Cookies used in this website are gluten free, wheat free and dairy free. By using this website you agree to our use of cookies. More Info
Guest
Login Below
Join Us On Social Media!
   
Get The Model Boats App!
Apple App Store
Android app on Google Play


Help Support This Website
£
or enter custom amount

(Non Contributor)

Help support this free
website and donate.



£285 a year is needed to keep the website and apps online. Please consider donating £5 or more to help towards these fees.
All donations are securely managed through PayPal. Amounts donated are not published online.

Many thanks for your kind support.

Model Boats Website Team


Donation History
August 2018: 3 people
July 2018: 8 people
June 2018: 8 people
May 2018: 7 people
April 2018: 24 people
March 2018: 13 people
February 2018: 8 people
January 2018: 25 people
December 2017: 4 people


Unique Visitors This Month

Website Members

Terms and Conditions
Privacy Policy
Advertising
Contact


Model Boats Website
Active Users (4)
Login or Register
To Remove This Ad

Login or Register
To Remove This Ad
>> Home > Tags > motor mount

motor mount
battery mount
engine mount
rudder mount
540 motor
brushed motor
brushless motor
johnson motor
motor
motor cooler
reversing motors
torpedo 850 motor
torpedo motor
twin motor
motor mount
20th Scale ELCO 80ft PT boat part 8 by CB90 Admiral   Posted: 9 hours ago
Hi Added the three motor mounts and reinforcements, predrilled mounting holes and shaft exit before fixing into position. Used a long shaft and a dab of paint on the end of it, to mark the points of the motor positions, the use a small right-angle to angle to set the mount 90 degrees to the shaft. Now waiting for some nuts, bolts, spacers and washers Thanks Roy

Cheap motor for a quick fit, but what prop gents?... by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 days ago
Agree on the 'blue' motor Martin. Looks like the mounting flange, as on the Tower pro motor, is missing🤔 BTW: Is that per chance your bald patch in that natty ally covered gent's racer? 😁😁

Cheap motor for a quick fit, but what prop gents?... by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 days ago
Aha, I assumed it was an airyplane motor. I had an Ugly Stick once, given to me with a speed 400 motor and a gearbox with a bent shaft. So the motor came on board as a spare and the gearbox was dumped, but I stopped doing aircraft and so gave the Ugly Stik back to its reluctant owner. There's a whole range of Ugly Stik type things, all ugly and odd looking but apparently they fly very well. Looks like your photo shows a brushed 380 type motor with gearing too. Not sure about the 62mm length! It's way shorter than that. Has, as you can see, a flange mount. There's no mount for the blue one. The magnetism is amazing. I can hardly turn the shaft with fingers. So, do you reckon the motors would work in a boat? Cheers, Martin

Cheap motor for a quick fit, but what prop gents?... by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 days ago
OK, found one, 'discontinued product' 🤔 Seems Tower pro only make gas engines these days. https://hobbyking.com/en_us/towerpro-brushless-outrunner-240... Specs "TP 2408-21 The most widely used towerpro motor available today. the 2408-21T is often used in GWS (means Grand Wing System, USA apparently!) upgrades. Paired with just an 18A besc, this motor is an excellent and cheap way to upgrade small planes to brushless. An RD1047, RD9070 or 8040 size propeller are the best choice, with the RD9070 and 8040 giving the best thrust and amp draw balance. For 2-3 Li-Poly Cells (7.2-12.6V) 31 mm diameter x 62 mm length Maximum current: 13A Weight: 50.2 grams / 1.77 oz Comes with stick mount plastic frame Firewall mount capable Comes with two prop nuts and one washer 3mm shaft diameter 10mm x 10mm stick mount Kv: 1750 9 Stator Poles, 12 Magnets" So it's OK for a 3S LiPo, which will give about 19.400rpm OFF LOAD. Max current 13A ON LOAD. No way of finding the other little one without at least a hint🤔 Looks like an Outrunner plane motor as well. Suck it and see! Probably similar specs to the Tower motor. The two brushed ESCs should be good for your Taycols as none of them should take much more than 10A or so. Use 15A fuses, as I have already fitted to your converter boards.😉 Bon chance mon ami, Cheers, Doug 😎 Re GWS; https://www.google.com/search?q=GWS+models&client=firefox-b&... Pic is a typical GWS small plane, called 'Slow Stick'. If I had one I would name it 'Spindle-shanks' 😁

