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Ok, so I bit the bullet and got seem epoxy for the hull skins. I had some Gorilla glue but it was suggested that epoxy was better. Damn the stuff took ages to apply, and finding ways to clamp one hull skin with the limited stuff I had was testing my patience. I’ll be honest, I spent nearly an hour just finding ways of securing the hull skin to the frame. Used clamps, masking tape, bits of the kit and scraps to get it secured. Then just needed to wait 16 hours for it to set.....If you want to see some really impressive model making go to Harry Potter World. Hog warts Castle in there is immense. So pics show current state of play with one half of the bottom hull done. Next work will be at the weekend or next week, getting the other side on....
Westbourne is a Port of London Authority steam Tug from the Caldercraft Mini-Fleet Range - it is 1:48 scale. This model was discontinued a few years ago but I did manage to purchase a brand new boxed one via ebay a couple of years ago. During her time Westbourne was hired by the Royal Navy as a rescue tug. She saw service with them between October 1916 and July 1919 in the HM Dockyard. Prior to that she was on general towing service duties on the Thames. She can be found mentioned in “SHIPS OF THE ROYAL NAVY, 1914-1919 - by TYPE & CLASS Section 3. SUPPORT and HARBOUR VESSELS” Following the first world war ‘Westbourne’ was one of three tugs attached to the Port of London Authority (PLA) Dredging Service, they were the "Westbourne", "Thorney" and "Brent", they were all fitted with a drag and under running gear.In 1940 during the Battle of Britain. ‘Westbourne’ and many other tugs were used in assisting the berthing of these large ships that entered the Thames. The photos show from box to construction plus her on the water.
Not quite RH! But similar heritage. Brave Swordsman P1012 was one of two Brave class, the other being Brave Borderer P1011 (see photo taken on the Rhine river). Both were built between 1958 - 1960. The Danes ordered 6 (Søløven-class) to a similar design, 4 being built under license in Denmark. Replaced ca 1990 by the 'Flying Fish' class. The Royal Malaysian Navy ordered 4 boats in 1964 which became the Perkasa class, ca 6 years after the Braves. Class ship being KD Perkasa P150. The other 3 were KD Handalan P151, KD Gempita P152, KD Pendekar P153. They were delivered in 1967 some 7 years after the Braves were delivered. The Perkasa design was based on the Søløven-class which itself was based on the Brave class. So the model (to my mind) is Brave Swordsman. With 3 Perseus gas turbines the Braves were at the time the fastest naval ships in the world at 52 knots. The Søløvens and Perkasas used the same set up. Cheers Doug 😎 PS The Braves could be equipped as MTB or MGB with two 40mm. Borderer in the pic seems to be in that configuration.
[Score: 9/10] 52"/5800g Lorraine Powered by NiCad (7.2v) 3Amp/h Batteries - Comments: Built from a plan in a French magazine (Modele reduit de bateau) its a model 60 Pieds Open Chantier Sea World Montpellier France
Building a German Police launch right now and thought that the radar scanner components were a bit 'heath robinsonish', so decided to see if I could make an alternative unit. Photo 1 shows the Radar scanner parts obtained from MMB (ebay) for the princely sum of ONE POUND !!!!! plus 28p postage, and construction is of a medium soft resin that isn't prone to breaking or splitting when shaped or drilled, and a short length of 2mm brass rod becomes the drive shaft. This particular unit has a 44mm sweep bar but there are many other sizes available Photo 2 shows the drive motor which operates on voltages between 1.5 and 6v, ideal for the control driver which is the next item. Available from saih.tan on Ebay for under 7 pounds, and if the motor is mounted on a removable bracket as I have done, this unit can be used in several models without the need for major 'surgery', the motor and radar shaft being connected with a short piece of rubber tubing Photo 3 shows the receiver driven radar motor speed control which operates from an auxiliary receiver channel and takes the motor voltage from the main receiver supply, thus obviating the need for a separate supply and switch. This unit is available from www.mr-rcworld.co.uk and costs a staggering 14.50 post free sheesh ! I must add here that I am in NO way connected to any of the suppliers mentioned here, but just though some other modellers may be interested in 'home brew' accessories and suchlike.
