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A bit of a miscellany here - the funnel fittings or mounts at the top are 3D printed and the 'rope' is some sort of elastic string used in jewellery making. This... 1) keeps it straight which is difficult with regular string or wire, 2) doesn't get damaged when you catch it with a stray arm, tool, etc. Brass steam fittings turned on my lathe. The forward hatch was built in case extra ballast was needed, but has had a beneficial side effect. No ballast was needed and the hatch is filled with foam, so I can wedge in a mini tripod and mount a camera up front. Only briefly tested but looks promising The windlass is a kit from mobile marine models. Easy to construct and looks the part. Tow hook 3D printed.
The Veron F.P.B does appear to be a very rare model and I feel £300 would be a reasonable price especially when you take into consideration how much a modern day manufacturer would want. Just look at prices for Deans Marine models, mainly their Vosper M.T.B. which is a lot smaller. Also Veron kits seem to have been overlooked and the only model that is easy to obtain is the Slec version of their 26inch River Police Launch. Phil Smith was a great designer of boats and aircraft . I sold my Veron RTTL in the mid 1990s and my fleet today consists of one original Sea Commander, one 34 inch Crash Tender , both of which I restored, an Italeri PT109 and two RTR fast electrics. TOP TIP for anyone who buys your F.T.B- trace around the parts and use them to build the model while keeping the kit intact. I do this with my Keil Kraft control line aeroplanes. B😁😎oaty
I use Satin enamels as they are more durable than Matt finishes, especially on the hulls, but still go over them with clear matt enamel for realism. The 'scale' appearance is the consideration. From a distance a real boat even if finished with a gloss marine enamel would not look glossy. A WW2 boat such as an MTB would definitely have a Matt finish, and always 2 coats. Working models get scuffed in use.
Thanks Doug I hope that your not getting too stressed by my motor restoration, I'm looking at buying another supermarine, boxed unused, box looks awful but motor is still all shiny. If I can get the price down to my level it will be for the vintage history display. What esc would you recommend for the one you are restoring. Not getting much done at present as I am trying to sort out building work on new wetroom before I go for my operation. So I will be back on the models after my knee surgery is done. Checked the launch this morning using my satnav strapped to the cabin roof. After a 300 meter run at full speed it read 7.01mph. So that really was pleasing to see. Got to go sparky just arrived. Cheers Colin.
I had this situation on an old Aerokits Crash Tender that I restored. Though there was no motor with it and the hull was in a very poor state I noticed the stern tube was plain steel with no evidence of bearings though the prop shaft was a good fit. I got round this by lubricating the shaft with Marine Grease (Dynamite Marine) which is a blue grease that I use on my fast electrics. This can be purchased from Wheelspin Models. You can also purchase a grease gun from them which is very useful as you can fill the whole stern tube . On my fast electrics the flexi drive to the prop is in a nylon sleeve that is flexible but does not have bearings installed. As the brushless motor exceeds 22,000 rpm I can confirm that the grease does a good job as I have not had a failure with it. Boaty😁👍
sidley70, you can use anything you like really. Subtle, rather than flash for a boat like a Sea Queen. We didn't have much flash in those days! Except for front wing ornaments for Mk 2 Consuls If you look at any period advertising it will probably have the original fittings shown on any pictures. Whilst Mersey Marine (THE period fittings company) are sadly no more, there are basic fittings available from Cornwall Models, etc. I also saw quite a few on ebay, but do yourself a favour and have a look on the Modelling Timbers website....http://www.modellingtimbers.co.uk/1.html The guy who runs it is an absolute gentleman and you will not find better quality or lower prices anywhere. Despite coming from the Isle of man his return postage is excellent. He is very friendly on the phone too. If he doesn't have it, you can also get excellent quality, service and prices from RBModels in Poland. I have bought very good model railway stuff from them, but I noticed that they also do model boat stuff. Being a tight wad I tend to make all mine that I can't get from Modelling timbers. Cheers, Martin
[Score: 10/10] 39"/2700g Brooklyn Capable of 5mph and a runtime of 120mins Single Propellor (3 Blade 80mm) Geared to a 12 Volt Dumas Motor (3 Blade) Powered by Lead Acid (12v) 8Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through Mtroniks Viper Marine 15 Amp (5Amps) ESC - Comments: She has a 6 volt Dumas Motor and a 15 amp Mtroniks viper marine ESC! Also has a 6 volt Harbor Models Smoker. and a RAM80 Steam Whistle! Also a RAM48 Steam Engine Sound Unit! Tug Brooklyn Completed on Oct' 25, 2018! She took 10 months to complete!
