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>> Home > Tags > model show

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London Model Engineering Exhibition by robbob Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 9 hours ago
Don't miss the London Model Engineering Exhibition at Alexandra Palace. Friday 19th January - Sunday 21st January The South's Major Showcase of Modelling... Not to be Missed! I'll be showing my RAF Crash Tender on the Blackheath Model Power Boat Club stand. http://londonmodelengineering.co.uk/ http://londonmodelengineering.co.uk/showguide.pdf

M.V. TEAKWOOD by RHBaker Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 days ago
Doug, Thanks for the encouragement. Was contemplating not saying anything, so readers got the impression my skills were perfect! On second thoughts though, felt that the major objective of this site is to help and encourage modelers. Thus decided better to describe the undesirable feature and then show it could be resolved. Rowen

M.V. TEAKWOOD by RHBaker Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 days ago
As the superstructure rose in height it confirmed a suspicion that had been growing for some time. In spite of the copious checks during construction, the leading edge of the bow was twisted slightly by about 3/32” towards starboard at it's base. Not sure how this developed, can only guess there was a slight misalignment during the original modifications that eventually grew to become clearly visible. It was the kind of defect only discernible to a careful observer - or me! Initially hoped to avoid corrective action, but the superstructure build seemed to emphasis the twist. The model is now looking quite good; it would be a pity to compromise it with an elementary, but fundamental, issue such as this. After many measurements, including using spirit levels and squares, decided to cut the trusty bow coat hangar loose, reposition it carefully laterally and then epoxy into place. The longitudinal shape was fine. The pictures show the twist, the cut and then the amount of reposition required. Reconstruction followed the original bow addition procedure. There was a lot of sanding required on the starboard side of the bow to realign the bow and hull transition. Fortunately, this was limited to the addition area, so neither the mechanical nor water sealed qualities of the original Velarde hull have been compromised. After repainting and finishing, all looked well, as shown in the final picture. Concluded this repair was indeed worth the effort. The problem would have been exaggerated in my mind to spoil my enjoyment and then pride in the model. Glass fibre is remarkably forgiving and there should be no reluctance to embark on such modifications when necessary.

Some super models on the water at the Southern Model Show by Baggie Captain   Posted: 4 days ago
What a great video - some splendid vessels of all types on show. Wonderful. Thank you for allowing others like me to see this.

Some super models on the water at the Southern Model Show by Dom of Essential RC Commander   Posted: 5 days ago
Various boats on the water at Southern Model Show 2017

Big hovercraft at the International Model Boat Show by Dom of Essential RC Commander   Posted: 9 days ago
Always interesting things to watch Hovercraft and these were 3 very different types.

Lifeboat Enthusiasts' Society by Dom of Essential RC Commander   Posted: 11 days ago
Lifeboat Enthusiasts' Society demonstrate a huge array of super scale boats at the International Model Boat Show. Enjoy !

The Model Show by dragon Lieutenant   Posted: 21 days ago
Hi Dave ill be attending but not with a club but thanks for the e-mail.

The Model Show by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 21 days ago
Poynton Leisure Centre Yew Tree Lane Poynton Cheshire SK12 1PU Date: Saturday 9th December – 10am – 5pm Sunday 10th December – 10am – 4.30pm They have an indoor pool and Individual Exhibitors or Clubs are welcome for details and an application form see www.themodelshow.co.uk

The Model Show by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 21 days ago
Poynton Leisure Centre Yew Tree Lane Poynton Cheshire SK12 1PU Date: Saturday 9th December – 10am – 5pm Sunday 10th December – 10am – 4.30pm They have an indoor pool and Individual Exhibitors or Clubs are welcome for details and an application form see www.themodelshow.co.uk

Fender addition by Novagsi0 Commander   Posted: 21 days ago
Mum went to the international model boat show and was amazed at the prices. She also thought they were rubbish for the money, her words not mine. She was a professional dress maker. So will update when there done, they take a couple of hours to Knit each one and the front fender all day. I think they look good, the small fenders are filled with a wine cork shanfered both ends on a lathe (thats the bit i do) to maintain the shape and a small weight added so they hang right. Note the cork means they will float if one gets bashed. Regards stephen.

The 'Beast'...a miracle of geometry by Dom of Essential RC Commander   Posted: 22 days ago
I liked this. Designed purely from very old pictures of the full size apparently. Respect to the builder for the creation of this vessel. Filmed at the International Model Boat Show 2017.

Sea Queen Prop shaft by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 23 days ago
Hi AndyG Not sure what type of coupling was supplied but I use a common Universal coupling on my 48" Sea Queen and use a brushless 42 size 850Kv water cooled motor of 700 watts and it is happy driving a Prop Shop prop of 42mm at 45 amp on full throttle. Power is from an 11.1v Lipo of at least 2200 mA but Nimhs would work, just not as fast and less duration. My motor is mounted in the main cabin and I have no problem with the prop shaft. Originally designed for IC power so perhaps you have heard of problems when we used such powerful and not so well controlled devices. My model goes on the plane very easily and any more power would make it unstable. Pics attached to show my set up. You can just see the coupling in front of the motor.

