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>> Home > Tags > keel

keel
keel
The Building Board by Ianh Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 1 day ago
I made this from a 54" long piece of Melamine shelving. shallow cut a centre ine down the middle 1/16" wide. The board was then marked into 2" squares using a laundry marker. The design concept was from a fuselage jig I had made by SLEC. The holes required for the brackets are M5 with captive ( T nuts) underneath pulled up into the bottom of the board. The red tape down the centre is masking tape ( the high quality stuff) this was to stop the boat glueing itself to the board. As the the keel has a skeg we needed to raise the keel to ensure parallelism I used an Enginerers Marking out block and two doorstops on this.The angles can slide and you then clamp the Bulwarks on I used thirty minute epoxy for this although I would like a longer working time epoxy. Bulwarks 3 and 4 with the motor base was also epoxied together. This was then located on the keey ( Dryfit along with the other bulkheads. A word of advice here use the cabin sides to ensure alignment. Check with a rule and squares before gluing anything.

Must get the skins on before I pull all of my hair out!! by MouldBuilder Captain   Posted: 2 days ago
This build is proving to be much more difficult than I had expected. 😤 I think I started this project thinking that all of the parts were ready to fit and glue. As I went on, it became clear that this is not the case. Due to this, and as detailed in the earlier post, I have had to break down the glue joints of the hull frame, and reposition after deepening some of the assembly slots. I have re-assembled the bulkheads, stringers etc. and then started to fit the side skins. This has proven to be the most difficult task so far. You need six arms. After several failures, removal of all of the fixing tape and then starting again, they finally started to look reasonable. I watched a time lapse video on you tube and he seems to do it fairly easily. Oh well. 🤔 Now that I was happy with the fit of the sides, it was time to start on the bottom skins. I started by trying to form chamfers along the keel centre joints so that they look reasonable. Then I once again applied tape to hold them in position whilst glueing with my other three hands, I wish. This only took two attempts. I must be getting better. I still have most of my hair also. Next, I tried to mount the motors onto the angled bulkhead. The front location was very loose so I made a couple of thin silver steel rings to improve the fit. They work very well. 😊 Next job was to fit and align the prop shafts. I decided to make these solid joints and avoid the use of universal joints. The first motor went straight on with perfect shaft alignment. The second was not so good. After two hours of fiddling with a packer, I finally achieved perfect alignment. Next job was to give good joint strength and make the hull water tight. Rightly or wrongly I use a lot of glue to give that perfect seal. I used epoxy for all of the skin inner joints and Stabilit for the outer seams and joints. I used the Stabilit around the shafts as well which looks a little messy at the moment, but I will tidy all of this up next. I will paint the inner Stabilit with white paint to hide a little. This weekend I will do a water test to ensure it is water tight.😱 I think after that I will fit all of the electrics, servo and speed controller. Then I will spray the hull and the main deck prior to fixing together. I would be interested to know what others think about when to paint, before or after assembly, especialy regarding the hull. Enough for now.🤐 I will try to speed up the build a bit now as I am expecting the new 46" Crash Tender to arrive soon. Wood!!! Love it.😊

Maree III sharpie 10 Rater by steve-d Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 4 days ago
Maree III is a 10 Rater Sharpie design by A Wilcock dating back to 1958. MM plan MM/504. I first built her in 1996 but as with all these things family life got in the way or changed and I stopped taking her out. At some point I must have sold her but I can’t remember how or when. A few weeks back I decided to build something again and found the original plans under the bench so where better to start than there. I also found the MM Plans catalogue which is how I found the first date (Plan ordered 06/08/1996 pencilled in the margin). The original design does not have a bulb keel but I have decided mine will but not with the narrow carbon fin as used on the latest boat designs. She is also not for competition so I plan to include a cabin top for a more ‘scale’ appearance. Must give my thanks early on for the help I have had from David Creed who researched some old plans to find me a suitable design for the bulb keel but with a quite broad fin. As a result I have now made a plug for the bulb and a box in which to make the silicone mould. I have also cut out all the rib moulds so I can start laying up the hull. It is a monocoque design so these are just to build the hull shape. There will then only be a couple of ribs around the keel mount and mast step to add strength in those areas. Been buying materials but it is not easy as the plans have very little info on the sails and rigging.

