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Model Boats Website Team
October 2018: 5 people September 2018: 13 people August 2018: 5 people July 2018: 8 people June 2018: 8 people May 2018: 7 people April 2018: 24 people March 2018: 13 people February 2018: 8 people January 2018: 9 people
Some pictures of the original sails and rigging, to my surprise the carbon fibre mast was in two sections, there is no mention of this in any manual or information regarding this boat. It could be a replacement (Perhaps a fishing rod!).
This is my scratch built 36" RNZAF British Power Boat 64' HSL (arrived in NZ 1940). I actually went on board this vessel in 1968 when it was still in original form (the RNZAF having disposed of it in the 50s) This vessel is still around and has been recently re modelled (2nd time since early 70s) and I was lucky last year to have met the present owner and go on board (2nd time in 49yrs!)and take a few photos. The vessel was modified a number of times by the RNZAF over the years (air intakes, removal of the fore deck machine guns, wheelhouse turret etc so I sort of went in the middle. I found a few drawings of the type in an old mag which had side and top views plus the bulkheads and their positions, so I took them along to a copying shop and kept enlarging them until I had the desired proportions. This worked out quite well and using a few methods from other models I had built, managed to frame (ply) the hull and then fully strip plank it in balsa. It was then fiber glassed. The deck is ply, lined and varnish stained. The wheelhouse is varnished balsa and is removable for access (wheelhouse roof is also removable along with engine cover and foredeck access hatch, - small foredeck hatches open as well.). The wheelhouse interior has detail such as controls, instrument panels, skipper, steps to wardroom etc but is not too detailed as it is not seen. The boat has full lighting by remote switch, lights are all LED. All cowls rotate. The propulsion side has dual everything (motors, ESCs, sound units), would have had 3x but ran out of space! Motors are 28mm 2200Kv water jacketed in-runners (cooled by remotely switched pump) using 30A Chinese ESCs (have 5A BEC, Fwd and Rev). Twin sound units are 'GT Power' car units which have around 40 different sound selections, from Cosworths to diesels and are computer programmable (as well as manually on the unit ) for various functions. I am using one of the v8 sounds (8 cyls short in my application) which I think is as near as you are going to get to 3 Napier Sea Lions (for which there is obviously no sound available) They 'start' 'Idle' and are fully proportional in fwd and rev and can sound quite realistic (will attempt to put up a vid later). Batteries are 2x 2200mah 2s 20c LiPos which will last around 2hrs at least of sailing (they also run the sound units) Still have a few small things left to do (have just made wheelhouse air intakes) but don't want to get too fiddly. Just want to keep it a practical model.
Mornin' Ed, Veery interestink! These PNP ESCs from mTronik are relativley new. I have some mTronik Viper Marine 10A for my smaller 'brushed' boats and on first use I simply have to teach them which way on the throttle stick is forwards and which backwards. Looking at the so called manual for your PNP version I note instructions and notes as in attached pics. How you re-train it I can't see! Maybe just start again from switch on, but watch what you do with the throttle stick. Also seems it 'adjusts' as you use it. Quite what that means they don't explain🤔 Give 'em a ring and ask! I guess you reckoned; 'OK PNP so who needs to look at the manual'! Common mistook!🤔 What do you mean by "I then have to switch it to go forward." Switch what, where and how? And what effect did it have? Cheers, Doug 😎 BTW: what's that right next to the motor with cables trailing over the motor, and why can't I see any suppressor capacitors on the motor?
