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more money than sense. by jimdogge Petty Officer   Posted: 5 hours ago
Hi chaps here are a few photos of the of my Wave Princess. Never built a boat before but, she looked so lonely and abandoned l just had to do something with her. picked up the partly built hull and box of bits from Avicraft in bromley it was among a collection of old model aeroplanes l think the original builder now sails with St peter. The aft cabin was completely crushed down and somebody had given it a coat of brown stain. Not very appealing. still always been a silly sod for a pretty girl.

ASR 64ft R/C VID 2 by jbkiwi Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 8 hours ago
Boat is Scratch built 36" British Power Boat 64ft High Speed ASR Launch which belonged to the RNZAF. The launch was one of the 22 built and was shipped to NZ in 1940. It was the only one of its type in the Southern Hemisphere. Model has twin motors, ESCs, sound units etc. Has remotely switched water pump for water cooled brushless 2000kv in runner motors and remotely switched lighting. Uses 2x 2200mah 2s LiPos for drive and 1 1800mah LiPo for the pump (also a separate battery for the LED lights. Boat is built with strip planked balsa on ply frame and fiber glassed. Deck is ply, wheelhouse is varnished balsa. The colour is as it was for most of its time in the RNZAF . Took about 5 years on and off to build and finished it last year. (please ignore the time date - can't get rid of it .

HMS Campbeltown 1941, 1/96 scale by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 10 hours ago
Hi John, Attached is the old Colour Coats Naval Paints chart form White ensign Models. It's based on original navy Paint Chips apparently. Of course precisely how the colours look on your device will depend on the settings of the display! But it gives you a comparison of the colours. Here's a brief history of Cambletown, ex Buchanan D131 if you want to build the USN version. https://www.wikiwand.com/en/HMS_Campbeltown_(I42) From this it can be seen the she operated either in the Western Approaches or on the West Africa convoy routes. So I think that Medium grey (RN02) is a bit dark, more suited to North Atlantic convoy duty perhaps? I would go for Light grey RN03 or M23 Light Admiralty grey for the hull and upperworks with Medium greenish grey RN06 for the decks. If you want to go 'Cammo pattern' the Western Approaches colours for this are also in the chart. The colour coats paints are now sold by Sovereign Hobbies https://www.sovereignhobbies.co.uk/collections/colourcoats-s... I just bought a batch from their German dealer; NNT Modell 😊 Some may not be available (Discontinued) but we can probably find near equivalents; I have several 'conversion charts' for Revell, Humbrol, Tamiya etc. My dealer still had a few tins of a Discontinued colour so it's worth asking😉 Have fun, cheers, Doug 😎

HMS BRAVE BORDERER by Lyle Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 12 hours ago
I suggest you go to one of my old reports on my 48 inch Crash boat by Lyle G. The issue is most likely t5hat asn it is a MODEL it needs some extra support in full size water . A model thus NEEDS the advantage of planing strakes at the vertical hull and lower hull joint as it is a "Hard Chine design " and you may need to widen with an extra strake WIDTH though it can be thinned in its vertical configuration as it is blend into the forward hull skin. The wider chine is the secret of the MGB's Torpedo Boats the Elco's and the Higgins and the BPBoat design . Though I live in the colony of Oz I have the British Power boat 41 foot 6 inch model at 48 inches , the Vosper Fast patrol boat , the Range Safety Launch , The BPB co Whaleback at 36 inches and the Black Maurader and even the Sea Queen and ALL I/Combustion powered and all over 15 to 20 years young and ALL as well as the Keilcraft 48 inch Cras Boat all all all have this trick and all get up on the plane as the "Brave class" with its Proteus engineer was still a planing Hard Chine hull and as such it is the hull chine strakes that are so essential to the design originated by was it Georga Selman ? and Hubert Scott Payne ?. Oldies are goodies and the masters of old need to be never forgotten for their skills. Regards Lyle and best construction wishes for modifications.

U46 Tin Clockwork Submarine by Colin H. Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 13 hours ago
Mind blowing stuff, and people think modelling is easy. Great work MacTin. Let's have more of your marvellous creations. Cheers Colin.

Nomenclature... by onetenor Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 19 hours ago
Doug a quick one for you I've got a wall wart with a blown / burnt resistor. The rest is working fine and I would like to replace the resistor and put back into use with the model it belongs to. I can't read the res as its burnt black (output leads got shorted.) It's the last one in the circuit ( output lead ) Voltage up to it is 15v. It is to charge 7.4v Ncads/ Nimhs AA/AAA packs. I can't work out what the value should be. Should be simples for you if you'd be so kind as to do the maths for me. I'll luv ya forever if you do. Not literally of course but ye know warrimean. Regards John👍 No comments like ducky etc please. Oh yes remember your remarks re our local pubs? The owner of our nearest the STAR ( ex plough Still got one on roof of main windows) rang our bell. He'd seen Marg go off in an ambulance 2 days on the trot and wanted to know if he could help.( We were customers now and again) He brought a wine for Marg and a nice flask of bitter each for Ant and I. Luvverly. He stayed about 2 hours nattering and when he left he said ring him if we needed help any time. We had the same offer from a young chap who helped Marg up the path too with a mate. Our adjoining neighbour looked after their shopping. Starting to see some signs of neighbourliness again it seems.👍😁.

