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>> Home > Tags > instructions

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instructions
Fiberglassing by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 8 days ago
Hi chugalone 100 Welcome to the site. You can fibreglass with different types of resin and cloth. If you are making and casting a fibreglass hull use fibreglass matting but to cover a hull lightweight fibreglass cloth is best. This is the type shown in the suggested video. Resin can be epoxy or polyester based but the latter is generally cheaper and in my opinion is easier to use and doesn't require thinning with alcohol. It is sold as layup resin and is supplied with hardener. Do follow the instructions re quantity of each part and mix thoroughly. If you are using epoxy Iso Propyl Alcohol is the type to use and is clear. The video shows using a brush to apply the resin and whilst this is OK it will give a very thick and heavy coating. I use the brush to apply and then a credit card sized piece of plasticard to spread the resin over and into the surface of the cloth resulting in an almost opaque finish with the weave showing through. You do need to have a good surface to work with as any imperfections will show when the resin hardens. Once dry give a light sanding all over to remove any imperfections and fill any holes with car body filler and sand smooth. I then apply a very thin top coat of the resin using a brush. When dry use wet and dry to sand and if necessary apply further thin coats until you have the finish you require. I have a local supplier and if you visit the site http://www.resin-supplies.co.u k/product.htm all the resins/cloths etc are listed. Using Google should bring up a local supplier. you do need to follow the safety instructions to protect yourself and wear appropriate protection for your hands, eyes and breathing, it is also best to apply in a well ventilated area and not on a cold day. The end result will be well worth the effort to keep your tug waterproof. You could also paint the resin over thye inside of the hull to protect the wood from any water that doeos find its way inside. Dave

Motor upgrade by colindavies Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 25 days ago
I hope so Dave. I ordered the motors and esc's from Hobbyking Tuesday PM and the arrived this morning 36 hours from order to receipt, very good. Now as this my first dabblings with brushless motors and esc's I have a few problems, which I hope somebody may be able to help me with, I bought a hobbyking esc programming card, there are no instructions with it although it seems a quite straightforward operation to set the required values. Part of this is working out what each item is 1) Running mode. Ok choice of three, forward/brake: forward/ brake/reverse: Forward reverse. (easy enough) 2) Fixed area accelerator: 6%:9%:or 12% (??🤓) 3)Battery Low Voltage Protection. 6 settings from non protection to 3.4v (probably set at no protection as using NiMh) 4)Start Mode (punch): 9 levels, which one? 5)Reverse Force: 4 levels 25-100% (ok self explanatory) 6)Timing Set: 5/10/15/20/25/30/automatic ( which one ) Bearing in mind what the model is (not a competition racer);what I require of it is forward/reverse; port and starboard. I do not require it to take off like a scalded cat with just the props and rudders in the water. Acceleration from stop to max in about 4-5 seconds. I had about a 50 year gap in model boat making until about five years ago the last one i made was when I was 15, although in the years in between I did get to play with the real things when I was in the RAF. So if you do have any advice remember you are telling a person on the wrong side of 69😋, and thanks in advance

Severn 1/12 scale by Slickdick Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 1 month ago
Hi from a desperate new modeller i need help i have bought a speedline severn 1/12 scale lifeboat there is little to no instructions with the kit if anyone out there has experience with this model i would really appreciate your help. Keith

1/12 severn by Slickdick Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 1 month ago
Hi can anyone help me i have just bought a 1/12 severn from speedline All you get for build instructions is a DVD really poor so has anyone got a set of drawings for the severn that you could sell me Keith

SENTINEL. Customs cutter. by 2283eric Petty Officer   Posted: 1 month ago
[Score: 8/10] 37"/3600g SENTINEL. Customs cutter. Capable of 6mph Twin Propellors (2 Blade X Type 35mm) Direct Drive to a MFA/ como drills (2 Blade X Type) Powered by NiCad (7.2v) Batteries Controlled Through Electronize FR15HX ESC - Comments: This is the first boat I had made using about eight sheets of plain styrene sheet.cutting all the parts,and using a vernier gauge to help me make exact parts. A full set of instructions came with the kit and I found it very easy to follow. The hull is very good.sailing on calm sunny days it sits in the water perfect, turning at speed is very realistic, in leans like motor bike.I built this some time ago and I never stop looking at it and thinking what else can I do to make this more realistic,so now it's back on the table and I'm planning to make the radars work, and after this nav/ lights, and on.

