The maritime museum's event, scheduled for October instead of May, was cancelled as a hurricane blew up the coast and pushed water up the bay flooding a lot of coastal bay towns like St Michaels. I couldn't make the next Port Expo in 2016, but I tried to be ready for the maritime museum in October. I started making the forward bulwarks. The real ship had sections that folded down on bronze hinges a few of which still exist as she still had her forward bulwarks when she came to Baltimore. They could also be removed. I mad all the section as a single piece and I don't intend to make them functional, just something to snag and need to be repaired. As mentioned, the original winch drums warped and I made new ones with styrene drums instead of wood. These vanished around the time I moved and haven't been found yet, so I got some sheet plastic to take the place of the CDs and made a new pair. I have to say, I'm not happy with these at all. I did add a small block of Delrin to each winch to brace the drums against the pull of the braces/springs. Constellation's board at her entry port were carved. I took a photo of an original at the ship and traced it in PaintShopPro. Scaled it to the model and printed it. I glued this to some bass wood. I have some mahogany I can slice some thing slabs off of, and I may try using a rotary tool to carve a set for real, but till then, these will do. I tried to make the tops'l yard parrels which are iron hoops lined with wood. There's a pin for the yard's yoke to ride on, and the hoop can be opened and hinged to be removed. I wanted all that in case I need to remove a yard at some point without pulling down the whole rig. I tried it with some sheet brass, and again, I wasn't too hgappy with the result. We'll come back to that. So, I fiddled around with cutting combs to make hatch gratings, and actually managed to get something done, which led to making the main hatch cover. I had cut a bit of plywood as a cover, just to keep dust from going below while I was working - I based my hatch cover on this piece, framed the bottom; installed ledged for it to sit on inside the hatch coaming, and made gratings and fake beams on top. It's a bit simplified buy what the ship actually had, but it gets the point across. A couple of smaller gratings also got installed giving the deck a more finished appearance. I wasn't thrilled at bumping the bottom of a pool again, but the maritime museum is on the Miles River. I needed to be able to launch and retrieve the model at a boat-ramp or shore, so I started designing a launch-cart....
This would be the first time I ever put something on public display. Well, some drawings went up in a high school art show, but this was certainly the first model. The Port Expo had set up a pool on the dock next to the N.S. Savannah. It was windy, with the wind whipping around the ship every which way. The pool wasn't deep enough for the model to sail, so she just sat there tied off to one end, or down in the lee corner. Not a big deal, but I got to talk to a few folks about her, and that was fun. One of the other modelers told me about the model expo at the Chesapeake Bay Maritime Museum in St Michaels Maryland, in just two weeks! Last time I had been to that museum I went on a 170 foot barkentine, this time the boat would be a little smaller. There was no way I was going to get much work done on the model in the time I had, but there was something I wanted to try out. From the start I had a sail-arm servo set-up to handle the fore-and-aft sails, but I hadn't worked out how it would work. The heads'ls over-lapped and each had two sheets. When the model come-about, the heads'ls needed to be hauled over the stays to the other side. When sailing a real boat, like my 16 footer 'Lydia,' it's the same thing. When you start to come about, you cast-off the jib sheet. As the boat comes across the wind, the jib luffs and comes across mostly on it own. The the new sheet is hauled in and made fast. I wanted to emulate that on the model. My solution was two loose arms with the servo arm between them. The servo pushes one or the other of the loose arms to sheet the heads'ls - but not both. Center the servo and both jib-sheets are slack. It's incredibly simple and works on a single servo. I cobbled the system together in time for St Michaels. We also got one of those pop-up tents, and a folding table. I was taking the Pride of Baltimore model, and the Macedonian hull as well. I was getting into this public display thing. The Model Expo was great. There were a boat-load of modeler's and model there. The pool was much larger, but it was still too shallow, and Stella ran aground after sailing only a few feet. Only Constellation went in the water, but all three models got a lot of attention and I spent a lot of time talking to folks about them. The jib-sheeter worked great, though the servo only had 90° of travel and the Dx6 isn't programmable that way. When I got home, I went right to work on another control mechanism I wanted to try - the sliding-winch.
