Cookies used in this website are gluten free, wheat free and dairy free. By using this website you agree to our use of cookies. More Info
Guest
Login Below
Join Us On Social Media!
   
Get The Model Boats App!
Apple App Store
Android app on Google Play


Help Support This Website
£
or enter custom amount

(Non Contributor)

Help support this free
website and donate.



£285 a year is needed to keep the website and apps online. Please consider donating £5 or more to help towards these fees.
All donations are securely managed through PayPal. Amounts donated are not published online.

Many thanks for your kind support.

Model Boats Website Team


Donation History
October 2018: 5 people
September 2018: 13 people
August 2018: 5 people
July 2018: 8 people
June 2018: 8 people
May 2018: 7 people
April 2018: 24 people
March 2018: 13 people
February 2018: 8 people
January 2018: 9 people


Unique Visitors This Month

Website Members

Terms and Conditions
Privacy Policy
Advertising
Contact


Model Boats Website
Active Users (11)
Login or Register
To Remove This Ad

Login or Register
To Remove This Ad
>> Home > Tags > marine esc

marine esc
engineering show
deans marine
marine esc
marine modelling
marine models
submarine
u35 clockwork submarine
marine esc
Mixer by teejay Commander   Posted: 13 days ago
Hi Doug I am using 3 mtroniks viper marine 15 ESC,s and 3 MFA RE-380-Pole DC Motors all have been tested singularly at low speed and connected to 4mm propeller shafts and 30mm propellers and all went well

Calculating scale speed by Colin H. Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 26 days ago
Thanks Doug I hope that your not getting too stressed by my motor restoration, I'm looking at buying another supermarine, boxed unused, box looks awful but motor is still all shiny. If I can get the price down to my level it will be for the vintage history display. What esc would you recommend for the one you are restoring. Not getting much done at present as I am trying to sort out building work on new wetroom before I go for my operation. So I will be back on the models after my knee surgery is done. Checked the launch this morning using my satnav strapped to the cabin roof. After a 300 meter run at full speed it read 7.01mph. So that really was pleasing to see. Got to go sparky just arrived. Cheers Colin.

BRAVE BORDERER - BRUSHLESS SUMMARY by RHBaker Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 27 days ago
Although have modeling experience, all my earlier vessels used brushed motors. This was my first brushless. The model is now running well, but thought, for the benefit of others considering this transition to summarize my experiences. Must stress the performance of a brushless motor is incredible when compared to a similar sized brushed; for a vessel such as this they are almost obligatory. They are worth the trouble! Had been advised that the best powertrain installation for a 37” Brave Borderer is either a single or twin screws, not three. This was good advice! Much heartache could have been avoided with a single screw installation. Unfortunately, that is not the correct layout for a scale builder. Tried three major powertrain iterations, with several variations within each group. All motors are 28mm O/D : 1) The original installation used 3 x 4600kV inrunner motors with 30 A ESCs. Had bought these items used. The motors were too fast and had little torque. The ESCs also did not have adequate capacity. The result was erratic performance, a high fuse failure rate and the eventual failure of an ESC and motor Picture #1. 2) First upgrade was to 2 x 2400kV inrunner motors, using 50A capacity ESCs. The centre shaft was fitted with a brushed motor. This combination did work, although suffered greatly from motor “squeal” and “stutter”. Eventually a motor burnt out and failed. Picture #2 3) Upgrade two: retained the 50 A ESCs, with 2 x 2600 kV outrunner motors, again with the brushed inner shaft motor. Reprogrammed the ESCs to soft start parameters. Much better, performance and reliability can now be considered acceptable. The squeal and stutter are largely corrected It has justified the challenges of getting here. Picture #3 Have tried both 2 and 3S Li-Po batteries, suggest use the minimum voltage needed to achieve the desired performance. Higher voltages translate into faster response and performance, but with less control modulation. The model can be easily overpowered. In summary, from my experience. For a marine application; chose low (under 2000kV) kV rating motors with an outrunner layout wherever possible (produce more torque than inrunners). Use ESCs with a ratings comfortably in excess of the motor ratings, fit fuses to supplement any ESC protections. Ensure the ESCs are programmed to “soft start” characteristics. Also, the obvious check of making sure shaft alignment is correct is even more important with the higher speed capability of brushless motors. In spite of the trails, cost and tribulations of getting here. Have enjoyed the challenge and the end result does justify the means. Also, do not finally fit the deck until you are satisfied with the performance. Making the changes described with limited access would have been very difficult and frustrating.

