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Model Boats Website Team
December 2018: 5 people November 2018: 11 people October 2018: 9 people September 2018: 13 people August 2018: 5 people July 2018: 8 people June 2018: 8 people May 2018: 7 people April 2018: 24 people March 2018: 10 people
What defines a model boat suitable for inclusion in your model boat website personal fleet. my boats are kit built models but could i include a speed boat or a yacht that is purchased as a completed boat,factory made and ready to go ? members views / comments welcome.
Welcome John, I envy you youngsters, a scratch built boat to any standard is always the best way to get what you want, and this site is full of members with the knowledge and skills to help, sadly I have never been able to build from scratch, but I make lots of parts to repair or replace damaged or missing parts from the vintage models I have restored. Best advice is to ask specific questions to get the best help in the world at your fingertips. Happy modelling and cheers from me Colin.
Is there any members on this website who are interested in marine gas-powered steam engines, as the power source of their model boat, as opposed to electric motors. If so could you drop me a line as I would be very interested in making your acquaintance. I have never seen anything at all to date concerning steam power, which is rather a shame as it's the nearest thing to the real thing, and you don't have to shovel coal, use gas.
I am thinking of building a new sailing yacht from plans which I have yet to acquire. I have 8 A4 pages of drawings of a Goth-USOM from Frank Russell 2014, not sure where I got them from and if they are worthy of the time and effort. The size is about right at 1000mm length and about 1500mm deck to masthead. I have had dealings with Nylet in the past and am sure they would be helpful for rigging, sails etc. I plan to plank build the hull onto wooden bulkheads. Although I have built several model boat hulls using this method before I wonder if I could enlist some help or recommendations from any other members of this group ie choice of plans, how to do it books. Many thanks Chris G
I'm thinking of using MASONRY drills sharpened up. I've seen a demo on U tube of this. Some yrs ago I got a set of those drills that are supposed to drill through anything. First one I tried now has a flat end.I couldn't find my membership no so can't send them back.Bugger😤👍. They have tips like masonry drills so might touch them up and have a go. It's the carbide tips that do the job. It'a allen screws I'm drilling so what is that HSS or tool or something in between?
Thanks for the link Havelock, For me though a can of fixer is still cheaper than a laser printer for the few times I need to print decals, an' I've already got two A4/A3 ink jet jobs any way. Bon chance to our richer members who have laser printers. Cheers, Doug 😎
This is a old model I purchased to renovate after few months here is the completed build. Must give many thanks for all the advice and help given to me by the members of Model Boats, and thanks to all the other builds I gathered a lot of the information to the build. Tried to get a near original model but a few discrepancies as not all to scale. We’d more practice and experience this is my third build so am still learning.
Thanks for the offer, Marky, but it's specifically the Waverley we need drawings for, or rather the superstructure. Sarik have a set, but hardly exhaustive. I suppose general dimensions and all the hundreds of photos will have to do, unless any of you guys know differently. I was going to ask on Paddleducks but they are talking closing down for lack of use and age of the membership, so no point asking there. Doug, can you imagine the repetitive stress problems of twiddling a pin chuck that many times? I have a lovely old fine feed pillar drill, but it's in bits being cleaned and repainted. Cheers, Martin
Hello there epmbcmember. I went to visit you site a couple of weeks ago to sus out the approach. A great pool and facilities. Met a very helpful lady who give me a look around and a membership form. I am a little limited in movement and your setup looks to be at the right height, approachable and no parking problems. I live in North Wales and will be sending the membership form in as soon as I can find my cheque Book! All the best. NPJ.
