Good on you, Jacko, for retaining Braine gear. It always looks so elegant on an old model yacht. It appears to be bread and butter construction too. But at 60" long it's no tiddler. It'll look superb on the water. I have an ex Braine steered pre-War Marblehead which I have sanded and repainted. Saving up for sails now! The Marblehead is, of course, like all of them, 50" long. Did you find out what class she is? Martin
Has anyone built a schooner (or skipjack) named Gwen M from the Marine Modelling plan No.MAR 2556 and featured in their magazine in the July 1996 issue ? I am trying to ascertain the weight of the lead keel and how it is fixed. Also I am looking for photos of the interior of the cabin to show the arrangement of servos for rudder and sails. Any help would be appreciated.
[Score: 10/10] 39"/4600g Evie Rose Powered by NiMH (6v) 2Amp/h Batteries - Comments: The Soling Class is the largest class affiliated with the American Model Yachting Association (AMYA). It is a one-design class. My boat is reputed to be the last one sold in the UK. The first pic is how it came to me, the second pic was taken after a makeover.
Evenin' Martin, Oh dear oh dear oh dear! 😲 There is some good advice above, but maybe not optimally expressed for use by a Luddite! Sorry guys but this might be a relatively long post to separate the wheat from the chaff, explode a few myths and resolve this little conundrum of Martin's! One thing at a time! NUMBER1. THE RADIO- Dear Martin: Whatever possessed a self confessed Luddite and Scrooge like you to spring a large chunk of your hard earned pension on one of the most expensive and complex RC sets on the market in the first place???? I bought a Spektrum DX6 on impulse a few years ago while strolling around Conrad here in Munich. I've regretted it ever since. In retrospect it was way too expensive >600€, and complex. It is intended for the Fly Boys, as unfortunately most sets are these days. I have still not successfully programmed it to do what I want to do, instead of what it is pre-programmed to do for helis and fixed wing aircraft. Not even with it's own Spektrum RX, let alone a 'foreign' RX like Orange. So I have not yet risked it in a model. Definitely NOT my Catalina. Since then I have bought a Turnigy I6. Which does the same as the Spektrum, works fine with my Orange RX with giro for the Catalina😉, cost only 69€ (is now available for around 33 quid😡) and within a few hours I had it programmed and tested to do all I want in my destroyer and Sea Scout.👍 In short: the Spektrum is way way way Overkill for your yacht or Fire Float or similar, where you will only ever want rudder and sail servo / winch or rudder and speed control. So flog the Spektrum and get a nice simple (and cheap😉) 2 or 4 channel set. I can't imagine you ever wanting to start building special effects into your models so 2 (max 4) channels is all you will probably ever need. Stick your Spektrum on eBay, maybe you'll get at least a 100 quid for it. If you still want to go 2.4Gig get yourself a Turnigy i6 set with RX, 6 ch but cheap enough and I can help you directly with binding and programming from experience - I have a good English manual with no Chenglish gobbledygook. If not and you still have a working 27 or 40MHz FM set (40 would be better) use that. Where you sail, all alone, who's going to bother you or be bothered? BTW: Yes the Spektrum TX IS DSM2 and DSX compatible BUT you have to tell it what you want to use!!! Frankly I think trying that with a non-Spektrum RX is risky - especially first time out and for a novice Luddite😉 NUMBER 2. THE NiMh BATTERY- Voltage is not a reliable indication of battery charge / remaining capacity. After use a battery will recover slightly when at rest and the open terminal (off load) voltage will rise, often to the nominal voltage or slightly above. This is NO indicator of remaining charge as when a load is applied the voltage