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>> Home > Tags > model show

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Gwen M Model Yacht by ModelHover Lieutenant   Posted: 23 hours ago
Has anyone built a schooner (or skipjack) named Gwen M from the Marine Modelling plan No.MAR 2556 and featured in their magazine in the July 1996 issue ? I am trying to ascertain the weight of the lead keel and how it is fixed. Also I am looking for photos of the interior of the cabin to show the arrangement of servos for rudder and sails. Any help would be appreciated.

A tall ship and a wheel to steer her with by Jerry Todd Captain   Posted: 5 days ago
Making a ship's wheel, specifically the turned spokes of a ship's wheel, and 20 of them all a-like, has been beyond me. So I gave up and got Model Monkey on Shapeways to scale his Constitution wheel up to 1:36 scale, and got 4 of them; 2 for Constellation, and 2 for Macedonian. The helm is made of mahogany. The curves braces laminated from some strips from an old kit; the uprights from some scrap left from a musical instrument build. The drum is some mahogany dowel, from a kit again, and a brass rod axle. Some paint and clear-coat and it's just about done. I was going to make it operate when the rudder servo moved, but a spoke handle fell off while painting, and I figure it's a bit fragile to be spinning at "non-scale" speeds, so it'll just get some line wrapped around the drum for show.

St.Albans Model Show by BillD203 Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 6 days ago
Mini Victory on tour will also be on show, it’s only one of four places you can see it this year.

St.Albans Model Show by robbob Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 6 days ago
This is the annual exhibition by the St.Albans & District Model Engineering Society. It gets bigger and better every year and it's a great family day out with lots to see and do for children (and grown ups too !) Lots of local clubs exhibiting too so there's a great variety of all types of models for serious model makers to see. We hope to see you there 😁

Spektrum, new, useless... by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 11 days ago
Hi Martin, don't bother trying to make a bridge rectifier. That's fraught with possible pitfalls for novice and the individual hi current diodes are usually more expensive, and normally only sold in packs or rolls of dozens or even hundreds and thousands!🤔 Use a ready made bridge like I did😉, see attached pic of my test board for the Target. This one from RS will do nicely https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/products/7514424/ It's also the cheapest, £7.47 with free delivery, and smallest pack I could find, 5 pieces. Which gives you a few for your other Taycols as well 😊 Another advantage is that the bridge package has the +, - and ~ symbols marked on the case so you know immediately what to connect where, as per my previous mail. If you build a bridge with single diodes I'll have to tell you how to identify each end, where it goes, and where the inputs and outputs are 😲 Re ESCs; I take it the little red one is the Simprop?? Looks about the thumbnail size of the midget thing that blew up in my PTB. 😡 See 2nd pic 😲 The one with the heat sink on top looks more robust and trustworthy. I'd be tempted to use that. Any Maker / Model ID on it? Your experience with the Storm RX just underlines my recommendation to use A with A and not A with X!😉 First off I'D say take your Spektrum TX to the UK Service man mentioned somewhere above and get him to check it out and show you the binding. If you are then still determined to smash it send it to me instead! I might be able to salvage something useful from it 😁 Have fun😁 Cheers, Doug 😎 PS: Another FlySky TX!? Your 'economising' is beginning to get expensive 😭

Windows, stoopid question. by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 13 days ago
Hi, because it's too damned hot to move, I'm gonna sit here and ask as really dumb question. How do people get windows into things like cruisers or Crash tenders, MTBs, etc? Do you stick em behind the panels before the roof goes on, risking all the grubby muck and bullets of rubbing down, filling and painting? Do you stick them to the window frames, then stick the whole assembly in? But what about when the frames are painted with the panels? What about making them dark grey so you don't see through them? I can only think of painting the model first then cutting the windows very accurately and sticking them in somehow so the glue don't show. I dunnow....never had to do it before! What do you inveterate builders of glazed box structures do? Martin

