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>> Home > Tags > leds

leds
leds
LED Tug Mast Navigation Lights by pittsfieldpete Lieutenant   Posted: 13 days ago
Hey Doug! I’ve finally finished the long-awaited sketch! I’m sorry it took me so long but I had to work under very adverse conditions. Nearly every time I sat down to work on it one of my wife’s friends would drop in for a visit & there isn’t enough light in the closet to sketch by. Anyway, the sketch is attached. I verified that all four of the boat’s exterior lights are LEDs. The pilot house interior light is a light bulb as I’ve said before. You asked before if it’d be possible to replace the bulb with an LED. It can be done so I noted the bulb’s supply voltage on the sketch, too. Both wires running to the bulb are white (labelled “WHT” on the sketch). The Aft Deck light LEDs look crystal-clear when they’re turned off, but when they’re turned on they light up yellow! I didn’t expect that because the Port & Starboard Sidelight LEDs are red & green respectively when they’re turned off. The Search Light LED is clear when it’s off & white when it’s on. I hope the sketch is helpful. As I said in my last post I couldn’t get the voltage readings on the SMD resistor inputs, but I wrote their 3-digit numbers & my stab at their values in my last post, too. I hope the nomenclature I used on the sketch is somewhat like what you’re used to. Being a mechanical guy I never did any electrical or electronics drawings so I just took a stab at it for the sketch. If you have questions or need anything else just ask. Thanks again, Pete

Charging NiMhs, one for Doug?... by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 18 days ago
Right, gentlemen who know fings, here are shots of the wires I have. OK, I must have put the banana plugged wires in a box marked R/C Gear, I'm assuming, but the charger's wires mainly have brick red flat contact -containing plugs. However, none of my battery packs have those, they have the white things with two small round pins in 'em, one socket square, one round. The newest pack for binding duties has a little black jobby that fits the Rxs. Pictures included of all relevance. I tried to charge an old(ish) lead acid after making up a lead, but the charger put up a "Connection Break" legend on its screen. I assume that means, That one's f****d, mate. Fair enough, I thought it might be. But i still haven't worked out a lead to charge those green wrapped old NiMhs. I HAVE charged them before, because I have had two attempts at flying the aircraft. It went round in circles and then took a slate off my daughter's roof, proving that aircraft models really DO need insurance! Anyway, enclosed are three pics. The shot of a Lipo is to show that I do have such things, but that dates way back and although not damaged or bulged hasn't been charged while I've had it. It was sent to me with 2 small outrunner brushless jobbies and a couple of brushed ESCs as a thankyou for sending plywood to a part of Britain that the PO won't go to with biggish parcels. Finally....I have today received my FlySky RC set and guess what? It all works, perfectly, out of the box. It's PRE-BOUND! Whoopee do! It musdt be an upgrade as it came with a small Li-Po battery pack for the Tx. and a charge lead from USB to Tx. body. That's all great, but how do I know how long to charge it for? It currently has what looks like a full charge on it, judging by the brightness of the LEDs. Getting used to a passable impression of my son's old Subaru front wheel and tyre (complete with vented disc and caliper behind!) will take a while. I am guessing that pushing the throttle trigger forward is like a brake on a car. I assume on a boat it would be reverse? The instructions are not in any way exhaustive! But hey...on a tatty old Futaba servo it all worked a treat. Here's the pics of wires. Cheers, Martin

Wheels by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 18 days ago
Great job, and nice clear pic 👍 Thanks Hammer 😊 Now we can see the refinements of your construction. Good stuff. I also use a mini gas torch sometimes, in pistol grip form with adjustable flame. Pizo ignition, dead easy. Get 'em in good cooking accessory shops. Good for soldering oil tubes on brass prop tubes an such. Cooks call them Gourmet Torches and use 'em for their Crème Brulet 😊 Also various electric irons, 50 W with a 1/4" chisel bit for big stuff, standard 25W general purpose, temp controlled 25W,and a mini 1mm bit temp controlled for SMD work. Good for small LEDs etc. Cheers, Doug 😎 PS Also one electric iron 1200W ........ . . . . for ironing shirts! Ugh!! 😡