Taycol Supemarine Resurrection by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
My mate said it as Chrodite, with narey a hint of a pause, so I just assumed he knew what it was. I think it's effectively Admiralty brass, more or less. Not quite bronze, which is BLOODY hard! But ace bearing material. Goes brown but doesn't corrode further. He made hundreds of his own bolts from it, but had to sell the boat before he finished it. Bearings for a Supermarine? Mine has its original stuff, Just the end plates of Paxolin with felt oil pads held on with a pressed brass cap. It's worked all these years and there's not a thou. of slop. Amazing. I suppose though, mine never really got a lot of use in the few years I used it. Only odd weekends for as long as a pair of lantern batteries would last. Maybe 10 minutes each! Anyway, if it gets another working, great news. I'd like to see Colin's fleet of old codgers. I'd feel right at home Mind you, I sent off for a brushless ESC today and will have to get some batteries soon to test the motor. Its a tiddler, but it's 174 watts, so should work. Worth a try anyway as it cost me nowt. Martin

Cheap motor for a quick fit, but what prop gents?... by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Mornin' (😲) Martin., First off; the Hornet ain't mine, wish it was 🤔 I had a look on the Lesro Models site to get an idea of what the prop would have to shove! Was surprised to see it is my hull with a different lid! The current kit is 80 quid BTW. To the motor / ESC; Yeah, you could use an 11.1V LiPo on that motor. BUT your ESCs probably are not LiPo SAFE! Which means that they won't have an automatic shut off or slow down function for when the battery is getting near it's Suicide voltage; roughly anything below 3.0V. Some say 2.7 but I don't risk that. So you would have to be cautious on the first runs and frequently check the remaining volts to learn how long you can run before you risk damaging the LiPo. If you can squash it in how about a 12V 10 cell NiMh? That should give you a good turn of speed with the 35mil prop. Bit heavy though🤔 I use an 11.1V LiPo in my Sea Scout with a 1000kV brushless. i.e. ca 11.100 rpm full bore, and that lifts her snout quite well as you have seen. Hope you find the motor, you seem to make a habit of 'mislaying' motors! Have you found the Supermarine yet? Apropos Supermarine; I've just been asked to renovate one 😉 Looking forward to that so I can see it's coil construction first hand. Will help me refine the mod instructions for you.😉 ESCs; mail me any printing on them and photos and maybe I can identify them and their capabilities. The switch makes me think maybe they do have BEC! The leads don't go nowhere cos it's only there to switch on the ESC / BEC. In my experience only ESCs with BEC have such a switch. Easy way to find out; set up an RX with a servo, plug the ESC lead into the RX, stick a battery on the ESC WITHOUT motor, switch on the TX and the ESC (move the switch to the end where two wires are connected) and see if the servo responds to the TX or any LEDs flash on the RX. Or just measure the volts across the red and black wires on the RX plug! If the ESC has a heat sink I don't think you need worry too much about current capability. Use your natty new Wattmeter to measure the current drawn by the motor as you run it slowly up to full speed. 😉 Don't think you need worry about volts either; all but the teeny weeny ones (like the fingernail size 3.7V ESCs I just bought for my Plastic Magic ships with only a 1S LiPo supply) can normally handle at least 12V, it's current that usually kills 'em😡 Sorry; Your electro-boards are still here, haven't been too mobile lately🤔 So I ordered some prepaid DHL labels (arriving Thursday) and will then get them to collect your parcel from me. Will email when they're finally underway. Cheers, Doug 😎

