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>> Home > Tags > lipo

Predator (Aeromarine Laminates USA) by bilzin Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 54 minutes ago
Aeromarine Laminates Predator 21 hull with HK 2630kv brushless outboard and Turnigy 120a w/c esc. Waterproof metal geared Servo and will have 4-6s lipo when completed.

Sea Queen Prop shaft by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 11 hours ago
Hi AndyG Not sure what type of coupling was supplied but I use a common Universal coupling on my 48" Sea Queen and use a brushless 42 size 850Kv water cooled motor of 700 watts and it is happy driving a Prop Shop prop of 42mm at 45 amp on full throttle. Power is from an 11.1v Lipo of at least 2200 mA but Nimhs would work, just not as fast and less duration. My motor is mounted in the main cabin and I have no problem with the prop shaft. Originally designed for IC power so perhaps you have heard of problems when we used such powerful and not so well controlled devices. My model goes on the plane very easily and any more power would make it unstable. Pics attached to show my set up. You can just see the coupling in front of the motor.

Sea Queen Prop shaft by AndyG009 Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 12 hours ago
Hi all Have purchased a Sea Queen kit, and after getting info from this site plan to fit a brushless motor and Lipo's. Have been advised to change coupling from supplied, for one that will take the power - comments please. Also is there likely to be problems with more power going through the long M4 prop shaft ? I would rathersolve problems now before boat is built, so any help would be useful.

Voltage step down by jarvo Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 day ago
Hi Brian, I would suggest 2 x 6volt NimH cell packs with a parallel 'Y' lead, the reason is you can use each pack to alter the trim of the hull. with a big hull like the Fire Boat, you could even put 4 x 6v cells in for longer duration. a single 12v does not give you a lot of maneuvering room regards balance etc. I have just changed my 48" Fireboat to 3s lipo's from 7.2v NimH packs, this is with Graupner 700bb motors with twin 50mm 3 blade brass props, not tested yet due to poor weather and shift patterns, but it sounds great on the bench. Mark

Voltage step down by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 day ago
Hi Brian For your purpose I doubt if you can find a solution that will deliver enough amps for the motor. You can buy 12v NiMh batteries which may be the easiest option if you do not want or require the performance provided by a LiPo which will only give you 11.1v (3s) or 14.8v (4s). If you do decide to change to LiPos I agree with Haverlock and you do need to read and research how to use and care for the battery.

Voltage step down by Haverlock Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 days ago
What your asking for is possible but not easy. A 12V ESC will handle an overvoltage but I cannot say how much and depending upon the current draw of your motor a voltage regulator can be expensive. The simple solution is to get a 3s LIPO However you do need a special charger and have to make sure you do not discharge a LIPO to too lower voltage. style='background-color:yellow;'>lipo-batteries.html if your interested in going LIPO have a read about the care and feeding of them.

Electronics Down Below (5) by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 days ago
Great stuff Neil Good progress👍 You have come to some very similar conclusions as I have with my Southampton conversion! have just ordered NiMH drive and RX batteries as I realised that the P94 is not Lipo safe and has no BEC. So the BEC you mention for 'less critical items' would have to be an external SBEC or UBEC! Something else to find a corner for! Also I've long since junked my ancient NiMH drive packs anyway. I've also been considering changing the rudder servo, but not because I'm fiddling with the rudders, there's no point in wasting time with that as they will be motor assisted anyway. 😉 I simply have some smaller, but still powerful, ones to give more room for the battery. I was about to tell you to remove the heatsinks from the P94 when I read further down! I thought when I ordered them that 10 quid or so for a couple of chunks of alu ain't worth it when I've got sheets of it on the shelf😉 I also concluded that the only place for a decent drive battery is between the shafts; a) ya gotta be able to get it out for charging / exchange, b) I wanted to keep the extra weight nearer midships. Keep up the good work, cheers Doug 😎

Richards 48" Swordsman by olly49 Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 5 days ago
I bought and built my Huntsman back in the late 70's. Decided last year to refurbish her. She is powered by a T600 brushless motor, 2 11.1 v lipos these are positioned midships, x50mm prop, tends to start bow down but when on the plane she looks a beautiful sight. I must say of all the boats I have this is the favorite one.👍

Veron Vosper RTTL 28" by Skydive130 Admiral   Posted: 5 days ago
The plans are lovely! Really remind me of my keilkraft days as a nipper! Obviously the model was designed when ic motors where the norm, however with the advent of brushless motors and limo batteries, it now gives us the chance to rebuild these classics from yesteryear with cheap electronics! I think motor, esc, lipo and prop shaft cost about £30, wood another £30 odd, a few odds n ends from the spares box, should have a nice vintage model built for less than £80 allowing for any minor purchases! Will start building again Wednesday, watch this space!