LED Tug Mast Navigation Lights by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 22 days ago
Hi Pete, Number 1, Get yourself some more batteries! You'll want a spare at the pond anyway 😉 Better still, get a variable mains power supply for such bench tests so you don't have to mess with batteries until you're on the pond! Here in Munich I got a Basetech 30V 5A regulated PSU for less then the price of a decent boat kit. See 2nd pic, shows mine during my test of a converted field coil motor to make it run forwards and backwards. it saves a lot of faffing about with batteries for a quick test of a circuit😉 Get one where you can set a current limit down to mAmps so you don't risk blowing components, e.g. LEDs! Re Connectors: if you are going to make a little distribution board for the lights then why not use this for all connections to the superstructure? I.e. first solder all the wires from the circuit board into the input end of your Veroboard. At the output end solder a strip of 1/10" pitch connector pins. Try Radio Shack! For each output to lamps, smoker etc you can then use the little 2 pin JST plugs. See pic. Type JST-RCY. Try Googling them. Sure you can get these from any half decent Online RC supplies shop over there. They are often used in Park Flyer planes etc. Doing it that way you only have half the wires to squash into the tiny plugs 😉 As soon as we have the voltage readings we can work out the connections and resistors etc for your little board. Happy measuring😁 Looking forward to your sketch. Cheers, Doug 😎

LED Tug Mast Navigation Lights by pittsfieldpete Lieutenant   Posted: 23 days ago
Hello, Doug: I had everything ready to take the voltage readings this morning except for one minor detail: the 7.2v battery pack was dead so I had to plug it in to charge. It should be ready by mid-afternoon today. In the meantime I’ve got a few questions about connectors. As I said earlier I want to install connectors in the existing wiring that runs up into the deck house & pilot house. I’ll do the same with the new wiring that’ll go to the mast LEDs, too. I’d like to use miniature multi-conductor plugs & sockets with male & female conductors that solder onto the cut & stripped wires. Presently there are (10) wires for LED lighting, (2) for the pilot house lamp, (2) for the smoke generator & (2) for the smoke “blower” - (16) wires all together. At this point I don’t know how many wires there’ll be all together. Do you think a single connector for all of the wires is a good idea or would it be better to use several small connectors? Last of all, do you know of a source for small or miniature connectors? Radio Shack’s site lists connectors but they look too bulky. The conductor pins & sockets used with them appear to be designed for much larger gauge wires than the skinny wires in the tug. I’ve looked at several other sites but the technical nomenclature used for something as simple as connectors give me a headache. Help, please?

Spektrum, new, useless... by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 24 days ago
I agree Haverlock, One definitely, potentially, possible final thought😁 Martin; Did you pull the bind plug out BEFORE you switched off the RX? If the green light at the RH end of the LEDs on the TX was lit it MIGHT mean the RX was bound OK. Can happen so quick you may not have noticed! Esp. if the better half popped her head round the door to offer another cuppa at the vital moment😉 JFF stick a servo in the RX and try it. You may get a pleasant surprise. If you don't - nothing lost. If you do - have fun with it. Good luck. Doug 😎 PS Re PTB; when I started I thought it would just be a Cosmetic job; clean up flat back and respray in Pacific green camouflage. Ho ho ho! After I got started I found some curiosities in the construction and that the prop tubes and rudder stocks were misaligned. Never mind the ESC that burst into flames when I tried an 'as bought' test. So from then on it was clear that I had a full rebuild / reno. on my hands. "Hey ho hey ho it's off to work we go"!😉 All old paint now off, chine rails repaired / replaced and first coats of resin and tissue strengthening applied. Might get to the priming tomorrow or Sunday.

Seeing the light by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 24 days ago
You mention LEDs (plural) so how many? In series or parallel? 😎

Seeing the light by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 24 days ago
Evenin' Peter, Imagine your pot as R1. What value is it by the way? I can't answer the second part of your question without knowing what value the pot is! To turn the pot into a simple variable resistor connect one end to the wiper, the middle pin. This end is then connected to Pin 7 of the 555 and to the top of R2. The 'open' end is connected to Vcc. 6V ? You can then vary R1 over the full range of the pot. Which is ??? Frequency (= flash rate F) is given by F=1/Cx(R1+2xR2). R's in Ohms, C's in microfarads. Examples: if your pot (R1) is 10kOhm, R2 is 10kOhm and C is 50uF you will get a frequency of 0.96Hz, as near as dammit 1 flash per second 😲 (Don't get arrested!😁) Duty cycle will be about 66% i.e. 2/3 ON, 1/3 OFF. At the other extreme of the pot, i.e. Zero Ohm - F = 1.44Hz, Duty cycle is 50%; 347mSec ON, 347mSec OFF. Now you see why I need to know what value pot you have. C = 100uF would give you about 700mS ON, 700mS OFF with a 10k pot set to 0Ohm. At 10kOhm it would be about 1.4S ON, 0.7S OFF. Duty cycle 66% (2/3 On 1/3 OFF). Give me the component values you have and I can work out the pissibolities 😲😁 Cheers, Doug 😎 PS: CMOS is good👍 cos it can switch the full Vss voltage to the output. Just check that your bulbs do not draw more then 200mA or you'll pop the 555 output.😡 Personally I would use LEDs which only need 20 to 30mA. Then we get into dropping resistors, which is already a topic with some tug builders here😉

