I have just bought the Palaform Griffon 600 which arrived last week. I am considering 2 things: 1. Either copy all the depron parts onto 2mm light/medium balsa adding lightning holes to reduce the extra weight. This would make a far stronger model for not too much added weight. The instructions call for adding extra batteries to increase weight if using outdoors anyway. 2. second option would be to replace some parts with balsa, then glass cloth top deck depron, bottom of hull depron and either replace cabin sides/roof with a sandwich of 1mm balsa/1mm ply or glass cloth depron. In both options, the prop tunnel will be built as per kit. Any thoughts or advice would be appreciated.
Full kit, US Hospital ship 1944, St. Olaf 1/9 scale , length 54ins width 71/2ins . This kit includes full plans and brass deck fittings, full instructions and cd on how to build the kit. This is a beautiful kit with loads of details. It also includes full history about the real ship. I bought this over a year ago but just haven’t the time to build it , the kit is all there nothing is missing at all , it cost me £475 from deans marines , this would be a ideal project for a model boat enthusiast I just don’t have the time ! Any questions please ask PRICE £275 Cash on collection only as this is a big ship ?
Know the feeling with 'time' for things like synch'ed gun flash and sound! I have loads of miniature LEDs and two programmable sound units with synch switches - as yet only the instructions have been out of the box🤔 My destroyer radar is also independent of the RC - I just put a microswitch under the 'B' gun turret to switch it on 😉
Hi Dave M I love the Idea of posting a topic in the Forum! Maybe we can write the instructions. on how to upload and post pictures in the Harbour Entries even other areas of the Website. I look forward to reading such a topic. Ed
Great post fantastic project - most of use Li-Po batteries without any issues allbeit in portable or laptop computers, some cell phones, portable chargers and elsewhere. Heck, a standard alkaline 1.5 or 9 volt battery can cause issues if not properly used or placed under stress. But - I’ve made mistakes myself and come close to bad issues using power sources improperly or without heading instructions such as using them full out without allowing them to cool. It’s all about using caution and precautions, understandably accidents do happen though
[Score: 8/10] 23"/1200g Aeronaut Spitfire Capable of 20mph and a runtime of 10mins Single Propellor (2 Blade S Type 25mm) Direct Drive to a Hobbyking outboard (2 Blade S Type) Powered by LiPoly (7.4v) Batteries Controlled Through Turnigy ESC - Comments: This is my aeronaut Spitfire. This was my second build following a lifetime of RC Aircraft. The kit was a joy to build with really nice quality wood and components with good instructions. Sourcing the outboard was a challange but Hobbyking had the solution. running on 2 x 7.4v Lipo and Turnigy water colled ESC this should go very well. Not had a chance to run it yet, but the bath test has shown no leaks and sits well in the water. Actionman and his clothing, helmet ect where sourced from eBay for about £12, bargin!
Having looked at the P94 self build diagrams the two positive and negative leads are connected together on the circuit board. The positive leads are connected by a thin copper track which I suspect would suffer if two mismatched (voltage wise) batteries were connected to each positive lead. By using two sets of leads the wiring is kept to smaller diameter and matches the two power distribution boards by ACTION. The instructions do warn against using separate batteries and there is a wiring diagram showing both sets of leads joined and fed via one large fuse to the battery. However the diagram on the description page shows fuses on each red lead which should be ignored and probably accounts for any confusion regarding battery connections. There can be problems (some are incompatible systems) with 2.4 sets due to the delay in the signal establishing after the ESCs have self set and sometimes when the BEC voltage drops due to high current demands. This can be overcome by changing the chip to a non self setting version or disabling the onboard BEC and using a separate Rx battery. Personally I use a separate battery wherever possible.
Great. Did not even consider it before your mail. No slots in the box, but I can see now that you are expected to cut those yourself............ There are two sheets of instructions and I see the shaded areas on the diagram of the box lid but no indication of what they are for. They assume you know what you are doing............! Well there are eight holes of different shapes to cut out so that will take a while. You realise that my next thread is going to be asking on the sound generator! May not get much further now before the break away for a week. Thanks for all your help. NPJ.
