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>> Home > Tags > lead acid

lead acid
lead acid
54" long Cervia tug. by tysonyoung Petty Officer   Posted: 1 month ago
My Cervia was ready built. I have replaced the Electric motor with a large servo motor (Brushed) .Direct drive and being heavy helps with ballasting. lead acid gel cells are power source. Motor rated voltage24 v but run it on 12v . low rev high torque no load current 1 amp. Shaft diameter 0.5 in. Gives some idea of power out. Being servo motor (ex computer drive 30 years old) well balanced no vibration. Photo near shore shows power of motor.

HMS Bulldog by ikseno99 Petty Officer   Posted: 2 months ago
[Score: 8/10] 48"/12000g HMS Bulldog Capable of 4mph and a runtime of 120mins Twin Propellors (3 Blade 40mm) Direct Drive Powered by Lead Acid (6v) 12Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through Action Electronics P94 ESC - Comments: Metcalfe Kit at 1/48 She is has fine lines and looks well on the water. She handles reasonably well with independent control on each shaft given her length and the amount of superstructure too. She has direct drive on each shaft and need a load of ballast in the stern to keep the props well in the water otherwise she will capitate quite dramatically Running 2 x 12 Amp Hour lead acids she has a great run time, helped by her hull lines, she will carry her way for quite a distance, so yo need to keep your wits about you on a busy pond! She is an ongoing project / refit with new davits and ships boats to be added.

Graupner Jumbo 540 motors by CB90 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
I think it would be worth the risk of running the DC Motors at 7.2v (NiMh) or second choise 7.4v (Lipo) and get rid of the 6v lead acid battery. The chance of damaging the motor is limited, the battery packs will be lighter than an equivalent lead acid, but will need to by a charger as well. Always put a fuse in line rated 5 amps below that of the ESC. Or buy two higher voltage motor? only £6.99 each plus P&P link copy and paste into browser address:- https://howesmodels.co.uk/product/graupner-speed-600-8-4v-mo...

Range Safety Launch? by CB90 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Some Pictures for reference a RAF 43ft Range Safety Launch pennant '1640' and '1651' were built by 'Thornycroft' at Hampton in 1955. The Model Looks good, adding some detail and fittings will make it look great, bear in mind its a heavy boat, so you may wish to think about brushless motors and Lipo batteries, they will be a lot lighter and smaller than the 800 brushed, and lead acid batteries but you need to get advice before going down that road.

Which battery? by Brianaro Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 3 months ago
Thank you for that, it has helped a lot. I have liPo in another fast boat and do worry about the safety, I keep and charge it in a fire proof bag. I will need weight at the front of the boat so Lead Acid will probably assist. The build is good fun. Thanks again

Which battery? by marlina2 Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 3 months ago
I tend to use LiPo's but they can be temperamental and need the correct charger. They are smaller and lighter than NiMH and give you a much greater output. NiMH are similar in size to LiPo but are heavier and will not have the same sort of power available. Lead acid are the easiest to use in terms of charging but are much heavier and larger then the other 2 types but tend to be cheaper. Lead acid are a good option if you need the ballast or are not limited on physical size. Cost is also a consideration a good quality charger can be an hefty investment but will serve you well and if you buy the correct type will charge/discharge any battery type that you have. I have heard horror stories about LiPo's bursting into flames, which my son did with his RC car. this was down to him not understanding this type of battery. I have not had good results in terms of endurance with NiMh but Lipo's if correctly selected will last much longer, a word of warning here though, they will stop working suddenly with no indication like running slow etc so if using LiPo's you will, need an alarm on each battery. Lead acid is much easier to in terms of Voltage either 6 or 12v with real problems when connecting them in series or parallel for use or charging, a little harder with the other two types but not impossible. This has probably confused you even more but I am sure you will come the correct battery. I have to confess I have an interest in this build as I intend it to be my next project👍

Which battery? by Brianaro Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 3 months ago
I have a 1:16 Taymar lifeboat with twin Graupner 600 motors. Which batteries, Lead Acid or NiMH. Can anyone help please, what is the benefit of one over the other?

Which motor by Helineil Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 3 months ago
Could someone advise on which motor to use in a smit amsterdam tug of approx 40 ins long with a 4 blade 3 ins dia. Prop and 4 mm. shaft, I want to run on 12v sealed lead acid battery. I am not going to tow anything but would still like a bit of power. Cheers. Neil.

Longer run time by Haverlock Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
Your question does not have simple answers have you used a watt meter to see the current your motor is drawing at full throttle? With any installation its a good idea to do that test since its a good way to match motor and prop. LiPo batteries have a better current delivery than lead acid BUT you do need to be careful about end voltages so as not to damage the battery. Many ESC have a voltage cut off built in to protect LiPo batteries it may be your hitting that limit with your lead acid battery. The simplest solution to your problem is to look at the Amp/hour rating of your existing battery and get something with a higher rating. Going LiPo can give a much higher rating with a LOT less weight. The downside being the need for a special charger and the need to be careful about storage and end point voltages. As to putting 2 batteries in series to get a higher voltage yes you can BUT increasing the voltage to a brushless motor requires you match the prop to the new voltage running on the existing prop will probably cook the motor. How hot is your brushless running now? Outrunners generally can swing a bigger prop than inrunners.

