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>> Home > Tags > model

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'VOYAGER of the SEAS' RC Cruise Ship by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 10 hours ago
Truly captures the look of the real model. The detail is very good and it is a credit to Paul that the model actually sails with all the cabin etc detail above the waterline, the sign of a real master of his craft.

Solent Class Lifeboat "Douglas Currie" by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 10 hours ago
Very realistic and nicely sailed model. The Solent Class were not fast afloat boats and had a max speed of about 9 knots so its nice to see a scale model sailing at a realistic speed. Well done and thanks for sharing the build and final on the water video

Unusual and fun by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 11 hours ago
Good to see models that will attract the younger generation as well as amuse us of more senior years. Thanks for sharing

Sea Queen Prop shaft by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 11 hours ago
Hi AndyG Not sure what type of coupling was supplied but I use a common Universal coupling on my 48" Sea Queen and use a brushless 42 size 850Kv water cooled motor of 700 watts and it is happy driving a Prop Shop prop of 42mm at 45 amp on full throttle. Power is from an 11.1v Lipo of at least 2200 mA but Nimhs would work, just not as fast and less duration. My motor is mounted in the main cabin and I have no problem with the prop shaft. Originally designed for IC power so perhaps you have heard of problems when we used such powerful and not so well controlled devices. My model goes on the plane very easily and any more power would make it unstable. Pics attached to show my set up. You can just see the coupling in front of the motor.

Maiden Voyage! by jarvo Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 day ago
What a superb result. A credit to your determination and modeling skills. She looks brilliant in the photos but in the video the poise on the water makes it all worthwhile. Mark

Fish boxes by GrahamP74 Captain   Posted: 1 day ago
Made a stack of boxes and some that I will add some fish too also! Julie Jean is a trawler that my Dad fitted out and put the engines in and fellow modelmaker Ballast will note the nod given to his own model of DH142.

Palaform Griffon 600 - Police by tonymid Apprentice   Posted: 1 day ago
Fran Oakey designed the Griffon 600 as a wooden model. Originally called the MM600 it used 2mm liteply without any lightning holes. It is heavier than the Depron version but will operate in rougher water and higher wind speeds. Takes the knocks better too.

Memorial by GrahamP74 Captain   Posted: 1 day ago
As a mark of respect of the loss and for a fellow modelmaker the stack of fish boxes I have made for Emily PII has one from DH142...

Maiden Voyage! by Skydive130 Admiral   Posted: 1 day ago
So, today was the day, she sailed wonderfully on a cold crisp Needham Lake nr Stowmarket Suffolk. The water level is very low at the moment, but got away with it! The only thing I need to do is try and get a bit more rudder throw as the turning circle is quite big, however with careful throttle use she really does look the part. So, yes, I am very pleased with how this model has turned out, on the most part a joy to build. Thank you to everyone who has taken time to comment on this build. Trying to download the video thats been edited. I might have to post a link to it so it can be seen in full.

'VOYAGER of the SEAS' RC Cruise Ship by rolfman2000 Admiral   Posted: 1 day ago
I saw it, and spoke to Paul the builder at the Warwick show last week. Its a truly amazing model, which you never seem to run out of details to see. A real credit to an amazing builder. Best wishes, Dave W 😊

Billings Zwart Zee by Brightwork Admiral   Posted: 2 days ago
Hope you sell her...this is my model of Zwarte Zee

