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>> Home > Tags > lights

lights
lighting
navigation light
searchlight
lights
LED Tug Mast Navigation Lights by Pete Lieutenant   Posted: 19 days ago
Hi, Doug: As “luck” would have it I managed to fall down several of our basement stairs last Fall (no pun intended, I promise. But I really hope it’s the “last fall” I ever take). I had a good hold of the railing & I don’t have any idea why I fell. Luckily it was only about six steps; it could have been much worse. As it is, though, I dislocated my right shoulder & tore the right biceps tendon loose from the bone. The dislocation was fixed with physical therapy but surgery via scope was needed to install two titanium anchors in the front of the shoulder bone. The tendon tatters were trimmed, then it was sutured to the anchors. Seeing that I can tie my shoes by myself again now I’m trying to get back to work on my tug. I’m still severely klutzy but I’m getting better every day & my fine motor skills are coming back OK. When the doctor told me I needed surgery I said I wanted a second opinion. He said: “OK, you’re ugly, too”. Then I asked him if I’d be able to play the violin when I’m all better. He said I shouldn’t have any problem playing at all. That’s great news for me seeing as I can’t play one now. Seriously, I do miss not being able to play my guitars. Well, that’s all I can write for now. I hope you’re doing really well & having great success with all of your projects. Take good care. Pete

Cabin detail part 6 panel light by mturpin013 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 22 days ago
Cabin detail part 6 panel light The panel light presented a difficult challenge in that I assume the real one has a tubular light fitting in it, difficult in 1/12 scale. However, creating the tube assembly was not difficult using some annealed 1/8” brass tube and making a bending jig, (simply a 1/8 grove milled using a ball ended slot drill into a piece of hardwood I formed the tube into the required shape. I used the back of the jig to hold the piece while I filled the tube half way through along it top inside edge @ 45 degrees this is where the LED tube will fit. The LED tube is from one of the new type LED garden light bulb that use a small solar panel to illuminate it during the during dark hours. Smashing the bulb leaves 4 filaments which can be used independently, these are very delicate and need the wires attaching very carefully finally feeding it into the brass tube and then after all this fiddling, if it still lights, epoxy it in place. The next job is to make some brackets to fix it to the instrument panel. The bracket was made from 1/8” bore tube and some 0.010” brass shim I drilled some holes in the sheet prior to cutting to size, this was done using only a 1/8” dia centre drill and then enlarged with a clock makers reamer until the tube fitted snugly through this was then soft soldered in place. The whole unit was then epoxied in place on the instrument panel. All the wiring for the panel LEDs can now be completed ready for connection to the random flashing circuit board. (this came as a kit for just £3:90) The circuit board is fastened to the panel with a sub-board made from a scrap piece of ply with PCB supporting pillars in the corners, when this is completed I will post a video of it working. The LEDs on the circuit board are only for testing and will be replaced with the panel LEDs.

Veron Tarpon by Biscuit Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 25 days ago
Well this Tarpon is coming along, still more work like lights and other bits and bobs but all going ok

Spring boat show by Aleks Apprentice   Posted: 29 days ago
Hi, I just emailed the waterways museum regards this year's spring model boat show and before I book my flights to the UK. Their terse response was that they will not be hosting the show this year or for the foreseeable future. Do you know if it will go ahead this year, and if so when and where ? Many thanks aleks

Nav. lights and smoker by Joe727 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
The navigational lights and the smoker still need to be final wired with a power switch for each. The amp draw on the smoker is about 2.2 Amps as measured with my meter, so I intend to use a 2 1/2 Amp Fuse. Will probably just use manual switch rather than remote just to keep it simple, we will see..... Cheers, Joe Joe

Can't stop adding stuff by Joe727 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Well, when I started this build I said it was just going to be a quick, easy build.....but I can't stop getting more ideas and adding on. Lights, now exhaust smoke! Could not resist taking time last night to try my hand at a homemade smoker. I was pleasantly surprised at how easy it was to build one and it works great. Then today I decided rather then put it inside the hull I would put it topside for easy access and to keep an eye on it....fires don't do well on boats. Mounted as shown, still in progress but I made an enclosure to cover it. Will fashion a new stack out of the white tube in the last photo. Now what else can I add...... Joe

Reassembly by Joe727 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Continuing on, I finished mounting the light bar, all lights are functioning. For some reason my iPad does not like LEDs and they don't photograph when lit. Made an exhaust stack out of brass tube, mitered the top, soldered and painted. Hull dry now so I mounted the superstructure onto the hatch, reinstalled the tow bits, switch and batteries, RX, motor, etc. Getting close to sea trials, maybe this week schedule permitting. Cheers, Joe

