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>> Home > Tags > lipo charge

lipo charge
lipo charge
royal charter
lipo charge
Charging NiMhs, one for Doug?... by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 days ago
Doug, what gave you the idea that I spent all that on my Spektrum DX5e? It cost me 45 quid from somewhere up North, brand new. The Rxs were, I thought, too much, so I got an Orange for 8 quid. I got the Spektrum because I was considering doing aircraft. 4 footers, scale, so not needing anything fancy, but costs of everything else stopped that. If they did a 2 function set cheap, I'd have had it. No chance selling the DX5e as it will have been superceded at least twice since I bought mine, probably at least once since I first removed it from its box! The Tx., isn't complicated. I was careful NOT to buy one that needed a degree in pooterism to operate. It's a toy boat fer Krissakes...go left, go right, speed up, slow down, stop, maybe go backuds, although my kind of real boats rarely do. I'd use my old REP single channel if some toad hadn't stole it. But it doesn't stand me in that much. This new Rx. which states DX5e compatibility is 7 quid. After that, if it don't work it will be back to the 27 meg. or nothing at all (much better exercise). As to the battery capacity thing, it is exactly the same to look at as the ones you linked me to, but, although it didn't say it didn't do Nixx, the fact is it doesn't. On the box is a row of x's where the facilities are shown under NiCd and NiMh. Sending it back would cost almost as much as the thing cost in the first place. In the unlikely event that I ever get any LiPos, it'll do for those. As to the NiMhs, I'll put them through a discharge recharge cycle on the imax thing according to what you and Haverlock have said. Then, just do the same when I've finished sailing. I use this stuff so rarely I suppose I should think again about whether to get any more stuff at all. Is it possible to constantly cycle the batteries during the long winter fallow period? Should they be discharged by running a motor or can one trust the imax to do the job? Once again, thanks for your time, Doug. I do appreciate your efforts to help out the Luddite. BTW, when I bought the DX5e it really was the cheapest option, trust me! Now, I'd probably get one of those cheapies that are sold by the same outfit I bought my DX5e from, but they weren't around then. Cheers, Martin

