It's been in storage for 6 years as I just gave up on it. I'm trying to get it going got a planet 5 receiver all wired up correctly a 4500 mah 11.1v lipo battery . As soon as i connect the battery to the motor it starts turning. When the battery isn't connected the servo seems to work and turn on command. Is there a throttle servo anywhere? I'm totally stuck and really want to get the beast going. Yeah I'm a total newb and any help would be massively appreciates. Cheers
[Score: 9/10] 14"/500g NAXOS Single Propellor (3 Blade 20mm) Direct Drive to a MIG 280 (3 Blade) Powered by LiPoly (7.4v) 2Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through DSYS 12 A (5Amps) ESC - Comments: Model Greek fishing boats whole laminate construction, deck plinth. It also manages big waves on the lake, very stable. Assembled with 280 engine, 2200 mA LiPol battery, headlamps illuminated, reflector.
Hi RN From Hobbyking. Motor propdrive V2 2830- 1000kv 370watts 3.175mm shaft(9190000328-0)3S or 4S lipo battery. ESC 30A car(HK-30A)( XT60 connectors required), program card (HKPROG-CARD)can be used on the larger ones in the series. Lipo battery Turnigy 1000mah 3S 30C (T1000.3s.20) 89grams 75 x 33 x 19mm or a Turnigy 1500mah 3S 25C (T1500.3S.25) 113 grams 80 x 34 x 25 mm both have XT60 connectors. Prop about a 2 blade 30mm 1.4 pitch. Hope this helps.
thanks Dave i got a seaking 120a watercoold brushless ESC by Hobbywing which handles the power well. Same motor as before got a 38m 2 blade prop looking for a 3 blade. i was originally useing the 12v battery to run the motor but it was no good now use a lipo which i have installed under the deck in front of the motor.the large battery is running the watercooling pump and is also the prefect weight for ballast.NO problems with the salt water as i have got stainless steel, brass and copper fittings and a good flush threw the cooling system with fresh water. might be some time before i can put up a video because the council is draining the pool next week for the annual winter maintenance which is a bummer as there other suitable ponds handy. cheers Allan
Hi Sonar I have used both in boats and with no watercooling. No problems with both types. The in runners are good for replacing brush motors as the 35mm brushless motor are the same bolt holes as the 540 brush motors. My first brushless was a Trackstar 17T 2400kv into an old rc car, 90watts to 550 watts, turn it into an insane rocket. The main brushless motors we use in the boating club are Hobbyking 3639 750 and 1100kv, 3648 1450kv and the outrunner D3548 1100kv with a 2 blade 40-50mm props. ESC's are the car 60 and 100 amp which handle 2S to 4S Lipo batteries.
Nice sunny Sunday Sail at Boundary Park so took the Crash Tender for a spin 28XX brushless 11.1v 2200 Lipo 35mm three blade brass prop. Uses 30 amp cars ESC with small fan. Tx set to 55% on throttle otherwise it takes off. Rudder throw at 50% for same reason. Switchable to 100% for slow speed manouvers. Great fun. Dave
Boatshed Use whatever you want as a coupling with the Taycol. Its so inefficient it will make little difference. They are major sources of interference but capacitors and careful screening will allow them to work with modern RC and ESC's. If you use metal to metal couplings they can cause interference. Your brushless will require a good well engineered modern type coupling with the motor and shaft in alignment and solidly mounted. I use a 42xx brushless in my Sea Queen and it is fast. Has your Crash Tender two props? If not the Super Marine should be OK. I would use a nice 3 cell LiPo to make up for the lump of lead that is the Taycol. A brushed 800 would be suitable for either model. If you want reverse you need to modify and add a bridge rectifier. Doug (RNin Munich) is converting his Taycol so perhaps he will post a blog. Good luck with the build Dave
This is the 29" Brushless Miss Geico. Running on two 14.8 volt 5000mAh LiPo batteries. In Herbert Woods Boatyard in Potter Heigham Norfolk. She is pretty quick but do not know her top speed. Turns flat out on full rudder lock. Runs for about 15 to 20 minutes. Would recommend as a great fun boat.
Hi Nick, Servos & signal leads For these I use the twisted cable, pic 1. Especially if I need to extend a servo cable. Twisting the wires together helps to reduce interference. The interference current induced in one wire is suppressed by the wire next to it 😊 This is the principle used in high quality phone and LAN cables. Of course you can twist wires together yourself if you want. Clamp one end in the vice, the other ends in your hand-drill and away you go. Drive batter - ESC - motor- Rules of thumb For these I use cable from the motor trade. Make sure it is rated to handle the motor current you expect under normal running AND NOT LESS THAN THE STALL CURRENT OR THE BATTERY MAX CURRENT RATING! I don't do hi speed racers so the hefty 300A stuff doesn't interest me. If you do then use the car battery cable size. Cross section of the copper wires ca 25 to 35square mm. Pic 2. For medium power, < 15 to 20A like most of my scale ships the 'standard' car cable with about 2.5 to 4mm square is enough. Pic 3. Above all: don't forget to fit a fuse (quick blow) in each motor supply lead, Rating less than the max stall current that you expect and/or just under the max current rating of the cable. In the drive battery lead put a fuse (not quick blow!) rating to match the total max load you expect under 'normal' running; i.e.just above your total load but always less than the max discharge rate of the battery (esp. for LiPos!) or the wire mac rating. The quick blow fuses on the motors will blow first if a motor stalls, still leaving you with some power & control. Esp in twin shaft boats, you can limp home on one engine 👍 On singles, time to take your socks off and join the ducks! 😉 Odds and ends - low power So called signal cable or test-lead cable from hobby electronic shops with conductor cross section area of 0.75 mm square is enough. It copes with an Amp or 2 with no problem. General, make sure all connections are clean and tight, use gold plated connectors for all hi current wires, batt, ESC, motors. Hope this helps a bit. Cheers Doug 😎
I see that's a battery charger. I was thinking about a 12v power supply box I have. Can this be done from any lipo battery charger. I don't want to kill my one by doing something that it wouldn't like. It's an Elysium LX60B.