will drop again rapidly, the higher the current drawn the faster the voltage drops. If it goes below 1.0V per cell the battery will be permanently damaged and never regain it's original capacity. Haverlock is dead right about batteries losing charge when not used or regularly recharged. An NiMh batt loses charge at the rate of about 1% per day so after 3 months or so you can send it to the great recycling depot in the sky and buy a new one. Periodic cycling, discharge / charge prevents / minimises this - see care hints I posted above. And yes, NiMh do have that irritating Memory effect🤔 albeit not so pronounced as with NiCads. Lipos apparently not, but I ain't seen any evidence yet - the jury is still out! Sooo - ignore the 6.37V and run the batt through a discharge and full charge cycle. If your new NiMh batt has not yet been cycled and charged I would bet that it's present capacity is about 45%. See example below (and in attached pic) of one of my new 4.8V (nom) NiMh RX batts. NUMBER 3. THE CAPACITY CHECKER - "Glorified voltmeter" ? Where did the 6.37V reading come from if not from your 'new toy'? If it is showing volts it should also be showing capacity in %age. If you received the wrong thing it's not the "bloody electrics" but the bloody nit who packed and sent it that's at fault. Before you send it back check the below😉 Send me a photo of the Checker you have and with your battery plugged in so I can see what's happening on the display. Otherwise we are all poking about in the dark (Are we back to Jules and his friend Sandy😉😲) The link I sent you was for a checker exactly the same as mine except for the labelling! As you can see in my photo, properly connected it shows the terminal voltage and the remaining capacity (charge level) of the battery pack. Forget the Nixx (=2 Ni possibilities) display, that just means 'It ain't a LiXX' (3 Li- pissibolities). Attached photo shows a brand new 4 cell NiMh RX pack 4.8V (Nominal) connected to one of my Checkers. As you can see the voltage shown is 5.19V, according to the popular 'folklore' that would seem to indicate FULL charge. Unfortunately not🤔 Capacity indication is 45% which is normal for brand new batteries in storage and transit. Explanation thereof - see above! RE: " If it can do LiPos, why not the relatively simpler NiMhs?" a) the LiPo pack has a different chemistry and construction which requires different input circuitry on the checker, b) LiPos need balancing and are fitted with Balancer Plugs which connect to the multipin connectors on the checker. Each pin connects to one cell of the LiPo so that they can be monitored individually. LiPo chargers use this to balance the cells to within 0.01V (100mV) or less by adjusting the charge / discharge currents to each cell. The checkers use this to show you the individual cell voltages and charge states. A big difference, i.e.lower V and capacity, indicates cells with faults, e.g. higher internal resistance, or a discharged pack which needs charging and balancing. NiMh packs don't usually have this facility to measure individual cells. They are thus connected to a separate input on the checker which can then only show total pack terminal voltage and capacity. BTW: if you can get it passed 'THE Management' store your battery packs in the fridge😲 The 'coolth' slows down the rate of self discharge, which is a function of the battery internal resistance, which reduces slightly with reduced temperature😉 Enough for now, back to stripping my PTB for it's Midlife Refit! Cheers, Doug 😎 PS Martin: Just saw your post about another RX. Why the hell not buy a Spektrum designed Rx guaranteed to work with their TX? Or better still; flog the Spektrum and get a nice simple Turnigy set as above, also recommended by Ron, albeit the 9 ch version. All this frigging about with 'claimed compatible' bits and pieces just wastes money and time, fogs the issue and don't prove nutt'n!
