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>> Home > Tags > manual

manual
manual
aft pictures by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 6 days ago
Hi Ian, managed to find the original Billings Boats drawing and the build manual here http://www.billingboats.com/2/13/boats/the-expert/P-bb437-no... Have fun, nice subject 👍 bit fiddly for me though 😲 Cheers Doug

Help Needed new Builder Billings St Canute by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Go for it Frodo 👍👍 Look forward to the pics (Build Blog?) and 'Maiden' vid 😉 PS I have downloaded the 'destructions' and find that the German translation from the Danish is slightly better, but the format of Billing's instructions is basically Sh-one-T. Instructions for 'Insiders'. Ran across this phenomenon professionally here in Germany with Operating Manuals and System Descriptions written by the development engineers. THEY KNEW how it all worked!😲 I had to introduce a new style which helped the guy confronted with the 'beast' for the first time to use it and to fix it if the wheels fell off. And for the Admiral a System Description which would simply explain to him why he should spend his hard fought budget on that particular equipment or system. Lots a fun 😉

Grimmershorn II by CB90 Commander   Posted: 2 months ago
[Score: 5/10] 40"/5000g Grimmershorn II Capable of 7mph and a runtime of 60mins Single Propellor (3 Blade 70mm) Direct Drive to a 950 (3 Blade) Powered by Lead Acid (12v) 12Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through 15A 24v (5Amps) ESC - Comments: The Motor vessel 'Grimmershorn' was built in 1956/57 by Hansa Stahlund Schiffbau GmbH at Koln-Deutz for the Waterways and Shipping Administration at Cuxhaven.Her Daimler-Benz four stroke diesel engine had an output of 500hp. permitting a speed of 11.5 knots. The model hull and deck are vacuum formed ABS, timber work of precision cut ply, 2 full size plan sheets and a construction manual along with a fittings pack complete this kit. Technical Data Scale: 1:20 Length: 1038mm Beam 305mm The Grimmershorn was the second major kit I purchased from a model shop on the outskirts of Harlow in Essex back in the 1980s. The Krik kit is still produced and sold today. My build was a slow and lost enthusiasm so after completing the hull, deck, motor and bow thruster installation I gave the boat to my father in-law who completed the superstructure and sailed the boat for a while, eventually the boat was given back to me when the father in-law moved house. I then repaired the rudder, added a moving radar, a adjustable water cannon and pump also various extra fittings such as a detailed life raft and crane, buoys and captain figure. thus renamed the boat as Grimmershorn II a Search and rescue fire boat.

Newbie radio control question by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi All, don't sweat about mode 1 or 2, you can easily reprogramme any stick or switch or pot to do whatever you want on any RX channel you want!👍 If you want the ratchet throttle stick on the right hand side just swap the sticks over! There are instructions in the manual and demos on U-tube. I have one, a re-branded German version which they call 'Reely HT-6', and spent an entertaining evening chucking out all the fixed wing and heli presets. Attached is the excellent 68 page English User / Programming manual I got with it. It has no Chin-english gobbledygook in it 😉 I reprogrammed mine for various boats and a Sub no problems. A Good Buy, Cheers Doug 😎 PS I program my sets always for right stick rudder and throttle, leaves the left hand free for any 'special effects', or the Bierkrug 😉 - I sail here on a lake in a Biergarten 😁

Aerokits Patrol Torpedo Boat by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
PS: Attached is the user manual for a typical Quickrun Car brushless ESC. Par 3 shows how to program it using the TX. Para 5 shows a table of the options available and the presets marked with black background! I used the programmer to set the Running Mode to Mode 3, i.e. No Brake between forward and reverse! the programmer is also useful for setting other parameters; esp number of battery cells and Low Voltage cut off. Hope this helps to know what to expect😉 Cheers Doug 😎

Aerokits Patrol Torpedo Boat by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi MB, Sorry for late response, I've been occupied with varnishing and painting of my Sea Scout renovation. The Turnigy i6 and Flysky FS-6 are hardware identical but have slightly different software, not critical I understand. I have the German branded version of the Turnigy i6, called here HT-6. Attached is the excellent German / English User / Programming manual without the Chenglish gobbledygook! Flysky Chenglish manual also attached for comparison. Only mistake I found in the manual is re Binding (see pic); they mention Binding button on the RX when it is on the TX at bottom left Item 13 in the attached pic of my German branded Reely version. BTW; iA6 is the RX type number. The TX is TGY-I6 or FS-6 for Flysky. Pics 4 & 5 show my Reely HT-6 and Turnigy TGY-I6 versions. Identical except for labelling, same goes for the Flysky - see manual. Re: Servos: I have tested my TX and an iA-6 RX with all sorts of servos; Sanwa, Futaba, Hitec amongst others some going back 30 years and they all work fine. I currently have an iA-6 RX and ancient Hitec standard rudder servo in my Sea Scout and it works just fine. Re: controlling the ESC; it just plugs into the RX like a servo. Usually channel 1 or 3 depending on whether you want throttle on the right or left stick respectively. Re: 3D printed stuff 'brittle or not'; depends on what type of filament they use for the print so can't really say. Up to now have not had problems. What I have noticed with some 3D plastic and resin items is surface defects, pits etc, which need some treatment before fitting. Resin also tends to be more brittle than 3D plastic prints. Resin don't bend well and don't like knocks! As I discovered with the resin gun barrels on my Graf Spee 😡 Will be replaced shortly with turned brass or Alu! Re: LiPos; attached is a file from Model Boats mag of Hints and Tips for using LiPos. It also explains the tech jargon surrounding brushless motors, i.e. interpreting model numbers and parameters😉 All for now, cheers Doug 😎

