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>> Home > Tags > lipo

lipo
lipo
Bluebird by Biscuit Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 5 days ago
[Score: 10/10] 27" Bluebird Single Propellor (2 Blade X Type) Direct Drive to a 2881kv (2 Blade X Type) Powered by LiPoly (11.1v) 4Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through ETTI (120Amps) ESC - Comments: This was a Touchwood static kit that my boy brought back from Coniston, it said it could be converted to Rc and had some sketchy drawings that were not very good. I decided to go brushless with it and lipo battery, was not an easy job as had to go it alone to find out C/G and drive set up. The kit was very poor with a twisted hull and resin parts that were far too heavy, I made some aluminium planing wedges and various other parts to save weight. This project took the best part of 5 years to complete as it would go back on the shelf as I got stumped for ideas then back off again as I found a bit more inspiration, overal it came out well and runs on rails with. Good turn of speed as you can see in the vid I posted.

BRAVE BORDERER - BRUSHLESS SUMMARY by jbkiwi Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 6 days ago
I used this pump from E Bay which pumps well, and with the rubber mounts is quiet. 6-12v (I use a 2 cell LiPo which seems perfect) and am cooling 2 2000kv 28mm in-runners. Have tried a few different pumps and these have been the best so far. You have to be careful that you don't over pressurize your plumbing system, as if the hoses come off while running you can fill your boat up in no time. It's safest to adjust your pump voltage or piping to a 'neutral' pressure rather than risk hosing down your electrics. I used twin pick-ups behind the props and separate feeds, one for the pump and one direct in case the pump stopped or blocked.

Ashes the scratch built Motor Torpedo Boat by Sakibian Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 7 days ago
I found this hull at thingiverse last year. I printed the hull from a local shop and rest was handmade. Firstly I bought a 2426 4200kv brushless 2-3s which was too powerful and too heavy for the boat size. The length is 38cm. And the 30Amp esc was also too big for it's size. After that I tried small 180 brushed motor with 20A brushed esc w/brake. It was perfect (still it's heavy😂). The bridge and deck is made by 1.75mm pvc,torpedos are made of wooden pencil. Small battery space takes a 2s 500mah lipo. 30mm 3blade propeller. YouTube video link is here: https://youtu.be/KZdmZ8_Z0IE

Tarpon hardware help by Gordon-B Petty Officer   Posted: 10 days ago
Thanks Steve, my choice would have been lead acid, but the boat is to be a present for my son. He works abroad for long periods and I recon a lead acid would go flat beyond recovery. So my choice now is a NiMh Pack SubC of 9.8 or12V, minimum 5000mah in case he blows hiself up using LiPo's. I want the boat to have a speed around a brisk walking pace. Thank you again for your reply.

Brushless motors (again) by canabus Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 15 days ago
Hi Steve I started with the Hobbyking 3639-1100 kv in my Huntsman with a 2 blade 40mm prop, 3S 5800mah Lipo and a car 60 Amp ESC. Upgraded to the 100Amp car ESC and a straight change over to the 3648-1450 motor. All from Hobbyking. Good units and have no problems. Also a the price will not break the bank book!!! Note, change the uni-joint to metal as the plastic ones will not handle the power and break. Canabus

just need cable (wire)... by Rookysailor Commander   Posted: 15 days ago
Hi Martin, you will definitely get the thickness of wire from Ian at the component shop, depending on what you want to use it for, depends on the gauge needed, I use 12g for my lipo's, but check here, and/or give them a call, the are very helpful. https://www.componentshop.co.uk/cable/silicon-cables.html regards, Peter

just need cable (wire)... by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 15 days ago
Hi all, I might have motors, ESCs RC gear, even LiPos and Nimh packs, but I ain't got the heavyish wire to hook it all up and although I had a gander on ebay, all I could find was made up cables, with invariably the wrong plugs on the ends, but I have bullets male and female coming out of my earoles, so just need....wire! Any idea who flogs the odd metre of the stuff that can be soldered into bullets? Martin

Vic Smeed's 'Waterbaby' by onetenor Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 15 days ago
As Westie said don't use a Forstner it will take out too much at once. Use the 8 mm evenly both sides. Go gently.👍👍 Also see if any ballast has been added inside. This was often done to reduce heeling . It defeated it's own object as reducing the freeboard still put the lee rail under when heeling. Also what batteries are you using? A change to lighter ones may help. Lipos maybe but they may reduce duration.Nimhs may be a compromise. Or the ABC types All this assuming you are using R/c.

USCG POINT GLAS by Inkoust Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 21 days ago
The 70-year US Coast Guard semi-deck. All-metal construction, 2 x MIG 480 motor, standard servo, model illuminated on two circuits. One light mast, position lights and cabin. The second lighting circuit in the hull of the ship and the outdoor lighting around the superstructure. There are no labels on the model yet, I'm waiting for the fabrication. Battery 1 x LiPol 4000 mA. The total construction took me half a year. I made the hull made of laminate from my friend in Slovakia. The superstructures themselves are made of laminated boards. Part of the light bulbs are 6V lamps and the strobe with positional lights are the LEDs of the light triggering through two RC switches.😉

USCG POINT GLAS by Inkoust Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 21 days ago
[Score: 8/10] 27"/2600g USCG POINT GLAS Capable of 11mph and a runtime of 80mins Twin Propellors (4 Blade 25mm) Direct Drive to a MIG 480 (4 Blade) Powered by LiPoly (7.4v) 4Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through DSYS 72A ESC - Comments: The 70-year US Coast Guard semi-deck. All-metal construction, 2 x MIG 480 motor, standard servo, model illuminated on two circuits. One light mast, position lights and cabin. The second lighting circuit in the hull of the ship and the outdoor lighting around the superstructure. There are no labels on the model yet, I'm waiting for the fabrication. Battery 1 x LiPol 4000 mA.