Wow! Harbor Models is amazing! Their selection of kits & detail parts is outstanding. Thanks for letting me know about it. There are only a few hobby shops in my area. They all have at least a few R/C boats in stock but they’re mostly the racing type. There was an excellent store called Bliss Marine over a hundred miles away in Dedham, MA (near Boston) that stocked kits & parts in addition to parts & accessories for full-size fishing boats & yachts. They stocked the whole line of Billing Boats kits & fittings as well as several other brands. I used to buy from Bliss via mail order or by phone back in the pre-Internet era but their service was super fast. Every time we’d go down to the family cottage near Nantasket Beach in Hull, MA I always stopped at Bliss. I’d tell my wife I’d only be in the store for “a few minutes” but she knew my “few minutes” would almost always be at least an hour. Sadly, not only is Bliss Marine long gone but so is the Hull cottage. It was damaged beyond repair during hurricane Bob in 1991. The decision was made not to rebuild it & the lot it stood on was sold to a neighbor. Sigh. But I digress. Fortunately I found this fantastic website! Although I signed up just a short time ago I’ve read dozens of interesting posts & have received quick answers to my questions from other friendly Model Boats members. This site is a goldmine! Thanks for your fast, helpful reply! Pete
Hmmm, seems whatever I do I need to tie more knots to use either a ring (as per Havelock's video) or a bowsie. The knots are tied in the string on the winch drum and that was a pain to get the tension right, so I'm thinking just a piece of slit tube to get over the string, then crimp up with electrical contact pliers for a good crimp. Still waiting for the battery pack to arrive for the RC and servos. Then I have to bind the Orange Rx. to the Spektrum Tx....ugh! I got a biddliboop from the Tx. when I put the batteries in and turned it on and a light came on in a line of lights. Fancy, this modern stuff, innit? First time the Tx. has ever been right out of the box in about 5 years since I bought it, ostensibly for a model aircraft. But aircraft are too expensive to insure, join clubs, etc., hence my switch to yachts. Just as involving as aircraft (wind strength, direction, sail trim and all that jazz), but more interesting than watching a power boat trolling round endlessly. At least, that's the plan Martin
Hi Martin, Cannot understand anybody who thinks that ducks will be 'upset' by a model boat, I sail at BMMMS club water, which is in Clarence park lido in Bury. We have loads of ducks, they have just had their young 'very cute', plus many coot's and geese, and we sail many boats/yachts and we live in harmony with the wildfowl, they do not mind as long as we don't go to near.😊 I think you should get a r/c duck,👍 that may please the duck lady..... Cheers, Peter
I have the following plans available for sale:- Tug Jan by SMB-Bauplan 1:25 two sheets £12.50 MV Benarty by Nexus Plans 1/96 six sheets £25.00 Clan Ross by Martins Models 1/96 two sheets £15.00 SS Jason by Model Maker Plans service 1/16" to 1 foot 2 sheets £15.00 International 6 metre Class model yacht by Marine Modelling 1 sheet £10.00 Fairey Marine Huntsman by Vic Smeed 1 1/2" to 1 foot two sheets £15.00 ClochLight Clyde Puffer Model Maker plans 7 sheets £25.00 SS Chelford 3 island Steamer 1/8" to 1 foot 3 sheets £15.00 Associazione Navimodellisti Bolognesi Agip Livorno Scale 1:200 5 sheets £20.00 Any one interested or would like to make an offer please let me know. Many Thanks
The google maps insert for the club shows an incorrect location. I do not know how to amend this but the correct co-ordinates are -33.874296,150.713729. Physical address is 205 Adams Road Luddenham NSW Australia. The club now has 72 members, sails every Sunday from 8:30 am to 2:00pm featuring all scale models and all classes of yacht. There is a group of DF95 owners who sail every Wednesday from 9:am to 1:30pm
Thanks, Doug, KMB. I don't actually know what Dacron line is! I have some nice braided stuff, which doesn't stretch. It reminds me of the stuff my Dad used to get from RS Components to renew the tuning cord on old radios, you know the ones that went "weeoowah oop", when you twiddled the knob on Medium wave mainly. I got 10 metres of it for pennies. I haven't come up with any method for attaching the sheets to the loop yet. Some kind of fancy knot, I'm assuming. Just need mainsail and one jib. The jib is loose footed on Vanity, as are umpteen staysails, but I am not going to shoot the goose that laid the golden egg where my wife making sails is concerned and get greedy. A topsail would look nice though. I am a real beginner with this sail control stuff. My only experience of a model yacht was an old plastic 575 of my brother's, which was only rigged for rudder control. The sails went where they felt best! But I had hours of fun with it on the river outside my house. I have a finished Veron Veronica in the loft, which I'll get going when I've done Vanity. That'll probably just get rudder control. I also have a huge and lovely pre-War Marblehead which a dear friend gave me. That will have to be done with all sails and rudder control, though quite where I'll sail it I don't know. Cheers, Martin
