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>> Home > Tags > matt

Fiberglassing by sonar Lieutenant   Posted: 1 day ago
Resin alone gelcoat alone and tissue alone or a mixture of any of the above has no strength. However resin used with a matting or woven roven give the strength

Painting the deck & superstructure. by robbob Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 days ago
Although the colour of the grey primer and that of the textured finish look quite good together I am committed to use the custom colour paint that I had mixed for the deck finish. The masking process took a while to do thoroughly as I didn’t want any overspray problems at this late stage but once I was satisfied I applied the first light coat of the ‘BS631 RAF Light Grey’ finishing coat. After a 20 minutes or so the second light coat was applied and then left overnight to harden, two coats on the deck is sufficient as I don’t want to fill the texture finish and ruin the effect. The deck was then masked to leave the cabin sides and superstructure exposed so that I could put a third and fourth coat of the colour on those areas. The resulting gloss finish looks quite good and will be a good contrast to the textured decks that will be finished in matt lacquer. The masking on the decks was then removed and the cabins and superstructure masked up to just expose the decks to receive two light coats of the Halfords matt lacquer. Everything was left for a few days to harden before all the masking was removed to reveal the final result of the painting process. The overall result is very pleasing and was well worth all the time and materials used to achieve it. The custom colour has a slightly 'greenish' hue in contrast to the grey primer that I have been looking at up until now and took a while to get accustomed to but I can say that now really like the colour scheme and that it is reasonably true to the prototype 😁

Fiberglassing by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 8 days ago
Hi chugalone 100 Welcome to the site. You can fibreglass with different types of resin and cloth. If you are making and casting a fibreglass hull use fibreglass matting but to cover a hull lightweight fibreglass cloth is best. This is the type shown in the suggested video. Resin can be epoxy or polyester based but the latter is generally cheaper and in my opinion is easier to use and doesn't require thinning with alcohol. It is sold as layup resin and is supplied with hardener. Do follow the instructions re quantity of each part and mix thoroughly. If you are using epoxy Iso Propyl Alcohol is the type to use and is clear. The video shows using a brush to apply the resin and whilst this is OK it will give a very thick and heavy coating. I use the brush to apply and then a credit card sized piece of plasticard to spread the resin over and into the surface of the cloth resulting in an almost opaque finish with the weave showing through. You do need to have a good surface to work with as any imperfections will show when the resin hardens. Once dry give a light sanding all over to remove any imperfections and fill any holes with car body filler and sand smooth. I then apply a very thin top coat of the resin using a brush. When dry use wet and dry to sand and if necessary apply further thin coats until you have the finish you require. I have a local supplier and if you visit the site k/product.htm all the resins/cloths etc are listed. Using Google should bring up a local supplier. you do need to follow the safety instructions to protect yourself and wear appropriate protection for your hands, eyes and breathing, it is also best to apply in a well ventilated area and not on a cold day. The end result will be well worth the effort to keep your tug waterproof. You could also paint the resin over thye inside of the hull to protect the wood from any water that doeos find its way inside. Dave

RAF Crash Tender by BOATSHED Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 1 month ago
Great looking model. Mistakes ?? It doesn't matter who we are, we can all look at our model's and think like that. But it's a matter of opinion, we can look at anyone's model and think "I wouldn't have done that like that". We do them how we think we wan't it. You should just sit back and say to yourself you are proud of what you have done. If you are then that's all that matters. If anyone tells you different then you should tell them to get on and make one and see if they can do better. Well done, GREAT looking Crash Tender.

Applying the waterline. by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Hi Mark Unless you are looking exactly at the side of the model with your eyes aligned to the level of the line it will look wrong because the spray rail is raised from the hull. If you remember the old type of analogue volt meter, the better ones used to have a mirror on the scale to ensure you were viewing from the correct angle. I suspect now that we have aired the matter many will notice this on model boats. I suppose we are all wishing to achieve the correct finish to our models and yes we are sometimes too exacting. Dave

flesh coloured paint by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi Chris I also have the Humbrol flesh paint. To darken the skin I use a pallette and place a few drops of the Flesh paint on the surface together with separate drops of red brown yellow and black. Just a matter then of taking some of the flesh colour to a spare spot and adding and mixing in the different colours to produce the shade of skin you require. Keep a piece of white paper to try the mix on and see how it dries. To create stubble I use Black almost dry with a very stiff bristle brush previously dabbed on paper to remove most of the paint. The more you experiment the better you will get. Cheers Dave

Spraying the ‘anti fouling’ by robbob Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
I have seen examples of this boat with a bright red gloss finish for the anti-fouling and as nice and shiny as it looks I have decided to be true to the original colour scheme as much as possible. Red oxide primer is a very close colour match to anti fouling paint, apparently, so I found some Simoniz red oxide paint on eBay at a very good price. I’m led to believe that one paint maker (Holts ?) makes the same paint for Halfords, Simoniz and others, it’s an acrylic paint with a matt finish so there should be no compatibility problems. Masking off the hull with a couple of layers of newspaper is quick and easy and it’s ready to go into the spray booth. First coat on and it’s looking good, second coat after 20 minutes or so and I’m really happy with the results and the Simoniz paint is perfectly compatible with the Halfords primer. For good measure I’ll spray a third coat after the first two have hardened overnight, I’ll give the surface a very light key with a fine abrasive pad first. Then it’s on to the rest of the hull with the black gloss.

