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>> Home > Tags > mk1

mk1
mk1
Landing Ship Tanks (WW2) by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 months ago
Mornin' John, For floating out the LCTs! This later version had a big ramp over the bow (no bow doors) and a floodable well deck for LCTs, LCPs and LCACs (known as 'LCacks'!). A huge hole right through about 2/3s of the ship 😲 Was awesome to behold, once I'd stopped meself falling into it! Tanks and trucks over the bow ramp, assault troops via LCPs and LCacks out of the blunt end! We fitted VHF/UHF/HF COMMS and datalink systems. When the Brazilian Navy carrier NaeL Minas Gerais, see pic (ex Colossus class HMS Vengeance) was finally scrapped the radios and digital intercom system we had fitted to her in the 90s was transferred to one of these Newport class LSTs. 2nd pic shows her in Rio de Janeiro harbour,Guanabara Bay, where I worked on her. Behind her are three Niteroi class frigates (Vosper MK10s) which we also fitted with HF/VHF/UHF COMMS and Digital Intercom. Good times!😉 3rd pic shows her sad end on a scrapping beach in India, the last of the WW2 RN Colossus class😭 Abraços, Doug 😎

Help required on Boat i.d. by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 months ago
Hi John, already did that on all the Vosper, Vosper Thornycroft, BAE Systems Surface Ships etc etc sites. Nix! I suspect it may have been a design offered for an Request To Tender but not accepted and never built. Nevertheless, have a go and see if you find something I overlooked👍 MPC 85 means; Multi Purpose Corvette 85m. Cheers, Doug 😎 PS also worked on the VT Mk10 Frigates also shown in your link, the Niteroi Class for Brazil. Niteroi is the name of the town on the other side of the bay from Rio. At the other end of the bridge connecting the two towns is the Brazilian Navy submarine base where I also worked on some Tupi class submarines, German Type 209s. Good times 😉 PPS I'm still suspicious of that curious stern! Never seen anything like that afloat!!

Rudders and Propellers by teejay Commander   Posted: 4 months ago
Hi all for the second blog report on the schnellboot I am going to go over the rudder a propeller shaft assembly in more detail. The first stage was to make the rudders which were made of brass ,and having taken note of what has been said about the increase in size needed for the kit by other members I have increased the size of the rudders by 50% so that they have more effect and hopefully the boat will be more agile .I fitted 3mm treaded rod on to the rudder and in a 4mm flanged tube to reinforce the brass rod. The second stage was to make and fit 5mm flanged tube in the location for the rudders in the boat, these were made to be above the water line and will be sealed in place to reduce the possibility of leaks. These were fitted to a rudder platform inside the boat which was fitted to the kit moulding for the rubbing strip that runs the length on the boat and secured by making resin blocks which were fitted with computer extension nuts. which were then superglue in place to secure the rudder platform. The rudders were then fitted in place and held in position with the tiller collars which were made from 8mm rod and fitted the tiller arms and locked in place with 3mm computer screws and ni-lock nuts, a connecting plate was then fitted to connect the three tillers together, I also fitted rubberised washers to seal the rudder tubes. The third stage was to make the propeller supports. The centre support was a direct copy of the kit part made of brass and fitted to the kit with a plate and screws (this plate and the rudder plate were made from galvanised steel) and will sealed with resin after the I test the boat for leaks. The port and starboard supports were made by taking the kit parts and cutting them in have along the joint line or mould seam this gave me a template ,which I used to make cross-section segments but I did alter the template by increasing the boss diameter to 10mm and extending the support legs so that the finished support could be fitted through the hull (the picture of these show the mk1 version where I forgot to allow for the 4mm prop shaft which has a 6mm tube) any way the boss of these segments were drilled out with a 7mm drill and a length of 7mm brass tube fitted through the boss to assemble the segments, all of which were coated in soldering flux at this stage of the assembly which were riveted at both ends to hold it all together during soldering, after soldering the supports were then filed to the size and shape to resemble the kit parts as close as possible and fitted to the hull using a superglue and talcum powder mix and then I cast resin around the extensions to secure the prop supports in place. The fourth stage is the propeller shaft housing for the centre propeller housing I place a brass rod in a plastic straw and place in position in hull and using resin I sealed the hull with the rod in place this gave me a pilot hole for the centre prop shaft after I removed the brass rod. For the port and starboard shafts I used the kit parts which had hole place when assembled, this when I reinforced the housings ,the centre housing I glue 2mm of plasticard on each side and for the port and starboard I made a brass tube shroud which covered the housings which left gaps between the kit part and the brass which was filled by casting resin in the gap this increased the diameter to 10 mm so that there were little chance of breaking throw with the drill and finished these off by fill-in the outside with body filler and sanded to shape and finish . I then drilled through the pilot hole in the housings using very long extended drills and a wheel brace ( if I had use a power drill the heat would have melted the plastic of the kit and may have caused problems) I drill the shaft housings out 6mm them filed them out with 6mm file so that I could insert a length of 6mm brass tube. After all this was done I fitted a flanged bush made from 7mm tube and 2mm brass plate turned to 11mm to the ends or the propeller shaft housings. And now it is time I must ask for some help could anyone advise me on the length of propeller shafts, I know I can use a 300mm shaft for the centre shaft, but port and starboard will have to be longer. and I also need advice on selecting the motors, I want to use 4mm prop shaft with 35mm propellers. Any opinions welcome.

