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>> Home > Tags > motor mount

motor mount
battery mount
engine mount
rudder mount
540 motor
brushed motor
brushless motor
johnson motor
motor
motor cooler
reversing motors
torpedo 850 motor
torpedo motor
twin motor
motor mount
NAXOS - Fishing Boat by onetenor Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 days ago
Depending on what voltage you intend using governs what gearing you should use commensurate with size and weight of model and prop size , IE small boat and prop ,low voltage direct drive would do. As you go bigger then consider gearing.Bear in mind the torque produced by the drill. You could build a large boat with a fine turn of speed using that motor. The thing is there are so many possible variables you could experiment till the cows come home. The thing is how big a boat can you handle without putting your back out. LOL. If you remove the existing gear and replace it with one secured by grub screws and a "GearBox" with easily changed cogs you can achieve something suitable. You shouldn't need cooling .Remember the drill had none and your motor will have free space round it in the hull. If you decide you do want cooling annealed copper tubing can be wound round the can and one of the plastic tubes used to couple this to the scoop and the outlet. One way of making a scoop is a length of tubing with a slot cut in it and a cap soldered (or glued depending on material) on the end when in place under the hull the cutout will face forward. Preferably in the prop wash.Or buy a ready made scoop from a model shop. Much simpler as the mounting method will be incorporated in it already. Here is a page of suitable shops.--https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=model+boat+shops&npsic=0&r... Good luck. P.S. Join a club. Youll get loads of help from the other members.👍👍

Additional supression added. by Novagsi0 Captain   Posted: 18 days ago
Following on from comments here and a mail from Como MFA i've added a 0.22uF Cap to the motor terminals. Hopefully that will see the back of the uncontrolled mounting the side of the pool disasters.

MAS 562 update by CB90 Commander   Posted: 25 days ago
Skinned the frames added deck and splash rail also started on cabin and superstructure, added rudder and installed twin brushed Graupner 600 motors via Graupner style direct couplings. Motor mounting system through a bulkhead gives extra support to motors which mount on to end of the shafts. currently adding a rudder servo mount, as rudder is a close copy of the real boat's and still functional.

H.M.S. BRAVE BORDERER by RHBaker Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 26 days ago
From the brief pool test, had decided that the motors could be susceptible to overheating, so connected up the water jacket cooling system and powered it with a small pump. Did not leave enough space to fit a scoop behind a propeller anyway, but prefer the positive action of a pump though. From feeling the ESCs, was also concerned they could overheat within a confined space such as the hull. Mounted a couple of small fans in a bridge structure above the ESCs, along with the ESC switches. Not sure either of these cooling modifications are really required, but erred on the side of caution. Final weight of the hull, with all electrics (apart from battery) comes to 5.05 lbs. Looks like will not achieve the target weight of 6 lbs, but am hopeful will be able to get close to it.. Built the deck up with gun mount bases and a removable decking over the engine area. This limits access to the internals; so will not fit it permanently until the test program is complete and all modifications incorporated. Have now reached a point where any further work will be to start finishing the model, unless drivetrain modifications are required. Have thus decided to leave it until after the first open water test date. This will be in late May as am away until then.

Added some paint by GARTH Captain   Posted: 26 days ago
I haven't been working on the floating light house for a while .Took a long time to fix the hull as it was in poor condition finally fix as best as possible & put some paint on her . added motor mount stuffing box & I'm quit proud of my cabin holder to hull used a magnet from a P/C that had broke down .Man those magnets are real magnetic . just wanted to add Lancaster it was on the tarmac & would be flown down to Washington for a Royal air-force reunion later in April After it flew down We had a major snow storm here in Ontario so she was stuck in Washington for a few extra days

H.M.S. BRAVE BORDERER by RHBaker Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 28 days ago
An unexpected opportunity arose to try the unfinished hull in a small pool. Whilst the performance envelope could not be explored, was able to try and measure operating parameters and get a “feel” for the model. Used an electronic scale and a combination voltmeter/ammeter/wattmeter to measure propeller thrust /bollard pull and motor power requirements. If it is necessary to fit different drivetrain components, or a 3S cell this will serve as the baseline. The model floated levelly and well above the waterline. At about 8 volts the motors drew around 20 amps each at full speed; so only about 35% of the potential output capacity was being used. Tested each motor individually and measured the bollard pull at just over 2 lbs. A considerable amount of spray and wash was created making stable readings difficult. For further testing, will add ballast at the stern to hold the propellers further underwater. Should help reading stability. Currently using 20 A fuses; which as one failed seem marginal. For sustained use think 25 or 30 Amp better. With these high-speed, low torque motors establishing the “dry” propeller rotation is deceptive. Found one motor to be reversed! Nevertheless, the model accelerates quickly and is sensitive to engine speed movements. Left the pool with a list of modifications to make before assessing the installation properly on an adequate body of water. Some conclusions can be made though. If it is necessary to add a second cell this needs to be located around midships, not in the bow or stern. Still hoping a 3S cell will not be necessary and that 2S may be adequate. The suggestion to do testing using the bare hull with a minimum of detail was a good one. For a models with a sophisticated power train think this is a good approach. Nothing worse that finishing a boat just to find the performance disappointing, then have to to rip it apart to make major modifications or adjustments!

