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>> Home > Tags > mahogany

mahogany
mahogany
Upper & Lower Chines by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 days ago
Excellent Rob👍 Thanks for showing me how to make the mahogany caprail for my cutter 😊 "More power to your chines"😁 Cheers Doug 😎

Formidable by humelvin Seaman   Posted: 23 days ago
[Score: 9/10] 48"/12000g Formidable Capable of 3mph and a runtime of 50mins Single Propellor (4 Blade 65mm) Geared Powered by Lead Acid (12v) 8Amp/h Batteries - Comments: Hemmens 'Formidable' 5 years to make! Double plank on frame. First plank skin fastened with wood trenails. Scale planking. Second skin mahogany strip to Lloyds spec. 10,00 copper rivets. Was intended for Hemmens V-4 steam but chickened out so electric - V-4 now bench run only.

just need cable (wire)... by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Gents, I wanted the soft floppy silicon covered wires, so Halfords wouldn't do. Doug, the odd thing is that when I worked in Germany as a clay modeller, I was often given hard modelling jobs (not clay) which usually meant making complex little mechanisms. So much so that I became known as Mechanical Martin or just "Mekanist". Yet back home fitting all the worky bits to a model boat or even a slot car/model railway loco is the bit I hate! Don't know why, except maybe in the boats/slotcars/locos there is a certain way of doing it which I find a drudge and in the clay studios there was always an element of invention required. Indeed I am the nominated inventor on a VW patent! But, I have run out of space for storage boxes and can only rarely get to a decent pond to run anything, so I am going over to static models only now. 1/24th scale models of mahogany hot rods (woodies), some in scenic set-pieces, maybe. But I'll finish the models I have on the go first. Martin

Decking Completed by Colin H. Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Deck planking using mahogany and pine.

Painting by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
My cabinet maker Granddad always said to stain the finish , never the wood, as stain can kill a grain. He would always use shellac/French Polish and then stain over that with a stain filled further coat of french polish. The same is done with real Rivas and no other boat can claim the finish that Riva always got with stain over Epiphanes varnish. I use cellulose sanding sealer on the wood, then a spirit based stain (NEVER acrylic water based muck) on the sanding sealer and then varnish, proper spar varnish to get that lovely glow. I have always used steamed Pear to represent mahogany in scale, but it does need a little darkening and that's how I do it. That way you control the colour, but don't "kill" the grain. Grandad also said , "always cut wood, boy, don't scratch it, make it bleed", so I became a dab hand with a cabinet scraper and use very little sandpaper. Here, as they say, is one I made earlier using exactly these methods. Martin

Painting by steve-d Lieutenant   Posted: 2 months ago
I have a Huntsman 31 model I am refurbishing. The paint is peeling off from age, the muppet who painted it only applied one coat (Me), the Humbrol enamel was probably too thick for the fine grain of the birch ply and spruce. I am planning to start with cellulose sanding sealer as it is nice and thin so should get a good key into the grain. So.. What paint should I use over the sealer? Some parts of the ply I want to look like teak deck planking so first I think I need a stain. Then line in the planks with fibre tip pen followed by what type of varnish? Some of the spruce needs to look like mahogany so do I stain it or use some sort of paint? Thanks Steve

Kit Quality ETC. by Ianh Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi I have ordered the additional decking material from Jotika. I remember seeing similar boats around Bideford and most cabins had mahogany sides with white rooves and mahogany /teak grab rails

Kit Quality ETC. by canabus Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi Ian. A Mahogany deck with light strips between would look better and another colour for the cabin, but, yes to the brass portholes. Canabus

Kit Quality ETC. by Ianh Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 2 months ago
To give you some idea of the quality of this kit. Here are some photos. The quality is excellent and if you have a bit of experience this can easily be built. I don't fancy the all white look as the original had mahogany cabin sides and brass portholes this is what I will do with it,👍👍

Sadolin by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
Hi Gardener, Don't know the Sadolin stuff, I use Billing Boats stains meself, BUT whatever you use, esp on balsa, apply a coupla coats of sealer first. Then at least one or two coats of clear satin varnish; e.g. from Lord Nelson range from Holland. THEN AND ONLY then, apply your stain til you get the depth of colour you want. After that seal with matt, satin or gloss varnish / lacquer according to taste😉 That's the way I did my Sea Scout 'Jessica' renovation, see blog on this site for results!!! Coupla sample pics attached. The whole process is described in the Blog. Otherwise the balsa will soak up all your stain and still not look right 🤔 A 'preserver' as such is not normally necessary if the wood is properly treated inside and out; sealer, stain, varnish etc! Or just EzeKote resin inside. Stain no needed inside of course. Good luck and above all have fun with your endeavours. 👍 Keep us 'up to date' ('on the running' as my German friends would say; 'auf den Laufenden'!) 😁 Cheers, Doug 😎 PS I like Danish Blue meself 😁😁 On the other hand; I wouldn't have used balsa for speedboat deck in the first place. I use a close grained marine ply 0,8 or 1.0mm. Takes the stain better and looks more realistic. Balsa is too coarse grained for stain and varnish on scale speedboats. Thick coat of paint ... OK. On the cabin roof and after deck (which I had to renew) I used 1.5mm mahogany veneer. If I had to do it again I would use a close grained 0.8mm marine ply (birch or pear) and cherry stain (also Billing) as I used on 'Jessica's deck.

