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>> Home > Tags > keel

Sea-Lite by Mids-Phil Petty Officer   Posted: 9 days ago
[Score: 5/10] - Comments: Acquired this Sea-Lite sailing yacht as a project. Everything works after a fashion but based on mixed reviews the intention is to replace the radio gear, winch and rudder servos and increase the keel weight

Emma C. Berry by steve-d Commander   Posted: 11 days ago
The width of the keel bulb is not that relevant but you do need to make the front and back of both the bulb and the fin pointy. The back is as important as the front because the water behind the bulb will form a vortex and produce drag. Everything you see on an aeroplane wing is equally true for you keel. Steve

PS Iona - on the water by Harvey Kitten Lieutenant   Posted: 11 days ago
So how does it sail? very slowly! Iona is prone to the wind and will slip sideways on a windy day and also keel over on very windy days so one paddle comes out of the water. On a calm day it is a very manoeuvrable craft and looks good. I have a few refinements to add to the boat so it gets finished and looks like a working tug.

Paddle Tug Iona - the hull by Harvey Kitten Lieutenant   Posted: 11 days ago
So... here is a compressed build blog of my paddle tug Iona... and I'm playing catch-up as the vessel is 95% complete and has been sailed already, but there may be some interest in what I've done. Iona was scratch-built off plan and has turned out to be the cheapest build so far out of 3 I've made, mainly because I was able to source materials from the leftovers box! It's a 'mixed-media' boat 😜using traditional methods of plank on frame hull, with paddles made on my 3D printer, and other parts turned on the lathe. So starting with the hull, frames were drawn out, transferred to some scrap 9mm ply and cut out on my bandsaw, along with the keel. These were assembled on a build board with some right angle brackets / measuring tools and test fitted before being stuck in place with epoxy. This was quite difficult as the shape of the hull is critical and comes right at the start of the build. I did remake 1 frame to correct alignment. The deck stringers need to bend in 2 directions, so some steaming with a carpet steam cleaner attached to some tubes worked and the wood clamped in place to dry. Outboard sponsons (?) were fitted to make a frame for the paddle boxes to fit on. Then a large sheet of ply forms the bottom of the hull, and the only job left to complete was the (tedious) planking. This was my 1st plank on frame ship... and it took ages. I think it came out reasonably OK but I'm not a perfectionist and I know if I'd spent more time it could be better... but I didn't! Next blog will feature building the paddle boxes and superstructure.🤓

Emma C. Berry by Nerys Lieutenant   Posted: 11 days ago
Do you really need the bulb and fin? They are normally fitted to a shallow draft hull. A displacement hull like yours normally has ballast incorporated into the keel. If you think there is insufficient ballast at the moment, I'm sure you could find a way of attaching some extra, moulded onto the keel.

Clamp Chaos by Joe727 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 12 days ago
Steve, You are quite right, I intend to flip it over, build some jigs, when it's time to do the hull "planking". My methods are to experiment along the way on a Build, try different ideas along the way. Decided that I first wanted to build a very straight, rigid keel with stern and bow ribs first. That's why the build board is just a lightweight flat straight surface, I figure out how to clamp it best as I go. Your interest and comments are appreciated, it made me think more about the planking, thanks! Joe

Emma C. Berry by Nerys Lieutenant   Posted: 13 days ago
I know more about full size sailing vessels than I do models but Steve-D is quite correct in saying you need momentum in order to come about. The usual practice with a vessel with a long straight keel would be to let her pay off a little to get a bit more weigh on her, then sail her round slowly rather than putting the helm hard down. If she still got into irons, backing the foresails would help to bring her round. It wasn't unknown for a hard headed ship to let her pay right off, gybe her round, then come back on the wind on the other tack. I hope you won't have to resort to that.

Emma C. Berry by steve-d Commander   Posted: 13 days ago
In order to go about you need the boat to retain some momentum whilst the sails are not filled. I think the bluntness of both the keel bulb and its fin are producing sufficient drag to loose way during the turn. Steve

Clamp Chaos by Joe727 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 13 days ago
Hello, It's been a slow week as I started out having some teeth pulled, put me off track so I missed getting some photos. I will get some better shots of what the keel board looks like once I get some clamps out of the way. I will photo how I do the last four ribs as well. Photos show my makeshift board with clamps everywhere. Joe

Emma C. Berry by carpemoment Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 14 days ago
I need some help. I've successfully refurbished my static display Emma C. Berry model and added remote control. I have the sails on a winch loop, I have the rudder on a servo, I even managed to add a motor, and an extended keel with weight. The one issue that I have not been able to resolve is maneuvering under sail. Primarily, I cannot get it to move through the irons when coming about. She responds and the sails will luft, she might even catch some wind but she never makes enough of a turn to change direction. I've already changed out the rudder for the larger size on the plans. I've also tried extending the depth of the rudder. Bottom line, she is mainly being driven by the current. In this situation, by current I mean whichever way the wind is blowing the small lake. It is a local park lake and doesn't really have any inherent current. My one suspicion is the keel I added. It is doing its job to keep her upright and providing some resistance but in the end, the underwater current is overpowering her response to the rudder and/or trimming the sails. See Photo. I had originally wanted to incorporate a more rounded profile on the ends of the weight and the shafts but I remember reading somewhere that it isn't that critical Sails are per the plans and made from the material that came with the kit (25+ years ago). I even added a couple of sailor figures but we still can't establish control. 😭

Keel by mturpin013 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 17 days ago
Where there's a will there's a way Joe, Well done keep up the good work.

CNC boat kits...? by DodgyGeezer Commander   Posted: 17 days ago
Not much point uploading a .pdf, unless it has some unusual conversion software. CNC machines work off G Code. The work area is critical for model boat work. Typical parts are long and thin. The eShapeoko I am building is a nominal 1m x 500mm, which lets me do a 36" keel piece. I would like to put out G Code for cutting the EeZebilt boats, but am not sure how to standardise it so that many CNC machines will be able to use it. Different CNC controllers seem to use subtly different G Code commands...

Keel by Joe727 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 17 days ago
Printed out the frames /ribs drawings and outlined each in orange so I could easily see the correct lines. Cut those out and pasted to some plywood. The plywood is Baltic Birch 1/4" -5 ply, very nice quality that I get from a local woodworking supply store. It's a bit nicer than from the local warehouse hardware lumber yard, but that would work also. Used some spray rubber cement, sprayed only the paper back and stuck on the plywood. Spraying just one surface allows quick removal of the paper once cut. I don't have a bandsaw of scroll saw, so I use a sabresaw/hand jigsaw mounted upside down on a surface that secures to my drill press. Works pretty good. My shop is so tiny that I just don't have a space for larger tools. Maybe someday. Keel board was glued up, will show more tomorrow on that. Joe

Planning Ahead by Joe727 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 18 days ago
Spent the last two days studying the barge design and planning the build. First I scanned the small book-page size images, then with my laptop I cropped them into separate smaller images to my chosen scale. I cut, align and tape them, assemble an image that is to the size of the build. In the past I would use the local print shop and just enlarged on their large roll printer. It added up to a lot of money as they are about $7 a shot, with mistakes made it cost too much. Now that I am retired I pinch those pennies much tighter. This was more time consuming but is very accurate. Next I sketched out the keel board shape, colored up as seen in the photos. Sketch out an idea to accommodate the bulb keel that I intend to add. This one is to sail on Sunday's at the pond, so I will do my best to engineer to sail well. Cheers Joe

Revised Gypsy by Ron Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 22 days ago
The little 15” sailboat never preformed well, so I am making some alterations to the keel, adding furled sails and a small inboard motor.