ESC info... by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
I was looking at that one! But as for the programming card...Gawd knows. I wouldn't know where to begin! Right now I'm bloody panicking as I can't find the Supermarine motor for the Crash Tender! I thought it was in the old motor drawer, but it ain't. I'm crossing fingers it's in a box in the loft. My son-in-law will have to go up there when the weather cools. Even he doesn't deserve the temperatures up there! Got my watt meter today, so that's now in a box with the condition meter and multi-meter, oh and the chenglish Charger and its power pack. BL motor and CNC 32mm prop still on the slow boat. So the ESC will be the last of the clobber for a while. By the time I have it all together it'll be Winter and all put away again! Thanks again, Doug. Cheers, Martin

Hull Pt2: Motorisation - Come What May!! by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
As promised (or threatened?😁) stage two of the hull work and thoughts on motorisation. The hull was sprayed with two coats of grey primer/filler. Pic1. As usual this showed up the remaining imperfections (pics 2 & 3), but I'm not going to worry about them until I've got prop shaft tube and rudder stock sorted out and permanently fitted 😉 After my attempts to make and thread a 3mm prop shaft went awry Martin (Westway the Mechanicals Master👍) stepped in and made me a decent one complete with a bushed stuffing tube 👍 Vielen Dank Meister😊 I did however manage to make a 4mm to 3mm reducer so that I could fit a Rabeosch 35mm prop as seen in pics 2 & 3. The tube and shaft from Martin, arrived Saturday an' he only made it on Monday😊, have been dry fitted so that I can start setting up the gears, necessary to bring the drive down to the prop shaft fitted very low down in the hull, and motor mount. Pic 4. Motorisation: (Remember folks - this kit was designed and built as a static model!) I want to use the old 1950s Taycol Target motor which my Dad originally fitted in the Sea Scout which I have renovated and upgraded to brushless. See Build blog 'Sea Scout - Jessica' Many of you will know that the Taycol motors were field coil motors, meaning that they have no permanent magnet around the rotor coil, and thus reversing the battery connections to the brushes had no effect on the direction of rotation, as this simply reversed the magnetic fields of both stator and rotor coils🤔 To counteract this so that the motor could be used in both forward and reverse with a conventional brushed ESC I modified the motor slightly (separated the two coils) and built a simple converter board to connect it to the ESC. Again see the Sea Scout blog for the details of the conversion. Basically; once the field coil and brush-gear (rotor coil) have been separated a simple diode bridge can be used to apply the output of the ESC to the motor. This enables the reversal of EITHER field OR rotor coil polarity, depending on how you connect the converter to the motor. Thus reversing the direction of rotation of the motor. Beneficial side effect is that the diodes also suppress the commutator sparking😊 In my case, with the Taycol Target, I also cleaned, flattened and polished the commutator. Thus significantly reducing the potential for spark generation in the first place! A peculiarity of the Taycol motors is that they all use metal brushes, pressed phosphor bronze strip, so they need oiling! DO NOT oil conventional brushed motors with carbon brushes unless the brushes are exchangeable or you want to have to buy a new motor!!!!! Pics 5 & 6 show the proposed position of the Taycol in Gina 2 and pic 7 the prototype converter board I knocked up to test the motor, together with a Graupner Navy V30R Marine Brushed ESC. Details and results in the Sea Scout blog, including video of the sparks and oscilloscope pics of the drive waveforms before and after conversion! The latter showing the spark suppression effect of the converter😊 Some samples attached - last 3 pics. Pic 8 pic shows a more compact version of the converter, one of a few types I'm doing for Martin's various Taycols as a trade for the prop shaft he made for me and some useful material he sent. Thanks mate👍 Next steps will be 1) mounting the gears correctly on the shafts, requiring the manufacture of a 3/32" to 4mm adaptor and a 1/8" to 4mm adaptor, and keying them to the shafts - Hooray for mini milling machines 😉 2) manufacturing bushed end plates to hold the gears in place, 3) fitting the motor mounting platform. I'll probably borrow from my experiences of real shipbuilding and do this as a suspended 'false floor', i.e. mounted on stiff springs to enable adjustments to optimise the gearing mesh! On real naval ships this is done to improve shock resistance and to minimise engine noise / vibration conduction to the hull, thus significantly reducing the acoustic signature of the ship. Not that I'm tooo worried about being torpedoed 😁 Worth a try😉 Pic 9 shows the cleaned up and renovated Taycol Target motor. Pic 10 shows the drive waveform complete with sparks before modification.🤔 Pic 11 the cleaned 'forward' waveform with the converter board. Pic 12 the cleaned 'reverse' waveform, no suppression capacitors needed 😉 More soon folks, Cheers, Doug 😎 PS Along the way a new keel was fitted as can be seen in pics 1 to 3. The original builder had 'buried' the keel in the hull planking! 😲

