PS: Trouble with so called 'Smart' phones is that they sometimes outsmart themselves and us!😲 if you had 'Auto rotation' ON then the pics will ALWAYS look right on the phone, no matter which way up you happen to be holding it! 😁 Whether from my Samsung phone or my Sony digital cam I always upload to my PC, check the orientation (correct if necessary using Irfan View) and then upload to the site. But then I don't like the mobile App anyway 😡
Sorry I can't find the one I bought from Model Fixings but here is an equivalent tech data Bearing details bore 5mm OD 10mm Width 4mm 2 shields MB-032 Max rpm Metal Shielded Deep Groove Ball Bearings: One of the most commonly used bearings, these types are manufactured with metal shields inserted into the outer raceway, these fit in closely to the inner race providing protection against light mechanical damage, some protection against the ingress of moisture, dust and other foreign matter and serve to retain the pre-filled grease in the bearing. Shields can be easily removed for applications that only require 1 shield Benefits: Provides light mechanical protection, limits moisture and dirt ingress, lubricated for life, Branded MR1052Z Metal Shielded Deep Groove Ball Bearing 5x10x4mm £2.80 ex VAT Dynamic load C =0.4116 kN Static load Co=0.1568 kN Max speed=60000 rpm
REWELL Kit 1:72, fitted with 3 MIG 280 DC motors, 3 DC controllers up to 20A, 1 LiPol battery 2200mA, 4 channel Turnigy receiver, one microswitch for two rudders. It is dyed with REWELL semi-matt colors in synthetic colors and at the end over decals and the whole ship three layers of glossy REWELL lacquer. The ship was imported with lead by the keel so that it did not curve on the opposite side in turns. Because I did not reach the four-bladed bolts, I modified three-blade brass. For the time being, the boat has only been tested in a bath at home due to winter weather in the Czech Republic. For its 64 cm it is designed for riding on a calm surface. If I can evaluate this kit it is excellent. I can only recommend.
[Score: 8/10] 25" HERMANN MARWEDE Capable of 8mph and a runtime of 60mins Triple Propellors (3 Blade 20mm) Direct Drive to a MIG 280 (3 Blade) Powered by LiPoly (7.4v) 2Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through mini dc 20A - Czech rep (20Amps) ESC - Comments: REWELL Kit 1:72, fitted with 3 MIG 280 DC motors, 3 DC controllers up to 20A, 1 LiPol battery 2200mA, 4 channel Turnigy receiver, one microswitch for two rudders. It is dyed with REWELL semi-matt colors in synthetic colors and at the end over decals and the whole ship three layers of glossy REWELL lacquer. The ship was imported with lead by the keel so that it did not curve on the opposite side in turns. Because I did not reach the four-bladed bolts, I modified three-blade brass. For the time being, the boat has only been tested in a bath at home due to winter weather in the Czech Republic. For its 64 cm it is designed for riding on a calm surface. If I can evaluate this kit it is excellent. I can only recommend.
The Upol Barcote product recommended is intended for Industrial use mainly in car restoration. The spec sheet can be seen at http://www.u-pol.com/files/6689/up0720-SDS-EN. If you are intending to use this Full PPE equipment should be worn and only use in a well ventilated area. Personally I use paintstrippers, scapers and a hot air paint stripper to clean wooden hulls back to bare wood. This allows me to see any damage caused by fuels used with IC engines. I agree its messy, takes time and is best done outside, but you do end up with a solid hull with no hidden soft spots. I agree with Jarvo's use of Clear Cote either in gloss or semi matt finish. If the air temp is much below 20 deg most rattle cans will not give a good finish and runs will be difficult to avoid.