MV Rhapsody by davidhgreatbatch Captain   Posted: 5 months ago
Sea trials of my 1/15 scale model of a Freeman 32 Mk1 river cruiser

M.V. Rhapsody by davidhgreatbatch Captain   Posted: 5 months ago
1/15 scale scratch built model of my boat (Freeman 32 Mk1) Rhapsody.

Range Safety Launch? by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 6 months ago
Hi Canabus, #382 may well have been what you say! But this model has obviously been built as a THORNYCROFT 43ft RANGE SAFETY LAUNCH. The cabin structure and fittings are totally different. For me the 'give-aways' were the three side windows and the foreward bulge on the cabin. I had wondered about the number on the model from the outset. http://www.rafboats.co.uk/rsl43.html Pics show one example FoC #1640. On the above url you can see several more. Pic 7 is a MK1 40 foot Firefloat #55. Last 3 pics are 40foot MK1 Seaplane Tenders, #377 in a sad n sorry state😲 but apparently about to undergo restoration? Cheers, Doug 😎 PS: Attached also a pic of Firefloat #90, a MK1A. She was converted to a Seaplane Tender #467 in November 1949. FF91 was converted to ST382 in Feb 1950.

Range Safety Launch? by canabus Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 6 months ago
Hi The 382 was a Fire Float Mk1(40 foot) (No. 90) converted in Feb 1950 to a Seaplane Tender. Max speed 21 knots. The MFA 800's are 5167 rpm( unloaded) @ 12 volts/ 5.3 Amps. Replacing these with 3639-750Kv brushless on 2S Lipo batteries(7.2 volts) would give you 5400 rpm( unloaded). 2S 4000mah 25C Lipo's(one for each motor) weigh 221 grams each. Canabus

LED Tug Mast Navigation Lights by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 7 months ago
No sweat Pete, our family is very similar, my Mum, 93 last March, is just the same. She was gobsmacked when I souped up her Mk1 Mini Cooper (many years ago😲), or fixed her up with digital TV on a 50" screen, installed an extra phone in her bedroom etc etc etc! I just thought it was only a matter of time before someone started extracting the Michael. Should have known it would be Ed 😁😁 As for 'clowning around', check out my posts😉 All the best, Doug 😎

what have I got? by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 8 months ago
Most definitely a Seaplane Tender Bryan 👍 Either a 40' Mk1 like #308 or a 41.5' Mk1 like #1600. Check here for more views of more STs. 😉 http://www.rafboats.co.uk/galleryst.html The one you found, #206, is a 37.5' Mk1, with 3 side windows. Yours has 4 like the 40 and 41.5 footers. Happy restoring, Cheers Doug 😎 BTW you can buy #206 if you fancy it😁 see last pic!

