Lucky I've still got my old Bohler, paid £19-99 for it in 1998. Used on many projects including 4 real boats that my dad renovated in the last few years of his life. So far it has had about 200 hours of use and never let me down. I have replaced the brushes once so far but have 2 more sets just in case. 2 years ago I bought 50 sets of discs from a model shop that was closing, the entire stock, but am down to last 2 sets. So hopefully a new supplier shortly if shipping costs and import taxes not too high. Cheers Colin.
Oh... I wish I had all that info on the mysterious 'Ministry' book ! The illustrations you see were supplied to me by the wonderful chaps at 'Vintage Model Workshop', not sure where they got them from but that's all they have too. Rob.
Hi fryer Krick Modelltechnik bought out Robbe and rebranded their boat stuff as 'roMarin' - "The ship model division of Robbe Modellsport has been owned by Krick Modelltechnik since summer 2015. The former Robbe products will be marketed from 2016 under the brand "romarin by krick"." Düsseldorf (or Duesseldorf!) currently listed as 'Not in stock/Currently not available', 'Delivery time: On request'. €249 approx 200quid + shipping. http://www.krickshop.de/Products/RC-Models/RC-Shipmodels/Due... You might find one on Fleabay in the meantime. Krick Viel Spaß damit, 😎Doug
Hi Graham and Haig The max current is the Max Watts divided by the Battery Voltage. Most motors reach their max efficiency at much lower value, typically about 77%. You need to take care when interpreting the data especially when the description has been translated from a foreign language. The Eco range of motors were developed for model boats and in general were high tork, low revving and low current. They were also designed to work at lower voltages so that would explain the lower Wattage. I would only use the nominal voltage, Kv and max Watts figures. The amps appears to be the stall current but I am guessing. Also we don't know the voltage at which the stall current was measured. Providing you don't exceed the rated voltage and wattage your motor should be OK. I suspect running much above half the rated wattage may require some water cooling. There are many Wattmeters available that will measure the wattage, amps etc at reasonable prices and if you connect in line with your battery and ESC whilst holding the model in the water you will have a good indication of the max current / watts at full bore. This should be ideally about half the max rating (watts & amps) for both the motor and ESC. https://www.componentshop.co.uk/150a-watt-meter-and-power-an... Reducing the prop size will reduce the load.
Hi Mark, all good stuff, as ever from you👍 Just one thing; Prop Shop has ceased production after the fire they had. Probably only still trading until rest stock is sold and the business then wound up. 🤔 So I would go straight to Raboesch http://raboeschmodels.com/index.php/en/ (or Krick here in Germany) for cast props and suitable matched shafts. You can download the whole catalogue from their site to browse at your leisure 😉 This is the announcement on the Prop Shop site Cheers Doug 😎 http://www.prop-shop.co.uk/ "Welcome to the Prop Shop web site. AS YOU ARE PROBABLY AWARE A FIRE IN APRIL 2017 SERIOUSLY DAMAGED OUR PRODUCTION FACILITIES. SINCE THEN WE HAVE BEEN NEGOTIATING OUR CLAIM WITH OUR INSURANCE COMPANY. JUST BEFORE CHRISTMAS A SETTLEMENT WAS REACHED. REGRETTABLY THE AMOUNT WE HAVE BEEN PAID IS NOT SUFFICIENT TO ENABLE US TO FULLY RE-ESTABLISH OUR PRODUCTION CAPABILITY. WE MUST ADVISE THEREFORE THAT THE DECISION HAS NOW BEEN TAKEN FOR "PROPSHOP" TO CEASE TRADING. WE WANT TO THANK ALL OUR LOYAL CUSTOMERS FOR THEIR SUPPORT OVER MANY YEARS AND SINCERELY HOPE YOU FIND SUITABLE ALTERNATIVE PRODUCTS THAT MEET YOUR NEED. REGARDS, PROPS SHOP TEAM January 2018" 🤔
Peter, Had a look at the Raboesch site, the prop i looked at was the Metric 162 - 17, 40mm dia. As you are looking at a 42mm motor, this should give more than enough grunt. What make of motor are you looking at??? my 46" Crash Tender has twin motors, with 45mm dia props, the motors are from Airtec, a Yorkshire model shop, might be worth a look at their site Mark
Oh Jeez! What have you started?😉 Just found a Dynam Cat version 2 in USAF livery in a German model shop and ordered one!!!!!!! What are the essential mods you mention? Mods to the elevator or aileron horns ? Saw a YouTube on this!! How do you fancy a trip to Munich to teach me how to fly it????😉 Long time since I flew anything (except a Victor tanker simulator at RAF Marham!!) It's future operating base will be the Ostpark lake in Munich, pics attached. Complete with Biergarten 😉 Thanks again for the info Paul, cheers Doug 😎
Laser cut kit from Barracuda RC Boats, N Carolina, USA. Baltic birch plywood false keel, ribs/frames, hull sheathing, deck and cabins. No formal plans; I was able to source a handful of B&W archival photos from the USCG website. Fortunately I was able to procure a motherload of archival photos and a few hard to read layout drawings from Mr. Timothy Dring, LCDR, USN (Ret.). He is co-author of "American Coastal Rescue Craft", which is the "bible" if you will, of such. I do sometimes thank the internet. I am certain that without his assistance, my efforts on this wouldn't have been as enjoyable. The kit was also void of fittings, which I was aware of prior to purchase, so I invested in a 3D printer. That I've used to a limited degree, due to searching for parts in the correct file format is mind-numbing! I have globally sourced fittings; USA, UK, ASIA. As a matter of fact, the searchlights I got from this Model Boat Shop were 3D printed, and I was able to fit 5mm LEDs into them. I'd like to get a couple more and put some superbright 12v