Spektrum, new, useless... by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 months ago
Hi Martin, You do like living dangerously don't you!? 😉 Why don't you ever buy anything from the same manufacturer to be sure it will work, or have the chance of regress if it don't! Anyway, since you've been an' gorn an' dunnit - Ignore the PPM, that just means Pulse Position Modulation. A type of TX modulation waveform that you don't need for the Spektrum TX. Forget the Stat as well. I suspect that that should be SAT for a Satellite RX. No that don't mean you can watch telly on it😉 It's just a connection for a secondary RX. Never ever seen one in action! The others are the usual aircraft / chopper functions in a particular TX Mode, so you can ignore the labels. We can use the channel outputs for whatever we want in a boat. Attached is a description of the binding I found in an RC flight forum. A little bit Chenglish but clear enough I think. Your Simprop 18A job should be more than man enough for your Supermarine. I don't expect that it will eat more than 10 or 12Amps. Put a 15A fuse in the + supply between motor and the mod board that makes it run ahead & astern; i.e. the + output of the bridge rectifier. That will protect the motor coil and brushes. Put another in the + from battery to ESC to protect the ESC and rectifier. Rectifier should be rated at least 20A peak forward current. 30A might be better in case your Supermarine is hungry! In that case use 20A fuses. 10A was enough for my little Target 😉 See attached pic for the mods to the Supermarine. Connections from the rectifier board to motor are- + and - of the rectifier go to the brush terminals. Of the two ~ (= AC) one goes the field coil. The other goes to the - wire from the ESC. + from the ESC goes to the other end of the field coil. If the motor runs wrong way (with respect to throttle stick) just reverse the brush wires as usual. Don't forget the suppression capacitors, you may not need 'em due to the spark suppression by the rectifier but ... JIC😉 Bon chance mon ami 👍 Cheers,Doug 😎

Spektrum, new, useless... by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 months ago
Hi Doug, sorry, missed this one. I have the Taycol Supermarine for the CT. I have a Simprop 18 Amp Brushed ESC and a couple of big uns with cooling which I will photograph and attach to another post. I have just received the new Rx. It's a Storm S603, but it has plugoles that I am not familiar with. At one end it says PPM, then Batt, Aux, Gear,Rudd,Elev,Aile and Thro, with the bind socket sideways under the throttle end and something else with a wee gold pad next to the bind plug socket. But at the other end of the case there is a port marked STAT. So PPM and Stat are new to me. I had a gander on Youtube, but no explanation. Naturally being Chinese there are no instructions. Anything I should bear in mind before I try binding it to the DX5e? Cheers, Martin