Fire Float info. by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 8 months ago
I have found that the No. 153 boat was possibly either a Brooke, of which one is for sale or a Maynard of Chiswick. I reckon the second as they made a 27 foot one which I reckon this is, interpolating the mens' height to the length of the boat. I will press on at that assumption and make a simple round bilge hull, as light as possible to use a small motor. The real one would have been a 75 HP ish engine, mounted just inside the raised foredeck. I'm sure there must be plans for the BPBCo. 37'- 6" Mk1 fire float somewhere. Cheers, Martin

getting a bit slow?... by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 9 months ago
Sorry, I didn't realise there had been any follow up to this. (May I suggest a "View New Posts" button? Or am I missing something) I think my remarks a year ago were perfectly valid, now you remind me of them. I thought I'd been offensive or something. I see no cause for offense there. Teejay, you, too, have misunderstood my post. I was saying why I had left model railways, a hobby of a lifetime so far. THAT alone was the area of kit snobbery. Not here, or in model aircraft forums, which are nearly all kit based, yet I am a happy member of Large Scale Planes and Britmodeller. Mainly because two old friends tend to communicate with me that way. Doug, I have a 1/48th scale Mk1 Airfix Spitfire which I have turned into the First Flight in zinc chromate and polished metal, because I don't do military (liveries, at least) and have made a scratchbuilt photographer and his plate camera for the set-piece. It all sits on a bit of died lint grass. Then I have a 1/48th scale Airfix English Electric Lightning as it's a superb kit and impressive in that scale. I got it cheap off ebay. I also bought an Italian resin kit of a Houchin start-up compressor to go with it, which was amazing value and have made a tarmac set-piece ready for displaying that lot on. It was purely to save time getting something I just fancied doing. It's the foil covering on the Lightning I fancied doing. No snobbery there and when others buy loads of aftermarket stuff to add to it, none there either. And they usually make it all fit themselves. They don't pay someone else to do it. If injury or health demands it, that's a very different kettle of fish, but those sort of people rarely, if ever,brag. So, once and for all, nothing I said this time had any reference to this forum or this hobby. What I said a year ago I meant, but perhaps it was a bad day. I always read what I type as my hard, dry old fingertips slip around the keyboard and I wouldn't understand my own typing if I didn't check it. Doug has indeed helped others and me too. But so, I think, have I. Indeed that has always been my intention after a lifetime in modelmaking. Cheers, Martin