Sadolin by Gardener Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 3 months ago
Has any one used Sadolin wood preserver/stain on balsa wood ? Thinking of staining deck of speed boat in Sadolin Mahogany...

Brass bashin' Chris Craft deck fittings... by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
Just got white metal castings back of the Chris Craft fittings and very nice they are too. They have started to burnish up a treat and will polish well as Paul uses a good quality metal. Nice and hard. Now I have to make the light lenses. Also put the blue bottom on her at the weekend using my one and only pot of Plastikote enamel paint, not the acrylic muck they've turned over to and it went on through my spray gun as smooth as could be. Even my masking worked. Just waiting for a gold pin stripe tape for the boot topping now. The final bit will be masking the deck to paint the covering boards and king plank with the same blue. For those not lucky enough to have a wee pot of proper Plastikote in the paint cupboard, I also got a couple of tins of Rustoleum spray, only 5-25 a pot, enamel (of course) in a nice French blue and a rich cream. These colours will look good on my Darby One Design single stepper "WHO'S DARBY?". Very post War. I think the Oulton Broad One Design single stepper will be Burgundy and the Whippet One Design will be varnished mahogany. I know of no other classes of British stepped hydroplanes. These will all be 1/6th scale as they're all around 12-13 ft. long. I'll probably put the same motors in them eventually. The Darby is well advanced and has a Speed 400, but I may go brushless. Any suggestions for a cheap Brushless/ESC combo will be welcome for, say, 3S Li-Pos. It would be good to see these period boats all racing together. I also plan to make reverse clinker Singer cadet and a Percy See Bugatti engined boat for which I have plans. I'm hoping to get a response from the current keepers of Berylla II about measuring that, too, since it also uses a Lea Francis engine, like the Whippet.

Mid Deck by mturpin013 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
Now I am in the swing of planking I may as well do all the remaining decks that need planking. Therefore, very much the same procedure as before with a mahogany border, followed by caulking the inside edges of the mahogany border, then cutting the planks roughly to length, and then finally trimming on the disc sander for an exact fit. When all he planks have been dry fitted, they can are removed and glued with aliphatic glue. A couple of days to completely dry then it’s on with the sanding before finishing with sanding sealer I marked all the nail holes using the marking tool I made. This is all on this deck until final finishing which will be done with all the other decks.

A return to the hobby! by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
It's a disgrace how bad some plans are from the suppliers. I bought an aircraft drawing to make a De Havilland Hornet Moth. It was about 15 quid...more than enough and was so appalling when I got it back that I had to redraw large parts of it. Arguments about accuracy are one thing, but when the side view and plan of the wing is different it's time to cry "foul". I paid what I thought was an appalling amount for Harold Underhill drawings of a Scottish Zulu fishing boat, but at least they were very detailed and accurate. Mind you for that price they damned well should have been! And don't even get me started on the plans drawn by Gary Griswold of runabouts and mahogany hotrods. I made the one called, (wrongly) Excaliber. It would not support a sigle fair batten through any of its frame's notches, so I added little bits of wood and took some out with a cutting disc until they fitted. Then I realised it was twisted, so had to add a strong diagonal brace while I corrected all the notches. Fortunately, after they were all corrected the brace came out and finally I was able to add skins. I figured it looked like a Greavette racer, so have built it like that. But no thanks to the lousy drawings. Cheers, Martin

Brass bashin' Chris Craft deck fittings... by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 months ago
Colin, these are to fit in with my Chris Craft, which is roughly 1/8th scale, so they just look right. I don't have any dimensions as there are no Chris Craft Special Race Boats in Britain. Not that anyone would dare to question you anyway as nobody gives a toss about classic speedboats over here. We never had those types of boats. The Thames had one or two nice Brookes and slipper launches, but our attempts at speed were never as elegant as the Yanks and were all a bit boxy and unembelished and generally sat upon by authorities who didn't like speed, except at Windermere and Oulton Broad and they were mainly outboard powered with one or two exceptions in aluminium, and paint. Mahogany was strictly for furniture for the English. I will get all these bits cast and will have spares, so if you need any that are among my bits, just holler and I'll see what I can do. May have to charge for metal weight, but that's about it, as I will have to pay for that, even if I can get the bits squeezed in other peoples' moulds. I reckon you could use these on a 1/12th scale model without any doubt being caused. Most boats used two of those vents. A couple of cleats, a light/cum staff holder and screen supports, which I'm also doing but haven't got a picture of. That will comprise left and right, short and central, longer. The glass will slide in cast in grooves. A filler and steering wheel and instruments finish it off. Can't do a bow piece as they are all different and must fit the boat exactly. That's down to you and you can only foil that for the chrome look. Just wait till I have to do some of these! Ain't they gorgeous? Cheers, Martin