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>> Home > Tags > keel

keel
keel
Wherry hull in GRP by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 days ago
Hi Dave, as Arron is the name on the facebook chat heading I assumed, reasonably, that he is the one to talk to. It's perfectly possible to see faults in a product without actually having it in one's hand. I can see that the light reflections down the side show the sides to be not fairly curved. Years in the car design/prototyping game have ensured that (I, too, am a tool/patternmaker of many years experience, from 1/500th city models to full size Bugatti design models). I have a good eye and both are telling me that hull in the picture I was sent isn't top drawer. The top edge of the hull is very woolly, not smoothly trimmed, but the main objection is that it's not clinker and that is a major problem for a wherry, considering only Albion was carvel. With a clinker model we could have a selection of different craft. With carvel, every model would be Albion, a little tedious at the pondside, I'm sure you would agree. Perhaps you could produce a pattern by gluing planks on to the basic GRP structure? Then re-mould. To counter the balance of such a big sail in a blow you will also need a fin keel, but that's down to the builder really, though your experiments with waterline would be useful for buyers of the hull as to weights required, etc. I don't wish to pee on your bonfire, but with a history of so many very good (and obviously so) GRP hulls on the market, we have come to expect a bang-on quality from the word go. Of course, any company new or old, who are prepared to listen to criticism and act on it are more than welcomed. Perhaps some different photos of the hull would satisfy us as to its shape and moulding quality? If it were a lot better than that one photo shows, I would be prepared to buy one still and then glue suitable planks to it to get my clinker model if that proves possible. I can't really say fairer than that. Cheers, Martin

LED Tug Mast Navigation Lights by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 9 days ago
Evenin' Both, Pete, you're right about the hatch, in the instructions (or mine at least with the old 40MHz version) they warn you to leave the hatch loose when not using the boat. Otherwise it sticks to the foam gasket. Just like yours did 😉 During the upgrade of my 40MHz Southampton I will remove that over-engineered catch and use neodymium magnets in the corners instead. That gives more 'headroom' to fit a decent sized NiMh battery underneath 😊 And yes there are 3 different versions of this boat, whereby Richardson and Southampton are identical apart from name and 'paint job'. 27 and 40 MHz with no frills and the modern 2.4GHz version with bells and whistles. Well, lights and smoke anyway 😊 Makes a change from Smoke and Mirrors eh? 😁 So between the 3 of us we represent all 3 generations!!! According to my manual the foam is there to absorb moisture that might ingress through stuffing tubes or hatches so full marks to Pete 👍 Re different RC frequencies, as a ex Radio and naval COMMS engineer: 27MHz and 40MHz have inherently longer range and better water penetration, which is why I still have such sets for my submarines. 2.4GHz is strictly Line of Sight only, which is one reason why they first gained popularity with the 'Fly Boys'. 2.4Gig waves also bounce off water or are absorbed by it, so it's useless for subs😭 The other reason is that they use a frequency hopping (FH) technique which makes them virtually immune to interference 😊 Although I have yet to find a set that hops over the full 85 frequencies available. Most seem to only use 16 or so🤔 Limited bandwidth at the RX !? As with all FH radio systems 2.4Gig RC sets also use a binding technique so that the RX recognises the 'signature', i.e- hop sequence, of it's own TX and ignores others. Mostly anyway 😉 Here endeth the 99th Epistle of Admiral Doug 😁 Main thing is, enjoy the 'fiddlin aboot' and even more so the sailing, as my German colleagues say; "I wish you always a hand's breadth of water under your keel". Cheers Doug 😎

10 Rater by don6398 Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 13 days ago
Brian Over hear in the US we have the american model association has all specs on all model sailboats . I have a 10 rater which is 60 inches long 18 inches wide. The keel on my looks same as yours. My boat is scratch built. Make the rudder out of Fiberglass it worked for me😊.

Wherry hull in GRP by CB90 Commander   Posted: 14 days ago
My Father made a Wherry see attached pictures. There is a lot of research required for an accurate model, note the sail winch has to swing out of the way for the mast to fold down, the real mast is counter balanced so it can be raised and lowered. Also note a Wherry is never painted green! The keel and weight distribution can help the forward mast position and a tendency for the bow to be low in the water on models. My Dad also made a large scale version which was displayed outside of the Norfolk Wherry Museum

AC 60 by stew1960 Petty Officer   Posted: 15 days ago
naw 😎this yachts has under gone a re fit from a new radio sails and keel👍

