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>> Home > Tags > matt

matt
matt
How do I resolve my varnish problem? by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 7 days ago
Hi All, Lord Nelson varnish appears to be a Krick product from Germany! http://www.krickshop.de/Products/Paints-Accessories/Paints-for-Shipmodels/Lord-Nelson-Varnish.htm?shop=krick_e&a=catalog&p=435 produced for them by a Belgian company - http://www.ghiant.com/brands/modellers/lord-nelson/ Must also be available in UK? For example http://www.anticsonline.co.uk/1368_1_2970537.html There is also a spray can version- http://hobby.uk.com/ style='background-color:yellow;'>matt-varnish-300ml-spray.html Happy varnishing 😉 Cheers Doug 😎

Er slight Problem by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 11 days ago
Hi When you started the build I saw that you had a good strong flat board and had supported the keel in several places. It looked as though it was all going well until you started to skin the hull with very heavy balsa(?). When applying skins the hull does need to be supported at all times and skins applied equally to both sides at the same time. Wood has a nasty habit of shrinking as it dries, and doing equal planking on both sides helps compensate. When we built the Titanic and Olympic the hulls were built upside down and remained on the build board until all planking was complete. We used 4mm balsa sheets. and covered inside and out with fibreglass matting and cloth. To use this method you need to extend each former so that the hull is level to the board with a gap at the bottom when you have finished. Couple of pics attached may help explain. Good luck with the rebuild Dave

The Kent Clearview screen by robbob Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 12 days ago
There is a white metal ‘ring’ supplied in the kit for the Kent Clearview screen but it is too large and doesn’t look particularly ‘scale’. So after some research on the web and some help from other forum members I found enough information to make one from scratch. The outer ring was made from a narrow section of pvc pipe that I had to hand and this was cut to length in a mitre block and then sanded down to the right thickness on some abrasive paper and then sprayed matt black. I didn’t use the perspex screen supplied in the kit as the hole was too large but the small circular cut-out piece was the right diameter to fit into the ring that I made, the new screen was cut from a new piece of perspex sheet and a hole drilled through the centre to locate the rotating part of the screen. The parts were assembled onto the new screen using canopy glue applied very sparingly with a dressmaking pin. The motor drive assembly on the inside of the screen and the black triangular part that sits on the outside of the screen were made from some black plasticard and these parts were also fixed in place with canopy glue. I used a brass panel pin with the head filed down and painted black for the central bearing of the screen but when I applied a very small amount of canopy glue to fix it capillary action unexpectedly drew the glue between the two ‘panes’ of perspex 😡 Not what I wanted to happen but I decided to leave it to dry to it’s clear state and then assess the situation. Fortunately the glue is not too conspicuous to be much of a concern but it is nevertheless an unwanted blemish that I will have to accept 😭 The finished piece was then glued into the wheelhouse with a few dots of canopy glue and looks quite good as long as you don’t look too closely 😎

Couplings by BOATSHED Commander   Posted: 14 days ago
Hi Doug, Many thanks for your advice on the Taycol wiring.The ESC I am using is for reversing as well. I am not too good on the electrics and reading the electrical diagrams. But the centre diagram you have posted seems straight forward to me. I also have a Taycol Double Special that I will be using. Will your centre wiring diagram be the same for use with the Double Special. Also would it matter if a 10amp Bridge Rectifier was used and on a quick search all I can find is at Maplins is a Resin-Dipped Ceramic 100pF Capacitor would this be sufficient. Tom.

3 Footer on a very rare outing by Westquay Captain   Posted: 16 days ago
PT boats maybe, but Crash Tenders were not as fast. 30 knots isn't that quick and if they went everywhere on the plane they probably wouldn't have the fuel to get home! 2 Meteorite V8s are a very different matter to three Packards! pmdevlin, it's difficult to build heavy if you follow the instructions. Mine is built to Aerokits instructions , has a Taycol Supermarine and used a lantern battery (which Dad used to get for nothing) and it would do a nice scale speed on its marks. Martin

How do I resolve my varnish problem? by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 20 days ago
Your choice, but if the wood is still good would be a shame to hide it 🤔 I agree though varnishing is more work, applying and maintaining. For the deck of my Sea Scout I bought what is termed 'Yacht Varnish'! But I'm sure martin can be more specific. Not a great problem on my grey funnel fleet, except some of the larger ones like Graf Spee and Belfast. I prpose to simply seal them with the silk matt clear varnish from Revell. (Sorry but I live in Germany!) Oh great 'Sultans of Swing' on the radio 😊 Hard luck neighbours 😉

Small scale cleats and bollards by Westquay Captain   Posted: 20 days ago
And by today's post I receive a small Jiffy bag full of goodies!! What a service, from the IoM too! ModellingTimbers:- http://www.modellingtimbers.co.uk/ Everything I asked for, rigging cord to die for, Japanese rigging shears, a scale model galvanised bucket kit with photo-etched detail(!!!) and the most beautiful stanchions. 2 ball for my scale, but no matter, they will look superb on "Vanity" with a bit of cable run through the balls. And the cheapest brass strip I have ever seen (for deck trim, once plated, on classic speedboat models). I repeat my warning that anything you require, I would get now, as he may run out and several lines will not be repeated, at any price. Martin

