Cookies used in this website are gluten free, wheat free and dairy free. By using this website you agree to our use of cookies. More Info
Guest
Login Below
Join Us On Social Media!
   
Get The Model Boats App!
Apple App Store
Android app on Google Play


Help Support This Website
£
or enter custom amount

(Non Contributor)

Help support this free
website and donate.



£285 a year is needed to keep the website and apps online. Please consider donating £5 or more to help towards these fees.
All donations are securely managed through PayPal. Amounts donated are not published online.

Many thanks for your kind support.

Model Boats Website Team


Donation History
December 2018: 4 people
November 2018: 11 people
October 2018: 9 people
September 2018: 13 people
August 2018: 5 people
July 2018: 8 people
June 2018: 8 people
May 2018: 7 people
April 2018: 24 people
March 2018: 11 people


Unique Visitors This Month

Website Members

Terms and Conditions
Privacy Policy
Advertising
Contact


Model Boats Website
Active Users (11)
Login or Register
To Remove This Ad

Login or Register
To Remove This Ad
>> Home > Tags > lipo charge

lipo charge
charger
lipo charge
royal charter
lipo
lipo charge
aeronaut classic by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 14 days ago
Hi Sandgrounder, Good stuff from Canabus BUT- If you are going to parallel connect batteries there are some safety rules to observe to prevent potential fires on board - ESPECIALLY IF USING TWO LiPos!! The two batteries must be identical types with the same capacity and state of charge. Otherwise the one with higher voltage will try to charge the other. This can result in high currents which represent a high fire risk - most especially with LiPo Power 😡 To prevent this you need a pair of high current blocking diodes between the batteries - fast Schottky diodes. If you are electronically minded this is easy to do yourself. If not, Component Shop market an Action Electronics module to do the job. Spec attached as PDF. Link to purchase is below You can buy the board here (No I don't have shares in the company but have used several A.E. modules and they are well made good quality👍) https://www.componentshop.co.uk/p103-parallel-power-board.ht... I think 15 quid is a good price to protect the rest of your investment 😉 Have fun, cheers, Doug 😎

All hooked up, nowt happens... by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 26 days ago
Hi Martin, Looks like this one XXD HW30A 30A Brushless Motor ESC For Airplane Quadcopter Which means it ain't got no backuds! But I don't suppose that bothers you. Attached is the manual as pdf. Before you can run the ESC you have to program the type of battery; LiPo or NiMH. The ESC then sets the correct cut off voltage to protect the battery from deep discharge. See second page of pdf file for instructions. The ESC has a 5V 2A BEC. If you use a separate RX battery you MUST disconnect the small red wire from the RX plug! Bon chance, Cheers, Doug 😎

RC....mixers? And other unknowns.. by BW3 Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 2 months ago
Ok... Currently trying to build a Itaieri Schnellboot, ...but am questioning if what little I think I know to be correct/ workable... I have amassed the following : 3- Hobbyking ST3007 1100KV brushless motors each direct drive to 32mm plastic props.... (2 right hand drive and 1 left hand drive props... swapped over leads on on motor to get it to run as yet untested the left hand prop) 3- Turnigy nano tech 3s 3000mh 25-50C Lipo ( Have got a balance charger and board , flame proof charge bag , battery voltage check/ alarm units, and will check and charge them await the only local help I have in RC / lips battery a helicopter flyer who has no experience with RC boats ) I just read the post on WTail mixer and wonder if I need that or if my current unkowning idea to just connect all 3 ESC ‘s together to one channel on the radio , again was give Eflite Blade SR HP6DSM 2.4GHz to try out ,Will this unit work or do I need something else , currently will/ can use all 6 channels but would / could use more if I had them ... last time I had anything to do with RC was a a kid/ teen and back then you had ground radios and flight radios and the two should not be mixed .. Ok please advise , how far off am I or am I still within range of keeping it simple ? Thanks All Bill

