Interesting, valuable photos and drawings. More like that would be welcomed by many of us. As it would have been illegal not to have a stern light on vessels like these, for both normal passage and also when towing, perhaps that photo without one was during build before it was fitted? No draft marks either. The photo of 93 secured at Vospers (therefore probably before acceptance) shows the stern light while the early type fire monitors also show the date of the photo was early on. I also note one drawing shows the breach hose connectors aft of the cockpit that indicate it to be of later than original build. Similarly the cockpit roof cleats have been re-positioned athwartships rather than the original two being fore-and-aft. Considering their short operational life, it's surprising how many detail changes were made when all the available documentary evidence is studied! You'd think that after 60+ years all the answers would be known for sure by now!
Have started renovating old kit build of the 93/94 firefloat with no fittings. Can someone please help with paint colours, the Red and Black on hull are they both Matt. On the deck is the Dark Grey Matt non slip and are the roofs with the fire monitors the same. The rest of the roofs are they dark grey Matt or gloss. The side are they Matt or gloss light grey. Also has anyone got the main dimensions on the lift davit and the tow hook. Any other info on this build would be appreciated as am copying from two old black and white photos. The model am building is 35” long and I think 16:1 scale.
The flysky fsi6/tgy i6 upgrades to ten channels for the price of a of Data cable at £3.00 from hobbyking and a 10 channel telemetry rx £15.00 some sensers at £7.00 so it monitors main battery voltage and RPM which is very useful especially the voltage . RPM handy for prop choosing I have done my tx and now all I have to do is figure out what to do with the other channels better to many than not enough Good set and expansion at low cost 👍
I have done some more digging and I hope this confirms the colour scheme for the boat. please see the reply I received from:- Donald Smith RAF MARINE CRAFT HISTORIAN Hello, Colour scheme for the above boat is as follows. Black topsides, red oxide anti-fouled bottom separated by a 2in white waterline. All decks dark grey anti-slip deck paint, cabin sides light grey, cabin roofs white anti-slip deck paint. Mast-white, monitors red, crash ladder and davit silver/aluminium. An RAF roundel is centred 5ft 4in back from stem and 2ft 1.5in above mean waterline. The centre red disc 4in Dia., middle white circle 8in Dia., and the outer blue circle 12in Dia. The bottom of the white bow numbers should be 2ft 7in above mean waterline. They are 9in high by 6in wide with a 1.5in stroke width and a 2in separation between each number. The forward end of numbers 3 or 4 on the starboard side is 12in back from the outside of the roundel (Port side similar). The main FIRE letters are 2ft 6in high by 2ft wide with a stroke width of 6in and a separation of 6in between letters. The base of the letters is 7.5in above mean waterline. Transom numbers are 10in high by 8in wide and a stroke width of 1.5in and a separation on 2in. Base of numbers to be 1ft 5in above mean waterline. Draft marks are 3in high with a 0.5in stroke. I hope this meets with your requirements. Yours faithfully Donald Smith RAF MARINE CRAFT HISTORIAN.
Martin. The 'Deck Anti-Slip Finish' bit is on page 4 near the top. Re: Colours. As there seem to be no colour photographs or film of the boats the question of colours for the decks, cabins and roofs is open to speculation but you are quite correct to point out that the plans do not specify white for anything other than the hull markings. The cabin roofs I believe would indeed have a textured coating as the crew were required to stand on them to operate the monitors etc. but I decided not to replicate the texture as is would just look like a bad paint job! I did carefully consider the colour options when painting my boat and decided to texture the deck and paint it in the colour specified ‘BS631 RAF Light Grey’ but to leave the cabin roofs untextured and painted white as that seems to be the consensus, and to my eye it does look 'right'. It is also a great shame, as you say, that one of the most popular RAF boats were so few in numbers and not well documented or photographed during their service life. I have a suspicion that a book of drawings and specifications does exist somewhere as I have seen a few pages that appear to have 'Ministry of Supply' indexes and page references. The 'Plans & Docs' section of this site has some useful information and some 'photos and drawings but they are of very poor quality and resolution. Wouldn't it be nice if whoever has that resource were to make it generally available, I believe it's out there somewhere. We can only hope. Robbob.
