Cookies used in this website are gluten free, wheat free and dairy free. By using this website you agree to our use of cookies. More Info
Guest
Login Below
Join Us On Social Media!
   
Get The Model Boats App!
Apple App Store
Android app on Google Play


Help Support This Website
£
or enter custom amount

(Non Contributor)

Help support this free
website and donate.



£285 a year is needed to keep the website and apps online. Please consider donating £5 or more to help towards these fees.
All donations are securely managed through PayPal. Amounts donated are not published online.

Many thanks for your kind support.

Model Boats Website Team


Donation History
June 2018: 6 people
May 2018: 7 people
April 2018: 24 people
March 2018: 13 people
February 2018: 8 people
January 2018: 25 people
December 2017: 7 people
November 2017: 10 people


Unique Visitors This Month

Website Members

Terms and Conditions
Privacy Policy
Advertising
Contact


Model Boats Website
Active Users (15)
Login or Register
To Remove This Ad

Login or Register
To Remove This Ad
>> Home > Tags > mahogany

mahogany
mahogany
Warped wood by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 5 days ago
OK, Doug, you just sold me on Lord Nelson spray varnish! Is it enamel? Obviously it's external capable, but I never heard of it. It would seem to have done your mahogany a treat! I have brush painted and rubbed down cellulose sanding sealer on all the woodwork on Vanity, but will need to varnish it all eventually and whilst I find brushing varnish with a fine sable an almost therapeutic activity, there's always the risk of it building up in internal corners which is almost impossible to shift. Cheers, Martin

Warped wood by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 7 days ago
Evenin' All, I had the same problem with the cabin roof of Dad's 1962/3 built Sea Scout. First I thought I could just remove the ply tops and flatten them, hot water and then under a car battery overnight. But the ply was cracked and curled just at the overhang so even after gluing, soaking and straightening it was still cracked and useless. So finally I soaked the frame alone in hot water and left it under the battery for a day and a night, with suitable wedges to get the right shape . In the meantime I made new roof skins from 1.5mm mahogany. Worked out quite nice in the end. Took a while though to get it right, especially along the centre line seam. Then I set 5mm round neodymium magnets in the corners, with counter parts set on wooden brackets inside the cabin walls to hold it on at speed on the wet stuff. Before assembling and varnishing with Lord Nelson spray gloss varnish I sealed all parts with two coats of Lord Nelson spray wood seal. Survived it's sea trials quite well. https://youtu.be/zPgYicA0yGw Penultimate pic shows the before 🤔, last pic shows the after 😉(while fitting new tinted windows) Cheers, Doug 😎

Fire Boat (crash tender) colours... by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 8 days ago
Hi Doug, I spotted that section round the bottom, too. Interesting. I think it's meant to be a kind of sealing bead of square section, probably ramin or teak. Mahogany wouldn't last long in that position as it doesn't like constant exposure. But it will have to go on the model. The half round can just be filed into the edge of the tops. Martin

Fire Float info. by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 16 days ago
On the colour of paint, my Granddad was a house painter, grainer and marbler and made his own paint for which he gave a 10 year guarantee if he applied it! He explained that until the mid 60s it was not possible to get a pure white, because the carrier oils were all of an amber appearance, so all whites were a bit....off! Good enough for me, but were the cabin sides and decks still grey? Some pics make the cabin sides look mahogany! Martin

Capstan by Jerry Todd Captain   Posted: 28 days ago
I got tired of looking at that stump of a dowel sticking out of the deck and decided to put a proper capstan there. It's built on a 3/4" maple dowel drum, and the base, drum-head, and whelps are from scrap mahogany from that used to make the restored ship's hatch combings. The pawls, bar holes, and base plate are done.