H.M.S. BRAVE BORDERER by reilly4 Captain   Posted: 1 month ago
Hi Rowen, I have had water cooling on all my patrol boats running at 12Volts, whether brushed or now brushless. For the brushed motors I have used aluminium tube coils with water pickups between the propellers and rudders. I did try water jackets a couple of times but found too much friction loss and therefore lack of flow. For the newer brushless outrunners I use a brass tube soldered to a brass plate across the front of the motor fitted between it and motor mounting bracket. I agree with Doug with regards to the disconnection of the red wires on the ESC's. This is now common practice, especially if you have an external receiver battery.

H.M.S. BRAVE BORDERER by RHBaker Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Once the rudder, propeller and shafts were installed, the position of the motors could be established. A light aluminium bracket to hold all three was fabricated and bonded to the hull. Due to the high speed capability of the brushless motors, particular attention was paid to alignment. Also kept to the shortest prop. shafts that could be fitted to avoid whipping. Although the motor type might change, whatever is best will require a sound electrical installation as the current requirements for each brushless motor could reach 50 Amps. Wired each motor and ESC separately with its own dedicated fuse to give the maximum system protection. There is an extra fuse section allocated for auxiliary circuits, such as a cooling water pump and lights. Will try the original planned layout of 3 x 2835 motors with 30mm propellers and a 2S Li-Po battery first. Am hoping the reduced voltage will also make these motors more tractable. For the test program the three ESCs will be each controlled from an individual Rx channel. Once the final layout is determined, a more sophisticated and flexible control system can be installed. To minimize ballast, particularly around the stern, the battery will be housed as far into the bow as possible. After the test runs the final battery type, size and location can be established. To assess performance, hope to try both 2 and 3S Li-Po batteries. Planning to reduce heat build up by fitting cooling water jackets to the motors, these are easiest to instal at this stage so the wiring or mounts are not disturbed in the future. Have not decided the layout for the water circuit yet, but this easily can be added later. All that is needed now is the ice to melt off our local lakes so tests can commence.

Choose a brushless motor by CB90 Commander   Posted: 1 month ago
1. Added strakes to bow used a rectangle section of styrene as more flexible. 2. Brought a motor mount (cooled) but may also add a jacket. 3. Painted cabin will need to redo as paint cover was poor. 4. Looking to find the best brushless motor for the job, remembering these boat race on 7.4v 3300mah batteries fo 5-6 mins. That gives a ruff consumption of 33 Amps which means the motor need to be able to handle about 250Watts. I have pick out 4 to test 1. 2850 2650 kv, 800W, max 19v, max 52A. 2. 2860 4050 kv, 1300W,max 12v, max 108A. 3. 3650 3930 kv, 800W, max 13v, max 60A. 4. 2845 3100 kv, 800W, max 17v, max 47A. On paper it should be between 1. and 3., 3 being the most suited ???. So on paper motor 3. running 7.4v will give 450 watts max at (60A max current at 13v) so 7.4v should have a max a round 30A (unless stalled). giving 222W 244.2 watts target at 7.4v = 33A max for 6 mins on a 3.3ah battery if battery function is good. 33A drain will depend on the propeller size 32mm- 45mm ! A safety margin may be 30A when moving and 33A in bath. 7.4v x 3930kv = 29,082 rpm perfect for hydro, not for sub drive.

Renovating my Aerokits Patrol Torpedo Boat. by MouldBuilder Lieutenant   Posted: 2 months ago
Thanks Boatshed. I have now purchased a brushless motor which I am making a mount for. I have a feeling that the lack of speed will be dramatically improved. I hope the hull will stand up to this dramatic improvement in power.😊

Help Needed new Builder Billings St Canute by kmbcsecretary Admiral   Posted: 2 months ago
Could you post a picture of the area where the motor is to be mounted or of the diagram in the instructions ,as it may help with giving you the right advise and not cutting away material that you don't need to

Motor Mounted! by figtree7nts Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
CU tomorrow also! Good Night! And I'll tell the better half you send your Regards Bye...😊

Motor Mounted! by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Sounds like a great partnership 👍 21:00 - That's about when I start warming up! But now (03:30 CET) I reckon my watch is about over! CU tomorrow, Greetings also to 'The Better Half', Ciao Doug 😎

Motor Mounted! by figtree7nts Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Well, I fall apart after 21:00 can't even stay up for taps! Real good early riser! Some times I'm up at 03:00.... And the better half an I have a real good accord. She leaves me alone while I'm working on my model! We get together for dinner, I'm always in the Galley, mess cranking.....!

Motor Mounted! by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
The other half of 'the secret' is I'm sure 'The Other Half' 😉 The cornet blows with me any time from 05:30 to 10:00, depending how long I stayed up 'fiddlin' about! I'm basically a night owl! My GF has her own apartment so I usually spend the mornings messing about with the 'household stuff'. In the afternoon I get my 'creative phase and ideas' then spend half the night realising them, or trying to😉 I'm just built that way, would probably have been useless in anyone's Navy! 😲 Except perhaps on the 'Dog Watch', would have fitted my bio-clock 😊