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>> Home > Tags > lights

lights
lighting
navigation light
searchlight
lights
Hobby Engine 'Richardson' Tug Upgrade by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 days ago
Yep, a Large scale IC doing most of the work, RX/Decoder, and some power transistors for the outputs. Not easily mod-able 😡 Suggest you have a look at the little switch boards from Action (Component Shop) Neil. http://www.componentshop.co.uk/action-electronics/switches.h... I made my own several years ago using CMOS chips and little 5V relays, but then I'm just like that😉 The Motor Sound Unit I understand looks after itself as it's coupled into the ESC control. So you just need switch boards for lights (nav and deck/cabin lights), smoke, other sound boards, e.g foghorn and/or ship's bell from Action? Have fun, Doug

Hobby Engine 'Richardson' Tug Upgrade by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 days ago
Looks like all on one board so if you replace the Tx/Rx you will need some way to switch the lights/horn/sound unit. The motors will have their own Mixer/ESC(s) and a rudder servo, so 5 channels.

Twin motor control problem by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 days ago
John As you are using 2.4Ghz radios there is quite a long delay in the binding between Tx and Rx. The ESCs also perform a set up and I have noticed that this is often quicker than the radio. As a result the ESCs have no signal and can revert to a failsafe state. If you have correctly set up the ESC with the tx then it should retain this setting unless you press the set up button whilst the lights are flashing. I suspect this is at the root of the problem. To restore the settings to your set I suggest you use a separate rx battery, centre the throttle stick and trim and get the Tx/rx working together. Then switch on the ESC and whilst the lights are flashing press the set up button and move the throttle stick full forward (solid green) then full reverse (solid red) return to neutral solid red/green. If you now switch off the esc and rx battery and switch back on the ESC should have solid red/green light showing. Repeat with the other ESC and test. Switch off and connect both escs via the Y lead. You can use one ESC to provide the rx power but do disconnect one red lead. Centre the tx throttle and trim and make sure you switch on the ESC with the BEC connected first. Hopefully both ESCs will now have solid red/green leds. I use three Mtronic ESCs with my RMS Olympic and had a very similar problem. I suspect the change from bench to water is more to do with stick/trim alignment and longer binding time due to other 2.4 Tx working in close proximity at the sailing site. I look forward to hearing your efforts next wednesday - hopefully the next hurricane will have passed by then.

MFA TORPEDO 500 / BATTERY INFO by al2612 Seaman   Posted: 4 days ago
Tx Doug - Looks like another piece of kit to put on the shopping list. Previously had just used a charger from Component Shop and when the lights stopped "blinking" to me that was it. Nothing is ever that simple 😉

Layout and Limitations by NPJ Commander   Posted: 5 days ago
Layout and Limitations Although I am really quite desperate to get on and put a few bits in, it did strike me that before I mess the current systems up on the Tug, maybe I should find out how they work. So although I am leaving the Bridge/Wheelhouse until after the Hull layout is resolved, I need to check out what connections are made to what before I detach it from the Hull. So having a look in you see a busy circuit board and a plastic bottle! Pic 12 -16 What is needed is to determine which leads activate which features before I start chopping leads to separate Hull from Bridge. To this end I attached the standard battery and fired up the Tranny. I reconnected the leads that I had unplugged and switched the boat switch to on. Pic 17/18 Action of motors, lights in three sets and ‘smoker’ cables were identified, but I have not found the ‘horn’ yet. So that established what leads went to what and also raised the question for the future ‘what can be used later’. I noted that some cabling groups and routes from Hull to Bridge where given the ‘silicon treatment’ which I intend to reinstate before replacing the Deck. Having established how the setup works and what can possibly be retained, I removed the ‘standard’ battery, unplugged it all again and loaded potential ‘extras’ into the Hull to see how it would sit in the water. Now I can separate the Hull from the Bridge completely which enables me to have a good look at potential layout and consider weight and its distribution. I did in the early days mark the waterline as it was with standard equipment and also the CoG point fore/aft, for later comparisons. Forgot about Lateral but I assume centre line....................... Maybe pointless, but I made a drawing of the Hull and also laid out some of the components that may be used in the Hull itself. Pics 14/15. Currently the weight of these ‘extras’ amounts to 562 grams 19.8 ozs, from which must be deducted the ‘standard’ battery weight 104 grams 3.6 ozs, when considering real differences, so 458 grams, 16.2 ozs and still below waterline So I now have all these bits, the boat in three pieces and I am considering putting up a banner in the garage which would read... All the gear and no idea! Next move will be trial runs on the new motor control set up and checking out the sound system using the Transducers. NPJ

