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Range Safety Launch? by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 10 days ago
Hi Canabus, #382 may well have been what you say! But this model has obviously been built as a THORNYCROFT 43ft RANGE SAFETY LAUNCH. The cabin structure and fittings are totally different. For me the 'give-aways' were the three side windows and the foreward bulge on the cabin. I had wondered about the number on the model from the outset. http://www.rafboats.co.uk/rsl43.html Pics show one example FoC #1640. On the above url you can see several more. Pic 7 is a MK1 40 foot Firefloat #55. Last 3 pics are 40foot MK1 Seaplane Tenders, #377 in a sad n sorry state😲 but apparently about to undergo restoration? Cheers, Doug 😎 PS: Attached also a pic of Firefloat #90, a MK1A. She was converted to a Seaplane Tender #467 in November 1949. FF91 was converted to ST382 in Feb 1950.

Martin's Taycol Conversion Boards by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 16 days ago
Trip to Kings Lynn Models for spruce, solar butterflies positioned near the clematis, bird bath light repaired, (I hope), doggy paddling pool filled, shelf replaced in shed, step attached to 152VO Spitfire hull, plans for 20s/30s runabouts and speedboats listed and re-rolled (thanks Owen). Not a bad set of chores sorted by only 3 o clock. But now just too bloomin' 'ot to be outside again. We had three days of cooler weather and showers, but I'm back to watering the whole garden again tonight. Cheers, Martin

Ellesmere Port Model Boat Club by epmbcmember Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 2 months ago
Until last year we hosted the March Model Boat Show at the Ellesmere Port Boat Museum, but dwindling space and the Museum,s lack of proper support with regard to advertising, sadly caused us to not go ahead with it this year. We are planning, however, to have a Model Show in May 2019 at our new venue. Hopefully many of the traders will support this, watch this space!!!!

Council madness... by epmbcmember Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 2 months ago
I regularly visit the Richmond Model Boat Club in Glasgow where there are many swans, coots, ducks and other water fowl on the water but the council provide a very nice, substantial club house for the model boat Club and have regular shows at the venue as well as regular weekly sailing. Urchfont Council must be made up of really stupid people who are control freaks.

Northern Model Boat Show Doncaster 2018 by mturpin013 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Really good show plenty of clubs and trade stands,

Northern Model Boat Show Doncaster 2018 by T33CNO Apprentice   Posted: 2 months ago
My first time to this show. Found it very worthwhile and unlike the engineering show at the racecourse the food is great and value for money. Certainly go again, well done CADMA

Northern Model Boat Show Doncaster 2018 by AndyG009 Lieutenant   Posted: 2 months ago
Well I went to the Model Boat Show at Doncaster. Had many interesting discussions. One comment - could people on club stands please be told by their club when it meets and how to get in touch. Good selection of Trade Stands - nice to see items. Now when I decide what I want, I am much happier to order now I know what they look like. Nice range of models - all shapes and sizes.

