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>> Home > Tags > matt

matt
matt
Cooling coil by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 15 hours ago
Don't suppose it will matter much Steve, since the cooling comes from the wet stuff and not air flow. And as you say it makes the assembly more stable. Cheers, Doug 😎

Vanishing by canabus Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 days ago
Hi All Hot weather, so two coats of sealer and two coats of matt vanish. Deck finished and onto the wheelhouse. Canabus

Deck Planking by canabus Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 6 days ago
Hi All Finished the deck, so a few coats of wood sealer and matt vanish in the next week. Canabus

KD Perkasa 1/24 by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 7 days ago
Oh yes there is!😉 Just click on the Adobe Icon, when the large version appears click on [Download] in the top left corner. Windows will ask you if you want to Open or Save the file. (Doesn't seem to matter how many times I explain this it is still FAQ Number 1!) Cheers, Doug 😎

HMS BRAVE BORDERER by RHBaker Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 13 days ago
Back to the build. Next milestone, to complete the superstructure and engine covers. The superstructure is essentially a cowl that supports the open bridge and serves as the air intake for the gas turbines. The engine covers fit into the rear of it. The superstructure is full of curves and will be interesting to make. Still trying to save weight, decided to make it out of glassfibre. Rather than first make a plug then a female mould and finally the cowl, wanted to try the technique of making a plug out of styrene foam sheet, then covering it in a glass fibre matt. Once the glass fibre is set, the foam is dissolved out using a solvent and the cowl remains – Inshallah! To ensure the foam did not react to the glass fibre resin, painted the finished cowl with enamel paint before sticking the matt down. See pictures. What a mess! The resin had crept under the paint and into the foam dissolving it. When the resin dried the plug had shrunk slightly and had the surface finish of a quarry. First thought was to hurl it and start again, this time in wood. On second thoughts, wondered if the plug could still be used. Decided to build it up with wood filler and from it make a female mould, as originally intended. The cowl would then be made from the mould. Built the damaged plug up and sanded it smooth. As the plug would be covered in fibreglass, the surface finish was not critical. Brushed a coat of fibreglass on the plug and, after drying filled any defects with glaze putty and sanded smooth. Once the finish and dimensions were satisfactory, applied a thicker coat of glass fibre to the plug. This was again smoothed down, waxed with carnauba polish and then covered in mould release. From it the cowl was made. Picture shows plug, mould and cowl placed side by each. The cowl requires reinforcement; the fittings and various mountings then adding before installing. A trial installation showed that it fitted properly the deck and was accurate. A lesson for the next time is to make the plug and mould much deeper than the finished item. That will allow any rough edges, on either the mould or the component, to be trimmed off leaving a smooth fibreglass edge.

HMS BRAVE BORDERER by jbkiwi Commander   Posted: 25 days ago
Don't know what happened to my last post but I'll try again. This link, https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?1148637-wire-... may be a useful read and explain what I am on about (rough idea in pic). I don't think too many people are aware of some of the problems which can be caused by altering Batt to ESC wiring. I don't think its too much of a problem at lower voltages but see what you think. Not sure if you have a throttle curve facility on your new TX but if it has, using that you can create a gentle start, ramping up steadily, no matter how fast you push the stick up. You can ram the stick up but it will only follow the curve you set. eg pic showing random curve (you can make this any shape you want to control any function) there are usually a number of curves you can set and save for throttle, rudder - anything you want to control automatically. Not sure about your TX but my 9xr even has a feature whereby you can slow the servo action down (I use that on my Piper Super Cub flaps which come down slowly in 2 stages (2 pos switch) and go up faster. Your new TX probably has a lot of these features and once you find how to use them it will open up a whole new world of fun. Another example of what you can do with these computer radios is, on one of my models I am using 'flapperons' to slow it for landing and as the ailerons come down the elevator is mixed to move up to compensate to stop the plane nosing down. It's pretty much endless what you can do. I'm still exploring after 8 yrs of computer radio use. I remember a guy somewhere talking about the flashing lights on his plane and saying it wasn't the lights on a flasher unit it was the TX telling them to flash.

