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I built this Aerokits Patrol Torpedo boat over about ten years and finished, as I found painted under one of the life rafts, in 1993. I sailed it at my local pond and all went very well. The only problem I had was the speed. It was quite slow. The MFA brushed motor was strong but slow. I have received a lot of help so far on this site for which I am grateful. I have decided to do a complete renovation which is scheduled to be completed whenever. I work all day so can only spend limited time doing this. We will see how it goes. I must admit that I am not too concerned with the result being authentic to the prototype. If it looks good and I like it, that`s good. Sorry if you like things to be perfect to the original. If you see something I plan to do which you feel can be tackled differently, please shout. I may not always follow advice but I will always listen. I have attached a few pictures of the boat as it is for reference. It`s still not too bad for 35 years old. Just in case you notice, I have no idea as to why I thought it was a good idea to block the Captains view with a gun tub.😱 I will be stripping the deck back to bare bones soon so will post more soon. Thanks for looking and in advance for all the help that I am sure is just around the corner😊
I still have a 34" Raf crash tender still unbuilt that I bought back in 1994 when they released a run of 50 on the 50th anniversary of the model in the Model Boats magazine. I also have a Vosper 46” RAF Crash Tender Kit By Vintage Model Works sitting in my shed. One day I will get around to building them Along with restoring my Sea Hornet, Sea Commander, Sea Queen and my Huntsman along with several other boats, including an MFA Spearfish and a Stratos Interceptor, Hydrofibre Pipedream both of which were the same company just that they had a change of name. Along with at least 3 others. I will do them sometime.
Oh, I'm going to have to take out a small loan. The motor I'm going to be using is the Dumas 12Volt. It retails for a mere $82.00 Ouch! 😲 Couldn't use MFA reduction motors. Because they wouldn't align to the drive shaft!
Hi Guys Looking at the motor 5,100 rpm @12 volts is 60 Watts of power. We use Hobbyking gear in our club mainly. As they have a special on a present with free delivery over $50 US. 3639-1100kv(800 Watts)(170 grams) is cheaper than the sister motor 3639-750kv(600Watts). ESC car 100 Amp is near half price. A programming card is required but these are cheap. We used a MFA Spearfish as a test boat with the 1100 and on Zippy Compact 3S 5800mah 60C(449grams) clock 27KPH. Changing to a Zippy Compact 4S 5800mah(567grams) 40C clock 37KPH. Run time a good half hour or more depending how fast you push it. We do not watercooling on this motor which will work out OK in your setup. The Hobbyking car ESC(part No.HK100A)(106 grams) has a fan for cooling and with the large interior of you boat heating will not be a problem. I am using this setup in both my Sea Commander and 1920 Gentleman's Runabout. My little Sea Hornet is using a 1900kv 28mm motor on a smaller 3S 2650mah. If you have no plans for your boat, I have a PDF copy(free of course). If you wish to go faster, a straight change over to the 3648 1450kv(1600 Watt) beast!!!! Canabus
Hi. I have just joined the forum to try to learn, and possibly help, although I consider my knowledge to be `limited`. Many years ago I bought the Aerokits Patrol Torpedo Boat. More than 30 years I think. Ten years later I decided to build it. I think the construction is ok, except for the Captains view being blocked by a turret. The boat runs well, although a little slow. It has a 12 volt MFA Marlin motor running from two 6 volt batteries in series. I have several items that I would like some advice on but they can wait for a while whilst I prepare the boat for a refurbishment. I intend to replace all of the fittings with new and possibly try to improve the performance. The boat is driven by a 35mm diameter propellor with quite a heavy pitch. My question for today is whether a change in motor to a MFA Torpedo 850 would be wise. There is only one motor. Thanks.😊
Hi - I've got one of those and once I've progressed with some of my other builds I'm planning on replacing the old MFA 850 with a brushless. Being quite a heavy beast and wanting decent speed but not manic I'm looking at one of the Overlander 50 dia. brushless outrunners which will provide the torque required and use a 45 or 50mm 3 blade prop. Definitely LiPos for me. The 7.3v lead acid was fine in the boat weightwise on the water but too heavy and unwieldy for moving around and launching and with LiPos you can easily up the volts without much increase in weight. Chris
So here we go again! I have decided to give other projects a rest for a time in favour of this little gem. Pick up off eBay for less than £100 NIB posted, couldnt resist! Its the Dumas (kit no:1203) 44' Coast Guard Lifeboat. I dont know if this kit is still produced by Dumas and having looked at the Die cutting of the parts, certainly seems like an old kit? However, I love my building and the challenges, so I am sure it will turn out nice at the end. Finished length 33". I shall be converting this to a RNLI Waveney Class Lifeboat and will possibly go with 44-003 named "Khami" which was based in Great Yarmouth and Gorleston, which is local to me here in Suffolk. Sadly very little turns up on this boat via Google, but at some stage may pop out to the Great Yarmouth Lifeboat station and see if I can hunt anymore info on her. I shall not be using the recommended Dumas running gear for 2 reasons, 1st its a geared set-up (I am going with MFA540 brushed direct drive) and the cost of over £150! Photos show the box artwork, plans and the included wood. Last photo shows my electrics less propshafts and props that are on order. Note the Star Wars 3.75" figures that with poetic licence could be painted to represent crew. However, at this point the model is approx 1;16 scale and the figures would be 1:18 scale so maybe too small. There are 1:16 scale lifeboat figures available but pricey? My one issue at this point is going to battery choice? do I go with a small 6v lead acid or perhaps 2 Tamiya type 7.2v NIMH in series. anyone who has built anything like this may want to advise. LIPO not an option as the Mtroniks ESC do not support LIPO. Space inside the hull may also be an issue? Another issue is going to be fabricating some propshaft struts for the rear next to the props. There is quite a bit of prop shaft exposed outside the hull, so these would be integral to support and strength of the propshafts. Is there anything available off the shelf (they are included in the running gear set, but dont seem to be available on there own) of do I need to fabricate from brass tube and sheet/strip brass?