Another day of progress by Skydive130 Lieutenant   Posted: 5 days ago
A good day of adding detail to the superstructure. Todays acheivments included soldering the antenna mounts, antennas from carbon rod. all stanchion railings, horn, some grab handles, hatch handles. finished the day when bad light stopped play with a little paint touch up and some highlight dry brushing. Still to do, mount working searchlight, lifebelt, grab poles,nav lights, roof antennas, front hatch, radar mounting and motor for it with a few other tiny bits n bobs before laquer and windows.

Lights all wired up by NPJ Commander   Posted: 5 days ago
I get up this morning and all this help tumbles down. Great stuff fellas, really appreciated and will be read after breakfast. Will be posting on the site later today following some floating in the bath and measuring up. I was about to say "still a long way to go", but there again, I read yesterday of an 18 month build........... I am being patient..... Thanks to all. NPJ

Lights all wired up by GrahamP74 Commander   Posted: 5 days ago
Ok here we go... forward light example: I took 1 wire from each led and wrapped a small piece of copper wire round them then soldered into one. Then did the same for the others. Then connected to a 9v battery connector using plastic connection block... My son had been doing electrical circuits at school and wanted to help me...

Lights all wired up by Trillium Commander   Posted: 5 days ago
Hi NPJ, You may find the reference here to LED's and resistors useful. Roy http://www.confederationmarinemodellers.ca/new-this-month.ht...

Lights all wired up by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 5 days ago
Hi Neil, Don't know how Graham wired his but the simplest is series for each lighting circuit; minimum wiring and only one current limiting resistor calculated to set the specified operating current for the LEDs used. In a parallel circuit the resistor value must be calculated for the sum of the operating currents of all the LEDs in the circuit. Required Resistance = (Voltage Source - LED Forward Voltage) / Max LED Current or R = (Vs-Vf) / Imax As an example, a particular LED has a 3.0 volt forward voltage (Vf) and a maximum current rating of 20mA. It is to be driven with a 5.0 volt source. Therefore, R = (5.0 - 3.0) / .020 or R = 2.0 / .020 or R = 100 Ohms If you do not know the LED specs, typically, a 80-100 ohm resistor will do just fine. All you 'never wanted to know' about LEDs in model boats (or any other model!) you can find here - http://www.laureanno.com/RC/LED-assembly.htm Cheers Doug 😎

Lights all wired up by NPJ Commander   Posted: 5 days ago
Thank you for coming back so quickly. Do not concern yourself about not very elaborate, it looks really great. Impressive show. I assume you had to balance out the number of LEDs. Have they got to be in series or parallel? Sorry but I am very inexperienced in this stuff! All the best. NPJ

Lights all wired up by GrahamP74 Commander   Posted: 6 days ago
Hi, No I haven't but it's very simple.. The stern Lights are all on the gantry frame. I made a channel in the wood to disguise the wires. They go through a hole in the deck and connect to a 9v battery. The forward lights are all connected to another 9v battery which sits in a mounting on the u derided of the wheelhouse roof. It's very basic but they work and I am more than happy with the effect! The casings for all the lights are scratch built. Sorry it's not very elaborate!

Lights all wired up by NPJ Commander   Posted: 6 days ago
JUst seen this. Looks really good. Have you already posted the wiring diagram and voltage? I am looking at adding lighting wiring on a Tug. NPJ

Lights all wired up by GrahamP74 Commander   Posted: 6 days ago
Final check of lighting. Deck nicely illuminated for night trawling!

Painting commenced! by Skydive130 Lieutenant   Posted: 9 days ago
So, now onto the pleasant task of adding some colour to primed wood! White primer, followed by 3 light build up coats of VW Brilliant Orange. It’s also had a single gust of laquer. Will leave overnight to garden before masking off for the black panels. Will then start to retail paint and add all the exterior extras like lights, horn, searchlight, handrails, antennas etc.