Cookies used in this website are gluten free, wheat free and dairy free. By using this website you agree to our use of cookies. More Info
Guest
Login Below
Join Us On Social Media!
   
Get The Model Boats App!
Apple App Store
Android app on Google Play


Help Support This Website
£
or enter custom amount

(Non Contributor)

Help support this free
website and donate.



£285 a year is needed to keep the website and apps online. Please consider donating £5 or more to help towards these fees.
All donations are securely managed through PayPal. Amounts donated are not published online.

Many thanks for your kind support.

Model Boats Website Team


Donation History
December 2017: 2 people
November 2017: 13 people
October 2017: 9 people
September 2017: 15 people
August 2017: 10 people
July 2017: 16 people
June 2017: 8 people
May 2017: 8 people
April 2017: 19 people


Unique Visitors This Month

Website Members

Terms and Conditions
Privacy Policy
Advertising
Contact


Model Boats Website
Active Users (16)
Login or Register
To Remove This Ad

Login or Register
To Remove This Ad
>> Home > Tags > motor mount

motor mount
battery mount
engine mount
rudder mount
540 motor
brushed motor
brushless motor
johnson motor
motor
motor cooler
reversing motors
torpedo 850 motor
torpedo motor
twin motor
motor mount
Skimmer from Mobile Marine by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 7 days ago
Hi Steve Sorry, no I did not take photos of the build. If you have the Mobile Marine hull then I built a vertical wooden plate up through the top and strengthened with wood plates beneath the top moulding. If your rudder snake runs over the top make sure you allow for this when deciding how high to mount the motor/prop!! This works but flexes when power is applied so if I did another I would mount the upright to the base and make a slot in the top to allow it to pass through. I would also provide support, below the top, to the upright behind and right up to the hull sides. The force from the motor is truly awesome and plastic mouldings tend to (and do) flex. I use two rudders as other members have found they work better than one. I used 1/8" welding rods for the cage and did have some hard black netting at one time but have had no problems with just the frame. If I sailed in an area where the public had access then I would provide a cover. Just get the mount and prop sorted before you finalise as mine was too small!

Skimmer from Mobile Marine by cormorant Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 8 days ago
Hi Dave Following your advice on how to fix the ply board in the hull, I decided to try silicone. It worked well and allowed me to gap fill where necessary. I am now ready to proceed further and reading your advice to Chris about motor mounts, getting them strong enough seems most important. Have you got any detailed pictures of your mount you could post please? Regards Steve

Sea Queen Prop Shaft by jarvo Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 16 days ago
Hi Andy, as the boat is in kit form, just get the keel sections, on the drawings they tell you to leave a gap to fit the prop shaft. re-adjust the angle of the gap to about 15 degrees, this will give you room for the motor mount and the length of the prop tube, give yourself enough clearance for the largest prop, 55 - 60 mm, with the motor you are looking at i would go for the 100amp esc not much extra but a lot more security, power wise. Prop shaft, have a look at the Raboesch ball raced shafts from Deans Marine, very good at higher revs. Mark

Clothing finished, motor mounted by Skydive130 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 19 days ago
So, have mounted the motor having set it all up nice and straight, result is nice smooth prop shaft no binding. Have finished the obechi deck surround and finished the day glass clothing the other side of the hull. Next job is a couple of coats of thinned resin to finish the hull then it’s on with the deck pieces.

wardrobe by philpjuk Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 23 days ago
yes still clockwork,The best improvements have been made by lightening the motor, drilling holes in everything and replacing a side plate with one made of alloy.It is just a nut on the sponson, they are adjustable for incidence.It will now plane on the sponsons "unsticking" the hull.The original was built when I was 13/14,the motor came from the family gramophone when my dad converted it to autochanger/amplifier,the wood came from the woodshed but I was short of plywood and realised the back of my wardrobe was plywood and was hidden behind clothes so when my parents were out I cut the bits I needed from it!,my mates christened it "the wardrobe".Performance is down to propeller choice and is a compromise between speed and runtime.I took it to a boating pond in a nearby town when my wife needed to visit it and a council "jobsworth" told me I was not allowed to sail it,"only yachts and electric boats on here sir"no amount of reasoning would make him change his mind and he escorted me out of the park!.

