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>> Home > Tags > mtb

mtb
mtb
USGC Island class fg hull. by epmbcmember Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 7 days ago
I wish to build a USCG Island class cutter. I have a full set of plans but I am not too brilliant at making hulls from scratch. I have found a possible source, MTBHulls of Gibralta, of getting a fibre glass hull at 1/48 scale but they need an order of 4 to produce one. They produce many different hulls but not this one, hence the requirement for 4 to make it viable to make a new hull. So I am looking for 3 other model makers who may be interested in buying one of these hulls at approx. £55 each plus any cost for me to post them on or deliver. The Island class cutter is 110 feet long, which would make a model just over 2 foot long, and based on a Vosper Thornycroft design but built in the States. I believe there were about 80 built of which 35 remain in service. There are many pictures of them on the internet which is where I got the plans from but I am happy to copy the plans if anyone is interested.

1/24 crew figures by reilly4 Admiral   Posted: 7 days ago
Shapeways have the greatest range of ship and boat crew members but they are expensive. You can ask for whatever scale you like, just need to discuss with the designer. https://www.shapeways.com/marketplace/miniatures/figurines?t... I got my U-boat crew done in 1/45 and a few of the characters with slightly modified poses. For my WW2 MTB's I used Preiser German firemen figures and modified them. They are not available any more.

HMS Campbeltown 1941, 1/96 scale by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 8 days ago
As you wish Steve! If you want the exercise ..., I s'pose it's not as boring as jogging😁😁 What do I think about Semtex? ... BOOOM 😁😲 Seriously, (as if I could be 😁😁) - don't see any use for Semtex green on Campbeltown either. That's why I said I'd probably chuck it in with my USN MTB green to pad it out bit for my PTB. Several ships used it as part of the Western Approaches Pattern, like the Flower class corvette depicted on the box, but Campbeltown apparently not. Mix a little in with the Deck Grey perhaps? BTW, All this chat about Campbeltown inspired me to look for and buy a disc of the 1952 Trevor Howard, Richard Attenborough film 'The Gift Horse' based on the Buchanan / Campbeltown / Operation Chariot story. Disc arrived yesterday, just watched it (usual human waste on the haunted fish-tank🤔). Stirring stuff chaps! lots of visible detail of the Town Class destroyers, at least of HMS Leamington! G'night all, cheers, Doug 😎

Paints by reilly4 Admiral   Posted: 10 days ago
I use Satin enamels as they are more durable than Matt finishes, especially on the hulls, but still go over them with clear matt enamel for realism. The 'scale' appearance is the consideration. From a distance a real boat even if finished with a gloss marine enamel would not look glossy. A WW2 boat such as an MTB would definitely have a Matt finish, and always 2 coats. Working models get scuffed in use.

Kingsmere Model Boat Club by BOATSHED Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 10 days ago
It would be nice to see a list of both ponds and lakes across the country where all IC model boats are allowed to be run. I live just outside of Dartford and have about a 35 t0 40 mile run either side of where I live to be able to use my IC boats. I'm now retired and cannot afford to change all my boats to brushless motors. Sadly I'm not into slow running tugs and the like. I'm into MTB's and RAF Crash Tenders mainly or fast running speed boats.

Paints by Morkullen Petty Officer   Posted: 10 days ago
I am a bit stuck as to what type of paints to use on my Thornycroft MTB. Do I use gloss or matt? What type of paint is suggested Acrylic, emulsion, etc? Who can supply - say - 250ml of any recommended paint as I will probably need to apply at least two coats. I have already applied sanding sealer and undercoat and now need finishing paints. One for under hull and t'other for topsides. Any suggestions for a supplier would be greatly appreciated.

1/24 crew figures by epmbcmember Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 17 days ago
The figures I am looking for are for a Perkasa 1/24 scale MTB who usually wore white polo necked sweaters and duffle coats. they are very hard to find.

BRAVE BORDERER by jbkiwi Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 23 days ago
Good to hear you are making progress with the noise. My ESCs are not programmable as far as I know (There may be a card somewhere). They were cheap Chinese waterproof car/Buggy ESCs with Fwd and Rev which I wanted for independent drives but for the price and how well they work, you can't beat them (about NZ $20 each) They have a very soft start (you can count the revs) programmed in as std, and the only problem I have found is that they sometimes won't go straight into reverse without quickly nudging forward and back, (just need to drive in a scale manner and it's fine.) I'll put a pic of the unit and motor in (also a brushed one I am using in the MTB (x2) which work perfectly only NZ $9.00) They have braking, FWD, FWD+REV and batt type adjustable by jumpers. Throttle set-up is simple with full FWD and partial Rev set by the sticks. Both types are 30A and never even get warm. I purchased some fans for them but have never used them. The brushless units have a fan plug on them. The squealing I have may just require a switching frequency change on the ESC (8kHz/16kHz -more RF noise on 16kHz but more efficient) but I don't think I have that option (do you have that option to try on your set-up ? might be worth a crack). The sound units muffle it a bit anyhow. Boat runs at 10mph (GPS) flat out (looks way off scale) but only needs about 1/4 - 3/4 throttle for normal cruising. Will try to put up an external vid soon. Transmitter is easily modded to twin throttles,- excellent cheap set for boats ( later model has internal aerial)

BRAVE BORDERER by jbkiwi Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 26 days ago
I've used small brass shafts in brass bushed tubes with oilers in my MTB and they've lasted for 20yrs of average use, although they get a bit noisy when short of oil. Best would be brass shafts in brass tubes with Teflon/Nylon/ bronze etc bushes (a center bush as well if poss - have used these in ic power boats for years with hard steel shafts for the power). Brass is good as it's self lubricating to a degree and with a good quality oil can run quite smoothly and quietly, and is very simple, and when looked after won't corrode like steel or miniature ball or roller bearings (unless stainless).

