The hoses, along with every other aspect of the build are really good. The boat is a credit to model making. It's wonderful that the asylum has these facilities, and modelling is such good therapy 😉. You must show the boat in action now. Well done bro.😊
After the sail I tried to figure out how to make the chain plates. The links below the channel are easy enough, but the doubled rod strap that wraps the deadeye was (and is) giving me headaches. I was originally going to bolt the chainplates to the hull, but instead I intend to use round-headed brass wood screws, and I've installed oak strips inside the hull to give them something to bite into. You may recall I'm modeling the ship as she was new, when her portrait was painted in 1856. There's nearly nothing showing what her stern looked like but one etching done of her in dry-dock in Boston in 1859 when she returned from her first cruise. Several painting of her contemporaries show very similar stern ornamentation. I already had the moldings applied based on the drydock drawing, now I made the three rosettes she still carries today - her "constellation of stars." My first attempt was too think and bulky, so I started fresh with a bit of boxwood, and used styrene to apply details. Once done, it got a coat of primer and then I pressed it into clay to make molds for the casting resin. If I had a "Constellation Restaurant" my butter pads would all be molded like this :) Checking into the fashion of the day for depicting stars and things astronomical, I painted the stars gold on a royal blue background. They were then epoxied to the hull and quarter galleries. Soon after, I lost my job of 18 years, and about a year later had to move out of the house and in with my girlfriend. The models literally went on the shelf. She sat on top of a cabinet for nearly a year when I got an invite from the director of Historic Ships Baltimore to bring the model to the Baltimore Port Expo celebrating National Maritime Day.
The model's lower masts are made of white cedar. These were cut square, a taper hand-planed in, made 8-sided, then round. The bands are the same brown paper tape the hull was covered in. A visit to the real ship in Baltimore to get measurements, and look at some artifacts netted me some bits of live oak original to the ship. The Navy began stockpiling live oak for ship-building in 1816 with the Gradual Increase Act. It was from these stockpiles that Constellation was built. These trees were as much as 200 years old when cut, so this wood I have could be as much as 400 years old. I wasn't sure how to incorporate this bit of the ship into the model, and opted to make the mast steps from it. One piece is the size of a business card and stamped USS Constellation 1854. I'll stamp the year she's finally finished and my name into that and install it as her builder's plate. The masts step on what I call her mechanical decks. These are simple 3/8" plywood panels where her mechanics and controls will be mounted. Beams were epoxied into the hull for them, and they are held in place with brass wood screws. The aft deck is where the mizzen steps and the rudder servo is mounted. The battery lies on it's own deck just abaft the main mast as low as it can possibly be inside the hull. The cross-section drawing shows deck beams, decks, ballast rods, the external ballast, etc etc etc. The rudder is made from Plexiglas as shown in it's drawing. A brass tube passes through the stern that the rudder's head just fits into. There's no room behind the rudder head for a bell-crank setup to work, so I again went with real boat tech and installed a tiller, made of copper plate soldiered to a set-collar. There's a couple of pictures of the aluminum tubes for the ballast rods in there. You may want to right-click on an image, like the drawings, and "View Image" then click on it to see it full size and legible. Use the browser's "back" button to get out of that.
