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>> Home > Tags > masking tape

masking tape
invictus of allington
dark caulking
king fisher
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masking tape
Lady T by AlanP Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 days ago
The next stage was to fit the prop tubes and motors, MMModels prop tubes and T4 motors were used. Now I will admit that getting the tubes lined up and getting them to come out of the hull nearly horizontal gave me a lot of headaches. The hull had different thicknesses and shapes of fibreglass were the motors had to be fitted, the A frame markings on the hull, especially the inboard ones were way out, all of this plus the fact that the motors had to be fitted more or less on the bottom of the hull. Aligning pieces were made on the lathe to go between the prop shafts and the motors. Motor mounts were made from hardwood and shaped on a belt sander to fit the hull bottom. I think I had about five attempts at this stage using all sorts of pieces of ply with holes in them, wooden wedges and of course masking tape. Motor mounts, I only have one photo of these, holes drilled in hardwood with a hole cutter, then cut in two on the bandsaw to give two halves that can clamp the motor, draught excluder stuck on the inside and the two halves fastened together with two wood screws.

It’s poxy this Epoxy. Hull, here I come by Penfold63 Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 19 days ago
Ok, so I bit the bullet and got seem epoxy for the hull skins. I had some Gorilla glue but it was suggested that epoxy was better. Damn the stuff took ages to apply, and finding ways to clamp one hull skin with the limited stuff I had was testing my patience. I’ll be honest, I spent nearly an hour just finding ways of securing the hull skin to the frame. Used clamps, masking tape, bits of the kit and scraps to get it secured. Then just needed to wait 16 hours for it to set.....If you want to see some really impressive model making go to Harry Potter World. Hog warts Castle in there is immense. So pics show current state of play with one half of the bottom hull done. Next work will be at the weekend or next week, getting the other side on....

Scrumpy 3 (Aerokits Sea Commander) by Penfold63 Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 30 days ago
Hello everyone. I’m a relative novice with 3 projects on the go at the moment. Project 1 is a Riva Aquarama, which stalled at the stringer stage. Project 2 is a smaller Riva Aquarama which stalled at the planking stage. Project 3 and the subject of this build blog is an Aerokits Sea Commander, photos to follow. Kit delivered Tues 9 January and spent about 6 hours on it so far. Using typical PVA glue and trying to avoid any brass pins choosing instead clamps of various shapes and sizes and liberal application of masking tape. It’s a good kit and the pieces have gone together well so far. Stringers were a challenge as always, but 30 minutes of soaking got them to bend to the right shape. Next stage is chamfering the false rebates along the keel, chamfering the stringers and the bottom hull sides for a neat fit. That will Be Monday night and Wednesday evening’s work. I have a Dremel which should make that job easier. I would be keen to hear of any motor/shaft mods anyone recommends. Also, any ideas on final finish colours or schemes, may consider mahogany and lime deck? Thanks

Spraying/hand painting by jarvo Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Hi Colin, Isolator is available in aerosol form, its about £10 from specialist paint suppliers, plus all the filler, paper, stopper, thinners and masking tape. Mark

Clamps and such by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
PS: for soldering I use a small machine vice (Proxxon or similar) or jigs cut into close grained wood blocks with masking tape to hold parts down; e.g. for railings or complex mast and crane jibs etc. Doug 😎

Clamps and such by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi Gramps 😉 So far we're a bit Off Track! 🤔 I'll photo tomorrow a selection of what I use, including a good quality masking tape or similar! As Dave says Neodymium mags are also good for some items but I've never tried 'em for hull planking. I use a variety of types and sizes of wood clamps from traditional G clamp screw types to the spring loaded type (what you call alligator clamps?), even various sizes of Bulldog clips for smaller items. More tomorrow, cheers Doug 😎

replacing propshaft by RichardSReade Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 2 months ago
ChrisF I have now floated the boat in the bath tub and measured the top edge of both the front and rear down to the water, back in the workshop I put some masking tape from the waterline mark from front to rear keeping the tape as straight as possible, it is not a million mile away from the Keel less than 2 degrees difference. so the prop will stay where it is. I have also now rubbed one side of the hull down and masked it to the water line and resprayed the top half white, the lower part of the hull will be resprayed black, the waterline line will be put on this. I will then repeat on the other side. I hope this will be correct.

