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>> Home > Tags > model yacht

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Gelyce class "Islay" by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 30 days ago
Hi, many years ago I was approached by the man who ran the Chateau Margot delicious wine factory to make a model of Water Pipit, one of the smaller Gelyce class yacht tenders built by Camper and Nicholson. They di some at 50 foot and a few at 38 foot. Currently out there and nicely restored is Islay, which I think may be Water Pipet in a later itteration, since it was once restored and subsequently neglected by Ugo Baravalle, at the time Italy's 5th richest man and a gent who actually offered to show me round his vast collection on Elba very graciously. I never heard from the wine mazn again and so couldn't tap him for a deposit to finance the trip to Italy. Project cancelled, Baravalle apologised to, life went on. Now, I find I would rather like to do the model for myself, with all the lovely golden interior work. To do this, the construction would have to be more like the original steamed timbers and double diagonal planking, rather than my usual 3mm ply bulkheads. So, my question is...has anyone ever built a hull in this way, as a shell, more than a glorified Aerokits/Veron kit? I haven't, so I'm looking for any hints, tricks, warnings you may have. Here's the boat. You can see the appeal. Cheers, Martin

can anybody reconise this hull by twofloats12 Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 2 months ago
i picked it up as a project lol 45 1/4" or 1150mm beam 38" or 965mm lwl gussing around 14 3/4 or 375mm a friend has susjested a German Sprinta model which is a 1:6 scale model of the Dehler Sprinta Sport yacht i looked at this model but the back is not cut away and mine seems to have places for the winches any information would be a great help

Cheap motor for a quick fit, but what prop gents?... by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi Doug, yes, very similar sizes. (Nice finish on your Sea Hornet, btw. Mine cost me 99p off ebay!). My drill motor is from a 14.4Volt one, if I can find it! OR, I'll buy a 20,000 rev one from ebay. Roughly the same I should think. I'm going brushed because I have ESCs to use up, apart from the one or two for the Taycols, thanks to your kind provision of electro-boards. I was thinking 30-35mm prop. so that's good to have confirmed. This is actually the first full installation I've ever done in a model boat. My Sea Urchin is free running, the Crash Tender was installed by my Dad with REP single channel stuff and I once put a rudder servo in my brother's borrowed 575 yacht. Everything else (and that's a lot) has been static. Just got the steering servo mounted and made a sweet wee box for the Rx to help prevent it getting wet. Motor next. Cheers, Martin

SuzyQ by Dampfgerd Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 3 months ago
I find in web not one photo of a model. She is nearly 1 meter long and become 2x brushless from me Speranza is a scale model of a fast motor yacht from Renato "Sonny " Levi

Spektrum, new, useless... by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
You're painting a worst case picture. I'm not against insurance as such, just the expensive nonsense after years of a very reasonable 5 pounds a year with MAP. Why couldn't whoever bought out MAP keep with the insurers. Things go up, sure, but 5 quid to 34? Where did that come from? I don't want to join a club, any club. Why can't I get insurance on my own account? It's stinks of a con to me. And as for insuring a model yacht or effectively a glorified toy boat, that's going too far. I don't do fast boats, not interested. And frankly, if Johnny has his hands in the water of a dedicated model boat pond, that's his parents look-out. If he puts his foot on the road in front of a cyclist he gets no protection. How did we ever manage to become enthusiasts in the good old days when we could sail anywhere and not worry about it? Martin

help required by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
Good on you, Jacko, for retaining Braine gear. It always looks so elegant on an old model yacht. It appears to be bread and butter construction too. But at 60" long it's no tiddler. It'll look superb on the water. I have an ex Braine steered pre-War Marblehead which I have sanded and repainted. Saving up for sails now! The Marblehead is, of course, like all of them, 50" long. Did you find out what class she is? Martin

Gwen M Model Yacht by kmbcsecretary Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
Have found a copy of the magazine if it helps http://www.magazineexchange.co.uk/marine-modelling-magazine-... Ron

Gwen M Model Yacht by ModelHover Lieutenant   Posted: 3 months ago
Has anyone built a schooner (or skipjack) named Gwen M from the Marine Modelling plan No.MAR 2556 and featured in their magazine in the July 1996 issue ? I am trying to ascertain the weight of the lead keel and how it is fixed. Also I am looking for photos of the interior of the cabin to show the arrangement of servos for rudder and sails. Any help would be appreciated.

Evie Rose by Kipper Lieutenant   Posted: 4 months ago
[Score: 10/10] 39"/4600g Evie Rose Powered by NiMH (6v) 2Amp/h Batteries - Comments: The Soling Class is the largest class affiliated with the American Model Yachting Association (AMYA). It is a one-design class. My boat is reputed to be the last one sold in the UK. The first pic is how it came to me, the second pic was taken after a makeover.

