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Model Boats Website Team
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Billings Kit - my 2nd boat build. This time I thought I'd challenge my skills and build a plank on frame boat rather than using an ABS hull. Fairmount Alpine is a 75M Ocean going tug used for heavy duty work. The model is 1:75 scale, so around 1metre long. As I started this some time ago (before I joined this website) I'll put some regular posts up to catch up to where I am now... still not finished! Kit comes with all timber laser cut, brass fittings, instructions etc. Extra purchases of course are the motors / ESCs / and other electronics. This model is large enough to accommodate a few ancillaries such as lighting / bow thruster etc. Although laser cut, some of the joints needed trimming, and I had to use some of my bigger clamps!
[Score: 9/10] 30"/4000g Aeronaut Pilot LKBM 04 Capable of 12mph and a runtime of 50mins Twin Propellors (4 Blade 30mm) Direct Drive to a Graupner 600 speed (4 Blade) Powered by NiMH (8.4v) 5Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through MTroniks (40Amps) ESC - Comments: Took me 7 months to build. Has twin esc so I can control each prop individually, twin rudders, a sound system, horn, working anchor windlass, 4 individually controlled lighting setups (cab / dashboard lighting, navigation, pilot and search lights), spinning radar etc. She gets up well on a plane, probably a bit over powered!
Pond will be drained Monday Nov.13th So had to go Nov 9th to check balance & running speeds all O/K she ran real great . So added a little more detail , Still needs running lights a fake horn & some lighting but that's something I can work on in the next 6 months . The end of my build log & thanks for all the Views & Responses .
This Titan model was built originally by my late father Don Newman in the 1950's from a Model Maker design. She has always sailed well and apart from some short lay-ups,she has remained active over the years. Various upgrades in her electronics and lighting mean that she is a very effective model for night runs. In1954, she was operated by H.M. Queen Elizabeth during an official visit to the Hydraulics Research Startion at Howbury Park
I went Saturday and found good attendance from the public, Traders and Clubs. Lighting was as good as any other show I have attended and I always enjoy talking to both clubs and traders to find out about models or new products. Every show I attend is a whole new experience and as a scratch builder it gives me an opportunity to find and discuss new parts/products and techniques. With the demise of many local model shops this is now one of the few opportunities for such advice and help. We all have expectations but really its up to us what we make of the show. I agree with Flack we either support the events or there won't be any.
I was also at the Blackpool Model Boat show on Saturday and was quite impressed with the show in general, It's always very easy to criticise venues and I accept that the Norbreck Castle is not perfect but I didn't have any problem with the lighting nor the number of Traders or exhibitors, I do like the fact that everything is on one level and easily negotiable. I am amazed that there are comparisons with the likes of Ellesmere Port and Haydock Park in particular as I have been to both and find negotiating the various separate rooms and different levels a nightmare, I always leave both venues wondering whether I have seen everything. As a modelling fraternity we are in danger of losing these exhibitions and having to rely on internet purchases.
I had a look at Blackpool show on Saturday. Sadly, it is not nearly as good as it used to be and there appeared to be no new ideas about featuring the show. I did get a few bits 'n bobs that I needed but I could also have got them elsewhere without paying £6 for the privilege. I thought the lighting was reasonable, although slightly darker in some corners. All in all, I thought Haydock Park was better (but more expensive) and I prefer Ellesmere Port over both of these.😉
Attended the event again this year. Wow! was impressed. 28 traders 21 clubs according to the brochure. The place was very busy and lots to see lots to buy. Lighting was good, refreshments available in the hotel front lounge. Not just boats but trucks etc in the other room next to main hall. Ian from Component Shop has really turned this event round. Hoylake Model Boat Club have ordered 10 tables for next year and will be attending. If you have been put off in the past give it a go next year. 😊
This is the unit I have and I did buy one switcher unit as well...Just in case! So have sound and horn in there just not wired yet, but would like to take up the lighting from the original board as well as add a little more. Thought I should put the new receiver up in the bridge as it is light and well away from water.................... You mention some posts back about using switch units I believe. The Tranny is 6 channel. What do you think? All the best . NPJ
Hello folks. Exciters not wired yet. I cannot see any markings on them to indicate which way to do it. RN is coming to my aid............ Battery fits there OK and for getting in and out, but may be a little heavy. The Boat in the bath does not show the waterline than well. Yes I do hope to have the Radar rotating and such a power units should be on its way. Re circuit board, I will look at that with your prompts in my hand and see how I fair. As you indicate, I would like to retain such as the present lighting, but do away with the receiver part. Cheers NPJ
If you are keeping the smoker, follow the leads into the circuit board and mark them same with the lighting. Cut close to the board and the same with the plug leads from the hull. Join them together (solder is best with heat shrink) that way you retain the plug and play to the superstructure. Also by removing the radio board a little of the top weight is removed.
Hi Neil, Don't know how Graham wired his but the simplest is series for each lighting circuit; minimum wiring and only one current limiting resistor calculated to set the specified operating current for the LEDs used. In a parallel circuit the resistor value must be calculated for the sum of the operating currents of all the LEDs in the circuit. Required Resistance = (Voltage Source - LED Forward Voltage) / Max LED Current or R = (Vs-Vf) / Imax As an example, a particular LED has a 3.0 volt forward voltage (Vf) and a maximum current rating of 20mA. It is to be driven with a 5.0 volt source. Therefore, R = (5.0 - 3.0) / .020 or R = 2.0 / .020 or R = 100 Ohms If you do not know the LED specs, typically, a 80-100 ohm resistor will do just fine. All you 'never wanted to know' about LEDs in model boats (or any other model!) you can find here - http://www.laureanno.com/RC/LED-assembly.htm Cheers Doug 😎