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>> Home > Tags > instructions

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instructions
Skinning the hull (sides) by mturpin013 Lieutenant   Posted: 8 hours ago
The boat has to be placed upside down so first thing to do is to modify the base board so the hull is firm to be able to do any final trimming. Before the skins are fitted the bow areas have to be sealed being careful not to seal the parts which are to be glued The instructions say that the lower skins are fitted first and as they are 6mm oversize this allows for trimming to achieve a good fit. After some time I got a fit I was happy with from the stern to the start of the bow curve so at this point I pinned the skin at the B2,3,4,5 leaving enough material to trim to the bow curve prior to bending . The bending was done simply by soaking in hot water for 5 - 7 mins and then forming around a suitable paint tin and left overnight to dry. Before fitting I decided to trim the skin at the front bow area where it has a butt joint with the side skins, easier than trying to cut it out after it had been glued. Point to note was that while the bending was being carried out, I also bent he side skins as well. Having pre drilled all the holes for the pins and ensured the fit is as good as I can get I can now epoxy the first skin on.

Bondo the keel! by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 21 hours ago
Mornin' Ed, Not surprised that this is your last Dumas kit🤔 I recently bought the Deans Marine kit of HMS Manxman, a WW2 fast cruiser / minelayer, 1:96 53". It has a superb fibreglass hull that I can't fault and hundreds of cast resin, brass and white metal bits n pieces 😲 On the other hand the drawing supplied is a bit limited, but no sweat as I have several detail photos of the original anyway😉 Rather that way round than like Dumas! Attached are a few pics from the build instructions (there are hundreds on a CD). Good luck with the rest of your build👍 😎

HMS HOOD by Trumpeter by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 days ago
Hi Steve, I was afraid of that with the 160 quid set, but I can't say for sure as I only have the 1/350 version so I don't know yours in detail. Ask Model Dockyard for an idea of delivery time and if they can order it. Will take you a while to get to that stage anyway 😉 You can check out the Eduard sets here- https://www.eduard.com/store/Eduard/?stoken=429DC2EE&force_s... Site is safe; I checked it out at McAffee Labs / Web Advisor😉 I have also often ordered stuff from Czech shops, deck gun kit and crew for my U25 for instance, never had problems.👍 Attached are the instructions for the RN figures. They are relatively big, compared to the 1/600 and 1/350 that I use! So I reckon if you carefully rub the insides against a rubber cutting pad with something like the end of a small paintbrush handle you should be able to give them some 3D form. Have fun, and don't forget to hoover the floor BEFORE you start!!!! 🤔 At least one of my 1/600 quad Vickers machine gun mounts + parts have vanished into the workshop nirvana after a few hours fiddling 😡 Cheers Doug 😎

It’s been a long day! by Bobatsea Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 5 days ago
A tip... My instructions had the planking stop at the stern hull transom boards. I planked the hull over the boards to make a nicer finish.

3D sanding discs. by figtree7nts Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 6 days ago
Hi Doug! When I purchased the then Robbe Neptune. I sure could have used you. Some 30-35 yrs ago! to translate the instructions they came in German! It took a bit of doing. translating but, I built the model!

happy hunter by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 9 days ago
The link to the Krick pdf drawing gives all the templates for the superstructure. Should be an easy job to put into a CAD program and produce full size templates. Very good set of instructions, should help even the novice builder.

Thurl pin rack by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 15 days ago
Sure is Alan! Since old English thirl or thurl apparently simply meant a 'hole' just make a Belaying Pin rack (a board with a row of holes😉) and be done with it! Don't the instructions or packing list mention the rack? Just looked at the kit, nice boat 👍 sure you'll have lots of fun with it. Cheers Doug 😎

Happy Hunter by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 16 days ago
Hi Little Charlie, if you go here to the Krick Download page in English http://www.krickshop.de/Products/News-2018/New-Items-2016/Ha... and click on 'Documents' you can download a 98 page multi-language pdf of the building instructions. English follows the German version. 😉 On the same page you can also download build photos and a list of accessories. Happy Rebuild, cheers Doug 😎

Happy Hunter by Little-Charlie Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 16 days ago
I have just purchased on ebay a rather distraught Happy Hunter tug and I was Wondering if any body out there had a copy of the building instructions either for sale or loan

Bargain Tomkat by bilzin Lieutenant   Posted: 17 days ago
Somebody was either disillusioned with model boats or impecunious to the Nth degree because he let me have this BRAND NEW Ripmax Tomkat complete with Motor, ESC, brand new steering servo,action man driver,decals and instructions for a brownie with a bluey postage. Not my usual type of model but will make a fun change down at our 'postage stamp' lake (?)

upgrading Turnigy i6 to 10 channels by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 17 days ago
Hi Chris One of my fellow modellers was at the lake today with a Turnigy type clone. Not touch screen so had the push buttons to set up. He was having problems setting the end point and servo reverse. Seemed to change correctly and pressing OK then cancel returned to the main screen. The setting however had not changed. Tried a couple of times with same result. Third time I pressed and held onto the cancel button and the screen went blank then reappeared as the main screen. Bingo the changes had taken. It would appear you need to press and hold the cancel button for a second or two to allow the internal chip to be programmed. Doug has read the instructions which do not mention holding the button. Your software update has worked as the display shows all ten channels. I do believe the final stage where you allocate the controls may need you to hold the cancel button to retain the settings. Worth a try. Please let us know if it works

New build by Gascoigne Commander   Posted: 19 days ago
A working board 24” x 16” in 1” medium density fibre would be about right for you Billings static model of a Thames barge, although a large tray would help in containing everything between building sessions. Some suggested tools in the photo including wood glues and sandpaper (rough and smooth). Always worth reading and understanding the kit instructions, and keeping to the building sequence given. Billings have a reputation for producing quality well equipped kits. I know you will derive much satisfaction from making your first model and I wish you well. Enjoy. Never be shy in asking advice.

LiPo Battery Monitor by saga32 Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 20 days ago
Hi Andy, I use a little combined Voltage and Alarm like this from HobbyKing https://hobbyking.com/en_us/hobbykingtm-lipo-voltage-checker... Or you will find them on eBay from China if you don't mind waiting There is usually information and instructions on the back and the alarm is usually set for 3.3v per cell when it arrives. A useful reminder when sailing, I would rely on my ESC settings when using a brushless setup. Wes.

LiPo Battery Monitor by AndyG009 Lieutenant   Posted: 22 days ago
Has anyone had experience with the Lipo Battery Monitors which can monitor 1 to 8 cells, and have a LED (7 segment) read out. If you have do you have any instructions on how to set them up ?

Cabin sides and deck supports by mturpin013 Lieutenant   Posted: 24 days ago
Before we continue I must mention some fine detail that should have been mentioned in the previous build update and that is the preparation of the cabin sides. Because the bow end of the cabin sides narrow there is a need to score/cut through partially in the places indicated in the build instructions, this is around the cabin side window and enables the side to bend without cracking the external faces, and this also applies to the rear of the cabin sides where it joins B5. The cabin side extensions can also be glued into position as well To continue, having secured all the bulkheads to the keel I can now epoxy the cabin sides to the bulkheads ensuring that the height is maintained side to side and bends smoothly round to the bow and stern. Allowing this to set for a couple of hours I can fit the deck stringers from ¼ x ⅛. These are cut to length to suite the gaps between the bulkheads and glued in place using aliphatic resin glue. I also added some extra support where the cabin side extensions are since its only a butt joint.