Longer run time by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
Hi, Lead acid doesn't like delivering the high currents brushless motors want. They are more suited to long term low currents. Go for a LiPo, 3 or 4S, something 7AH plus should keep you going for a while. Don't put batteries in parallel as one will inevitably try to charge the other, unless you have a hi power diode board in between them to prevent that. Cheers, Doug 😎

Longer run time by randhbarker Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 3 months ago
I am using 1 12v lead acid battery in my sea queen with a brushless motor. It’s only giving me about 15 minutes on the water. The boat will get up and go for a few minutes but after that I can have the throttle wide open but the speed has gone. Can I link more than 1 battery together to give me a greater voltage which I believe a brushless motor can cope with. If so which batteries should I use and should I wire in series or parallel? I await your thoughts Thanks

"Jessica" A Sea Scout renovation by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 months ago
[Score: 8/10] 24"/2000g "Jessica" A Sea Scout renovation Single Propellor (3 Blade 35mm) Direct Drive to a Propdrive 2830 1000kV (3 Blade) Powered by LiPoly (11.1v) 4Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through Quikrun 16BL30 Hobbywing (30Amps) ESC - Comments: Originally built by my Dad in the early sixties, fitted then with a Taycol Target and two very wet lead acid accumulators. First renovation about 26 years ago for my daughter Jessica, fitted with a 6V Decaperm. Performance was VERY sedate. Perhaps fitting for a Broads Cruiser? The Taycol will now go into the Danish fish cutter I am currently renovating. First two pics show her condition, incl. engine room, last year after about 25 years in the cellar. Last three pictures show current condition after extensive renovation, see 'Build Blog Jessica' and refit. Video shows her Sea Trial end of May https://youtu.be/b0BWJ3duzDw Now just cockpit fit to do and suitable crew to find. Can't 'select' Speed here as she wasn't equipped with GPS! But quick! Now she planes well so I guess I've turned her into a Sport Fishing Boat!? Rating/Score I also can't select for myself, that's something for you guys to do! ;-) Crew now enlisted and on board! Now complaining about lack of comfort in the open cockpit :-/. Just updated Score from the default 5 (=Average) to 8 cos I reckon she's more than just 'Average'. Don't remember seeing this possibility before !?

Charging NiMhs, one for Doug?... by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 months ago
I thought they all had to be cycled to keep any charge in 'em. What do I know? All my batteries have died...Lead acids, Nimhs (except for the new ones for the testing of the Spektrum). I hate bloody batteries. I don't use my stuff often enough to keep them working. Such as all Winter. Basically from September to May all boating is on hold. So batteries get left. I now have a Digital radio which uses 4 AAs, but they get charged in a wall wart, no packs of them and no fancy connectors, so that still leaves out the NiMhs. I suppose all you can do is run a motor or something. Maybe a light bulb. Then recharge. What a faff. I wasn't cut out for working models. Cheers, Martin

Charging NiMhs, one for Doug?... by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 months ago
Right, gentlemen who know fings, here are shots of the wires I have. OK, I must have put the banana plugged wires in a box marked R/C Gear, I'm assuming, but the charger's wires mainly have brick red flat contact -containing plugs. However, none of my battery packs have those, they have the white things with two small round pins in 'em, one socket square, one round. The newest pack for binding duties has a little black jobby that fits the Rxs. Pictures included of all relevance. I tried to charge an old(ish) lead acid after making up a lead, but the charger put up a "Connection Break" legend on its screen. I assume that means, That one's f****d, mate. Fair enough, I thought it might be. But i still haven't worked out a lead to charge those green wrapped old NiMhs. I HAVE charged them before, because I have had two attempts at flying the aircraft. It went round in circles and then took a slate off my daughter's roof, proving that aircraft models really DO need insurance! Anyway, enclosed are three pics. The shot of a Lipo is to show that I do have such things, but that dates way back and although not damaged or bulged hasn't been charged while I've had it. It was sent to me with 2 small outrunner brushless jobbies and a couple of brushed ESCs as a thankyou for sending plywood to a part of Britain that the PO won't go to with biggish parcels. Finally....I have today received my FlySky RC set and guess what? It all works, perfectly, out of the box. It's PRE-BOUND! Whoopee do! It musdt be an upgrade as it came with a small Li-Po battery pack for the Tx. and a charge lead from USB to Tx. body. That's all great, but how do I know how long to charge it for? It currently has what looks like a full charge on it, judging by the brightness of the LEDs. Getting used to a passable impression of my son's old Subaru front wheel and tyre (complete with vented disc and caliper behind!) will take a while. I am guessing that pushing the throttle trigger forward is like a brake on a car. I assume on a boat it would be reverse? The instructions are not in any way exhaustive! But hey...on a tatty old Futaba servo it all worked a treat. Here's the pics of wires. Cheers, Martin

54 year old Crash Tender by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 months ago
Hi Boaty, right on MOST counts👍 But some of us have 'The knowledge' 😉 Check out my 'Sea Scout Jessica - Renovation' build Blog. There's a section in it where I renovate the Taycol Target Dad put in the Sea Scout in the early sixties, with two wet cell lead-acid accumulators! I also converted it to run forwards and backwards with a normal brushed ESC. How is described in the Blog. A few pics attached, from dismantled to reassembled with new brushes. Pic 3 it the test set up with Servo tester to simulate RX, standard Graupner brushed ESC and my conversion board connected between ESC and motor. Then two pics of the input waveform to the motor; forward and then reverse. Last pic shows the 'unconverted' waveform, complete with whopping great sparks 😲 I've now upgraded the Sea Scout with a brushless and the Taycol will go into a Danish Fish Cutter I am currently renovating and converting from static to RC. The Taycol's sedate performance will be more suited to the cutter which only plodded along a 8 knots or so 😉 Complete process is described in the Blog. Otherwise you are right, with few exceptions the current young 'boaters' mostly belong to the 'instant fun chuck it when it stops working throw away' generation 🤔 Cheers, Doug 😎 Martin; for yonks I did my warships in RAF light camouflage grey which mysteriously used to turn up in Dad's office in the Electronics Bay, of which Dad was the CO. 😉 A bright yellow for my scooter also appeared one time!