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The next stage is to assemble and fit the upper and lower chines to the bulkhead formers. Each chine is made from three parts that are step jointed together, the instructions recommend using the plan to ensure correct alignment with a protective transparent paper between, however the cutting accuracy of the parts is such that having checked the alignment over the plan I was confident that assembling and glueing them together on the cutting mat would be OK. The upper chines were assembled first and when set were glued and pinned to the tops of the bulkhead formers with the fronts butting against the K1 keel former at the prow. The lower chines were assembled in the same fashion and when dry are glued and set into the slots in the bulkhead formers. Finally the stern former F7 is added and the whole assembly set aside to dry. The hull is quickly taking shape now and even at this stage is very rigid and yet remarkably light.
[Score: 5/10] 39" US1Meter - Comments: This is a US1Meter class boat that I built with the lendgendary southern Californis boat builder Swede Johnson. His design and molds. Fiberglass hull, carbon fiber rudder, keel, spars and mast. Nice fast boat.
Hi Simon, Glad to help😊 I'm just one of many 'Bin there done that' guys on this site. I have no complaints about the Turnigy motors or ESCs. Not too expensive and seem to work 'as advertised' 👍 When you read the blog you will realise that I did not build the kit (and that I have a nutty sense of humour😁). My Dad built it in the early sixties. I 'simply😲' restored it and upgraded it. Attached pics show the Before and After 😊 The original motor was a Taycol Target field coil motor. I decided to convert that to work with a modern reversible ESC and fit it to an ancient Billing Boats fish cutter that I am slowly restoring and converting from static to working model. Last pic shows the initial 'trial fit' of the motor. The motor restoration / conversion is also described in the Sea Scout blog, as are the materials I used for the restoration. Looking forward to your clips, hope the weather holds up. Whatever you do, however you do it, have fun doing it😁 As my German friends like to say; 'I wish you always a hand's breadth of water under your keel' 😉 Cheers, Doug 😎
Very interested in your experiences with this vessel - love to share more. I am currently scratch building one from the original kit plans but have used plank on frame construction and incorporated a detachable keel. Currently fitting the standing rigging. Photo of my efforts attached
Now Plank on frame really sets my imagination going, I have to say that i am a builder rather than a sailor and get immense pleasure from problem solving and just creating structures. I will be looking for a suitable subject after the Crash Tender which at the moment is taking some time with fiddly bits that don't seem to advance the the overall vision of the project so apologies for the lack of "blog" Any suggestions?
Sailing boats can have a variety of different style keels, so it depends on which type of keel your boat has. Also, just adding weight to the keel will make the boat sit lower in the water, this will make it sluggish, difficult to handle & could cause it to get swamped very easily. If fitted with certain types of keel, it is better to keep the weight as it is & lengthen the keel instead.
Hi Mike. The majority of Phil Smith's Veron designs were around this principle, just as the Aerokits/KeilKraft designs were based on the 'egg crate' method. Both methods are very successful and popular over the years as many modellers will attest, and the hull can be completed really quite quickly. 'Plank on frame' is probably as common if not more and a great deal more time consuming but far better able to reproduce complex hull shapes. Never tried the latter..perhaps one day.
Some pics of a couple of Norfolk Broads sailing yacht classes I have constructed to precise detail externally, which were built on the Broads as holiday hire fleet craft in 1947 and to the present day. One is 1:8 large scale and the other 1:18 scale. The larger scale yacht required a suitable detachable keel bulb for radio control use.
Coming along nicely Robbob. As the saying goes "Don't talk to me about balsa bow blocks" 😆 And yes, you don't have to do those yet lol. I may just follow you with one of these to run alongside my original Veron one from 1966/7. Hope they have them for sale soon . Best wishes, Dave W 😊
With the box assembled and the glue fully cured the next stage is to glue the inner keel parts together and fix it to the underside of the box. The keel consists of four pieces that need to be jointed whilst on a flat surface, the instructions suggest that the parts are best assembled whilst laid over the plan with a transparent protective sheet between to ensure accurate alignment. A gap is left in the keel for the prop shaft and this gap is laminated over by some additional keel pieces on either side. I chose to deviate from the instructions here and fit these pieces after the prop shaft was in place to ensure a snug fit, I have it on order from Model Boat Bits along with the prop and rudder. The assembled keel is glued in place along the centre line of the inverted box and when dry the bulkhead formers can be added. The positions of all the formers are clearly marked on the box and the underside formers are added first followed by the side formers and lastly the bow formers, and the assembly set aside to dry. I’d almost forgotten how easy it is to work with balsa, it takes glue and pins readily and assembling this model is a joy, however, shaping the solid balsa bow blocks to the correct profiles will be an interesting challenge. But I don’t need to do that for a while yet.
BIG changes were made to this boat since I lasted posted pictures of it. Previously the motor was direct drive and mounted forward below the windshield. The CG was to far forward and weight of the model never allowed to boat to plane. That weight caused the motor to over heat even after adding a water jacket. I stripped out the shaft, removed the motor, RC gear, also removed the keel and other materials to bring the weight down. The shaft assembly was shortened, repositioned and epoxied in place. Using a sewing machine bobbin, a pulley was created allowing the motor to be mounted parallel to the shaft. The rudder servo assembly will be placed next and further CG testing in the tub. Too bad our pond is frozen over here in Ontario.
Hi J.Barry, You can use the SLA batteries in any position but if they are laid on their side the weight is not evenly distributed. Most of the weight is in the lower section of the battery (when vertical), so if you lay one sideways in your boat you need to move it so that the weight is even, especially if you put one on the centreline of the boat (say over the keel). You can test this outside of the boat.
Thanks Doug And bear in mind this vessel is 6ft 6" in length and about 12" keel to bulwarks so roughly 13ft x 2ft of plate and rivet effect. Bottom gets saw and the eyesight tires. But hopefully the effect will be worth it
Been glueing up the curved deck beams (one still in the jig) and laying them roughly in place but final position is going to be governed by mast position and hard points for the running and standing rigging most of which I have yet to establish. Most of the keel is done but still needs plenty of sanding to get the foil profile right. So next question is does anyone have knowledge on how to make my own sails. They will not be modern Mylar/scrim types as I am going for a semi vintage look. I've bought some white nylon cloth (about the grade you would make a holdall out of) now I need to learn how the get the right shape into the sail.