Gina 2 Billing Boats Fish Cutter - Restoration & Conversion by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 17 days ago
IN THE BEGINNING THERE WAS ....... Inherited from my Aunt Beryle a few years ago. Found it in her studio, no idea how she came by it! Despite being paralysed from the waist down in a motor bike accident at 16 she became a respected artist, National Academy exhibitions etc. As we all hail from Kent (mostly Folkestone) and Beryle often painted scenes of the south Kent coast, Dungeness, Rye etc, including the fishing boats, I long assumed that the boat, Reg. E714, was from a south coast port possibly in Kent. After much research I discovered that she is a Danish fish cutter based in Ebsjerg on the west coast of Denmark. https://www.google.de/maps/place/Esbjerg,+Denmark/@55.543292... The kit was built (or better said thrown together!) as a static model. First four pics show what I started with! 😲 First job was to try to dismantle her without destroying too much. Next 6 pics show the sad results. 🤔 Everything is tinder dry, brittle and very fragile, and mostly smothered in thick layers of oil based paint. 😡 The deck is paper thin, obviously just printed, and fell apart in my hands. No great loss as I had already concluded that a new planked deck was required. Decided that first priority is to repair and stabilize the hull. See next Update! A messy business 😲

Charging NiMhs, one for Doug?... by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 18 days ago
Right, gentlemen who know fings, here are shots of the wires I have. OK, I must have put the banana plugged wires in a box marked R/C Gear, I'm assuming, but the charger's wires mainly have brick red flat contact -containing plugs. However, none of my battery packs have those, they have the white things with two small round pins in 'em, one socket square, one round. The newest pack for binding duties has a little black jobby that fits the Rxs. Pictures included of all relevance. I tried to charge an old(ish) lead acid after making up a lead, but the charger put up a "Connection Break" legend on its screen. I assume that means, That one's f****d, mate. Fair enough, I thought it might be. But i still haven't worked out a lead to charge those green wrapped old NiMhs. I HAVE charged them before, because I have had two attempts at flying the aircraft. It went round in circles and then took a slate off my daughter's roof, proving that aircraft models really DO need insurance! Anyway, enclosed are three pics. The shot of a Lipo is to show that I do have such things, but that dates way back and although not damaged or bulged hasn't been charged while I've had it. It was sent to me with 2 small outrunner brushless jobbies and a couple of brushed ESCs as a thankyou for sending plywood to a part of Britain that the PO won't go to with biggish parcels. Finally....I have today received my FlySky RC set and guess what? It all works, perfectly, out of the box. It's PRE-BOUND! Whoopee do! It musdt be an upgrade as it came with a small Li-Po battery pack for the Tx. and a charge lead from USB to Tx. body. That's all great, but how do I know how long to charge it for? It currently has what looks like a full charge on it, judging by the brightness of the LEDs. Getting used to a passable impression of my son's old Subaru front wheel and tyre (complete with vented disc and caliper behind!) will take a while. I am guessing that pushing the throttle trigger forward is like a brake on a car. I assume on a boat it would be reverse? The instructions are not in any way exhaustive! But hey...on a tatty old Futaba servo it all worked a treat. Here's the pics of wires. Cheers, Martin

Crash Tender davit info... by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 25 days ago
Hi Robbob, I suspected as much🤔 Even though SAR is SAR! I envy you your proximity to RAF Hendon, but then again I've got the Deutsches Technology Museum 20 minutes down the road (not on foot!) which has all sorts of info on ships, boats, planes, etc etc. They have superb models, several originals, e.g. U1! And an excellent bookshop with thousands of reference books. One of which showed me how to correct the hull shape of my Type IIA U-Boat. Krick had it much too simple! I'm not there nearly often enough. Happy researching all, don't forget to build😁 Cheers, Doug 😎 BTW: sprinkling any sort of dust or sand (never mind the poor little Chinchillas😉) seemed to me at the outset to be 'hit and miss', here nowt, there a mole hill🤔 think I'll stick to wet & dry paper or the alu foil from Kerrygold tubs. Check 'em out, a great tread pattern 😉 PPS; thinking of starting the RSPCCh! 😁