I have just purchased an already built model of the paddle tug Glasgow. I was going over it, and a few bits struck me as odd. The paddles seem to be on back to front, the row boat seems to be on the wrong side, and the paddle covers are stuck down, making maintenance all bar impossible. I was wondering if anyone had maybe a set of instructions, or a manual, that I could borrow or get copies of. I'm having real trouble finding anything on the net, apart from, out of stock, out of production. Hoping someone can help. Best wishes, Dave W
Hi CB, A word to the wise! 😉 Title of your Harbour entry intrigued me, having had a passing acquaintance with such boats. But when I switched to the entry and was confronted with a solid block of text and numbers my brain just switched off.😲 This is a normal human reaction. Standard writing practise for everything from novels, history books, technical manuals, presentations etc etc is to split the text up into digestible chunks (paragraphs) pertaining to a particular point, technical parameter, process or concept. Hit the End Of Line / Return and . buttons now and again please. Sure your input was interesting but I didn't get beyond the first half line.🤔 Cheers, Doug 😎 BTW; last time I saw those shark's jaw and eye stick-ons was when I pulled 'em off the PTB hull I just renovated. They now adorn the extractor above my cooker😉
Hi Martin, The card starts at 4S because the ESCs recognise 2S and 3S themselves. You only have to tell 'em if you are using bigger batteries. BUT: looking at the manuals I see a whole load of other 'stuff' for the flyboys which is useless for boaters and would need to be switched off🤔 e.g. 'Flywheel', 'Governor'. To change some of these functions you apparently need an 'extension cable' which only further complicates the issue 😡 Sooo! Stick with the deal you found at the start of this thread and just switch off the 'Brake' function. This easy to do. You only have to select the Mode 'Forward/Reverse' or 'No Brake'. The ESC will normally be delivered in Mode 'Forward/Brake/Reverse'. I have done this with all my 'Car' ESCs only takes a few seconds😊 Cheers, Doug 😎
Going back to your query RNinMunich, something over thirty years of my life was as an engineer officer in the RN. Half in sea going appointments and the other half spent mainly directing ship support and maintenance. Great times!! I spent a bit more time today reading up about DF systems. Loop antenna on Wikipedia was interesting. It seems to me that a simple manual DF loop would be a feasible option for the teardrop; it was certainly that on many varied aircraft at that time (inc the Wellington). Also, thinking about the size of the teardrop, it may be small for a DF loop, but comparing it to the other navigation lights, it's really too small to be one of them! I love chasing all over the net trying to find positive solutions to little mysteries!
I bought the model boat kit new from Bournemouth Models in 1998. They were the main suppliers of Robbe models and parts in the U.K. at that time. It came in several boxes and a lot of room in the garden shed. It took some time to assemble all the separate pieces into their respective components. Then final assembly as per the manual and diagrams. Yes the hand rails were there at the beginning, and remained there for the first couple of years. With the standard jib and main sails, there was very little interference with the sheeting. The problems were with the transportation, as they are exposed on the edges. The stansions would catch on clothing while lifting and walking with the model.
Neil I have all the documents scanned to pdf files. Could I post them on this web site, so anyone can download them. Are you able to get them printed. There are 4 full size A0 plans and two Construction Manuals. I Separated the English text, and reconstructed the pages, to be copied on A3, double sided, then put in order and Folded to make the A4 Manual.
Ahoy NPJ. I can copy them and send them to you. There are 4 plans, and they are full size A0. The full instruction manual is a booklet of A4 size. A separate instruction manual for the Genoa/Blister addition. It has some good points on how to manipulate and set the sails, even if you don't have them. I did use a higher while I was building the yacht, so there are marks on the text and diagrams. However, this does not hide or cover the text and diagrams, and you will be able to follow them. It will take a few days to copy, and get ready to post. Ray
Hi Martin, First your last question😉 "What DO you do with a 3rd channel?" Example: 5 foot destroyer! 1 Throttle. 2 Rudder 3 Gun rotation, servo and pulleys 4 Torpedo tube rotation, servo and pulleys 5 Smoke switch, servo and microswitch (Smoke could be linked to the ESC to free this channel for the ASDIC pinger!) 6 Split into four functions (by misusing the gear down lever on my Graupner MC-10😉) for Whoop whoop, Fog horn, searchlights and signal lights, NAV lights. All switched via a home brew decoder / switch board and 5V relays! Alles klar? 😉 Re the DX5e; If I were you I'd let a (supposedly?) Spektum trained guy look at it first. With luck he'll have a service manual or at least a circuit diagram, which I don't 🤔 and should know the binding procedure backwards. I could only do some rudimentary tests without the circuit diagram, and make some educated guesses. I could at least try binding it with a variety of Rxs, including my Spektrun RXs which all work faultlessly with my DX6. Up to you, will PM my address anyway. I could at least check, with a simple RF meter, if the damn thing is transmitting at all! Just thought - if you're going to smash it anyway ........ 😉😁 Cheers, Doug 😎 PS: 4th attempt at the prop shaft for the cutter also failed 😡 She just does not want to get her bum wet!! Too long 'on the shelf' 🤔