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Here is the last of the Lowestoft sailing trawlers. Model built using working drawings kindly supplied by the Sailing Trust. Model about 12 years old. I got a little carried away on detail! As expected she sails and handles well as all the old work sailors do. Drop keel and rudder extension added when sailing.
[Score: 8/10] 34" Excelsior - Comments: Scratch built model of the last surviving Lowestoft sailing trawler which is managed by a sailing trust. And a much loved vessel. Model sails well with drop keel and rudder extension. 12 years old. Working drawings kindly supplied by the Trust.
The plan seems to indicate weight in the keel, which is where you will need it. I suggest you put the model in your bath add the steel and see how the model floats. All the keel and an inch or so of the hull should be submerged with the weight battery and servos resting in the hull. Add or remove weight to get about right. I would cut a slot in the keel to add the weight as low as possible. The plan seems to suggest this. Seal temporarily and recheck for correct waterline. You could use cling film to seal whilst checking. When happy make good the keel and fit the servos etc and check again before fixing the deck.
The Gypsy kit includes a steel plate to use in the keel for ballast. I measured the main sail from the plan which is 6.5” long the boom and 13.5 along the mast. The jib measures 5” by 8”. I confess my understanding of the laws of physics is poor. How does one calculate the amount of weight to build into a model based upon the sail area? I read from another forum that mild steel bar stock and weighs in at 81gr. After I secure the keel to the hull, my plan is to use bird-shot glued along the bottom inside of the hull as needed . The last photo is not my boat but shows how another person cur out the keel area to secure the mild steel bar for weight. I plan to do the same, unless I hear from some more experienced builders with their suggestions.
Keel with rudder assembly being designed, brass strips will be added to rudder to secure the brass rod. The interior view shows where the battery box fits. Designing the installation of other servos is on going.
Before the funnel could be installed wanted to fit a working radar scanner, navigation lights and the batteries. Decided to use sub C NIMH batteries in plastic holders, they should have the target endurance and provide some ballast. Fitted two sets of 4 cells, one at the forward end of the superstructure and the other at the rear, both at keel level. These were inserted into wooden battery trays to hold them in place. A dry test run showed a full speed motor run time well exceeding the hour target, so will try on water. Also took the opportunity to fit the Rx and then adjust the rudder before finishing off the wiring. Both the navigation lights (LEDs) and the radar scanner work. The radar is driven by a servo with the potentiometer removed and a magnetic drive shaft run up through the superstructure from below the deck. The motor requires about 9 volts to run at what would seem to be something approximating to scale speed; fitted a voltage reducer to allow the lights and the radar to work on less than 6 volts. The mast lights are to be installed in a separate circuit after the masts are added. As I get more into the detail it is evident the GA drawing and the photographs of the vessel in service differ. Fortunately the component locations seem consistent, although the equipment is not. This most apparent in the hold ventilators. The GA shows the standard cowl vents, but the photographs show a mixture between an vertically squeezed oval vent (which am advised is more typically German) and ventilator columns with cylindrical caps. The column style vents with cylindrical caps were easily made from two different sizes of styrene tube with the cap tops made from styrene offcuts. The squeezed oval style vents were more difficult. Broke them down into the major parts of the cylindrical vertical tube and, from a larger tube cut a small ring and filed one end to straddle the tube once it had been squeezed oval. Glued it into place whilst restrained in a small hand vice. Once set, removed and sanded the the two to give a smooth transition, closing the rear aperture off with styrene offcuts. Then resorted to wood filler, filed down to give a smooth, oval vent.