Rudders and propeller by teejay Commander   Posted: 10 months ago
Hi all for the second blog report on the schenllboot I am going to go over the rudder an propeller shaft assembly in more detail. The first stage was to make the rudders which were made of brass ,and having taken note of what has been said about the increase in size needed for the kit by other members I have increased the size of the rudders by 50% so that they have more effect and hopefully the boat will be more agile .I fitted 3mm treaded rod on to the rudder and in a 4mm flanged tube to reinforce the brass rod. The second stage was to make and fit 5mm flanged tube in the location for the rudders in the boat , these were made to be above the water line and will be sealed in place to reduce the possibility of leaks. These were fitted to a rudder platform inside the boat which was fitted to the kit moulding for the rubbing strip that runs the length on the boat and secured by making resin blocks which were fitted with computer extension nuts .which were then superglue in place to secure the rudder platform. The rudders were then fitted in place and held in position with the tiller collars which were made from 8mm rod and fitted the tiller arms and locked in place with 3mm computer screws and ni-lock nuts, a connecting plate was then fitted to connect the three tillers together, I also fitted rubberised washers to seal the rudder tubes. The third stage was to make the propeller supports. The centre support was a direct copy of the kit part made of brass and fitted to the kit with a plate and screws (this plate and the rudder plate were made from galvanised steel)and will sealed with resin after the I test the boat for leaks. The port and starboard supports were made by taking the kit parts and cutting them in have along the joint line or mould seam this gave me a template ,which I used to make cross-section segments but I did alter the template by increasing the boss diameter to 10mm and extending the support legs so that the finished support could be fitted through the hull (the picture of these show the mk1 version where I forgot to allow for the 4mm prop shaft which has a 6mm tube) any way the boss of these segments were drilled out with a 7mm drill and a length of 7mm brass tube fitted through the boss to assemble the segments, all of which were coated in soldering flux at this stage of the assembly which were riveted at both ends to hold it all together during soldering, after soldering the supports were then filed to the size and shape to resemble the kit parts as close as possible and fitted to the hull using a superglue and talcum power mix and then I cast resin around the extensions to secure the prop supports in place. The forth stage is the propeller shaft housing for the centre propeller housing I place a brass rod in a plastic straw and place in position in hull and using resin I sealed the hull with the rod in place this gave me a pilot hole for the centre prop shaft after I removed the brass rod. For the port and starboard shafts I used the kit parts which had hole place when assembled, this when I reinforced the housings ,the centre housing I glue 2mm of plasticard on each side and for the port and starboard I made a brass tube shroud which covered the housings which left gaps between the kit part and the brass which was filled by casting resin in the gap this increased the diameter to 10 mm so that there were little chance of breaking throw with the drill and finished these off by fill-in the outside with body filler and sanded to shape and finish . I then drilled through the pilot hole in the housings using very long extended drills and a wheel brace ( if I had use a power drill the heat would have melted the plastic of the kit and may have caused problems) I drill the shaft housings out 6mm them filed them out with 6mm file so that I could insert a length of 6mm brass tube. After all this was done I fitted a flanged bush made from 7mm tube and 2mm brass plate turned to 11mm to the ends or the propeller shaft housings. And now it is time I have to ask for some help could any one advise me on the length of propeller shafts , I know I can use a 300mm shaft for the centre shaft but port and starboard will have to be longer . and I also need advice on selecting the motors , I want to use 4mm prop shaft with 35mm propellers. Any opinions welcome.

HMS HOOD by Trumpeter by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 12 months ago
Hi Steve, you could start here - https://www.hannants.co.uk/product/TU03710 They have a good selection of upgrade kits, including the wooden deck. Be prepared to lash out about £160 quid!! 😡 For the crew you could start here- http://www.ebay.co.uk/bhp/1-200-figures Happy hunting👍 I have the 1/350 version to convert, big enough for me at 30" 😉 and scale matches my Titanic, Bismarck, Ark Royal, USS Enterprise (The BIG E), Prince of Wales, HMS Daring (T45) and Illustrious (Ski ramp version). Cheers Doug 😎 PS Eduard do a 1:200 set of RN crew, ready painted 😉 PPS Model Dockyard list a deck only set for about 37 quid, BUT currently Out of Stock🤔 https://www.model-dockyard.com/cgi-bin/sh000001.pl?WD=hms%20... style='background-color:yellow;'>mk1%2dWooden_Deck_Packs_for_Kits%2ehtml#aMD20016

RAF Sea Plane Tenders by SelwynWilliams Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 year ago
http://rafboats.co.uk/st40 style='background-color:yellow;'>mk1.html excellent series of photos for tenders including the one RN Munich found for me ST480 at Lyme Regis

RE ads90's Vosper Firefloat by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 year ago
Hi ads Yes you are correct in that only the Mark2 was accepted by the RAF and were Nos 93 and 94. The Mk1 was the initial design but was not considered suitable for purpose hence the modification to the MK2. I do believe your model was built by a keen modeller who took or built a hull and placed his own top details based on the Crash Tender and similar designs from the period. I did find reference to Bridlington MCU and this corresponds with the number on your model https://www.pprune.org/archive/index.php/t-312866.html They were active in 1969 and used Pinnace which does rather tie in with the front wheelhouse of your model. I have a book somewhere that lists all the MCU details and when I find it I will see what I can find.