Spektrum, new, useless... by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 27 days ago
Doug, if you have an Orange Rx. like mine, the bit where the plugs go is on the end face, so when you tip the battery wire on its side to plug in, the red wire is indeed uppermost, the black wire, bottommost. The Spektrum Rx. has the plug bit in the top face, so the uppermost, red lead goes through a right angle and goes downwards, but yes, in the middle. I made sure of the polarity first, but that bit you mentioned meant nothing to me, just symbols. I didn't want to trust them if I didn't understand them. The bind plug did indeed go in the slot marked bind. On the Orange Rx. it says BIND/BATT. I didn't plug any servos in as it isn't necessary and I didn't have them to hand without fishing them out of the restricted space in my Vanity model. I have now watched so many you-tubes and read so many instructions that I can assure you I got the order right. Bind plug has never been out of the Orange Rx, except to assure myself of good contact. Battery pack plugged into AUX> socket, flashing yellow light, Tx. tother side of workshop, pull on trainer switch and turn on power. Beedlyboop noise, light on right hand side of array, but NO flashing on Tx. Hold trainer switch till will to live starts to ebb, give up. The Spektrum you show, Doug is the same, albeit with different aerials, but the guy assures me it bound to his DX5e before he sent it to me for the trial. Your Orange however is very different from mine. Mine, as I said, has the pins poking out the end and the writing where your pins are. Yes, it has an S in the case, which I read meant signal, not that I knew what that was. It is a much smaller box than yours. Now you can see why I spoke of uppermost as my battery cable has to go on its side to plug into my Orange and in that position the red wire is indeed, uppermost. If you see the normal position for the Rx. to be flat on it's back with the pretty stuff on top. So, what else can it be? I will try what you suggested about the metal free garden, tomorrow and after that we will have to wait till the Fly Sky arrives, estimated E.T.A., early next month. Your PTB looks very bare. Had you always intended to strip the tubes and rudders too? Now, you have to paint the insides a nice neutral colour, like Spitfire Cockpit green, which is also Jaguar cockpit green, but Maseratis were silvery grey. Don't ask how I know...long story Cheers, Martin