RE ads90's Vosper Firefloat by nasraf Commander   Posted: 4 months ago
It is a little while ago since this subject was raised but I came across it to day whilst passing my time looking through this continuingly interesting web site, but for what it is worth I will outline a bit I know about the RAF marine branch. I was one of the last National Service RAF enlisted men and started my service 5 th April 1960. I was then trained as an Air Wireless Fitter at Yatesbury and on passing the reqired tests was posted to RAF Mountbatten in May 1961, this was sited on the coastline of Plymouth Sound and the marine craft were moored on the Cattewater. Not long before I got there, the main base for the RAF Marine activities was on the I. of W. at Calshot but the decision had been made, due to the great contraction of the marine arm, as helicopters had taken over the rescue task and the loss in interest in aircraft operating from water, the MU ( Maintenance Unit ) was moved to the operational station at Plymouth. Mountbatten was quite busy with various activities and it was the H.Q. of Coastal Command the other activities was in providing targets for Shackelton training, dingy drill for aircrew and survival training for aircrew on Dartmoor. All the useful marine craft were moved to Plymouth and I would imagine things like Fire Floats would have been disposed of prior to the move. All that was at Mountbatten were RTTL's of various standards, RSL's and Pinnance's. The only strange item was an old Rescue Launch which was powered by 3 Napier Lion engines, all the later RTTLs had Rolls Royce Merlin derivatives. This was the only large boat that I ever had a fast ride on, but unfortunately we were only a few miles out of the Sound when one of the engines failed and we had to limp home. I never had a fast trip on a RTTL. I used to have lots of trips outside the breakwater on RSL's on RAF crew dingy drill, when the pilot under training had to jump off the boat with his uninflated dingy and when the RSL made as many waves as possible he had to inflate it and climb in whilst the launch continued to rough the sea up as much as possible. He then stayed in his dingy for about 45 minutes which was not very pleasant in winter. It was for us lesser mortals an enjoyable spectator sport to see commissioned officers undergoing sme discomfort. I think that all the odd marine equipment was lost when Calshot closed.

Brooklyn by figtree7nts Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 5 months ago
[Score: 10/10] 39"/2700g Brooklyn Capable of 4mph and a runtime of 60mins Single Propellor (3 Blade 80mm) Geared to a 12 Volt Dumas Motor (3 Blade) Powered by Lead Acid (12v) 5Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through Mtroniks Viper Marine 15 Amp (5Amps) ESC - Comments: She has a 12 volt Dumas Motor and a 15 amp Mtroniks viper marine ESC! Also has a 12 volt Harbor Models Smoker. Tug Brooklyn Completed on Aug' 25, 2018! She took 8 months to complete!

More running in at Bournville. by Novagsi0 Admiral   Posted: 6 months ago
Dennis The Menace, the captain at the helm strikes again, after a radio outage the cockpit ended up full of water up to his waist. Some fresh paint need on the bow. Need to find out why the speed controller without warning goes mad. Tio Marine 50A ESC and fly sky receiver paring.

Aerokits Patrol Torpedo Boat by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 7 months ago
PS re Monitor! There are separate 'Alarm' devices (i.e. Monitor) on the market for warning you if the Lipo is approaching the critical low voltage; 3.0 - 3.2V. Look on the sites selling batteries, they usually have the Monitors as well. Some can allegedly be coupled to the feedback telemetry to warn you on the TX display, but i ain't tried that yet 😉 LiPo Safe ESCs can also be programmed to slow down or Stop when the voltage is low. This is (to me) about the only reason to buy a programming card for the ESC. Everything else; stick positions for Full Ahead, Full Astern and All Stop you can do with the TX! 😎 PPS: Before Canabus jumps on me about programming cards! 😲 There is one other reason they can be useful: If you have a Car Escape as Canabus recommends! I discovered that they are usually delivered set up to 'Brake on reverse', which means that you have to shove the gas stick backwards twice to engage reverse. Otherwise it just STOPS!! The programming card enables resetting this to 'Boat Mode' so that the motors reverse immediately you pull the stick back. If you use Marine ESCs this isn't a problem as there ain't no Brake!

For Sale - Pilot ll from plans by Vic Smeed by cormorant Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 8 months ago
For Sale. Plank on frame wooden hull scratch built from original plans by Vic Smeed. 86cm L by 28cm B. She is very well made, though I can't claim for construction as I bought her part built. I re-painted, added the drive train and electrics as well as detailing the the deck house and upper deck. Twin brushed fanned 540 electric motors with Mtronics Viper Marine 20amp ESCs. 2.4ghz Tx with four channel receiver. Navigation lights and searchlight. (Need final wiring) I think she looks good on the water. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D6ELvkWcM-4&t=20s Collection only please. £210 ONO.

Too Powerful Brushless ? by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 9 months ago
PS Deans Marine do Raboesch as well 👍😊 http://deansmarine.co.uk/shop/index.php/cPath/35 I recently bought their HMS Manxman kit and it came with cast brass props and excellent shafts & tubes. 😉