Charging NiMhs, one for Doug?... by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 days ago
Evenin' Martin, Oh dear oh dear oh dear! 😲 There is some good advice above, but maybe not optimally expressed for use by a Luddite! Sorry guys but this might be a relatively long post to separate the wheat from the chaff, explode a few myths and resolve this little conundrum of Martin's! One thing at a time! NUMBER1. THE RADIO- Dear Martin: Whatever possessed a self confessed Luddite and Scrooge like you to spring a large chunk of your hard earned pension on one of the most expensive and complex RC sets on the market in the first place???? I bought a Spektrum DX6 on impulse a few years ago while strolling around Conrad here in Munich. I've regretted it ever since. In retrospect it was way too expensive >600€, and complex. It is intended for the Fly Boys, as unfortunately most sets are these days. I have still not successfully programmed it to do what I want to do, instead of what it is pre-programmed to do for helis and fixed wing aircraft. Not even with it's own Spektrum RX, let alone a 'foreign' RX like Orange. So I have not yet risked it in a model. Definitely NOT my Catalina. Since then I have bought a Turnigy I6. Which does the same as the Spektrum, works fine with my Orange RX with giro for the Catalina😉, cost only 69€ (is now available for around 33 quid😡) and within a few hours I had it programmed and tested to do all I want in my destroyer and Sea Scout.👍 In short: the Spektrum is way way way Overkill for your yacht or Fire Float or similar, where you will only ever want rudder and sail servo / winch or rudder and speed control. So flog the Spektrum and get a nice simple (and cheap😉) 2 or 4 channel set. I can't imagine you ever wanting to start building special effects into your models so 2 (max 4) channels is all you will probably ever need. Stick your Spektrum on eBay, maybe you'll get at least a 100 quid for it. If you still want to go 2.4Gig get yourself a Turnigy i6 set with RX, 6 ch but cheap enough and I can help you directly with binding and programming from experience - I have a good English manual with no Chenglish gobbledygook. If not and you still have a working 27 or 40MHz FM set (40 would be better) use that. Where you sail, all alone, who's going to bother you or be bothered? BTW: Yes the Spektrum TX IS DSM2 and DSX compatible BUT you have to tell it what you want to use!!! Frankly I think trying that with a non-Spektrum RX is risky - especially first time out and for a novice Luddite😉 NUMBER 2. THE NiMh BATTERY- Voltage is not a reliable indication of battery charge / remaining capacity. After use a battery will recover slightly when at rest and the open terminal (off load) voltage will rise, often to the nominal voltage or slightly above. This is NO indicator of remaining charge as when a load is applied the voltage will drop again rapidly, the higher the current drawn the faster the voltage drops. If it goes below 1.0V per cell the battery will be permanently damaged and never regain it's original capacity. Haverlock is dead right about batteries losing charge when not used or regularly recharged. An NiMh batt loses charge at the rate of about 1% per day so after 3 months or so you can send it to the great recycling depot in the sky and buy a new one. Periodic cycling, discharge / charge prevents / minimises this - see care hints I posted above. And yes, NiMh do have that irritating Memory effect🤔 albeit not so pronounced as with NiCads. Lipos apparently not, but I ain't seen any evidence yet - the jury is still out! Sooo - ignore the 6.37V and run the batt through a discharge and full charge cycle. If your new NiMh batt has not yet been cycled and charged I would bet that it's present capacity is about 45%. See example below (and in attached pic) of one of my new 4.8V (nom) NiMh RX batts. NUMBER 3. THE CAPACITY CHECKER - "Glorified voltmeter" ? Where did the 6.37V reading come from if not from your 'new toy'? If it is showing volts it should also be showing capacity in %age. If you received the wrong thing it's not the "bloody electrics" but the bloody nit who packed and sent it that's at fault. Before you send it back check the below😉 Send me a photo of the Checker you have and with your battery plugged in so I can see what's happening on the display. Otherwise we are all poking about in the dark (Are we back to Jules and his friend Sandy😉😲) The link I sent you was for a checker exactly the same as mine except for the labelling! As you can see in my photo, properly connected it shows the terminal voltage and the remaining capacity (charge level) of the battery pack. Forget the Nixx (=2 Ni possibilities) display, that just means 'It ain't a LiXX' (3 Li- pissibolities). Attached photo shows a brand new 4 cell NiMh RX pack 4.8V (Nominal) connected to one of my Checkers. As you can see the voltage shown is 5.19V, according to the popular 'folklore' that would seem to indicate FULL charge. Unfortunately not🤔 Capacity indication is 45% which is normal for brand new batteries in storage and transit. Explanation thereof - see above! RE: " If it can do LiPos, why not the relatively simpler NiMhs?" a) the LiPo pack has a different chemistry and construction which requires different input circuitry on the checker, b) LiPos need balancing and are fitted with Balancer Plugs which connect to the multipin connectors on the checker. Each pin connects to one cell of the LiPo so that they can be monitored individually. LiPo chargers use this to balance the cells to within 0.01V (100mV) or less by adjusting the charge / discharge currents to each cell. The checkers use this to show you the individual cell voltages and charge states. A big difference, i.e.lower V and capacity, indicates cells with faults, e.g. higher internal resistance, or a discharged pack which needs charging and balancing. NiMh packs don't usually have this facility to measure individual cells. They are thus connected to a separate input on the checker which can then only show total pack terminal voltage and capacity. BTW: if you can get it passed 'THE Management' store your battery packs in the fridge😲 The 'coolth' slows down the rate of self discharge, which is a function of the battery internal resistance, which reduces slightly with reduced temperature😉 Enough for now, back to stripping my PTB for it's Midlife Refit! Cheers, Doug 😎 PS Martin: Just saw your post about another RX. Why the hell not buy a Spektrum designed Rx guaranteed to work with their TX? Or better still; flog the Spektrum and get a nice simple Turnigy set as above, also recommended by Ron, albeit the 9 ch version. All this frigging about with 'claimed compatible' bits and pieces just wastes money and time, fogs the issue and don't prove nutt'n!

