Hello, Doug: I had everything ready to take the voltage readings this morning except for one minor detail: the 7.2v battery pack was dead so I had to plug it in to charge. It should be ready by mid-afternoon today. In the meantime I’ve got a few questions about connectors. As I said earlier I want to install connectors in the existing wiring that runs up into the deck house & pilot house. I’ll do the same with the new wiring that’ll go to the mast LEDs, too. I’d like to use miniature multi-conductor plugs & sockets with male & female conductors that solder onto the cut & stripped wires. Presently there are (10) wires for LED lighting, (2) for the pilot house lamp, (2) for the smoke generator & (2) for the smoke “blower” - (16) wires all together. At this point I don’t know how many wires there’ll be all together. Do you think a single connector for all of the wires is a good idea or would it be better to use several small connectors? Last of all, do you know of a source for small or miniature connectors? Radio Shack’s site lists connectors but they look too bulky. The conductor pins & sockets used with them appear to be designed for much larger gauge wires than the skinny wires in the tug. I’ve looked at several other sites but the technical nomenclature used for something as simple as connectors give me a headache. Help, please?
Hi Doug. It is a 1M pot. This is a single turn component. I also have 5k multi turn, 200k one turn, and 500k 1 turn. I have loads of resistors. 1,10 and 100uf capacitors.😊 The LED`s are 20mA. I have been reading the Tug lighting thread. Interesting. Thanks.
David thanks for reply. On the wheels I used this small blow torch. Small flame but very hot at point. Temperamental to light. My technique is to listen to the gas escaping, lighting when strong. I also have three soldering irons of different strengths which I used on the dull plating.
When I had another try at the big hatch it came right off easily. I think it was a bit stuck on the gasket. The push-to-release latch is really something; a 50/50 blend of wow & ridiculous. It’s an impressive mechanism but it’s also seriously over-designed. The battery hatch under the pilot house has a simple quarter-turn catch to hold it shut while the aft hatch has a fancy spring-loaded push button release assembly. Doesn’t make much sense, really. My boat has a piece of foam in the bilge, too, but I’m reluctant to remove it. Although it’s no use for flotation my theory is that it may serve two purposes. First, it might be there for sound dampening. Those two big motors & their reduction gears make a lot of noise in that large void surrounded by stiff plastic. Second, any seepage through the stuffing boxes would be absorbed by the foam & keep bilge water away from the motors. Those are my thoughts but I could be way off. The Richardson does indeed have different electronics compared to some of the other Hobby Engine tugs. It’s got working interior & exterior lighting, horn & smoke units, plus it has a 2.4ghz transmitter & receiver, which is a nice feature in that it does away with a mast-style antenna. That’s the main reason I chose my boat; I don’t know enough about R/C models to be able to say if 2.4ghz actually performs any better than 27mhz. Anyway, thanks again for the excellent advice. I learned more about my boat without breaking it. Outstanding!
Hi, Doug: You’ve been a busy man! I certainly appreciate your efforts & assistance. I haven’t removed the tug’s deck or the bottom cover of its pilot house to look at the circuit boards as yet but I’ll do it later on this morning. I’ve included a marked-up scan from the tug’s instruction booklet to show the transmitter’s current use of its function switches. I also suggested a way to add LED navigation lights to the mast (in two groups) & control them with two of the transmitter switches. Please let me know if the scan or my poor printing are unreadable & I’ll try again. The table below lists the factory-designed transmitter function switches & their original purpose. TABLE ONE - EXISTING CONFIGURATION Switch L2 - Controls (1) clear LED pilot house roof searchlight. Switch L3 - Controls (1) red LED port sidelight. Switch L4 - Controls (2) clear LED aft deck lights. Switch R2 - Controls (1) clear pilot house interior light*. Switch R3 - Controls (1) green LED starboard sidelight. Switch R4 - Controls the horn. *This appears to be an incandescent bulb. Table Two suggests a way of combining some of the existing functions with two groups of new mast LEDs, then using (2) of the existing transmitter switches to control them. For mast lights I’d like to add (1) yellow LED mast top anchor light, (3) clear LED forward-facing navigation lights (1) clear LED aft-facing navigation light & (1) clear LED aft-facing anchor light. TABLE TWO - MODIFIED CONFIGURATION Switch L2 - [No change] Switch L3 - Controls (1) red LED port sidelight, (1) green LED starboard sidelight, (1) aft-facing clear LED anchor light & (1) aft-facing clear LED navigation light. Switch L4 - [No change] Switch R2 - [No change] Switch R3 - Controls (1) yellow LED mast top light & (3) forward- facing clear LED navigation lights. Switch R4 - [No change] Even though an actual tugboat probably wouldn’t have all of her mast lights turned on together, I don’t mind if they’re all on at once on my tug. The modifications above result in having (4) LEDs controlled by Switch L3 & (4) LEDs controlled by Switch R3. If these changes are possible then adding the (6) new LEDs should be relatively easy, plus all lighting & the horn are still powered by the tug’s 7.2 volt battery. I plan to upgrade the battery to a much higher mAh rating to help offset the extra drain from the additional LEDs. Doug? If you’re still awake after reading this what are your thoughts? Is my plan feasible? Thanks again for your help. Pete
The aft mast was made out of a teak curtain rod turned down on my metal lathe (what a mess it made, wood dust all over the place 😱) it was made in two pieces with a hole drilled up each piece to take the lighting wires. The bit to take the boom, never sure if it is a swan neck or a goose neck was made out of bits of tubing and plasticard. All the other bits and pieces came out of the scrap box. The boom was just made from a piece of dowel and stained.
