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BTW; I copied your above massive text block into a document file and split it up into paragraphs so I could see where you're at! My conclusion: so far so good BUT! You made the one classic mistake of many model boat / ship builders 🤔 You continued the prop shaft tube right back to the propeller and hence you had to make oversize struts to support them. This is fundamental wrong and creates unnecessary work.😉 On real ships, including the Schnellboote, the so called 'stuffing tube' is JUST THAT, it 'stuffs' the shaft through the hull and includes stuffing glands to prevent the ingress of sea water. Outside the hull ONLY the rotating shaft itself continues on through the bearing in the support strut and to the prop. See attached pics of my HMS Belfast as an example. There was actually no reason for you to make oversize strut bearings, simply bushes to match your prop SHAFT not the tube would have been correct. Inside the real ship there is also NO TUBE, only bearings at suitable intervals. They look like gigantic versions of the big ends in your car. Imagine on really big ships, carriers, container ships, bulk tankers etc, with shaft diameters of 1metre or so how big the 'tube' would be, how much weight that would add and how difficult it would be to service and maintain! I've often noticed in posts here that folk confuse shaft and tube, often referring to the whole assembly as 'the shaft'. For convenience we modellers use prop tubes, who wants to fiddle about making a row of internal shaft bearings no one will ever see and will most likely never be really concentric? The downside is that continuing this 'convenience' outside the hull is wrong, adds weight and detracts from the scale appearance of the model. 😭 OK, it's 3am here now so - orf me 'obby 'orse and up (in my case down!) the wooden stairs to Bedfordshire, G'night all, cheers, Doug😎 Re shaft length: What fits fits, what don't don't! Such a question is like asking 'How long is a piece of string?'! If all three motors abreast won't fit you have to decide if the central motor should / will fit fore or aft of the outer motors. Then measure / adjust the shaft length accordingly. Before you start fitting the centre motor check what length shafts are commercially available and adjust your motor fit to suit. Otherwise make your own shafts and tubes to fit as required, as I've started doing cos I got fed up with 'standard sizes' wot don' wanna fit my ship. 🤔 G'night All, cheers, Doug 😎
Proboat Alpha - ready to run, model of PBR, Patrol Boat Riverine, used by US Navy during Vietnam conflict, served 1967 -1972. Images show basic detail, 1/18 scale, with crew. Bow gunner servo is linked to rudder. Comes with Navlights, looking forward to a night sail.....some painting added to weather craft, as well as painting radar housing a lighter grey....and the canvas roof over wheel house....a little artistic licence with vessel numbers......Brown Navy did'nt always have numbered vessels....but could'nt help myself. Bravo Zulu Chaps😉
No Doug, you have quite the wrong idea about me. I would love to get a club going and have done all I could to do so including meeting the one only geezer who offered to have a cuppa in the local caff. We parted with him saying he'd tell those members of a distant club he went to that had water problems and would call me. Guess what? You know the rest. THAT's why my attitude is **** '**. I've had it constantly from model boaters. Little enclaves of mates who will NOT countenance new members (model railways clubs too as it happens, more old farts). What else should I say faced with that attitude. No, I am NOT a tolerant or patient man, that's for sure. Patience is just an excuse for wasting time. I have no idea what apps are available for 'phone control. I don't even have one. Whilst my kids have made an excellent job generally of raising my Grandchildren, they don't seem to know either what to do about the latest fad for Playstation and 'phone. But one things for sure, none of them show the slightest interest in making or doing anything and are part of the first generation to be absolutely bloody useless. I just hope the three of my 5 grandchildren who have common sense will do something with that, but I know damned well it won't be keeping modelmaking going or any other endeavour that requires real skill and application. These matters are of concern in all the hobbies I have any interest in. Old boats (yes Woodies and why not?), old aircraft, old bikes and old cars. As long as WE live, eh? Well that ain't gonna be that much longer in any kind of fit state to go the pond on a regular basis with heavy models. So actually we WILL be witnessing the death of all those groups I mention above and many more. From the care home windows, unless we're lucky enough to cop our clogs before that living death happens. When you hear "Can't be arsed" from the mouths of, effectively, babes, you know the craft world is in trouble. And I mean craft, not gluing bits of cut card together with Prit sticks under the banner