The gun deck isn't modeled. I was building a model intended to sail in open water and didn't want to deal with open gun ports, hatches, etc. After glassing the hull, she got beams for the spar deck installed. 3/4" x 3/4", they're probably a bit more than was needed. Tubes were installed for 5/16" stainless threaded rods that would hold her external ballast on. The forward one will be disguised as her galley stovepipe, the aft one is hidden under the cabin skylight. The ballast is a 2" i.d. PVC pipe about 4 feet long, filled with lead bird-shot, and weighing some 42 pounds. With that much done, I took her to the creek to see her float, but I forgot the rods. A few days later I took her out again, remembering the rods, and put her lower masts in her. Now baptized, I applied the moldings and trim on her stern, and built up her enclosed head. Her gunport were molded in resin in the closed position with the guns clamped in the openings and a tampion in the muzzles. These were epoxied into gunports cut from the outer layer of glass and wood battens, leaving the matting in place as a backer. Then she got some paint, mainly because I was getting tired of her looking like a barkless log. The bottom was painted with copper paint, but three rolls of 1/2" wide peel-n-stick tape had just arrived and I started into coppering her bottom right off. Copper plates are nailed on with copper nails with counter-sunk heads through pre-punched holes in the copper sheets. The are FLAT with with a little hollow where they're driven in just beyond flush with the surface. They are NOT round headed nor look like rivets as so many models insist are doing. I pressed an impression of the nails into the face of each plate. Installing them pushes this dent back out and leaves a little circle that looks as it should. It took about a week to do one side, and I took a break to make the tops for the lower masts, then continued onto coppering the other side. It was bright and beautiful when finished, but it wouldn't stay that way. Copper doesn't turn green when submerged, any copper coin will show you it turns brown. I wanted her bottom to brown somewhat, but not too much, and I figured to let that happen naturally. When it got where I wanted it, I'd clear-coat it to lock it in. Two yards of Dupont Supplex cloth was ordered to make her sails. This is the stuff SC&H used on their square-rigger kits and it's great for making sails. Being a nylon, you cut it with a hot-knife, and use a pointed tip in a soldering iron to make grommets. I drew on the panel seams with a .03 marker as even the finest stitching is over scale even at 1:36. Top-cloths, corner reinforces, reef bands, etc, are all cut from the same cloth and glued on with fabric adhesive. The only sewing was of the bolt-ropes. These are done by hand much the way real ones are - I've sewn a few miles of real bolt ropes in my time. There's really no substitute for this if you want a functional scale appearing sail. A machine can't sew it properly, in the right position, or securely.
I promised to share some articles and photos from the Model Engineer magazines I picked up recently but I've been distracted by the Meccano Dolphin 16 which on a whim decided to build from scratch. It's coming along nicely but I am certainly very rusty and the eyesight could be better. However, here's a Lady with a 2ft beam, Miss EEDEE. She is 5 ft long 2ft beam and 70lbs. In the early 50s she was claimed to be the first radio control boat to cross the channel. She was powered by a 4.5cc watercooled engine from Electronic Developments Surrey Ltd. I have left the adverts alongside it to show how far we have come in the last 60 odd years....... or have we?
For all its iterations the end result has remained true to the original and the model sails very realistically. It would be good to see another post to the blog showing the electrics and another the sails. Dave
This model was started in February of 1999, and has been worked on, at best, in fits and starts. While progress has been made, and it's capable of sailing, it's far from finished. It began as plywood paneling pulled from the walls of my first house and cut into frames. It was to be planked with white pine strips, also scraps from remodeling, but I was distracted by a book. Nasty things books, put all sorts of ideas in your head. I got the idea of making a plug for a mold so I could turn out THREE hulls! One for me, one for sale, and one to be donated to the real ship. To that end, and with the inspiration of the book, instead of planking, I battened the hull and sheathed it with brown paper wet-n-stick packing tape. Let's just say, that wasn't a good idea and leave it at that. A lot of life changes happened; moved to a farm; got unmarried, sold the farm, got an apartment, got a house with a workshop, and 10 years later, recommenced work on the model. I continued on with the original plan for about a day when I shifted gears and decided to glass the "plug" and make it a hull. I proceeded to prep it to that end, but looking back, what I should have done was strip it down the the forms and start again, planking it properly. Instead, I covered the outside with 4oz cloth, filled between the battens with poly resin and glass matting. The images show the model from it's start to it's glassing, though the site won't allow me to dictate the order in which they're presented - sorry for that. The model is of the American sloop of war Constellation launched in 1855, and as she appeared in Naples in 1856 based on a painting of her by Thomas deSimone. She is 1:36 scale; 1 inch = 3 feet. Beam: 13-5/8" (34.6 cm) Length on deck: 61" (154.9 cm) Length between perpendiculars (American): 59-1/8" (150.2 cm) Draft, without ballast keel: 7" (17.8 cm) With 3-1/2" ballast keel: 10-1/2" (26.7 cm) Weight, with ballast: Approx. 100 pounds (45.36 kg) Length over the rig: 95" (241.3 cm) Width over the rig: 30.5" (77.5 cm) ~ Main yard w/o stuns'l booms. Height bottom of keel to main truck, without ballast keel: 65" (165.1 cm) With ballast keel: 69" (175.3 cm) Total Sail Area: 2,807.01 square inches in 17 sails (19.5 sf, 18,110 scm, 1.8 sqm) Working Sail Area: 1,836.1square inches in 13 sails (12.75 sf, 11,845 scm, 1.2 sqm)
Dear crewmembers, I'm based in Garmisch-Partenkirchen, Germany. This town is about 1 hour south from Munich. I'm looking to initiate a scale boat modeling group with folks within the region. Language, background, etc is not an issue. Just passion for the hobby and desire to show-off your boats or just to chat about anything boat-building. Please drop me a line if interested!
