Dear Doug, I repeat once again. I never said to search on Ebay....I know the chap who sells the aerokits plans, as I have purchased many of them in the past. If Garth had contacted me I would have given him a direct link as I have 'Belcrank 1' in my saved sellers! Hope this clears the matter.
I want to cut the battery lead to my receiver in order to incorporate an on/of switch. Can I just join up the two new peices of wire with insulating tape. Will it matter if the two wires are slightly different thicknesses. I would use some sort of insulting tape to complete. Or would what I am contemplating doing, give me some big headaches at some point.
ProBoat Westward V2 18-inch RTR Sailboat with 2.4GHz Radio System Never let ideal conditions pass you by again with the Pro Boat® Westward™ sailboat. This compact sailboat makes it easy to hit the water whenever the opportunity presents itself. All you need to do to get water ready is attach the keel to the hull; that's it. Long gone are the days of having to assemble and rig before you can hit the waves. The Westward sailboat features a reliable 2.4GHz radio system you can enjoy sailing fun even from afar. No matter what your skill level is, the Westward™ is an excellent portable performer to have by your side when you want to ride the wind and waves with as little hassle as possible. Features Small-scale size allows for easy transportation Mini-sail winch servo provides precision sail manipulation Minimal setup time Curable ABS hull Included 2.4GHz radio system Specifications: Hull Material - Injection Mould Trim Scheme Colours - Blue/White Hull Type - Sailboat Scale - 18 inch Drive System - Sail Length - 18.125" (460mm) Beam - 4.375" (111mm) Mast Height - 22.75" (578mm) Radio - 2.4GHz Stick Transmitter, 2-Channel V3 Sail Area (Main) - 66" (1676mm) Sail Area (Jib) - 45.75" (1162mm) Sail Area (Overall) - 111.73" (2838mm) Assembly Time - 1-3 Hours In the Box ProBoat Westward V2 18-inch RTR Sailboat 2.4GHz Stick Radio System
There should be a process for claiming damages and you will need to contact the Legal Department for the NHS. Where I am there is one at the nearest large hospital some 4 miles away. If you are a member of a trade union, they usually have a legal department who can advise you on matters like these. Failing this you can get info off the Citizens Advice. There are many paths available to making a claim, one of these being the ADR, (Alternative Disputes Resolution). This is where there is mediation takes place and in certain circumstances an Ombudsman will become involved. This method tends to be used more as an alternative to the Small Claims Court and to what I understand it is used quite often now and in the event of you taking your claim to the court the judge may ask you if you have taken the ADR route prior to getting a writ issued. If you were to use your home insurance policy it is advisable to check with your insurance company first in case it has detrimental effect on your future premium. On the other hand you may find that the NHS would offer you compensation on submission of your claim as they would not want to continue with a lengthy and costly legal case. Boaty😁
Hi Both, I just bought some transfer paper for inkjets via Amazon. Actually came from a UK supplier, couldn't find any in Germany ?🤔 20 A4 sheets for € 15.68. Good instructions how to stop them smearing, keep your fingers off until they are really really dry and set, and how to transfer and seal them. Gloss or matt varnish, or there are also proprietary transfer 'Fixers'. haven't tried 'em yet cos the sea Scout hull ain't that far yet! Will report in the Sea Scout BR blog. Cheers Doug 😎
Hi Dave, you won't find a Conrad anything anywhere else but on the Conrad (or Amazon/Ebay) sites! But if you look for the Turnigy HT-6 you will find it on HobbyKing, it's the same damn thing for nearly half the Conrad price. See pics. Pure badge 'engineering'! Also just bought some Absima LiPos 2s 4000mAh from Conrad, €40 each. Today I found out that Absima is in Nürnberg (Nuremberg) just up the road from here, same batt €25 😡😭 Conrad will shortly be getting an appropriate mail from me! NO more Reely stuff for me!! I found the HT-6 very easy to set up, amazing what they pack into a $45 set these days. My Spektrum cost 12 times that a few years ago and doesn't do an awful lot more and is more complex to set up 🤔 Won't mess with mixer boards or two stick motor control just yet. Can use the mixer functions in the TX 😊 Have tested the HT-6 with various ESCs; e.g. Graupner Navy VR30 and Mtroniks Viper Micro10, no problems. When the new 2s LiPos are charged the next test will be with a Turnigy brushless ESCs and the BL I want to put in the Sea Scout. Progress is slow but sure. Why do I get on faster with electronics than with shipbuilding!!?? 😉 You're right; Mode 1 or 2 (3 and 4 are also available!) don't matter much. With this set you can assign any control element stick, switch, or pot to any channel (i.e. RX output) you want, and very simply - not like the Spektrum🤔. Like it.👍 I also like having the two pots available for proportional control; gun turrets, cranes, monitors .... 👍 And still switches left over for lights, sound .... Very versatile 👍👍 Only irritation is it won't go into operational mode until all switches are forward and the throttle (left stick) is pulled right back - motor off for an aircraft - safety feature. Minor irritation for a boater but pull the stick back and all is OK and you can then operate normally. Used the spring removal method on my old Graupner 40Meg MC-10. That box was a pain to set up as well🤔 I could programme the radio ATE for the old Home Office Type Approval lab faster, but then - I wrote the software 😉 Cheers Doug 😎