Thank's RNinMunich, Dave M, canabus, reilly4. for the information you have added in your post's. That will be very helpful for me with a couple of boats I am hoping to get set up in the future with brushless motors. An Aeorokits Sea Commander, Sea Queen and an MFA Spearfish.
I always use as smaller rudder as I can get away with. I had been running model boats for many years then one day when on Blackheath pond someone was watching my boat and remarked on how it turned. badly, and I replied that's how it had always turned. The guy had a boat the same as mine it was a MFA Spearfish, He asked if he could swap rudders on my boat and try his on my boat so that's what I done and it performed much better on the water. I then tried it on my Vosper RAF Crash Tender and it just stuck to the water on any turn tight or wide. So I have done this ever since. On my Huntsman I had turned it over several times before trying this so I done the same on this and once again it was a lot better turning and didn't turn over. I don't like using large rudders if I cannot get one small enough for what I wan't I will get one and then cut it down. We used to race 5 or 6 boats on the water at a time and always needed to turn tight turns to get round the pond. Even watching Power Boat racing on the telly in the past they make tight turns to get round. I have a Probaot Miss Geico tunnel hull and straight from the box brand new the rudder on that has no leading edge and I can turn that flat out on the water with no roll at all. I suppose I am a speed freak and it has worked fine for me. Even if it is the wrong thing to do. The small avatar picture on my posts is a boat I have in Norfolk. This has a 1960 Volvo Penta outdrive probably one of the earliest one's made and that doesn't like to turn on 3/4 throttle without the engine revs dropping and digging in on a turn. I have tried this when out on open water up there. Don't try it now as got a warning from the Norfolk River Constabulary. Don't want to loose my river licence.
The 46" Huntsman is a big old beast and I'd be looking at something different. You want good speed but not manic. The one you mention is an inrunner brushless which doesn't have as much torque size for size as an outrunner. If it was me (and it will be at some stage as I have a 46" Huntsman with an MFA 850 brushed motor in it) I'd be looking for a 50 diameter outrunner around 700kv which will give plenty of torque. There is a Turnigy just under that which might do. I'm building a 33" Swordsman and am fitting an Overlander Tornado Thumper V3 4250/06 800kv outrunner. It is probably a little oversize but my thinking is that the motor will have an easy time, run cooler and the battery (4S) will last longer. If it is too fast I'll limit the throttle. Better to be too big than too small in my book. Overlander do a 5045/10 720kw which should be good on 4S which could always be increased to 6S if necessary. See what others say though. Chris
[Score: 8/10] 38"/5000g SeaSpray Capable of 12mph and a runtime of 20mins Single Propellor (2 Blade S Type 35mm) Direct Drive to a MFA 850 (2 Blade S Type) Powered by LiPoly (11.1v) 6Amp/h Batteries - Comments: Purchased as kit around 1972, fibre glass hull with ply deck and superstructure. Had many changes and refits over the years and was originally fitted with and OS Marine glow engine which gave good performance and was quiet! Changed to the MFA electric motor with ESC. Installed two LiPo batteries which makes the hull well balanced and allows the deep V hull design to plane as designed. Have designed and made two electro-magnetic lifting sticks which help me raise and lower the boat into the water. Age related launching aid!
Hi canabus, could you please tell me what brushless motor's you have in your, Sea Hornet,Sea Commander and Sea Queen pelese. I have all three of these as well. Somewhere down the line I will be converting those to brushless. I don't understand all the electrical data myself. I do have a Proboat Miss Geico and she is awesome on the water at full speed. I have purchased the same motor and speed controller as what is in her to put in a new MFA Spearfish that I still have on the shelf in my work shed. I look forward to your set up's.
Hi Andy, what you might call a FAQ!! Have a look at the info here to help filter the plethora of motor specs and find something close to the MFA850 performance - or better as the brushless motors are more powerful size for size and LiPo batteries much lighter. http://www.thercmodelboatforum.com/t1234-brushed-to-brushles... As a guide here is a table of the Graupner brushless specs for you to compare with the 850 spec. There is no conversion table as such, especially since with many brushless and ESCs you can alter the performance by adjusting timing at the ESC! Turbo!! Happy hunting, cheers Doug 😎