Nomenclature... by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 21 hours ago
Hi John, think somehow you've got the wrong end of the stick!🤔 All BECs are Battery Eliminator Circuits of one sort or another. The objective is to eliminate the separate receiver battery, sometimes necessary purely to save weight and/or space in small models. If you do that then the RX power must come from the main drive battery, which then has to supply all RX functions; servos, switched lights etc etc. Personally, if the boat / ship can carry it, I prefer to use drive batteries for just that and use separate battery for the RX and special functions. Some of which, like smokers for instance can be current gobblers. Cheers, Doug 😎 PS If you ever find a way of eliminating all batteries and still get the RX to work and the boat to move PATENT IT QUICK!! 😁 Cheers, Doug 😎 Hmmm! Maybe a raft towed behind with an array of hi-current solar panels!? 😁😁 Years ago in my work in NAVAL COMMS systems I once suggested to a shipbuilder, who was complaining about the number of antennas needed, to put some of them on a raft behind the ship 😉 Now they are doing just that with antenna buoys from submerged submarines! No credits 🤔 ... SIGH 😉

Eppleton Hall by Ishmael Petty Officer   Posted: 24 hours ago
[Score: 10/10] 39" Eppleton Hall Capable of 3mph and a runtime of 60mins Geared to a 540 MFA 919D Powered by Lead Acid (12v) 2Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through VIPER Marine 25 ESC - Comments: I am in the process of building a 32nd scale model of the paddle tug "Eppleton Hall" from scratch, for the most part. The hull is complete now and ready for fiberglass. Stay tuned for progress updates...

HMS BRAVE BORDERER by RHBaker Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 day ago
Boaty, that is one of my suspicions. My Brave is to 1:32 (about 37") whereas most seem to be 1:24 (about 54"). Am sure 3S are fine on the larger models, but on mine think they overpower it. Rowen

HMS BRAVE BORDERER by boaty Captain   Posted: 1 day ago
It is correct that brushless motors don't modulate as smoothly as brushed. I have had the same problem but now I only use brushless on my fast electrics. 3s lipos do put out a lot of power and as Brave Borderer is a scale model it could be that the speed exceeds the limitations of the hull thus when running on 2s it is more stable. Boaty😋

Elke HF 408 by Neil-S Seaman   Posted: 1 day ago
[Score: 5/10] 20"/600g Elke HF 408 Capable of 2mph Single Propellor (3 Blade) Direct Drive to a 6v (3 Blade) Powered by NiMH (7.2v) Batteries - Comments: This is a restoration project - my first radio control boat 'Elke', is a small fishing boat with plastic hull, a Graupner kit, purchased in Germany when I was serving in the Army there in 1974. I am restoring it for my grandson. It used to be a good runner with a 6v battery, small electric motor, two servos, one wired so it could move boat in reverse as well as forward. A good little sailor, light in weight and a good pond model. Had to be careful of wave height. Anyway, it has been in the garage for 40 years now so much to do. The inside is a bit of a mess and everything has a layer of dust. I will fit a speed controller and NiMH battery. But nothing too difficult so hope to have it finished for Christmas.

BRAVE BORDERER by jbkiwi Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 1 day ago
If you are using 2 ESCs/BEC/UBECs with 2 plugged into 1 receiver you should remove the red wire from one of the plugs and tape it back to the lead, as both plugged in will possibly supply too much voltage for the receiver (you are getting double the voltage from 2 different sources) and this can cause the ESC to stutter . You should have no problems with Brushless out-runner motors as with the correct match with the ESC they should be as smooth as brushed. I have dual 2000kv 28/45 in-runners (with water jackets) and twin ESCs and 2 sound units using 1 receiver in my 64ft ASR model with no problems regarding proportional control (fwd or rev). I had a 28mm O/R in a Maiami ASR and it would crawl along (but the high noise was ear wrecking so have changed it back to brushed for now. I do have a similar slight high pitched squeal at certain speeds on one motor and this may be caused by the particular motor not 'syncing'properly with the ESC (Chinese cheap ESCs and HobbyKing /made in china motors) but short of changing that motor and ESC I am just putting up with it for now. The high pitched sync noise is fairly common and sometimes not fixable, (a number of my larger planes do it and its audible from 100m away (also amplified by a hull,-nice sound box). It can depend on the way a particular motor is wound (no 2 are identical) or even magnet placement/timing, as the may be hand wound by 2 very nice Chinese ladies at different ends of a bench ( just read some of the Hobby King motor reviews ) You could try changing the frequency on the ESC if it has that option as a higher motor Kv sometimes requires a higher frequency. Also make sure your ESC is set to the correct battery cell count. If it has an auto setting that should usually work best for general applications unless you are running fancy motors. Regarding interference, make sure you keep your aerial as far as poss from the motors and ESCs (even on 2.4 - I put mine right up in the bow) and there should be no problems. I have had 2 twin engined boats (my MTB & ASR) 1 brushed and 1 brushless running side by side 10" apart using the same radio for both (same type of Rec in each boat) with no problems at all. The bow down is probably prop shaft angle (the shallower the better) but if you are using counter rotating props you could try swapping props (inward rotation to outward) and motor rotation to see if it makes a difference. Also with 2800Kv motors you should be using small props (around 28-30mm diam 3 blade) as these motors are made to rev) as on a 2s battery they will be turning at around 20,000 dry and perhaps 18,000 wet (depending on prop) and if you load them too much they will cook with no cooling (assuming they are around 28mm dia ?) Only other thought - silicone couplings will squeal real loud if they slip.

