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>> Home > Tags > kit

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Gelyce class "Islay" by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 7 hours ago
Hi, many years ago I was approached by the man who ran the Chateau Margot delicious wine factory to make a model of Water Pipit, one of the smaller Gelyce class yacht tenders built by Camper and Nicholson. They di some at 50 foot and a few at 38 foot. Currently out there and nicely restored is Islay, which I think may be Water Pipet in a later itteration, since it was once restored and subsequently neglected by Ugo Baravalle, at the time Italy's 5th richest man and a gent who actually offered to show me round his vast collection on Elba very graciously. I never heard from the wine mazn again and so couldn't tap him for a deposit to finance the trip to Italy. Project cancelled, Baravalle apologised to, life went on. Now, I find I would rather like to do the model for myself, with all the lovely golden interior work. To do this, the construction would have to be more like the original steamed timbers and double diagonal planking, rather than my usual 3mm ply bulkheads. So, my question is...has anyone ever built a hull in this way, as a shell, more than a glorified Aerokits/Veron kit? I haven't, so I'm looking for any hints, tricks, warnings you may have. Here's the boat. You can see the appeal. Cheers, Martin

Taycol supermarine, to which prop. by Colin H. Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 22 hours ago
As I intend to fit my supermarine, after Doug has finished his magic, into a vintage Aerokits Sea Commander, what prop would be best, if I am using a 12v 7ah sla battery. I have available 2.5 inch 4 blade brass prop, 2 inch 3 blade brass, and various plastic 2 or 3 bade, in 30-35-40&45mm. Which would be the correct one to use. Any thoughts would be much appreciated, cheers Colin.

EarlyVosper M.T.B by Simplas by boaty Captain   Posted: 1 day ago
Hi Onetenor Fuji 15 was a good glow engine which I don't think it is manufactured any more. Aero version max B.H.P was just below .40 when tested. If it was in a model aircraft it would have been around .20 to .25 depending on prop size which was good then for a small capacity glowplug . Marine versions when on the water put out a little less and the water cooled jacket was never as efficient as the finned cylinder jacket of the aero version. My two Aerokits boats, the Sea Commander and the Crash Tender are powered by single Speed 600 motors running on either 8.4 or 9.6 volt Ni Mh batteries. Performance is equal to that of marine diesel power such as the 2.46 Ed Racer and D.C 2.46 Rapier, the latter I used to watch in the fast steering events in the early 1960s at Fleetwood and Coronation Park in Crosby just outside Liverpool. Taycol powered versions would be obviously slower due to the additional weight were far more reliable and you did not have to put up with injuries from excessive use of a starting cord with kids watching and "extracting the urine" shouting "why wont it go mister". Boaty

Bending thin plywood by onetenor Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 days ago
A hair dryer/heat gun played on one side of the ply while bending it to the hot side. bend it a little more than needed and hold in that position or strap it in position round a tin till cool. Oh yes wear gloves to save your fingers.👍 Or get some flexi ply. it is made easily bendable in one direction. Can be rolled very tightly. used in cabinetry in kitchens etc for boxing in curves.👍

EarlyVosper M.T.B by Simplas by boaty Captain   Posted: 2 days ago
Found on E Bay but sold in June of this year, a 42 inch kit of a Simplas Marine Construction Vosper M.T.B. It would appear that there are not many about now. I built one in 1972 and the kit contained a fibreglass hull with all fittings including the guns being in cast metal. Deck and superstructure were plywood and the boat was a model of an early Vosper as it had a very narrow beam and torpedo tubes were towards the stern. I fitted a DC Sabre 1.5cc diesel but had to add a lot of ballast which resulted in a sharp drop in performance. This was solved by replacing the Sabre with a Fuji 15 marine version glowplug engine . The boat was free running and as I was on an apprentice engineers pay and could not afford r.c.as I was having to support an ageing Mini. This was my transport from Ellesmere Port to the boating lake in New Brighton. If I had bought a Taycol Supermarine motor it would have solved all my problems as the battery would have been the ballast. Boaty 😁

lastest progress by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 days ago
My pleasure TJ, get well soon👍 But as an ex Pat living in Germany for 30 odd years and having worked on several types of Fast Patrol Boats / Fast Attack Craft your spelling of Schnellboot is still making my hair stand on end! 🤔 BTW: DON'T cut the switch wires on the ESCs or you won't be able to turn them on! Cut the red wires in the 3 wire cables from the ESCs to the RX. Cheers, Doug 😎 BTW 2: boat looks good, nice work👍 I have a couple of 1/72 kits for E-Boat / S-Boot, hope mine turns out as well as yours! 😉

Renovating my Aerokits Patrol Torpedo Boat. by boaty Captain   Posted: 4 days ago
I had an MFA Spearfish in the mid 1990s and it was powered by an MFA Marlin or should I say underpowered. The Marlin was a good motor but was not really suitable for fast craft such as a powerboat or fast service launch like an M.T.B. I understand that MFA did an 850 which was for fast scale type models but in the end I put an Irvine 25 I.C in the Spearfish. At the time there was a motor called a Buhler which I think was Swiss . I used one😁 in my Perkassa running on nicads which performed very well. For the Aerokits P.T boat there are a lot of suitable brushless motors around and running on lipos will certainly give you all the speed you want.😁 Boaty

