Only way to see if it works is to make a test rig and hold the exciter in place to see what it sounds like. Don't use the glue pads for now just hold in place with light pressure. Radar should be ok weight wise. All batteries should not be charged in a model, ever! They all contain chemicals and if a fault develops or they leak explosive gases the last place they should be is in an enclosed environment. There are high power NiMhs that may be suitable as they can be had in different formations. Component Shop will make up a pack to your specs. If you rush the only thing being spoiled will be the boat!
This is way more than just a maritime museum. The location in the heart the Chesapeak Bay Area, the home of the only sail ” fishing fleet in the U.S.A. No power drives at all with the exception of small ”pusher” units, kind of tiny, with room for a motor only! These are used to aid in getting to the fishery. The traditional boat is a Skipjack and the museum is a living boat yard. So even when there is no events there is always something to see. Model boat days are held around a large square tempary pool. One day is for scale and live steam, and another is free sail and model skipjack racing. We do not have control of the weather but I can not remember anything but sun on the days I have been there👍. The team at the museum are a great group of ladies and gentlemen who are passionate in their love of the sea and on model days you will find loads of helpful tips etc from all the “captains”. If you are visitors on holiday, Anapolis is no more than three quarters of an hour away, this is the home of the Rodgers collection of dockyard models and the worlds largest collection of French prisoner of war bone models (napolionic) in the world, it is a super nautical town! the Chesapeake museum is in St.Michaels, with lots of super shopping for the non model boating spouses. Further up the road on Tilghman island is a fantastic nautical book store who specializes in model ships and boats. However you need to visit the book store a day before the show day as everyone will be looking for that rare and special book!!!!! Hope this is a help.
Just to clarify where best to post your entries: There are four major areas to the website: Forum - Where any question can be asked and answered. Photo Gallery - Post photos of your boats and comment on others. Video Gallery - Upload video clips, show how your models ride on the water! Build Blogs - Record your build progress and print out your own booklet at the end! Fantastic keep sake. But also! Harbour - Members are given their own harbour, where you can store the boats you have and record how they're their setup. Everyones harbour is published online so you can then compare various different setups and performances. Model Boat Clubs - Are you part of a model boat club? Or do you sail at any of the model boat lakes? If so, add yourself as a sailor! Events - Here you can keep track of what events are up and coming, or add new events! Model Shop - A few companies list products here that help with boat building, why not check them out? It could be a good place to start if you're after a new project too! Dave
Beautiful! You must have had her on a trailer to the harbour. How was she constructed? I would have liked to build mine to the same scale, but just don't have the space or facility to transport to our little lake. Only way would be to build in two halves. There is a bloke in Hamilton who built a US carrier to 1/96, brought it to our annual regatta. Not very detailed. Weighed a ton - put ballast in after launching. Was very susceptible to wind. Carried it in the back of a ute in a case with red flag on the overhang. Had a set of wheels to get it to launch. Most of my RC models are to 1/96 except Nelson to 1/192. I had intended to build her to 1/96 in two halves, but at some stage she would have had to be joined during construction, and my workshop has a washing machine and drier in it so just not on. What drawings did you use?
Hi John, Agree re jobsworths, trouble is here any old guy or lady might suddenly appear brandishing brolly or walking stick, doesn't have to be an official! 🤔 Re brass bits for Snowberry; have to admit I'm a little concerned about the extra weight of the brass! Re: 'fat pike bung .... where would you stash it': Answers on a sealed postcard please to ..... 😉 Still considering a bottom drag trawler instead! 😲 Re Salvage op: Colin recently suffered a major disaster, a tree fell on his model workshop! 😡 See his Sea Queen refurbishment blog. Cheers Doug 😎
Pity such a beautiful West Coast location should have a popular boat club pond in disrepair. Sign of the time perhaps with many councils having reduced expenditure. But a disappointment travelling with my small grandson to sail his little Proboat Westward 18 for the first time. It's the first thing he noticed, no water. Staff in the RNLI shop along the promenade said the pond had not been in use since last year. Here's hoping the council can organise repairs before next year's season. I couldn't resist buying a little model fishing boat from them the RNLI shop which now has pride of place in our kitchen shelf.
