[Score: 8/10] 52"/5700g TRIUMPH (CG-52301) Capable of 12mph and a runtime of 60mins Direct Drive to a 775 JOHNSON-TYPE FAN-COOLED 6-12V (5 Blade) Powered by NiMH (8.4v) 3Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through DIMART 320A FAN-COOLED ESC - Comments: ON THE WAYS: BARRACUDA RC BOATS 1:12 USCG 52' TYPE F WOODEN MOTOR LIFEBOAT; NAMED "TRIUMPH" (CG-52301), IN HONOR OF THE RESCUE CRAFT LOST IN JAN 1961 DURING RESCUE ATTEMPT WITH LOSS OF ALL HANDS. THIS KIT IS ONE OF THREE IN EXISTENCE, THE OTHER TWO BEING BUILT BY A GENTLEMAN IN THE PACIFIC NORTHWEST (ONE FOR PERSONAL, THE OTHER FOR A MUSEUM. SHE IS MAINLY LASER CUT BALTIC BIRCH PLYWOOD; THE FALSE KEEL 19MM THICK, RIBS 5.5MM, DECK AND HULL & CABINS 3MM. THE HULL WILL BE COVERED AND REINFORCED WITH POLYESTER FABRIC AND MINWAX POLYURETHANE. THE DECK WILL BE COVERED BY 1/8" BASSWOOD SCRIBED SHEATHING AND THE FANTAIL SEMICIRCLE ABOVE THE STERN POST WILL BE 1/16". FINISH WITH A LIGHT MAHOGANY DECK COAMING. HANDMADE WOODEN RUDDER ON A 3/8" POST STEERED BY A SAIL WINCH SERVO & CABLE SYSTEM, RABOESCH 75MM 5-BLADE BRASS WHEEL TURNED BY A 4MM S/S SHAFT. MOST DECK FITTINGS AND HOUSINGS ARE HANDMADE WHENEVER POSSIBLE AND WOOD REMAINS NATURAL WHEN DETAIL ALLOWS IT, AS I DON'T ENJOY PAINTING OVER NATURAL GRAIN. I LOVE TO REPURPOSE THE LEFTOVER LUMBER FROM KIT TEMPLATES, LORD KNOWS I HAVE PLENTY OF IT. OH WELL, THE TEMP OUTSIDE IS GONNA DELAY ANY PAINTING, ANYWAY.
[Score: 9/10] 35"/4500g CG-40564 Capable of 15mph and a runtime of 45mins Twin Propellors (4 Blade 50mm) Direct Drive to a 775 JOHNSON-TYPE 6-12V (4 Blade) Powered by NiMH (8.4v) 3Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through HOBBYWING (15Amps) ESC - Comments: DUMAS 1:14 USCG 40' UTB. REPRESENTING US COAST GUARD UTILITY BOAT CG-40564, WHICH CAPSIZED DURING A RESCUE ATTEMPT ON THE COLUMBIA RIVER BAR ON 17 JAN 1961. HER CREW WAS FORTUNATELY RESCUED. SHE WAS ASSISTING CG-52301, A 52' TYPE F WOODEN MLB, WHICH FOUNDERED WITH THE LOSS OF ALL HANDS. IT REMAINS THE WORST SMALL BOAT RESCUE DISASTER IN COAST GUARD HISTORY. THIS IS AN UNUSUAL SCALE BALSA PLANK-ON, COVERED BY 2 OZ FIBERGLASS. I USED MINWAX POLYURETHANE FOR AN ALTERNATE TO RESIN, WHICH TURNED OUT WELL, AND CAN BE DONE WITH MINIMAL VENTILATION. WITH BIRCH PLY DECK & CABINS, 1/8" SCRIBED SHEATHING COVERS THE DECK BOW TO STERN AND MAHOGANY TRIM LEFTOVER FROM ANOTHER DUMAS KIT IN MY SCALE SHIPYARD. STOCK D/C FITTINGS WITH SOME SUPPLEMENTAL PREMADE AND HANDMADE ITEMS. SHE FEATURES TWIN RABOESCH 4-BLADE WIDE FLUKE WHEELS AND MATCHING RUDDERS; WORKING HATCHES WITH STOWAGE AREA FOR ANCHOR & TOWLINE, LIGHTHOUSE 9V LED NAV LIGHTS AND FLASHING LED LAW ENFORCEMENT BLUE LIGHT (RC CONTROLLED). I'M ADDING A MOUNT FOR A SCALE BROWNING M2 50 CAL THAT I WAS ABLE TO PRODUCE ON MY 3D PRINTER. THAT'S AN ADVENTURE IN ITSELF. THIS WAS MY FIRST REAL PLANK ON BULKHEAD, AND BALSAWOOD CAN BE A LIL TRICKY, BUT WILL ALWAYS BE THE STANDARD OF WHICH I COMPARE ALL MY SUBSEQUENT BUILDS. MY FATHER BUILT RC AIRCRAFT, AND ALWAYS PREACHED THAT YOU SHOULD OVERBUILD IN ORDER TO SURVIVE A CRACK-UP AND FLY ANOTHER DAY! THAT'S MY CREED WITH BOATS. OVERBUILD!!! THANK YOU DAD!