Hot wire foam cutter: I started off by watching just about every video on YouTube on the subject. I then bought a few meters of 0.25mm NiChrome wire. At first I thought I'd just need a vertical bench top cutter. An unwanted shelf was liberated from a kitchen unit to use as the base, a couple of 2x1's were screwed underneath to give clearance for the wire connection. A piece of MDF was used for the upper arm. To give some adjustment underneath a block of wood with a screw in one end for the wire to wrap around was screwed to the base in just one position so the block could pivot. I drilled a clearance hole in the end of the upper arm for a long bolt & put a small slot in the end of the bolt to wrap the wire around, a washer and spring were used to give the wire some tension. When the wire heats up it expands so you need something to maintain the tension. Wrap the NiChrome wire on the screw underneath, put it through a hole cunningly placed in line in the base & up to the slot in the bolt in the upper arm, compressing the spring at the same time. Now that's all sorted get 2 pieces of normal wire, attach one to the screw underneath & one to the bolt on top. This is the bit where I found conflicting information on YouTube, people used all sorts of different things to power their cutters, batteries, pc power supplies & resistors, model railway power supplies, laptop chargers etc etc, everyone recommend different voltages & amperages. Luckily my Lipo charger can be sued as a power supply so I started messing with volt/amp settings, I didn't want the wire to glow red as that's too hot, I ended up using 10 volts & 2 amps, it works a treat. Unfortunately this cutter does have its limitations, throat depth etc. I decided I needed a hand held cutter, going off what I'd learned from the bench cutter this was a doddle. 2 pieces of 7mm steel bar 300mm long, 2mm hole in each end. 1 piece of 30mm square pine for the handle, 8mm hole through each end. Smack bars through holes in handle, get 2 pieces of normal wire, attach one to each hole at handle end, I just twisted them on & taped everything over. Now here's the trick with the other end, when you attach the NiChrome wire make sure you squeeze the bars together a little to give the tension, attach the other ends of the wires to the power supply & away you go. Like any tool I guess you get better with practice, lol Cheers Wayne
Evening Dave, many thanks for the response 😊I wasn't sure how my 'style' would come over! Martin thinks you created a monster 😲 monster fun for all I hope, maybe a breath of fresh air ?? "Tune in next week!" Many German forums are very stiff also nehm ich nicht teil (so I don't take part!). But my brand of humour always stood me in good stead during contract negotiations over the years. Often not so easy to convince the Admiral to spend his hard won millions on my system design, not to mention the yards who want to maximise their own margin. British humour went a long way to breaking the ice with navies and yards around the world. The Koreans and Chinese were the most difficult to bring round, after that Algeria, Oman and UAE were child's play. The navies of Chile, Ecuador and especially Brazil were; very professional (and good dinner parties)👍, interesting! 🤔, and a barrel of laughs 👍😉 in that order! Canada was good, but bl...y cold! 😡 French & Italian yards had great lunches 👍but small budgets (thumb down!)! But seriously though folks; you're right of course, the ancient caps are now useless and I have much better ones now, plus ferrite rings and inductors to choose from. Re voltage; the Taycol specs also give values for 12V running! I can use the Spektrum TX programming to limit the max volts to 12, also, when the Target is fully renovated I will first test it using my regulated PSU to find our where the limits are. Non-destructive I hope. Theoretically the motor will only take what it wants, never mind what the LiPo can provide if asked. I will also use my new Watt-meter; a tip I got here from you guys. 👍 Many thanks for that. Re sparks; thought I might try to see the energy spectrum on my 1G/S digital scope, most energy should be in the VLF-HF band and tail off considerably above VHF so an indication may be possible. Might be able to rig up some sort of rev counter using it's frequency meter?? Worth a try 😉 After several years concentrating on gallivanting round the world I have some catching up to do! You guys have sure accelerated that. Muchas gracias y muito obrigado! I've learned a lot the last 3 months and I think I can give a lot back. Looking forward to it 😎 Haven't used the 35Meg set for years, found it this week while looking for something else, as usual. Maybe I'll resurrect it for the flying boat?? It was replaced long ago with the Graupner MC-10. Latest set is the Spektrum DX6. Still learning how to modify or cancel all the fixed-wing and heli pre-programming I don't need. 🤔 @ John; thanks for the friendly response 👍 There was an ESC in her with the Decaperm while Jessie was using her, massive alu box thing with a big ol' 2055 sitting in a heat sink on top! Did several years good service in HMS Hotspur and still works, I think! Glad to revive some hopefully happy memories. Idea for a new topic perhaps- "Against the stream - Recycling the hard earned technologies of our youth!" 😉 Happy modelling, or better "Sailing" 😎 Gute nacht aus München 😉 PPS @ Dave (and / or other administrators): WE NEED MORE EMOTICONS OR EMOJIS AS YOU CALL THEM! Check your dumb-phones!