Life Rings by mturpin013 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 days ago
The white metal fittings supplied with the kit are somewhat lacking in detail and some are overweight to say the least. I decided to produce some life rings to my specification I had tried to find suitable replacements on the web without success. So how to produce the ring part. I first tried with plywood but the finish achievable was not acceptable (can be seen in the pictures) so I then decided to use Bamboo (Ikea phone stand) for those who have followed from the start the same material as the grating on the foam tanks. First I cut some rough circles out of 10mm bamboo sheet and drilled a 10mm hole so it can be mounted on a 10mm screw mandrel. This allows the piece to machined on one side and then reversed and machined on the other side. The tool I used was ground with a 22 mm radius to produce the shape on one side of the ring and then when reversed and machined again the tool actually “parts off” the ring on the inner diameter leaving the ring free on the now remaining peg, the finish on the bamboo was good enough without any further sanding. The next step was to put a slot in the OD at 90degree intervals to hold the “rope” in position while the rope is bound in four places. The easiest way was to make a jig to hold the ring and to keep the rope in place while it’s glued into ring, it can then be removed and bound in four places each turn being super glued to keep it in place. Next job is to give a coat of sanding sealer that stiffens the rope and seals the wood. The rings are theoretically held to the cabin roof with clamp type brackets so again to ensure consistency I machined a piece with a suitable profile. I then cut radial slices to create individual brackets. The rings will actually be fastened to the cabin roof with 2 x 8BA bolts this is to enable them to be removed for painting of both the ring and the roof. At a later painting stage, I will be giving them two coats of grey primer and three coats of white, then hand painting the rope loops with red paint. The finished rings are much lighter and hopefully look more realistic.

Taycol Supemarine Resurrection by boaty Captain   Posted: 4 days ago
Interesting restoration project . Great fan of Taycols myself though its some 24 years since I had one. The motors themselves are bristling with character as you can see the armature rotating and you do get the smell of something electrical along with it. Taycols go further than being just power units as they are good ballast due to their weight. Unfortunately through progress they have been replaced by little tin cans and brushless devices. Hopefully someday a person or a company will put them back in production due to the number of retro boat kits now being sold. Boaty

Pride of Hythe by jfstoker Lieutenant   Posted: 5 days ago
Built from a excellent Linkspan kit

Paddle tug Glasgow. by rolfman2000 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 6 days ago
Hi Doug. I've actually done that, which is why I asked on here. There are no pics of the paddles in diagram form that I can use to compare mine to. Someone must have an old set maybe from years ago. I even thought of writing to Graupner themselves, as it's a classic kit, but they went broke a few years ago. So now I don't know if the new owners will have the records. Anyway, I'll give it a go. Thanks again Doug. Cheers, Dave 😊

Gypsy Sloop Jr. by Popeyepapa Seaman   Posted: 9 days ago
When I was in high school back in 1957 I built a kit of the Comet Gypsy Sloop Jr. In 2016 I found the drawings on-line for the Gypsy Jr. The boat was entered in woodworking class at our county fair where it received a blue ribbon. It has a working wheel that turns the rudder. Now I have under construction a 32 inch version that I would like to radio control. I'm not too sure how to set up or what type of servo to install.

Boaty P.T 109 by BOATSHED Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 10 days ago
Dear oldtimer, If you have the patience to build a plastic model and the decide to fit it out and use RC in it. Then I am sure you would be able to build a model from wood. You can buy a wooden boat kit and if you have been able to read and do what the instructions say in your plastic kit then the wooden one would be no harder. You should never put yourself down and have belief in yourself and do it. Im sure you could.

Boat lifting eyes by mturpin013 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 10 days ago
Boat lifting eyes As has been said by others the boat lifting eyes are a small detail but an important one, somehow when detailing gets in your head its difficult not to seek it out. Anyway, there are six eyes three on each side, which I presume, are for lifting the boat out of the water, unfortunately there isn’t any detail on size so it’s down to “builders eye”. I made the six in a batch, that’s to say I first made six identical pieces 10.5mm x 20.5mm x 2mm thick and drilled the hole in each then the six pieces fastened together with an M4 screw and then machined together to ensure uniformity and ease of production. I then skimmed them to final size 10 x 20 followed by milling the concave and convex radii on the top. I intend to sink the eye into the deck and secure using a brass pin sideways into the gunwhale stringers and epoxied into position. To ease fitting I made a small jig, which will allow a 2mm slot to be cut in the exact position on the deck along with a drilled hole at 90 degrees. Two small grub screws fasten the jig to the gunwale stringers while the slot and holes are machined. After all the slots had been prepared I then made all the foot rails that run along the edge of the deck from bow to stern, the first set I used the obeche supplied in the kit, however as they are in a place that could get knocked I decided to rework then in walnut. Finally I pre drilled all the foot rails ready for temporary pinning. Having all the components ready it is time to assemble with epoxy resin, using sparingly and making sure not to get any on the visible part of the brass lifting eyes and using pins to hold in position while curing. PS sorry about some of the picture quality but I didn't check them until after assembly

Italeri P.T 109 by boaty Captain   Posted: 10 days ago
I bought an Italeri PT109 kit in 2011. It took 4 months to build as I had other projects on at the time. I notices the high quality of the parts, especially the hull and the actual paint finish was very easy due to it being plastic and got the nearest colour match by using Humbrol spray acrylic of Grass Green with Regency Red acrylic for the waterline and below. Difficult decision was as to build as a triple screw to maintain scale or go for the single screw. I eventually went for the latter with just one rudder. Power was by a 480 brushed flight motor with a 30 amp esc which was a bit over the top as power was by a 2200mAh 2S Lipo but the esc was the only one they had in the shop. Getting the motor installed was very straight forward as it was done before the deck was fitted but I had to make the aft cabin detachable for access to taking the battery in and out and also lubricating the propshaft .The boat performed well at scale speed but got slightly out of shape when full power was applied, appearing more as a fast electric. Overall the boat was ideal for smaller ponds (providing it was not running flat out). The outcome was a well detailed model that appeared like the real thing on the water but I would not recommend sailing it in rough conditions.. Boaty😁