H.M.S BRAVE BORDERER by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
Evenin' Rowen, So far so good, nice job👍 Let me go through your comments one by one😉 1) "Moved the battery towards the stern and, at speed, the forefoot lifts slightly clear of the water. The plane is now almost flat. The battery is not well positioned when near the bow." Battery in the bow is almost always bad news🤔 too much weight forward of the CoG or natural balance point when planing. 2) "The 2S battery used was a 4000mAh 30C; suspect this battery does not have the capacity to operate the model. Every motor will run up smoothly until a second one is operated. The first motor then “stutters” and a fuse might blow, this could be indicative of a power surge. Any comments from the electronic experts among the group would be appreciated." First the battery: you may be right. Especially with 3 x4500 kV motors Since you are using 3 ESCs how about feeding each one from a slightly smaller (lower weight) battery? Precondition of course is that all three are equally charged to the same voltage and capacity AND have the same (or very very similar) internal resistance! Complicates the issue of course and motors with a lower kV rating and one power source may well be the better solution😉 Second the 'stutter': How and when did you switch in the second motor? If the first was still at 'Full Ahead', i.e. 'Pedal to the metal!, I might expect the battery voltage to dip and then recover with the sudden additional load and a sharp rise in total current drawn. But no particular excuse for a sudden current rise in the first motor ! Where was the fuse that blew? I suspect in the primary supply lead from the single battery🤓 since with brushless motors you can't fit individual fuse in their supply leads like you can with a brushed motor. BUT you can to the ESCs feeding them!!! You can't get a power surge from a battery, not like a surge on the mains network due to lightning etc! But you can get a voltage dip and recovery if you suddenly present it with an additional load😲 3) "The 3S battery was 10,500mAh and 40C; with this battery all three motors can be run at full speed together and fuses do not blow. It was also very heavy at 1700g, holding the model down." All run up together to full speed or 'switched in' as described above? There's a big difference between a gradual increasing of load on a power source and a sudden step increase! 4) "The motors are 4500 kV. On refection, think a slower motor around, perhaps 2000 kV would have been a better choice." I did think at the outset that 3 x 4500kV was perhaps a little ambitious😲 2000 - 2500 sounds much better, and more controllable👍 Then you could also get good performance results with a single battery of capacity lower and weight 👍 The function of the third (centre) motor for 'action speed' would also be more pronounced👍 5) "Would concur with comments by others that a simple single or two bladed propeller layout for this model is probably best - that is unless you want to capture the true scale layout. The centre propeller seems to have little effect on overall performance, (see above re 4500kV motors- Doug😉) although it will power the model quite nicely when operating by itself. Have had several suggestions about how best to use the centre propeller. Will think about them and decide later how to do this when I start to finish the model." As a 'Scale Purist' (as far as my skills and tools allow!) personally I would frown on the use of 2 blade props, much less only a single prop. Do that in a fictitious power boat if you will, but for 'Brave Borderer' ? 😡 Do her justice please😉 Many three screw (😲) boats (including the full size originals of this era) only used the third motor for additional manoeuvring speed in action situations. My personal experience of FACs (Fast Attack Craft) and FPBs (Fast Patrol Boats) over the last three decades shows me that the three screw configuration has been largely dropped, especially since the introduction of much more powerful engines such as improved diesels and gas turbines. Many use a combination of diesel, for cruising, and gas turbine for 'action speed', so called CODAG, COmbined Diesel And Gas turbine. 6) "The 2 blade Hi – speed propellers both increased performance and current draw. The model is more than fast enough with the original scale layout." As I believe the 2 blade props were of larger diameter (and perhaps also of larger pitch) than the 3 bladers the higher current draw is a logical conclusion! Stick with the scale config! 👍👍👍 7) "Will purchase a lighter, 3 S battery as that seems the best choice for performance and weight." 👍 but don't overdo it to the other extreme by reducing weight and therefore capacity too much😲 You want a decent sailing time don't you? 8) "Testing using the bare hull with a minimum of detail worked well. For a models with a complex power train, this is a good approach as access to the internals can be gained easily. Nothing worse that finishing a boat carefully just to find the performance disappointing. Then having to to rip it apart to make major modifications or adjustments!" Heartily agree 👍👍👍 Bon chance mon ami😊

Sea Queen by GARTH Captain   Posted: 3 months ago
On Sunday our model boat club did a show at Hamilton's Steam Museum . Kind of hard running model & recording video at the same time but I managed to not run into any ones boat .

It's a sad day!. by stormin Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 3 months ago
Coronation Park in Crosby, a very very popular venue for all types of model boats back in the 50s and before, hosted tethered hydroplane racing (as Martin has just stated) that was a crowd puller and the old guys in those days had some balls to run them, as I remember there was a bad accident late 50s and it was all over for them. Still going as a model boat club to this day although re-formed several years ago. Martin, yes I will put some pics up as soon as my grandchildren show me how to🤔, you see I may be able to bring a 1950s boat into the 21st century but that doesn't mean I can use a computer as I should😉. Norman. Small foot note guys, steam also is discouraged if not banned by some model boat clubs now because of the pressurised boiler risk, yes I know health and safety gone mad.

