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>> Home > Tags > instructions

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The window glazing & frames. by robbob Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 day ago
A full set of laser cut perspex windows is supplied in the VMW kit along with corresponding frames for all and they are all a pretty good fit in the window apertures of the engine room, forward cabin and wheel house rear walls, only requiring a light easing with a file for a secure fit. I left the protective film on the screens whilst gluing them in place with a very small amount of canopy glue applied to the window edges with a dressmaking pin and pressed into place so that they were flush with the outside of the cabin walls. The wheelhouse windows were a bit trickier as they are glued to the inside face of the panels and I had to remove the protective film around the edges of the outer face of the windows by running a fine sharp blade around the window aperture with the perspex held in place by hand. Canopy glue was then used very sparingly on the face of the perspex and the windows clamped in place. The central screen of the wheelhouse has the Kent Clearview in it and this needed to be carefully centred before fixing in place. When all had dried and set the protective films was peeled off to reveal nice clear ‘panes’ without any unsightly glue smudges. The CNC cut window frames are made from a flexible plastic material with accurate and well defined edges. They were all given a light sanding with abrasive paper as a key for the paint and were then laid out on a large piece of card paying particular attention to getting them the correct side up, in particular the wheelhouse frames which are ‘handed’ for either port or starboard. They were all held to the board with small pads of double sided foam tape and sprayed with two coats of Halfords metallic silver paint followed by two light coats of Halfords gloss lacquer. After a couple of days to dry they were removed from the board and fixed in place with canopy glue applied with a pin as very small dots around the inside face, aligned with masking tape ‘guides’ and a straight edge and then held in place with small tabs of masking tape. The installation of the glazing in the wheelhouse was made a lot easier because I had previously cut away some of the bulkhead and rear wall to give better access to the wheelhouse interior for detailing. This is not mentioned in the building instructions but is well worth doing for all the above reasons 😁

1/12scale SPEEDLINE Trent lifeboat kit by Rocky Apprentice   Posted: 4 days ago
Hello, Firstly is the lifeboat kit still for sale? If so, does it come with instructions as well as plans for each stage of the build? Finally, my budget would be around the £475 mark, would this be considered as a reasonable offer, obviously if not I fully understand. Thank you.

Fiberglassing by Trillium Commander   Posted: 6 days ago
I have been puzzled by conflicting statements on the web, some stating that adding resin and fibreglass will strengthen wooden construction, and others stating that it will not. For my own understanding I did some tests, which others may find interesting. These are not by any means scientific, and meant only as a guide for me in model construction. The results show that coating balsa with resin and fibreglass cloth does strengthen it. For those who want to see more detail, these are the results. Three separate strips of balsa, each 18" long by 1.5" wide were cut from a single sheet 36" long by 3" wide, 3/32" (2.4mm) thick. Each strip was placed on top of two supports 10" apart. A load was applied in increments to the centre of the span. After testing each strip in its uncoated condition, each one was coated with Deluxe Materials Eze-Kote resin, according to the maker's instructions, and a layer of fibreglass cloth applied on each side. The cloth was a piece I had spare so I don't know what weight it was, but I estimate between 1 and 1.5 oz per sq yd. After coating each strip was tested again. The results are shown in the chart. The lower the deflection when loaded, the stronger the strip. Although all strips were cut from one sheet, strip 3 was clearly stiffer and stronger than the other two in its uncoated state. It benefited least from the addition of the fibreglass. Strips 1 and 2 showed a significant increase in strength.

Free plans Inc Tamar lifeboat plans by sonar Admiral   Posted: 9 days ago
http://eezebilt.tk/Tamar.html The Tamar lifeboat plans With Build instructions

Wiring in a rx, an ESC and a battery (pack) by Haverlock Admiral   Posted: 13 days ago
first take a deep breath and calm down its not rocket science. Question does your ESC have a battery eliminator ? if so take away the dry batteries to use in something else. Now your nicads connect to the POWER side of the esc. make sure you have the correct polarity. The servo plug from the ESC plugs into your receiver whichever is your throttle channel. If you have a modern set then you can put it on the wrong way round with no worries since positive is the centre post. The output of the ESC connect to your motor. If its a brushed motor no need to worry about polarity for now. With your ESC there should be some setup instructions if there are none ...... Usually its connect and switch on receiver then switch transmitter on with throttle full listen for beeps then go to low throttle. Switch receiver off. When you switch on in future make sure transmitter is switched on FIRST ok having gotten this far it only remains to check the direction of rotation of the motor. Take off the prop ( saves fingers) and put a piece of masking tale around end of prop shaft. Switch on transmitter switch on receiver and try the throttle. If the motor spins in correct direction fine if not Brushed motor swap the motor leads over Brushless motor swap any 2 of the 3 motor leads over. Job done have a cuppa then decide to sort out the rudder.