of that foul word "crafting". I really couldn't give a **** if I was the only person left in the world making woodies. I do it for me only these days in the absence of any clubs. But I don't have to pretend to like all the other stuff. In another place are people who not only do sail, but specifically model barge racing and good on 'em. I don't ask that they do all the other stuff. And as far as I can see they don't. My comments about the future are based on my observations and chats with established long term members of those hobbies who all agree the end really is nigh. All those balding, grey haired, pot bellied, probably bearded old geezers standing around with stoops from their long knackered backs, all wondering whether this time next year they'll still have their Honda Jazz or a mobility scooter. If that's how it's all going, so be it. As you say we won't be here to witness the real death. And the more exciting aspects of the model hobby? There was a programme on tonight about modelmakers flying re-runs of Battle of Britain air battles with similar sized models, laser guns, damage smoke, etc. 2 youngish blokes, the rest, including the German contingent, older guys. Oh and a Tranny and I don't mean a transmitter! In 10 years time that programme will not be makeable. BTW the Tranny was by far the best pilot. Cheers, Martin
The boat was free but I gave a small donation to the club,(Darlington & District Model Boat Club). Started by removing all hardware, motor mounts, prop shaft, rudder, water-scoops and outlets. Next fill the holes I have made, remove some excess wood. roughly sand down hull. Foam bow area, and glue crack in deck. Find a lot of damage to the fibreglass hull, large chips out of the gel coat and associated stress fractures, and other spider web cracks. Drimmel all crack lines and open up chips and dents, then fill with a filler. an experimental mix of P38 and Araldite, hope it works. Start planning drive options I have a number of items that I have brought and not used that will be put in this boat, otherwise they may never find a home. last picture shows drive option to use up components.
No justice. I ended up buying a new shaft from ModelBoatBits for the very expensive price of £2.00. The damaged one was part of the running gear kit supplied by Deans for HMS Hood, which I bought at the same time. Sorry, I missed an m off the shaft. It should read 4mm. I'm sure your stuff will be ok.
Doug, I don't generally "do" foreign and Pete certainly wouldn't. As you say, most are model railway or strictly stick and string model ships. What we wanted to do was a general model hobby museum with a bias toward the RC hobbies. Ain't none of them. History of RC, RC cars, boats and aircraft. Materials, tools, etc. Mags and books, that kind of thing. Martin
The Aerokits P.T boat is a semi scale model based upon the Elco 80ft PT boat of WW2. The most famous of these being PT109 whose skipper was John F Kennedy who later became President of the U.S.A. Though the Aerokits version is semi scale there is scope for minor modifications to bring it up to scale. There is a lot of information around on the internet and articles in related magazines etc which will provide modelers with good guidelines for achieving this. Due to the size of the Aerokits version there is plenty of room in the hull both for a single motor version or a triple one, the latter bringing it up to true scale. Though there are manufacturers who produce replicas of Aerokits I have not seen one for the P.T Boat but with a bit of searching,😁😁 plans can be found. Boaty
Hi all, I don't know if anyone on here is interested. many may even be unaware, but there's a thing called 152VO. Scale 1:5.2 scale models of vintage outboard motor-powered kneeler hydros. It's been around since 2011 as far as I can make out. It is superbly organised with the ultimate point of competition of a friendly kind. VERY popular in Germany and The Netherlands. There are a few kits now available, loads of plans of real boats and a lot of very nice fittings and accesories. There a few outboard motors available which can be fitted with brushless motors if you prefer. The models have to fit a certain mathematical formula, to give choices, but remain reasonably well matched to make for driver skill being more important than money-ruled boats. Kind of the opposite of F1. If you need any help with imagining these things, here's a pic. of a MODEL pits. Right down to the floating moorings. I would SO like to see this take off in Britain. Here's their website. Iffy translation, OK, but pretty much understandable if you don't speak German or Dutch. https://152vo.de/ Cheers, Martin