Hi all, Lithium-Ion and Li-Po batteries do not take kindly to being stored long term fully charged. When they are new they will do it but after 2 to 3 years of intermittant use, can start to swell a bit and that is where the dangers start. When you give these cells the final run of the season and they show a charge in the the 3.3 to 3.5 (or so) volts per cell then they can be stored relatively safely. (This is called a holding or factory charge) Re start them with a balanced charge before you next use them. Do not constantly fast charge them as thi could induce swelling of the pack earlier. The old Ammo box is a good idea, any strong metal box will do but store them where it does not get very hot or very cold and ideally not in the house. Lipo cells are accepted as hand luggage by most airlines and a holding charge is recommended when flying, so remember to take a small 12v DC balance charger or 'Intelligent' charger with you to other countries, you will always be sure of a power supply, like a car battery even where the mains voltage is different. Small black plug-in cell monitors are readily available from places like Component shop and are a good guide to cell condition. One is these is quite essential as we use these cells more and more. Cheers, hope this helps. Ron.
Thanks Doug. Finally found the Robbe on Amazon for £42 plus delivery. I took your advice and ordered it as it appears to be the only one left anywhere. I will leave the battery until I get nearer to the re-launch. I also purchased the monitors and balance unit. There is no point in starting from total scratch. Thought it safer to follow your lead. Thanks. 😊Peter.
PS re Monitor! There are separate 'Alarm' devices (i.e. Monitor) on the market for warning you if the Lipo is approaching the critical low voltage; 3.0 - 3.2V. Look on the sites selling batteries, they usually have the Monitors as well. Some can allegedly be coupled to the feedback telemetry to warn you on the TX display, but i ain't tried that yet 😉 LiPo Safe ESCs can also be programmed to slow down or Stop when the voltage is low. This is (to me) about the only reason to buy a programming card for the ESC. Everything else; stick positions for Full Ahead, Full Astern and All Stop you can do with the TX! 😎 PPS: Before Canabus jumps on me about programming cards! 😲 There is one other reason they can be useful: If you have a Car Escape as Canabus recommends! I discovered that they are usually delivered set up to 'Brake on reverse', which means that you have to shove the gas stick backwards twice to engage reverse. Otherwise it just STOPS!! The programming card enables resetting this to 'Boat Mode' so that the motors reverse immediately you pull the stick back. If you use Marine ESCs this isn't a problem as there ain't no Brake!
Hi Andy There are many variations on the market but they all work basically the same way. Most modern Lipo ( and all Lithium based batteries) come with a small white plug with multiple contacts as well as the main power plug, usually connected to some heavy duty wires. The plug is connected to the battery negative at one end and then each pin is connected to the negative on the next battery etc. This allows the individual cell voltages to be measured. The monitors do this automatically when connected to the plug the correct way, if it doesn't light up it's probably the wrong way round. In my experience the monitor connector is not marked so you may need to try different combinations to find the correct way. You will not damage anything if you get it wrong. When correctly connected the monitor will display each cell voltage then the total voltage. This usually repeats after a few secs until you disconnect If you have a charger they have a selection of different size sockets for the number of pins and can only be inserted the correct way. You will need the manual that came with the charger to select the correct screen to display the values, but most can be found if you Google. Glad to hear you have a monitor, LiPos can be damaged if not kept balanced, or discharged below 3v ( some are higher, usually the high power versions) Hope his helps
[Score: 10/10] 38" Trojan Powered by Lead Acid (12v) 7Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through Mtronic ESC - Comments: Trojan is a graupner Tito Nero kit. Working fire monitors and now thuster. Twin shirtless drives give excellent manoeuvrability.
[Score: 10/10] 32"/4500g Sprinkles Capable of 3mph Twin Propellors (3 Blade 45mm) Geared to a Electrofly (3 Blade) Powered by NiMH (9.6v) 5Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through Viper ESC - Comments: Sprinkles is a scratch built U.S. Coast Guard PWB, patrol waterways boat. Operating features include; searchlight and running lights, revolving blue emergency light, rotating radar, and a water monitor that fires 10-15 feet and can I studied various styles of water monitors and finally decided on one that is a composite of several types. Bending the tubing was difficult, nozzle was made on Unimat. Power is from Sig "gas passer" pump. I purchased the rotating beacon on ebay and power is from 5V voltage regulator.