Charging NiMhs, one for Doug?... by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Evenin' Martin, Oh dear oh dear oh dear! 😲 There is some good advice above, but maybe not optimally expressed for use by a Luddite! Sorry guys but this might be a relatively long post to separate the wheat from the chaff, explode a few myths and resolve this little conundrum of Martin's! One thing at a time! NUMBER1. THE RADIO- Dear Martin: Whatever possessed a self confessed Luddite and Scrooge like you to spring a large chunk of your hard earned pension on one of the most expensive and complex RC sets on the market in the first place???? I bought a Spektrum DX6 on impulse a few years ago while strolling around Conrad here in Munich. I've regretted it ever since. In retrospect it was way too expensive >600€, and complex. It is intended for the Fly Boys, as unfortunately most sets are these days. I have still not successfully programmed it to do what I want to do, instead of what it is pre-programmed to do for helis and fixed wing aircraft. Not even with it's own Spektrum RX, let alone a 'foreign' RX like Orange. So I have not yet risked it in a model. Definitely NOT my Catalina. Since then I have bought a Turnigy I6. Which does the same as the Spektrum, works fine with my Orange RX with giro for the Catalina😉, cost only 69€ (is now available for around 33 quid😡) and within a few hours I had it programmed and tested to do all I want in my destroyer and Sea Scout.👍 In short: the Spektrum is way way way Overkill for your yacht or Fire Float or similar, where you will only ever want rudder and sail servo / winch or rudder and speed control. So flog the Spektrum and get a nice simple (and cheap😉) 2 or 4 channel set. I can't imagine you ever wanting to start building special effects into your models so 2 (max 4) channels is all you will probably ever need. Stick your Spektrum on eBay, maybe you'll get at least a 100 quid for it. If you still want to go 2.4Gig get yourself a Turnigy i6 set with RX, 6 ch but cheap enough and I can help you directly with binding and programming from experience - I have a good English manual with no Chenglish gobbledygook. If not and you still have a working 27 or 40MHz FM set (40 would be better) use that. Where you sail, all alone, who's going to bother you or be bothered? BTW: Yes the Spektrum TX IS DSM2 and DSX compatible BUT you have to tell it what you want to use!!! Frankly I think trying that with a non-Spektrum RX is risky - especially first time out and for a novice Luddite😉 NUMBER 2. THE NiMh BATTERY- Voltage is not a reliable indication of battery charge / remaining capacity. After use a battery will recover slightly when at rest and the open terminal (off load) voltage will rise, often to the nominal voltage or slightly above. This is NO indicator of remaining charge as when a load is applied the voltage will drop again rapidly, the higher the current drawn the faster the voltage drops. If it goes below 1.0V per cell the battery will be permanently damaged and never regain it's original capacity. Haverlock is dead right about batteries losing charge when not used or regularly recharged. An NiMh batt loses charge at the rate of about 1% per day so after 3 months or so you can send it to the great recycling depot in the sky and buy a new one. Periodic cycling, discharge / charge prevents / minimises this - see care hints I posted above. And yes, NiMh do have that irritating Memory effect🤔 albeit not so pronounced as with NiCads. Lipos apparently not, but I ain't seen any evidence yet - the jury is still out! Sooo - ignore the 6.37V and run the batt through a discharge and full charge cycle. If your new NiMh batt has not yet been cycled and charged I would bet that it's present capacity is about 45%. See example below (and in attached pic) of one of my new 4.8V (nom) NiMh RX batts. NUMBER 3. THE CAPACITY CHECKER - "Glorified voltmeter" ? Where did the 6.37V reading come from if not from your 'new toy'? If it is showing volts it should also be showing capacity in %age. If you received the wrong thing it's not the "bloody electrics" but the bloody nit who packed and sent it that's at fault. Before you send it back check the below😉 Send me a photo of the Checker you have and with your battery plugged in so I can see what's happening on the display. Otherwise we are all poking about in the dark (Are we back to Jules and his friend Sandy😉😲) The link I sent you was for a checker exactly the same as mine except for the labelling! As you can see in my photo, properly connected it shows the terminal voltage and the remaining capacity (charge level) of the battery pack. Forget the Nixx (=2 Ni possibilities) display, that just means 'It ain't a LiXX' (3 Li- pissibolities). Attached photo shows a brand new 4 cell NiMh RX pack 4.8V (Nominal) connected to one of my Checkers. As you can see the voltage shown is 5.19V, according to the popular 'folklore' that would seem to indicate FULL charge. Unfortunately not🤔 Capacity indication is 45% which is normal for brand new batteries in storage and transit. Explanation thereof - see above! RE: " If it can do LiPos, why not the relatively simpler NiMhs?" a) the LiPo pack has a different chemistry and construction which requires different input circuitry on the checker, b) LiPos need balancing and are fitted with Balancer Plugs which connect to the multipin connectors on the checker. Each pin connects to one cell of the LiPo so that they can be monitored individually. LiPo chargers use this to balance the cells to within 0.01V (100mV) or less by adjusting the charge / discharge currents to each cell. The checkers use this to show you the individual cell voltages and charge states. A big difference, i.e.lower V and capacity, indicates cells with faults, e.g. higher internal resistance, or a discharged pack which needs charging and balancing. NiMh packs don't usually have this facility to measure individual cells. They are thus connected to a separate input on the checker which can then only show total pack terminal voltage and capacity. BTW: if you can get it passed 'THE Management' store your battery packs in the fridge😲 The 'coolth' slows down the rate of self discharge, which is a function of the battery internal resistance, which reduces slightly with reduced temperature😉 Enough for now, back to stripping my PTB for it's Midlife Refit! Cheers, Doug 😎 PS Martin: Just saw your post about another RX. Why the hell not buy a Spektrum designed Rx guaranteed to work with their TX? Or better still; flog the Spektrum and get a nice simple Turnigy set as above, also recommended by Ron, albeit the 9 ch version. All this frigging about with 'claimed compatible' bits and pieces just wastes money and time, fogs the issue and don't prove nutt'n!

