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hi ya Colin - I had a good look round the web to try and find the instructions manual for your Futaba FP-T7 UPH and it keeps coming up with the links that I have already posted but there are also one or two links which the firewall wont allow me to open - it says its got virus' on - so I wonder what that one is. I did come across an auction site - not Ebay - that had one for sale with the instructions and if you look at the instructions they are similar/same as the link I have already posted. So, I am wondering are these instructions for the two sets of transmitters - and possibly the one you have is an upgrade. I see on Ebay there is someone in USA who sells manuals on CD for around £8 if you desperate. Of all the transmitter manuals I have looked for this one is an oddball one for finding the manual. Happy days. John
I must admit that the painting process is not my favourite. It takes so long and time is always at a premium due to work commitments. I rush it a bit so that the build can continue. I fitted all of the windows into the deck structure and covered them with the low tack film. I then primed, two coats, painted, two coats followed by two coats of lacquer. I am quite pleased with the results even though it is not perfect. I decided not to fit the deck until all of the electronics, including the ESC, battery and receiver had been installed. This is because one of the big problems with this model is the lack of room to work in once the deck is in place. Another problem I encountered was the fitting of the tiller cranks onto the rudders. If the instructions are followed, it is almost impossible the adjust or remove them once the deck has been fitted. I solved the problem by reversing the cranks and bending the connecting wire to miss a bulkhead support. The screws can now be reached from the deck opening. I have now completed the majority of the painting and have started to assemble the remaining parts. Currently I am doing the wiring of the lighting and making a couple of circuit boards. There are a lot of wires involved so to reduce the amount I have decided to us e a common negative. (Cannot remember what this is called right now). There are still a lot of wires and they are mostly coming out from the cabin structure. I have decided to introduce some nine pin connectors to make cabin removal a lot easier. This is quite a big job and will take a little while. I really enjoy this bit. The results add that little bit of extra satisfaction when it all works as it should.🤓 The top search light assembly came as a bit of a surprise. It is manufactured from nickel silver plate and requires soldering together. Even though I am a precision engineer, I have not soldered a box since I was at school. Once I stopped burning my fingers with the heat, I quite enjoyed the assembly even though it would have been useful to have an extra hand and took the best part of today to complete.😤 I can honestly say that I have enjoyed most of this build and even though earlier on I was thinking to avoid Aero-naut models in the future, I have changed my mind. They are very cleverly designed. I expect to complete this model some time in March. That would be the first for me to complete in recent times even though I have two others on the go and one new one in its box ready for a Summer start.😊
[Score: 10/10] 42"/1200g Lady Marian Capable of 15mph and a runtime of 60mins Single Propellor (4 Blade 55mm) Geared to a OS. 6.5cc Marine 4 stroke. (4 Blade) Controlled Through servo controlled ESC - Comments: This Drifter was a Marvon Models Kit and was incredible value for the money, a double planked plank on frame hull, and detailed instructions and good quality timber and fittings. As the engine was a four-stroke and silenced, plus the fact it was ticking over at very few revs, it made less noise than your average electric motor. Plus we were not trying too hard to save the planet in those good old days.
Have decided to remove the vintage rc gear from my recent acquisition and put in 2.4ghz system, I am hoping to be able to control the 2 motors via 2 ESC's and Mtronics w-tail mixer, (which I already have) but I have don't have any instructions or diagrams for fitting it. Can anyone help me please. BTW it will be a 6 volt system. Thanks in advance Colin.
