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>> Home > Tags > motor mount

motor mount
battery mount
engine mount
rudder mount
540 motor
brushed motor
brushless motor
johnson motor
motor cooler
reversing motors
torpedo 850 motor
torpedo motor
twin motor
motor mount
Planking almost very nearly finished! by Skydive130 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 18 hours ago
Finished nights this morning, had a couple of hours kip then thrashed some more planking! Stern end finished, main hull finished, just the bow uppers to put in. Once completed, will get some pva squeegee’d into the inside joints between planks and formers then will give the inside a couple of coats of resin. Once that’s done, rough sand the hull and fill the remaining gaps and blemishes with wood filler before final sanding and touch filling prior to glass clothing. Before I glass cloth, shall install prop shafts, motor mounts, motors, install decks then onwards with clothing.

Lady T by AlanP Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 7 days ago
The next stage was to fit the prop tubes and motors, MMModels prop tubes and T4 motors were used. Now I will admit that getting the tubes lined up and getting them to come out of the hull nearly horizontal gave me a lot of headaches. The hull had different thicknesses and shapes of fibreglass were the motors had to be fitted, the A frame markings on the hull, especially the inboard ones were way out, all of this plus the fact that the motors had to be fitted more or less on the bottom of the hull. Aligning pieces were made on the lathe to go between the prop shafts and the motors. Motor mounts were made from hardwood and shaped on a belt sander to fit the hull bottom. I think I had about five attempts at this stage using all sorts of pieces of ply with holes in them, wooden wedges and of course masking tape. Motor mounts, I only have one photo of these, holes drilled in hardwood with a hole cutter, then cut in two on the bandsaw to give two halves that can clamp the motor, draught excluder stuck on the inside and the two halves fastened together with two wood screws.

Hovercraft by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 8 days ago
Many thanks Dave and Brian, I guess Brian's craft is much bigger and heavier than mine; 56x30 cm. Spec says weight 1.3kg with motors fitted but without batteries and RC gear. It came with a 9cm diameter 3 blade ducted fan, 13x? two blade thrust prop and a pair of 400 size brushed motors, the mountings for which limit me to 28/30mm diameter brushless. When I hauled the kit box down from an upper shelf to investigate I found the packing list and spares price list in both Deutschmark and Euro, i.e. circa 1999/2000!! Planning well ahead for the retirement 😉😉 In mine there are no rudders! The whole motor/prop mount is turned. Will see how it goes with that and maybe mod it later with rudders depending on how easy it is to control - OR NOT😲 many thanks for the tips 👍 Doug

Too Powerful Brushless ? by reilly4 Commander   Posted: 17 days ago
Graham, I have attached the same table that Doug sent me. This has the relevant information you seek. According to the table attached the Graupner 500 kV ECO has a specified output of 1440 watts and 80Amps. Strangely the 400 kV ECO has a specified output of 2010 Watts. So the 1440Watt output is questionable and may be a typo based on the other entries in the table. more likely to be 2440Watts In any case you need a 5mm diameter propeller shaft. For shaft alignment i use a brass tube that slides snugly on the propeller shaft and then on the motor shaft. When the tube rotates/slides well on both then the shafts are aligned. I then fit the motor mounts, check and tweak the alignment if necessary, remove the tube and replace with a universal coupling. If the motor or propeller shafts are a different diameter then I insert the relevant size smaller tube inside the larger of the tubes. This method is simple and has served me well, including for larger IC engine powered boats belonging to friends. Haig

Too Powerful Brushless ? by jarvo Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 18 days ago
HI Graham. Every picture tells a story!!! The motor is definitely wrong, its designed for racing, low torque, mega revs, not for scale boats. What diameter is the shaft tube??? looks thin??? did the prop shear in the water?? would explain the vibration and damage to the shaft mountings, try a Raboesch shaft, with a ballrace at the motor end, great quality, also they do a huge range of props, google the name there site will come up. Mark

Too Powerful Brushless ? by ChrisF Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 19 days ago
Graham - don't tell me you ran the boat at anything like full throttle. If so, it wouldn't just be the prop shaft that you'd have to worry about! If you did it must have been virtually uncontrollable! I take it you bought the boat with the motor already in it? Whatever, it couldn't really have been a worse choice! With such a high kv and being an inrunner (if I've got the right motor) it's really meant for a lighter, race type boat running on 2S to keep the revs down to a reasonable level. As you now know, for your type of boat you need a kv around 1000 or even a bit less as torque is what you need and also go for an outrunner. 3S or 4S is fine and if it is too fast limit the amount of throttle. Without seeing photos it's impossible to say if your existing prop shaft is up to the job but as you've removed it anyway and if you don't mind the expense I'd change it for one of the Raboesch maintenance free ones. I'm using these for my builds and my Fairey Swordsman at 33 inches is a similar size and weight. These are rated for 10k. and 15k. rpm, I've gone for the latter and in 5mm shaft size to be on the safe side. I doubt that a shorter prop shaft will be feasible as usually the motor is already pretty low in the boat and a shorter shaft will increase the angle and you don't want it too steep. Also you would have to redrill the hole for the different angle. What dia. is the existing prop shaft? The other thing you need to consider is the prop. What are you running at the moment? A photo of the boat would be good. Chris

Too Powerful Brushless ? by rmwall107 Lieutenant   Posted: 21 days ago
Hi traiderman I am no expert. dont forget, as pmdent highlights, you you multiply the KV by the volts of the supply to get the RPM of the prop. so you can play with the volts supplied or the Kv of the motor or both. regarding the vibration, have you supported the outer end of the shaft? if the shaft leaves the hull and has a good amount of unsupported shaft the end of the shaft effectively will scribe a circle. At the speed the shaft is turning and with the pressure on the prop this may cause your vibration. Richard