Hi To you all thank you for the continued advice it is making life so much easier and I do like it when the thinking is done by experts. Paul The disc idea is an absolute bonus and will be using it for sure as it takes away the need for continued measurements. Dave The water scoop is going as like you and Doug say I don't need it no working monitors for me, just a working boat would be good. I'll be using measurements given to achieve shaft positioning as at the moment I have a 2 blade prop which I think is 30mm diameter so disc to suit will be used. Doug I like KISS it's worked for me loads of times in the past but I can't help buying shining things 😁😁😁 The shim idea on the prop tube is a good one but may still go for a support even though not needed it shines 🤣🤣🤣🤣. But it may still go back to the filler piece as all depends on how difficult it is to fit the A frame support. I purchased one at 8mm for the tube and not 4mm for the shaft. I'm looking forward to the weekend to get started and even set an alarm for an early start which is unusual for me. Im off to HMS Alliance as I do volunteer guiding there otherwise Id be starting now. Will keep you all posted hopefully with good news and no more questions - well on this bit anyway 🤣🤣
OK. So it's 4" smaller than the Sea Scout I am currently renovating and upgrading from a 50ies Taycol motor to brushless! So keep the 'stuf' lightweight. When I asked the same question for the Sea Scout a few months ago I got the following advice from Canabus, who seems to have considerable experience in this field 👍 "All from Hobbyking. Motor propdrive V2 2830- 1000kv 370watts 3.175mm shaft(9190000328-0)3S or 4S lipo battery. ESC 30A car(HK-30A)( XT60 connectors required), program card (HKPROG-CARD)can be used on the larger ones in the series. Lipo battery Turnigy 1000mah 3S 30C (T1000.3s.20) 89grams 75 x 33 x 19mm or a Turnigy 1500mah 3S 25C (T1500.3S.25) 113 grams 80 x 34 x 25 mm both have XT60 connectors. Prop about a 2 blade 30mm 1.4 pitch" I actually opted for a 3 blade prop and a 3S 3000mAh I already had, but bought the ESC and motor recommended and am now fitting them cos it made sense, was not expensive and came pretty quick - make sure it comes from the UK or EU warehouse to avoid possible import tax from Hong Kong or USA !!! This would be more than adequate to give your boat some Oomph! It needs more than my cabin Cruiser! For the RC buy a complete set already matched and 'bound' so you have the minimum of fiddling about as a rookie😉 I can thoroughly recommend the Turnigy HT6, AKA TGY-I6 , ~US$45 also from Hobby King. In a couple of hours one evening I could programme two models into it and get it to do what I wanted instead of what the factory thought we would want for plane or chopper! Instructions are quite clear, logical and lead you through step by step. It comes with a 68 page manual! But much you can skip if you don't intend to go flying with your boat! Attached is a pic from my manual with German branding (REELY)! But it's the same beast as the TGY-I6, second pic!! The whole package should cost around a 100quid and you're RTR! The RC set has 6 channels so you have lots of scope later for special functions; fire monitors, lights, horn, motor noise etc etc 👍 By the way; the motor comes with 3.5mm bullet connectors, and of course I only had 4mm 'other halves' but you can also get connectors, loose or fitted to cables and adapters at Hobby King. (You can solder them on with your 4lb hatchet!!!) Hope this helps, Cheers Doug 😎 PS don't forget a suitable coupling to match the 3.17mm motor shaft to your prop shaft (whatever that is, 4mm?)
Most of the companies you have mentioned tend to rebadge third party suppliers hardware, and put their own firmware on it. Flysky and Turnigy normally won't work together, but, if you install Turnigy with Turnigy, or Flysky with Flysky, it will work. I have successfully "updated" Turnigy receivers with Flysky firmware updates to enable me to use them with my Flysky Transmitter. My next job is to hack my Flysky GT3-B to increase to 8 channels and ppm transmission, so I can install an 8 channel receiver on my 46" fire tender (sound, directional working fire monitors, etc). Hopefully doing it sometime next week. Progress reports as(or if) I make any 😨 Best wishes, Dave W 😊