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>> Home > Tags > leds

leds
leds
Main Cabin Doors! by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 22 days ago
BTW: to connect up! The shorter leg on the LED is the Anode (smaller electrode inside the LED) which goes to the positive of the battery. Chain the 3 LEDs together short lead to long lead. At the ends; Connect the resistor to the short lead (Anode) at the end and connect the other end of the resistor to the + side of the battery via your switch. The long lead at the other end of the LED chain goes to the - side of the battery via the common negative (black wire). hope this helps, cheers Doug 😎

Main Cabin Doors! by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 22 days ago
Hi again, I recommend that you use three circuits of 3 LEDs each. If your main battery is 12V (or 11.1V LiPo) you can then use a 120 or 150Ohm resistor for each circuit. Lower value resistor = brighter light! With a NiMH at 7.2 V use 60Ohm resistors, with a 7.4V LiPo use 68 or 75Ohm resistors. 1/8th or 1/4 Watt resistors will do. Have an illuminating time 😊, cheers Doug 😎

Main Cabin Doors! by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 22 days ago
No Stern Light? No lights in the Greenhouse (Oops😲) I mean Wheelhouse? Do you happen to know if the LEDs are 'standard' or Extra Bright (High Power) ? Is there a Type number on the package? If not don't worry, I'll use 'safe average' values. 👍 More soon. Cheers Doug 😎

Main Cabin Doors! by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 22 days ago
Hi Ed, send me a sketch of the running light and deck light circuits; i.e. how many circuits with how many lights (LEDS) in each, and the voltage they should run off, and I'll work out the dropping resistor values for you.👍 Your doors remind me of the ones I made for my destroyer, but mine are only about 5 cents tall (ca 2cm) at 1/72. Stanchions are 15mm, with brass wire supports soldered on to every second one, all the way round a 1.35m deck plus gun decks 😲 Didn't even want to SEE brass wire for months after that! Cheers Doug 😎

Cabin detail Pt 2 by mturpin013 Admiral   Posted: 1 month ago
The next piece is what I can only describe as the dash board (what’s the nautical term?) Bridge? Anyway it’s the bit with all the knobs and levers that make it go. I chose to stick with ply construction throughout the build so will be using 1mm 3 ply. I copied all the dimensions from a cross section detail of the cabin instruments and controls and then made card models first to ensure everything fitted. I made spaces for the speed control and compass and drawn up detailed drgs of the instruments which I hope to make from 0.5mm stainless steel with back lighting of the dials and general lighting from LEDs. The cabin area will finish at the door to the galley kitchen.

Perkasa Class by CB90 Commander   Posted: 1 month ago
Perkasa MTB A favourite model boat there must have been hundreds if not thousands made. When I brought mine there was a choice between two sizes 36in (90cm) or 48in (120cm) and then you could choose between a wooden hull or a fibreglass hull. I went for the smaller boat with the fibreglass hull. this was back in the 1980s. Background of the boat The boats Perkasa class consisted of three motor torpedo boats built by Vosper (UK) for the Malaysian Navy as follows:- Perkasa 150 Penula 151 Handalan 152 This model has 3 motors, port & starboard are Graupner 600s and one 700 type in the centre runs 3 ESCs front and rear guns operate via servos, with flashing LEDs down the barrels.

Pride of Hyde by jfstoker Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 2 months ago
Built from a Linkspan model kit, with additional crew and passengers with all decks lit with LEDs

MV TEAKWOOD by RHBaker Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
Before the funnel could be installed wanted to fit a working radar scanner, navigation lights and the batteries. Decided to use sub C NIMH batteries in plastic holders, they should have the target endurance and provide some ballast. Fitted two sets of 4 cells, one at the forward end of the superstructure and the other at the rear, both at keel level. These were inserted into wooden battery trays to hold them in place. A dry test run showed a full speed motor run time well exceeding the hour target, so will try on water. Also took the opportunity to fit the Rx and then adjust the rudder before finishing off the wiring. Both the navigation lights (LEDs) and the radar scanner work. The radar is driven by a servo with the potentiometer removed and a magnetic drive shaft run up through the superstructure from below the deck. The motor requires about 9 volts to run at what would seem to be something approximating to scale speed; fitted a voltage reducer to allow the lights and the radar to work on less than 6 volts. The mast lights are to be installed in a separate circuit after the masts are added. As I get more into the detail it is evident the GA drawing and the photographs of the vessel in service differ. Fortunately the component locations seem consistent, although the equipment is not. This most apparent in the hold ventilators. The GA shows the standard cowl vents, but the photographs show a mixture between an vertically squeezed oval vent (which am advised is more typically German) and ventilator columns with cylindrical caps. The column style vents with cylindrical caps were easily made from two different sizes of styrene tube with the cap tops made from styrene offcuts. The squeezed oval style vents were more difficult. Broke them down into the major parts of the cylindrical vertical tube and, from a larger tube cut a small ring and filed one end to straddle the tube once it had been squeezed oval. Glued it into place whilst restrained in a small hand vice. Once set, removed and sanded the the two to give a smooth transition, closing the rear aperture off with styrene offcuts. Then resorted to wood filler, filed down to give a smooth, oval vent.