Electronics Down Below (5) by NPJ Captain   Posted: 2 days ago
This time I will try to remember to put in the ‘source’ information on the bits and pieces I use........... In the most recent piece I should have included exciters/transducers are Dayton Audio DAEX 25VT -4, 4 Ohms – 20 Watt pair, obtained from Sound Imports Netherlands and very quickly as well. The sound unit is a Mtroniks Digisound 5M diesel sound, available all over the place. Now to look at where I am at. Exciters are in place as high up the Hull as possible, but remembering the Deck level. Used the adhesive pads as supplied after wiping that part of the Hull with Meths and Silicone adhesive to keep in place as well as using the wiring tidies from Modelsport Ltd., for the cabling. (Pic 1+2) Before I start the motor and controller wiring I changed the platform ‘up front’ (pic3) with a piece of thin ply which I have given a couple of coats of varnish to waterproof. Then I thought to myself “why am I waterproofing this when, if it gets that wet, it will have gone to the bottom and be useless anyway”! (Pics 4) However, the platform gives a little more choice in terms of layout of other components and my plan for them is not really settled yet. I am concerned about the stern and possible swamping, but it currently seems the best place for the upgraded battery. (Pic5 ) Whilst talking batteries, I have gone for a separate battery supply for the receiver and hope to use the Bec supply for running other less critical items. Also the fitting of the battery in the stern bay drew my attention to the rudder servo for a couple of reasons. First is I am still considering increasing the size of the rudders and I am assuming that will increase the strain on the servo. The servo supplied is a standard issue and not water resistant so I have gone for an upgrade as shown(Pic6) That gives torque increase of 17Kg/cm over the Hobby Engine S1040C and has metal gears, metal control arm and waterproof for 20grams extra weight. Second is the closeness to the new battery position. So I was going to alter the servo arm setup anyway and the new metal arm suits this well. Maybe my ‘tutors’ will consider all this to be a little ‘over the top’ but I do so enjoy messing......................... New Servo DS 3218 by AYANI from Amazon. (Pics 6/7 ) Following that distraction, back to the front end and the Motor/Mixer placing and wiring. Now a little time ago I drew a plan to see what could go where and it came out that most of the ‘bits’ would go in the front bay with motors to be wired once power was brought forward, followed by the Esc/Mixer. (Pic 8) At that time I bought a P94 dual esc/mixer from Action Electronics and got the 20 amp version to be on the safe side................. My ‘guardians’ did point out this was ‘over-kill’ but I had already got it. Now, when placing the unit on the mounting board I found that the heatsinks made it too high to fit in the Hull! So being a spoilt brat only child I ordered the 10 amp version and as usual it came very quickly from up here in Bangor. ( Will keep the other one for the next project............Happy Hunter??) Unboxed it and it looked just the same, heatsinks and all. (Pic 9/10 ) So at that moment there was a bit of a set-back so I rang Component Shop at Bangor, they said “take the heat sinks off and you have a P94 lite”! Such a simple answer and such a nice chap. (Pic 11 ) Now a quick 'measure up' before I have a glass of wine (Pic 12) and does it all fit...? Well it appears to at the moment! (Pic 13) Next time really going to screw down the components under the forward hatch and wire it up. NPJ

Billings Zwart Zee by Romeo4 Apprentice   Posted: 2 days ago
Old model, partially built including fittings kit. Hull is wooden planks not plastic moulding. Make me an offer

MV TEAKWOOD by RHBaker Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 days ago
Thinking back over this part of the project, felt it might be of interest to others considering modifying a hull to summarize my experiences: 1) Cutting and modifying a hull to a different profile seems intimidating, but using planning then care, using a simple selection of workshop tools and adhesives, it is quite within the skill of the average modeler. 2) This is the second proprietary glass-fibre hull I have used. Both required a “spindle” of bulkheads and longitudinal stringers to hold the hull rigid and to which can also be fastened the electrical / mechanical equipment needed for the model. 3) Have tried two approaches for the spindle. The first was to totally assemble it off the hull, get it as rigid as possible, fit it into the hull and epoxy into place. The second was to fit the keel reinforcement to the hull then epoxy the bulkheads and remainder of the spindle to it. That spindle remained relatively flexible until finally installed. 4) On reflection, think it is best to fully assemble the spindle, taking care to get it true and then fit it to the hull. The relatively flexible hull can then be adjusted to fit the more rigid spindle and kept true. 5) Used the relatively flexible spindle arrangement on the Teakwood and have spent many hours getting the bulwarks and deck frames leveled and lined up satisfactorily. The more rigid spindle would have helped mitigate this by ensuring the frame was accurate before trying to adapt it to the hull. Have now finished all the modifications needed to the hull and the result shows that this type of transformation can be successfully completed..

Hull sheeting commences by Skydive130 Admiral   Posted: 2 days ago
Finished the chine rails this morning and have started to add the 1/32 ply sheeting. Lovely working with such thin ply, it conforms easily! May have got s little further but had to go and get a new car tyre, money I’d rather spend on model stuff lol