H.M.S BRAVE BORDERER by RHBaker Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 16 days ago
Now the spray has settled have assessed these first tests; have also reviewed various pictures and U Tube videos of the Brave and Pekasas in operation. The actual vessels look to plane rather like mine, whilst some model bows lift up until a significant length of keel is exposed. Anyway, have been able to draw some conclusions: 1) Moved the battery towards the stern and, at speed, the forefoot lifts slightly clear of the water. The plane is now almost flat. The battery is not well positioned when near the bow. 2) The 2S battery used was a 4000mAh 30C; suspect this battery does not have the capacity to operate the model. Every motor will run up smoothly until a second one is operated. The first motor then “stutters” and a fuse might blow, this could be indicative of a power surge. Any comments from the electronic experts among the group would be appreciated. 3) The 3S battery was 10,500mAh and 40C; with this battery all three motors can be run at full speed together and fuses do not blow. It was also very heavy at 1700g, holding the model down. 4) The motors are 4500 kV. On refection, think a slower motor around, perhaps 2000 kV would have been a better choice. 5) Would concur with comments by others that a simple single or two bladed propeller layout for this model is probably best - that is unless you want to capture the true scale layout. The centre propeller seems to have little effect on overall performance, although it will power the model quite nicely when operating by itself. Have had several suggestions about how best to use the centre propeller. Will think about them and decide later how to do this when I start to finish the model. 6) The 2 blade Hi – speed propellers both increased performance and current draw. The model is more than fast enough with the original scale layout. 7) Will purchase a lighter, 3 S battery as that seems the best choice for performance and weight. 8) Testing using the bare hull with a minimum of detail worked well. For a models with a complex power train, this is a good approach as access to the internals can be gained easily. Nothing worse that finishing a boat carefully just to find the performance disappointing. Then having to to rip it apart to make major modifications or adjustments!

Macedonian by Jerry Todd Captain   Posted: 21 days ago
[Score: 5/10] 86" Macedonian Powered by Lead Acid (6v) 7Amp/h Batteries - Comments: Macedonian was a Lively class 38 gun frigate of the Royal Navy built in 1810. She fought and was captured by the American frigate United States in October of 1812, and taken into the US Navy where she served until 1829. This model is 1:36 (1"= 3'), built of white pine over 3/8" CDX plywood forms, covered with one layer of 4oz glass cloth outside and coated with poly resin inside. It will depict the ship as she was in 1812, before being re-rigged to American standards. Estimated specs: Beam: 13-1/2" Length of the hull: 59" Length over the rig: 85-3/4" Width over the rig: 36" ~ Main yard w/o stuns'l booms. Length on deck: 55" Draft: 6.7" w/o ballast keel, 10.2" w/ballast keel. Height bottom of keel to main truck, without ballast keel: 60.8", with ballast keel: 64.3"

Wherry hull in GRP by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 22 days ago
Haha, gotta get the lady wife going at her machine yet, Chris. She has her own bit of the workshop, just in case.She has a modern-ish machine and an ancient German foot operated one in an oak veneered case to choose from. But Cambric is looking the most favourable fabric. Wherries and Waterways I have, but Wendish Lands has evaded me. kmb, the Wherry's format is very similar to the American cat boat. They, too, work very well. Hydrodynamically, I have no idea why they work or why they shouldn't, but clearly they do and very well. I free sailed my old one and it went very well until a gust blew it over and I realised the deck had been glued with flour paste! Everything sprang and it started to slowly sink. I paid some kid 50p to wade out and get it. His mother wasn't too pleased as he didn't take his new shoes off! Happy days in Southchurch Park, eh? I will remember to use a fin keel for it! Martin