Charging NiMhs, one for Doug?... by kmbcsecretary Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 days ago
hi martin using the imax b6 for the basics is pretty simple once you switch it on you short press the first button (battery type) to select the type of battery lipo,nihm,nicd,leadgel once you have selected your battery type and all leads are connected just long press the last button on the right (start) and it well start charging the battery, but if charging a lipo you will need to short press the start button again for it to start charging.if you want to stop the charger mid way just short press the battery type button. hope this helps Ron

Charging NiMhs, one for Doug?... by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 days ago
Hi Martin, 1. What the blue blazes is a wall wart? 🤔 2. You can't do any harm to the RC gear with an under charged battery👍 But if you use it before charging it you may drive it below it's damage threshold of 1.1V per cell if you use it too much in that state. A word of warning: some RXs and ESCs don't like more than 6.0V (e.g. Action electronics/Component Shop) and a fully charged NiMh can be more than that so check the specs of your RX and ESC first! 3. Get yourself a simple battery capacity checker, see attached pics of the two I have. As you can see, they all look the same except for plastic colour and brand name. They only cost few quid and save a lot of ruined batteries and cost/heartache😉 Available from HobbyKing etc etc. They can check voltage and capacity. For LiPos they check individual cells. For NiCad or NiMh it just checks total voltage and capacity as most NiMh don't have external connections to individual cells like the LiPos do for balancing the cells. As I still have some hi power NiMh drive batteries, for ESCs that are not LiPo safe, I made a simple JR/Tamiya adaptor to connect to the monitor. In my pics you can see the % charge / capacity display. Some show only around 46% cos they are 'as delivered' with a storage charge only. Before use they need fully charging. 4. Re Charger: Just downloaded the manual - I'll get back to you on that when I've read it. Now it's 'Eat'n time' 😁 Cheers, Doug 😎

What Li-po? by Tica Lieutenant   Posted: 14 days ago
It's a great old-timer ( It was my boy dream back in time, BTW s... I'm getting old 😱) Stay with 540's and go for LiPo's, for the difference in weight vs capacity you will get a very long time on the water. But you need to get a proper high quality balancing charger to take care of your LiPo's. I have changed to LiPo's in almost all my models.

What Li-po? by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 15 days ago
Hi Yngvegr, basically I agree with Flack👍 But if you want to go step by step and test it with the 540s first (will give you a Datum to compare with brushless at a later stage) then- Brushed have no problem with LiPos, or any other battery chemistry for that matter😉 For the voltage anything from 6 to 12V is fine for the 540. I have two 540s in my 135cm destroyer and she ran just fine on a 6VSLA, with a relay to switch a second one in series for 'All Ahead Emergency'! Higher capacity brings not only more sailing time but also more weight! Suggest you weigh the existing batteries and check the waterline and trim in the 'domestic test tank' before you buy the biggest batts you can find😉 If you do go LiPo don't forget to buy an appropriate charger and a Capacity Tester as well!!! Whatever you do, have fun doing it, cheers Doug 😎

Dremel Battery Pack! by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 26 days ago
Here in Old Munich as well, washed out my Sea Scout trial planned for today😭 Looks like being and rainy and thundery week. Got everything packed in the rucksack ready to go if it brightens up; now let me see ... selection of drive batteries to test, in LiPo bag - check, Capacity / cell tester - check, TX and spare batts - check, Camcorder (batt fully charged) - check, Drying cloth - check, Basic tool set & Mini-multimeter- check, Bath towel if I have to swim again - 😡 Inflatable rescue kayak - !? Essential provisions (just a wee dram Officer) 😋 - check, Foam block boat stand - check, OH!! THE BOAT!! 😲 Might stick the PTB in the car as well, just to try it before I start on the reno and upgrade / conversion to PT109. In for a penny .....! Happy Dremelling Ed, mind yer fingers! Cheers Doug 😎