Let the build begin, first job is to cut all the keel components out and trim any pips. I found the most accurate method of marking the position of the bulkheads on the central keel was to lay the cabin sides on the keel and transfer the positions of the already cut slots in the cabin sides onto the keel. The keel was then supported with four 90 degree angle brackets, Starting with the K1 pair they are clamped in position up against B1 then drilled through with 1.8 mm drill, and a 2 mm brass pin pushed home, this was repeated inserting each bulkhead along the whole keel ensuring the bulkheads would fit after the keel components were epoxied. The brass pins are then removed, each pair are epoxied and once again the pins pushed back right through this ensures accurate positioning. As I worked along each section the assembly was clamped. Note the two angle brackets holding the keel square at bulkhead B1
Keel base The first puzzle was the aspect of the keel base with the first bulkhead position for B1 and the fact that they are not square and actually at 88.9 degrees This made me question as to whether the keel should lay flat on the base or the bulkhead should be in the vertical plane when fitted. This could result in a small error of the vertical B1 or a 10mm error in the keel having to be raised by 10mm at the point where the prop-shaft emerges. A quick call Michael Cummings at VMW confirmed this should be a 90 degrees not 89 degrees. Therefore the keel lays flat as I thought it should and there would be a small gap between B1 and its vertical face. Michael Cummings said he would look into this.
Laser cut kit from Barracuda RC Boats, N Carolina, USA. Baltic birch plywood false keel, ribs/frames, hull sheathing, deck and cabins. No formal plans; I was able to source a handful of B&W archival photos from the USCG website. Fortunately I was able to procure a motherload of archival photos and a few hard to read layout drawings from Mr. Timothy Dring, LCDR, USN (Ret.). He is co-author of "American Coastal Rescue Craft", which is the "bible" if you will, of such. I do sometimes thank the internet. I am certain that without his assistance, my efforts on this wouldn't have been as enjoyable. The kit was also void of fittings, which I was aware of prior to purchase, so I invested in a 3D printer. That I've used to a limited degree, due to searching for parts in the correct file format is mind-numbing! I have globally sourced fittings; USA, UK, ASIA. As a matter of fact, the searchlights I got from this Model Boat Shop were 3D printed, and I was able to fit 5mm LEDs into them. I'd like to get a couple more and put some superbright 12v LED drone lamps in them for use on my 35" towboat. Many deck fittings are handmade when possible, the cleats and fairleads are from Cornwall Boats, UK. (Very reasonable & diverse source, if you didn't already know.) I try to keep wood natural when detail allows it, as I never have enjoyed painting over natural grain. Her decks are covered with 1/16" scribed basswood sheathing from earthandtree.com, which is normally used for wainscoting dollhouse walls. All my boats that have wood decks are covered with scribed sheathing; I feel it makes 'em look "sexy". Believe it or not, the idea for wainscoting came from finding 3/16" at Hobby Lobby's dollhouse department. A couple of feet x 3.5" was about $16, so I found a less expensive source that also had more selections (earthandtree.com) The rail stanchions are 3/16" square dowels with 2 corners rounded over on the Dremel router table. Leaving their base square, I fit a square peg into a round hole with no glue to facilitate removal, and also for ease of replacing broken ones, which is inevitable. The rail is 1/16" brass rod that also is readily removable. The stern rail is stationary on the lower half, and the chain & wire stanchions are removable for towing ops. The deck coamings and knuckle are African mahogany strips, other mahogany accents came from leftovers of a prior build. I also try on all my boats, to incorporate vintage leftover scribed sheathing salvaged from my late Father's builds, so I know he's got a part in my builds. Note-the raised deck section between the aft ladder trunk and towing bit is actually a laminated deckhouse he made for the Frigate Essex. Unfortunately, he was unable to build that kit due to Alzheimer's disease in his latter years. (I blame that mostly on the hazardous fumes from the airplane "dope" & glue he used when building RC planes in the 60s & 70s.) I use polyurethane instead of resin due to COPD, 37 yrs of smoking, I quit 2.5 yrs ago. The driveline consists of: 775 Johnson DC main (3500 RPM@12V), Harbor Models 4mm x 14" shaft w/brass stuffing box, Raboesch 75mm 5-blade brass wheel (not OEM), 5mm U-joint couplers, Dimart 320A fan-cooled ESC. Handmade wooden teardrop rudder on a 3/8" sternpost, 1/4" tiller arm steered by a Halcion sail winch servo and cable system. Flysky 6 channel. The nav lights and other illumination are Lighthouse 9v LEDs, also a GoolRC Receiver controlled flashing blue Law Enforcement light. Obviously, I put the cart before the horse and completed the topsides and below deck before finishing the outer hull, but the Wx and season change dictated such. Can't wait for Spring!
