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>> Home > Tags > model boats

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34" sea commander Aerokits kit by boaty Commander   Posted: 16 hours ago
Hi Garth, I have my second Sea Commander which I still use , but the first one I sold 13 years ago. I never actually built a Sea Commander but the one I have now and the previous model I picked up cheap and restored them. You do get things like this that come up on Ebay occasionally and though restoration appears sometimes to be challenging I find a lot of satisfaction when the work is completed. My first Sea Commander I found underneath a table on a stall in Ellesmere Port Market and it was about to be binned. The stall holder was glad to accept five pounds for it and it turned out that the hull was quite solid and all I had to do was to make the cabin roof, sand it all down, paint it then fit the motor and radio. I hope you get your Sea Commander, they are lovely boats from yesteryear and even a new build is very rewarding. Boaty😊

Sea Queen refurbishment by BOATSHED Commander   Posted: 2 days ago
I have been on holiday for the last couple of weeks and only just seen this. I am so sorry to hear about you situation. Hope you get it all sorted out soon. I have so much model stuff in my shed, Brick built. I have the insurance company cover it for £5k. Even then I don't know it that would cover it as it also contains a mega amount of fishing tackle. That alone must be over half of the amount and with about 20 model boats and heaps of radio gear I wouldn't think it would cover half of the shed contents. Good luck I hope you get sorted soon. Insurance companies can be a bit crappy at times.

34" sea commander Aerokits kit by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 days ago
Hi garth, Cornwall Model Boats advertise one http://www.cornwall style='background-color:yellow;'>modelboats.co.uk/acatalog/aerokits-sea-commander.html They have an excellent reputation for delivery, service and technical help 👍👍👍 Go there! or here- https://www.howesmodels.co.uk/product/Aerokits%20Sea%20Comma... Howes might be cheaper !? Cheers Doug

34" sea commander Aerokits kit by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 days ago
Hi Garth, If you mean Westbourne Models DON'T TOUCH 'EM WITH A 10FOOT BARGE POLE! Every model boat web site is full of long running threads about order taken, money paid and nothing delivered and no contact or just bullshit excuses! Also here - https://model-boats.com/forum/hobby-chit-chat/9463 better look somewhere else 🤔 Cheers Doug 😎

Perkasa MTB by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 7 days ago
Baking soda triggered some old memories, who else remembers the little plastic subs we used to get in Cornflakes boxes? 😉 I once toyed with the idea of making a bigger version, ca 10 -12 ". more important 'stuff' got in the way. Forgot all about it .... until now 😉 Yep, off the bat I could imagine a couple of ways of triggering them; there are loads of mini pressure switches on the market, or a simple diaphragm at one end of the can coupled to a micro switch or mechanical trigger. Adjustment would be very sensitive due to relatively small changes in water pressure in the first foot or so of wet stuff. Any deeper would be a waste of time, unless you only want to entertain the fish😲 Might also go off on the surface if the can hit the water diaphragm first😡 Whatever, lot of work (and expense?) for a one way trip🤔 Anyway, with my 1/72 scale DCs, approx. 12x5mm, I would need to resort to nano technology. But we should never stop dreaming! I've seen model patrol boats launching solid fuel missiles from the stern deck so 'Nothing is impossible' - that's maybe why I drive a Toyota😉 Cheers Doug 😎

Red Cat hydroplane by SimpleSailor Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 8 days ago
Hi. It is a scale model of a Formulaboats.com sponsord jet turbine powered hydroplane. I think this livery was from 2009. They can be seen racing on Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A4HPB4PtT0k .As for the burning out motors that is sorted. Nothing to do with my cooling system but the unit I had from Hobby King seems to have a number of complaints about them burning out. So replaced it with a different model. HK have been very good and replaced all 3 failures. I will keep the latest replacement for another boat.

Crash Tender Shaft Tube Poistion by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 10 days ago
Hi neil Good to see your are progressing. It's good to see that Paul has joined in the discussion and offered help.👍 He has a superb model at the larger scale and has been an avid supporter of Fireboats and the site since its inception. With this small model it is important to keep the weight to a minimum and whilst sealing holes with glue and filler is OK, I would go easy with soaking the wood in epoxy, it's heavy. Far better to cover with a sheet of tissue/glass cloth and apply a thin coat spread with a plastic (credit Card size) spatula to work well into the covering. It would be good to see a few pics of your whole model. Say two side views, a top view and a stern view. If you can weigh that would also be useful. Might help when you need further advice on the build Cheers Dave