Hi all for the second blog report on the schnellboot I am going to go over the rudder a propeller shaft assembly in more detail. The first stage was to make the rudders which were made of brass ,and having taken note of what has been said about the increase in size needed for the kit by other members I have increased the size of the rudders by 50% so that they have more effect and hopefully the boat will be more agile .I fitted 3mm treaded rod on to the rudder and in a 4mm flanged tube to reinforce the brass rod. The second stage was to make and fit 5mm flanged tube in the location for the rudders in the boat, these were made to be above the water line and will be sealed in place to reduce the possibility of leaks. These were fitted to a rudder platform inside the boat which was fitted to the kit moulding for the rubbing strip that runs the length on the boat and secured by making resin blocks which were fitted with computer extension nuts. which were then superglue in place to secure the rudder platform. The rudders were then fitted in place and held in position with the tiller collars which were made from 8mm rod and fitted the tiller arms and locked in place with 3mm computer screws and ni-lock nuts, a connecting plate was then fitted to connect the three tillers together, I also fitted rubberised washers to seal the rudder tubes. The third stage was to make the propeller supports. The centre support was a direct copy of the kit part made of brass and fitted to the kit with a plate and screws (this plate and the rudder plate were made from galvanised steel) and will sealed with resin after the I test the boat for leaks. The port and starboard supports were made by taking the kit parts and cutting them in have along the joint line or mould seam this gave me a template ,which I used to make cross-section segments but I did alter the template by increasing the boss diameter to 10mm and extending the support legs so that the finished support could be fitted through the hull (the picture of these show the mk1 version where I forgot to allow for the 4mm prop shaft which has a 6mm tube) any way the boss of these segments were drilled out with a 7mm drill and a length of 7mm brass tube fitted through the boss to assemble the segments, all of which were coated in soldering flux at this stage of the assembly which were riveted at both ends to hold it all together during soldering, after soldering the supports were then filed to the size and shape to resemble the kit parts as close as possible and fitted to the hull using a superglue and talcum powder mix and then I cast resin around the extensions to secure the prop supports in place. The fourth stage is the propeller shaft housing for the centre propeller housing I place a brass rod in a plastic straw and place in position in hull and using resin I sealed the hull with the rod in place this gave me a pilot hole for the centre prop shaft after I removed the brass rod. For the port and starboard shafts I used the kit parts which had hole place when assembled, this when I reinforced the housings ,the centre housing I glue 2mm of plasticard on each side and for the port and starboard I made a brass tube shroud which covered the housings which left gaps between the kit part and the brass which was filled by casting resin in the gap this increased the diameter to 10 mm so that there were little chance of breaking throw with the drill and finished these off by fill-in the outside with body filler and sanded to shape and finish . I then drilled through the pilot hole in the housings using very long extended drills and a wheel brace ( if I had use a power drill the heat would have melted the plastic of the kit and may have caused problems) I drill the shaft housings out 6mm them filed them out with 6mm file so that I could insert a length of 6mm brass tube. After all this was done I fitted a flanged bush made from 7mm tube and 2mm brass plate turned to 11mm to the ends or the propeller shaft housings. And now it is time I must ask for some help could anyone advise me on the length of propeller shafts, I know I can use a 300mm shaft for the centre shaft, but port and starboard will have to be longer. and I also need advice on selecting the motors, I want to use 4mm prop shaft with 35mm propellers. Any opinions welcome.
Shapeways have the greatest range of ship and boat crew members but they are expensive. You can ask for whatever scale you like, just need to discuss with the designer. https://www.shapeways.com/marketplace/miniatures/figurines?t... I got my U-boat crew done in 1/45 and a few of the characters with slightly modified poses. For my WW2 MTB's I used Preiser German firemen figures and modified them. They are not available any more.
Hello there, easy to send P. M. To any member, just click the members name on a post, then click the private message button, put your questions etc. Then post. It will not be seen by anyone else but the member you send it to. Cheers Colin.
Hi mate lm not to sure on how we communicate between members, not been on the M B website for long my self. l can get a copy of the plan printed up dont want paying for the plan just make a donation to the website. I think one of the a adjudicators may be able to explain how to communicate without putting to many personal details out onthe web. ok jim.