Hi Chugalone Chris Brown used to do a very small motor ideal for radars working on about 1.5 to 3 Volts. You may be able to hide it in the base of the radar bottom piece. I looked on his site but couldn't see them, he usually has them at various shows. give him a phone call for details. http://www.christopher-wyn-brown.co.uk/ Hope this helps. regards Mike
Hi Dave, I did! Same result no matter which link i tried - Timeout'! 🤔😭 Ho Hum! I'm obviously not meant to know 😉 Never mind I have sources of micro motors over here. Have already bought several for the planned Plastic Magic projects. All the best, Doug 😎
Hi all, for my MS Hotspur radar (mounted on the gun director tower above the bridge) I used an old linear servo, God knows where it came from or who made it! I just disconnected the feedback pot and fed the motor with 1.5V, D-size alkaline cell, which drove it at about 2 RPM and lasted for years! 😊 I know, it should have a Yagi array sticking out the front! First the motion - then the detail 😉 Cheers Doug 😎 PS Crewman swabbing the deck has been shanghaied from Monty's 8th Army 😉
Hi chugalone100 It would appear you have already worked out that some sort of pulley may be an option. Angled small gears may also work but there may not be the space available and you would probably need to make your own. I did buy from http://www.gizmoszone.com/ some very small (6mm) planetary geared motors that run on 3volts and are certainly suitable for your purpose via a pulley system. Using 1.5 volts gave a very realistic speed. Using one of these motors should allow you to use two small pulleys on the mast, where I suspect space will be limited. I would make sure you will always have access to the pulleys and belts as they will almost certainly need servicing over time. Hope this helps and please post details of the setup. Dave
Hi Nick, we're working into this on a sort of Archimedian Spiral! But we'll get there 😉 You forgot to mention if you had the rudder servo plugged in and if it responded! If it did I assume it responded to the left stick as your ESC responded to the right stick! In that case .. Switch off the RX (boat power supply/ESC), switch off the TX. Always use this sequence to prevent ESC / motors going wild! 😡 Then ... plug the rudder servo into the channel that responds to the right stick - I assume Channel 1? Plug the ESC into Channel 2. Switch on the TX, switch on the RX (boat supply / ESC-BEC). Again, always use this switch-on sequence to prevent uncontrolled servo / motor movement! All SHOULD now work as required 😉👍 Cheers Doug 😎 @ Dave - Patience is a virtue 😉
Hi Nick Lets just do one simple task. Plug the esc and rudder servo into your Rx. Switch on the TX and ESC. You may want to disconnect the motor and protect the wires. If the rx light is on your rudder should respond to one of the sticks. You may have to plug it into different channels on the rx moving the esc if necessary. Please let me know if this works. Dave
Hi Nick You are using your Tamco and it is working? I suggest you try a spare servo in each channel and identify which Tx sticks work which channel on the Rx. The servo should follow the stick movement in both directions. If you do not have a separate Rx battery you can use your ESC, you dont need a motor connected but do tape up the wires to prevent a short. Once you have identified the throttle output channel you can plug your esc into this channel. Plug the test servo into the rudder channel and make sure it is working Your throttle (ESC) stick does need to be in the centre position. If you are using a horizontal stick then I add the following procedure or follow my original guide. When you say rudder stick do you mean the horizontal stick movement on the tx? If so it is this stick you need to move to set the ESC. Say full right when the solid green light is on then full left when the red light is on. Stick back to centre and both red green should be solid. With the Tx switched on the bind process is automatic once you press the small button after switch on and whilst the red/green leds are flashing. Once pressed the green led should be solid until you move the stick fully when the red led lights and you move the stick in the opposite direction and return to centre when the red green lights show solid. Dave
Original design "Express Cruiser" type boat. Old home-made fiberglass hull built in UK in the 1970s and rescued from previous owner's garage. Model built during April-July 2015. Approx. 1/24 scale. In trying to emulate a Bertram Bahia Mar boat, I ended up with an originally fictitious design. Real life boat could be a 32-footer (9.75m) yacht. 3mm 9v LED navigation lights system. Runs on Mtroniks G2 3A Hyper BEC 6-12V 15A Constant controller, Biao123 A2122 brushless motor, and a NiMH 10.8v battery.
Model kit made on or about 1969 by defunct German firm Robbe based upon Chris Craft Roamer motor yachts of the era. Hull appears to be inspired on 1950s Chris Craft Constellation series. Model tried to emulate a 46 feet version. I got this one half-built and adapted as a gift for my child inspired in the "My Little Pony" characters. Approx. 1/20 scale. Authentic Chris Craft Roamer 46 measured 46 x 15 feet. It runs with a 4-bladed 40mm metal propeller, 320A 7.2V-16V ESC 30A constant, a NiMH 9.6v battery, and a Mabuchi 540 Motor.
Hi Nick Your ESC needs setting to the TX/RX. It is very important that before you switch on the Tx all the sticks and trims are at neutral and set for normal as against reverse. Switch on the Tx plug the Esc with battery connected into the Rx ESC socket. Switch on the ESC, both leds flash red green. Whilst they are flashing push the small button on the ESC. The green light should illuminate, push the relevant TX stick fully up, the red led should illuminate, pull the stick fully down and then return it to neutral. Both red and green LEDs should be lit whilst the stick is in the neutral position. Pushing the stick up fully will light the green LED (forward) fully the other way the red LED will light (reverse). The motor will run if connected. Your ESC is now set up to work with this Tx/Rx combination and will retain the setting each time you switch on. Always centre your sticks before switching on to avoid the motor starting due to a non central position. Different Tx/Rx combinations may require you to repeat the procedure. The same procedure should work for all Mtronic ESCs with a button including your two. Dave