All hooked up, nowt happens... by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 30 days ago
Hi Doug, as you can probably guess, I have as much chance of programming an ESC as flying with my own wings to Munich! The ESC didn't come with any instructions. I didn't know they needed them! More to the point, how the Hell can a motor beep? Where's the beeping kit in a motor with one moving part? So, now what. It's a Flysky pistol grip 3 channel (third is a switch) set of Tx and pre bound Rx. The ESC ? Gawd knows, a flat thing inside a big yellow heat shrink casing. I got it from China recently. All I can do is take a picture of it with my nice new camera tomorrow. Does it matter which way round those three wires go on the motor? I'll post pictures tomorrow. Thanks, Martin

BRAVE BORDERER - BRUSHLESS SUMMARY by jbkiwi Commander   Posted: 1 month ago
The only thing you might have to watch out for is back feed from the pump out the aux tube (when moving) if you don't set up the y joints (must be y not T ) to create a venturi effect from the pump side. Doesn't matter standing still but at speed a T junction might reduce the flow as the flows will be fighting each other slightly. The beauty of the twin system is that if you are running a lot at high speed you could turn the pump off to save power. The best place to position water intakes is I have found is directly behind the prop (I usually just squash the brass tube slightly, fair it, cut it off at 45 deg and set it to just sit in the prop wash). At lower speeds especially, the prop will help to push water into the tubes rather than just relying on speed alone. Never had a problem with pickups interfering with rudder effectiveness as long as you fair the pickups nicely

Update 2 by canabus Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Hi All Installed the rudder with oiler, also installed the 60 turn motor with metal joint from banggood. Installed the 4.5KG servo with linkage to the rudder. First coat of Matt 37 which showed up a few spots that require a bit of filling. Canabus

Update by canabus Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Hi All Finished the dingy, hatch, skylights and companion way. Added some paint, matt 131 green for the hull, under water the hull is matt37. Yellow for the trim bits with matt vanish for the wood work. Canabus

Landing Ship Tanks (WW2) by Nerys Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 2 months ago
Thanks very much Doug for that wealth of information which I hadn't found. I never knew there was so much information available and am extremely grateful to you for bringing it to my attention. I will also pass it on to my sister who has all his personal records, published writings, drawings and cartoons etc. As a matter of interest, there is a drawing of LST 368 on a beach somewhere, by my father, in the D Day museum in Southsea. An LST is on my list of future builds, but at the moment I have a Dutch coaster, a Thames barge and the restoration of a pond yacht on the stocks. I feel I owe it to my father to build an LST, but equally should I also build one of his previous commands?, a tramp Ship, S.S. Ashbury or the last ship on which he served?, the training ship Arethusa, perhaps in her original guise as the four masted barque 'Peking' Fair winds, Nerys.

Spraying Again....... by NPJ Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Just to feel comfortable I am going to go with a matt sealer of some sought............ NPJ

Spraying Again....... by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Agreed Boaty 👍 With a plastic or glass fibre hull it's a slightly different kettle of fish. However I'm still wary of the primer absorbing moisture.🤔 Sealing with a matt or silk lacquer seems to give an extra knot or so as well😉 But here we were discussing wooden hulls. Cheers, Doug 😎

Spraying Again....... by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Mornin' Peter, Red primer can be a good match for some anti-fouling paints. If you are happy with the colour - fine. BUT!! Seal the primer paint with several thin coats of matt or silk clear varnish for the reasons mentioned to Neville above! Primer is porous!! Flatten the primer with 1000 / 1500 wet n dry until your fingertips tell you the surface is good. Apply the varnish in several thin coats, flattening lightly with 2000 / 3000 w&d between coats, until you have a good sealed surface. The varnish (or lacquer) will also give some extra protection against knocks and bangs 😊 Cheers, Doug 😎

Painting by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Except on Rivas and the like Martin😉 (and restored Sea Scouts of course😁) Both my pics were taken from Huntsman 31 For Sale ads. Rather like the curved planking, but would be a devil to do! Planks would have to be pretty thick to stop 'em warping while trying to curve 'em 😲 Way to go Steve 👍 Joggle jiggle, what's it matter so long your mojo works 😁😁