Cheap motor for a quick fit, but what prop gents?... by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 days ago
Hi Doug, yes, very similar sizes. (Nice finish on your Sea Hornet, btw. Mine cost me 99p off ebay!). My drill motor is from a 14.4Volt one, if I can find it! OR, I'll buy a 20,000 rev one from ebay. Roughly the same I should think. I'm going brushed because I have ESCs to use up, apart from the one or two for the Taycols, thanks to your kind provision of electro-boards. I was thinking 30-35mm prop. so that's good to have confirmed. This is actually the first full installation I've ever done in a model boat. My Sea Urchin is free running, the Crash Tender was installed by my Dad with REP single channel stuff and I once put a rudder servo in my brother's borrowed 575 yacht. Everything else (and that's a lot) has been static. Just got the steering servo mounted and made a sweet wee box for the Rx to help prevent it getting wet. Motor next. Cheers, Martin

Painted outside by CB90 Admiral   Posted: 5 days ago
Finish painting and adding some stickers, and a couple of pictures of the real thing. Fitted Motor in a water cooled jacket and motor mount. The motor is a 3650 and is rated as 3060kv Max Power: 1300W Max Voltage: 19V Max Amps: 68A Shaft Diameter: 3.2mm Shaft Length: 15mm Connector: 5.0mm Banana Connector Net Weight: 181g Servo fitted sideways via rubber bellows to external rudder fixed to transom.

Range Safety Launch? by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 10 days ago
Hi Neville, that far forward I would definitely look for some hull damage forward; crack in a seam or delamination? When you find it clean off all the paint around it, seal it with EzeKote and repaint. Inside fill either side of the keel in that bay with resin. Check also the skin joints around the chine. Re motors; I don't see any suppression capacitors 😲 and the motors (or the one I can see) are mounted very high giving a very steep shaft angle! Will tend to push the bow down at speed instead of planing🤔 Ciao, Doug 😎

BRAVE BORDERER by RHBaker Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 26 days ago
This hobby gives countless opportunities for changing ideas! After some thought, have decided to try another approach. Whilst brushless motors give fantastic performance; so far have had poor experience of system reliability. As more information and advice from other modelers is gathered, suspect have been using undersized ESCs, accounting for many of the problems. However, whilst still waiting for the new brushless motors an idea developed. To instal a brushed motor on the centre shaft, whilst retaining brushless on the outers. My thinking is this could provide several advantages such as; a better slow speed performance more suitable for manoeuvring, lower current draw, improved fuse life and a reliable BECC output. It will also operate at below the Li-Po cut-off voltage, giving a “get home” facility in the event the brushless ESCs cut-offs operate. However, there is a slight weight penalty as brushed motors and ESCs are heavier than brushless. Fitted a brushed motor of the same O/D and mounting arrangement as the previous brushless to minimize installation issues. With a reliable Mtroniks ESC from my stock and suitable fuses, fitted these items along with the ballast and battery used earlier. Now, back to the pool. The system worked well. The vessel speed is much less than with a brushless motor on the centre shaft, but control-ability greatly improved. With the triple rudders she steers nicely. The thought of using a brushed motor on the centre shaft, with a brushless motor on each of the outers is attractive. It is hoped the additional operation of the outers in conjunction with with the centre shaft, will provide the expected performance. The centre shaft would then also provide manoeuvring and reliability with the outers shut down. If this works, think this power-train combination could be ideal. Once the new brushless motors and ESCs arrive will instal and report. On the attached pictures, the first shows the ballasted model sitting with the brushed centre shaft motor, the second with a brushless. The difference in draft is imperceptible, the bow sits slightly high in both cases. The third shows the model with the brushed centre shaft operating only at “full” speed.

Hull Pt2: Motorisation - Come What May!! by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Hi again Mike, forgot to mention the false floor bit! Sorry, no pics - shipyard design secret! 😁 No, haven't got that far yet. Still have to make the gear end plates so I can get the shaft spacing / gear meshing right, i.e. height of the motor above the prop shaft. Plan is to fix an ally plate into the hull with captive 4mm domed nyloc nuts fixed in it. The Taycol has right angled brass mounting brackets for vertical fixing so I shall mount it using 4mm bolts with compression springs between the brackets and the ally plate. The nyloc nuts SHOULD hold things in position! That way I should be able to adjust the motor height and tilt in any direction (well, pitch and roll anyway!) to get the two shafts parallel in the vertical plane and optimum meshing of the gears and minimum vibration. That's the theory anyway 😉 Then I only have to worry about getting the shafts aligned in the horizontal plane, the 'Yaw'. Which should be relatively easy with careful fitting of the ally plate. Minor yaw adjustment could be accommodated by opening out the bracket holes to curved slots with a diamond file. Objective is max power transfer with minimum noise and friction. Not to mention easier mounting than fiddling about with shims! And I don't have to worry about not getting the angle of the ally plate in the hull dead right 😊 Accurate measurements inside this sloppily built hull are virtually impossible! There are no right angles or straight lines or even symmetry where you would normally expect them 😲 So no true reference points or datum lines. We'll see. Cheers, Doug 😎 Ooops! Somehow my response to the motor conversion 'secrets' slipped into the previous Update!? See below in 'A Messy Business'.

