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>> Home > Tags > lipo charge

lipo charge
lipo charge
royal charter
lipo charge
MFA TORPEDO 500 / BATTERY INFO by Haverlock Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 days ago
put a watt meter on your shopping list please. They are not expensive and will give you an informed idea of the current drawn etc. Remember LIPO batteries should not be discharged below around 3.3V per cell else they DIE.

MFA TORPEDO 500 / BATTERY INFO by al2612 Seaman   Posted: 5 days ago
First attempt at a full scratch build, a 32" Downeast / Lobster boat style hull in ply, to be built to my own design as a picnic / fun boat. Have acquired an MFA Torpedo 500 and a 40mm 4 blade Raboesch prop, 175 series I think. Hoping to run direct drive. Any advice on battery size voltage and Mah to get a turn of speed if required and a reasonable run time. Lipo preferably as I have a 2/3 cell charger from a previous project and limited space only in front third of hull. TX for any advice received

Naval History - PQ17 by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Hi John, no sweat! I'd noticed you were looking at the 'Battery Charging' thread!😉 Your experience mirrors mine, get quality and treat 'em right and they last for yonks. BTW: LiPos should be stored with only ~50% charge! Like the "bob up again" quote 👍 Typically British old chap! Stiff upper lip and all that😉 Cheers Doug 😎 PS I believe Revell have brought out a new Premium version with lots more detail and etch parts. Shucks! I already have the original and have also bought various Great Little Ships etch and cast upgrade sets 🤔

Sea Queen refurbishment by EAGLE Lieutenant   Posted: 1 month ago
Hi It must be something about this month, charging a lipo all went well, charge finished, felt just warm, tidied up, slipped battery into holder and went my tot, next thing the smoke alarm went off, got it on shovel and outside. First one in our street with fireworks, so scratch one Thames water taxi, and a blo***ng of swbo, all a wright off. Regards Dave 😭😭😭

General sailing by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi Dave, Thanks 😊 Have to admit that I also found the markings confusing! 🤔 But 120 or 240 A is irrelevant to me anyway as I'm unlikely to demand more than 10 or 20A from them. The rating was 8A by the way, which x30 gives the 240! Agree, it don't make sense. Am now rechecking the markings on all my other LiPos 😉 Racing batteries; agreed but not my thing, I'm a scale man. Overnight charging; I'm a 'night owl' 😉 but agree re Lixx. I also charge in a 'LiPo safe bag or box! My chargers have the same facilities, essential for Lixx care. I can also set a maximum time limit for any type of battery. Hope we've managed to clear up some confusion. Cheers Doug 😎 PS You didn't jump!!! 😉

General sailing by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi Baggie, What type are they? NiCad, NiMh or LiPo? If they are LiPos and they are getting very hot disconnect them IMMEDIATELY and take them to a recycling centre! If they are Nixx and getting hot (warm is allowed) reduce the charge current to the minimum! Take account of the 'Fast charge rate (Amps) specified by the manufacturer. Personally I would not use 3.5 or 5 Amps for anything except lead acid. Note how long the battery lasts in use. If it seems to be getting shorter than it used to be then probably at least one cell has a high internal resistance and it's days are numbered. It will only get worse. Use an appropriate charger for each type, and that 'knows' when to stop charging! Most modern units can be switched to appropriate programmes. Cheers Doug 😎

Crash Tender Shaft Tube Poistion by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi Neil Just seen your post re a 34" Crash Tender. The pic you posted looked like the bigger version. Your model is the same as mine as per the earlier pics. This is a small (by my standards anyway) model and works best with a light power train set up. I have a small 22xx brushless with a 30amp car ESC and 11.1v LiPo resulting in a very light model that positively leaps onto the plane. The 600 setup you have should work well but at the cost of a heavy overall weight. It is a very power hungry motor and if you overload it with too big a prop you will be able to smell the motor cooking on the lake, don't ask how I know! Regarding the hole, yes drill holes and file the slot to suit the angle. If you get a piece of dowel slightly smaller than the prop shaft you can wrap some coarse sandpaper round the dowel and use it to file the slot. Fit the prop/shaft/prop/coupler and motor and tack the propshaft in place with a couple of dabs of superglue. When set check that all is square and aligned and fill the gaps between shaft and hull with slivers of balsa and E$poxy glue. I use Plastic padding bu8t either will do. When dry sand smooth to shape. You may already have a mount for the 600 motor but SHG sell suitable mounts. You can easily convert to brushless and LiPos in the future. I agree the initial cost is high as you will need Charger, motor, ESC and Lipo battery but there are good cheap motor and ESC combinations that won't cost as much as you are expecting and you can use NiMh (NiCads are no longer used) batteries to avoid the extra cost of LiPo and charger. Happy building Dave

