Cookies used in this website are gluten free, wheat free and dairy free. By using this website you agree to our use of cookies. More Info
Login Below
Join Us On Social Media!

Get The Model Boats App!
Apple App Store
Android app on Google Play

(Non Contributor)

Help support this free
website and donate.

Donate Now
or enter custom amount

£285 a year is needed to keep the website and apps online. Please consider donating £5 or more to help towards these fees.
All donations are securely managed through PayPal. Amounts donated are not published online.

Many thanks for your kind support.

Model Boats Website Team

Donation History
March 2017: 8 people
February 2017: 12 people
January 2017: 37 people
December 2016: 2 people
November 2016: 2 people
October 2016: 8 people
September 2016: 4 people
August 2016: 5 people
July 2016: 4 people
June 2016: 1 person
May 2016: 1 person
April 2016: 9 people
March 2016: 5 people

Unique Visitors This Month

Website Members

Terms and Conditions
Privacy Policy

Model Boats Website
Active Users (24)
Login or Register
To Remove This Ad

Login or Register
To Remove This Ad
>> Home > Tags > matt finish

matt finish
aerosol finished
matt finish
Fiberglassing by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 8 days ago
Hi chugalone 100 Welcome to the site. You can fibreglass with different types of resin and cloth. If you are making and casting a fibreglass hull use fibreglass matting but to cover a hull lightweight fibreglass cloth is best. This is the type shown in the suggested video. Resin can be epoxy or polyester based but the latter is generally cheaper and in my opinion is easier to use and doesn't require thinning with alcohol. It is sold as layup resin and is supplied with hardener. Do follow the instructions re quantity of each part and mix thoroughly. If you are using epoxy Iso Propyl Alcohol is the type to use and is clear. The video shows using a brush to apply the resin and whilst this is OK it will give a very thick and heavy coating. I use the brush to apply and then a credit card sized piece of plasticard to spread the resin over and into the surface of the cloth resulting in an almost opaque finish with the weave showing through. You do need to have a good surface to work with as any imperfections will show when the resin hardens. Once dry give a light sanding all over to remove any imperfections and fill any holes with car body filler and sand smooth. I then apply a very thin top coat of the resin using a brush. When dry use wet and dry to sand and if necessary apply further thin coats until you have the finish you require. I have a local supplier and if you visit the site k/product.htm all the resins/cloths etc are listed. Using Google should bring up a local supplier. you do need to follow the safety instructions to protect yourself and wear appropriate protection for your hands, eyes and breathing, it is also best to apply in a well ventilated area and not on a cold day. The end result will be well worth the effort to keep your tug waterproof. You could also paint the resin over thye inside of the hull to protect the wood from any water that doeos find its way inside. Dave

Applying the waterline. by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Hi Mark Unless you are looking exactly at the side of the model with your eyes aligned to the level of the line it will look wrong because the spray rail is raised from the hull. If you remember the old type of analogue volt meter, the better ones used to have a mirror on the scale to ensure you were viewing from the correct angle. I suspect now that we have aired the matter many will notice this on model boats. I suppose we are all wishing to achieve the correct finish to our models and yes we are sometimes too exacting. Dave

Spraying the ‘anti fouling’ by robbob Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
I have seen examples of this boat with a bright red gloss finish for the anti-fouling and as nice and shiny as it looks I have decided to be true to the original colour scheme as much as possible. Red oxide primer is a very close colour match to anti fouling paint, apparently, so I found some Simoniz red oxide paint on eBay at a very good price. I’m led to believe that one paint maker (Holts ?) makes the same paint for Halfords, Simoniz and others, it’s an acrylic paint with a matt finish so there should be no compatibility problems. Masking off the hull with a couple of layers of newspaper is quick and easy and it’s ready to go into the spray booth. First coat on and it’s looking good, second coat after 20 minutes or so and I’m really happy with the results and the Simoniz paint is perfectly compatible with the Halfords primer. For good measure I’ll spray a third coat after the first two have hardened overnight, I’ll give the surface a very light key with a fine abrasive pad first. Then it’s on to the rest of the hull with the black gloss.

What Colour? by jarvo Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 months ago
Hi Steve, also a possibility is grey primer, if you want a matt finish Mark

DAMEN STAN 4207 by RHBaker Captain   Posted: 4 months ago
The weather has turned colder and forstalled any temptations to spend valuable boat building time outdoors. Have now been able to focus on finishing the hull. This was done with the usual technique of rubbing down (both mechanical and manual) and then filling any depressions or defects with either wood filler or glaze putty. Then rubbing down again ' and again! After each completed rub sprayed the hull with aerosol paint, initially primer, then working up to colour and finally a clear matte to protect the decals and dull the earlier gloss finish. I prefer to use gloss for the intermediate coats as it reveals the surface defects clearly. The only problem encountered was with the opening stern gate, after much trial usage this began to get a 'chatter' during opeation. Dismantled and examined the micro servo and found that several small gear teeth had broken off. Attributed this to operating the gate by hand during the build. In future will only operate the gate under power. Whilst more time consuming this prevents any tendency for the linkage to go over centre and lock up, thus overloading and breaking the small gear teeth. The pictures show the hull finished up to deck level. There are no fittings installed. From now on anticipate the model completion will follow traditional lines, so will confine blog entries to those that either capture a milestone, or where something interesting or unusal has happened.