Hull Pt2: Motorisation - Come What May!! by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
As promised (or threatened?😁) stage two of the hull work and thoughts on motorisation. The hull was sprayed with two coats of grey primer/filler. Pic1. As usual this showed up the remaining imperfections (pics 2 & 3), but I'm not going to worry about them until I've got prop shaft tube and rudder stock sorted out and permanently fitted 😉 After my attempts to make and thread a 3mm prop shaft went awry Martin (Westway the Mechanicals Master👍) stepped in and made me a decent one complete with a bushed stuffing tube 👍 Vielen Dank Meister😊 I did however manage to make a 4mm to 3mm reducer so that I could fit a Rabeosch 35mm prop as seen in pics 2 & 3. The tube and shaft from Martin, arrived Saturday an' he only made it on Monday😊, have been dry fitted so that I can start setting up the gears, necessary to bring the drive down to the prop shaft fitted very low down in the hull, and motor mount. Pic 4. Motorisation: (Remember folks - this kit was designed and built as a static model!) I want to use the old 1950s Taycol Target motor which my Dad originally fitted in the Sea Scout which I have renovated and upgraded to brushless. See Build blog 'Sea Scout - Jessica' Many of you will know that the Taycol motors were field coil motors, meaning that they have no permanent magnet around the rotor coil, and thus reversing the battery connections to the brushes had no effect on the direction of rotation, as this simply reversed the magnetic fields of both stator and rotor coils🤔 To counteract this so that the motor could be used in both forward and reverse with a conventional brushed ESC I modified the motor slightly (separated the two coils) and built a simple converter board to connect it to the ESC. Again see the Sea Scout blog for the details of the conversion. Basically; once the field coil and brush-gear (rotor coil) have been separated a simple diode bridge can be used to apply the output of the ESC to the motor. This enables the reversal of EITHER field OR rotor coil polarity, depending on how you connect the converter to the motor. Thus reversing the direction of rotation of the motor. Beneficial side effect is that the diodes also suppress the commutator sparking😊 In my case, with the Taycol Target, I also cleaned, flattened and polished the commutator. Thus significantly reducing the potential for spark generation in the first place! A peculiarity of the Taycol motors is that they all use metal brushes, pressed phosphor bronze strip, so they need oiling! DO NOT oil conventional brushed motors with carbon brushes unless the brushes are exchangeable or you want to have to buy a new motor!!!!! Pics 5 & 6 show the proposed position of the Taycol in Gina 2 and pic 7 the prototype converter board I knocked up to test the motor, together with a Graupner Navy V30R Marine Brushed ESC. Details and results in the Sea Scout blog, including video of the sparks and oscilloscope pics of the drive waveforms before and after conversion! The latter showing the spark suppression effect of the converter😊 Some samples attached - last 3 pics. Pic 8 pic shows a more compact version of the converter, one of a few types I'm doing for Martin's various Taycols as a trade for the prop shaft he made for me and some useful material he sent. Thanks mate👍 Next steps will be 1) mounting the gears correctly on the shafts, requiring the manufacture of a 3/32" to 4mm adaptor and a 1/8" to 4mm adaptor, and keying them to the shafts - Hooray for mini milling machines 😉 2) manufacturing bushed end plates to hold the gears in place, 3) fitting the motor mounting platform. I'll probably borrow from my experiences of real shipbuilding and do this as a suspended 'false floor', i.e. mounted on stiff springs to enable adjustments to optimise the gearing mesh! On real naval ships this is done to improve shock resistance and to minimise engine noise / vibration conduction to the hull, thus significantly reducing the acoustic signature of the ship. Not that I'm tooo worried about being torpedoed 😁 Worth a try😉 Pic 9 shows the cleaned up and renovated Taycol Target motor. Pic 10 shows the drive waveform complete with sparks before modification.🤔 Pic 11 the cleaned 'forward' waveform with the converter board. Pic 12 the cleaned 'reverse' waveform, no suppression capacitors needed 😉 More soon folks, Cheers, Doug 😎 PS Along the way a new keel was fitted as can be seen in pics 1 to 3. The original builder had 'buried' the keel in the hull planking! 😲