TRIUMPH (CG-52301) USCG Type F MLB by circle43nautical Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
Laser cut kit from Barracuda RC Boats, N Carolina, USA. Baltic birch plywood false keel, ribs/frames, hull sheathing, deck and cabins. No formal plans; I was able to source a handful of B&W archival photos from the USCG website. Fortunately I was able to procure a motherload of archival photos and a few hard to read layout drawings from Mr. Timothy Dring, LCDR, USN (Ret.). He is co-author of "American Coastal Rescue Craft", which is the "bible" if you will, of such. I do sometimes thank the internet. I am certain that without his assistance, my efforts on this wouldn't have been as enjoyable. The kit was also void of fittings, which I was aware of prior to purchase, so I invested in a 3D printer. That I've used to a limited degree, due to searching for parts in the correct file format is mind-numbing! I have globally sourced fittings; USA, UK, ASIA. As a matter of fact, the searchlights I got from this Model Boat Shop were 3D printed, and I was able to fit 5mm LEDs into them. I'd like to get a couple more and put some superbright 12v LED drone lamps in them for use on my 35" towboat. Many deck fittings are handmade when possible, the cleats and fairleads are from Cornwall Boats, UK. (Very reasonable & diverse source, if you didn't already know.) I try to keep wood natural when detail allows it, as I never have enjoyed painting over natural grain. Her decks are covered with 1/16" scribed basswood sheathing from earthandtree.com, which is normally used for wainscoting dollhouse walls. All my boats that have wood decks are covered with scribed sheathing; I feel it makes 'em look "sexy". Believe it or not, the idea for wainscoting came from finding 3/16" at Hobby Lobby's dollhouse department. A couple of feet x 3.5" was about $16, so I found a less expensive source that also had more selections (earthandtree.com) The rail stanchions are 3/16" square dowels with 2 corners rounded over on the Dremel router table. Leaving their base square, I fit a square peg into a round hole with no glue to facilitate removal, and also for ease of replacing broken ones, which is inevitable. The rail is 1/16" brass rod that also is readily removable. The stern rail is stationary on the lower half, and the chain & wire stanchions are removable for towing ops. The deck coamings and knuckle are African mahogany strips, other mahogany accents came from leftovers of a prior build. I also try on all my boats, to incorporate vintage leftover scribed sheathing salvaged from my late Father's builds, so I know he's got a part in my builds. Note-the raised deck section between the aft ladder trunk and towing bit is actually a laminated deckhouse he made for the Frigate Essex. Unfortunately, he was unable to build that kit due to Alzheimer's disease in his latter years. (I blame that mostly on the hazardous fumes from the airplane "dope" & glue he used when building RC planes in the 60s & 70s.) I use polyurethane instead of resin due to COPD, 37 yrs of smoking, I quit 2.5 yrs ago. The driveline consists of: 775 Johnson DC main (3500 RPM@12V), Harbor Models 4mm x 14" shaft w/brass stuffing box, Raboesch 75mm 5-blade brass wheel (not OEM), 5mm U-joint couplers, Dimart 320A fan-cooled ESC. Handmade wooden teardrop rudder on a 3/8" sternpost, 1/4" tiller arm steered by a Halcion sail winch servo and cable system. Flysky 6 channel. The nav lights and other illumination are Lighthouse 9v LEDs, also a GoolRC Receiver controlled flashing blue Law Enforcement light. Obviously, I put the cart before the horse and completed the topsides and below deck before finishing the outer hull, but the Wx and season change dictated such. Can't wait for Spring!