That is a big advance on anything I have Doug! HUGE thanks! Also, it has been a couple of years since I last visited the RN Submarine Museum at Gosport and I can't locate the photos I took there. They had several superb models on display, including the one shown below (not my photo). In the background is the famous painting of the launch of HMS Dreadnought, but can anyone recall whether the model is also HMS Dreadnought, or one of her half-sisters (Valiant or Warspite, both 20ft longer), or another boat?
That's a great model kit. I have built several Dumas kits over the years and have never been disappointed. They allow you to use your imagination and skills; but my first RC project some28 years ago was a Billings Boats 1:20 USCG 44 foot Motor Lifeboat like yours with an ABS hull and wood superstructure. To be honest, I've been working on her for as long as I've been a father! Always adding details or overhauling, I reckon. A couple of years ago I took her apart and repainted the hull. Now I am periodically reassembling her with the original fittings. My present project is a Barracuda RC Boats 1:12 USCG 52' Motor Lifeboat, of which there are only three kits world-wide. The actual MLB "Triumph" (CG-52301, 2 were built in 1935) was lost with all hands during a rescue attempt off Cape Disappointment, WA in January 1961. My Father built strong aircraft, and I always preferred boats. I overbuild my boats in the same manner. My weakness is that I can't wait for the glue to dry. Looks good & keep up the great work! GO CUBS!
This is way more than just a maritime museum. The location in the heart the Chesapeak Bay Area, the home of the only sail ” fishing fleet in the U.S.A. No power drives at all with the exception of small ”pusher” units, kind of tiny, with room for a motor only! These are used to aid in getting to the fishery. The traditional boat is a Skipjack and the museum is a living boat yard. So even when there is no events there is always something to see. Model boat days are held around a large square tempary pool. One day is for scale and live steam, and another is free sail and model skipjack racing. We do not have control of the weather but I can not remember anything but sun on the days I have been there👍. The team at the museum are a great group of ladies and gentlemen who are passionate in their love of the sea and on model days you will find loads of helpful tips etc from all the “captains”. If you are visitors on holiday, Anapolis is no more than three quarters of an hour away, this is the home of the Rodgers collection of dockyard models and the worlds largest collection of French prisoner of war bone models (napolionic) in the world, it is a super nautical town! the Chesapeake museum is in St.Michaels, with lots of super shopping for the non model boating spouses. Further up the road on Tilghman island is a fantastic nautical book store who specializes in model ships and boats. However you need to visit the book store a day before the show day as everyone will be looking for that rare and special book!!!!! Hope this is a help.
Re Technobots Sound Units- "As part of our review into the product ranges we stock, this engine sound unit is no longer available from Technobots. We have been the retail outlet for the excellent engine sound module designs of Alan Bond of Forge Electronics for many years and have proudly supplied over 1,000 of these units to modellers around the world. The good news is that Alan is going to continue production of the programmable sound unit so please visit the Forge-Electronics website for pricing and availability. Our rather popular and well respected range of single voice and combo engine sound units have had a makeover! They still have the same great sounds but are even more user friendly." https://www.technobotsonline.com/combo-engine-sound-unit-mk2... Doug 😎
Hi Boaty, Apparently so! 😊 There was some discussion about this here a little while ago https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Peasholm_Park "Events Naval Warfare event The Naval Warfare event, Battle of Peasholm, has been played out for half an hour three times a week during the summer season for over 80 years. The model boats used are mostly man powered earning the fleet the title of "The smallest manned navy in the world". All the boats were man powered, until 1929, when electricity was introduced, and now only the larger boats need to be steered by council employees. In the early days, the models were First World War battleships and a U-boat. Then, after the Second World War, the fleet was replaced with new vessels and the battle that was recreated was the Battle of the River Plate." http://www.discoveryorkshirecoast.com/Scarborough-Naval-Warf... Pics attached!😉 Cheers Doug 😎 (Don't get shot😡)