[Score: 8/10] 35"/3000g WHITE CLOVER Capable of 15mph and a runtime of 60mins Single Propellor (5 Blade 65mm) Direct Drive to a 775 JOHNSON-TYPE FAN-COOLED (5 Blade) Powered by NiMH (8.4v) 3Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through DIMART FAN-COOLED 320A 6-18V (15Amps) ESC - Comments: DUMAS 1:72 TUNA CLIPPER KIT; REDESIGNED & REFITTED TO A RESEARCH VESSEL. BEAUTIFUL MAHOGANY PLANK-ON (DOUBLE-PLANKED ABOVE PLIMSOL LINE & PROTECTED BY MULTIPLE COATS OF MINWAX POLYURETHANE), WITH 3/16" SCRIBED DECK SHEATHING (DECK CAN ACCOMMODATE A SMALL RC HELO, GOOD LUCK WITH THE LANDING) FEATURES RIVABO 5-BLADE WHEEL, HAND MADE RUDDER, BULBOUS BOW & TRAWLING GALLOWS.ONE 1.5V WORKING RADAR ARRAY, LIGHTHOUSE 9V LED NAV LIGHTS & AMBER DECK LIGHTS AND WORKING BRASS STOCKLESS ANCHOR.
This is my latest progress on the Barracuda RC Boats 52' MLB, US COAST GUARD "TRIUMPH"CG- 52301. I was up until 0500 this AM attempting to finish sheathing the hull. The deck housings are just about ready for paint. I really don't enjoy covering natural wood, but it's a must to achieve proper detail, I reckon. I'm awaiting 1/8" scribed sheathing for the deck, the fantail semicircle will be 1/16" sheathing, and the outboard perimeter of the deck will be 3/16" light mahogany strips. She's powered by a 775 Johnson-type 6-12v motor turning a 4mm shaft and a 75mm 5-blade Raboesch wheel. The 5-blade isn't OEM, but I reckoned she needed some extra muscle to get to the party in distress.
I have two of these kits and will be starting one after Christmas... I will keep you posted. This is a Lindberg model of a 1959, 40' Chris Craft Sport Fisherman which is 30" long. I have two motors for her, but not sure if I will RC her or not. The finished boat should look like the photos or a bit better. These are plastic kits which I intend to apply mahogany skins and accents to make it more realistic.
After many distractions and accumulating 'stuff' to go in and on the boat I finally got around to tidying up the hull this week. After flattening with 180 / 240 wet and dry I sealed with Ezekote flattened again then sprayed with a professional grade primer / filler from the auto branch. As usual this showed up all the pits so I filled them with Revell Plasto and primed again. After going round this loop a few times I was (reasonably) happy and flattened with 600 W&D. Then sprayed on Royal Blue from a giant rattle can, also from the auto pro market. Flattened off with 1200 W&D between coats. I have Tamiya Royal Blue acrylic for my air brush as well but couldn't be bothered to set up the compressor🤔 Can worked pretty well though. 👍 Last pic shows the 'Before'! Will leave the final finishing, nameplate and lacquer coat until I have finished the internal fitting out and the cabin. Have decided to plank the cockpit with mahogany😲 just ordered from Krick! First attempt at planking - Wish me luck! I like the blue hull so much I think I will just mark the waterline with a red (or white?) boot topping stripe. Comments welcome. Cabin will be white with a blue roof. Now to continue with the new prop shaft, old one is showing signs of wear at both ends and rust at the wet end 🤔 Anyway it's got an imperial thread which is useless when all my brass props are metric. More soon, I hope 😉 Cheers Doug 😎
[Score: 9/10] 60"/7600g Schooner - Comments: Scratch built with mahogany planks on the club's mould. Glass cloth and fibreglass inside and protected with G4 polyurethane resin all over. Uses a sail winch (Hitec) and travelling dolly for the two main sails and a separate arm servo for the foresails. Standard servo for the rudder. Power is from a 6.6v 1000mA LiFe battery. Taranis Tx using two sticks with the sail servos connected via an internal mixer to one stick. Ballast is fixed to the keel with two studs which extend into the hull where a steel bar is attached between both and acts as a carrying handle.
Had a little time & the weather was great so worked outside putting the hull skins on I used Door skin mahogany .A sheet was about $ 9.00 Canadian Next time I use Oak Door skin That's about $23.00 a sheet . Have to now take my time & smooth all the parts .I also sealed the inside of hull with a 2 part finishing epoxy.