Display stand and transport case. by robbob Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 11 days ago
In preparation for the first public showing of my boat I have made a new display stand that looks a bit prettier than the first one I made. It’s designed to be more in proportion to the boat and to give a better view of the hull and I have included some model-boats.com stickers that are available in the site shop and also some Vintage Model Works logos kindly supplied by Mike Cummings at VMW 👍 As a finishing touch I have ordered an engraved brass plate giving some details of the original craft. I also found a wheeled flight case on eBay that the boat fits into perfectly without any adjustment to the existing foamed interior but I will have to re-make the mast to allow it to fold down for safety, not bad for £50 😁 The new stand fits into the base of the flight case but the boat also sits on some foam blocks for added support.

Added extras by Skydive130 Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 11 days ago
Here are some shots of the main plan and the proposed electronics going into my Solent. My only issue is whether my choice of motors is suitable? I've gone with 2 x 600 brushed motors on 15 inch shafts and 45mm brass props which I purchased before reading the article in Septembers model boats mag. The author in that has gone with 2 x 850's? With my aircraft experience, it's strange going "backwards" with brushed motors instead of the aircraft industry standard of using brushless motors, esc's and lipo battery's! And to cap it all, I've not go any aircraft that could possibly drag let alone lift the 12v 7amp lead acid battery that I've bought for this boat! Any thoughts on motor choice would be appreciated, apart from that I'm good with the electrics. The Mtroniks sound board and speaker is a blast using the Napier diesel sound chip. Another shot shows some of the decor going on, i.e. RNLI decals, numbering for "Douglas Currie", portholes, anchor, handrail stanchions. Other decor, doors, bollards etc coming from Macs soon. Last show shows the finished working radar built from scrap and painted in VW brilliant orange which I believe is a recognised match. One last question, can someone please give me an approx size for the 3mm main deck stanchions which I will fashion from brass tube and soldered eyelets, rope thickness would be helpful too, many thanks

Aerokits Solent Class Lifeboat by jarvo Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 11 days ago
Hi Skydive, welcome to the forum and the world of model boats, the saving grace of boats is they rarely crash and if the worst happens they are usually easy to recover, like your choice of model, the solent has been a popular model for many years, and with a little skill makes a sweet model. Carefull with the dining room table, war will breakout quickly. Your have made a great start with the keel, bow and stern section, are you looking to plank the hull or use the patterns for the ply panels? Regards Mark

Aerokits Solent Class Lifeboat by Skydive130 Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 11 days ago
I am a modeller of 45 years experience, mostly with RC aircraft but have recently got into boats. Have completed the aeronaut Diva and spitfire to a high standard but needed a challenge So, having spent a long time trying to source an un-started Aerokits Solent, I bit the bullet and bought a set of plans and templates from eBay. Overall the plans are good, the templates need some adjusting as we go for acuaracy. Have spent the last couple of weeks perusing the plans and sourcing the materials needed. A visit to the Balsa Cabin in Maldon, Essex provided all the ply and the internet has provided the main components I.e motors, props, shafts, ESC, battery, soundboard/speaker, servo mostly sourced from Cornwall model boats and Howes Models septembers issue of "model boats" had a great article on a refurb which has been very useful for hints n tips on required electrics and the little extras needed to complete. I do have a workshop where the model will spend most of its time, however my wife's conservatory has been invaluable for using my eBay sourced scroll saw to cut out the formers! The sheet of 6mm ply from balsa cabin was long enough to make keel formers 1 & 2 one piece! I shall post a more detailed update when I get my computer back from repair Monday!

Individual Insurance by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 13 days ago
Most model boat clubs offer insurance as part of the membership fee. My own club is no exception and we introduced this benefit to protect all our members in the event of an accident resulting in a claim for 3rd party damages. Previously we had relied on members arranging their own insurance, but it became increasingly difficult to ensure that every member's insurance was current and up to date as it had been taken out at different times. I agree generally model boats are less likely to give rise to a claim as compared to a flying model or even a model car as they are sailing in water and therefore not near the general public. However accident can and do happen and the club and all its members may be held responsible so Club insurance is really important. We live in a society where it is common practice to blame someone else for our own actions and organised clubs and societies make easy targets. I suspect the biggest risk is when the models are on the bank or at a display where masts and other sharp bits can cause injury. Insurance cost is based on the risks and probability. The larger the user base the more spread the risk and the cost. I suspect there are insufficient model boaters so insurers prefer to offer cover for all modelling risks. I do believe MPBA have a country members scheme that may suit your purpose, however it works out at twice the cost my club charges members for insurance. Sail safely Dave

new brighton model boat lake by lindowbunny Seaman   Posted: 21 days ago
Hi, New Brighton lake is a great venue, very easy access, I live in North wales and Rhyl council allow model boats on the marine lake as long as there are no water skiers using it , it is salt water though and huge, if you break down you would need a rescue boat Real or R C. Eirias park Colwyn Bay has an excellent model boat lake open to the public.👍