Deans Seaplane tender by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
SHG have mounts in their catalogue that they say are suitable for brushed and brushless. Just make sure the bolts you use are short so that they do not damage the coils on the motor. As you have opted for a LiPo do please charge and use in accordance with the instructions Please keep us posted Dave

Deans Seaplane tender by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi Just had a quick Google as I was not sure of the size. There was the very same item on our For Sale section 5 years ago: "Deans Marine 1/24th Scale British Power Boat Co. Seaplane Tender Includes JP Power 400 Motor, Deans (MTronics) ESC, 5Cell NiMh Battery." That being the case any small brushless 28XX size with a Kv of around 1000 and 30 amp esc and 30 -35 mm 3 blade brass prop should suffice. I have similar in my 34" Fireboat and use an 11.1v Lipo. If you are new to LiPo you do need a dedicated LiPo charger and be aware that unlike other battery technology they pack a very heavy punch. You must follow the charging regime to the letter and make sure you do not overdischarge when running the model. There are some rather frightening U-tube videos of what happens if you ignore the rules! That said I have been using LiPos for several years now without any major problem, but I am always aware of the risks and make sure I don't take any unnecessary risks Good luck Dave

Richards 48" Swordsman by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi Richard, The 'S' rating of a LiPo pack stands for the number of 3.7V cells in the pack. Therefore the 6S pack has 22.2V !! The kV rating of a brushless motor stands for '1000RPM per volt'. So, for the sake of illustration, a 1000kV motor would spin at max 22.000 revs at full volts from a 6S !!!! 😲 and will probably draw a lot current! Speed will depend mainly on the size and pitch of the prop, amongst other factors, including hull shape and weight. In this respect a Bigger prop is NOT always Better! The charge / discharge rate is given by the 'C' parameter of the pack. The better quality packs are marked with maximum charge and discharge rates in Amps (A). Cheers Doug 😎

Li-Ion Batteries by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi Allen I use these batteries and apart from the cheap Chinese imports they can give a high current. The drawback is that they are protected internally against overheating and as a result they can (and do) sometimes just stop working until they cool down. In a heavy current setting such as a tug for tug football or a fast electric this is what happens. If you are using in a more sedate model with low current draw they are fine. Also excellent for rx batteries with a switch mode psu. They are Lithium technology so do need to be balanced charged with the correct charger, but are more resilient than LiPos but still need to be respected. Common usage is in a rechargeable electric drill etc. You can buy battery holders for the cells which will avoid having to solder and makes charging easier I remember Torchy, just Dave

Tank Steering by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi Dave, you won't find a Conrad anything anywhere else but on the Conrad (or Amazon/Ebay) sites! But if you look for the Turnigy HT-6 you will find it on HobbyKing, it's the same damn thing for nearly half the Conrad price. See pics. Pure badge 'engineering'! Also just bought some Absima LiPos 2s 4000mAh from Conrad, €40 each. Today I found out that Absima is in Nürnberg (Nuremberg) just up the road from here, same batt €25 😡😭 Conrad will shortly be getting an appropriate mail from me! NO more Reely stuff for me!! I found the HT-6 very easy to set up, amazing what they pack into a $45 set these days. My Spektrum cost 12 times that a few years ago and doesn't do an awful lot more and is more complex to set up 🤔 Won't mess with mixer boards or two stick motor control just yet. Can use the mixer functions in the TX 😊 Have tested the HT-6 with various ESCs; e.g. Graupner Navy VR30 and Mtroniks Viper Micro10, no problems. When the new 2s LiPos are charged the next test will be with a Turnigy brushless ESCs and the BL I want to put in the Sea Scout. Progress is slow but sure. Why do I get on faster with electronics than with shipbuilding!!?? 😉 You're right; Mode 1 or 2 (3 and 4 are also available!) don't matter much. With this set you can assign any control element stick, switch, or pot to any channel (i.e. RX output) you want, and very simply - not like the Spektrum🤔. Like it.👍 I also like having the two pots available for proportional control; gun turrets, cranes, monitors .... 👍 And still switches left over for lights, sound .... Very versatile 👍👍 Only irritation is it won't go into operational mode until all switches are forward and the throttle (left stick) is pulled right back - motor off for an aircraft - safety feature. Minor irritation for a boater but pull the stick back and all is OK and you can then operate normally. Used the spring removal method on my old Graupner 40Meg MC-10. That box was a pain to set up as well🤔 I could programme the radio ATE for the old Home Office Type Approval lab faster, but then - I wrote the software 😉 Cheers Doug 😎