Sea Scout 'Jessica' Sea Trial - at last! by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 23 days ago
Part 1. Ideal conditions; nearly 30°C, cool Bier at hand😜 Sea Scout built by Dad in the early sixties with a Taycol Target and 6V lead acid wet cells (very wet😡). Renovated and dragged into the 21st century over the last several months 😉 See Build Blog 'Sea Scout 'Jessica'' for details! Motor: Propdrive 2830, 1000kV, 30mm 3 blade Raboesch prop. Quicrun 16BL30 (30A) ESC with BEC. Tested with 3 battery types, all started with 99% measured capacity- 1. NiMh 4.2Ah 7.2V, nom. 408gm. Result: Speed sedate (OK 😉scale river cruising!) No planing. Max current: 3.6A End status V / capacity left: At end of short run ca 3 mins. 7.78V 99%. 2. 2S LiPo 4.0Ah 7.4V nom. 257gm. Result: Speed still sedate but due to lower batt weight at least the forefoot came out of the wet stuff! Max current: 4.1A End status V / capacity left: At end of short run ca 3 mins. 8.25V 93%. 3. 3S LiPo 4.0Ah 11.1V nom. 315gm. Result: Now we're getting somewhere!!😁 Good speed, manoeuvrability and planing 😊 Max current: 7.5A End status: 11.95V 74% after several long runs, ca 20 mins total. Estimated (extrapolated) endurance on a 4Ah LiPo around one hour - mostly 'full bore' - 'Pedal to the metal man' 😊 See also: https://youtu.be/oMUlSOaAREM The competition! https://youtu.be/zPgYicA0yGw Final run. (Beer was getting warm😁) Cap'ns log entry: Boat dead-weight w/o battery: 1.8kg. Spray rails to be added!😲 Slight list to port to be trimmed. Rudder servo to be reversed!!😲 Keel protection to be added: some scratches and flaking from stony sloping shore 🤔 Summary: much as expected👍 Forget anything less than 3S. Anyone want to buy a batch (4) of new 2S 4Ah 45C Lipos? 'One careful owner'! Happy boating people, Cheers Doug 😎 PS Many thanks to Camera girl Gisela 👍 Recorded in 1080p HD.

NAXOS - Fishing Boat by onetenor Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 24 days ago
Obechi or Lime for the keel/keelson and skeg.

NAXOS - Fishing Boat by hecrowell Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 24 days ago
Hi Zdneck Just looking at that build of the NAXOS. Had a good look at all of the images and from what I can see, the frames/Keel does not seem to be made from plywood. It looks solid like maybe basswood or similar. Can you give me any pointers on the type of wood best for framing? I would think that even though Ply may be stronger, it will be quite hard to fair when applying planking. Only my thoughts.

Emma C. Berry Conversion by carpemoment Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 28 days ago
Decided to sail her maiden voyage in a more controlled environment -- our condo pool. Rudder worked fine. Lines for sails got fouled up in the winch quickly. Wind was very light. A lot of sideways movement so I will have to increase the keel. I expected that but was hoping that it would be okay for pleasure cruising but there is clearly not enough underwater resistance to gain much control. With the lines fouled, a sudden 30 foot wave took her over and she turtled. BUT she didn't sink and she was a beauty while it lasted. Funny thing is my maiden cruise in my 14' Cyclone ended with capsizing for a similar reason. Only difference is it had been awhile since I had sailed and I forgot to let off the throttle when the wind picked up and a 100' wave took me over. Recovery with my Emma was much less challenging than with my Cyclone. 😀😉⛵️

Vanity, Victorian Cutter by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 30 days ago
Thanks, I used to make top end model furniture for the Home Miniaturists. It's my way of finding a connection with my cabinet maker Granddad, who was a big model boat fan too, in fact he was a founder member of the Victoria Model Steamboat Club. She is 48x9x11 plus bowsprit. Height of rig is about 4 feet also. And yes the fitting on the keel is a piece of ally box section cut in half so it becomes U section, drilled through at equal spacing for the fin keel. Then the U section is screwed with brass screws and Marineflex sealer/adhesive to the keel, which is all solid hardwood. I did my sums and gave up, so once she was waterproof I put her in my son's fish pond and kept piling stuff in until she floated on her marks. Rigging won't be that heavy, but I made an allowance for it. Once it was floating right it turned out to need 14 1/2lbs. of ballast. BUT, that's inside. On the end of a 15" inch(ish) fin it will be less. I have 2 half bulbs cast by my other son in his back garden from my patterns. They will be bolted to the fin and faired in. Cheers, Martin

Vanity, Victorian Cutter by kmbcsecretary Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 30 days ago
Nice timber work there Westquay, looking forward to seeing the finished yacht the hull looks a similar shape to my bristol pilot cutter. what are the dimensions when complete ? i noticed the fitting on the keel is this for for the lead ballast ? will be watching with great interest.

Sea Queen prop shaft by AndyG009 Lieutenant   Posted: 1 month ago
Obtained a length of Stainless Steel 600 mm long 5 mm diameter (it is slightly greater diameter than the Raboesch bearings), used 400 wet and dry - couple (or three) rubs - check - repeat, actually it took some time but now fits, only one end, as the prop end fits the bearing. Still have to put a thread on it, will take mturpin's advice. I only actually needed a shaft about 60 mm longer than the Raboesch. One thing I forgot to mention is the fact that when I decided to up size to a 5 mm shaft, and the Raboesch maintenance free, is that the outer tube did fit the pre-made hole in the keel but there was no movement for adjustment. Making that hole larger was one of the most difficult bits up to now. Had to make - what I would call a prop shaft hole enlarger - bit of a bodge but it worked.