Duke of Cornwall by Neil-S Seaman   Posted: 29 days ago
[Score: 8/10] 51"/7000g Duke of Cornwall Capable of 4mph and a runtime of 30mins Twin Propellors (3 Blade 20mm) Direct Drive to a Torpedo x 2 (3 Blade) Powered by Lead Acid (12v) 6Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through Electrinize (5Amps) ESC - Comments: This was a static scratch built model constructed by a model engineer probably in 1970s, I was gifted the boat by the local RNLI Branch with the proviso I looked after it and occasionally displayed it on Flag Days. The boat is a model of the Lizard and Cadgwith lifeboat 'Duke of Cornwall' which saw service for 20 years and saved 95 lives. I have fitted 6 channel San,wa remote control and the Torpedo engines and batteries. She runs very well on the water and achieves a good scale speed when both motors are at full power. Batteries are 12 volt gel type and new, I have never had a problem with endurance. Control is by two Electronize speed controllers which plug in independently to receiver. She has a two tone siren, worked from retract servo switch, which is useful for clearing a way through birds. Steering (like the real thing) was rather sluggish, a single blade rudder but it improves by using the two engines. She is pretty heavy to lift into the car, I use nylon strops to lower her into water. I have done several adjustments to her topside so that she more correctly resembles the 1962 Barnett lifeboat she is modelled on, main adjustment was to put mahogany veneer onto to forward and rear bulwarks, as the originals had. The original boat topside was painted grey and it was only later that areas were painted orange, she is a non self righting lifeboat one of the last of this type and modifications were made in the mid sixties to seal off the rear doors and provide a watertight compartment, as well as fully enclosing the wheelhouse (the model's wheelhouse is open at the rear, as was the original. All hatches and doors open. The railings are chain link and seem to be a very good match to the ones fitted. My only issue at the moment is the radio wires which seem to be very vulnerable, have used electric thread but not a great solution - something to look out for. I have purchased 3 crew and am about to paint them, two will be in the wheelhouse.

Vanity, Victorian Cutter by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Some deck furniture. As this is all Cuban mahogany, rather than modern pink stuff, I have been able to use it for the decklights and companionways. All joints are either dovetail or mortice and tenon. The bitts, however are pear, because I don't have any mahogany that thick, but then they were oak, so a lighter coloured wood is ideal.

Vanity, Victorian Cutter by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Hi all, a 1/16th scale model of the boat I used to live on at Burnham-on-Crouch. 1/8th" Cuban (yes really!) mahogany from 1920s chairs made by my cabinet maker Grandfather. Covered in J cloth and epoxy. J-cloth is very compliant, but yet very strong when soaked in epoxy (WEST System). Lightweight fillered for the bits where the saw wasn't as accurate ripping the strips as it might have been. Black enamel primer.

Spray painting hulls. by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Ah, cellulose, of blessed memory. I still have some, come to think of it, but forgetfully, I bought black gloss enamel for Vanity and some enamel primer for it also in black First coat on today. But I will definitely experiment with spraying the final coats. I sprayed an old pre-War Marblehead with enamel and it went on well. You can still get cellulose if you can convince the dealer it's for your classic car. My son has a 1951 Renown so I could always quote all IT'S details to get it, but I don't think they'll post it and I'm nowhere near any suppliers geographically. I couldn't see the point in paying for epoxy tissue so I bought a huge bag of J cloths from Poundland and used that with epoxy. Slarred the epoxy on the mahogany hull (made from old chair legs my Grandad had made a dining suite with) and then laid the J-cloth on the tacky epoxy and slarred more on with an old credit card. All my credit cards are old now and a damned site more useful as epoxy squeegees than they ever were before. Got a few ridges where they overlapped, but filler sorted that out. The hull is still very light, so will need all the large lead weights on the end of a long fin keel (removable) as it carries a big rig, (see avatar). Good luck, Martin

Nautic by watson220 Lieutenant   Posted: 1 month ago
Model Yacht Nautic from Grapner. The hull is not original but is made of laminate. The deck is made of mahogany strips. The boat engine is a MIG 480 powered by a Lipol 7,4V 5000mAh battery.

