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Basically ads is correct, but that's only half the story! The clue is to look for 'LiPo Safe' when buying ESCs. That tells you it has a programmable Cut Off voltage setting to prevent damage to your battery. Default is usually 3.2V per cell. Absolute minimum is 3.0V. Below that you risk irreversible damage to the battery due to chemical changes that can't be reversed. The alternative is to fit a battery monitor which can trigger an audio and/or visual alarm to warn you to 'make nearest port best speed' before your battery is deep discharged, from which it will not recover! Some ESCs have a programmable function which allows to preset a reduction of the max power to the motor (instead of a total shut down) to give you the chance to get home before disaster. PLEASE don't ask me which ones. Check the specs carefully before you buy. Many current TX/RX sets will tell you on the TX display when the battery volts are low. Cheers, Doug 😎
The TIO has a safety low battery voltage cut-off for LIPO batteries whereas the Viper 15 does not have this facility. If you are confident in not running down your LIPO battery to below a 'safe limit' then you should be OK to just use the ordinary Viper.
I'm hoping someone may be able to tell me why it is that on the Mtronics website, the only ESC suitable for a lipo battery is the 'TIO', yet two friends of mine are curently running lipo's with normal 25 and 40 amp Mtronics ESC's with no problems. My question therefor is....Can I or can I not run lipo's with these ESC's. I await any replies with interest. Thanks in advance
Hi there This is my first boat model build and my first post, so apologies... I have a passing familiarity with model aircraft radio control, and a fair amount of scale experience, but a couple of years ago took it into my head to convert a 1:400 scale Titanic model to r/c. I worked out the circuit with a lot of study, using an Mtronics W tail mixer, 3 Viper ESCs, three coreless motors and a Kyosho 2.4GHz receiver. The build went reasonably well, and when I connected it all up and tested it the motors ran and could be controlled with the Android phone app more or less as desired. However, I knew the power supply being connected to the receiver wasn't ideal so I disconnected it all, intending to connect the power through one of the ESCs. After leaving it for a couple of months I can't get it to work again in any configuration, or even get the ESCs to enter set-up mode again. Is there anyone in the North of England who can give me some hands-on advice? Have a look at the set-up? I have spent many fruitless hours trying to get it working again. I feel sure it's something simple I am overlooking. I am in West Yorkshire, near Halifax/Rochdale. At this rate I am thinking about just making it controlled with an on/off switch. I will put a photo in the photo gallery or here if I can. Thank you.
For Sale. Plank on frame wooden hull scratch built from original plans by Vic Smeed. 86cm L by 28cm B. She is very well made, though I can't claim for construction as I bought her part built. I re-painted, added the drive train and electrics as well as detailing the the deck house and upper deck. Twin brushed fanned 540 electric motors with Mtronics Viper Marine 20amp ESCs. 2.4ghz Tx with four channel receiver. Navigation lights and searchlight. (Need final wiring) I think she looks good on the water. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D6ELvkWcM-4&t=20s Collection only please. £210 ONO.
Ok, plans didn’t quite work out on hours on the boat over the last couple of weeks. I got the chine stringers fitted on 18 Jan, 30 mins soak and then about an hour’s work to get them properly in place pinned, on the inside lamination only, and glued. Deck supports fitted too. Spent the weekend helping my daughter move house so no boat action. On 22 January, Tom Foster, aka Boatshed, did me a massive favour by finding a copy of the Model Boat Magazine from June 2012, and scanning the pages with a review of the kit I’m building. You’re a legend Tom, thanks. I spent the next couple of days busy watching Bristol City, working and ordering the ESC, Mtronics Marine 25, some Eze Kote to seal the insides, once done, and ordering primer and paint having chosen my colour scheme. I did another 30 mins sorting out the cabin roof and rails on 24 January. Chamfered the rebates ready for fitting the hull bottom maybe an hour.
Hi Colin You have an Msonic micropro MAXFET Marine Eco unit. May or may not be the same specs as the 3 Marine ECO. The set up instructions are fairly standard and will be the same but I would be wary about using 12v as the early units, like yours, were often low voltage. If you give Mtronics a call on Monday they will be able to advise you of the specs.
Hi JJ. Just a word of warning, your Mtronics esc will not work with brushless motors, also 20amps is close to its limit with twin motors and fairly large props, performance wise, brushless is the way to go, but will need 2 esc's, wont run with one, if your dropping hints to the elves, spec your motors at about 700 watts and 600-700kva great torque with good revs at 7.2v even better at 12v Mark
Thanks again Will give that a try first and then perhaps see if Santa brings me some brushless motors 😁 Cheers J.J PS At the moment using a single ESC( 20A Mtronics) but would probably go for two if I move to brushless.
I have no idea of the size of your boat, but I have used the Mtronics sound board (choices of engine type) together with a pair of Dayton Exciters/transducers ( EX25VT 4 Ohms) which are 2” in diameter. My boat is a Tug only 21” long with 8” beam. Volume is fine and exciters easy to accommodate. All the best. NPJ
Hi Ian Looking at the pics it would appear to sit correctly and certainly planes well. If your ballast is forrard it will mean it has to be lifted to plane, at the cost of increased power. If you are still using the Mtronics 600 motor the prop is about right. The specs say 6-12v so running at 7.2 v will probably account for the heating problem. A higher voltage will allow the motor to run at its optimum design speed and cooler. The stall current is 48 amps! I am assuming you have a good a free running prop shaft and tube and the motor and coupling are aligned? Can you post a pic of your prop? Dave
I have an original Aerokits Solent powered by two Torpedo 800 brushed motors controlled by two Mtronics 25 amp brushed speed controllers. I normally use two 8.4 volt 5000 mah NiMh batteries, although I have also used two 11.i volt Lipo's. The shafts are fitted with 50mm three bladed brass propellers. The boat performs nicely on the water. My stanchions are home made from 3mm brass rod with holes drilled to take 2mm chain. The stanchions are 70mm in lenght above the deck with approx 10mm below the deck, the base of the stanchion has a suitable sized brass washer fitted where it passes into the hull, the top of the stanchion is filed to a ronded profile. Shaun
Hi Just had a quick Google as I was not sure of the size. There was the very same item on our For Sale section 5 years ago: "Deans Marine 1/24th Scale British Power Boat Co. Seaplane Tender Includes JP Power 400 Motor, Deans (MTronics) ESC, 5Cell NiMh Battery." That being the case any small brushless 28XX size with a Kv of around 1000 and 30 amp esc and 30 -35 mm 3 blade brass prop should suffice. I have similar in my 34" Fireboat and use an 11.1v Lipo. If you are new to LiPo you do need a dedicated LiPo charger and be aware that unlike other battery technology they pack a very heavy punch. You must follow the charging regime to the letter and make sure you do not overdischarge when running the model. There are some rather frightening U-tube videos of what happens if you ignore the rules! That said I have been using LiPos for several years now without any major problem, but I am always aware of the risks and make sure I don't take any unnecessary risks Good luck Dave