Mike, to me scratch building is just that. You start with bugger all and end up with a model boat. If you start with a kit, you're kit building and if you have to modify it to correct it you're kit-bashing. All perfectly valid, especially if you are using scratchbuilding skills to make a good job of a kit, as I had to do when a client asked me to make up an Amati Riva kit. Biggest pile of crap I ever opened the lid on. Having already built two Rivas from a pile of plywood, a plank of pear and a set of stolen Riva works drawings I was able to kit-bash the garbage into something I could deliver, but never again! I wouldn't know how to share plans, but have em all here if you can inform me how. I have Gary Griswold plans...useful, but crap. You will be correcting the build as you go along, but it's no big deal, just time consuming and a bloody nuisance! I have also a pile (roll) of drawings from The Rudder magazine, an American publication from the 20s. These are of real craft, not models, but that's irrelevant, really, when sections are given. Cheers, Martin
Evening, Doug, or is it morning? Just had a well earned rest having had the family round for Fathers' Day. Now catching up with the pootah. BTW, I had a garden full of blue and purple Lupins till the big breeze blew 'em all down recently. My star was a plant I didn't knowingly sew and that was an amazing mixture on the same stems of purple alternating with yellow. Gorgeous. Anyway, Kakos. Yes I have quite a few and as I was given 2 original little Marinecraft hulls, I have earmarked two of my mint, new in red boxes Kakos for those with little AAA 3-at-a- time flat packs which even have switches. I wish we could still get Ever-Ready or Vidor batteries. Remember them? Can get scans though and my Sea Urchin has a styrene home made AA flat case ready for the daughter to print me out an Ever Ready bell flat pack, just like yours. The brass contacts aren't a problem for an old metal basher like me. Your Sea Scout looks nice and I would say at 24" it would be about 1/16th to 1/12th. 24 feet would be a reasonable size for a sport fisherman or inshore cruiser. But in 1/16th scale at 32 feet I would say the style of the model and the use of the boat would be best represented by that combo. Just looking at some info on the FlySky Tx I've got coming (it's already been posted) and find it uses no fewer than 8 AA cells...12volts! Ye Gods, why? OK, I can get two packs of NiMhs, but then that wouldn't be 12 volts, would it? It would be 9.6Volts. Would it even work? So, on further checking, I notice that several people have gone for the LiPo path, which means a 4s at a more acceptable 11.1Volts. Now I also see that a few have gone for the LiFe option, which I much prefer the sound of as they are a lower fire risk and keep a charge in storage for ages. But they would only be 9.9Volts as LiFe cells are 3.3 volts each. Would 9.9 volts be enough I wonder for a nominally 12 volt Tx. I'm assuming that if people with no objection to NiMhs have been using those for the rechargeability, then the Tx will, in fact, accept 9.6Volts. So, logically, a 9.9Volt LiFe would be OK, do you agree? I'm thinking down the line a bit after I'm used to it. My Imax magic blue box of chargery caters for LiFe cells too. Steering teddies, et al, yeah, I can come up with some mechanical magic. My nickname with little gent, Lothar, at Wolfsburg was Mekanist (spelling), as I was always making little mechanisms for VW and SEAT cars. I made a rolling TV monitor that replaced the passenger airbag in the Passat CM2, which also had headrest TVs for back seat passengers and a wireless internet laptop built in to the rear seat central arm rest. A palm computer could come out of the dash using a mechanism that I designed and made and for which VW got a patent, with me as nominated inventor! Never made me a penny extra of course, but it was nice to know. I did a static model of a 1/12th scale Riva where, if you turned the model Cadillac (yes it is, really!) steering wheel, the rudders moved via a worm and wheel steering box and two home made Universal joints! Gawd knows why. I just thought it might win me some column inches in Classic Boat....Nah! You might find that 6" figures are more available for 1/12th scale boats than 4 1/2" figures for 1/16th, but I have to find or even make some for my Crash Tender. I look out for dollies at boot fairs and Sunday markets. I got a very square jawed geezer, 12" tall for my 1/6th scale Darby One Design and he fits, thanks to bendy bits. On your sports fisherman you need some arrogant bastard to be standing with one arm up on the screen and just the one on the wheel. Think Audi driver in a boat. Up yer arse or in yer way, but always thinking the sun shines out of his primary orifice. Keep my socks dry? I was bought a pair of Granddad socks by the two little horrors today along with a chocolate Marmite pot and a Smurfs do Pop CD, which they insisted I play during the barbie! They've done the Smurf wind up since they were old enough to crawl because they know I despise the Dutch ghouls Right, bedtime I suppose. Compost and Busy Lizzies tomorrow, she tells me. Yes, Ramona, my love.... Cheers, Martin