Hey everybody I have an idea! Why don' t we post the photos of ours shelves where we keep our models? And our workbench? I think it would be interesting. For example i keep some model in their boxes and some on my gundam showcase right upon my turntable! My workbench is outside the balcony!
Hi, some next words yet.. Let me quote some comments from Kimosuby here too.. Still, with out resort to complicated calculations etc most model bargees decide to add a keel. Note; not a fin as this implies a thin item, but a good area of keel. Its position is most usual, on a 1/24 scale barge, with it’s leading edge 3 inches behind the front edge of the mast. It’s purpose is to inhibit leeway, which on such a small flat bottomed hull, is quite large. Visual examination of the barge profile (all scales) shows that this is also the position that the leeboards occupy when lowered, so if it was a good position for the full size barge builders, then it’s probably good for us modellers too. ............ I asked Ivor Bittle too, and he gave me the same advice. he wrote in short ... The location of the CLR should be located approximately on the vertical axis at a location corresponding to the center of the wetted surface of the leeboard located downward approximately at an angle of 45 °- 60° .. if something looks good, then it's good ... Before all --as I can see .. you have to use rule of thumb .. 😊 The Universe in which we live is supremely untrustworthy (Douglas Adams) Greetrings 😉 Tom
Hi Nick Yes, I was very pleased with the final model and its maiden voyage. It looks particularly good with all the lights on. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4pTQgjg8ZuY&t=3s Just a reminder, be very precise when positioning the hull skins and don't use too much glue as the ribs will show through. Best of luck. Steve
Hi David, Great job on the Model, The Light Ship"AMBROSE" is a good memory for me! I still remember having to go up her mast and change her lights. She uses custom light bulbs rated at 150 Volts can't remember the amps though! Thanks, for sharing the Picture just showed it to the wife. She liked your model as well! Ed.👍👍👍
First open water test went well, but with two caveats: 1) Would like to increase performance somewhat, closer to her looks. The initial tests of the unfinished hull showed adequate performance. As the detail and superstructure have been added, it has deteriorated. The increased weight of over 2 lbs has increased draft and wetted area, thus drag. 2) The bow is slightly low. Decided the best way to improve performance would be to increase the NiMh battery output from 7.2 to 9.6 volts. Thus added two more cells to the forward “C” cell holder. Also increased the LED resistor capacity and added a voltage reducer to avoid burning out the lights and bow thruster at this new voltage. By examining the drawings and the model layout decided to tackle the second by moving the forward battery carrier from just in front of, to just behind, the centre of gravity. Fortunately the Damen drawings show the C of G location. This increased the stern draught by about 1/4”, with the bow similarly decreased. Also reduced the stern ballast to about 3 oz. A further open water test showed an nice improvement in speed with the model now sitting on the waterline. Running time exceeds an hour, she also looks trim and purposeful. Think this is about as fast as an 9.6 NiMh installation will operate. Adding more cells will increase weight, adding to the draught. Am toying with trying a LI-PO installation in the future. This will provide increased voltage with a weight reduction, but rather costly though. Have decided to enjoy the model as she currently is; there is plenty to look at with the working fire hydrant, the bow thruster, the work and navigation lights. Will concentrate on launching and making the RIB operate, have some ideas on how to do this and will report in due course.
Hi First sorry that I have not made myself known before, bad insight on me and thank you for the add. O.K I have now left work and joined the ranks of the G.O.M. I have been modeling boat's (Sub's) for some time, mainly the WW2 "T" class, some time back I got Brian of Mobile Model Marine to let me have the first Lady "T" hull as I took a liking of the mock up that he had on his stand, and from that I have now moved onto tug's from the early 1900's.👍 My other love's other than my Wife are my Ducati 900ssie, and my SLK.😎 I am also a member of the Swiss Cottage MBC, and I do hope that in time I will meet up with some of you at the show.s All the best Fred
Hello. I am trying to establish as much information as possible on the boat as show in the attached pictures. This model was found in the boot of a car some 40 years ago by a friend of mine when he bought the car.It has lain in his shed from that day to this. It clearly is Scratch built and has a Basset-Lowke motor.(which works very well after all that time lying idle) It is plank on frame construction. I have found limited information on line on her but am wondering if anyone has a wealth of knowledge on either the model or its real life version.The last picture shows a hulk of what I think is the same ship. Regards Bill.