Launch ELAINE, by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
Hi Colin, As discussed on the phone; 2V grid bias, 90V anode supply! In those days they had 90V dry batteries, they musta run it 'sumow'! 😁 Don't give up so easy! Nowadays how about a 24S LiPo? Or even Martin's 'big box' solution. http://www.batterysupports.com/lion-lipo-nbsp-88v-nbsp-24s-c... 24V chargers / balancers won't be cheap though🤔 2V is no sweat; 2V SLA, a la Glow Plug starter. How big is the boat an' how much weight can she carry? My first car radio was an ancient Echo valve job, with an inductive inverter bolted under the dash to produce the 90-100v for the bottles. Took me ages to find a way to mount it so it didn't make the whole dash hum like a swarm of bees😲 Later there was briefly a generation of 'low voltage' valves. Soon superseded by transistors from 1948 on. (And NO I'm not pre '48 vintage, well not quite!😉) Looking forward to your progress reports. Would really love to witness one of your displays. Please keep me posted about dates. All the best to you both, Cheers, Doug 😎 PS building a transmitter to match won't be easy. A TX on the right frequency is relatively easy, the tricky bit is the 'modulation' for the control functions! Hats off to your guy 'up the road' if he manages it! I'd really really love to see THAT!

LiPo batteries by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 months ago
Hi Pete, welcome er Home?😉 I'm not too surprised at your results with the new LiPos. That's exactly why it is recommended to put new LiPos through about min 6 max 10 charge / discharge cycles to 'condition' them, i.e. get 'em used to their working life😉 I'm not surprised at the short run times either. I seem to recall you have two hefty motors in your boat! Let's say (for simplicity) the motors draw 1.8A each. Therefore one motor would (theoretically!) run max 1 hour on a fully charged 1800mAh (1.8Ah) battery. Two such motors only half an hour etc etc. If (more realistically) they draw 10A together (probably more!) then they can theoretically run at that current for 0.18h or 10.8 minutes on a fully charged battery. QED. Theoretically cos you don't want to empty the battery and run it into 'Deep Discharge', i.e. less than MINIMUM 2.7V per cell. They don't like that and get stroppy; don't charge properly or worse 😲 You get the drift! 😉 If there's a danger of the river freezing over - you've got 4 months to build an Ice Breaker😁😁So get cracking😉 Cheers, Doug 😎

Graupner Jumbo 540 motors by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 months ago
hi Will, I agree with replacing the SLA. If you don't want to go LiPo cos of chargers etc etc how about a 5 cell 6V NiMh? much lighter than the SLA For the ESC switch to the Mtroniks Viper Marine Micro 10. That handles motors up to 550 can size, 10A motor limit, and runs off 4.8 to 12V 👍👍 I use these very happily on ships running 2 or 4 540s. A destroyer and a cruiser. Both about 54". http://www.mtroniks.net/prod/Boat-Speed-Controls/Viper-micro... You can get 'em about 5 quid cheaper here https://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/acatalog/Mtroniks-marin... There are also 15 and 20A versions if you want to run both motors off one ESC 😉 Cheers, Doug 😎

LiPo batteries by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 months ago
A chaque un a son goût John 😉 I'm not tooo surprised at your NiMh results. But I also think that you are correct that they won't last the proverbial 5 minutes on load. I had a similar experience last year when I retired and took stock of everything lying around in boxes and shelves in the so called workshop😲 Some also measured above the 'dead' voltage but collapsed within seconds of applying a load; a 540 motor running offload. They were consigned to the Great Recycling Centre in the sky 🤔 The NiCads had preceded them by a decade or so! Since then I've restocked with LiPos where I have brushless and LiPo safe ESCs and NiMh for the 'brushed ships with older pre Lixx EScs. For heavier jobs like Graf Spee (3 x 600), HMS Belfast (4! x 385), U25 (2 x 385) I've restocked with 6V 4Ah SLAs. Have started compiling an XL spreadsheet to keep track of them; when last used / charged etc. Oooops! Just discovered that Grauer Burgunder is an excellent cleaner for my inductive mouse pad 😲 Prost allseits! Doug 😎

LiPo batteries by onetenor Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 months ago
I don't intend using Lipos when I get back to actually boating and flying as I feel they are too much bother. Lion orABC or similar for me I think.I'll have to think more on it. I have Nimhs and A FEW Nicads .The Nimhs I know for certain are 13 yrs old at least and are showing 11.2v at 82% charge despite not being charged for 4 yrs. The Nicads 9.4v and 42% charge. Not as good; as we might expect but the others really surprised me when I metered them out.8 yrs lying in a blokes planes,boats and boxes and I got them 5 yrs ago.I charged them all and they've not been charged since.We'll have to see what happens under load etc. They might not last 5mins.🤔 John O/T👍 I know some of you won't believe me so tuff. J😎