To resin cover or not my ulises steam tug by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
I would recommend you follow Mark's very sound advice. I built a Billings Mercantic (plank on frame with Cascamite) many years ago. Over time the planks split either side of the glue line. I had also followed the instructions but now cover all my wooden hulls as suggested. So much easier to do when building than several years later with all the paint removal and replacement of rotted wood. Good luck with the boat Dave

To resin cover or not my ulises steam tug by Rochdaleblue Petty Officer   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi guys sorry if this is a newbie question but is it better to cover and epoxy my plank and frame hull or can I do as the instructions say and just seal fill and paint. Is the resin coating the only way to gets it really smooth.

Web Site Funding by allenrod Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 2 months ago
All's quiet on the donation front today, we must be in the doldrums come on lets have another sudden storm and liven things up a bit, all hands on deck sorry I mean in pockets. I know times are hard after Christmas but if anyone think things are so bad do let me know, I do have a few lengths of rope with nooses already tied, name and address and I will send you one complete with instructions but always remember things are never as bad as they seem every cloud has a silver lining, please, please donate. Thanks to all who are already on board....

Building of the Ribs by figtree7nts Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
Since the instructions are very vague, It's up to the builder to know how to figure it out. I started by measuring out all the pieces that are needed to be cut, once cut I glued them together. I some how feel that when I built the lead Barge, It was easer some how! I think that when building these Barges, One should build them one after the other. OK, back to looking at the plans for now!

What Colour? by cormorant Commander   Posted: 4 months ago
I thought I had better be the first to reply to my own post before you all realised what little research I had done beforehand! I have answered my own question. Searching the Halfords website I find that they do in fact make an aerosol "Sea Grey" which on further investigation has already been used on a Perkasa. They also supply a touch up bottle for detail on the deckhouse. As an old schoolfriend continually likes to remind me - "If all else fails, read the instructions! " How I rose to the dizzy heights of Commander I will never know. Steve

Fitting the wheelhouse roof panels by robbob Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 months ago
The three panels make up the wheelhouse roof and the outer two needed the heat gun treatment to curve them in two directions so a bit of patience is required here to get this right. When they are correctly shaped the mating edges of all three need a little chamfering, they also need to overlap the cabin walls by 1/8th of an inch. I cut out a hole in the centre panel to give me access to the bracket that hold the searchlight rotation servo in place. Before fitting the roof panels I added a couple of small blocks either side of the cabin formers directly beneath where the mast feet will be to reinforce the areas so that I can bolt down the mast legs on threaded studs and also to enable it's removal for storage if required. Once again I used a file and sanding block over the formers and cabin sides to profile them so that the panels sit flush on the framework. The outer panel on which the searchlight sits was also pierced to take the 2mm threaded stud will connects the servo to the searchlight base. I'll need to make and fit a circular wedge fillet on the roof to meet the searchlight base because of the curvature of the roof at that point. The undersides of the panels got a couple of coats of sanding sealer and a brushed coat of a black satin water based paint, being careful not to coat the areas where the glue lines will be. The rest of the interior of the cabin also got another coat of black paint. The centre panel was fitted first making sure that the hole was correctly aligned with the servo shaft position, when the glue had dried the two outer panels were glued and clamped. I fitted the sliding hatch rails on a couple of bearers and made a frame around the access hole for the hatch to fit onto. The other small hole at the front of the centre panel is for the navigation light wiring. Thankfully that's the end of the superstructure construction which was unnecessarily difficult due to the less than helpful instructions and drawings and poorly fitting parts. Some room for improvement here by the kit maker I think ❓ ..... Next episode coming to screen near you soon.... 😁

