Cookies used in this website are gluten free, wheat free and dairy free. By using this website you agree to our use of cookies. More Info
Guest
Login Below
Join Us On Social Media!
   
Get The Model Boats App!
Apple App Store
Android app on Google Play


Help Support This Website
£
or enter custom amount

(Non Contributor)

Help support this free
website and donate.



£285 a year is needed to keep the website and apps online. Please consider donating £5 or more to help towards these fees.
All donations are securely managed through PayPal. Amounts donated are not published online.

Many thanks for your kind support.

Model Boats Website Team


Donation History
November 2017: 8 people
October 2017: 9 people
September 2017: 15 people
August 2017: 10 people
July 2017: 16 people
June 2017: 8 people
May 2017: 8 people
April 2017: 23 people
March 2017: 3 people


Unique Visitors This Month

Website Members

Terms and Conditions
Privacy Policy
Advertising
Contact


Model Boats Website
Active Users (4)
Login or Register
To Remove This Ad
Login or Register
To Remove This Ad
>> Home > Tags > keel

keel
keel
Some more hull sheeting and keel by Skydive130 Admiral   Posted: 2 days ago
This morning has seen an hour or so adding some more hull sheeting, tidying up the hole for the prop shaft and making the keel. Next decision is whether to add the keel prior to glass clothing the hull or after? My thinking is add before clothing, also fitting the prop shaft, done balsa infil between the 2 keep parts then glass cloth the whole hull for a good neat strong finish. Will add some more sheeting later once this lot has set and has been trimmed to accept next pieces.

semi disaster by marky Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 days ago
Came home today to what looked like a disaster but after a few well chosen words it wasn't as bad as first thought for some reason known only to the glue one side of the hull timbers had come off the ribs, the same glue was used on all the planks working from the keel up, alternating sides ,anyway a liberal application of gorilla glue at the effected area and some ratchet straps seem to have done the trick will leave the straps on for 24 hours and hope for the best.👍

MV TEAKWOOD by RHBaker Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 days ago
Thinking back over this part of the project, felt it might be of interest to others considering modifying a hull to summarize my experiences: 1) Cutting and modifying a hull to a different profile seems intimidating, but using planning then care, using a simple selection of workshop tools and adhesives, it is quite within the skill of the average modeler. 2) This is the second proprietary glass-fibre hull I have used. Both required a “spindle” of bulkheads and longitudinal stringers to hold the hull rigid and to which can also be fastened the electrical / mechanical equipment needed for the model. 3) Have tried two approaches for the spindle. The first was to totally assemble it off the hull, get it as rigid as possible, fit it into the hull and epoxy into place. The second was to fit the keel reinforcement to the hull then epoxy the bulkheads and remainder of the spindle to it. That spindle remained relatively flexible until finally installed. 4) On reflection, think it is best to fully assemble the spindle, taking care to get it true and then fit it to the hull. The relatively flexible hull can then be adjusted to fit the more rigid spindle and kept true. 5) Used the relatively flexible spindle arrangement on the Teakwood and have spent many hours getting the bulwarks and deck frames leveled and lined up satisfactorily. The more rigid spindle would have helped mitigate this by ensuring the frame was accurate before trying to adapt it to the hull. Have now finished all the modifications needed to the hull and the result shows that this type of transformation can be successfully completed..

Keel formers and prop tube placement by marky Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 days ago
glad to see that your little helper has all his safety gear on and the force is with him.👍cheers Marky

Keel formers and prop tube placement by Skydive130 Admiral   Posted: 4 days ago
Had a pleasant morning measuring and cutting the start of the keel formers and the prop shaft formers (is that what they call a stuffing box?). Looking more like a boat instead of a box after this early stage! Next to do is Finnish the hull formers bottom and sides followed by the chimes before hull sheeting starts.

Motor problem by RichardSReade Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 5 days ago
Thanks chaps at a rough estimate and using the keel as the straight edge it is about correct for the electric motor. new cables and connectors along with a couple of mini servo's, arriving tomorrow, which I intend to rig up to operate some micro switches for lights and the like, cheaper than pukka switches. Jarvo and pmdevlin, when I can get the boat to water I will take some photo's and maybe a video with the battery's in the rudder compartment and also in the compartment just rear of the motor to see what you both think.