Too Powerful Brushless ? by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 21 days ago
I have to agree with Peter's comments. I would also suggest that you look at the coupling and fitment of your prop shaft. It could be that the whole unit is seizing together. You also need to check it is true and free running. You need a prop and locknut followed by a thrust washer then at the inboard end a thrust washer locknut and coupling. There should be a gap between the thrust washer and bearing of a few thou', we used to use a Rizla paper, Make sure all joint are tight and that the shaft turns freely and smoothly. The motor need to be securely mounted to a good solid base and 100% aligned with the coupling and prop shaft. Personal experience tells me you don't get a second chance with brushless, you have been fortunate if it is only the prop tube has suffered. Is your hull wood, plastic, fibreglass? Whilst Araldite is a fine adhesive you may need to use Stabliz Express or UHU Acrylit Plus which provide an exceptionally strong joint. E-bay have sellers of UHU in the UK. Good luck and please keep us posted

Motor Mount by pmdent Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 1 month ago
Neil - I am alos restoring on old 34" Crash Tender and am at point of re-engining -could you detail which motor you have gone with and what kind of performance you get from it? Ideally I wouold appreciate your set up details re motor/battery/esc and prop dia and no. blades. Also clearance of prop to rudder balde and prop tip to hull..... Appreciating any advice for improving over what you have done... Peter Dent

Airboat - one rudder? by cormorant Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
I am currently building a skimmer (Dave M will be very familiar with the type). I propose to mount the motor as a pusher on the single pylon. To minimise clutter I was thinking of a single rudder, mounted centrally behind the motor. Most skimmers/airboats I have seen have two rudders, but do I really need two? Any thoughts? Thank you Steve

The Vosper 46” RAF Crash Tender Kit By Vintage Model Works by jarvo Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi Mate and welcome to the forum, (mad as hatters!!!) I have built the 46" and before you get to far in you need to decide if your having single or twin motors, and rudders, that way you dont fall foul of bulkheads, and shaft mountings, mine has Graupner 700bb motors on 3s lipos, but i am up-grading them to brushless soon, have the new ESC,s and the motors are on order. Great model to build and sail, attracts a lot of attention. Mark

Working Radar for Many Scales by bilzin Lieutenant   Posted: 2 months ago
Building a German Police launch right now and thought that the radar scanner components were a bit 'heath robinsonish', so decided to see if I could make an alternative unit. Photo 1 shows the Radar scanner parts obtained from MMB (ebay) for the princely sum of ONE POUND !!!!! plus 28p postage, and construction is of a medium soft resin that isn't prone to breaking or splitting when shaped or drilled, and a short length of 2mm brass rod becomes the drive shaft. This particular unit has a 44mm sweep bar but there are many other sizes available Photo 2 shows the drive motor which operates on voltages between 1.5 and 6v, ideal for the control driver which is the next item. Available from saih.tan on Ebay for under 7 pounds, and if the motor is mounted on a removable bracket as I have done, this unit can be used in several models without the need for major 'surgery', the motor and radar shaft being connected with a short piece of rubber tubing Photo 3 shows the receiver driven radar motor speed control which operates from an auxiliary receiver channel and takes the motor voltage from the main receiver supply, thus obviating the need for a separate supply and switch. This unit is available from and costs a staggering 14.50 post free sheesh ! I must add here that I am in NO way connected to any of the suppliers mentioned here, but just though some other modellers may be interested in 'home brew' accessories and suchlike.

Steam sound unit (variable speed) by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi Doug and Eric If you want synchronized sound they will be synthesised. I bought an original Action sound unit for my Trent lifeboat as the sound was sampled on the Whitby Lifeboat which is the model I built. The sampled sounds are all available on a disk and you can easily reprogram to any sound you require. The latest offering can reproduce two motors which is good for twin props where the engines are often changing direction when manouvering. You do need a large solidly mounted speaker to deliver the deep engine notes. My Noisy thing works with any rx and both brushed and brushless ESCs. I suspect that they are designed to link into the Action ESCs which may explain the situation. We did have a discussion re the Action twin ESC some time ago and I did note that the two positive and negative connections had to be wired correctly or risk damaging the output stage. Whatever you choose the sound will greatly enhance the models prescence.

Skimmer from Mobile Marine by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
Hi Steve Sorry, no I did not take photos of the build. If you have the Mobile Marine hull then I built a vertical wooden plate up through the top and strengthened with wood plates beneath the top moulding. If your rudder snake runs over the top make sure you allow for this when deciding how high to mount the motor/prop!! This works but flexes when power is applied so if I did another I would mount the upright to the base and make a slot in the top to allow it to pass through. I would also provide support, below the top, to the upright behind and right up to the hull sides. The force from the motor is truly awesome and plastic mouldings tend to (and do) flex. I use two rudders as other members have found they work better than one. I used 1/8" welding rods for the cage and did have some hard black netting at one time but have had no problems with just the frame. If I sailed in an area where the public had access then I would provide a cover. Just get the mount and prop sorted before you finalise as mine was too small!

Skimmer from Mobile Marine by cormorant Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
Hi Dave Following your advice on how to fix the ply board in the hull, I decided to try silicone. It worked well and allowed me to gap fill where necessary. I am now ready to proceed further and reading your advice to Chris about motor mounts, getting them strong enough seems most important. Have you got any detailed pictures of your mount you could post please? Regards Steve