This fantastic model was scratch built by John of the Solent Radio Controlled Model Boat Club. Here it is seen sailing in light winds on Setley Pond in the New Forest, UK. She took about a year to construct and is now into the third year of sailing. The boat is based on the period 1929/34 when "Bobby" Somerset owned her, he won the Fastnet race twice and finished second once, infact she is the only boat to win the Fastnet three times. She is based on the river Hamble and is owned by Dauntseys school in Wiltshire and is regularly raced by the pupils there. The model is approximately 1:15 scale. In 2013 the full size Jolie Brise celebrated the centenary anniversary of her construction by the Paumelle yard in Le Havre in 1913. The world famous, gaff-rigged pilot cutter was the last boat to carry the royal mail under sail and has won the Fastnet Race three times, including the inaugural race in 1925. In 2015 and 2016 she was the overall winner of the Tall Ships Races. Jolie Brise is owned, maintained and sailed by the pupils of Dauntsey's School. For more information about Jolie Brise go to, www.joliebrise.com (apologies...just seen this vid was already posted by Dave M😁)
I am not sure from your original question if you were asking about sizing of conductors or on which type of conductor/insulation was the most suitable. The previous contributors have covered the size issue and here are a few thoughts on other features. From your comments it looked to me you were interested in having wiring in models you wanted to be around for a long time which is quite likely. I think my fireboat is over 50 years old now and is still stuck to gether with the original glue, but has had a number of up dates to its internals from very messy diesel to brushed dc motors. Most reasonably priced wiring is made from copper or tin coated copper wire if you need to do a lot of soldering, with pvc insulation, if pvc is irradiated this gives it a longer life. As far as I can see from my house wiring, so long as it is not flexed, ordinary pvc insulation lasts a long time, but does become brittle. In the defence/aerospace business since the second world war there have been various exotic systems used ( up until the end of the war rubber was the general insulator which did not last very long until it perished ). Various ones being silicone rubber internal insolators covered with glass fibre woven covers, this is horrible stuff to deal with when stripping, vynel with a woven nylon covering being another. With the advent of irradiated pvc and ptfe these were totally replaced. Ptfe is a very good insulator and is very stable and not attacked by any common liquids or solvents. Due to its good insulating properties the thickness of casing can be very thin, the problem with it is it is difficult to strip so you have to have a good pair of strippers. Another option in a model boat installation would be to use varnised copper wire like that used in various electrical items, solenoids, transformers etc. then stick this down on to a bed of epoxy resin and then add an extra coat, a bit like a fitted p.c.b. I have never done it but if it was well done could look quite interesting. If the radio side is a major consideration the above is not very applicable as, as has been said by others the choice is largely decided by the equipment you acquire.
My knowledge of "elecy" stuff is pretty limited, but I see that the model boat world (excluding racing types) is in the dark ages compared to planes, helis, cars etc when it comes to motors, batteries etc We have to reply a lot on testing, fiddling etc when it comes to gettingn a fast electric set up, in a scale heavy old wood boat😁 as there isnt much info out there. I tried testing over a long time, with one boat inparticular, and was lucky enough to have te use of eagle tree data logging, so could measure watts, amps, gps speed, voltage drop and so on, and analyse the resultsd on graphs etc back home on the pc. Its amazing to see that sometime s the fastest set up isnt always the best when you compare run time, amp draw, heat, voltage draw etc, and what "looks fast" sometimes isnt as fast as you thought😊 This boat for example, 6kg, ply construction will do 25mph, after that torque roll is kicking in, and it want to roll over. I tested props over a long time, using cheap plastic "X" props, and with the results was then able to get a more efficient and visually pleasing brass cleaver 3 blade one. Ranging from 50mm to 55mm the amp draw went from 45a to 90a using same batteries!, and teh highest amp draw prop didnt produce the fastest speed, all interesting stuff. The boat is similar to the OP perkassa. I also went from direct drive, to a geared drive, and can change the characteristics of the boat using different cheap gears, eg., small lake, dont need top speed, so change to acceleration, big lake, lets give up acceleration and have top speed, and so on👍
Hi just a word to every one I am very impress with such high standard of work on model boats i see around world since i joined the model boats website in 2008 . It give me great pleasure to be on this website ever day and see all the model boat in such great detail and the hard work the goes in to model boats by ever one. Thank you so much for the help with my model boats .many thanks 👍👍 cliff