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>> Home > Tags > instructions

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Spektrum, new, useless... by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 days ago
Hi peter, well there's maybe hope for my Tx. yet, although my instructions mention flashing lights on the Tx. which will stop flashing when binding is done, but what I can't claim is that the orange flashing lights in the Rxs ever stop rapid flashing, so binding doesn't occur. My Orange Rx. has an orange flashing light...yours is red? Not working with the borrowed Spektrum Rx. is something that makes me think it's still the Tx. that's duff, but when the next £7 Rx, arrives, I'll try that! Cheers, Martin

Southampton Tug Boat by Weedman Seaman   Posted: 2 days ago
Can anyone help especially with step by step instructions. Better still, by sending me a video something similar to that which has been seen on YouTube. There is one about upgrading but that showed the deck already removed. I need help with dismantling the Hobby Engine Southampton Tug Boat which I purchased today. I want first to remove the deck without damaging any part, naturally. I know the removal of screws is necessary all around the deck but for some reason this dose not release the deck unless, it is secured with glue or am I missing something? Then, I can remove all RC equipment replacing it with my own. Lastly, I want to upgrade the battery from the standard 6 cell AA 800mAh 7.2v to a 1800mAh 7.4v or even a 3000mAh Lipo which will probably have to be relocated. All help, advice or suggestions would be appreciated. Keep it clean. Thank you.

LED Tug Mast Navigation Lights by pittsfieldpete Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 4 days ago
Thanks, Doug. I’m pretty clear on how to proceed; thanks very much for your detailed instructions. Will you please clarify two things? As I “switch on each existing light in turn” to measure voltages as you describe, should I turn each light off before moving on to the next one or should I leave them turned on until all of the measurements are finished? Also, does “socket” refer to the locations on the board where the wires & components were originally inserted through holes & then soldered in place? I’ll check out the Radio Shack website you mentioned later this evening. I didn’t realize RS still existed as an Internet retailer. Almost all of the RS stores here in the states closed in 2017. There was a Radio Shack store less than a half mile from my home that closed last year. Oh, well.

Spektrum, new, useless... by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 5 days ago
Doug, if you have an Orange Rx. like mine, the bit where the plugs go is on the end face, so when you tip the battery wire on its side to plug in, the red wire is indeed uppermost, the black wire, bottommost. The Spektrum Rx. has the plug bit in the top face, so the uppermost, red lead goes through a right angle and goes downwards, but yes, in the middle. I made sure of the polarity first, but that bit you mentioned meant nothing to me, just symbols. I didn't want to trust them if I didn't understand them. The bind plug did indeed go in the slot marked bind. On the Orange Rx. it says BIND/BATT. I didn't plug any servos in as it isn't necessary and I didn't have them to hand without fishing them out of the restricted space in my Vanity model. I have now watched so many you-tubes and read so many instructions that I can assure you I got the order right. Bind plug has never been out of the Orange Rx, except to assure myself of good contact. Battery pack plugged into AUX> socket, flashing yellow light, Tx. tother side of workshop, pull on trainer switch and turn on power. Beedlyboop noise, light on right hand side of array, but NO flashing on Tx. Hold trainer switch till will to live starts to ebb, give up. The Spektrum you show, Doug is the same, albeit with different aerials, but the guy assures me it bound to his DX5e before he sent it to me for the trial. Your Orange however is very different from mine. Mine, as I said, has the pins poking out the end and the writing where your pins are. Yes, it has an S in the case, which I read meant signal, not that I knew what that was. It is a much smaller box than yours. Now you can see why I spoke of uppermost as my battery cable has to go on its side to plug into my Orange and in that position the red wire is indeed, uppermost. If you see the normal position for the Rx. to be flat on it's back with the pretty stuff on top. So, what else can it be? I will try what you suggested about the metal free garden, tomorrow and after that we will have to wait till the Fly Sky arrives, estimated E.T.A., early next month. Your PTB looks very bare. Had you always intended to strip the tubes and rudders too? Now, you have to paint the insides a nice neutral colour, like Spitfire Cockpit green, which is also Jaguar cockpit green, but Maseratis were silvery grey. Don't ask how I know...long story Cheers, Martin