LED drone lamps in them for use on my 35" towboat. Many deck fittings are handmade when possible, the cleats and fairleads are from Cornwall Boats, UK. (Very reasonable & diverse source, if you didn't already know.) I try to keep wood natural when detail allows it, as I never have enjoyed painting over natural grain. Her decks are covered with 1/16" scribed basswood sheathing from earthandtree.com, which is normally used for wainscoting dollhouse walls. All my boats that have wood decks are covered with scribed sheathing; I feel it makes 'em look "sexy". Believe it or not, the idea for wainscoting came from finding 3/16" at Hobby Lobby's dollhouse department. A couple of feet x 3.5" was about $16, so I found a less expensive source that also had more selections (earthandtree.com) The rail stanchions are 3/16" square dowels with 2 corners rounded over on the Dremel router table. Leaving their base square, I fit a square peg into a round hole with no glue to facilitate removal, and also for ease of replacing broken ones, which is inevitable. The rail is 1/16" brass rod that also is readily removable. The stern rail is stationary on the lower half, and the chain & wire stanchions are removable for towing ops. The deck coamings and knuckle are African mahogany strips, other mahogany accents came from leftovers of a prior build. I also try on all my boats, to incorporate vintage leftover scribed sheathing salvaged from my late Father's builds, so I know he's got a part in my builds. Note-the raised deck section between the aft ladder trunk and towing bit is actually a laminated deckhouse he made for the Frigate Essex. Unfortunately, he was unable to build that kit due to Alzheimer's disease in his latter years. (I blame that mostly on the hazardous fumes from the airplane "dope" & glue he used when building RC planes in the 60s & 70s.) I use polyurethane instead of resin due to COPD, 37 yrs of smoking, I quit 2.5 yrs ago. The driveline consists of: 775 Johnson DC main (3500 RPM@12V), Harbor Models 4mm x 14" shaft w/brass stuffing box, Raboesch 75mm 5-blade brass wheel (not OEM), 5mm U-joint couplers, Dimart 320A fan-cooled ESC. Handmade wooden teardrop rudder on a 3/8" sternpost, 1/4" tiller arm steered by a Halcion sail winch servo and cable system. Flysky 6 channel. The nav lights and other illumination are Lighthouse 9v LEDs, also a GoolRC Receiver controlled flashing blue Law Enforcement light. Obviously, I put the cart before the horse and completed the topsides and below deck before finishing the outer hull, but the Wx and season change dictated such. Can't wait for Spring!
Just a small introduction, I am a retired engineer, trained as a toolmaker and practiced this in various forms for 20 plus years before going into Lecturing in engineering for 13 years then finally working on development of NVQs and VRQs for an Engineering Awarding Body. As far as My model making experience I did a little as a youngster helping my dad to build the 36 inch Crash tender and then doing some model aircraft but that was 50 years ago. I then became hooked on building a kit car which has occupied me for many years changing things and maintaining it as a recreational vehicle. This brings me up to date and instead of restoring a classic car I decided to get back to model making and this is the start of the 46 Crash Tender. So here we go Out of the box and the contents checked off, a minor anomaly on the parts numbering but soon sorted by VMW. I have spent some time in kitting out a new work station in what used to be my office until I retired. I now have two workshops one upstairs and one in the basement. How good is that? One of the of the first things was to construct a substantial building board that would give a perfectly flat base and a grid that could ensure bulkheads are square to the keel an parallel with each other also the same aspects in the vertical axis. I lined out the base board with parallel lines spaced at 25 mm and then from the centre-line at 90 degrees I marked the bulkhead positions.
Hi Welcome to the site. I suggest you buy a copy of the Model Boats Magazine to see what might appeal. You can then contact one of the advertisers to get more details. If you need a ready built model you can usually find one on e-bay or in a local auction. There are pitfalls and if you can find a local friendly Model Shop or Club they will guide you in the right direction. Good hunting
Hi Kevin, I would recommend a brushless motor, and have great success with Airtec motors, real model shop with real people on the end of the phone. The one i would use is AXP 3542/1000. They recommend a 60 ah ESC but i would up this to 90 or 100, just in case of a fouled prop etc. Just type in Airtec Hobbies its all on there website Mark
Props by ChrisG Chief Petty Officer Posted: 2 months ago
Hello Doug I very rarely get my boats wet so the self righting will hopefully not be an issue and as I have had the bath taken out of my house the model when complete will not even get the old bath test. I have twin 540's linked to the 40mm three bladed props and as you rightly say experimenting with thee boat on the water will give me the most acceptable set up. Your recommendation of the Component Shop P94 would seem ideal and reading the spec. it answers several other questions, I am not particularly electrically or technically savvy you will have noticed. I must admit I prefer building with wood to plastic and P38, old fashioned, me, of course.😉 Regards Chris G
HI Steve, I would go to something like a 45 or 50mm with about 800 / 1000 kv this would enable you to go from 4s - 6s with a great turn of speed if needed Have a look at AIRTEC, they are a UK (Yorkshire) based model shop and have a good range of their own motors Mark