47" Fireboat power question by ronrees Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi Shaun, This design of hull forces the craft higher and higher the faster it goes. When it is high on the plane and almost hanging on the last few inches of propshaft it can fall off the plane either way, usually to the right (Starboard) side because of engine torque. The full size boats were fitted with 2 or 3 engines to help counteract this. The British Powerboat Company, who originally designed the hull that Vospers copied back in the 1930s/40s also noticed this which led to double skinning the hull with 1 inch thick mahogany for extra strength against pounding and falling on the waves. Lowering the drive angle of the propellor shafts and adding more weight from the C of G back to near the stern. We build this 3 screwed designed hull with one mainshaft usually so do not have the benefit of shaft rotation to stabilise the boat at speed. It was in the 1960's that Fairey engineers had the same problems (Swordsman,Huntsman etc) They came up with large transom mounted powered Trim Tabs. Their boats had similar problems and only one shaft in the main. I suggest you try fitting 2 x 2 inch wide by 1 inch deep trim tabs at the very bottom of your transom midway between the keel and the chine as well as move your battery packs forward a bit initially. Try some fast tests with this, you only need 2 to 4 degrees of down on the tabs initially. Add removeable weights near the CG as needed, a bit at a time but don't stop the bow lifting up onto the plane. Have fun, best of luck. Ron Rees

S.S. Bohuslan by Cadet Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 2 months ago
[Score: 5/10] 36" S.S. Bohuslan Single Propellor (4 Blade 40mm) Direct Drive to a Electric (4 Blade) Powered by NiCad (7.2v) Batteries Controlled Through to buy ESC - Comments: Originally a 'Billing kit', no. NR 450. The hull was nearly completed , most of the brass bits are there, and masts, but with a few missing /broken mahogany pieces. But if you visit a Swedish web page you can count the deck stantions and windows. Chris

wooden ladders by deepdiver Commander   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi Like the idea of the jig, did you use mahogany for the ladders? Loving the detail you are putting into this👍 Fred

Bits n pieces arrived / Aft Deck Mk 2 built ;-) by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
6mm lime wood planks from Krick and 4mm tap from Conrad arrived on Wednesday so Full Speed Ahead. This time formers were made from the 6mm lime so no bending or slitting required, new piece of mahogany cut so that this time no inserts left an right were needed. 😊 Formers attached using Rocket cyano and a bag of clamps and left overnight. The 'Riva' tank filler caps were tapped 4mm and appropriate holes bored in the deck piece. Neodymium magnets attached to forward edge. Deck fitted and trimmed in situ for flush fit all round. Transom got scratched during this process so will need a respray🤔 Underside sealed with two coats of EzeKote and sealing / varnishing / lacquering process started on the topside. Last two pics show current status; So Far So Good.😉 Next step; fit windows made of 3mm green tinted acrylic 'glass', which also arrived Wednesday. Will now have to start thinking about what to do in the cockpit 😲 All I have so far is a 25mm ship's wheel. Furniture building is not exactly my Forte! First time for everything I suppose! Suggestions gratefully received!! Ciao for now, Doug 😎 Almost forgot! While waiting for varnish to dry I tackled an old problem with the rudder. Namely; asymmetric rudder throw caused by the rather bulky connecting rod binding on the rudder arm! Suddenly remembered I still had some E-Z Connectors from old aircraft days. Been hanging around for 35 years or so waiting for something to do! So replaced the old plastic linkage with 1mm spring steel rod and two E-Z connectors. Works a treat 😊

Bristol pilot cutter mascotte by kmbcsecretary Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
Today while waiting for the weather to warm up i have started work on the ships boat which when finished will be 8" in length and a beam of 4". I will be making this using mahogany for the whole boat and the first job was to cut, sand and glue the parts that make up the keel. this was made using 5mmx3mm mahogany sandwiched between 2 lengths of 10mmx2mm mahogany which when finished will give 5mm square keel.i have always found it easier doing it this way rather than try and bend the wood.