Charging NiMhs, one for Doug?... by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 months ago
Evenin' Martin, Oh dear oh dear oh dear! 😲 There is some good advice above, but maybe not optimally expressed for use by a Luddite! Sorry guys but this might be a relatively long post to separate the wheat from the chaff, explode a few myths and resolve this little conundrum of Martin's! One thing at a time! NUMBER1. THE RADIO- Dear Martin: Whatever possessed a self confessed Luddite and Scrooge like you to spring a large chunk of your hard earned pension on one of the most expensive and complex RC sets on the market in the first place???? I bought a Spektrum DX6 on impulse a few years ago while strolling around Conrad here in Munich. I've regretted it ever since. In retrospect it was way too expensive >600€, and complex. It is intended for the Fly Boys, as unfortunately most sets are these days. I have still not successfully programmed it to do what I want to do, instead of what it is pre-programmed to do for helis and fixed wing aircraft. Not even with it's own Spektrum RX, let alone a 'foreign' RX like Orange. So I have not yet risked it in a model. Definitely NOT my Catalina. Since then I have bought a Turnigy I6. Which does the same as the Spektrum, works fine with my Orange RX with giro for the Catalina😉, cost only 69€ (is now available for around 33 quid😡) and within a few hours I had it programmed and tested to do all I want in my destroyer and Sea Scout.👍 In short: the Spektrum is way way way Overkill for your yacht or Fire Float or similar, where you will only ever want rudder and sail servo / winch or rudder and speed control. So flog the Spektrum and get a nice simple (and cheap😉) 2 or 4 channel set. I can't imagine you ever wanting to start building special effects into your models so 2 (max 4) channels is all you will probably ever need. Stick your Spektrum on eBay, maybe you'll get at least a 100 quid for it. If you still want to go 2.4Gig get yourself a Turnigy i6 set with RX, 6 ch but cheap enough and I can help you directly with binding and programming from experience - I have a good English manual with no Chenglish gobbledygook. If not and you still have a working 27 or 40MHz FM set (40 would be better) use that. Where you sail, all alone, who's going to bother you or be bothered? BTW: Yes the Spektrum TX IS DSM2 and DSX compatible BUT you have to tell it what you want to use!!! Frankly I think trying that with a non-Spektrum RX is risky - especially first time out and for a novice Luddite😉 NUMBER 2. THE NiMh BATTERY- Voltage is not a reliable indication of battery charge / remaining capacity. After use a battery will recover slightly when at rest and the open terminal (off load) voltage will rise, often to the nominal voltage or slightly above. This is NO indicator of remaining charge as when a load is applied the voltage will drop again rapidly, the higher the current drawn the faster the voltage drops. If it goes below 1.0V per cell the battery will be permanently damaged and never regain it's original capacity. Haverlock is dead right about batteries losing charge when not used or regularly recharged. An NiMh batt loses charge at the rate of about 1% per day so after 3 months or so you can send it to the great recycling depot in the sky and buy a new one. Periodic cycling, discharge / charge prevents / minimises this - see care hints I posted above. And yes, NiMh do have that irritating Memory effect🤔 albeit not so pronounced as with NiCads. Lipos apparently not, but I ain't seen any evidence yet - the jury is still out! Sooo - ignore the 6.37V and run the batt through a discharge and full charge cycle. If your new NiMh batt has not yet been cycled and charged I would bet that it's present capacity is about 45%. See example below (and in attached pic) of one of my new 4.8V (nom) NiMh RX batts. NUMBER 3. THE CAPACITY CHECKER - "Glorified voltmeter" ? Where did the 6.37V reading come from if not from your 'new toy'? If it is showing volts it should also be showing capacity in %age. If you received the wrong thing it's not the "bloody electrics" but the bloody nit who packed and sent it that's at fault. Before you send it back check the below😉 Send me a photo of the Checker you have and with your battery plugged in so I can see what's happening on the display. Otherwise we are all poking about in the dark (Are we back to Jules and his friend Sandy😉😲) The link I sent you was for a checker exactly the same as mine except for the labelling! As you can see in my photo, properly connected it shows the terminal voltage and the remaining capacity (charge level) of the battery pack. Forget the Nixx (=2 Ni possibilities) display, that just means 'It ain't a LiXX' (3 Li- pissibolities). Attached photo shows a brand new 4 cell NiMh RX pack 4.8V (Nominal) connected to one of my Checkers. As you can see the voltage shown is 5.19V, according to the popular 'folklore' that would seem to indicate FULL charge. Unfortunately not🤔 Capacity indication is 45% which is normal for brand new batteries in storage and transit. Explanation thereof - see above! RE: " If it can do LiPos, why not the relatively simpler NiMhs?" a) the LiPo pack has a different chemistry and construction which requires different input circuitry on the checker, b) LiPos need balancing and are fitted with Balancer Plugs which connect to the multipin connectors on the checker. Each pin connects to one cell of the LiPo so that they can be monitored individually. LiPo chargers use this to balance the cells to within 0.01V (100mV) or less by adjusting the charge / discharge currents to each cell. The checkers use this to show you the individual cell voltages and charge states. A big difference, i.e.lower V and capacity, indicates cells with faults, e.g. higher internal resistance, or a discharged pack which needs charging and balancing. NiMh packs don't usually have this facility to measure individual cells. They are thus connected to a separate input on the checker which can then only show total pack terminal voltage and capacity. BTW: if you can get it passed 'THE Management' store your battery packs in the fridge😲 The 'coolth' slows down the rate of self discharge, which is a function of the battery internal resistance, which reduces slightly with reduced temperature😉 Enough for now, back to stripping my PTB for it's Midlife Refit! Cheers, Doug 😎 PS Martin: Just saw your post about another RX. Why the hell not buy a Spektrum designed Rx guaranteed to work with their TX? Or better still; flog the Spektrum and get a nice simple Turnigy set as above, also recommended by Ron, albeit the 9 ch version. All this frigging about with 'claimed compatible' bits and pieces just wastes money and time, fogs the issue and don't prove nutt'n!

