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Hi ya Colin I am going to post a link which I hope will explain about tank steering and other various forms of steering. Also, I will post a little pic on which is from the same site. by the way, I don't think any of us stop learning about modelling - no matter how long we have been doing it. It is on par of us understanding women we never will 😊 . https://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/Common/Electrics/Twin_moto...
Building the paddle boxes was remarkably easy, once the 1mm ply had been steamed for bending. I decided to build the boxes first and make sure the paddles fitted inside later, the idea being that all this would come apart for maintenance should it be necessary. (it usually is!). There are few models to be found on the internet to use as reference and hardly any images of the original tug. And to confuse matters, PS Iona also existed as a passenger ship, as well as tug, and looked a bit different. The superstructure is really simple and quick to build, with some more planking! Am liking planking small areas now. The funnels came from some scrap plastic tubing in the garage... just the right diameter too, a lucky find. These will screwed in place from below once I have the other funnel parts made. I plan to run the tug on batteries rather than steam, as I am a relative novice to model boat building. The whole deck will be fitted with 1mm ply as a base before... more planking! Before all this is glued in place, I thought it best to water test the ship first and see how much ballast I am likely to need.
Thanks Joe, I have thought of building a sail boat. Or even a sail barge. like what your currently working on. But, I don't have the tools or the space required! As a matter of fact. My next build will have to be my last! As I only have space in my hobby room. For one last model! Maybe two if I squeeze thing's! And I have elected the Tug San Pedro to be the last build! I'm also interested to see how she works. Using a Z Drive at her bow. Should prove to be very maneuverable! When I worked on tugs in New York harbor. I never got the chance to use a Z Drive! It should be a lot of fun! Cheers, Ed
Hi John, You seem to have missed the point entirely, as you also did with your first post on this thread, in which instead of trying to help Andy and answer his question you attempt to dissuade him from his goal. Unfortunately I missed Andy's question back in March as I was embroiled with family matters. BUT, if he hasn't in the meantime been 'scared off' by the lack of constructive response I will do my best to help, having several times been down the road of multiple screws, as have many other better constructors than me on this site. Nearly all my ships have two, three or even four screws. Only the Sea Scout and ancient Billing Boats fish cutter (a restoration and conversion from static to RC project) have single screws - as per originals. About a year ago I acquired a model of a US Elco PTB fitted with two shafts. I am restoring it, rebuilding as Kennedy's PT109, and will fit the third shaft to complete it to scale as per original. Why? Because that's what scale modelling is about and because it's a challenge - pushing limits. Far be it from me to decry or put down anyone (as you now seem to be trying with me). We all have the enthusiasm (or we wouldn't be here) and do the best we can with the skills nature gave us and what the budget and state of health allows. I have often been astounded and appropriately applauded, and supported where I can, what fellow members have achieved with very limited resources and under very different circumstances from those we in the so called 'Western World' enjoy. That guy in Bangladesh blows my mind with what he manages in the back of beyond! Look for his post about his March '71 boats. WHEN I pitch in here I try to do so with constructive assistance, drawn from my own modelling experience and a lifetime spent working with navies and shipyards, to help a guy achieve his aims and dreams. NOT to immediately deflate him by saying 'Why do that? I did mine this way, it's not what you want but it works for me'. So far the Likes, PMs and mail feedback, request for assisitance I have tell me I'm doing something right. If I do boob (we're all human) I'm prepared to admit it and make amends / corrections. I have no idea what this 'Hooben' is that you yatter on about BUT - if "every little detail (is) reproduced with superb accuracy" why then ruin the overall effect by not continuing this attention to detail on the underwater ship and fitting shafts and screws appropriately? Whatever you do have fun with it, but don't dissuade others from pursuing their dreams. True there are "many roads to travel before one reaches there (!sic) destination" BUT as Confucius said "Every journey begins with the first step." If at the first step someone says 'Your destination is the wrong one' instead of offering a roadmap ..... ! Regards, Doug 😎 BTW: still waiting for the pics / videos of your 'Hooben' (?) and the Perkasa.
Wouldn't call a Precident Perkasa a quickbuild, runabout or ARTR even though there isn't much realistic detail involved, the Hooben however is another matter with every little detail reproduced with superb accuracy. Life is hard enough as it is why make it harder. You are coming across as a pretentious perfectionist who puts down others who don't subscribe to your personal ethos. Not all members are talented miniature marine engineers but still have the same enthusiasm for the hobby. No one should decry them for there lack of skill, if RTR, ARTR, quickbuild or runabout is the limit of there ability, so what !!, they still enjoy the hobby and that's what it is all about. There are many roads to travel before one reaches there destination and the route one takes is up to them ! John
I have also coated my 46" RAF Crash Tender with fiber glass matting and used West Systems two part epoxy. i coated the entire hull in one piece apart from the transom. I left it for two days to harden off. it worked very well. I am fitting the rubbing strakes over the top of the fiberglass using modelling pins and 5 minute epoxy.
Bowsies are easy to make. I've had DF65 ones break so I 3d print my own. I've also made them out of servo horns for other boats and one guy at our club uses buttons. Not sure how race legal they are, but since I don't race it doesn't matter to me.
I am building a 1/24 th scale Perkasa,but this recommendation applies to any warship. Autotek etch primer covers anything with even one coat,and, as an etch primer is good for any substrate including galvanised , ally, plastic / resin.It has an authentic Matt finish,and one squirt repairs any building marks.When finished, I will laquer with Autotek MATT laquer. Find it on ebay at about £10.50 for two 500ml cans! Use in well ventilated room,it is acidic!
Oh yes there is!😉 Just click on the Adobe Icon, when the large version appears click on [Download] in the top left corner. Windows will ask you if you want to Open or Save the file. (Doesn't seem to matter how many times I explain this it is still FAQ Number 1!) Cheers, Doug 😎