Radio in a yacht by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 29 days ago
Right chaps, firstly many thanks for your suggestions. I won't be doing LiPos, because the charging is too complicated for me. I can't read the instructions of my fancy charger so it remains in its box. I forgot that I can get NiMhs in sealed packs, so that'll be something I get hold of, although the shop had more out of stock than in! Secretary, I liked the look of that servo you linked me to and will be getting one. Norman, I have today picked up my Spektrum DX5e from my daughter's place where it was in store. I found it whilst looking for something else as always! I already have the Orange Rx and can now try binding it, when I have some batteries for both items. I also have 27meg gear, three different lots and WILL be using it in my classic speedboat models. I waste as little as possible! I have now settled on a continuous loop for the sail control, which doesn't need spring tension, though haven't decided a good way to attach the sheets to the loop or how to tell when the loop has gone as far as it dare before getting a bit mixed up. But I have sorted out the plank system by making one section trap a second, both of which can be removed separately. I found a gear and shaft out of an old printer which I chucked in the lathe and turned a groove in for the loop line. Then I found a use finally for that 6mm ball race I've had in my drill drawer for years! It was an interference fit on the shaft. I had some PTFE plate for another task and in some spare I made a hole that the ball race pushes into a treat, below it an identical plate supports the other end of the shaft, PTFE being very low friction. All this levels the return "pulley" with the servo drum. I only have a limited length of run for the loop line, but it should be enough. It's all I got anyway. About 10" between pulley and drum centres. If I attach the sheet part way down the boom instead of the end I should have enough movement. So, progress. My son-in-law supplied some bike gear cable for the rudder actuation as the rudder stock is at an extreme, typically cutter, angle. A hunt through the supplies (Pringles tins) gave up enough aluminium tube to guide the cable. Alas, I installed with lots of epoxy the rudder tube and it turns out to be 4.5mm bore! Gawd knows where that came from. The tube built into the back of the rudder itself is 4 mm. So that'll be some lathe work ahead. All good fun between the gardening chores. Cheers, Martin

Radio in a yacht by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Hi all, Whilst I can make almost anything, I have absolutely no idea how to install modern R/C gear in a model, much less a yacht. I have an Orange Rx which has 6 channels for some reason, but I only need 2. BTW, when did functions become channels? I grew up with proportional being 2 channels per function. Anyway, that's a 2.4 doodah. I have a GWS sail winch a drum jobbie. I also have a few different servos for the rudder, but I don't know what voltage they are. I will stuff 4 pen cells in a holder and therefore get 4.8 volts, is that right? This will all fit a treat on a removable piece of ply which I can secure with a slider at one end and a wingnut at tother. Said ply with all gear will slide through the main companionway with that item removed. So, how do I know which servos will work for steering? Will they work with a 2.4 Gg set? Or must I buy new? Will the Rx be OK sited near the battery pack and servos? And how the hell does one "bind" the Tx to the Rx? I've had the Tx for 3 years and it ain't yet out of its box. It's a Spektrum Dx5e. I'm using NiMhs in the battery pack as I don't understand LiPos and will only be using the yacht occasionally. And I can charge NiMhs with a wall charger. I have fancy metallic blue thing that does everything, but the Chenglish instructions defeated me, so it hasn't been out of its box either. (Get the impression I ain't big on working models, folks?) Any info/instructions/encouragement gratefully recieved. And anything helpful about rigging the damned thing under the deck is welcome too! No idea where to start there. I have very limited space through companionways and deck lights which are all removable, but smallish, if evenly spaced. Cheers, Martin

It's a sad day!. by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Oliver Tiger and Gannet? Oh be still my beating heart! I remember seeing a Gannet and a Channel Island Special at Victoria when I was a kid with my Dad. Even he was impressed. And Olive Cockman had a Westbury Seal she'd built herself and fitted in a large cruiser, which she used for straight running and steering, where you nominated a spot on the lake side and set off your model with a fixed rudder. The nearer you got to your nominated spot the more points you got. Never hear of it these days. R/C doesn't appeal to me apart from steering a yacht, although free-sailing is still appealing to me. I have engines, but I haven't got any in a boat as I could never get the things to start. I just like having them around and running them screwed to an outbuilding, when they'll run! I can't be doing with all the fuss of LiPos and charging them properly. Too expensive, so it's NiMhs for me, charged in a wall charger. but it's really building stuff I like to do. Martin