Finishing by Westquay Captain   Posted: 22 days ago
If you put a question out there, you'll get an answer. At least you will from me if I know about it and I know about paint. Why on earth do you say acrylic can be put over anything UNLIKE cellulose or enamel. Cellulose maybe, but enamel? You can put enamel over anything. I can even get cellulose over almost anything with my spray gun, but I know how to mist it on. I suggested enamel because it is so completely harmless. Cellulose, apart from mixed Halfords and Zero Paints is no longer available. Acrylic as you know can react even with itself. It doesn't have good pigments and doesn't cover well. Enamel does. I was well aware that the original post was from a new member, so I figured he deserved a straight answer. Not everyone wants a matt or even a satin finish on a model boat if it isn't a Warship or a service vessel. Would you put satin varnish on a Greavette or a Chris Craft, matt paint on a model of a luxury yacht of any age? Of course not. This nonsense about scale effect is just that....nonsense. A shine's a shine whether smaller or larger, otherwise where do you stop? Martin

WPB 110 by Inkoust Admiral   Posted: 22 days ago
I can see that the fins are not working, yet the ship is fast enough. Its length is only 70 cm. It is stable and well controlled. It does not matter big waves, it acts like real at sea.

Where do yachties go? by Westquay Captain   Posted: 24 days ago
Having got very little on my particular interest off the 'Net and having threatened to remove my Classic Model Yacht Page from Facebook, I have to ask "where do yachties go?". I thought model sailing was more popular than it seems to be. I don't mean the boring and ugly Isle of Man boats (IoM), but the older, more beautiful classes or info on the older real classes of yachts for that matter. I was amazed to have my suggestion of a sailing section on the "other" forum accepted, but it's not exactly busy, yet RC Groups, Stateside has not only a sailboats section, but a scale sailboats section! I realise this is still essentially the old fire boat forum with extras, so am not suggesting a sailing section here, but..... The Scale Sailing Association has died with one member! The model barge people no longer mention Norfolk Wherries as they used to, where GRP hull makers still survive (just) they are ruinously expensive, the only section that seems to have any popularity is the appallingly ugly little "footie" things, which I would crush rather than operate! Or banana boats fer Krissakes. Where are all the proper sailing fans? Of beautiful class boats or models of real sailing craft? Martin

Counter Rotating Props by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 24 days ago
Hi Reilly, both ships have twin rudders, one per screw, so the direction of rotation hardly matters. See also ma comment re KM 'Narvik' destroyers. Cheers 😎

What size planking for crash tender decks? by Westquay Captain   Posted: 30 days ago
Hi, very surprised you haven't had a reply on this topic. I'm only just going through topics and you've probably finished it by now! I would use lime (basswood) and as deck panks are usually about 3 ins. I would get some 1/4" wide in 1/12th scale lime and use black card or ebonised wood veneer (black stuff) for the caulking. About a milimetre thick is enough for the deck planks. Then I would give it a matt finish with (as Colin has just advised me) a coat or two of Ronseal matt polyurethane varnish, the oil based one. Most model shops will have basswood, especially those dealing with model ships. I also find my local "serious" doll house shop a good supplier of modelling timbers. Cheers, Martin

Matt deck finish by Westquay Captain   Posted: 30 days ago
Hi all, I need to use a matt finish on my model of "Vanity" as she would have had scrubbed teak decks, in fact she still did when I lived on her! Used to leak like a basket, playing a gamalan orchestra in the many pots I had under the drips. So....can anyone recommend a nice reliably matt waterproof finish for the decks on the model. Cheers, Martin

Working out scale by Midlife306 Commander   Posted: 1 month ago
You're more than welcome👍 It's when you're working off 3 different scale plans & photos from odd angles it starts to liquidise my gray matter. Cheers Wayne

Trimaran USV by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi analyst We have a section All Things RC that shows basic RC set up. For the boat you will need two servos and given the size I would go for large heavy duty type servos. One will control the rudder(s) the other the engine throttle. As you are wanting endurance and you have a large model a 12v SLA with a UBEC to reduce the volts to 5/6v. Have a look at http://www.componentshop.co.uk/ for a selection of what is available. Radio wise you may want to consider the Taranis long range receiver as this will give you the range you originally mentioned and certainly more than the standard X8 receivers. The aerial should be as high as possible and as far away from any interference as possible (sparks from the ignition). You cannot extend the aerial length but as you are into amateur radio this is something you will understand. Video is another matter. I believe 5Ghz is the common allocation and I suspect this will be line of sight which may be a problem on a sea going vessel in rough seas or round an inlet. The hull looks good and I look forward to seeing how you progress Dave