Hi Doug Enjoying your new toy. Not sure that Mode 2 or 1 for that matter has much relevance if you are using two sticks to control your ESCs. The gimbal posted by Canabus looks like the Taranis stick with an additional rotary control at the tip. Most gimbals use a spring to effect self centering and removing said spring disables this feature. One of the reasons I use the Taranis is to allow me to mix at the tx avoiding lots of complicated wiring and expensive mixer boards on the vessel. I did find the Conrad Reely HT-6 but not on the Hobbyking site. Can you post a pic please? Dave
Hi Norm, All the weapons, boats and other 'hangers-on decks' are Humbrol colour Matt Sea Grey # 27, Revel approximate Matt Mouse Grey (Mausgrau) # 47. Don't know what paint type you use but I have several conversion charts so let me know and I'll see if I can find an equivalent. Flight deck is Matt U.S. Light (!) Green # 117, which is actually not so light, more of a Sea Grey-green. Arrester wires: On the Ark there are 8 ! According to my plan- #1 33.5m from the edge of the roll down, #2 6.6m from #1 #3 6.6m from #2 #4 7.33m from #3 #5 7.33m from #4 #6 6.95m from #5 #7 5.64 from #6 #8 5.26 from #7 No guarantee for accuracy!! Or even if 'Lusty' was the same but it's an indication. 😉 Your build is looking good 👍 I'm wondering if you are taking all this trouble why don't you go the 'whole hog' and bring her to life😉 Finish the hull and give her some motors 😊 No, I'm not in UK, I'm in Munich where I've been for the last 32 years, Tempus fugit😲, hence my forum name 😉 Cheers Doug 😎
Hi Doug Resin is heavy and applying by coating the inside of a boat will if the wood is porous absorb lots and greatly increase the weight. The thinner it is the more it will be absorbed. Layup resin is of a similar consistency to liquid brushing paint (not the gel type). It goes more pourable as the temperature increases. It is much thinner than the Isopon resin sold in many car repair packs. Adding styrene will thin the mixture allowing it to penetrate the glass cloth or matting. It is worked well into the mat to keep the weight to a minimum and any excess is mopped up with paper towels. After several coats the fibreglass will be formed and dries rock hard over a couple of days if the correct temperature is maintained. High temps will reduce the time but will be more difficult to work with as the gel stage will happen much quicker. Sorry to rabbit on a bit but I am trying to warn you that you may end up with a very heavy model if you do not use sparingly. If you can get the consistency similar to yacht varnish you can, like me, paint inside the boat including the underside of the deck. Paint out any runs and remove any excess with paper towels. You really only need a very thin coating. If you need to add strength then use some cloth or matting and work the resin well in and mop off any excess with paper towels. If you want to use your brushes and mixing pots again Acetone is the best cleaner but do keep it away from the resin. Both your alternatives would work just as well. It must be Summertime as we keep having rain showers! Cheers Dave
Hi Guys Only more planking, but, I can finally start to see the hull shape. The veneer planking is dam strong and very light. The only part which I think I maybe required another stringer is the cockpit between the stringer and the sides, but, I will add some 2 ounce fibreglass matt when I resin the inside.
Hi All, don't think that that is quite what Nick meant! Most TX/RX sets nowadays are full of tricks and mixers for the fly boys; first setup question: 'Fixed wing or rotary?' for example! So - Nick: essentially it doesn't matter what you use (except the 35MHz rule of course!) but modifying all the aircraft mixer routines to suit boats is not for the faint hearted or novice. Therefore for your purposes I would recommend a relatively simple 2 to 4 channel set intended for trucks and cars. That gives you the basic control functions, including motor reverse, plus possibility to control a few specials, lighting or sound (horns) for instance. 2.4GHz is the future, but not without it's own pitfalls, as you've already discovered 🤔 I still use my old MC-10 40MHz set; - a) Cos it still works 👍😉 b) It's quick to set up for trials of a new boat or function, 👍 c) the more people move to 2.4GHz the less chance I have of getting any interference! 👍😊 (I have several TX/RX crystal sets anyway 😊 Bought up anything I could find locally the last few years) d) One of my models is a submarine! e) It can also store the setup configuration for 20 models. 👍 f) has no binding rigmarole. 👍👍 Cheers and very happy modelling / sailing, Doug 😎