Standard' anti fouling (matt brick red!) for lower hull like you! I want to build as it was when she got crunched by Amagiri, as far as possible considering all the partly conflicting versions and reports! For instance; Still trying to decide whether to leave the mast off completely or just fold it down! Cheers Doug 😎
Built an Italeri PT 109 about four years ago. Power is by a brushed 480 running on 2200 mha 7.4 Lipo. Drive is a single prop and it performs nicely at a scale speed but it can not be run flat out for too long as it will overheat and due to the excessive speed it can get slightly out of shape.. I used Humbrol Grass Green acrylic aerosol for the paint job with dull red from the waterline downwards. I built the model to its earlier spec with a life raft mounted on the bow in place of the later cannon which I believe was used for barge busting. Boaty
Hi Norm, All the weapons, boats and other 'hangers-on decks' are Humbrol colour Matt Sea Grey # 27, Revel approximate Matt Mouse Grey (Mausgrau) # 47. Don't know what paint type you use but I have several conversion charts so let me know and I'll see if I can find an equivalent. Flight deck is Matt U.S. Light (!) Green # 117, which is actually not so light, more of a Sea Grey-green. Arrester wires: On the Ark there are 8 ! According to my plan- #1 33.5m from the edge of the roll down, #2 6.6m from #1 #3 6.6m from #2 #4 7.33m from #3 #5 7.33m from #4 #6 6.95m from #5 #7 5.64 from #6 #8 5.26 from #7 No guarantee for accuracy!! Or even if 'Lusty' was the same but it's an indication. 😉 Your build is looking good 👍 I'm wondering if you are taking all this trouble why don't you go the 'whole hog' and bring her to life😉 Finish the hull and give her some motors 😊 No, I'm not in UK, I'm in Munich where I've been for the last 32 years, Tempus fugit😲, hence my forum name 😉 Cheers Doug 😎
Hello, Thank you, BUt the camera lies..! I did think i had cracked it last year, by masking up the the varnished parts after a long drying time, and then continue with the painting..A month or so later, when all was done, i tried to remove the masking tape/newspaper, but found the tape had stuck hard and was a dickens of a job to clean off, it also left residue of glue on the varnish so looked pretty terrible. Talcum powder did work, sprinkling it on the offending residue and rolling it along the deck, but not 100%.. As a footnote, i used Wilko spray enamel on this one's hull with undercoat/primer, all spray cans.. Cheaper than Halfords.. But Halfords were doing 4 spray cans for the price of 3.. The cabin was hand painted with Humbrol enamel.. Muddy