LED Nav. Lighting by Joe727 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Two days ago I put what I hope is the final paint on the hull, hatch and misc. parts. I like to let it sit for several days to cure, especially in cooler weather. I took the time to work out LED navigational lighting for my Brooklyn Tug and got that installed. I will photograph that tug later. Back to the springer tug, I had difficulty finding a good mounting spot for the starboard and port lighting so I decided to raise it on a light bar. Photos show the styrene structure in progress which will have the green and red side lights and a single white light on the top center post. Worked out the resistor values to reduce current and work off of my 6 volt supply, then soldered as shown. Fed the assembled LEDs through the plastic rectangular tunnel I created. The one photo I took with the red LED turned on is so bright that the camera just picked up a bright spot. I may have to reduce brightness but will test out in daylight first.... These LEDs are very bright and are 360 degree view! Ordered from "superbrigntleds.com" in order to get the full 360 as the ones at the local store were very limited to 18 to 60 degrees. Ordered red, green and white and they arrivedin about four days, great service. I have used this company several times and am happy with them, good to know. More to come, Joe

Bournville Illuminated Regatta by Aquaflite Lieutenant   Posted: 1 month ago
Bournville MBC Invite all RC model boaters to show off their models lights, if it floats and has lights on it we want to see it. Free to enter Light Refreshments Free Parking Disabled Access Contact Rob Fowler 07714517445

Electronics,wiring by Joe727 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
My batteries arrived, could not find locally so ordered through Walmart online. Two - 6volt 4.5AH, wired in parallel to give me 6v @ 9AH. Used inline fuse, prior to switch, then on to the esc, a Dynamite Tazar 15 T marine type. On/off switch will operate from outside so hatch will not have to be removed. Had some real nightmares trying to program this esc! Setup lights would not come on, went through all procedures, slept on it tried ecpvery website, tried again today, nothing. I was about to look into a new purchase, THEN LIKE MAGIC.... I mistakenly switched it to my zBrooklyn Tug mod on th TX which uses the same esc, and it startled me with the motor running and rudder moving. Everything worked great. So I just copied all of the settings into this build on the TX. HAPPY NOW Photo shows the mass of wires that allows me to shift the batteries for final ballasting, they will be tucked away neatly as build is finalized. Regards, Joe

Fairmount Alpine by jugge Lieutenant   Posted: 2 months ago
A Little bit forward , propshaft and rudders ar mounted and some things on the superstruktion , im going to start with the running lights tonight Have a nice day everybody // Jörgen

Wheelhouse by canabus Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi All Cracking on with the wheelhouse and playing with the LED lights. I drop the wheelhouse lights from 4.5 to 3 volts which made them look a bit more yellowish. Canabus

Internal wiring & bottom skins by mturpin013 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Rob, if all is OK maybe you have proved different to the current thinking, I hope so, because as you know electrics is complicated enough without having to consider the length of the wire, I'm happy if the bulb lights up, that's an achievement!!

Internal wiring & bottom skins by robbob Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Because I am keen to conceal as much of the wiring as possible I have decided to place the battery at the bow and the operational equipment at the stern, the engine on the original boat was central and covered with a soundproof box and this is convenient as the motor can be positioned and concealed in the same way. This means that some of the wires will have to run the full length of the boat and the easiest way to conceal them is to run them beneath the ‘box’ around which the hull is formed, and this needs to be done before the bottom skins are fitted. Holes were bored through the bulkhead formers under the port side of the hull and battery cables were run to the stern where the ESC will be and three motor wires from the ESC run to the centre, emerging near the motor position. For good measure I put in a servo cable and a separate draw wire just in case I needed to put more cabling in for any additional features, perhaps working navigation lights? Satisfied that I had all the cabling in place I was able to fit the bottom skins starting with the starboard side first. Before doing so I put a very slight 'hollow' in former F1 which should help blend the shape of the the hull where the ply skins meet the balsa blocks that will to be carved and shaped to form the bow. This can be seen in the last picture. The process of forming and fixing the skins is the same as for the side skins but in addition to the pins holding the skins in place I used some brown polythene ‘packing tape’ to pull the skins tightly against the bulkhead formers and strakes. The packing tape has a very high tensile strength and is ideal for this, and of course cheap and easy to remove. Once the aliphatic glue had set thoroughly overnight I removed the excess from the skins with a small block plane and finished them with my sanding plate. Before I fit the skin at the stern I will have to arrange the water cooling for the ESC, with the pickup just behind the prop and the outlet on the stern. I’ll cover that aspect in the next update.

Anteno 2 tug by mturpin013 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
I used an old cooker hood as the basis for my spray booth with the filters taken out and vented outside, and has built in lights. I also use it as my silver solder/brazing and small welding jobs using the back wall as one side with simple hardboard sides and a rotary table (old party susan) if you can remember them, it works really well and allows spraying in my workshop in the winter months.