I am a returner to boat building after 45 years and have always used marine ply for the construction of all parts of my models. I am currently building the 46" crash tender ( I have a current Build Blog) and whilst browsing this site I see many people using plasticard for their construction, can anybody list the pro's and cons of this material eg 1 cost 2 ease of cutting plasti V ply eg circular saw, filing, knife cutting, bending/forming 3 gluing issues 4 paint preparation 5 gluing to other materials 6 overall which do people prefer
Getting fed up with struggling to the pond with my 54" fast attack craft, I visited Dean's Marine last Saturday with a view to getting a smaller warship kit, to make life easier. I had a conducted tour of the showroom by Ron and had almost decided on HMS Daring, at a mere 36" long, when he said that there were more kits in the shop, which I might like to see. And what did I come away with? - yes, 54" of the 1/200 scale HMS Hood. http://www.hmshood.com/hoodtoday/models/trumpeter/trumpeter2... I blame my mate, Octman (aka Chris), for allowing such an act of folly! I hope I have not bored you with my tale of woe, but for those who are still with me, my question relates to the fine detailing kits available. Some of them cost almost as much as the original kit, but my main objective is to have a wooden deck. Does anyone know where I can purchase a good quality deck on its own? I am also looking for 1/200 figures for the crew. Thank you Steve
This is a build of the LadyT from Mobile Marine Models, I am quite a way into the build now and have not taken photo's of every part of the build and I may get things a bit out of sequence, but I will do my best. The hull and a set of templates was given to me, I have found out that the templates in most cases are for guidence only. The hull is not one of the best mouldings I have had but with a bit of effort was knocked into shape. In order that the rudder could be removed from the boat for repair I glued a piece of 3mm brass strip to the hull with Araldit and P38 filler, another piece of brass with a hole to take the rudder was laid on top and two 3.3mm holes drilled through both pieces, the brass on the hull was tapped 4mm and the piece with the hole for the rudder was drilled 4mm clear and countersunck. By undoing the tiller arm and removing the two 4mm countersunk screws the rudder can be removed for repair. The rudder was made with thin ply and P38 using the drawing to make a template of the shape.
[Score: 8/10] 35"/2700g ILLINI LOYAL Capable of 12mph and a runtime of 60mins Twin Propellors (5 Blade 50mm) Direct Drive to a 775 JOHNSON TYPE (5 Blade) Powered by NiMH (8.4v) 3Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through DIMART 320A FAN-COOLED (15Amps) ESC - Comments: ANOTHER ON THE WAYS: SALVAGED DUMAS ABS HYDRODYNE HULL, 35 X 10 X 2" ORIGINALLY IN THE AMERICAN BEAUTY KIT. MY INTENT IS TO SCRATCH BUILD FROM THIS HULL, A SINGLE-DECK TWIN SCREW LINEHAUL TOWBOAT WITH A FUNCTIONING TELESCOPING PILOTHOUSE. THEY ARE COMMON ON THE UPPER ILLINOIS RIVER WHERE THERE ARE FIXED OVERPASSES OR LOW OBSTRUCTIONS SPANNING THE WATERWAY. THE DES PLAINES AND CALUMET RIVERS IN THE CHICAGO AREA ALSO HARBOR THESE PUSHBOATS. THE PLAN IS TO KEEP HER LIGHT WITH A LOW CG, BUT POWERFUL ENOUGH TO PUSH SOME SCALE WEIGHT; I RECKON 775 MOTORS WITH 50MM 5-BLADE WHEELS WILL SUFFICE. THIS BOAT WILL BE STEERED WITH STANDARD RUDDERS, NO FLANKING RUDDERS, BECAUSE I WANT TO KEEP IT SIMPLE. (K.I.S.S.) I AM STILL BRAINSTORMING THE SYSTEM FOR RAISING/LOWERING THE PILOTHOUSE; POSSIBLY A SERVO WINCH & CABLE OR LINEAR SERVO. A PNEUMATIC RIG IS ALSO A POSSIBILITY I RECKON. SHE WILL BE WEARING THE ORANGE TRIM AND MIDNIGHT BLUE PAINT SCHEME OF MY SHOP-ILLINIWEK MARINE SCALE SHIPYARD. I USE LIGHTHOUSE LED's & MINI SWITCHES FROM THE SEATTLE AREA EXCLUSIVELY, 9V, 3MM. HARBOR MODELS 1.5V WORKING RADAR & MAYBE A 6V WORKING DECK CAPSTAN WILL BE ADDED. SHE IS MY 5TH ADDITION TO THE ILLINIWEK MARINE FLEET, AND WILL OF COURSE PUSH AHEAD THE MATCHING BARGES. GO FIGHTING ILLINI!
Hi Andy I use Dynamite Marine grease both on my fast electric and scale boats. You can purchase this from Wheelspin Models and you can also buy a grease gun from them as well😋. It is brilliant for whatever boat you own and with the gun you can really lubricate the whole propshaft. Boaty
I tried a few different grades of oil and found that if the inside end of the prop tube is close to or below the waterline then some water always seemed to enter the boat, as well as leaving an oil slick in the lake. You also need an oiler tube. Light grade marine grease - whilst offering some friction initially soon eases off on the friction (via a quick run-in), whilst offering a good seal. I have ships, patrol boats and submarines and they all have marine grease. I re-grease the prop tubes/shafts once a year for the frequently used models and others once every few years. I also tried Lithium grease, but it always remains sticky and so does the friction load. In most cases this is great grease except for prop shafts. Choose what ever you are happy with.
Hi Jarvo The prop shaft that you mention is the type I was looking at, Deans Marine was at Mobile MarineModels yesterday, unfortunately they did not have the 18" prop shaft or would have bought. Will look at changing angle though. Thanks