Wow! Harbor Models is amazing! Their selection of kits & detail parts is outstanding. Thanks for letting me know about it. There are only a few hobby shops in my area. They all have at least a few R/C boats in stock but they’re mostly the racing type. There was an excellent store called Bliss Marine over a hundred miles away in Dedham, MA (near Boston) that stocked kits & parts in addition to parts & accessories for full-size fishing boats & yachts. They stocked the whole line of Billing Boats kits & fittings as well as several other brands. I used to buy from Bliss via mail order or by phone back in the pre-Internet era but their service was super fast. Every time we’d go down to the family cottage near Nantasket Beach in Hull, MA I always stopped at Bliss. I’d tell my wife I’d only be in the store for “a few minutes” but she knew my “few minutes” would almost always be at least an hour. Sadly, not only is Bliss Marine long gone but so is the Hull cottage. It was damaged beyond repair during hurricane Bob in 1991. The decision was made not to rebuild it & the lot it stood on was sold to a neighbor. Sigh. But I digress. Fortunately I found this fantastic website! Although I signed up just a short time ago I’ve read dozens of interesting posts & have received quick answers to my questions from other friendly Model Boats members. This site is a goldmine! Thanks for your fast, helpful reply! Pete
nothing has been ruined boatshed, as you know when we take on a new build that we like to be sure things are correct to the real boats and if we are to part with our hard earned money things need to be right in the first place and not need loads of work to put it right before you can start building. CB90 i'm guessing that your farther was the original build that was in the model boats magazines back in 1985, it was coming across this article that got me intrigued in these boats and have been researching ever since if you have any more info on your fathers builds that would be great. cheers Ron
I didn't have any look finding one Martin was going to build one myself at 1/12 . I managed to find some interesting reading on these boats and I'm waiting for a book to arrive from the Norfolk wherry museum. I purchased copy's of model boats mags January 1985 which has the build article of the wherry and October 1985 which has a article on upgrades and advice on the original build. I found the book "wherries and waterways" by Robert malster a interesting read. Ron
The Chesapeake Bay Maritime Museum moved their Model Boat Expo back to May and I'm getting Constellation ready to sail. It's a tradition now that I have some progress to show each time she sails, so this time I want to set the courses. Since her last sail the aft bulwark was added and new winch drums made, and a wedge added to the cart to keep her from sliding back. Putting her on and off her ballast was a pain by myself, so I ground off the threads on the rods for about a centimeter so they act like pins and hold the boat in place while I thread in the other rod. That little hack was much simpler than figuring out some sort of cradle to fit on the cart. I looked at all sorts of ways to control the courses, and the simplest method was sort of a yard at the bottom, but one that wasn't obvious. I used a length of vinyl coated clothes hanger and sew pocket onto the clews on the backside of the sails. In the center of the foot, I sewed a sleeve. The rod goes through the sleeve and onto the pockets. If I need to reduce sail, I can easily pull out the rods and bunt up the sail. I also figured I'll set the two gaff-headed Spencer sails. So far I sewed hoops on the forward one. Their a line on it to brail it up if I need to lose it. The t'gallants and royals will get hooks on the halyards, and some sort of easy release on their sheets, so I can take them off, yard and all, if it's too windy. If need be, I should be able to brail up the spencers, bunt up the courses, and remove the t'gallants and royals all in just a few minutes, and have her down to just tops'ls, spanker, and jibs. If THAT's too much sail, well, then it's just too windy to sail. Hopefully I'll get to sail her with all 17 sails set! The other bit of "progress" for this sail will be to use both winches. Previously I used one winch to control the main corse yard, and the fore and mizzen were slaved to it. Last time I controlled the fore tops'l yard and slaved the main and mizzen to the fore. This time the main and mizzen tops'l yard will be controlled together on their own winch, and the fore tops'l yard will be controlled separately on it's own winch. This way, when I come-about or tack, I can back the fore against the wind to push the bow across. So, I was looking at images of the real ship to refresh my memory of how the main and mizzen brace were led when I noticed the main tops'l brace was anchored in the rig in one place when sail was set, and another place without sails. Looking around I found there was some sort of ring or band that slide up and down the mizzen topmast pushed by the tops'l yard parrel when it was raised and lowered to set or take in sail. I'd never noticed that sort of thing before, but looking at images of ship contemporary to Constellation, I found it was actually pretty common place, and I even saw it done on a few British ships of the 1850's and later. Always learning something new.