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December 2018: 4 people November 2018: 11 people October 2018: 9 people September 2018: 13 people August 2018: 5 people July 2018: 8 people June 2018: 8 people May 2018: 7 people April 2018: 24 people March 2018: 11 people
I built this about 40 years ago, quite a rarity now I believe. Has not been in the water for about 30 years. I plan on bringing it up to date with speed controller and lipos as it used to use large heavy batteries and manual speed controller powered by servo. Hopefully out on the water next Spring/Summer in Hampshire/Dorset. 👍
Jeez!😲 how big is she she? None of my 4 to 5 foot ships weigh half that! Did you make a welded steel hull or what???? I can see we are going to have to design a derrick so you can lower your ships to the ground to get going 😉 Oh and, I still have a corset 😲 with a steel plate set into the back, left over from my last back injury. I'll send it you if you want 😁😁 It goes back to dislocating two discs about 30 years ago - (NO you 'orrible lot I WAS NOT diving off the wardrobe onto the bed ..... !!!) On the other hand; the building is more than half the fun! Confucius he say 'It is better to travel hopefully - than to arrive'.😉 Clever guy. Don't suppose he ever had to contend with lousy instructions in a boat kit or Chinglish transmitter manuals though😁 All the best Ed and better half, cheers, Doug 😎
Good point with the kV rating Rowen 👍 I could try an experiment! Don't know quite why (JFF I suppose😁) I also have a 3500kV motor to play with, WELL it was there and not expensive, WHAT could I do? Guilty as charged yer honor🤔. I could stick that in and see what happens. Maybe I'll have to fit stub wings and floats and turn it into a flying boat😁 Had figured the relays where NO. Hope you remembered the back emf diodes, s'pect you did😉 Guess they are triggered by servo and micro switch, or did you get fancy with transistor drivers? Whatever, great idea👍 All the best, Doug 😎 PS Just a thought! If it's 'kV' problem you could try screwing your drive battery down a cell perhaps? Then maybe it wouldn't be so hyperactive. Another thought (must be the tablets!) many ESCs and TXs let you programme the width / sensitivity of the neutral point. Check your manuals, worth a try.
Hi Westquay It sounds Doug has got it right. I only went over to brushless 3 years ago when I returned to fast electric. All my existing models at the time had brushed motors installed and I did become confused with the "new technology". Having three wires from the motor to the ESC was a bit difficult to comprehend but as the boat was an RTR it was helpful due to having an instruction manual with it. It just takes time and experience to get use to such changes but it will be right in the end. My only experience of a non starter was back in 1976, this being the only time I had a date with a married woman. I had a Lotus Elan then and there was no room in the back and it would have been a waste of time calling the AA to resolve it.😁😎 Boaty
Mornin' Martin, I've never used a trigger throttle (and never want to!) but I suspect that yanking back is Full throttle, which means you need to push it forward for programming!! Corresponding to stick back (or down) on a normal two stick set. Which is motor stop on such an aircraft ESC with no bacckuds. Cheers, Doug 😎 PS: just checked the manual for a typical Flysky Pistol Grip set (usual Chinglish gibberish🤔) but it confirms that trigger hard back is 'Full Ahead' !! BTW: since you appear to be using an aircraft ESC on a Car/Boat radio set (not a good idea!) make sure that before you switch on the RX that the throttle trigger is pushed right forward. Otherwise the motor will go off half cock straight away. If you release the trigger it will probably go to the 'Half Ahead' position. So mind your fingers.😡
Hi Martin, Looks like this one XXD HW30A 30A Brushless Motor ESC For Airplane Quadcopter Which means it ain't got no backuds! But I don't suppose that bothers you. Attached is the manual as pdf. Before you can run the ESC you have to program the type of battery; LiPo or NiMH. The ESC then sets the correct cut off voltage to protect the battery from deep discharge. See second page of pdf file for instructions. The ESC has a 5V 2A BEC. If you use a separate RX battery you MUST disconnect the small red wire from the RX plug! Bon chance, Cheers, Doug 😎
H Martin, sorry it took longer than expected got bogged down in other things🤔 Sooo! Scouring the docs I could find (see attached PDF files) I was surprised not to find the usual table of Number of photos or video length vs memory available! Anyway two significant statements I did find- 1) "Movie length - up to 29 minutes" When I see 'up to' I read that as with the lowest resolution, in this case 640*480 pixels. Which you can forget; tha's like a 20+ year old PC and worse than the old UHF 605 line TV pictures.🤔 2) "Movie resolution -1280x720/ 30fps (HD). Now that's more like it😊 BUT: in the manual I then found- "The option FHD and HD only available when a Micro SDHC class 4 or higher speed class card is inserted." Soooo! get yourself a 32GB (not sure if a 64GB card will work!) memory card SDHC class 4 and awaaaay you go 👍 BTW the internal memory is only 64MB so you can forget that for video. Seems only to be used for storing user settings (made in the camera menu) and a few photos. I recommend using only the memory card for photos and above all videos. Happy shooting Mr Director, Cheers Doug 😎 BTW: '720p' just means 720 pixels (Picture cells) vertically, using Progressive scan, as opposed to Interlaced. Thought you might like to know that 😁😁
Don't know if it is still available, but I downloaded the construction manual for the Graupner Valvdiva, which has a joggled king plank and curved planking which is started on the outer edge of the deck. I haven't tried it yet, but it appears to be a good "how to." Greatest concern for me is bending the planks to the curve of the deck, as they are wider than their thickness.