Fireboat Paint by jarvo Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 11 months ago
Hi Cliff, I think the red and black of the hull would have been gloss, pride in the ship but also a gloss finish allows the hull less friction through the water, the deck would probably have a matt non-slip finish, to allow the crew to pass mooring lines etc without risk of falling in. Hope this helps Mark

Antifoul lookalike paint by Vickers1979 Lieutenant   Posted: 1 year ago
It will give you a Matt finish but you could yacht varnish over the top in Matt or gloss finish to get that required finish.

Coast Guard Life Boat by HoweGY177 Lieutenant   Posted: 2 years ago
After you have finished planking I use a matt fibreglass cloth. Put It on In very rough squares or odd shapes to suit. Do not worry about overlapping or odd lumps. Sand down higher bits with power sander. I use a WORX tool that has a triangular sanding pad of carbide at this stage. You need not be too fussy. P38 Is a fibreglass filler having a 2 part mix. Used by car repairs. Easy to mix, do not mix too much at a time as It can begin to set In 5 min. Again spread P38 filling any hollow areas. I use a piece of 2x1 wood about 18 Inch. long with sandpaper strips of different grades stuck on each side for sanding the hull along the easy to reach areas and for Inside curves a round or half round file followed by hand sanding. It may take 3-5 applications of filler before an acceptable finish Is achieved. I then use car spray paint red primer to achieve a good finish but the first coat may show up any blemishes that may take more filling. If you have pin size blow holes these are filled with gell coat filler, It Is very difficult to fill such minute holes with P38 as Is Is too course. I you want a devorce do the sanding In the lounge otherwise I suggest you wear a mask and do It Hope this all helps.

Mast Lighting by aanside Apprentice   Posted: 2 years ago
Having searched In vain for clues how to hide the wiring for navigation lights Inside a mast I came up with a simple router jig to do the job (all my previous models were unlit). Basically very simple - hold the mast dowel rigid, rout a groove about 3mm wide and penetrating about 2mm beyond the centre line of the dowel and between the various lamp locations. I left an overhang at the base of the mast to allow for later handling when tapering the dowel and the dowel was left overlong so I didn't need to rout to the masthead. A second run with a 5mm (or so) cutter about 2mm deep gives a ledge to glue pieces of timber to close the slot. Once the timber Is planed down to the dowel It Is a simple matter to process the mast as normal. Wiring can then be fed down the mast and steps for the lights fitted to finish the work off. The photos show the process.

Aerokits 34ins Vosper RAF Crash Tender by Roger777 Seaman   Posted: 2 years ago
SORRY , MODEL HAS BEEN SOLD,, I am offering For Sale from my collection, an original Aerokits Vosper RAF Crash Tender Model Boat, 34ins In length. This model Is made of an all wood construction dating back to the 1960's, It Is In a very good condition, the model has been sprayed In Flair Paint Products, black and red gloss on the hull, and Flair Matt finish on the decking and cabin roof. The Model comes complete with a list of new fittings an Electronize FR30HX speed controller, Graupner speed 700BB turbo water cooled motor, Action Electronics P44A Universal twin switcher for water pump, 12 volt water pump for water cannons, and a Futaba S3001 rudder servo. The Model has an oil lubricator cup In the prop shaft and comes complete with Its own wooden stand. There Is a little work still to do to finish this model off, fenders and rescue nets one side to fit, mast to be completed, laser cut window set Is finished off, but one side still requires to be Installed. The water cannons are operational they just need piping up to the water pump. This RAF Crash Tender has never been sailed, I started to restore the model 2 years ago but sadly due to my work commitments I have not had time to finish this project. As I previously mentioned this Crash Tender Is the small one 34", If you are a classic 1960's enthusiast this may be the one for you. Price £225.00 (Please note :- there are no batteries, Radio Transmitter, or Receiver with this Model) Genuine reason for sale, Its time to down size on my collection. Would prefer to be collected rather than posted please. We are located just off junction 28 of the M1 signposted Mansfield. Any further enquiries please e-mail me or phone 07860 775273

ahc waterson B444 by skiboo Lieutenant   Posted: 2 years ago
alan painted hull 2coats yellow undercoat rubbed down between coats then 4coats light oak stain flatting down with 400 wet and dry between each coat after give 6 coats varnish flatten down between each coat that Is It use poly eurotheyne high gloss varnish stain Is matt finish skiboo

Edmund Gardner Liverpool Pilot Boat by 4clubs Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 years ago
It Is shiny, although shiny when painted with matt paint, the finished effect Is just like tarpaulin on the real thing.The good qulity stuff when you tear It It has a woven thread In It and Its just called duct tape from any DIY, Screwfix or Tool Station store about 2 Inches wide.

Edmund Gardner Liverpool Pilot Boat by 4clubs Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 years ago
Thanks for your comments Roger, glad you like It. I will keep the post updated as I progress the model. I need to get the hull In the water real soon to check ballast and stability, also steering and propulsion. I like to get these matters sorted at this stage and not when the boat Is finished.

Main deck supports by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 years ago
Hull looking good. The stringers have certainly helped keep everything ship shape. Your chosen paint colours should work well together. Have you any pics of an original to give you a clue as to actual colours? If not then just use colours that appear correct and suit your preference. Working boats usually were not pristine In their paint finishes so you may want to avoid using high gloss In favour of a more satin or matt finish. I usually finish my models with a satin clear cote that flattens all the colours and provides protection against the odd knock and sticky finger marks. 😀

Spraying hulls by cenbeth Captain   Posted: 3 years ago
Hi One tip I learnt when painting two colours Is to spray the first colour until It's right, let dry then apply the masking tape. The spray the first colour again so any bleeding doesn't matter. You can then finish the spraying with the second colour. I am sure there are other ways so I will be Interested In future response. All the best Edward