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>> Home > Tags > instructions

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VOSPER 46" Crash Tender by Elsrickle Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 8 days ago
Thanks again been searching all over for that info. Got my Crash Tender completed just setting up the the smaller 7.4volt lipo’s if ok will show the photos. Did find with the Hawk escs set up the forward stop and reverse settings as per the instructions and the motors worked immediately only had to go into the parameters to set the reverse. So you may have another problem on your setup and not the hawk esc

4 C's by samc Petty Officer   Posted: 13 days ago
[Score: 7/10] 36"/1100g 4 C's Capable of 10mph and a runtime of 10mins Twin Propellors (2 Blade X Type 25mm) Direct Drive to a still thinking about it. (2 Blade X Type) Powered by NiCad (7.2v) 5Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through HobbyWing for two motors (5Amps) ESC - Comments: just finished the 1930 CC runabout, bought 18 years ago, bought this dumas model cause i thought the instructions would be similar, which they are not. wrong Numbers for parts, wrong instructions, or non for a piece. i guess they want you to buy there DVD for $20. also building the hull the wood split, and did all kinds of things. had to come up with my own way to cover the hull.

Wave Princess by jimdogge Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 15 days ago
Hello mate don't bother with any downloads just give me an address on the private message service and l will send a nice Chrisp copy of the wave princess plan l have. There are assembly instructions on the MB website with a list of Materials/parts l wouldn't bother it's been copied so many times it's almost unintelligible. Anyways good luck with the building and if l can give you any help on size or materials ( my princess is a 30 odd year old kit) l will try and help. Good luck Jim.

Wave Princess by jimdogge Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 17 days ago
Hi ian another thought have a look on the wave princess history l know some body else put up some plans/drawings and assembly instructions these are the plans l have so if they are what you want. I shall get it printed for you. jim.

lastest progress by teejay Commander   Posted: 1 month ago
Hi All here is the last on the schenllboot S100 I have been able to finish the paint work on the hull and she is now ready for final coats of varnish and full reinstallation of the RC equipment , still a bit nervous about that, part of the installation instructions are indicating the red wires on two of the esc,s need to be cut , I think this is the switch wire so the you only need one switch to active the other motors . I will look in to that before cutting

Boat lifting eyes by MouldBuilder Captain   Posted: 1 month ago
Looks really good. I am a precision engineer but I still look in awe at the way you get around making small items. Sorry Doug, but this is the next project for me. With this blog to help with all of its detailed instructions, what could go wrong. Well except perhaps everything.😊

Boaty P.T 109 by BOATSHED Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Dear oldtimer, If you have the patience to build a plastic model and the decide to fit it out and use RC in it. Then I am sure you would be able to build a model from wood. You can buy a wooden boat kit and if you have been able to read and do what the instructions say in your plastic kit then the wooden one would be no harder. You should never put yourself down and have belief in yourself and do it. Im sure you could.

Plant T5 by Jerry1 Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 1 month ago
Hi, anyone have a copy of instructions for the Plant T5 2.4GH radio kit

SLA Batteries! by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Mornin' Ed, Veery interestink! These PNP ESCs from mTronik are relativley new. I have some mTronik Viper Marine 10A for my smaller 'brushed' boats and on first use I simply have to teach them which way on the throttle stick is forwards and which backwards. Looking at the so called manual for your PNP version I note instructions and notes as in attached pics. How you re-train it I can't see! Maybe just start again from switch on, but watch what you do with the throttle stick. Also seems it 'adjusts' as you use it. Quite what that means they don't explain🤔 Give 'em a ring and ask! I guess you reckoned; 'OK PNP so who needs to look at the manual'! Common mistook!🤔 What do you mean by "I then have to switch it to go forward." Switch what, where and how? And what effect did it have? Cheers, Doug 😎 BTW: what's that right next to the motor with cables trailing over the motor, and why can't I see any suppressor capacitors on the motor?