TRIUMPH (CG-52301) by circle43nautical Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 6 days ago
[Score: 8/10] 52"/5700g TRIUMPH (CG-52301) Capable of 12mph and a runtime of 60mins Direct Drive to a 775 JOHNSON-TYPE FAN-COOLED 6-12V (5 Blade) Powered by NiMH (8.4v) 3Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through DIMART 320A FAN-COOLED ESC - Comments: ON THE WAYS: BARRACUDA RC BOATS 1:12 USCG 52' TYPE F WOODEN MOTOR LIFEBOAT; NAMED "TRIUMPH" (CG-52301), IN HONOR OF THE RESCUE CRAFT LOST IN JAN 1961 DURING RESCUE ATTEMPT WITH LOSS OF ALL HANDS. THIS KIT IS ONE OF THREE IN EXISTENCE, THE OTHER TWO BEING BUILT BY A GENTLEMAN IN THE PACIFIC NORTHWEST (ONE FOR PERSONAL, THE OTHER FOR A MUSEUM. SHE IS MAINLY LASER CUT BALTIC BIRCH PLYWOOD; THE FALSE KEEL 19MM THICK, RIBS 5.5MM, DECK AND HULL & CABINS 3MM. THE HULL WILL BE COVERED AND REINFORCED WITH POLYESTER FABRIC AND MINWAX POLYURETHANE. THE DECK WILL BE COVERED BY 1/8" BASSWOOD SCRIBED SHEATHING AND THE FANTAIL SEMICIRCLE ABOVE THE STERN POST WILL BE 1/16". FINISH WITH A LIGHT MAHOGANY DECK COAMING. HANDMADE WOODEN RUDDER ON A 3/8" POST STEERED BY A SAIL WINCH SERVO & CABLE SYSTEM, RABOESCH 75MM 5-BLADE BRASS WHEEL TURNED BY A 4MM S/S SHAFT. MOST DECK FITTINGS AND HOUSINGS ARE HANDMADE WHENEVER POSSIBLE AND WOOD REMAINS NATURAL WHEN DETAIL ALLOWS IT, AS I DON'T ENJOY PAINTING OVER NATURAL GRAIN. I LOVE TO REPURPOSE THE LEFTOVER LUMBER FROM KIT TEMPLATES, LORD KNOWS I HAVE PLENTY OF IT. OH WELL, THE TEMP OUTSIDE IS GONNA DELAY ANY PAINTING, ANYWAY.

Motor problem by jarvo Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 6 days ago
Hi Richard, the angle is steep to allow the starting flywheel of an i/c motor to clear the keel. This angle was quite steep, but with the motor's power it allowed the hull to run quite fast. Electric motors are a lot smaller so a lower angle of about 15 degrees, will work well, this will give more forward thrust without forcing the bows down wasting power, lifting the stern upwards in the water. Mark

International Model Boat Show by ChrisF Petty Officer   Posted: 8 days ago
Forgot to mention that the Record scroll saw has a 5 year guarantee which is very good. Also went yesterday and got the other bits and pieces I need and a bigger Permagrit for sanding the keel and chines to shape. As said was very good and some fantastic builds.

An experiment with foam board by hecrowell Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 10 days ago
I am going to try an experiment with foam board similar to a build that I ran across on the internet. It consists of making the keel and bulkheads with 1/4" foam board or a double thickness if it is thinner. The board that I have will require two thicknesses. If all else fails, it will proof my plans that they are readonably accurate. The inner gunwales and the sheer clamps will be clear pine. Trace the outline of the part, cut out and stick with adhesive spray onto foamboard and cut out. Kere is the partial keel which I labelled "K1". Will post pictures as I progress.

Totnes Castle 1894 by hammer Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 10 days ago
Right I better get up to date. Laid the keel fitted the box for the engine room & a temporary plank at deck level. The engine room scale size as I hope to fit out the saloons. The poly foam cut out 2 for each section, the silver backing removed except for one side. Each pair is then stuck together & reduced to fit between the stations. The centres cut out to help remove all later. Having stuck this all together I will be knocking off the lumps until the silver backing at the stations shows. I hope this makes sense?

Huntress - Rudder by AndyG009 Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 11 days ago
A Fairey Huntress has a Rudder system where the Rudder, and the Rudder 'post' are outside the Hull, located on the transom. With the operating arm going into the hull. Has anyone had experience of this sort of set up on a model ? I know that the normal way round it is to fit a Rudder in the usually way, i.e. through a tube located through the keel.

huntsman plan by ChrisF Petty Officer   Posted: 11 days ago
Yes, you can get a copy of the original drawings and model lines but you will still have to draw up all the bulkheads, keel etc. and decide on how you are going to construct the superstructure. Fine if you can do it, but if you just want to get on with building it, get the plans already available.

Full Size Plans - NAXOS by hecrowell Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 14 days ago
QUESTION: On the bottom end of the rudder, there seems to me a curved bit of material with one end I suppose supporting the rudder and the other end extending into the keel and keelson. Looks to be item 30 maybe? Can anyone enlighten me on that arrangement?

NAXOS - Fishing Boat by Zdenek Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 15 days ago
And one more: http://www.shipmodell.com/index_files/0PLAN4A.html It is possible to download the plan and some lictures from the build. There are also frames, the keel and some parts, re-drawn so that you can print them on A4. It is a little unusual way of downloading but it is possible.