LED Tug Mast Navigation Lights by pittsfieldpete Lieutenant   Posted: 25 days ago
Hi, Doug: Somewhere along the way I must have messed up & given you some bad information. There are no connectors in any of the wiring that runs from the circuit board up into the deck house & pilot house. I think at some point I mentioned that I want to put connectors in the wiring which is probably what has caused the mixup. By installing connectors in the wiring I’d be able to completely remove the bottom cover of the deck house (with the circuit board attached to it) & move it safely aside without the risk of damaging the wiring. Then I’ll better access to the deck house interior if I ever need to work on anything inside. Anyway, I’ll use the needlepoint “+” probe on my pen-style multimeter to take all of the readings that are needed to avoid shorts. There are (5) pairs of wires soldered to the board that supply power & ground to the boat’s (4) LEDs & (1) bulb. I don’t think I’ll have any trouble getting the voltage measurements you need. I’ll get a sketch & voltage readings to you as soon as I can. Thanks again for your continued assistance.

LED Tug Mast Navigation Lights by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 25 days ago
I ain't laughing Pete, it's a fair question (or two) 😉 1 Location: you're on the right track👍 A little distribution board, e.g. built on Veroboard, is a good tidy solution and simplifies any troubleshooting later. Put the resistors in the + lead to the LEDs. 2 Resistor size and heat: 1/8 or 1/4 W resistors will do nicely. Since they will only be passing 20 to 30mA they should not get hot. The size is about 3mmx 10mm. Allow 3 or 4mm at each end for the leads for flat mounting. 3 Values: Before we can determine these we will need to know what voltage is supplied to the dropping resistors on the circuit board just before the plug and socket connection to the lamp wire. So you will have to do some testing with your multi-meter😲 before you pull anything apart make a sketch of the lamps connections to the board. Switch on your TX and RX - IN THAT ORDER PLEASE! Switch on each existing light in turn and measure the volts at the socket on the board, referred to the negative of the main battery supply. Then look for one of those teeny SMD resistors directly connected to the socket pin you've just measured and check the volts at both ends while the lamp is on. Note all these readings on your sketch. Make a clear photo of this sketch and post it or PM me for my email address. doug-bell@t-online.de that might get deleted by the site system🤔 When we have these readings I can work out some suitable combinations to achieve what you want and minimise the number of different resistors. Basically I need to know if the full 7.2V of the main battery is switched to the resistor by the RX output! If not then what!? Hope this makes sense 😉 Takes longer to describe than to do it ! Re sourcing: Try Radio Shack. I recently pointed another site colleague (figtree) in this direction for a similar project with his Brooklyn tug. For instance- https://www.radioshack.com/collections/resistors/products/50... This is a collection of so called preferred values, i.e. near enough standard values and cheap to produce by the millions. For $7.50 it's got all the values you are likely to need for the next 10 years illuminated boating 😁 Cheers, Doug 😎🤓

LED Tug Mast Navigation Lights by pittsfieldpete Lieutenant   Posted: 26 days ago
Hi, Doug: I’ve got a question about the resistors that’ll be needed for each of the six mast-mounted LED navigation lights. This may seem like a dumb question to an expert like you but please don’t laugh too hard. Anyway, do these resistors need to be installed as close as close as possible to the anode or can they be located some distance away, maybe as much as a foot or so? I don’t know yet what the value or physical size of the resistors will be but I’m pretty sure that the space inside the Richardson’s mast isn’t large enough to house the wiring for the LEDs & the resistors, too. If they can be installed farther away, I was thinking I could put the six resistors on a small board & install it inside the large cabin under the pilot house. When resistors are used in LED circuits do they get warm or even hot? If so, I can open up the dummy rectangular portholes & install black fine-mesh nylon screens in the openings. If heat isn’t a concern then I won’t sweat it (bad pun there, sorry). The hardest part of my project will probably be finding a good online source for the various electronic parts I’ll need. There used to be a great electronics supply store about two miles from my home. Coincidentally, that store was less than a block up the street from a hobby shop where I did business for almost fifty years. Now both stores are long gone. Sniff.