Fitting the windscreen panels. by robbob Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 months ago
I initially followed the instructions and used canopy glue to fix the centre Perspex screen in place but the practical reality is that the glazing is better fitted to the panels after construction and painting. Fortunately the canopy glue can easily be removed from the Perspex without leaving a residue, so no harm done. The three panels were chamfered at the meeting edges and dry fitted/removed a number of times after various shaping adjustments until I was perfectly happy with the fit. My earlier 'geometric juggling' of the cabin parts has paid off because all of the windscreen panels now lay flat properly across the formers and at all the correct angles. Once satisfied that the fit was as good as it gets I glued and clamped each piece one at a time, and after a bit of filling and rubbing down the end result was worth all the effort 😀

The wheelhouse, pain tempered by an inspired suggestion! by robbob Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 months ago
The wheelhouse construction on first sight seems to be reasonably straightforward but in practice it was a real PITA as the instructions are somewhat lacking in detail and the drawing supplied isn't of much help either so I largely disregarded them and placed the cabin and windscreen formers so that the geometry was correct. This involved putting in extra supporting pieces and bevelling the formers so that the windscreen panels and roof skins would fit properly when I was ready to fit them. Also, the instructions say to fit the glazing to the windscreen panels and fix them in place during this phase of the construction, something that I considered very impractical and unwise so I decided to find a better way to do this at a later stage 💭 Whilst working on this it was suggested to me by a family member that perhaps the searchlight could be engineered to be a working feature? I had always intended to build a high power LED into the searchlight controlled by a R/C switch, but could it be possible to make it rotate as well? I decided to take time out to research a practical means to do this as it would be quite a nice feature and also a good excuse to upgrade my choice of R/C system from 4 channel to 6 channel for not much more outlay 😀

Hello and some initial questions by robc_wa Apprentice   Posted: 4 months ago
Hello. I have recently joined the forum since I cane across it when trying to find out some info about the AerokitsKielCraft RAF Crash Tender model. Something just less than 50 years ago I started building the 34.5 inch model, and never finished it. I even had an electric motor ready, a beautiful thing with an open frame, all red enamel and shiny metal, don't know what happened to it. Any way on a trip back to the UK to vist my parents ( who still live in the house they did then ) I removed the hull from the top of a cupboard in Dad's, fortunately very large, garage. Boxed it up and brought it back to Australia with me. I hope that now I am retired I may be able to finish it. I probably have rather better financial resources that I did then and will be able to afford radio control now. My main hobby is SM32 garden railways and I am amazed at how much easier RC is now than it was in the 60's. I seem to recall you needed a licence back then. I may not be able to started on it right a way since I am supposed to be getting the house ready to put on the market, but I thought I would start asking a few questions, if you good people don't mind Firstly, there seems to be no mention of marine Internal combustion engines on the forum. Is that deliberate or are they just out of fashion. I believe the Crash Tender was specified for up to 3.5 cc (I could not afford that hence the electric motor) Secondly, I seem to have built some parts out of balsa (one side of the foredeck and a few other bits). I must replace those with ply. Do we just use standard birch ply like the aero modellers and (large scale railway modellers !) or is there a special marine version. Thirdly, How can I get hold of a set of plans and instructions? I saw some on Ebay a few weeks ago but didn't buy them since I presumed this was someone who was printing on demand and they would always be available. I have since discovered differently. I think that is enough for now. Thanks in advance. I attach a photo of the vessel in her current state. Regards Rob

Wood Ship Kit Modeling Tips and Tricks by andrewanten Seaman   Posted: 4 months ago
Before you start modeling a ship, ensure your kit has all the parts such as mold lines, pin holes, warpage, flash and swirl marks, etc. If there are several parts, which are missing, then contact with your manufacturer to provide you with the required parts so that you can accomplish your job. With every wood ship kit you buy, you will get a detailed set of diagrams, as well as instructions, which will help you complete the job successfully. At Ages of Sail, we carry a full line of Scale Wooden Ship Model Kits, Fittings, Books, Tools, and Supplies. We have Card Model kits from Shipyard of Poland, Denix Metal Cannons, Domus Architectural Kits, Medieval Cannons and Weapons, Miniature Figures from Amati, and much, much more. http://www.agesofsail.com/