Haverlock, my Orange receiver can run on anything from 3V to 9. something apparently. Just seen a good Aussie review of it and he loved it. Reckons there are thousands out there all working great, albeit on shorter ranges. It's DSM2 like my Spektrum TX, but I don't have a clue what that's all about, as long as the TX and Rx are the same, I presume. Norman, you sound like me. I have had loads of different models. Never finished an aircraft because of the cost of insurance and club membership, but I have had them whilst deciding and I built an R/C car before there were such things as kits for them, but couldn't afford a working engine. Mine ticked over smoothly or screamed its nuts off, but nought in between. But the car had suspension from a leaf spring aft to adjustable torsion bars for the front. The spine of the chassis was two strips of stair runner making a backbone from which all else hung. It went very well if I could find anywhere big enough for the screaming engine! But I came back to boats as being cheap and yachts as they don't need lots of lecktrickery, which I hate, although I have got some models of historic speedboats in which I want to fit equally historic motors of which I have a small collection. Truth is, like my slot cars, I prefer to restore than create these days, although I have made the masters for dozens of car body kits over the years and am currently finishing a 1/6th scale Vincent Black Shadow pattern all in brass. Great to know that a holder full of four AA rechargeables will do for the boat. Thanks for that info. Now to see if I can find that nice new box full of Tx! Oh dear, I've moved since I bought it. Cheers, Martin
Not sure about the 6v in your winch Martin all I can say is one of my many many models (boats planes and cars) is a one meter racing class yacht, now I can't remember for the life of me which winch servo I fitted, it was 15 years ago. I do not race the yacht now just pootle about the lake and all I have ever used is four Duracell AA 4.8v batteries (other makes are available) in the boat serving the receiver the winch and rudder, the winch works fine, ok in strong winds if tacking X wind the sails may not draw in quickly but I normally wait until I'm turning and the boat is momentarily into wind before winching in (hope that makes sense). I'm sure the serious racing boys will be able to explain further. I can remember using a dedicated 4.8v battery serving my retract servo in a large scale aircraft many years ago but can't remember at the mo' how it was wired into the system. Norman.
Hi all, Whilst I can make almost anything, I have absolutely no idea how to install modern R/C gear in a model, much less a yacht. I have an Orange Rx which has 6 channels for some reason, but I only need 2. BTW, when did functions become channels? I grew up with proportional being 2 channels per function. Anyway, that's a 2.4 doodah. I have a GWS sail winch a drum jobbie. I also have a few different servos for the rudder, but I don't know what voltage they are. I will stuff 4 pen cells in a holder and therefore get 4.8 volts, is that right? This will all fit a treat on a removable piece of ply which I can secure with a slider at one end and a wingnut at tother. Said ply with all gear will slide through the main companionway with that item removed. So, how do I know which servos will work for steering? Will they work with a 2.4 Gg set? Or must I buy new? Will the Rx be OK sited near the battery pack and servos? And how the hell does one "bind" the Tx to the Rx? I've had the Tx for 3 years and it ain't yet out of its box. It's a Spektrum Dx5e. I'm using NiMhs in the battery pack as I don't understand LiPos and will only be using the yacht occasionally. And I can charge NiMhs with a wall charger. I have fancy metallic blue thing that does everything, but the Chenglish instructions defeated me, so it hasn't been out of its box either. (Get the impression I ain't big on working models, folks?) Any info/instructions/encouragement gratefully recieved. And anything helpful about rigging the damned thing under the deck is welcome too! No idea where to start there. I have very limited space through companionways and deck lights which are all removable, but smallish, if evenly spaced. Cheers, Martin
Oliver Tiger and Gannet? Oh be still my beating heart! I remember seeing a Gannet and a Channel Island Special at Victoria when I was a kid with my Dad. Even he was impressed. And Olive Cockman had a Westbury Seal she'd built herself and fitted in a large cruiser, which she used for straight running and steering, where you nominated a spot on the lake side and set off your model with a fixed rudder. The nearer you got to your nominated spot the more points you got. Never hear of it these days. R/C doesn't appeal to me apart from steering a yacht, although free-sailing is still appealing to me. I have engines, but I haven't got any in a boat as I could never get the things to start. I just like having them around and running them screwed to an outbuilding, when they'll run! I can't be doing with all the fuss of LiPos and charging them properly. Too expensive, so it's NiMhs for me, charged in a wall charger. but it's really building stuff I like to do. Martin