Hi, everyone: I have a Hobby Engine Richardson Tugboat that I’m about 98% happy with just as it came out of the box. The 2% that I’d like to add would be to rebuild the main mast & replace the “dummy” mast-mounted navigation lights with LEDs. The mast has a partially open back with molded-on ladder rungs. I plan to use the open area for wiring, then add a back cover & bent wire rungs. The boat has working red & green sidelights, working rear deck area floodlights, a working searchlight on the pilot house roof & working pilot house interior lighting. Each of the “white” lights have individual on & off function switches on the transmitter, which is excellent. But for some odd reason the red & green sidelights are turned on & off separately. Ideally, what I would like to do is combine the sidelights so they switch on & off together with one transmitter switch & use the now “spare” transmitter switch to turn the new mast-mounted “white” lights on & off. I realize my plan may not be possible but I really would like my idea to work. Note that the tug has a short mast attached to the aft pilot house railing. This mast has two dummy navigation lights & the main mast has three. I plan to remove the short mast & add two aft-facing lights to the main mast. I’ll need help with wiring power correctly for the five new LEDs. I’d like to tap into the boat’s 7.2 volt battery power, but it might be best to add a separate battery box. I’d really appreciate ideas. Can anyone offer advice about my project? Is it feasible to do or should I leave well enough alone? Thanks.
Billing boats, which took me 3 years to build.Hull was planked and theh fibre glass. Boat has full functional remote with seperate port starboard control,rudder and bow thruster. full inside and mast lighting.
[Score: 8/10] Twin Propellors (4 Blade) Direct Drive to a 2-550 motors (4 Blade) Powered by Lead Acid (6v) 10Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through 50amp ESC - Comments: This is a Graupner Premium Line.I wasn't happy with the universals and plastic 3 bladed props.Replaced the universals and changed props to 4 bladed brass.Also changed the prop shaft to a threaded 4mm shaft which I happened to have in my spares.She runs a lot better now with these changes.Still to come is lighting and sound.
I originally built this about 6 years ago when I was still a novice builder and some mistakes were made and it ended up partially sinking , it was left in the workshop for about a year before I decided to refit it out. The deck just lifted of the framing without any problems because it was rotten as well as some of the framing , the motors and prop shafts had seized and most of the electrics and the battery had shorterd and corroded due to the sinking. I had been doing the odd bits of the refit over the past couple of years not really in any rush to complete it. After replacing the rotten framing I started to replace the electrics with all new gear Battery 12v 7mah Motors Mtronic 560 Working crane using 3 mini motors with Mr RC world micro speed controllers Working anchor winch (krick I think) Full lighting kit and working radar Main speed controllers electronize The pictures shows as it is now ready for the new decking to be fitted
Addendum! Attached a pic of the selection of artists brushes I have found useful. As well as 3 tubes of oil colour useful for weathering effects; detail highlighting, dirt, rust etc. 😉 Seal afterwards with a quick blast of clear satin or matt fixer / varnish. The 'fixer' is also useful for fixing inkjet printed colour photos and oil or water paintings 😁 Clean brushes with artists turpentine or white spirit. Ciao Doug 😎
That's a very clever design and we'll executed. Two concerns, the finished roof might be a little fragile and easily knocked, trust me, it happens 😱, particularly with the mast in place and the 'pantagraph' motion knocked out of alignment. Also, if you are doing working lighting for the mast, front and side nav lights and searchlight, how will you articulate the wiring to them neatly? Perhaps a self locating, on closure, multi pin connector? I'm sure you have already considered these points so I'll be interested to see how you engineer them. Keep up the great work 👍. Robbob.
The next piece is what I can only describe as the dash board (what’s the nautical term?) Bridge? Anyway it’s the bit with all the knobs and levers that make it go. I chose to stick with ply construction throughout the build so will be using 1mm 3 ply. I copied all the dimensions from a cross section detail of the cabin instruments and controls and then made card models first to ensure everything fitted. I made spaces for the speed control and compass and drawn up detailed drgs of the instruments which I hope to make from 0.5mm stainless steel with back lighting of the dials and general lighting from LEDs. The cabin area will finish at the door to the galley kitchen.