Crash Tender Shaft Tube Poistion by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 22 days ago
Hi Neil, yes, very similar. Could be regarded to as a first step before applying Eze-Kote to give it a harder, knock and almost everything else resistant surface. Hammerite then sticks to it like the proverbial to the blanket and you have a super clean 'engine compartment' dead easy to keep clean. 😊 80 quid for a brushless !!! Do you want it gold plated or what? My Propdrive 2830 cost less than 20 knicker from Hobbyking and was delivered almost before I ordered it! Just make sure it comes from the UK or EU (still!?🤔) warehouse and not USA or Global. otherwise you might get stuck for import tax 😡 For the motor mount / shaft alignment: no one said it was easy, but Nothing's Impossible', maybe that's why I drive Toyota!!😁 back end is determined by the diameter of the prop you want to fit, which in the case of brushless motor should be roughly the same diameter as the brushless (outrunner). In my case 28mm motor and 30mm prop. This defines how far you can lift the aft end of the shaft, leave at least 1cm between the prop tip and the hull! This reduces unwanted interaction between the vortex from the prop and the lamina flow along the hull, result; more forward thrust and better rudder effect. (Didn't spend 30 odd years talking to shipyards for nowt😉) If you have plan (or at least a sketch - take some measurements if you don't have one of these and make a sketch) of the keel and existing motor mount; project back from the newly determined exit point of the shaft. Check how far forward you need to go to be able to comfortably fit the motor mount with good alignment and purchase a shaft of appropriate length. Cut a wood block to fit around the keel as the basic mount and 'fiddle' with it until your motor and mounting (e.g. the Robbe / Romarin 400 mount) aligns with the shaft line. Alignment is checked by running the motor at a fixed low speed with an ammeter showing the current it draws. Shim the motor mount up / down, and shift slowly from side to side until the current reading is a minimum. Then glue and screw everything in place quick before anything moves! Takes almost longer to describe than to do😉 The coupling type shown in my photo is called a 'Steg' coupling here in Germany (don't know the English🤔) and available from Krick Modellbau, for various motor shaft / prop shaft diameters, here the link to their English page- http://www.krickshop.de/?shop=krick_e Part number for the 3.17mm (1/8") to 4.0mm version I used is 63902. part number for the motor mount I used for my 28mm brushless is 42117. Advantages (to me at least!) they are not as long as the traditional UJ and Cardan types, they are resilient but don't flop about like the UJ types so are much easier to fit and align. Cos they are shorter you can use 'em for mountings in confined spaces. And they don't make no noise!! 😉 One final tip (may not be so useful on hard plywood built boats!). When I had this problem with my destroyer I sharpened the end of an 8mm alu tube (same as the shaft tube dia) and used it to bore back from the hull exit to the last bulkhead before the motor mounts. the bulkheads though were 1/4" balsa! Nice and soft man 😉 Hope this helps more than confuses, but it all worked for me! Cheers and happy fiddling, Doug 😎

Crash Tender Shaft Tube Poistion by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 23 days ago
Hi Doug and Neil Fascinating details about full size props and distances. Our scaled models sail in water which is not scaled so I am not convinced the maths helps. There are many examples of Fireboats on this site and as has often been mentioned the original Aerokits were designed when IC engines were the fashion and as a result the prop shafts were at a very acute angle to accommodate the fitting of the engine. If you have an original kit model the easiest solution is to remove all the engine mounts and any oil soaked wood from the hull together with the prop shaft and tube. You can then buy a suitable motor and prop and work out the best alignment. Buy a prop shaft and tube to suit the distance and adjust the slot in the keel to allow fitment. I usually make the slot big enough to allow for alignment, you can repair any gaps later. I usually tack mine in place with small dabs of superglue to hold in place, not too much as you may need to reposition. Once all aligned you can fill the gaps as Doug says with balsa. I just use Plastic Padding car body filler, but either will work. Once all is set hard you can fettle to the keel / hull shape and make good inside the hull. Not sure which model size you have but am attaching pics of my 34" Crash tender which may help. Happy restoration Dave