Electronics Down Below (5) by NPJ Captain   Posted: 25 days ago
This time I will try to remember to put in the ‘source’ information on the bits and pieces I use........... In the most recent piece I should have included exciters/transducers are Dayton Audio DAEX 25VT -4, 4 Ohms – 20 Watt pair, obtained from Sound Imports Netherlands and very quickly as well. The sound unit is a Mtroniks Digisound 5M diesel sound, available all over the place. Now to look at where I am at. Exciters are in place as high up the Hull as possible, but remembering the Deck level. Used the adhesive pads as supplied after wiping that part of the Hull with Meths and Silicone adhesive to keep in place as well as using the wiring tidies from Modelsport Ltd., for the cabling. (Pic 1+2) Before I start the motor and controller wiring I changed the platform ‘up front’ (pic3) with a piece of thin ply which I have given a couple of coats of varnish to waterproof. Then I thought to myself “why am I waterproofing this when, if it gets that wet, it will have gone to the bottom and be useless anyway”! (Pics 4) However, the platform gives a little more choice in terms of layout of other components and my plan for them is not really settled yet. I am concerned about the stern and possible swamping, but it currently seems the best place for the upgraded battery. (Pic5 ) Whilst talking batteries, I have gone for a separate battery supply for the receiver and hope to use the Bec supply for running other less critical items. Also the fitting of the battery in the stern bay drew my attention to the rudder servo for a couple of reasons. First is I am still considering increasing the size of the rudders and I am assuming that will increase the strain on the servo. The servo supplied is a standard issue and not water resistant so I have gone for an upgrade as shown(Pic6) That gives torque increase of 17Kg/cm over the Hobby Engine S1040C and has metal gears, metal control arm and waterproof for 20grams extra weight. Second is the closeness to the new battery position. So I was going to alter the servo arm setup anyway and the new metal arm suits this well. Maybe my ‘tutors’ will consider all this to be a little ‘over the top’ but I do so enjoy messing......................... New Servo DS 3218 by AYANI from Amazon. (Pics 6/7 ) Following that distraction, back to the front end and the Motor/Mixer placing and wiring. Now a little time ago I drew a plan to see what could go where and it came out that most of the ‘bits’ would go in the front bay with motors to be wired once power was brought forward, followed by the Esc/Mixer. (Pic 8) At that time I bought a P94 dual esc/mixer from Action Electronics and got the 20 amp version to be on the safe side................. My ‘guardians’ did point out this was ‘over-kill’ but I had already got it. Now, when placing the unit on the mounting board I found that the heatsinks made it too high to fit in the Hull! So being a spoilt brat only child I ordered the 10 amp version and as usual it came very quickly from up here in Bangor. ( Will keep the other one for the next project............Happy Hunter??) Unboxed it and it looked just the same, heatsinks and all. (Pic 9/10 ) So at that moment there was a bit of a set-back so I rang Component Shop at Bangor, they said “take the heat sinks off and you have a P94 lite”! Such a simple answer and such a nice chap. (Pic 11 ) Now a quick 'measure up' before I have a glass of wine (Pic 12) and does it all fit...? Well it appears to at the moment! (Pic 13) Next time really going to screw down the components under the forward hatch and wire it up. NPJ

MV TEAKWOOD by RHBaker Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 25 days ago
Thinking back over this part of the project, felt it might be of interest to others considering modifying a hull to summarize my experiences: 1) Cutting and modifying a hull to a different profile seems intimidating, but using planning then care, using a simple selection of workshop tools and adhesives, it is quite within the skill of the average modeler. 2) This is the second proprietary glass-fibre hull I have used. Both required a “spindle” of bulkheads and longitudinal stringers to hold the hull rigid and to which can also be fastened the electrical / mechanical equipment needed for the model. 3) Have tried two approaches for the spindle. The first was to totally assemble it off the hull, get it as rigid as possible, fit it into the hull and epoxy into place. The second was to fit the keel reinforcement to the hull then epoxy the bulkheads and remainder of the spindle to it. That spindle remained relatively flexible until finally installed. 4) On reflection, think it is best to fully assemble the spindle, taking care to get it true and then fit it to the hull. The relatively flexible hull can then be adjusted to fit the more rigid spindle and kept true. 5) Used the relatively flexible spindle arrangement on the Teakwood and have spent many hours getting the bulwarks and deck frames leveled and lined up satisfactorily. The more rigid spindle would have helped mitigate this by ensuring the frame was accurate before trying to adapt it to the hull. Have now finished all the modifications needed to the hull and the result shows that this type of transformation can be successfully completed..