Perhaps you have answered the question your self, wet and dry and after a couple of coats you should find it smooth and without blemish. This is the time to ensure there is no dust around. A good idea is to try and make a shelter around the boat and wet it before giving it the final cost of a good quality gloss paint. It really is just a matter of perseverance and you should have a great finish. Good luck! Peter581
Laser cut kit from Barracuda RC Boats, N Carolina, USA. Baltic birch plywood false keel, ribs/frames, hull sheathing, deck and cabins. No formal plans; I was able to source a handful of B&W archival photos from the USCG website. Fortunately I was able to procure a motherload of archival photos and a few hard to read layout drawings from Mr. Timothy Dring, LCDR, USN (Ret.). He is co-author of "American Coastal Rescue Craft", which is the "bible" if you will, of such. I do sometimes thank the internet. I am certain that without his assistance, my efforts on this wouldn't have been as enjoyable. The kit was also void of fittings, which I was aware of prior to purchase, so I invested in a 3D printer. That I've used to a limited degree, due to searching for parts in the correct file format is mind-numbing! I have globally sourced fittings; USA, UK, ASIA. As a matter of fact, the searchlights I got from this Model Boat Shop were 3D printed, and I was able to fit 5mm LEDs into them. I'd like to get a couple more and put some superbright 12v LED drone lamps in them for use on my 35" towboat. Many deck fittings are handmade when possible, the cleats and fairleads are from Cornwall Boats, UK. (Very reasonable & diverse source, if you didn't already know.) I try to keep wood natural when detail allows it, as I never have enjoyed painting over natural grain. Her decks are covered with 1/16" scribed basswood sheathing from earthandtree.com, which is normally used for wainscoting dollhouse walls. All my boats that have wood decks are covered with scribed sheathing; I feel it makes 'em look "sexy". Believe it or not, the idea for wainscoting came from finding 3/16" at Hobby Lobby's dollhouse department. A couple of feet x 3.5" was about $16, so I found a less expensive source that also had more selections (earthandtree.com) The rail stanchions are 3/16" square dowels with 2 corners rounded over on the Dremel router table. Leaving their base square, I fit a square peg into a round hole with no glue to facilitate removal, and also for ease of replacing broken ones, which is inevitable. The rail is 1/16" brass rod that also is readily removable. The stern rail is stationary on the lower half, and the chain & wire stanchions are removable for towing ops. The deck coamings and knuckle are African mahogany strips, other mahogany accents came from leftovers of a prior build. I also try on all my boats, to incorporate vintage leftover scribed sheathing salvaged from my late Father's builds, so I know he's got a part in my builds. Note-the raised deck section between the aft ladder trunk and towing bit is actually a laminated deckhouse he made for the Frigate Essex. Unfortunately, he was unable to build that kit due to Alzheimer's disease in his latter years. (I blame that mostly on the hazardous fumes from the airplane "dope" & glue he used when building RC planes in the 60s & 70s.) I use polyurethane instead of resin due to COPD, 37 yrs of smoking, I quit 2.5 yrs ago. The driveline consists of: 775 Johnson DC main (3500 RPM@12V), Harbor Models 4mm x 14" shaft w/brass stuffing box, Raboesch 75mm 5-blade brass wheel (not OEM), 5mm U-joint couplers, Dimart 320A fan-cooled ESC. Handmade wooden teardrop rudder on a 3/8" sternpost, 1/4" tiller arm steered by a Halcion sail winch servo and cable system. Flysky 6 channel. The nav lights and other illumination are Lighthouse 9v LEDs, also a GoolRC Receiver controlled flashing blue Law Enforcement light. Obviously, I put the cart before the horse and completed the topsides and below deck before finishing the outer hull, but the Wx and season change dictated such. Can't wait for Spring!
This rotation question seems to pop up regularly. Probably for a model, rotation direction doesn't really matter, but one authoritative answer can be found here: http://modeltugforum.com/index.php?topic=5947.0, which quotes from the Ship Handler's Guide. To summarise the comments: Outward-turning propellers means the blades of the propellers are outward turning in the upper half of their circle of rotation, and, when viewed from astern, the propeller with the right-hand blades is on the starboard (right) side and again, when viewed from astern to drive the boat forward, it must rotate in a clockwise direction. This is the preferred arrangement on full-size ships because when using the props to assist a turn, i.e one prop pushing ahead and one pushing astern, the side thrust from the two propellers assists the turn. The attached image from www.slideshare.net may help. Roy
Colin - it's a difficult one as obviously it's a completely different matter working on a build compared with a completed boat i.e. you don't have anywhere to grip/attach to a completed hull etc. I was looking at a building board/jig for my builds (over a smaller range compared with your builds i.e. 23" to 33") but decided in the end that it was better to just use a good thick MDF board and temporarily fix the keel and a temporary spine along the top of the frames to it. But it sounds like you have already found what suits your needs but it needs making out of some stronger material? What about making it out of thick aluminium or even getting it cut out by an engineering company? Would be worth the cost if you are going to get a lot of use out of it? Chris
Andy The original model was produced in the early 1960s when IC engines were the norm and scale and RC for sailing models were in their early development stages. Supplies were limited and we made do with whatever was available. The plans were typically sheet on frame, probably plywood from an old tea chest and cascamite resin glue ( it was water proof and slow setting). The designer would suggest suitable wood to use but many chose to use what they could acquire and as a result the finished models often finished up heavy or very heavy. Coupled with the large IC engine and flywheel and large heavy RC escarpments and big drycell batteries, it is not surprising that the hulls sat well in the water. To the modellers of the period the waterline really didn't matter as we were after speed, control and endurance. This may explain why the early plans did not show a waterline, as in my experience the draught varied greatly between models. Today we have scale plans and supplies that allow us to build true replicas and all the important detail is a must for a true scale model. Personally as an ex flyer I try and build lite, bricks tend to fall or sink, and my Sea Queen rides high in the water with a slight bow up. A 42xx brushless and LiPo add little weight and I have two 8oz lumps of lead in the stern section to achieve this. If it looks right, sails well and you are happy, then enjoy your model.
Another coat of paint for the cowl vents ,my wife thinks they look like Kenny from South park ,some paint on the hull only black and white photos only detail of colour is that the funnels are yellow ,hull is matt black below water level and decided on a really dark matt green for above water line pictures don't really show the colour well ,maybe once white water line is added will show up better or should maybe take pictures in natural light