Just back from the romantic weekend and as a little surprise my wife took me to the National museum of the Royal Navy Hartlepool if your ever in the area go along what a brilliant day out plenty to see and do and the Hartlepool museum has some lovely model ships on display ,photos to follow, of the museum not of the romantic weekend
Hi nutrunner and Mark If this is a NiMh or NiCad battery I suspect if it is completely flat and has been stored for some years in this condition it will not take a charge. My experience is that even if you can split the battery and resurrect each cell they will never hold any voltage under load. If you can find the local club you mentioned in another post there will be an expert available who will advise the best way forward. I suspect your best option is to buy a new battery. Model cars and planes use the same batteries and there will be a local shop. Good luck Dave
Hi Alan, I bought mine at a model engineering show, a pinstriping set by 'BEUGLER' a USA company. My kit has three sizes of pinstrip,1/16,1/8 and 3/32, they have a wide selection of sizes, try them on the website, not cheap but good quality. Peter
[Score: 8/10] 28"/1000g Phantom Single Propellor (3 Blade 35mm) Direct Drive to a Turnigy D2836 1100kv (3 Blade) Powered by LiPoly (7.4v) 2Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through HK 30 A Boat ESC ESC - Comments: Bought it as partly build, and had to take it more or less apart to make it straight. Used a PU glue for the first set of planking, what a mess but it's strong. First trails on water showed that the balance was wrong so have to re-arrange the electronics. Unfortunately the trails also revealed that I had missed something with the sealing (my wife used the same materials for her Classic without any problems) so first of all I'll have to strip parts of the mahogany plating down and redo it :-( before I'll do any thing more on this model.
[Score: 7/10] 15"/500g Skimmer Single Propellor Direct Drive to a Speed 400 / 6Volt Powered by LiPoly (7.4v) 1Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through Robbe air control 819 Lipo ESC - Comments: Skimmer built from Model Boat plans back in 2010 (Glynn Guest). I use a 5.5"x4.5" prop. It is hard to control as it tends to skew to the side due to the twist of the drive unit, I think I didn't gave it enough angel of the motor mount. If I was to do another one, I would add small rails on the bottom to give it just a bit more direction stability.
Thanks Dave, I will do a build blog when the model is finished. It is a Jenny by Aero naut. It is supposedly a simple model to make, and so far it is proving to be so, except for a few parts of the construction which are not very well explained in the instructions. If there is the possibility of misinterpreting some instruction, guess which method I use? It's only when I get to the next stage that I find I have gone wrong! I do read the instructions first but some parts are, to me at least, unclear. I have been able to overcome the problems I have created, although the model will only be 99.99% as per the plan. I have some photos of the build so far but not a complete reference. Chris
[Score: 7/10] 19"/1100g Dolphin 16 (19) Capable of 10mph and a runtime of 20mins Single Propellor (3 Blade 30mm) Direct Drive to a Graupner Speed 600 8.4v (3 Blade) Powered by NiMH (7.2v) 3Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through Chinese 320amp (10Amps) ESC - Comments: This is the Meccano Magazine January 1967 issue plan, built in balsa. I didn't do a build blog as the construction is well covered on the net. Started with an A4 plan and used Excel to enlarge it onto 9 A4 sheets. I chose something simple as I haven't built a boat for thirty years. Really enjoyed the build and re-learning how to overcome the problems that always arise. She is oversized being 19" long and having a 7.5" beam. She sits nicely on the water and begins to plane. Will upgrade the the battery sometime. The decking is worktop edge strip pre-glued but in future will use the unglued strips. The cabin was adapted to extend over the whole boat as there was little space for modern electrics. I will add in and out air vents as the motor will need to breathe. Also, the true model should have an upper deck and windscreen and this will be easy to add sometime in the future. Really surprised and pleased with results from aliphatic wood glue. The finish, which I am not completely happy with, due mostly to my own impatience, was achieved with Ronseal multi purpose wood filler, lightweight fibreglass laminate with Eze-Kote. Paint is Acrylics and Marine varnish. The electrics are: Acoms AR 201 Reciever, Servo Acoms AS 12, Cheap Chinese ,supposedly, 320 amp ESC and 7.2v Nimh battery pack. The Graupner Speed 600 8.4v, bought it cheaply some months ago, was already in one of my boxes and you can see the adaptation required to fit it into the boat. All the Acoms controls I picked up at a boot sale including an Acoms Techniplus Alpha Transmitter on 27mhz. Inside I used Hammerite Smooth Gold as I couldn't buy silver. Modern Hammerite is thin and squeamish and took 3 coats to provide reasonable coverage. One final rant I do like the new silicon wires but they are a nightmare to solder to a motor. I think I will use soldered connectors in future. So there we are, first model in 30 years and now so many models to build and so little time. Lessons learned...... don't be impatient.
Hi Colin. Welcome to the forum and congratulations on your good choice of model 👍. I bought all of the brass pins I used from a UK based eBay seller http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SOLID-BRASS-PANEL-PINS-15mm-20mm-2... I can't imagine that something similar would not be available in Oz, try a good joinery or cabinet makers supply outlet. I mostly used the 15mm size and used, quite surprisingly, a total of around 500 😱. These pins have a tapered head rather than a flat one so that they can be punched flush, or just below the surface of the wood very easily. This is important when pinning the side and bottom skins so that the pin hole can be filled and sanded to give a very smooth surface for finishing. Also, when pinning the thin wood strips always pre-drill the wood to stop the wood from splitting. I'm not sure if CMB supply this type but Javro, who replied earlier, may be able to confirm this. Good luck with the build and please do think about posting a build blog on this site and ask as many questions as you need to. As I discovered, the help and advice you will get will be invaluable. Rob.
Hello folks. Brand new here, so go easy! I have searched but not quite found what I am after. Apologies if I've missed the obvious. Having just finished a 36" Fireboat with my son, I am now thinking about the larger 46" version. The little boat is running a Radient Reaktor motor / ESC combo which is 3000kV with a matched ESC and 2S1P LiPo battery. Performance is pretty good, although we're still ironing out some cooling issues and vibration (old model resurrected). I am going to do the big boat 'properly' so am looking for recommendations for power, ESC and batteries. I am looking for overscale performance and tend to run on choppy water with currents (i.e. rivers😁). Thanks in advance, everyone!