Robbe 11941000 by figtree7nts Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
Hi Sergio59 I found what you are looking for but unfortunately ,The item is temporarily unavailable. Please go to the following link. http://www.cornwallmodelboats. ets.html go to the bottom of the page, and you will see the parts. You can also send a message, they are very helpful in these matters. I hope this helps! Regards, Ed PS. Maybe others might also know of other model shops too.

Soldering suppressors to motor by figtree7nts Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
Hi Mikelin2 I must agree with Georgeo5664, follow his directions you can't go wrong. you must solder the capacitors like he has described. The capacitors will help with any interference made by the motor(S) Take your time and look at the picture. You need to use capacitors that are the right ratings. lets say 2 capacitor at 0.1uF and one at 0.047uF now slide the 0.047uF capacitor through both terminals on the motor, slide the ends of the 0.1uF capacitors onto the opposite end of the motor terminal. now solder the terminals with solder. Take the ends of both 0.1uF capacitors and solder them to the case of the motor. Make sure you grind down a bit of the case. so that when you solder the capacitors to the case they stick to the case. Don't forget to solder on the leads, that go to your motor(S). Now as to the question about do you need the capacitors I would use them know matter what, just in case. But I've been told that if your using a radio that's on 2.4Ghz, You don't need any capacitors... I hope this helps But, in the event that you still don't get it, I would try to become a member to one of the local RC model clubs near you. And see if someone can help you with your motor. NOTE: Please use this information for a Brushed motor Only!

Deck fittings by manyboats Lieutenant   Posted: 3 months ago
The anchor is all plastic card. The winch from various bits of scrap. All the other fittings and handrails are stainless steel. I thought the soldering might be a problem, but got lucky again with a gift of a suitable aggressive flux. I had some silver solder in powder form, which with the flux worked a treat. Just a matter of holding things together with clamps and props. The Rails are SS welding rods, another gift.

Strips by manyboats Lieutenant   Posted: 3 months ago
The pictures are slightly out of sync but no matter...Now ready for the chine (cedar) and spray rails from triangular section plasticard strips glued with rubberised cyanoacrylate. Paint used was auto acrylic spray cans; lots of filler primer sanded back and a couple of topcoats.. I thought masking the waterline would be a problem but using thin lengths of blue masking tape to get the line then adding full width with paper mask, it worked out fine.

Priming the hull. by pmdevlin Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
I used grey card for the caulking, I was lucky with some light coloured strip I was given, unfortunately no idea what it was, then I think I stained with clear satin or matt ronseal varnish, the final effect was nice. The battery access, and the large central access in the rear well was just painted with aluminium paint, rivet detail on the towhook reinforcement and battery access panel was with dressmaker pins 😊

What Colour? by cormorant Commander   Posted: 4 months ago
That's a thought, thanks Mark. I could strengthen it with a matt varnish perhaps? Steve

What Colour? by jarvo Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 months ago
Hi Steve, also a possibility is grey primer, if you want a matt finish Mark

DAMEN STAN 4207 by RHBaker Captain   Posted: 4 months ago
The weather has turned colder and forstalled any temptations to spend valuable boat building time outdoors. Have now been able to focus on finishing the hull. This was done with the usual technique of rubbing down (both mechanical and manual) and then filling any depressions or defects with either wood filler or glaze putty. Then rubbing down again ' and again! After each completed rub sprayed the hull with aerosol paint, initially primer, then working up to colour and finally a clear matte to protect the decals and dull the earlier gloss finish. I prefer to use gloss for the intermediate coats as it reveals the surface defects clearly. The only problem encountered was with the opening stern gate, after much trial usage this began to get a 'chatter' during opeation. Dismantled and examined the micro servo and found that several small gear teeth had broken off. Attributed this to operating the gate by hand during the build. In future will only operate the gate under power. Whilst more time consuming this prevents any tendency for the linkage to go over centre and lock up, thus overloading and breaking the small gear teeth. The pictures show the hull finished up to deck level. There are no fittings installed. From now on anticipate the model completion will follow traditional lines, so will confine blog entries to those that either capture a milestone, or where something interesting or unusal has happened.