Just a small introduction, I am a retired engineer, trained as a toolmaker and practiced this in various forms for 20 plus years before going into Lecturing in engineering for 13 years then finally working on development of NVQs and VRQs for an Engineering Awarding Body. As far as My model making experience I did a little as a youngster helping my dad to build the 36 inch Crash tender and then doing some model aircraft but that was 50 years ago. I then became hooked on building a kit car which has occupied me for many years changing things and maintaining it as a recreational vehicle. This brings me up to date and instead of restoring a classic car I decided to get back to model making and this is the start of the 46 Crash Tender. So here we go Out of the box and the contents checked off, a minor anomaly on the parts numbering but soon sorted by VMW. I have spent some time in kitting out a new work station in what used to be my office until I retired. I now have two workshops one upstairs and one in the basement. How good is that? One of the of the first things was to construct a substantial building board that would give a perfectly flat base and a grid that could ensure bulkheads are square to the keel an parallel with each other also the same aspects in the vertical axis. I lined out the base board with parallel lines spaced at 25 mm and then from the centre-line at 90 degrees I marked the bulkhead positions.
Hi Chris, glad to have helped, having already been down that road and learning the hard way! 😉 Actually Raboesch is a Dutch company. Not quite Double Dutch but in the case of 'Left - Right' props close to 🤔 Your boat: Rother class, OK so it's a slow (10knots) displacement hull. With bilge keels which make turning more difficult. I would probably use two brushed motors cos you don't need the Oomph of brushless. With brushed you can then use the Action Electronics Dual ESC and rudder mixer, P94Lite. From Component Shop. See pic. https://www.componentshop.co.uk/action-electronics/esc.html Good for 10A continuous to each motor - brushed ONLY! I'm about to fit one to my 5 foot Graf Spee. With the hull form of the Rother only sea trials will confirm which is best outward or inward. have fun with the build and trials, looking forward to updates / pics / vids 👍 BTW: will yours also be Self Righting??? 😉 Cheers Doug 😎
Job lot, one buyer only! I need the garage space back! 3 x Radio 10 Raters - two have 1 rig & winches, 2 FG & 1 Wood 1 x Complete IOM - 1 Rig & whirlwind winch FG 2 x IOM hulls only - 1 Planked & 1 very light FG & carbon fin 1 x Marblehead - complete FG Red - 1 x rig winch rx 1 x Planked hull 58" (6M ?) Graham Bantock 1 Rig & winch 1 x 1950's A-Boat (FG & Huge!) Rigging very old & original 2 x Hulls & original mould for 50's A-Boat + 3 x steel keels 1 x Victoria Class - Rigging in peices as I was going to CF it. 1 x Another kit in a box 675 class or something? 1 x Fleetwood Flyer - two suits no radio gear Various Futaba radios, servos & other oddments. May also throw in a couple of old air-planes. A rig for measuring the IOM hulls. An old Tony Abel winch... Serious clearout, may find more bits. It's not that modern & some will need a bit of fettling but grab yourself a substantial number of models! Difficult to get pictures as the garage is rammed full,but I have a few I am asking a reasonable £500 for the lot. Buyer to collect from Burnham, South Bucks nr Jcn 7 M4
Colin - it's a difficult one as obviously it's a completely different matter working on a build compared with a completed boat i.e. you don't have anywhere to grip/attach to a completed hull etc. I was looking at a building board/jig for my builds (over a smaller range compared with your builds i.e. 23" to 33") but decided in the end that it was better to just use a good thick MDF board and temporarily fix the keel and a temporary spine along the top of the frames to it. But it sounds like you have already found what suits your needs but it needs making out of some stronger material? What about making it out of thick aluminium or even getting it cut out by an engineering company? Would be worth the cost if you are going to get a lot of use out of it? Chris