Spektrum, new, useless... by Rookysailor Lieutenant   Posted: 5 days ago
Agree with you Doug, I have a DX4 for my drone, a DX 5e, DX6i and the latest DX6, which talks to you to tell you when you have bound the tx and rx, they all have the same plug system with a bind socket, even the orange receivers bind without a problem. Martin, just follow Doug's instructions for binding your DX5e, I am sure you will have success👍 Good binding...😊 Peter

Charging NiMhs, one for Doug?... by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 9 days ago
I tried the plug, but it is pushed in. The Tx. has lights on the front. Are they supposed to tell you the charge level? If so. I had 4 cells in it which lit up the light second from left (green) and then tried a more recently charged set I just found and they lit up the second from right, (also green). People have said that the TX. light should flash, but which one? There are 4 of the things. And none of them flash. Somebody suggested fixing the TX. in DSM2 mode, but the instructions insist that it is compatible with all, but one of Spektrum's own! I can see me flogging it all off for once and all and going back to free sailing. When the boat slows down, it's time to recharge and sod the RC! Martin

Build manual/ instructions by kmbcsecretary Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 9 days ago
Thanks commodore for the info Ron

Charging NiMhs, one for Doug?... by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 9 days ago
OK, well, this is exactly what I expectedto happen. First time out of the box for the Spektrum TX and first time for any power into the Orange Rx. Youtubes watched, instructions read, did everything they said and nothing. The Rx. light flashed, non stop, the Tx lights came on and it biddly booped. I had the trainer toggle switch held on while the Tx was turned on, but still, the Rx. flashed and did nothing more. Any ideas what now? You see, this is why I like static models so much. None of this faffing about with lecktrickery. Cheers, Martin

Build manual/ instructions by commodore Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 9 days ago
Ron, you can get all thevents information you'll need from the Association of Model Barge Owners website. Incidentally, for a sailing model, the best scale is 1/24th i.e. 1/2 Inch to one foot which gives a hull length of about 42 inches.

Charging NiMhs, one for Doug?... by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 9 days ago
Well, you could, Haverlock, if you understood a word of the instructions. But if they're reading 6.37Volts I reckon they're charged, so I shall try to use them to bind the Rx. and see if the Vanity sheet winch works. Ron, I reckon they're charged at 6.37Volts. I'll just check that the Rx. is good for that higher voltage and then tomorrow see if I can get my head this binding business. Martin

Fittings & Detail Parts by pittsfieldpete Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 9 days ago
Thanks, Doug I’ll defer to an expert & ask you. How often would you recommend lubing the prop shaft(s) in a typical R/C boat? As far as the type of oil, about 50 years ago when I built a veritable fleet of Lindberg’s motorized boat & ship kits I think the instructions mentioned “3-in-1” or “sewing machine” oil. I’m not experienced enough with larger-scale R/C boats to be sure, but is a general purpose light oil OK or should it be something that’s higher quality, such as Labelle’s products? I’ve used Labelle’s products on my N scale locomotives & they make a tremendous difference. I’m probably overthinking it but better safe than sorry. Thanks.

Build manual/ instructions by kmbcsecretary Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 10 days ago
thanks martin

Build manual/ instructions by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 10 days ago
Ah, OK, Ron. In that case I'm afraid I can't help you, but I wish you luck. The rigging should be fairly standard. I have Ewart Freeston's book on making static models of them I could check things in that if you need. Cheers, Martin

Build manual/ instructions by kmbcsecretary Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 10 days ago
It needs a complete refit Martin , fittings are missing the rigging is in a right mess with broken mast ect. I'm not a big fan of these boats but doing it as a favour for a club member. I have found plans online for a Thames barge which at a push I could possibly use.

Build manual/ instructions by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 10 days ago
Does it need so much that we couldn't talk our way through it for you? I don't know a huge amount about sailing barges, but I know the basics and I have books about them as I am supposed to be making a 1/43rd scale model as a pattern for a kit for a model railway company's scenic accessories line. Martin