4 Motors 1 Stick by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
Hi Steve, I have a much better English manual for the Turnigy TXs, only the 6 Ch version but the basics are the same just - extrapolate the channel allocation instructions to 9 channels, and no Chinese gobbledygook like from Hobbyking😊 Conrad shop here in Germany market the same beast under their brand-name 'Reely', yes really😉 PDF to download attached. Good luck, Doug 😎

4 Motors 1 Stick by kmbcsecretary Admiral   Posted: 3 months ago
Something went wrong with the download if you go on hobbyking.com and search turnigy 9x you will find the manual in the file uploads

4 Motors 1 Stick by kmbcsecretary Admiral   Posted: 3 months ago
Here is the manual

4 Motors 1 Stick by kmbcsecretary Admiral   Posted: 3 months ago
Here is the manual

happy hunter by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
Hi Dave, fortunately it disappeared fairly soon after I started practical engineering, was banned as a manual solvent cleaning agent in it's pure form, as we had it😡 Often wondered if such things in my early working days could account for some of my 'little eccentricities' 😉

upgrading Turnigy i6 to 10 channels by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 months ago
No sweat Rob! 👍 Anyone else need a readable and comprehensive manual for the Turnigy i6 (or whatever your version is called!)? Just PM me. Cheers Doug 😎

upgrading Turnigy i6 to 10 channels by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 months ago
Hi Dave, yes you're right. My version is marketed by Conrad here in Germany under the brand name REELY and they call it the 'HT-6'. It came with comprehensive manuals in German and good English on a mini CD-RM. When I checked on the Conrad site (they have an excellent Downloads page 😊) I found an update from 2015. I had no problems completely programming the TX unit from this manual. The only error in it was in para. 16 "press the binding button on the receiver ..." when of course it is on the TX! But at least the photo legend was correct😉 If anyone wants a copy of the PDF file PM me and I'll mail it to them. This reminds me of the discussion we had on this unit and clones / branding a few months ago! When I looked on the Turnigy site I found only the half Chinese half English gobbledygook manual 🤔 which needs a lot of interpretation. Penalty I paid for much better documentation was that Conrad price was nearly twice the Turnigy/Hobbyking price 😡 Good luck Chris, - if I were you I'd do a 'Factory Reset' and start from scratch step by step. Cheers Doug 😎 PS w.r.t. 'using what for what' My Turnigy/Reely will probably be used for most surface ships. Will probably use my Spektrum DX6 for the Catalina, and I still have the old Graupner MC-10 40MHz for the two subs where 2.4 gig don't woik 🤔. MC-10 only has two model memories so that fits! Now what can I do with the old Sanwa 35Meg job??? 30 years old and still going strong 😉

upgrading Turnigy i6 to 10 channels by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 months ago
Hi Dave, you are correct, and actually that is mentioned, page 19 of the 2015 manual version. Worked for me when I assigned the extra switches and pots to appropriate channels. Cheers Doug 😎

LiPo Battery Monitor by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 months ago
Hi Andy There are many variations on the market but they all work basically the same way. Most modern Lipo ( and all Lithium based batteries) come with a small white plug with multiple contacts as well as the main power plug, usually connected to some heavy duty wires. The plug is connected to the battery negative at one end and then each pin is connected to the negative on the next battery etc. This allows the individual cell voltages to be measured. The monitors do this automatically when connected to the plug the correct way, if it doesn't light up it's probably the wrong way round. In my experience the monitor connector is not marked so you may need to try different combinations to find the correct way. You will not damage anything if you get it wrong. When correctly connected the monitor will display each cell voltage then the total voltage. This usually repeats after a few secs until you disconnect If you have a charger they have a selection of different size sockets for the number of pins and can only be inserted the correct way. You will need the manual that came with the charger to select the correct screen to display the values, but most can be found if you Google. Glad to hear you have a monitor, LiPos can be damaged if not kept balanced, or discharged below 3v ( some are higher, usually the high power versions) Hope his helps