LiPo batteries by ronrees Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi all, Lithium-Ion and Li-Po batteries do not take kindly to being stored long term fully charged. When they are new they will do it but after 2 to 3 years of intermittant use, can start to swell a bit and that is where the dangers start. When you give these cells the final run of the season and they show a charge in the the 3.3 to 3.5 (or so) volts per cell then they can be stored relatively safely. (This is called a holding or factory charge) Re start them with a balanced charge before you next use them. Do not constantly fast charge them as thi could induce swelling of the pack earlier. The old Ammo box is a good idea, any strong metal box will do but store them where it does not get very hot or very cold and ideally not in the house. Lipo cells are accepted as hand luggage by most airlines and a holding charge is recommended when flying, so remember to take a small 12v DC balance charger or 'Intelligent' charger with you to other countries, you will always be sure of a power supply, like a car battery even where the mains voltage is different. Small black plug-in cell monitors are readily available from places like Component shop and are a good guide to cell condition. One is these is quite essential as we use these cells more and more. Cheers, hope this helps. Ron.

LiPo batteries by stormin Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 2 months ago
Not sure it's a good idea to leave your lipos for that length of time with a full charge, I personally, put my lipo batteries into "storage" mode otherwise you may find they expand if left fully charged for long periods. I may stand corrected. X mod rifle range warden, I to use old .762 ammo boxes to store my lipos👍

WL 915 by CB90 Commander   Posted: 2 months ago
[Score: 5/10] 17"/1000g WL 915 Capable of 15mph and a runtime of 10mins Single Propellor (2 Blade X Type 30mm) Direct Drive to a outrunner (2 Blade X Type) Powered by LiPoly (11.1v) 1Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through unknown (30Amps) ESC - Comments: WL 915 ready to run Brushless 2.4GHz RTR Electric RC Speed Boat. This RC boat is capable of reaching speeds up to 25MPH and anti-capsizing technology? The flood chamber in this boat causes the boat to struggle to get up on the plane, in the end I filled it with foam, and put in a new rudder offset to the right, it now goes well, and I haven't flipped it yet! Features: •Electric Powered •Capable Of Up To 25MPH? •2.4GHz Transmitter •11.1V 1200mAh LiPo Rechargeable Battery •Balance Charger Specifications: •Length: 17.25 Inches •Width: 6.8 Inches •Height: 4.7 Inches I will be modifying this little boat as it has a few annoying problems they are: 1. The flood chamber fills quickly and once full hampers the boat in accelerating and getting on the plane. 2. You cannot run the boat slowly as the flood chamber fills 3. The self righting is not 100 percent reliable. 4. Binding is initially difficult Mods a. Replace cabin so boat lies flat when inverted. so able to use rudder extension to steer when upside-down. b. Racing rudder side position out of prop-wash and aids torque effects. c. Fill float chamber with foam so gets on the plane quickly. d. Cut down rudder as too long (95mm) to 65mm. The cabin will be finished and painted properly after testing. On testing the rudder was reduced and performed well once it got going but still have problems getting it up on a plan it feel this could be a balance issue, needs more mass at the stern.

LiPo batteries by kmbcsecretary Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
I use lipo batteries in my transmitter and last year I had to take time away from the hobby because of my health. When I checked my transmitter the battery was still showing 10v on a 11.1v lipo this is a full year after last charge so you should be fine for 4 months as long as it's charged before it's left in storage.

LiPo batteries by MouldBuilder Commander   Posted: 2 months ago
Please can I get some advice on LiPo batteries. I intend to buy a 3300-5000mAh battery to run an offshore power boat model. I will be taking the battery with me to Hungary to use on my local river which I have found is ok as hand luggage properly protected from short circuit. My problem is that at present, I only go there three time a year so the battery would remain unused for 4 months at a time. If I leave the battery with a safety charge, will it last for four months unused or will it fall below the critical voltage. If it is felt that it will not hold the charge, I will have to carry it with me forward and back. Thanks.😊