Sarah Jane by bilzin Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 7 days ago
House clearance rescue. 30" length 540 motor Will have 2.4ghz and 2s lipo when refurbished

PROBOAT RECOIL 17 12.1 VOLT BATTERY by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 8 days ago
Hi Les Yes I agree there is no way with the charger supplied you can do anything other than charge to full capacity. I do believe we have made suggestions on another thread on the site advising possible solutions. The cheapest would be to just buy a simple battery checker and make sure after you use the battery the voltage is around the 3.7-3.8v mark. Run a bit more to reduce and short charge to increase. If you are intending to become serious about modelling and using LiPos then, like most of us you will want to buy a charger that does the job for you automatically. There is a cost but if you protect your batteries they will last and save you money in the long term. I've not had much hair for some years so probably that's why!

Motor problem by pmdevlin Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 8 days ago
Hi Richard, that lead acid is way too big and heavy. I Remember going on hols as a kid, car was loaded up, all family, roofrack, deck chairs, tent and so on, and Dads old Moggie Traveller would barely climb the Welsh hills! Same here, its just dead weight, ideal for a tug etc, no speed required, and ballast needed. This boat wasn't any slouch in its day, As Havelock says, it was originally built as a ic powered model so could stand being heavy. To achieve balance, its a matter of moving things around, not adding, so just move things forward, you will be surprised how the weight increases once you start adding Deck clutter, fittings and so on. Lightweight, is good. Your comment, stood up in the water at half throttle isn't going fast, its just bad weight displacement causing the bow tyo be too high. That setup would never have been that fast, the motor/battery combo will never cause a heavy ply boat to be going that fast its standing on end Couple of things to consider. Your nimhs, how many times have these been cycled, and what sort of charger are you using? A reasonable charger will give the information, if I know what you are using, Ill advise accordingly as you might not be getting the best from these batteries what prop are you on Think of an rc plane (if you fly them its easier) If the cog is too far back, the nose is pitching up, and its almost impossible to control, it almost porpoises in the air, and is very bad. COG is vital on a rc plane, nose heavy is better, only because its more controllable. COG is equally important with a boat, but harder to see the implications, the hull will give us false info, such as if the bow is up its on the plane, no, not necessarily, its not planing due to speed, its just out of balance. Shifting the weight radically will let you see this, sorry for the ramble, Wish you where closer to me I would love to help hands on👍 Ive tried to find a suitable video of my Huntman to display what I'm rambling on about. This video is poor quality, but it displays that boat moving very fast (25mph with on board data logger) but look how flat it is, its planning, as the forward 1/3 of the hull is out of the water, but its not standing on its tail, this is because its balanced. You boat is pretty similar in design to this so whilst you wont want to go this fast, the picture should look the same. This Huntsman weighs 6kg with batteries (lipos, you will NEVER get a nimh or lead acid to do this) and is 4 foot long, so quite a heavy old girl first constructed as an IC model in the early 70's. and here is a picture of my 3 foot aerokits fireboat, bow up, is it planing, no, its way out of balance, it wasnt actaully going that fast Hope that helps Paul

PROBOAT RECOIL 17 12.1 VOLT BATTERY by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 8 days ago
Hi Les If you are happy with this connector and your other equipment uses this type I would leave well alone. If you do decide to change then I agree XT60 or Deans are common. Does mean you will need to change all the connectors on your equipment or get converters. Not sure I agree with keeping Lipos at above storage charge for any length of time. I have had several of mine balloon before I knew better and I was using them every week. I suspect high temperature may be a factor but that's just my opinion. I now make sure any batteries I have charged are used even for a short time just to drop them from full charge. I use the air boat on the bench. I do agree you should use a storage charge if you are unsure when you may use them again.

PROBOAT RECOIL 17 12.1 VOLT BATTERY by Haverlock Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 9 days ago
if you can it may be better to cut off the original connectors and solder new XT60 connectors. They are not expensive and will make getting new batteries way easier.

Motor problem by Haverlock Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 9 days ago
I have to agree with jarvo remember the original boat was intended to have an IC engine and the radio control of the 1960s. Transistors were in use and the radio gear while it was bulky was not that heavy. Personally I would recommend you remove all of your batteries and stick in a decent 3cell LIPO. Where are you trying to ballast your boat down to? The originals ran with little if any extra ballast purist would say they were over scale speed but you have a throttle stick.