RSS P71 Sovereignty by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 5 months ago
Know the feeling with 'time' for things like synch'ed gun flash and sound! I have loads of miniature LEDs and two programmable sound units with synch switches - as yet only the instructions have been out of the box🤔 My destroyer radar is also independent of the RC - I just put a microswitch under the 'B' gun turret to switch it on 😉

DISCHARGE CONUNDRUM by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 6 months ago
Hi Les Thank you. There are three LEDS which change from red to green when fully charged. I can see no mention of setting a half charge. Haverlock was right in thinking each cell was charged by the balance lead so you will be protected from overcharging. The solution is to buy a battery checker theirs is DYN4071 and I have one in my collection. Using the checker involves plugging the battery via the balance lead into the balancer and each cell voltage is displayed sequentially. So you charge for half your normal length of time and check the voltage of each cell is about 3.7 to 3.8v. Bit clunky but would work. A better solution would be to invest in a balancer charger which will automatically charge to full voltage or the storage charge. There are several available some with mains power supplies and others needing a DC power source. Have a look at https://www.componentshop.co.uk/catalogsearch/result/?q=bala... I have a Giant Power G6AC but they all work just as well. Please ask if you need more info

Twin motor control problem by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 6 months ago
John As you are using 2.4Ghz radios there is quite a long delay in the binding between Tx and Rx. The ESCs also perform a set up and I have noticed that this is often quicker than the radio. As a result the ESCs have no signal and can revert to a failsafe state. If you have correctly set up the ESC with the tx then it should retain this setting unless you press the set up button whilst the lights are flashing. I suspect this is at the root of the problem. To restore the settings to your set I suggest you use a separate rx battery, centre the throttle stick and trim and get the Tx/rx working together. Then switch on the ESC and whilst the lights are flashing press the set up button and move the throttle stick full forward (solid green) then full reverse (solid red) return to neutral solid red/green. If you now switch off the esc and rx battery and switch back on the ESC should have solid red/green light showing. Repeat with the other ESC and test. Switch off and connect both escs via the Y lead. You can use one ESC to provide the rx power but do disconnect one red lead. Centre the tx throttle and trim and make sure you switch on the ESC with the BEC connected first. Hopefully both ESCs will now have solid red/green leds. I use three Mtronic ESCs with my RMS Olympic and had a very similar problem. I suspect the change from bench to water is more to do with stick/trim alignment and longer binding time due to other 2.4 Tx working in close proximity at the sailing site. I look forward to hearing your efforts next wednesday - hopefully the next hurricane will have passed by then.

Lights all wired up by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 6 months ago
Hi Neil, Don't know how Graham wired his but the simplest is series for each lighting circuit; minimum wiring and only one current limiting resistor calculated to set the specified operating current for the LEDs used. In a parallel circuit the resistor value must be calculated for the sum of the operating currents of all the LEDs in the circuit. Required Resistance = (Voltage Source - LED Forward Voltage) / Max LED Current or R = (Vs-Vf) / Imax As an example, a particular LED has a 3.0 volt forward voltage (Vf) and a maximum current rating of 20mA. It is to be driven with a 5.0 volt source. Therefore, R = (5.0 - 3.0) / .020 or R = 2.0 / .020 or R = 100 Ohms If you do not know the LED specs, typically, a 80-100 ohm resistor will do just fine. All you 'never wanted to know' about LEDs in model boats (or any other model!) you can find here - http://www.laureanno.com/RC/LED-assembly.htm Cheers Doug 😎

Lights all wired up by NPJ Captain   Posted: 6 months ago
Thank you for coming back so quickly. Do not concern yourself about not very elaborate, it looks really great. Impressive show. I assume you had to balance out the number of LEDs. Have they got to be in series or parallel? Sorry but I am very inexperienced in this stuff! All the best. NPJ

Hobby Engine Richardson Upgrade by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 7 months ago
Hi Mark, took me yonks to find them all🤔 I also experimented with battery athwartships, hope for better 'roll control' but eventually settled for between the shafts cos athwartships was too high. My 'pico' RX (ca. 5x1.5cm😉) can go almost anywhere, with Velcro to hold it in place. The dual ESC can go where the old 800mAh NiMH was. Later stage: smoke genny and lighting board in the lower superstructure, as apparently also in the latest versions! Mini SMD or strip LEDs for illumination and nav lights, mini 3V geared motor for the radar perhaps. Don't need a radio channel for this, just a switch and a couple of AA alkaline batts and away you go😉 Although these days you almost never see the antenna cos it's hidden in a 'burger-bun' radome a la Furuno! 😉 Somewhere on the WWW spider web I remember seeing a working towing tackle - must dig out the bookmark, might have been Krick! Cheers Doug 😎 Glad you're enjoying it Neil, that's the whole point ain't it? 👍