Fittings & Detail Parts by pittsfieldpete Lieutenant   Posted: 4 months ago
Wow! Harbor Models is amazing! Their selection of kits & detail parts is outstanding. Thanks for letting me know about it. There are only a few hobby shops in my area. They all have at least a few R/C boats in stock but they’re mostly the racing type. There was an excellent store called Bliss Marine over a hundred miles away in Dedham, MA (near Boston) that stocked kits & parts in addition to parts & accessories for full-size fishing boats & yachts. They stocked the whole line of Billing Boats kits & fittings as well as several other brands. I used to buy from Bliss via mail order or by phone back in the pre-Internet era but their service was super fast. Every time we’d go down to the family cottage near Nantasket Beach in Hull, MA I always stopped at Bliss. I’d tell my wife I’d only be in the store for “a few minutes” but she knew my “few minutes” would almost always be at least an hour. Sadly, not only is Bliss Marine long gone but so is the Hull cottage. It was damaged beyond repair during hurricane Bob in 1991. The decision was made not to rebuild it & the lot it stood on was sold to a neighbor. Sigh. But I digress. Fortunately I found this fantastic website! Although I signed up just a short time ago I’ve read dozens of interesting posts & have received quick answers to my questions from other friendly Model Boats members. This site is a goldmine! Thanks for your fast, helpful reply! Pete

drum sail winch questions... by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 months ago
Hmmm, seems whatever I do I need to tie more knots to use either a ring (as per Havelock's video) or a bowsie. The knots are tied in the string on the winch drum and that was a pain to get the tension right, so I'm thinking just a piece of slit tube to get over the string, then crimp up with electrical contact pliers for a good crimp. Still waiting for the battery pack to arrive for the RC and servos. Then I have to bind the Orange Rx. to the Spektrum Tx....ugh! I got a biddliboop from the Tx. when I put the batteries in and turned it on and a light came on in a line of lights. Fancy, this modern stuff, innit? First time the Tx. has ever been right out of the box in about 5 years since I bought it, ostensibly for a model aircraft. But aircraft are too expensive to insure, join clubs, etc., hence my switch to yachts. Just as involving as aircraft (wind strength, direction, sail trim and all that jazz), but more interesting than watching a power boat trolling round endlessly. At least, that's the plan Martin

Council madness... by Rookysailor Commander   Posted: 5 months ago
Hi Martin, Cannot understand anybody who thinks that ducks will be 'upset' by a model boat, I sail at BMMMS club water, which is in Clarence park lido in Bury. We have loads of ducks, they have just had their young 'very cute', plus many coot's and geese, and we sail many boats/yachts and we live in harmony with the wildfowl, they do not mind as long as we don't go to near.😊 I think you should get a r/c duck,👍 that may please the duck lady..... Cheers, Peter

Various PLans for sale by merchant67 Seaman   Posted: 5 months ago
I have the following plans available for sale:- Tug Jan by SMB-Bauplan 1:25 two sheets £12.50 MV Benarty by Nexus Plans 1/96 six sheets £25.00 Clan Ross by Martins Models 1/96 two sheets £15.00 SS Jason by Model Maker Plans service 1/16" to 1 foot 2 sheets £15.00 International 6 metre Class model yacht by Marine Modelling 1 sheet £10.00 Fairey Marine Huntsman by Vic Smeed 1 1/2" to 1 foot two sheets £15.00 ClochLight Clyde Puffer Model Maker plans 7 sheets £25.00 SS Chelford 3 island Steamer 1/8" to 1 foot 3 sheets £15.00 Associazione Navimodellisti Bolognesi Agip Livorno Scale 1:200 5 sheets £20.00 Any one interested or would like to make an offer please let me know. Many Thanks

Location correction by alan20 Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 5 months ago
The google maps insert for the club shows an incorrect location. I do not know how to amend this but the correct co-ordinates are -33.874296,150.713729. Physical address is 205 Adams Road Luddenham NSW Australia. The club now has 72 members, sails every Sunday from 8:30 am to 2:00pm featuring all scale models and all classes of yacht. There is a group of DF95 owners who sail every Wednesday from 9:am to 1:30pm