Hi Norm, Norm (!) Oughs drawing may well be 'as built'. During the war she received many mods. Depends on the time snapshot you want to recreate. I may be wrong about the island (photo perspective) but it seemed that way. I remember standing on the topmost island deck of a Colossus class carrier, at the foot of the antenna mast, looking down at ants crawling about on the deck, and the even smaller ones on the dockside! 😉 I was up there inspecting the COMMS antenna fit. That was my job the last 30 odd years. On existing ships I would survey the COMMS systems for upgrades and refits. For new build ships I would discuss the requirements and possibilities with the navies and then discuss with the shipyards how to achieve them! All good stuff, but the last 10 years I was getting a bit stiff for the climbing, so I sent a younger colleague up while I discussed the existing system and any problems with the crew in the Wardroom😉 Can't see your pic, the site only accepts jpgs etc🤔 An irritation that has often cost me time to do conversions 😡 We'll have to 'gang up' on Fireboat (Stephen) to get this improved. i often wanted to upload a pdf page, but had to convert to jpg etc first😭 Where is this mysterious platform? Maybe I can find it. A large searchlight would not surprise me. Could also be an early radar antenna, need to research the types mentioned above. If the launch has a cabin it may be an 'Admirals Barge', and Admirals had a lot of freedom to paint them how they wanted. So black and mahogany sounds very appropriate to me 👍 Often said on this site (and elsewhere) but: 'The only silly question is the one you don't ask'! Keep up the good work, Doug 😎
Hi, I made the bridge to my drawing. I think it's right. I would think that Noram Ough had his basic dimensions correct. If not I might as well start over! In the pic I am attaching, there is a platform with what looks like a very large searchlight, but it is not clear enough to be sure, Seems a bit unlikely. I am giving her a 36 foot launch. I assume it would have been grey, though I am tempted to paint it black, with varnished wood cabin and mahogany foredeck. I am beginning to feel a bit stupid asking so many questions. I hope you don't feel 'oh no not him again!😡 Never had anyone to consult before. Most of the time here it's me helping others in our little club. You got around a lot of ships all over the world I think. What were you doing, or shouldn't I ask? Regards Norm
Does anyone out there have any experience with Chris Craft Kit #1230? It's 20 years old and I recently retired and decided to take this on. This is also my first attempt at something like this. Having trouble with some of the directions.
[Score: 8/10] 28"/1000g Phantom Single Propellor (3 Blade 35mm) Direct Drive to a Turnigy D2836 1100kv (3 Blade) Powered by LiPoly (7.4v) 2Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through HK 30 A Boat ESC ESC - Comments: Bought it as partly build, and had to take it more or less apart to make it straight. Used a PU glue for the first set of planking, what a mess but it's strong. First trails on water showed that the balance was wrong so have to re-arrange the electronics. Unfortunately the trails also revealed that I had missed something with the sealing (my wife used the same materials for her Classic without any problems) so first of all I'll have to strip parts of the mahogany plating down and redo it :-( before I'll do any thing more on this model.
The maritime museum's event, scheduled for October instead of May, was cancelled as a hurricane blew up the coast and pushed water up the bay flooding a lot of coastal bay towns like St Michaels. I couldn't make the next Port Expo in 2016, but I tried to be ready for the maritime museum in October. I started making the forward bulwarks. The real ship had sections that folded down on bronze hinges a few of which still exist as she still had her forward bulwarks when she came to Baltimore. They could also be removed. I mad all the section as a single piece and I don't intend to make them functional, just something to snag and need to be repaired. As mentioned, the original winch drums warped and I made new ones with styrene drums instead of wood. These vanished around the time I moved and haven't been found yet, so I got some sheet plastic to take the place of the CDs and made a new pair. I have to say, I'm not happy with these at all. I did add a small block of Delrin to each winch to brace the drums against the pull of the braces/springs. Constellation's board at her entry port were carved. I took a photo of an original at the ship and traced it in PaintShopPro. Scaled it to the model and printed it. I glued this to some bass wood. I have some mahogany I can slice some thing slabs off of, and I may try using a rotary tool to carve a set for real, but till then, these will do. I tried to make the tops'l yard parrels which are iron hoops lined with wood. There's a pin for the yard's yoke to ride on, and the hoop can be opened and hinged to be removed. I wanted all that in case I need to remove a yard at some point without pulling down the whole rig. I tried it with some sheet brass, and again, I wasn't too hgappy with the result. We'll come back to that. So, I fiddled around with cutting combs to make hatch gratings, and actually managed to get something done, which led to making the main hatch cover. I had cut a bit of plywood as a cover, just to keep dust from going below while I was working - I based my hatch cover on this piece, framed the bottom; installed ledged for it to sit on inside the hatch coaming, and made gratings and fake beams on top. It's a bit simplified buy what the ship actually had, but it gets the point across. A couple of smaller gratings also got installed giving the deck a more finished appearance. I wasn't thrilled at bumping the bottom of a pool again, but the maritime museum is on the Miles River. I needed to be able to launch and retrieve the model at a boat-ramp or shore, so I started designing a launch-cart....
That's a fair comment but you could say the same about buying a pre-moulded hull or a kit. But, take it to its logical conclusion, do you fabricate your own plywood? Cultivate, and harvest your own balsa wood/bass wood/mahogany? Be a purist if that's what you want but is it right to sneer at others who find their own path to tread?
Hello, Fitted the combing, the deck , and started the Fore Planking, this time with Mahogany planks (5mm x 1.5mm ) and white wood caulking (0.5mm) mounted vertically. Adding some colour to the motor mounts, and drive chain, makes it easier when final assembly takes place as in electrical wiring. Regards Muddy....