Cleaning sails, toy yachts, etc.... by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 days ago
Here's the yacht after the first coat of red enamel and the keel sprayed with self etch primer ready for the green later, but it's raining, dammit! Martin

Another toy pond yacht???? by Colin H. Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 days ago
I was thinking of making a mold and casting the lead keel weight (using lead free from a batch of material I got from the fishing shop). Cheers Colin.

Another toy pond yacht???? by Colin H. Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 days ago
Well Martin, the cloth is full of small holes and when I tried to put them on the seams started to give way. Also I think there should be some lead attached to the keel, there are hole in it and a feint shading difference about an inch wide along the bottom edge both sides. Cheers Colin.

Cleaning sails, toy yachts, etc.... by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 5 days ago
My wee red boat after a rub down and a file/sand on the steel keel. This morning I painted the red with HMG enamel and got the green mixed in the same make enamel by my wonderful chap at Kett's Auto Paints. The mast came in two parts, so I did a slight scarf and glued it. When the joint is well set, I'll make a splint and set it in prior to a rub down and a good waxing. The steel (tinplate) parts came with the predictable rust, but with my selection of scrapers and chisels made of broken and worn Swiss files I was able to scrape most of it off back to reasonable shiny steel. The out of shapeness needed only a clout with a cold chisel type of bodywork tool in the right places to restore it to original shape. Loops were filed to lose most of their rust, but not replaced. They'll be Vaselined as a form of anti rust, waterproofing. I have some new 1.3mm cord coming from Caldercraft. I just hope I can remember how it was rigged. I ain't great with knots. The sails were absolutely filthy with some sort of oil based grime, but my dear bride sorted them out with Vanish and a good hand wash. Pics of those tomorrow. I love this stuff.! Martin

Emma C Berry by Mikep Commander   Posted: 5 days ago
Sterling Emma C Berry 49”long 17 pounds with added keel weight.

Viv Smeed's 'Water Baby' by Xtal Apprentice   Posted: 6 days ago
I have a 25" R/C Pond Yacht built to a 1950s designed by Vic Smeed. I'd like to hear from fellow 'Water Baby' owners. One issue of interest is the keel weight which seems a little too heavy so the boat lies a little too low in the water. Has anyone made modifications to the keel? What is the best way to do this and how do you maintain good fore and aft trim?

Bulwark Stays by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 9 days ago
Hi Mike, tedious job🤔 but the build's looking good👍 BTW: by sheer coincidence yesterday i saw a documentary on National Geographic about Commander Robert Peary, an American explorer who claimed to have been the first person to reach the geographic North Pole. Your ship was named after him. "SS Robert E. Peary was a Liberty ship which gained fame during World War II for being built in a shorter time than any other such vessel. Named after, Commander Robert Peary, an American explorer who claimed to have been the first person to reach the geographic North Pole. She was launched on November 12, 1942 just 4 days, 15 hours and 29 minutes after the keel was laid down." https://www.wikiwand.com/en/SS_Robert_E._Peary Pronounced 'Peery' So if you're fitting nameplates .....! Cheers, Doug 😎

welding by lesliebreame Admiral   Posted: 13 days ago
all frames welded to keel.

welding by lesliebreame Admiral   Posted: 14 days ago
Started welding frames to keel.

Bella by vosper Lieutenant   Posted: 18 days ago
[Score: 8/10] 34" Bella - Comments: A very frustrating boat to build. Had to reinforce the keel with a sandwitch of fiberglass, the materials do not look sturdy enough but looks good once finished.

St Canute Planking Help? by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 21 days ago
Hi Richard, Unless you are planning to finish the hull with varnish, to show off the wood, the easiest way is to fit hard balsa or obechi blocks and cut, file and sand to fit. This is the 'way out' I chose on the renovation of my Billing fish cutter. See pics. Pic 1. The mess I started with, Pic 2. Block fitted and shaped, new keel fitted, whole hull then covered inside and out with glass fibre tissue and EzeKote, Pic 3. Preliminary priming prior to final filling (minimal) and sanding, Pic 4. Nearly there 😉 Otherwise you are faced with some tedious steaming, bending and pinning😲 Hope this helps some. Good luck, keep us up to date with progress please👍, Cheers, Doug 😎

bulkheads by reilly4 Admiral   Posted: 1 month ago
The plan at the top of the thread shows a specific Water Tractor tug plan specifically designed for the VS drives, including the large straight keel at the stern. I suggest Green72West should either use VS drives or use another type of hull for Schottel drives.