battery charging by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
Good one Onetenor 👍 I've also used the 'flash' technique successfully for years, BUT ONLY ON Ni-cad, NiMh or LA. It's the basis of the lead acid battery 'rejuvenators'. In that case it shocks the sulphate off the plates. DO NOT USE THIS TECHNIQUE FOR LIPOs OR ANY LI*** TYPE ACCU. The results would be unpredictable and downright bl...y dangerous. 😡 I would not want to be in the same room 😲 Have fun but don't blow yourselves up! 😆 Cheers Doug 😎 PS Roy - there's nowt much wrong with your battery if it charges to 7V. One cell is a little weaker OK, but if it doesn't show a tendency to collapse under load the accu will be OK if you don't demand too much current from it. Dave M's accus also only charged to 6.8V, an average of 1.36V / cell! Happy sailing all😊

Bluebird K7 by BOATSHED Commander   Posted: 6 months ago
I see that's a battery charger. I was thinking about a 12v power supply box I have. Can this be done from any lipo battery charger. I don't want to kill my one by doing something that it wouldn't like. It's an Elysium LX60B.

Bluebird K7 by Midlife306 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 6 months ago
Hot wire foam cutter: I started off by watching just about every video on YouTube on the subject. I then bought a few meters of 0.25mm NiChrome wire. At first I thought I'd just need a vertical bench top cutter. An unwanted shelf was liberated from a kitchen unit to use as the base, a couple of 2x1's were screwed underneath to give clearance for the wire connection. A piece of MDF was used for the upper arm. To give some adjustment underneath a block of wood with a screw in one end for the wire to wrap around was screwed to the base in just one position so the block could pivot. I drilled a clearance hole in the end of the upper arm for a long bolt & put a small slot in the end of the bolt to wrap the wire around, a washer and spring were used to give the wire some tension. When the wire heats up it expands so you need something to maintain the tension. Wrap the NiChrome wire on the screw underneath, put it through a hole cunningly placed in line in the base & up to the slot in the bolt in the upper arm, compressing the spring at the same time. Now that's all sorted get 2 pieces of normal wire, attach one to the screw underneath & one to the bolt on top. This is the bit where I found conflicting information on YouTube, people used all sorts of different things to power their cutters, batteries, pc power supplies & resistors, model railway power supplies, laptop chargers etc etc, everyone recommend different voltages & amperages. Luckily my Lipo charger can be sued as a power supply so I started messing with volt/amp settings, I didn't want the wire to glow red as that's too hot, I ended up using 10 volts & 2 amps, it works a treat. Unfortunately this cutter does have its limitations, throat depth etc. I decided I needed a hand held cutter, going off what I'd learned from the bench cutter this was a doddle. 2 pieces of 7mm steel bar 300mm long, 2mm hole in each end. 1 piece of 30mm square pine for the handle, 8mm hole through each end. Smack bars through holes in handle, get 2 pieces of normal wire, attach one to each hole at handle end, I just twisted them on & taped everything over. Now here's the trick with the other end, when you attach the NiChrome wire make sure you squeeze the bars together a little to give the tension, attach the other ends of the wires to the power supply & away you go. Like any tool I guess you get better with practice, lol Cheers Wayne