Couplings by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 14 days ago
So Boatshed, don't give up! The solution Dave mentions is very elegant nd simple 👍 Go to this page http://taycol.tk/Rectifier.html as Dave suggests, and follow the instructions for 'using single diodes'. Or the bridge version if you can't get the diodes easily. circuits attached as on above mentioned page. Cheers Doug 😎

Couplings by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 14 days ago
Hmm! Pondering this some more you CAN NOT use the rectifier trick to connect to an ESC without modifying the motor wiring! In the standard 'out of the box' state the field coils and brushes / armature are all in series, with the armature in the middle of the split field coil, as on my Target. Hence only two connections for the battery. To connect the ESC via the bridge you have to separate the field coils from the armature. Otherwise you can't reverse the motor. Hence the motor wiring is changed to link the two field coils in series and isolate them from the brushes. See step 3 in the instructions. Forget the reverse coil, just disconnect it and insulate the end. Now you have four connection points: two for the field coil and two for the brushes. Sooooooo as before; + and - from the bridge to either field or brushes, the two ~ pins from the bridge vice versa! which way round you do it is free choice. Cheers Doug 😎

3 Footer on a very rare outing by pmdevlin Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 15 days ago
"pmdevlin, it's difficult to build heavy if you follow the instructions" Yes it is, its also difficult when you didnt actually build the boat, it was originally built (as prev stated) circa 1962 by my uncle, with IC engine, and a straight running rudder, as he couldnt afford full rc gear back then. Im thinking Martin you have watched the video, and saw that the boats did plane, be it 30 knots or 300 knots, they planed, scale speed or not. I also own a four footer which handles beautifully, and is capable of well over scale speed, but speed is only relative to the position of the throttle stick, we all build to our own required specifications, and our own take on the original, with some modellers license😊 I would rather have power in reserve, than not enough power. The problem with my smaller 3 footer is at the time my lack of experience, resulting in a heavy boat, Now I own some fast scale boats, I dont need the performance from the 3 footer, so it can be rebuilt using a lighter motor, lighter power packs, and get rid of some of the unecessary weight to make it sit better in the water, and look better at slower speeds work in progress, as it hardly gets used, its not high on my to do list😡 thanks for the weight Dave, I remember that your 3 footer performs very nice, and is light. Ill weigh mine this week, its buried deep in the man shed, thanks also rob, but its the smaller 3 foot weight I was after👍 Paul

3 Footer on a very rare outing by Westquay Captain   Posted: 16 days ago
PT boats maybe, but Crash Tenders were not as fast. 30 knots isn't that quick and if they went everywhere on the plane they probably wouldn't have the fuel to get home! 2 Meteorite V8s are a very different matter to three Packards! pmdevlin, it's difficult to build heavy if you follow the instructions. Mine is built to Aerokits instructions , has a Taycol Supermarine and used a lantern battery (which Dad used to get for nothing) and it would do a nice scale speed on its marks. Martin

The Taycol Target Renovation by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 20 days ago
Hi Doug Glad to hear the laminations were ok. They should be in close uninsulated contact and are usually packed tight when constructed. Old motors are renovated by dismantling then cleaning as you have done. Shellac can and does crack over time but can be restored by soaking in new solution then baking in an oven. Sorry was winding you up a bit on this, I'm sure the trusty Taycol will be ok for a good few years and you can check for any shorts to the laminations with a meter. Phossy bronze as per the original would be my choice. We have some good local suppliers so I can usually source without resorting to cannibalism!! It is a longtime lalglo but I seem to recali the instructions n running in suggested low power for some time with plenty of oil. That and the ozone will bring back fond memories. Dave

Tamco Tx/Rx by NickW Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 21 days ago
Dave/Doug.....the motors in the photo are the same, it's just that the one on the left is supplied mounted hence the diff part no....my problem is which connector goes where, I followed the Tamco instructions and blew a couple of things.....

Oil Sump for Gearbox? by Pav403 Commander   Posted: 23 days ago
Evening Dave, I've attached three images, no instructions on oiling were in the instructions, I could ask the supplier (Maritime Models) he's been very helpful and quick to respond to other questions I've had. Looking at the box again I could create something that would hold (and hopefully) contain a small amount of Gear box oil. Best regards Dave

Oil Sump for Gearbox? by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 23 days ago
Hi dave did the unit come with any instructions re lubrication? Can you post a pic? My home made gear boxes all ran with a light oiling on each sail. Dave

HMS Diamond D35 - Railings jig plans and Instructions by davecox3 Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 23 days ago
Can you please PM the details I served on this ship in the late sixties and would love to built it davecox3@icloud.com thanks a lot

And now it is ESC time by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 23 days ago
Niet! 😉 I gave 'em a drink of light machine oil as per instructions 👍 Dasvidanya tavarich 😎