"Maureen Lee" by Ishmael Petty Officer   Posted: 1 day ago
[Score: 8/10] 33"/3700g "Maureen Lee" Capable of 3mph and a runtime of 90mins Single Propellor (3 Blade 30mm) Direct Drive to a 550 type (3 Blade) Powered by NiMH (7.2v) 3Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through Unknown ESC - Comments: The “Maureen Lee” started out as a Bristol Bay ready-to-run semi-scale model of a typical European fishing cutter. Many modifications were made to her to make her look like an old, worn-out fishing boat. Factory-installed switchable work and navigation lighting means that she can even be operated at night. A 550-size electric motor and metal propeller allow for ample power. A Bristol Bay model is supplied practically fully assembled… you need only mount the two masts and install the batteries. Numerous robust details make this model look great at home or on the water! Technical specifications: Hull length: 850 mm Width: 220 mm Overall height: 737 mm Total weight: 3650 g

Gelyce class "Islay" by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 days ago
Hi, many years ago I was approached by the man who ran the Chateau Margot delicious wine factory to make a model of Water Pipit, one of the smaller Gelyce class yacht tenders built by Camper and Nicholson. They di some at 50 foot and a few at 38 foot. Currently out there and nicely restored is Islay, which I think may be Water Pipet in a later itteration, since it was once restored and subsequently neglected by Ugo Baravalle, at the time Italy's 5th richest man and a gent who actually offered to show me round his vast collection on Elba very graciously. I never heard from the wine mazn again and so couldn't tap him for a deposit to finance the trip to Italy. Project cancelled, Baravalle apologised to, life went on. Now, I find I would rather like to do the model for myself, with all the lovely golden interior work. To do this, the construction would have to be more like the original steamed timbers and double diagonal planking, rather than my usual 3mm ply bulkheads. So, my question is...has anyone ever built a hull in this way, as a shell, more than a glorified Aerokits/Veron kit? I haven't, so I'm looking for any hints, tricks, warnings you may have. Here's the boat. You can see the appeal. Cheers, Martin

HMS BRAVE BORDERER by RHBaker Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 days ago
Adjusted the transom flaps and reprogrammed the ESCs to the softest start settings, retested. Until now, the test runs did not have the duration or stability to really examine what was happening. Using 3 S batteries acceleration is rapid and a is plane quickly achieved. However, as the acceleration continues and speed increases, the bow digs in. A cloud of spray then surrounds the model as the plane is lost. Brushless motors do not modulate as smoothly as brushed and adjusting power tends to be erratic or exaggerated. This is a scale model and the propeller shaft angles are per the plans. The thrust from the propeller has two components, horizontal and vertical. The horizontal propels the vessel forward. However, the vertical component forces the stern upwards and, correspondingly, the bow down. Have moved as much weight as possible towards the stern to counteract this, limited by maintaining the correct displacement and waterline. The easiest solution is to reduce motor power, decreasing both speed and the lifting component. Decided to retry the 2S batteries as they give reduced power. A plane is again achieved, but as the motor response is more docile, it can be controlled. If the speed gets too high the bow lowers, as before, but the motor output can be more easily adjusted. Spent a pleasant half hour or so with the vessel accelerating onto and off a nice, controllable plane. Much less spray and drama than with 3S and much more controllable. Have now decided to revise plans and use 2S rather than 3 batteries. A further advantage is the motor noise is muted and now sounds more like a gas turbine than a dental drill! Finally feeling comfortable with the model. Will thus shelve further building until the late fall when sailing in Canada concludes. Want to enjoy the rest of my fleet in the meantime! Will summarize my experiences with brushless motors in another blog shortly for the benefits of others contemplating their use. After restarting the model will resurrect periodic build blogs to advise progress.