46" Firefloat What Motor/Battery by canabus Admiral   Posted: 24 days ago
Hi What type of props are you using(size and number of blades). I see your basic problem is under powered motors and a very heavy battery. I made the big switch over three years ago from brush to brushless motors and to Lipo batteries. With the help on the forum and club members it was a learning curve, but, I would not go back. A 5800mah Lipo battery is in the weight of 450 to 570 grams and would give you a good 1/2 hour run time. A good balance charger and safety bag are the main requirements, also maximum charging for the 5800mah battery is 5.8 Amps(same as the old Nicads). Also a low voltage battery alarm. Your 600 motors can draw up to12Amps !!! Replacement same size motors for your mounts would be 35mm brushless motors, but, you will require two ESCs with a Y connector to run on the same throttle channel. Replacement brushless motors are far more powerful e.g. a Hobbyking 3639-1100kv with a 60Amp ESC on a 4S 5800mah Lipo Battery is 800watts and with two in your boat is 1600 watts!!! Your old motor would in the 100 watt each mark !! I have the same size crash tender, but, with a single brushless motor. I have all the order numbers for the motors etc. and a setup the ESCs if your require. Canabus

Sea Queen Prop shaft by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 24 days ago
Hi AndyG Not sure what type of coupling was supplied but I use a common Universal coupling on my 48" Sea Queen and use a brushless 42 size 850Kv water cooled motor of 700 watts and it is happy driving a Prop Shop prop of 42mm at 45 amp on full throttle. Power is from an 11.1v Lipo of at least 2200 mA but Nimhs would work, just not as fast and less duration. My motor is mounted in the main cabin and I have no problem with the prop shaft. Originally designed for IC power so perhaps you have heard of problems when we used such powerful and not so well controlled devices. My model goes on the plane very easily and any more power would make it unstable. Pics attached to show my set up. You can just see the coupling in front of the motor.

Electronics Down Below (5) by NPJ Captain   Posted: 26 days ago
This time I will try to remember to put in the ‘source’ information on the bits and pieces I use........... In the most recent piece I should have included exciters/transducers are Dayton Audio DAEX 25VT -4, 4 Ohms – 20 Watt pair, obtained from Sound Imports Netherlands and very quickly as well. The sound unit is a Mtroniks Digisound 5M diesel sound, available all over the place. Now to look at where I am at. Exciters are in place as high up the Hull as possible, but remembering the Deck level. Used the adhesive pads as supplied after wiping that part of the Hull with Meths and Silicone adhesive to keep in place as well as using the wiring tidies from Modelsport Ltd., for the cabling. (Pic 1+2) Before I start the motor and controller wiring I changed the platform ‘up front’ (pic3) with a piece of thin ply which I have given a couple of coats of varnish to waterproof. Then I thought to myself “why am I waterproofing this when, if it gets that wet, it will have gone to the bottom and be useless anyway”! (Pics 4) However, the platform gives a little more choice in terms of layout of other components and my plan for them is not really settled yet. I am concerned about the stern and possible swamping, but it currently seems the best place for the upgraded battery. (Pic5 ) Whilst talking batteries, I have gone for a separate battery supply for the receiver and hope to use the Bec supply for running other less critical items. Also the fitting of the battery in the stern bay drew my attention to the rudder servo for a couple of reasons. First is I am still considering increasing the size of the rudders and I am assuming that will increase the strain on the servo. The servo supplied is a standard issue and not water resistant so I have gone for an upgrade as shown(Pic6) That gives torque increase of 17Kg/cm over the Hobby Engine S1040C and has metal gears, metal control arm and waterproof for 20grams extra weight. Second is the closeness to the new battery position. So I was going to alter the servo arm setup anyway and the new metal arm suits this well. Maybe my ‘tutors’ will consider all this to be a little ‘over the top’ but I do so enjoy messing......................... New Servo DS 3218 by AYANI from Amazon. (Pics 6/7 ) Following that distraction, back to the front end and the Motor/Mixer placing and wiring. Now a little time ago I drew a plan to see what could go where and it came out that most of the ‘bits’ would go in the front bay with motors to be wired once power was brought forward, followed by the Esc/Mixer. (Pic 8) At that time I bought a P94 dual esc/mixer from Action Electronics and got the 20 amp version to be on the safe side................. My ‘guardians’ did point out this was ‘over-kill’ but I had already got it. Now, when placing the unit on the mounting board I found that the heatsinks made it too high to fit in the Hull! So being a spoilt brat only child I ordered the 10 amp version and as usual it came very quickly from up here in Bangor. ( Will keep the other one for the next project............Happy Hunter??) Unboxed it and it looked just the same, heatsinks and all. (Pic 9/10 ) So at that moment there was a bit of a set-back so I rang Component Shop at Bangor, they said “take the heat sinks off and you have a P94 lite”! Such a simple answer and such a nice chap. (Pic 11 ) Now a quick 'measure up' before I have a glass of wine (Pic 12) and does it all fit...? Well it appears to at the moment! (Pic 13) Next time really going to screw down the components under the forward hatch and wire it up. NPJ