Sat here gobsmacked, and thinking how I would feel if it happened to me. And the word is Gobsmacked, and probably numb with sickness. Hope you find at least some of your models in a repairable condition, and that you can make good the damage to your workshop. Best, & kindest wishes for the future, Dave W 😊
In preparation for the first public showing of my boat I have made a new display stand that looks a bit prettier than the first one I made. It’s designed to be more in proportion to the boat and to give a better view of the hull and I have included some model-boats.com stickers that are available in the site shop and also some Vintage Model Works logos kindly supplied by Mike Cummings at VMW 👍 As a finishing touch I have ordered an engraved brass plate giving some details of the original craft. I also found a wheeled flight case on eBay that the boat fits into perfectly without any adjustment to the existing foamed interior but I will have to re-make the mast to allow it to fold down for safety, not bad for £50 😁 The new stand fits into the base of the flight case but the boat also sits on some foam blocks for added support.
Hi Neil, yes, very similar. Could be regarded to as a first step before applying Eze-Kote to give it a harder, knock and almost everything else resistant surface. Hammerite then sticks to it like the proverbial to the blanket and you have a super clean 'engine compartment' dead easy to keep clean. 😊 80 quid for a brushless !!! Do you want it gold plated or what? My Propdrive 2830 cost less than 20 knicker from Hobbyking and was delivered almost before I ordered it! Just make sure it comes from the UK or EU (still!?🤔) warehouse and not USA or Global. otherwise you might get stuck for import tax 😡 For the motor mount / shaft alignment: no one said it was easy, but Nothing's Impossible', maybe that's why I drive Toyota!!😁 back end is determined by the diameter of the prop you want to fit, which in the case of brushless motor should be roughly the same diameter as the brushless (outrunner). In my case 28mm motor and 30mm prop. This defines how far you can lift the aft end of the shaft, leave at least 1cm between the prop tip and the hull! This reduces unwanted interaction between the vortex from the prop and the lamina flow along the hull, result; more forward thrust and better rudder effect. (Didn't spend 30 odd years talking to shipyards for nowt😉) If you have plan (or at least a sketch - take some measurements if you don't have one of these and make a sketch) of the keel and existing motor mount; project back from the newly determined exit point of the shaft. Check how far forward you need to go to be able to comfortably fit the motor mount with good alignment and purchase a shaft of appropriate length. Cut a wood block to fit around the keel as the basic mount and 'fiddle' with it until your motor and mounting (e.g. the Robbe / Romarin 400 mount) aligns with the shaft line. Alignment is checked by running the motor at a fixed low speed with an ammeter showing the current it draws. Shim the motor mount up / down, and shift slowly from side to side until the current reading is a minimum. Then glue and screw everything in place quick before anything moves! Takes almost longer to describe than to do😉 The coupling type shown in my photo is called a 'Steg' coupling here in Germany (don't know the English🤔) and available from Krick Modellbau, for various motor shaft / prop shaft diameters, here the link to their English page- http://www.krickshop.de/?shop=krick_e Part number for the 3.17mm (1/8") to 4.0mm version I used is 63902. part number for the motor mount I used for my 28mm brushless is 42117. Advantages (to me at least!) they are not as long as the traditional UJ and Cardan types, they are resilient but don't flop about like the UJ types so are much easier to fit and align. Cos they are shorter you can use 'em for mountings in confined spaces. And they don't make no noise!! 😉 One final tip (may not be so useful on hard plywood built boats!). When I had this problem with my destroyer I sharpened the end of an 8mm alu tube (same as the shaft tube dia) and used it to bore back from the hull exit to the last bulkhead before the motor mounts. the bulkheads though were 1/4" balsa! Nice and soft man 😉 Hope this helps more than confuses, but it all worked for me! Cheers and happy fiddling, Doug 😎
Hi Doug I agree a 600 is probably too heavy. Looking on Cornwall Model Boats site the motors sold for the kit (currently unavailable) look more like 400 size. I have used JP Power 480 motors in small craft and they are very punchy, light 92g and will work very well on 7.2v with a shaft diam 2.3mm. I agree the Raboesch prop shafts are good but to keep the weight down I would be looking at 3 or 4mm. Prop Shop have three bladed racing props specifically for this motor. Dave
Hi Canabus I agree but I retired for the second time in 2009 and have no wish to return to employment. I do scratch build so make lots of fittings. My purpose in buying the 3D printer was to speed up the production of masters that I could take a mould off to then produce in fast cast resin. Used this on the Olympic and Titanic and have the hull for the Mauretania at 1:96 so plenty of fittings required there. I also have fittings for the KD Perkassa so am not restricted to any scale. This is the real benefit of CAD design as you can quickly rescale to anything (within reason) and the SD printer will produce the masters. 3D copiers are still a bit in the development stage for hobbyists and I am waiting for the cost to become more reasonable. I have seen a demo but its only good for figures in 1:12 scale with an affordable 3d printer. You could use a professional print service but its dear and rather defeats the object of designing and printing at home. Stephen does produce a range of fittings in the site model shop so they are available. Dave