LED Tug Mast Navigation Lights by pittsfieldpete Lieutenant   Posted: 1 month ago
Pete piping in here. No, the bulb in my tug is crystal clear overall. Plus, it lights up when a button on the transmitter is pressed. Would a “fuse” do that? I wonder if it’s a carryover from an older pre-LED design or possibly something to do with acting as a resistor for the various LEDs on the pilot house? But that’s strictly a guess on my part. My experience with & understanding of LEDs & how they’re used properly is very, very limited. Pete

LED Tug Mast Navigation Lights by pittsfieldpete Lieutenant   Posted: 1 month ago
Thanks again, Doug. By the way, the light on the pilot house ceiling definitely looks like an incandescent bulb. It’s hard to see through the dark tinted windows but I managed to get a photo. Hopefully you can make out the shape of the bulb & see that it resembles a typical small Christmas tree light bulb. I can’t imagine why that kind of bulb was chosen when LEDs were used everywhere else. Very odd.

LED Tug Mast Navigation Lights by pittsfieldpete Lieutenant   Posted: 1 month ago
Hi, Doug: You’ve been a busy man! I certainly appreciate your efforts & assistance. I haven’t removed the tug’s deck or the bottom cover of its pilot house to look at the circuit boards as yet but I’ll do it later on this morning. I’ve included a marked-up scan from the tug’s instruction booklet to show the transmitter’s current use of its function switches. I also suggested a way to add LED navigation lights to the mast (in two groups) & control them with two of the transmitter switches. Please let me know if the scan or my poor printing are unreadable & I’ll try again. The table below lists the factory-designed transmitter function switches & their original purpose. TABLE ONE - EXISTING CONFIGURATION Switch L2 - Controls (1) clear LED pilot house roof searchlight. Switch L3 - Controls (1) red LED port sidelight. Switch L4 - Controls (2) clear LED aft deck lights. Switch R2 - Controls (1) clear pilot house interior light*. Switch R3 - Controls (1) green LED starboard sidelight. Switch R4 - Controls the horn. *This appears to be an incandescent bulb. Table Two suggests a way of combining some of the existing functions with two groups of new mast LEDs, then using (2) of the existing transmitter switches to control them. For mast lights I’d like to add (1) yellow LED mast top anchor light, (3) clear LED forward-facing navigation lights (1) clear LED aft-facing navigation light & (1) clear LED aft-facing anchor light. TABLE TWO - MODIFIED CONFIGURATION Switch L2 - [No change] Switch L3 - Controls (1) red LED port sidelight, (1) green LED starboard sidelight, (1) aft-facing clear LED anchor light & (1) aft-facing clear LED navigation light. Switch L4 - [No change] Switch R2 - [No change] Switch R3 - Controls (1) yellow LED mast top light & (3) forward- facing clear LED navigation lights. Switch R4 - [No change] Even though an actual tugboat probably wouldn’t have all of her mast lights turned on together, I don’t mind if they’re all on at once on my tug. The modifications above result in having (4) LEDs controlled by Switch L3 & (4) LEDs controlled by Switch R3. If these changes are possible then adding the (6) new LEDs should be relatively easy, plus all lighting & the horn are still powered by the tug’s 7.2 volt battery. I plan to upgrade the battery to a much higher mAh rating to help offset the extra drain from the additional LEDs. Doug? If you’re still awake after reading this what are your thoughts? Is my plan feasible? Thanks again for your help. Pete

LED Tug Mast Navigation Lights by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi Pete, Some basics. If you want to run 5 LEDs from 7.2V this is the circuit you need. See pdf. Click the file icon and then 'Download' in the top left of the disply to view and download the file as pdf. If you want to drive 6 LEDs you insert the 6th in the third branch and change the resistor to 62 Ohm, like the first two branches. Current drawn remains 60mA, power consumption drops a few mW. Any dropping resistor fitted on the circuit board must be shorted out or replaced with a tinned copper wire link, if possible. More on that later. Instructions for wiring up, and finding out where!, follow this evening. cheers Doug 😎 BTW: does this look like the circuit board you have? (Last two pics.) Same part # JH-003R ?