Plating by hammer Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
Over the weekend I had been thinking maybe it would be easer to epoxy the plates together. Having almost finished the 2 bottom strakes I will continue soldering. Finding it easer with each plate, as I learn, little tricks. Cleaning the plates with a sanding drum (dermal), keep the plate flat on the bench. Otherwise the plate will cruel up and destroy the sand paper. Don't put to much solder on the iron, or I get lumps of solder as it runs down. I am now holding the plates in place with masking tape. That is working well. Two strakes are taking almost half a can, as there are 12 strakes I will cut up 2 more cans.

Impatient but hit away with it! by jarvo Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 months ago
Skydive, please don't rush the coats of paint, yes, remove the masking tape, but, allow the paint to harden possibly 24 hours, before the lacquer, it might react!!! then allow at least 24 hours before you apply the mask for the Red lower hull, otherwise you could end up with either the paint pulling off or getting the tape marking the lacquer as you press it down, make haste slowly. Mark

Fittings and finishing by Novagsi0 Captain   Posted: 4 months ago
Have been making steady progress on the Huntsman. Few additional fitting I acquired and me mom has been busy knitting boat fenders front and for the sides. Amazing she can almost knit one as faster than I can chamfer a cork in the lathe to fill it with. (pictures attached). I'm not sure the masking tape she attached them will cope with the speed and the wet. I guess I need to secure then with some brass cleats or posts. My next Job. Also attached the windscreen not as much trouble as I thought. Radio is in and the Torpedo 850 motor installed.

Richards 48" Swordsman by rmwall107 Lieutenant   Posted: 6 months ago
Hi, another month on and things are still progressing. I have finished planking the deck and have started on the rubbing strake. I am using 3x5mm balsa for the strake and I will be staining it teak. I have bent the strip for the bow and stern, I soaked balsa in hot water for about half an hour. Whilst the strip was soaking i cut strips of masking tape and evanly spaced them around the bow and stern sections ready for the soggy balsa. Then working evenly side to side from the center point, I bent the strip and secured it in place using the pre-installed masking tape. Note work evenly from the center my first effort i worked from the center and concentrated on one side, when i went back to the otherside the strip snapped in the middle (the point of most stress) probably because the wood had Dryed and cooled by the time I went back to it. The strakes are currently relaxing to shape for a few days before I remove the tape.

Precedent Huntsman 34" by canabus Admiral   Posted: 7 months ago
Hi All Repaired one of the broken cabin pieces under the aft side window and added strengthen timber forward and aft(windows). The gap under the windows to the deck, I laid down two layers of masking tape and mixed up some Selley's Plasti-bond. Pushed the cabin onto this and waited for it to harden. Removed cabin, removed the masking tape, sand the areas and spray filler undercoated. A nice clean gap!!! Canabus

Cabin Repair by canabus Admiral   Posted: 7 months ago
Hi All Started on fixing the bits I broke in removing the old paint. The forward window had a gap in the middle to the deck, so I added timber behind the bottom of the window and filled in the gap. Masking tape to the deck and combing, a lump of filler, sit the cabin down and wait for the filler to dry. Remove cabin, masking tape, trim and sand down. As the aft of the cabin sits over the deck a fair bit, I added a plywood piece back to the combing so to strengthen the aft cabin area and replaced the bottom section under one of the windows. Remodelling this boat and building the SG&K 1920 Gentleman's Runabout is keeping me busy!!! This retirement is great, but, I still liked my old job. Canabus

Marking the waterline. by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 7 months ago
Great idea 👍👍👍 I have one in the cupboard that's almost never been used, now it will be, first customer: Sea Scout 'Jessica'. Doug 😎 PS: A word to the wise regarding masking tape! A few years ago I discovered Tamiya tape (from the plastic magic scene!) It comes in various widths is very flexible and so copes with complex curves with ease and gives a superb clean line, without the slight 'stepping effect' that using lots of short pieces to approximate curves does 🤔

The suction hoses – part 1. by robbob Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 8 months ago
Hi Paul. I thought I might try lamp black and a steel scribe but couldn't find a candle to make a dirty flame. Masking tape and pencil worked just as well.😁