RC....mixers? And other unknowns.. by BW3 Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 23 days ago
Ok... Currently trying to build a Itaieri Schnellboot, ...but am questioning if what little I think I know to be correct/ workable... I have amassed the following : 3- Hobbyking ST3007 1100KV brushless motors each direct drive to 32mm plastic props.... (2 right hand drive and 1 left hand drive props... swapped over leads on on motor to get it to run as yet untested the left hand prop) 3- Turnigy nano tech 3s 3000mh 25-50C Lipo ( Have got a balance charger and board , flame proof charge bag , battery voltage check/ alarm units, and will check and charge them await the only local help I have in RC / lips battery a helicopter flyer who has no experience with RC boats ) I just read the post on WTail mixer and wonder if I need that or if my current unkowning idea to just connect all 3 ESC ‘s together to one channel on the radio , again was give Eflite Blade SR HP6DSM 2.4GHz to try out ,Will this unit work or do I need something else , currently will/ can use all 6 channels but would / could use more if I had them ... last time I had anything to do with RC was a a kid/ teen and back then you had ground radios and flight radios and the two should not be mixed .. Ok please advise , how far off am I or am I still within range of keeping it simple ? Thanks All Bill

Voltage increasing via regulator by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 24 days ago
OK, Understood, I think! If you just want to boost the bow thruster why don't you just fit a small 12V (or 11.1V LiPo) just for that? Frankly I might start with an 9.6V batt before I jump from 7.2 to 12V. I assume it's just either On or OFF, i.e. no ESC. As you can see from the specs of your Booster, as the output volts increase the deliverable current (for a given input volts) decreases inversely, as I predicted! Ya don't get summat for nuttin! Soooo, you need to carefully check the specs of the thruster motor; max voltage, current at maximum efficiency versus volts applied! That will tell you the max volts battery that you can safely and most efficiently use, and you can check if your booster can deliver the required current at the voltage needed. I'd just use a separate battery and a servo operated micro switch, but then I'm just a dumb engineer!😲 Bon chance mon ami👍 Cheers, Doug 😎

Voltage increasing via regulator by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 24 days ago
A somewhat confused question if I may say so Eric!😲 You can't 'regulate up' only down. The regulator's job is to produce a constant lower voltage from a range of higher voltages. I often use one to produce 5V for the RX and servos from a 12V SLA drive battery. A little 3 legged device (type LM7805) which looks just like the power FETs in a high current ESC. My version of a UBEC! 😉 What is this 'regulator' you have? Type number? Manufacturer? Photo? To get 12V from 7.2V you would need to use a Voltage converter (also known as an inverter). This works by converting the DC input from the battery to an AC voltage which can then be increased using a transformer. More elegant (and expensive!) versions use a transistor oscillator and amplifier. This uses hi-power transistors instead of the transformer. The AC output of the transformer (or amplifier) is then rectified back to DC. All this is very inefficient which is why it is normally only used for very light currents, where the losses are not so significant, and when there is no other alternative, not often the case! You can't beat the physics and you will never get the same power out that you put in. This leads to a basic design question:- What is the total current consumption of the load? I.e. the motors. A simple example:- Let's say that at 7.2V the motors draw 10Amps total, i.e. 72W (or VAmps). Assuming a utopian 100% efficiency at 12V this would equate to 6A. Due to the three stages of conversion; DC to AC, transformation / amplification of AC to 12V, AC back to DC, you'll probably be lucky to get an efficiency of around 60% to 70%. Thus if you stick 720W in you'll get around 430 to 504W out. Not much of a gain is it!🤔 Your battery would be exhausted in about 2/3 the time it is now 😡 If your motors draw more than 10A the problem just gets worse. So what is it you really want to do? If you just want to up the volts to your motors stick a 12V SLA or an 11.1V LiPo (3S) in and hope that you don't cook your motors! Frankly I don't really know why you're bothering, tugs aren't sprinters! If you want more pulling power with the existing setup try experimenting with prop sizes and pitch. Will probably achieve much more than fiddlin' about with voltage converters. BTW: All this assumes that the RX has it's own separate 5V battery supply or from a BEC in the ESC. Some clarification needed from your side. Cheers, Doug 😎

VOSPER 46" Crash Tender by Elsrickle Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 1 month ago
Thanks again been searching all over for that info. Got my Crash Tender completed just setting up the the smaller 7.4volt lipo’s if ok will show the photos. Did find with the Hawk escs set up the forward stop and reverse settings as per the instructions and the motors worked immediately only had to go into the parameters to set the reverse. So you may have another problem on your setup and not the hawk esc

VOSPER 46" Crash Tender by Elsrickle Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 1 month ago
I have a hawk BL60 and when setting up left it at 2 poles as I couldn’t find the number of poles on the Graupner HPD 2920 4000 And it works ok have fitted to of these in my crash Tender and both worked fine although I find it a bit fast with the 11 volt lipos