I have a Robbe Smaragd Yacht. 1/10 scale. This is quite old now and could do with a ‘make over’. I would like to see some plans or instructions from the build before I start and would therefore be grateful if anyone with knowledge of this model or better still, copies of any paperwork that came with the kit contacted me. A few pics attached of this very ‘forgiving’ yacht............ All the best. NPJ
Hi Les, No! Is this your 'Confuse-a-Doug service?) 😉 The one you have in your hand is the FS-i6, which is identical with my unit. The two extra proportional pots (knobs!) are on the panel in the middle at the top just above the FLSKY logo, just like my HT-6 (German label!) Stick with it, it's better than the iA version. BUT If you are being offered the i6 in exchange for the iA6 then GRAB IT! Then you will need to bind it to your RX as per instructions I sent, or Dave's video reference - Whatever floats your boat 😉 Bon chance mon ami, Doug
Hi Dave & Les, attached the binding instructions from FS-i6 manual and my HT-6 manual. Procedure and connections are identical, but in my manual the instructions are in clear proper English without all the Chinese gobbledygook! Only boob they made was to write 'binding button on the receiver' which should of course be 'on the transmitter' Oops🤔 Stick with the TX you have Les! Don't see any advantage in changing. In fact you'd be worse off because the IA6S has fewer model memories and does not have the two proportional pots between the switches, which the i6 does have. You may not need 'em for your yacht but who knows what else you might build? So why swap for a less capable TX? Cheers Doug 😎
Hi Doug Just seen your post re the manual. I assume this is for the German badged offering. The binding instructions don't always work with some rx. My friend has a FlySky FS-16 and bought two new rx from Bangood and whilst one worked the other didn't. There is a U-tube video that shows how and uses the bind plug on a different set of rx pins. This worked with the rx that had previously not bound. As Canabus says this set is rebadged for several retailers so I am not surprised there are minor differences that can cause confusion. Les My advice is to leave well alone if the set is bound and working. The advice I gave about upgrading related to the FS-16S and may not be necessary for the FS-16 which you have.
Hi Les That's the unit one of my fellow sailors has. It's almost identical specs but can store 20 models as against the 10 for FS-1A16s. If you look at the U-tube videos I suggested you can see a review and I chose this as it is less cluttered as you say and possibly easier to use for say a novice. As this is being raffled any problems will probably end up at my door so I do hope I have made the right choice. I do believe they use the same RX but the binding instructions caused my friend a problem. There is a U-tube video showing the correct way to do this so not really a problem. It's down to personal choice really and if you are happy with the set and it works OK I believe I would hold on to it as it will be OK for the yacht. Please keep us posted with your progress as others will benefit from your experience.
I have an old Southampton , off E.Bay a couple of years ago. I fitted the Components shop mixer, 2x 3400mAH NiMh packs(one for each motor)2 Mtroniks 15A Marine vipers, Technobots diesel sound system and also a Technobots 16 channel sound system. There is not a lot of spare space! I had a problem with the mixer eventually. It worked very well, as I did not think the turning circle in the original form was very good. I took it out eventually and went over to tank steering, which is OK but seems to be more effective in turning one way rather than the other, it's fine in a straight line. I found out after I had removed the mixer that the supposed problem was of my own making. So many wires inside that I was not in fact charging one of the battery packs so it ended up flat. Nothing wrong with the mixer at all! I mounted the engine sound speaker in the lower half of the cabin,where there was just enough room, where the window openings are not glazed(at least on my boat they aren't). Sound was OK but it was a bit lacking in volume, but I may need a higher power speaker, not sure as audio is a non area to me. The 16 channel unit is good in that a micro SD card is supplied with pre- recorded sounds, and instructions are given on how to record your own. The difficulty with this particular sound system is finding somewhere to put the second speaker as the 2 systems cannot be fed into the same speaker. It was a bit faint to say the least,possibly due to the tiny speaker I used. I tried to fit a transducer glued to the underside of the deck but there was no improvement so that is a work in progress. The inside of the hull resembled a very untidy birds nest! CHris