LiPo batteries by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 months ago
Hi Pete, Do you have a Battery Capacity Checker? Like in the pics? Open circuit voltage is NOT a reliable indication of the battery's charge state😲 As you can see in the pics my two bats, 1 LiPo one NiMh, both show voltages above the nominal value. But the capacity / charge state less than half!! Be warned! Believe I did suggest to you to note the capacities before you left Hungary last time. Whatever - Have Fun😉 Cheers, Doug

Which battery? by Brianaro Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 5 months ago
Thank you for that, it has helped a lot. I have liPo in another fast boat and do worry about the safety, I keep and charge it in a fire proof bag. I will need weight at the front of the boat so Lead Acid will probably assist. The build is good fun. Thanks again

Which battery? by marlina2 Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 5 months ago
I tend to use LiPo's but they can be temperamental and need the correct charger. They are smaller and lighter than NiMH and give you a much greater output. NiMH are similar in size to LiPo but are heavier and will not have the same sort of power available. Lead acid are the easiest to use in terms of charging but are much heavier and larger then the other 2 types but tend to be cheaper. Lead acid are a good option if you need the ballast or are not limited on physical size. Cost is also a consideration a good quality charger can be an hefty investment but will serve you well and if you buy the correct type will charge/discharge any battery type that you have. I have heard horror stories about LiPo's bursting into flames, which my son did with his RC car. this was down to him not understanding this type of battery. I have not had good results in terms of endurance with NiMh but Lipo's if correctly selected will last much longer, a word of warning here though, they will stop working suddenly with no indication like running slow etc so if using LiPo's you will, need an alarm on each battery. Lead acid is much easier to in terms of Voltage either 6 or 12v with real problems when connecting them in series or parallel for use or charging, a little harder with the other two types but not impossible. This has probably confused you even more but I am sure you will come the correct battery. I have to confess I have an interest in this build as I intend it to be my next project👍

LED Tug Mast Navigation Lights by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 5 months ago
Hi Pete, since you are in the US try here, the OTHER RS😉:- https://www.radioshack.com/pages/search-results?findify_limi... Personally I prefer stranded wire as it is more flexible and less prone to break if you often have to remove and remake connections, like when you take the cabin off! It's slightly thicker so it's more a question of 'Will it fit?' https://www.radioshack.com/products/22-gauge-hookup-wire-3-p... Some model shops have (or used to!) a really thin stranded wire, as used for tiny 'rice grain' bulbs'. 2nd question: I assume your tug has an 800mAh NiMh battery like mine did. Correct me if I'm wrong, I don't know the new models. I propose to change mine for a 2200mAh NiMh. Can't use LiPo cos the Brushed ESC isn't LiPo safe; i.e. with built in cut off if the battery falls to 3.0V per cell - lowest safe LiPo discharge voltage. 3rd Question - changing motors; I've often wondered that!😲 Up to now I don't see any reason to. Maybe those guys want to enter Towing Competitions!? I don't. Also some folks are just not happy unless they are tinkering and 'improving' 😉 I might try to quieten the gearbox down a bit though 🤔 Teflon grease perhaps!? Cheers, Doug 😎

Longer run time by Haverlock Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 5 months ago
Your question does not have simple answers have you used a watt meter to see the current your motor is drawing at full throttle? With any installation its a good idea to do that test since its a good way to match motor and prop. LiPo batteries have a better current delivery than lead acid BUT you do need to be careful about end voltages so as not to damage the battery. Many ESC have a voltage cut off built in to protect LiPo batteries it may be your hitting that limit with your lead acid battery. The simplest solution to your problem is to look at the Amp/hour rating of your existing battery and get something with a higher rating. Going LiPo can give a much higher rating with a LOT less weight. The downside being the need for a special charger and the need to be careful about storage and end point voltages. As to putting 2 batteries in series to get a higher voltage yes you can BUT increasing the voltage to a brushless motor requires you match the prop to the new voltage running on the existing prop will probably cook the motor. How hot is your brushless running now? Outrunners generally can swing a bigger prop than inrunners.

Longer run time by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 5 months ago
Hi, Lead acid doesn't like delivering the high currents brushless motors want. They are more suited to long term low currents. Go for a LiPo, 3 or 4S, something 7AH plus should keep you going for a while. Don't put batteries in parallel as one will inevitably try to charge the other, unless you have a hi power diode board in between them to prevent that. Cheers, Doug 😎

Charging NiMhs, one for Doug?... by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 6 months ago
Thanks Doug, I'll copy that down and pin it to the wall! H, the LiPo in the TX has just 4 gold pads on one end. No way to charge it anywhere else. Martin