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>> Home > Tags > lathe

Cabin detail part 3 (instrument panels) by robbob Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 15 days ago
'tis true but I just provided drawings to my brother...him with the lathe 😁

Cabin detail part 5 speed control & compass by BOATSHED Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 15 days ago
When you look at the last picture it could almost be a full size cabin control panel. Beautiful bit of work there. I just wish I had the tools to do all that turning on a lathe. Awesome.

Cabin detail part 3 (instrument panels) by Joe727 Captain   Posted: 16 days ago
Hello, I think I read in one of your posts that you said you were a better builder than skipper, I always say that about myself. I enjoy sailing at the pond but then look forward getting back home to continue building. Your work is exceptional and I enjoy seeing you make everything. Wish I had a lathe like yours but have done without for years as they are beyond my budget. Keep the good work! Joe

Plumbing the water-cooling for the ESC by robbob Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 24 days ago
The HobbyKing ESC I’m using has the facility for water cooling and as it will be in an enclosed location without any free ventilation it seems sensible to utilise this feature. To keep the water circuit as short as possible I will put the pickup just behind the propeller and the exhaust on the stern but as the boat has a bulkhead just in front of the stern skin I need to make an access hole through it to allow me to secure the nut on the stern skin. I made a hole through the bulkhead large enough to get a socket on the nut and reinforced the hole with a ply plate, similarly I reinforced the inside of the stern skin where the outlet passes through it. When I was happy that the arrangement worked and I could attach the hoses and securing clips easily I glued and pinned the stern skin to the hull. The water pickup is a standard one that is readily available but it’s supplied with overly large and ugly fixing nuts, the inside one is of no consequence but I thought that the outer one needed smartening up so I put it on a threaded rod and locked it in place with another nut and put that into the chuck of a drill and used a file to re-shape the nut to a pleasing taper….who needs a lathe......😜 I had to reduce the height of the inner keel former as the pickup tube is not long enough to get a good fixing with the internal nut, as the inner keel is balsa I fitted a ply reinforcing plate to spread the load. The last ‘photo shows the location of the ESC, main battery fuse and receiver. The hoses will be secured to the ESC with spring clips throughout. I found that the silicone tube I use tends to kink rather easily if the radius of a bend is too small and I found it necessary to form a tight spring coil around the piece that loops the water back through the ESC to prevent this happening.

flue by GaryLCoupland Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 1 month ago
Hi Rick, photo as promised and a rough idea of my solution for the chimney problem, I think this needs a bit more work as yet? Question, do you have access to a lathe? Regards Gary.

flue by GaryLCoupland Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 1 month ago
Hi Rick I favour aluminium tubing as you can buy any diameter you want, a 12" length is not expensive, then using milliput putty mould a few rings of putty around it say top, bottom and an inch from the top, square them up on a lathe then you can fix the four stays into the putty, which looks just like the real thing in miniature. Regards, Gary. (I'll bung you a photo.)

Smoke generator by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi Rowen, Looks very similar to what I fitted to my Sea Scout. I bought it from Krick here in Germany. They ship round the world and very fast👍😉 Copes with my Propdrive 1000kV on a 3S very well 😊 You can buy the basic coupler and inserts for various motor/prop shaft diameters separately to mix and match as required. Copes with the power, is silent and slop free 😊 Cheers, Doug 😎 PS I turned up a rigid alu coupling in a few minutes on the lathe to do the setting up and alignment, much much quicker than faffing about with the 3D printer. Yes I do have one, but seldom used. The lathe and miller are quicker for one-offs.

Boat shaft connectors (which stuffs to use and which is good) by DodgyGeezer Lieutenant   Posted: 2 months ago
I'm not sure what you mean by 'earthquakes' - do you mean there was lots of vibration? The prop-shaft and the motor shaft should be aligned as precisely as you can manage. Though a universal joint will accept some misalignment, you should aim to get things so precise that there is no need for a joint! That tube looks rather thin. I use tube which is 10-12mm in OD, with about 3-4 mm thick walls. You are correct that I 'make the shafts larger' by putting little knurled knobs made from aluminium bar on them. If you do not have a lathe, you can buy similar couplings like this:

Mini lathe by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Aha! You mean the 'Lego Lathe'!! Lotsa blocks you can shove together to make a lathe or milling machine or .... Agree about the motor, not big enough or man enough for the job. I bought one at an exhibition some years ago, it's buried in the workshop somewhere.😲 Nowadays I mostly use my little Proxxon FD150/E. Just used it to make some parts for Colin's Taycol Supermarine renovation. Simple uncomplicated machine, good for small parts. Cheers, Doug 😎

Mini lathe by sidley70 Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 2 months ago
Greetings from Australia. Hi The only Mini Metal lathe to buy is the UNIMAT. It is made in Austria.I have had one for years and love it. It has 1 downside, You can only use it for about 8 minutes before the motor gets hot and you have to let it cool down. I use a small fan blowing on the motor and I can use it for about 20minutes. They may have corrected this since i bought mine. You also have to remove the belt when letting it cool down or the belt will break.I had a TAIG but did not like it. Hope this info helps. Regards Sid

Mini lathe by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Unless you can get something second hand, the only new small lathe worth a toss is the Peatol (Taig) from Harborne in Brum. Cheap, but very well made. You have to buy the tailstock, oddly, but it's still very inexpensive. I have had mine for over 30 years and it is as good as new. My son got one s/h off ebay with every attachment, on a base, with a book and it was £200. Martin

Mini lathe by mturpin013 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
This is simply a revolving drill doesn't have any longitudinal or cross feed travelling tool post and at best its only good for wood turning of very small diameter pieces of wood or polishing small parts. I don't think it suits your requirements. Colin you beat me to it by 60 seconds

Mini lathe by Colin H. Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Forget it, it's just a little freehand turning lathe for hobby work in soft wood and other soft materials. Meant for craft jewellery and beading work. Look for something that has a traversing tool post with crosswise adjustment. I'm lucky enough to have my late father's Unimat with a screw cutting adapter as well as a milling attachment, for larger work I have a Chester universal combination lathe/milling machine. Look in local auctions, as they are often in our local auctions in Herefordshire. Happy hunting, cheers Colin.

Mini lathe by onetenor Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi y'all.I was thinking of getting one of these-- Is Raitool a good make. Seem to be. Has anyone got one Or similar? Can it be used for steel and screw cutting (with the right accessories of course)? All ideas welcome.

Vosper by Biscuit Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 3 months ago
[Score: 10/10] 42" Vosper Single Propellor (3 Blade 50mm) Geared to a Os 40 fourstroke (3 Blade) - Comments: I always liked the sound of a fourstroke engine so I thought I would replace the brushless motor in this boat with an aircraft Os 40fs which I converted with a water cooling jacket that I turned up on my lathe. I also made a reverse gearbox with a clutch, the gearbox is operated by a servo and works well, I also fitted a water pump so could still cool the engine while ticking over stationary, boat has been weathered and is fitted with lights and a searchlight that swivels around operated by another servo, there is also a cooling fan above the engine just to help keep things cool.