Evenin' Martin, Forget the Mbps (Megabits per second), what counts is the resolution of the photos or videos that you take. The higher the resolution (more dots per picture or Frame in the case of video) the more 'dot' information has to be stored = more memory and a faster Mbps rate are needed. Not to mention the number of frames per second, FPS; you film at! Anything over 25FPS fools the eye and the brain into 'seeing' continuous movement. very high frame rates, up to 50FPS, are only needed if you are filming F1 Hydroplane races or similar! Sooooo, higher resolution or frame rate means shorter playing time for a given amount of memory, i.e. your micro card. In the camera menu there will be a point in the Video section where you can select the resolution. HD is best !! Set the camera to HD (or Fine) resolution, record a 5 or ten minute video and check how much space you have left on your card. Most camera displays will give you this info in terms of 'Time left' at the set resolution. My Sony and Pentax do . Again, give me the camera make and model and I'll see if I can find this info on the manufacture site. Bon chance mon ami, cheers Doug Most cameras also have some fixed internal memory as well as a card slot, with a corresponding Menu point where you can choose where to store your photos or videos. There is also usually a section in the manual describing the video function and a table of resolution settings versus how long you can record with a given memory size. These days the User Guide supplied with the camera is often very rudimentary and you are invited to download the full Monty manual from the manufactures website. The 'User Guide' should contain this web address. Give me the camera make and model number and I'll see what I can find.
Some pictures of the original sails and rigging, to my surprise the carbon fibre mast was in two sections, there is no mention of this in any manual or information regarding this boat. It could be a replacement (Perhaps a fishing rod!).
This is my scratch built 36" RNZAF British Power Boat 64' HSL (arrived in NZ 1940). I actually went on board this vessel in 1968 when it was still in original form (the RNZAF having disposed of it in the 50s) This vessel is still around and has been recently re modelled (2nd time since early 70s) and I was lucky last year to have met the present owner and go on board (2nd time in 49yrs!)and take a few photos. The vessel was modified a number of times by the RNZAF over the years (air intakes, removal of the fore deck machine guns, wheelhouse turret etc so I sort of went in the middle. I found a few drawings of the type in an old mag which had side and top views plus the bulkheads and their positions, so I took them along to a copying shop and kept enlarging them until I had the desired proportions. This worked out quite well and using a few methods from other models I had built, managed to frame (ply) the hull and then fully strip plank it in balsa. It was then fiber glassed. The deck is ply, lined and varnish stained. The wheelhouse is varnished balsa and is removable for access (wheelhouse roof is also removable along with engine cover and foredeck access hatch, - small foredeck hatches open as well.). The wheelhouse interior has detail such as controls, instrument panels, skipper, steps to wardroom etc but is not too detailed as it is not seen. The boat has full lighting by remote switch, lights are all LED. All cowls rotate. The propulsion side has dual everything (motors, ESCs, sound units), would have had 3x but ran out of space! Motors are 28mm 2200Kv water jacketed in-runners (cooled by remotely switched pump) using 30A Chinese ESCs (have 5A BEC, Fwd and Rev). Twin sound units are 'GT Power' car units which have around 40 different sound selections, from Cosworths to diesels and are computer programmable (as well as manually on the unit ) for various functions. I am using one of the v8 sounds (8 cyls short in my application) which I think is as near as you are going to get to 3 Napier Sea Lions (for which there is obviously no sound available) They 'start' 'Idle' and are fully proportional in fwd and rev and can sound quite realistic (will attempt to put up a vid later). Batteries are 2x 2200mah 2s 20c LiPos which will last around 2hrs at least of sailing (they also run the sound units) Still have a few small things left to do (have just made wheelhouse air intakes) but don't want to get too fiddly. Just want to keep it a practical model.
Mornin' Ed, Veery interestink! These PNP ESCs from mTronik are relativley new. I have some mTronik Viper Marine 10A for my smaller 'brushed' boats and on first use I simply have to teach them which way on the throttle stick is forwards and which backwards. Looking at the so called manual for your PNP version I note instructions and notes as in attached pics. How you re-train it I can't see! Maybe just start again from switch on, but watch what you do with the throttle stick. Also seems it 'adjusts' as you use it. Quite what that means they don't explain🤔 Give 'em a ring and ask! I guess you reckoned; 'OK PNP so who needs to look at the manual'! Common mistook!🤔 What do you mean by "I then have to switch it to go forward." Switch what, where and how? And what effect did it have? Cheers, Doug 😎 BTW: what's that right next to the motor with cables trailing over the motor, and why can't I see any suppressor capacitors on the motor?