rotating radars off mast by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Yes Robbob, But their radar motors are much too big for mast mounting 🤔

Motor problem by RichardSReade Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 1 month ago
the motor has arrived today so into the workshop this afternoon, of course it is not going to be straightforward, the motor is much larger than the 540 size so the motor platform is too high. I fixed it down well, I did not want this to come loose, managed to cut it out with one of those vibrating cutter, just leaving the glued pieces to remove , not too difficult with a small wood chisel. So in the process of making a motor platform with new stringers so the platform is lower in the hull, break for tea, now going in to workshop to fix down the stringers to the hull and bulkheads with 2 part epoxy, The motor mount has been fixed to the platform with small nuts and bolts with a locking washer, I am going to epoxy the heads to the underside of the platform, so I can undo the nuts without the bolt spinning, not sure how I will fix the platform in as there is not much depth on the stringers to use screws, so I guess two part epoxy again. Should I start a blog as I think this may be an ongoing tale of woe😊

rotating radars off mast by Trillium Commander   Posted: 1 month ago
Dave, Thanks for the tip about using the stepper motors. I found some 6mm x 6mm motors on ebay which will be ideal for mast mounted radars on a future project. Roy

Motor problem by pmdevlin Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
here is the problem Richard, when you ask for advise on an open forum, you get a few individual takes!😁 IMO, its not so much the motor at this stage, its the ba thread thing. You can stick a Ferrari v12 in there, but you still need to consider how to attach the thing that is actually going to drive you along, a prop, be it 2, 3 or more blades Whilst buying the 850 motor, take the boat into the shop and get the bearings for your outer tube, and a new mm stainless shaft, and any couplings that are needed. If the outershaft is a size that will not accommodate any new bearings, then it will have to come out, regardless of the motor (don't forget a mount) that you buy. The suggested nylon 2 blade prop sizes that Havelock has posted in the motor spec are what I suggested a few days ago. Don't forget, that spec etc is generic, its not going to be "fit all" its down to you to test and establish what works best for your boat, we don't know its weight, and the condition of your batteries etc.

Motor Mount by neilmc Commander   Posted: 1 month ago
Hi Jarvo If you search with just 017000594-0 it does come show but only 19mm by 16mm hole spacing. There is another mount in the item like section but this looks to be small hole spacing as well. Cheers Neil

Motor problem by RichardSReade Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 1 month ago
Hi all I have located an 850 motor and mount at Howes Models in Kiddlington not too far from where I live in Malmesbury, for £22.50 however the prop shaft is 4BA, the coupling is not a problem as I can get the insert for the larger motor to fit the existing red coupling, but I can only seem to find 4mm 40 or 45mm propellers which are a fraction bigger than the 4BA which I know will screw on but they would have a bit of a wobble on the threads and could give me an out of balance vibration, apart from drilling out the old propshaft assy and fitting a new 4mm one what else can I do? or does anyone have a old 4BA prop they can let me have?

Motor Mount by jarvo Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Hi Dave, thanks for the info, still cant find the larger one, this one seems a bit small. Keep on looking!!!! Regards Mark