Getting ready by Jerry Todd Captain   Posted: 4 months ago
The Chesapeake Bay Maritime Museum moved their Model Boat Expo back to May and I'm getting Constellation ready to sail. It's a tradition now that I have some progress to show each time she sails, so this time I want to set the courses. Since her last sail the aft bulwark was added and new winch drums made, and a wedge added to the cart to keep her from sliding back. Putting her on and off her ballast was a pain by myself, so I ground off the threads on the rods for about a centimeter so they act like pins and hold the boat in place while I thread in the other rod. That little hack was much simpler than figuring out some sort of cradle to fit on the cart. I looked at all sorts of ways to control the courses, and the simplest method was sort of a yard at the bottom, but one that wasn't obvious. I used a length of vinyl coated clothes hanger and sew pocket onto the clews on the backside of the sails. In the center of the foot, I sewed a sleeve. The rod goes through the sleeve and onto the pockets. If I need to reduce sail, I can easily pull out the rods and bunt up the sail. I also figured I'll set the two gaff-headed Spencer sails. So far I sewed hoops on the forward one. Their a line on it to brail it up if I need to lose it. The t'gallants and royals will get hooks on the halyards, and some sort of easy release on their sheets, so I can take them off, yard and all, if it's too windy. If need be, I should be able to brail up the spencers, bunt up the courses, and remove the t'gallants and royals all in just a few minutes, and have her down to just tops'ls, spanker, and jibs. If THAT's too much sail, well, then it's just too windy to sail. Hopefully I'll get to sail her with all 17 sails set! The other bit of "progress" for this sail will be to use both winches. Previously I used one winch to control the main corse yard, and the fore and mizzen were slaved to it. Last time I controlled the fore tops'l yard and slaved the main and mizzen to the fore. This time the main and mizzen tops'l yard will be controlled together on their own winch, and the fore tops'l yard will be controlled separately on it's own winch. This way, when I come-about or tack, I can back the fore against the wind to push the bow across. So, I was looking at images of the real ship to refresh my memory of how the main and mizzen brace were led when I noticed the main tops'l brace was anchored in the rig in one place when sail was set, and another place without sails. Looking around I found there was some sort of ring or band that slide up and down the mizzen topmast pushed by the tops'l yard parrel when it was raised and lowered to set or take in sail. I'd never noticed that sort of thing before, but looking at images of ship contemporary to Constellation, I found it was actually pretty common place, and I even saw it done on a few British ships of the 1850's and later. Always learning something new.

Northern Model Boat Show Doncaster 2018 by mturpin013 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 months ago
Not sure why its done this, it show correct in the calendar as I typed it in but it is 2nd and 3rd but can't seem to alter it

Northern Model Boat Show Doncaster 2018 by dragon Captain   Posted: 4 months ago
Maybe your dates are a bit out cheers

Northern Model Boat Show Doncaster 2018 by mturpin013 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 months ago
Hosted By CADMA Adults £5 Children under 16 £2

1-35 scale S100 schennllboot blog by teejay Lieutenant   Posted: 5 months ago
Hi all this is my first blog, last year I post my intention to do a project about an RAF D boat that my Father served on and as a precursor to that build That I was going to do this S/E boat as the hull design is shared buy both, and as plastic kit modeller the kit great the first stage was to put together the decks and superstructure as normal, with the exception of all the bits that would be easily broken as most kit aircraft modellers aerials and guns tend to brake ,so long ago I got into the habit of making these out brass rod or bar using a mini drill and a set of needle files, holding the drill in my left hand and the files in my right, when started this I saw the number of stanches I needed so I came across this little beauty a mini bead lathe it is a great bit of kit and not expensive less than £50 and plenty of types and accessories available so all the stanches aerials hand rails, gun rails, horn, and some of the components for the rudder and tiller were made on this lathe. so good time being had in my first radio control boat . the next post will show all the parts for the rudder/tiller setup