BRAVE BORDERER by jbkiwi Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 26 days ago
If you are using 2 ESCs/BEC/UBECs with 2 plugged into 1 receiver you should remove the red wire from one of the plugs and tape it back to the lead, as both plugged in will possibly supply too much voltage for the receiver (you are getting double the voltage from 2 different sources) and this can cause the ESC to stutter . You should have no problems with Brushless out-runner motors as with the correct match with the ESC they should be as smooth as brushed. I have dual 2000kv 28/45 in-runners (with water jackets) and twin ESCs and 2 sound units using 1 receiver in my 64ft ASR model with no problems regarding proportional control (fwd or rev). I had a 28mm O/R in a Maiami ASR and it would crawl along (but the high noise was ear wrecking so have changed it back to brushed for now. I do have a similar slight high pitched squeal at certain speeds on one motor and this may be caused by the particular motor not 'syncing'properly with the ESC (Chinese cheap ESCs and HobbyKing /made in china motors) but short of changing that motor and ESC I am just putting up with it for now. The high pitched sync noise is fairly common and sometimes not fixable, (a number of my larger planes do it and its audible from 100m away (also amplified by a hull,-nice sound box). It can depend on the way a particular motor is wound (no 2 are identical) or even magnet placement/timing, as the may be hand wound by 2 very nice Chinese ladies at different ends of a bench ( just read some of the Hobby King motor reviews ) You could try changing the frequency on the ESC if it has that option as a higher motor Kv sometimes requires a higher frequency. Also make sure your ESC is set to the correct battery cell count. If it has an auto setting that should usually work best for general applications unless you are running fancy motors. Regarding interference, make sure you keep your aerial as far as poss from the motors and ESCs (even on 2.4 - I put mine right up in the bow) and there should be no problems. I have had 2 twin engined boats (my MTB & ASR) 1 brushed and 1 brushless running side by side 10" apart using the same radio for both (same type of Rec in each boat) with no problems at all. The bow down is probably prop shaft angle (the shallower the better) but if you are using counter rotating props you could try swapping props (inward rotation to outward) and motor rotation to see if it makes a difference. Also with 2800Kv motors you should be using small props (around 28-30mm diam 3 blade) as these motors are made to rev) as on a 2s battery they will be turning at around 20,000 dry and perhaps 18,000 wet (depending on prop) and if you load them too much they will cook with no cooling (assuming they are around 28mm dia ?) Only other thought - silicone couplings will squeal real loud if they slip.

MTB741 Fairmile D by jbkiwi Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 30 days ago
Fantastic detail, great job, looks the part.

HMS Cadiz by landie Seaman   Posted: 1 month ago
My dad built this over a long period of time, starting in the '80s. The hull is fibreglass and the rest is scratch built from plastic card, balsa, ply, wire and anything else he could adapt. Although he installed the motors, props and rudders he never completed the RC installation or tested it. I inherited his boat models a few years ago and wanted to "finish the job", getting the model on the water. After installing the RC gear and batteries over the last few months, this weekend was the first sailing outside the bath at the Valley Gardens boating lake. Happy to report that it sailed really nicely, seems to be reasonably stable although I did restrict it to calmer times when the MTBs and faster boats weren't running ! HMS Cadiz was a battle class destroyer, laid down and launched during WW2 although she didn't receive her commission until 1946 so didn't see combat with the Royal Navy, serving with the home fleet. Due to the changeover in pennant numbering she was originally allocated R09 and later, when the admiralty decided to revert to the D for Destroyer pennant numbering she was assigned D79. To reflect this my model has D79 on the starboard side and R09 on the port side. She was sold to Pakistan in the late '50s, and renamed PNS Khaibar. She was sunk with the loss of nearly all hands in 1971 in the Indo-Pakistan war.

MTB741 Fairmile D by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Awesome! Esp. for a Scratch build 👍👍👍 Really looks the part.

MTB741 Fairmile D by reilly4 Admiral   Posted: 2 months ago
Newer photos of my 1/24 Scale scratchbuilt Fairmile D at Albert Park Lake in Melbourne, Australia. The conditions were good for realistic photos.

Aerokits MTB, what is it?... by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
Hi Martin, My pleasure Mate, got plenty more where that came from if he needs more detail of other fittings. I've been trawling and collecting since I bought a 1/35 version from 'Basil'sDad' last September. Pics are 'As bought', 'Current state' 🤔, PT109 crew with Kennedy, standing on the right hand end. Good luck to your 'little lad' 😉 If you want to spoil him (or you if it turns out that way!) for choice look here- https://www.pinterest.de/pin/417145984205535643/ BTW: mine is twin engined, 2xBL. Reckon that's enough for 1/35 scale! Cheers, Doug 😎