Has any member ever made a model of the Melik, the river boat that took part in the battle of Omdurman. I did contact the national Maritime museum for drawings, now I don't know if I got this wrong, but I got the impression that they want £70 for the first sheet of drawings then £50 for any other sheets required. Sorry I cant afford that kind of money. 😭
[Score: 8/10] 43"/1900g MTB743 Capable of 7mph and a runtime of 35mins Direct Drive to a COMBO 380 (3 Blade) Powered by LiPoly (11.1v) 11Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through ACTION ELECTRONICS (5Amps) ESC - Comments: This is a Failmile 'D' MTB. This version and number were operated by the 65th Canadian MTB flotilla in the English Channel. I made the model as this version as my Uncle was one of the crew. This model hull is built from scratch in the in the same was the real boats were using double diagonal planking. The propulsion is with 4 props paired using a dual ESC by Action Electronics and 2 11.1v LIPO batteries. These MTB were powered with 4 Packard 4M-2500 Engines with a hull speed of 34.5kts. Armament:- 4 x 18" torpedo's, 2 x 6pdr Mkv11 guns, Twin 20mm Oerlikon gun, 2 x twin Vickers Machine guns on powered mounts, as well as other smaller machine guns on the bridge. For more info goto the Manitoba Maritime Museum
Hi, Looks like fun! I would have thought my first port of call would be the National Maritime Museum then I would try the German equivalent. What scale are you thinking of? If you are going for a small model you could draw your own based on the photos of the boat and her sisters. Good luck Edward
Am building this model to replicate HMCC Vigilant. Up until now have found that this vessel and the hull of the standard Damen Stan 4207 production similar, so the Damen drawings have worked well. Moving to the superstructure this is not the case, whilst the two vessels are broadly similar, there are many differences. The photos available on the Internet enable these to be identified, but the pictures kindly sent by Liverpool Maritime Museum proved enormously vaulable. These were so good that dimensions could be scaled off to help replicate details. The Canadian Hero class tends more towards the Damen standard, although have many pictures of this they confirm the drawing details. Started on the superstructure, using styrene as it is light and easy to work. The structure is now virtually complete, built from a combination of styrene sheet, strip and wood strip. Made the bridge and mast structure removable from the lower portion to assist any future repairs and to add interior detail. The mast was a particular challenge as it is quite complex. With the objective of reducing weight and thus heeling moment, made this from styrene tube. This material is easy to work, but an extra wire for the light grounds becomes necessary. Fitted a common ground using a bare wire with the various negative LED terminals soldered to it. The positive feeds are all individual and will need to connect beneath the bridge deck to install the correct LED & resistor combinations. All the wires were passed inside the mast legs. Hope to never replace a LED, that will be a real joy! So far, the weigh of the superstructure (less final wiring, glazing, paint and detail) is 14 oz. This should allow the model to be completed at around the 9lbs total, the target established from the earlier buoyancy tests.
Some years ago I visited the Liverpool Maritime Museum and noticed a model of HM Coastguard cutter 'Vigilant'. This was an attractive static model, but one that seemed to have the potential to be made operable. After some research, determined the vessel was a derivative of the Dutch Damen Stan 4207 patrol boat. There are many pictures of this type of vessel in the liveries of several countries on the net. However, after numerous inquiries searching for plans or drawings, was advised they would not be available as long as this was a current production vessel. Thus decided to shelve the project and continue with building other models concluding with HMS Beagle, my previous blog. This was in the hope that eventually a lead on drawings would arise. Last winter our Club was invited to tour a Canadian Coastguard 'Hero' class vessel which is berthed locally. The tour reawakened my interest in a patrol boat model, particularly as the 'Hero' class is another Damen Stan 4207 derivative. My search for plans was initially unsuccessful, but a Dutch contact made inquiries directly with Damen and they kindly set him a set of sheer lines, sections and GA drawings. These contained enough information to develop a set of model plans.
I have decided to build HMS Illustrious as my next model. Apart from the National Maritime Museum, which seem not to be helpful any more, does anyone know if Norman Ough did drawings of her? He did a model for the United Services Museum, so I would assume he produced a set of drawings. If so, where would they be available?
Hello all, I'm looking into my next build, I've gone for a Tramp Steamer (SS / HMS Clan MacNaughton) I'm managed to get the plans from the Nation Maritime Museum which show the profile and over head view, problem is no Hull lines. Has anyone had any experience in figuring out the hull lines? Specifically around the Bow and Stern? I'm fairly sure I can get the bulk of the hull sorted as looking at the plans it kind of looks like a box in water 😊 If no experience then any thoughts / ideas? I had planned to get the keel and bow / stern cut out then a few mid sections and then just trial and error the bulk head down to the Bow and Stern. If anyone has a better idea I'm more than happy to listen. Best regards Dave
[Score: 10/10] 52"/2000g Sirius Capable of 2mph and a runtime of 90mins Geared to a Wurlitzer Powered by Lead Acid (12v) 10Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through Viper (5Amps) ESC - Comments: Scratch built entirely from wood. Plank on frame hull. Very basic plan from the London Science Museum and photos of a model In the Liverpool Maritime museum. Sirius was first steam powered vessel to cross the Atlantic under steam power for the whole voyage In 1847.
Sirius was the first vessel to cross the Atlantic under steam power for the entire journey In 1847. The model Is scratch built almost entirely from wood with an plank on frame hull. She Is powered by two geared electric motors on paddles. She Is radio controlled by 40 Mhz Radio. The plan was very basic as you can see from photo, but there Is a model In the Liverpool Maritime museum which I was able to photograph and copy. When completed she was purchased from me by the Beale Park, Child of Beale Trust In Reading and Is still on display at that site.
Thanks Peter. I think I am fine now. The Liverpool Maritime Museum have a model of the S. Conqueror and they very kindly sent me pictures of the stern the other day.They answered my questions, but thanks for your offer anyway Rowen
Decided to take a break from the hull construction and make the davits which are quite a complicated affair. There are two types of boats on the Edmund Gardner. Lifeboats and Jolly Boats.Both of which have different davits. I made plastic templates for the various parts and on the last model made of the Pilot Boat I got copies made on a CNC machine In plastic. I don't have access to the CNC now so these templates were used as masters for moulds and the parts were made In hard white metal, (pewter). I suppose I could have made them all separately In plastic but Steve at Scale Hobbies Skelmersdale offered to mould them for me. The photo shows the plastic masters with the number required on each part. For those of you who do not know what she looks like please see attached photo of the real thing In the Canning Dock within the Albert Dock complex at Liverpool part of the Maritime museum collection