Paddle tug Glasgow. by rolfman2000 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
I have just purchased an already built model of the paddle tug Glasgow. I was going over it, and a few bits struck me as odd. The paddles seem to be on back to front, the row boat seems to be on the wrong side, and the paddle covers are stuck down, making maintenance all bar impossible. I was wondering if anyone had maybe a set of instructions, or a manual, that I could borrow or get copies of. I'm having real trouble finding anything on the net, apart from, out of stock, out of production. Hoping someone can help. Best wishes, Dave W

Pilot Boat by figtree7nts Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi MouldBuilder, You can do it. Just look at the instructions! Use the building board. That come with the kit! Take your time. No need to rush! Cheers, Ed

Pilot Boat by MouldBuilder Captain   Posted: 2 months ago
Winter approaches again so what better than a new project,.......to go along with the other two yet to be completed. I have excuses. Honest!! This new one is a bit different again. No wood at all this time. It is the Aero-naut Pilot Boat. I thought it didn`t look too much of a task but I think I will have to re-assess as it is tricky in parts. I have assembled the hull frame, which although the parts are rather loose fitting until glued went ok. I have, however, stumbled slightly on the next stage, to fit the hull skins. The instructions suggest to cellotape them in place prior to glueing. Not as easy as it sounds as considerable bending of the parts is required to get them to fit, too much for the tape. Does anybody know of an easier approach please. The ABS is extremely difficult to hold in position when trying to tape it, which incidently, does not hold anyway. Should I warm up the skins or will this distort them and give a rippled finish. Any help here would be appreciated.🤓 I will continue with the refurbishment of the Patrol Torpedo Boat for now as I have been trying to manipulate the sides of the Pilot boat into place for hours, no, days!!.😡😤

Going quiet for a while... by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi all, forgive me if I seem to go quiet for a while. I am trying to finish the master pattern for a 1/6th scale Vincent Black Shadow motorbike kit and it's at the stage where I'm having to check everything to make sure it's a) right and b) fits, so I'll be singularly pre-occupied with that for the forthcoming weeks, until it goes off to various places for production. Although quite why the person lined up to build the first and photograph it for instructions thinks it'll take three months I can't imagine! Cheers, Martin

Leaking Boat! by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi Neville, thanks for the endorsement👍 Just case of 'bin there - dun that - didn't work' Fixing a leak from the inside can never work properly. The water will continue to creep into the wood of the hull causing delamination of ply or simply rotting 🤔 Sealing the inside is intended to prevent any water entering through shaft tubes, rudder stocks or deck hatches etc from soaking into the wood. Re your liquid hardener- Instructions on my can of polyester resin state- 2 to 4% by volume hardener -> 10 minutes working time, 40 minutes to harden @ 15 to 20°C. I.e. for 100ml resin 2 to 4ml hardener. Overdo it and it'll set in a few minutes and get damned hot in the process!😲 Has been know to cause fires or finger burns 😡 Cheers, Doug 😎

Leaking Boat! by NPJ Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Well just in case anyone was wondering.............After the visitors left I was being taken away for a few days R&R so I had a morning to 'mess about' as it is referred to here. A quick cheap and cheerful job was the one for me so ignoring all advice so kindly given I took up on G. K. Chesterton's advice "If a job is worth doing it is worth doing badly".......or did I get that wrong? First thing to do with a leaking boat was to drill some holes in it...........! You see, I was careful and had a piece of wood underneath. After vacuuming out I then poured Eze-Kote through the holes and persuaded an assistant to use the boat as one would a cocktail shaker. Then, pleased I had done something,I went away for a few days and it would have time to dry. Well back now and placed boat into bath a few hours ago. Result was..........water in the bilges in the same quantity as previously! Lesson......Always listen to Doug! Now, rather than sailing, I have both the issue of this leak looking like 'amidships' and the business of that bow to deal with. So will move back to the main thread. What is the best proportion of liquid hardener to resin? I bought some whilst away. Came without instructions. They must have thought someone who knew what they were doing would be using it.................. TTFN. NPJ