Wherry hull in GRP by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Hi Dave, as Arron is the name on the facebook chat heading I assumed, reasonably, that he is the one to talk to. It's perfectly possible to see faults in a product without actually having it in one's hand. I can see that the light reflections down the side show the sides to be not fairly curved. Years in the car design/prototyping game have ensured that (I, too, am a tool/patternmaker of many years experience, from 1/500th city models to full size Bugatti design models). I have a good eye and both are telling me that hull in the picture I was sent isn't top drawer. The top edge of the hull is very woolly, not smoothly trimmed, but the main objection is that it's not clinker and that is a major problem for a wherry, considering only Albion was carvel. With a clinker model we could have a selection of different craft. With carvel, every model would be Albion, a little tedious at the pondside, I'm sure you would agree. Perhaps you could produce a pattern by gluing planks on to the basic GRP structure? Then re-mould. To counter the balance of such a big sail in a blow you will also need a fin keel, but that's down to the builder really, though your experiments with waterline would be useful for buyers of the hull as to weights required, etc. I don't wish to pee on your bonfire, but with a history of so many very good (and obviously so) GRP hulls on the market, we have come to expect a bang-on quality from the word go. Of course, any company new or old, who are prepared to listen to criticism and act on it are more than welcomed. Perhaps some different photos of the hull would satisfy us as to its shape and moulding quality? If it were a lot better than that one photo shows, I would be prepared to buy one still and then glue suitable planks to it to get my clinker model if that proves possible. I can't really say fairer than that. Cheers, Martin

Wherry hull in GRP by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Arron, the first thing to do is make the pattern a clinker construction. Your website showed that you were using CAD to develop plank shapes. I have no idea if that's possible, but if you can do CAD and it is possible why is the model carvel? Secondly the sides show a great deal of wobbliness to the shape. What car designers would describe as "flabbiness". There is no strength to the form. It goes in and out. Maybe the layup is not thick enough in that area. The side view isn't bad, if a little indistinct. Maybe in the trimming, but then a well laid up hull will trim much better. There should be a sheer line moulded in to which the deck level can be trimmed. I'm sure anyone wanting a model of Albion will be delighted to find a GRP hull at last, but for a wider audience you would have been better off taking a little longer and making a clinker version. Wherries were so varied in length/tonnage that a clinker model could cover as many as 3 popular scales at the extremes. BTW, I didn't say 3D was all you did, only that as a young guy it was very likely 3d printed since you will have learned the necessary CAD. I wish my son could do the same as he has 3 printers already, but can only use free files. If I could do CAD, I would be dangerous Cheers, Martin

Ellesmere Port Model Boat Club by epmbcmember Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 1 month ago
Until last year we hosted the March Model Boat Show at the Ellesmere Port Boat Museum, but dwindling space and the Museum,s lack of proper support with regard to advertising, sadly caused us to not go ahead with it this year. We are planning, however, to have a Model Show in May 2019 at our new venue. Hopefully many of the traders will support this, watch this space!!!!

Council madness... by epmbcmember Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 1 month ago
I regularly visit the Richmond Model Boat Club in Glasgow where there are many swans, coots, ducks and other water fowl on the water but the council provide a very nice, substantial club house for the model boat Club and have regular shows at the venue as well as regular weekly sailing. Urchfont Council must be made up of really stupid people who are control freaks.