Rudder Horns ect by deepdiver Commander   Posted: 1 month ago
Hi Well after some time thinking about making some new rudder horns (thinking = four beers) I have made them out of an old three pin plug I used the small fuse clip that the wire goes into, I have also used a mini servo and all seem's to work O.K, new motor mount made so that the motor's now line up, I also had to make a new rear deck and bulk head I will in time plank the rear deck, I have also started on making new rear deck housing. Fred

Seaplane Tender 360 by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi Bryan, If you want to do the SOE version she was most likely painted all matt black! The colour of skulduggery 😉 What ever you do, despite your good intentions to retain the 'old patina', judging by the photos you are in for a complete strip back and redo. Just as I have discovered with the PTB I bought. Thought it would just be a 'cosmetic job', flatten back and respray with Pacific green camouflage. Ho ho ho! Pics show what she currently looks like after cleaning off layers of enamel, and discovering that the prop shafts and rudders were misaligned and the chine strakes glued to the paint. 😡 Never mind an engine room fire when I tried to test the 'as bought' motor installation. 😭 Since those photos I have fitted new a new chine strake and started reinforcing the thin hull with glass fibre tissue. Next issue; set prop tubes properly and make an alu bracket to mount both the motors. Then set the rudder stocks correctly. Last thing I want is to dampen your enthusiasm, but that hull looks like it needs oodles of TLC. 🤔 Be aware of what's ahead of you and plan accordingly👍 Deck looks pretty neat, if unusual for a WW2 in service boat! As far as I can tell from the photos it's not just the cabin roof which is warped 😲 cabin and window frames will also need some attention by the looks of it. Before you run that motor I would strip it, clean all parts and check brushes and commutator for wear. See my Sea Scout blog 'Taycol Target motor' for a 'How to'. Should run well with a 3S LiPo, 11.1V. These boats weren't the fastest, 28 - 30 knots I believe. Which is why ST360 was reduced to more mundane duties after try outs by SOE. Don't forget some spark suppression!! Good luck, whatever you decide to do have fun doing it, Cheers Doug 😎

1940 Chris Craft by canabus Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi All Removed all the motor mounts and drive line. As I am using a 28mm brushless motor, I realigned the new 4mm drive line and decrease the drive angle. Made a stronger rudder with a little more depth. Remaking the engine hatch with two 10mm magnets to hold it down. Fill in a lot of the frame forward of the motor to add strength. Canabus

H.M.S. BRAVE BORDERER by RHBaker Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Decided to retry with the 2S battery and the original scale style propellers. Concluded that the speed is fine, especially in the windy conditions encountered and in a small pool that limited acceleration. The model had a very flat plane, must adjust the transom flap angle to see what effect that has. The forefoot did not rise much from the water surface. Was frustrated by the “stutter” referred to in the last blog, noticed this occurred on the two out shafts only and when the starboard was operated after the port was running. Swopped the starboard motor over with the centre one to see what effect it would have. As started to remove the motor noted that a connector was not tight and that the screw had corroded. Exchanged motors, removed all connectors then cleaned and refitted using a water resistant lubricant. The stutter seemed cured. Another lesson learnt, when dealing with these high currents every connection is tested and all defects exposed. The opportunity to retest using a 3S battery arose so installed it, all worked fine on the bank. Put the model in the water and a major short occurred. 2 fuses blew and about 6” of wiring melted and burnt through the insulation. At least there was no hull damage! Did an inquest and, apart from the damage described, also found the starboard ESC and motor had failed. These were the ones where the “stutter” originated, but cannot see any correlation between the two problems. Discussed the model with some of fellow scale modelers and concluded that the 4500kV motors are unsuitable for the scale propellers used. Every suggestion points toward motors in the 1 – 2000kV range. As now needed to obtain a new motor and ESC, decided to reequip both outer shafts with 2000kv motors and water cooled ESCs. Felt modifying these outer shafts would allow assessment of this new drivetrain combination, could then decide what approach to take with the centre shaft. Due to the mounting and driveshaft arrangement, the choice of motors was restricted to 28mm O/D with a 1/8” shaft size. Unfortunately, suitable items are on back-order from Hong Kong, so there will be no further updates for a while.

Fire Float info. by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
I have found that the No. 153 boat was possibly either a Brooke, of which one is for sale or a Maynard of Chiswick. I reckon the second as they made a 27 foot one which I reckon this is, interpolating the mens' height to the length of the boat. I will press on at that assumption and make a simple round bilge hull, as light as possible to use a small motor. The real one would have been a 75 HP ish engine, mounted just inside the raised foredeck. I'm sure there must be plans for the BPBCo. 37'- 6" Mk1 fire float somewhere. Cheers, Martin