".....Thanks for all your comments and input. What i really need now is a copy of the templates sheet so that i can cut some new parts to replace some of the missing ones ....." There was never a 'templates sheet', of course. There were just the original kit parts. This is a fundamental problem with trying to 'save' old model boat plans. The aircraft plans usually have all parts described precisely. Many - possibly most - boat kits are essentially sets of parts with assembly instructions. So, if you need to reproduce an old kit, you need to include part templates as well. Which means a lot of work for someone. Not only do you have to obtain an example of the original kit, measure it up and draw it using a CAD package, but you also have to allow for the fact that wood changes, and that die-cut parts may be cut badly, and so what you have measured may need correcting - sometimes quite extensively. Here's a classic example - the old Yeoman MINX, with templates drawn up...
hi can anyone help me out there i am building johnny tug boat, the instruction that came with it was in german, i managed to d/load english version, ony problem is the instructions are shocking there is no measurments or dimensions, i have parts i dont know where they go, if anyone can help me id appreciate it, ive even tried to contact aeronaut to no avail, cheers colin👍
Just recently put together one of the newer Joysway DF 95,s What a pleasure. The instructions are very clear and concise, Obviously written by somebody that knows English. This boat fits into the RG 95 class. Comes complete with 1 sail set made of Mylar. Other sails can be manufactured suggest Sochs Sails
Have a look at the Banggood website. They are selling A3 sized laser cutters for less than £200. It is sold as an engraver with a 2500 mW laser but this can be upgraded. It should cut ply up to 3mm albeit with multiple passes It comes as a kit with "Chinese" English instructions so you will need your modelling skills to assemble it. They are fairly flimsy as a stand-alone, but, if fixed to a stout MDF board, it should be sturdy enough
It looks like an Aeronaut Classic, I am half way through building one and am not happy with it as I have built it as per instructions and the bottom skins are a good eight of an in too short. It seems tome that a lot of the parts like the side stringers are way too thin. I saw a picture of one that was being built that some one was doing a couple of years back and now the parts have been dramatically skimped now. I am very dissapointed with the model generally.
Hi Garth & Brianaro, l too have been building Billings kits, although l do find some of there instructions a bit hit and miss, but l think any kit has its challenge. My first Billing kit was the Norden fishing boat, my second kit was the Boulogne-Etaples, now l am currently building the St Canute tug, but l took a rest during the run up and over Xmas, to be honest l am struggling with the hull planking, so l will knuckle down very soon. I have also built the Aero-naut Diva which was a fine kit to make. Your chat reminded me of my early school days (late 50’s) when l used to spend my paper round money of the “Keilcraft boat kits” (May have got the kit name wrong), the boat l recall was called the Mermaid, does anyone out there remember these early kits? Anyway chaps l’ve attached photos of my current finished kits, l always like to see other completed kits! Happy new year and good modelling for 2019 Richard
Can anyone confirm the correct colour for the hull of The Thames Police Boat above the waterline? I have seen various shades of blue on other models, some very light which doesn't look at all right, and some in black. The instructions state it should be a dark blue and I'd like to order a custom mixed RAL colour quite soon and I'm looking at RAL 5011 Steel Blue or possibly RAL 5004 Black Blue. Any advice appreciated. Robbob.
Bit more info. The donor has come back with some basic instructions for the ESC but I already have more than that from my searches. He also lent me a program 'Card' which is very easy to use and seems to confirm that I have a very basic ESC. The card has 12 levels of settings on the instructions but the ESC only recognises 4 items and then within each item does not have all the setting levels. Have set it best I can for now but will go find me a better ESC later. Steve
Bom dia Wingcoax, If I want something pronto I go online to Conrad or Krick here in Germany and usually get the 'stuff' in one or two days. If I order from Turnigy/Hobbyking I make sure the stuff comes from the EU warehouse. Then it's usually here within the week. Most of the stuff has reasonably understandable instructions, or I can find it on the web. Learned that the hard way with a delivery from China that took several weeks and and then cost me a small fortune in German customs duty 😡 Model shops around Munich are basically model railway, aircraft or toys🤔 Such is life today! Cheers, Doug 😎
I would much prefer to purchase the items I want in a local shop, be able to gain some expert advice and look before I buy, sadly the nearest shop only has a very limited stock and the owner admits he knows little about model boats, railways being his thing. To find a specialist shop entails a round trip of 126 miles which makes buying on line far more attractive, but this has frequently meant that when the item has arrived (often after weeks of delay as it has come direct from China) it is the wrong size, not as described or there are no understandable instructions. Not sure what the answer is, perhaps moving near to a big city would help.